"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
.....
Interesting ... but hard to use in this application . I've been
out
in the shop making a new shaft for the hand crank . The shaft
runs
in the cast housing and is badly worn . The new shaft is a tad
larger in diameter , I have reamed the housing to clean up the
holes
and fit the shaft to it . I'll turn the crank end down to fit
the
crank and bore the gear out approx. .030" to get a very light
press
fit so the keyway won't wear too much . Which reminds me , I
need
to
order an 1/8" end mill , the only ones I have on hand are ball
end
.

--
Snag

I spent the morning fitting an oilite bushing and close-fitting
pivot
pin in the worn traction control handgrip of my newly acquired
1995
snowthrower.

Is there a preferred way to repair and perhaps improve a worn
control
shaft pivot in outdoor equipment? This thing had a few Nyliner
flanged
bushings which disintegrated but mostly mild steel shafts running
in
punched holes in sheet metal, with little hope of lubrication.
Since
the holes tend to wear oval they can't always be drilled larger
without moving. In this case the handgrip was small enough to
clamp
and bore in the mill and the snap clip on the pivot pin will
retain
the bushing if it loosens.

-jsw

Tack weld a (thick) washer with the proper size hole on both
sides
of the worn hole . For the flanged nycrap , I usually machine one
of
bronze/brass and glue it in with JB .
I was just out in the shop boring the new fan shaft bushing about
.030" too big on the lathe ... but that's OK , I changed my mind
about my choice of bushing material , decided to use the last bit
of
Ampco45 al/bronze instead of mild steel . Original was CI , and if
I
had a chunk that's what the new one would be too .
I'm trying to decide how I want to mill the key slot in the new
input shaft . I can use the mill to either slot it with a slitting
saw or mill with an EM . The other option is to chuck it in the
lathe with the quill locked and machine it with the Dremel using
that same end mill . Either end mill option will require cutting
one
direction only and withdrawing the cutter to return due to cutter
deflection . The saw option has the advantages of not only no side
deflection , but it's the most rigid . Drawback is fixturing it on
the mill .
--
Snag

Woodruff key cutters are nice for milling slots between clamps or
on
short projections from the edge of the vise. I make the key fit the
slot rather than vice versa since key stock easier to clamp and
mill,
or throw away and start over. I haven't had a problem with stepped
keys connecting different-width slots, transmitting up to 5HP.
http://www.use-enco.com/1/3/keo-woodruff-key-seat

-jsw

I ordered 10 1/8" end mills a couple of days ago . The easiest way
to do this is to get the vise back on the mill and use an end mill
from above . The slitting saw is a .125 , which is why I considered
it - but it's 3" in diameter which will have me slotting further
than I need . I also have to match the keyway in the gear .

--
Snag

Why do you think you have to match the two keyways?

http://eccarburetors.com/store/en/bi...ffset-key.html

-jsw