Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
.....
Interesting ... but hard to use in this application . I've been out
in the shop making a new shaft for the hand crank . The shaft runs
in the cast housing and is badly worn . The new shaft is a tad
larger in diameter , I have reamed the housing to clean up the holes
and fit the shaft to it . I'll turn the crank end down to fit the
crank and bore the gear out approx. .030" to get a very light press
fit so the keyway won't wear too much . Which reminds me , I need to
order an 1/8" end mill , the only ones I have on hand are ball end .

--
Snag

I spent the morning fitting an oilite bushing and close-fitting pivot
pin in the worn traction control handgrip of my newly acquired 1995
snowthrower.

Is there a preferred way to repair and perhaps improve a worn control
shaft pivot in outdoor equipment? This thing had a few Nyliner flanged
bushings which disintegrated but mostly mild steel shafts running in
punched holes in sheet metal, with little hope of lubrication. Since
the holes tend to wear oval they can't always be drilled larger
without moving. In this case the handgrip was small enough to clamp
and bore in the mill and the snap clip on the pivot pin will retain
the bushing if it loosens.

-jsw

Tack weld a (thick) washer with the proper size hole on both sides of the
worn hole . For the flanged nycrap , I usually machine one of bronze/brass
and glue it in with JB .
I was just out in the shop boring the new fan shaft bushing about .030"
too big on the lathe ... but that's OK , I changed my mind about my choice
of bushing material , decided to use the last bit of Ampco45 al/bronze
instead of mild steel . Original was CI , and if I had a chunk that's what
the new one would be too .
I'm trying to decide how I want to mill the key slot in the new input
shaft . I can use the mill to either slot it with a slitting saw or mill
with an EM . The other option is to chuck it in the lathe with the quill
locked and machine it with the Dremel using that same end mill . Either end
mill option will require cutting one direction only and withdrawing the
cutter to return due to cutter deflection . The saw option has the
advantages of not only no side deflection , but it's the most rigid .
Drawback is fixturing it on the mill .
--
Snag