Greetings

I have a "work space" - aka A Shed - a 10 x 12', "It will do."

Outside is primed a nice beige color, but the inside is not. There
being a lot of OSB, the recommendation is to paint/ seal it before the
rains resume. Which is usually mid September so it isn't an immediate
concern. Not this year anyway.
OTOH, I need to do this "soonest" so as to be able to move stuff
in before the wedding. Which is just one more little detail I have to
deal with.

So - how much paint / primer on the inside before I slap
insulation between the studs and panel over it all?
I have a sprayer, which I think will make it go faster (for some
values). While the old "M-80 in the paint can" technique might be
faster, I have two very nice (and expensive to replace) windows I
don't want to break. Not to mention the neighbors.

tschus
pyotr

ps I said "Don't mention the neighbors."
--
pyotr filipivich.
Discussing the decline in the US's tech edge, James Niccol once wrote
"It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged
boys could lose a finger or two playing with."

On Fri, 03 Jul 2015 23:13:59 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Greetings

I have a "work space" - aka A Shed - a 10 x 12', "It will do."

Outside is primed a nice beige color, but the inside is not. There
being a lot of OSB, the recommendation is to paint/ seal it before the
rains resume. Which is usually mid September so it isn't an immediate
concern. Not this year anyway.
OTOH, I need to do this "soonest" so as to be able to move stuff
in before the wedding. Which is just one more little detail I have to
deal with.

So - how much paint / primer on the inside before I slap
insulation between the studs and panel over it all?
I have a sprayer, which I think will make it go faster (for some
values). While the old "M-80 in the paint can" technique might be
faster, I have two very nice (and expensive to replace) windows I
don't want to break. Not to mention the neighbors.

tschus
pyotr

ps I said "Don't mention the neighbors."
--
pyotr filipivich.
Discussing the decline in the US's tech edge, James Niccol once wrote
"It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged
boys could lose a finger or two playing with."

Id pick up a gallon of Kilz and a second gallon of cheap floor paint.
Do the primer with Kilz..when dry..hit it with the floor paint. Use a
roller. Might..might take a second gallon of Kilz..depending on the
type of OSP used and its orientation.

Gunner

On Fri, 03 Jul 2015 23:13:59 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Greetings

I have a "work space" - aka A Shed - a 10 x 12', "It will do."

Outside is primed a nice beige color, but the inside is not. There
being a lot of OSB, the recommendation is to paint/ seal it before the
rains resume. Which is usually mid September so it isn't an immediate
concern. Not this year anyway.
OTOH, I need to do this "soonest" so as to be able to move stuff
in before the wedding. Which is just one more little detail I have to
deal with.

So - how much paint / primer on the inside before I slap
insulation between the studs and panel over it all?

I prefer to coat all sides of panels, but it's not always recommended.


I have a sprayer, which I think will make it go faster (for some

If you use the airless, one coat of acrylic primer/paint will do just
fine. Be careful in the crevices with all those studs. It builds up
and runs quickly if not. Keep the hose free at all times, and
remember to let off the trigger instantly if it catches. I almost had
a run once while trying to free the hose.

I bought one of HF's $300 ($175 on sale) German imports, a Krause &
Becker. I love that little mutha! Painting my house is on my list of
To-Dos for this summer and I already have the paint. I've decided to
hire out the prep work, then mask and spray myself. The last house I
did took several days to mask and half a day to spray house and large
garage. Just amazing how quickly 15g of paint goes on with the little
beastie.

HD had a $79 adapter to put a power roller on it, so I'll use that for
the interior.


values). While the old "M-80 in the paint can" technique might be
faster, I have two very nice (and expensive to replace) windows I
don't want to break. Not to mention the neighbors.

Yabbut, that's so much more FUN! Oh, well.


"It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged
boys could lose a finger or two playing with."

Remember =real= Roman Candles? I miss those more than ever on the
4th. We USAF brats used to gather around Lake , LRAFB and shoot them
toward the center, dozens of candles at a time in all colors of the
rainbow. It was truly beautiful, with the sprays from the ground and
the sparkling cannonballs in the air.

Happy Independence Day, guys!

--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

On Sat, 04 Jul 2015 02:27:12 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Fri, 03 Jul 2015 23:13:59 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Greetings

I have a "work space" - aka A Shed - a 10 x 12', "It will do."

Outside is primed a nice beige color, but the inside is not. There
being a lot of OSB, the recommendation is to paint/ seal it before the
rains resume. Which is usually mid September so it isn't an immediate
concern. Not this year anyway.
OTOH, I need to do this "soonest" so as to be able to move stuff
in before the wedding. Which is just one more little detail I have to
deal with.

So - how much paint / primer on the inside before I slap
insulation between the studs and panel over it all?
I have a sprayer, which I think will make it go faster (for some
values). While the old "M-80 in the paint can" technique might be
faster, I have two very nice (and expensive to replace) windows I
don't want to break. Not to mention the neighbors.

tschus
pyotr

ps I said "Don't mention the neighbors."
--
pyotr filipivich.
Discussing the decline in the US's tech edge, James Niccol once wrote
"It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged
boys could lose a finger or two playing with."

Id pick up a gallon of Kilz and a second gallon of cheap floor paint.
Do the primer with Kilz..when dry..hit it with the floor paint. Use a
roller. Might..might take a second gallon of Kilz..depending on the
type of OSP used and its orientation.

4 gallons of primer/paint combo will do it in one coat. OSB sucks it
up quickly. I used 3 gallons on a 10x10 with inner wall last year.

Pete, you will have small dropouts from the glue areas, but don't
worry, as those are sealed already. It just repels paint.

--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

pyotr filipivich wrote:
Greetings

I have a "work space" - aka A Shed - a 10 x 12', "It will do."

Outside is primed a nice beige color, but the inside is not. There
being a lot of OSB, the recommendation is to paint/ seal it before the
rains resume. Which is usually mid September so it isn't an immediate
concern. Not this year anyway.
OTOH, I need to do this "soonest" so as to be able to move stuff
in before the wedding. Which is just one more little detail I have to
deal with.

So - how much paint / primer on the inside before I slap
insulation between the studs and panel over it all?
I have a sprayer, which I think will make it go faster (for some
values). While the old "M-80 in the paint can" technique might be
faster, I have two very nice (and expensive to replace) windows I
don't want to break. Not to mention the neighbors.

tschus
pyotr

ps I said "Don't mention the neighbors."

I wouldn't worry about the inside , it's not going to rain there ... that
said , I have a shed in Memphis that I built over 20 years ago , and it's
never seen paint . Seems to be holding up pretty well , though it's flaking
a bit in spots .

--
Snag

On 7/4/2015 2:13 AM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
...
Outside is primed a nice beige color, but the inside is not. There
being a lot of OSB, the recommendation is to paint/ seal it before the
rains resume. ...

I've never heard of the inside being painted for rain protection. Is
there something about your weather that requires that? Or is there
something about the shed construction that allows rain in?

If you're worried about protecting the inside surface from rain, I would
also be worried about the (fiberglass, I assume) insulation getting wet.

Also, .... no, wait - I just don't get this painting the inside. Please
explain.

Bob

On 7/4/2015 8:59 AM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 7/4/2015 2:13 AM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
...
Outside is primed a nice beige color, but the inside is not. There
being a lot of OSB, the recommendation is to paint/ seal it before the
rains resume. ...

I've never heard of the inside being painted for rain protection. Is
there something about your weather that requires that? Or is there
something about the shed construction that allows rain in?

If you're worried about protecting the inside surface from rain, I would
also be worried about the (fiberglass, I assume) insulation getting wet.

Also, .... no, wait - I just don't get this painting the inside. Please
explain.

Bob

The concern is that paint adhesion on the outside can be adversely
affected by moisture migrating through from the inside. This is a
definite problem with masonry, solid wood and plywood. I'm not sure
about OSB as it may contain enough glue to block moisture. Better to
seal it while the opportunity is available than to be frequently
scraping/repainting the outside.

On Sat, 04 Jul 2015 10:16:33 -0400, Larry Kraus
wrote:

On 7/4/2015 8:59 AM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 7/4/2015 2:13 AM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
...
Outside is primed a nice beige color, but the inside is not. There
being a lot of OSB, the recommendation is to paint/ seal it before the
rains resume. ...

I've never heard of the inside being painted for rain protection. Is
there something about your weather that requires that? Or is there
something about the shed construction that allows rain in?

If you're worried about protecting the inside surface from rain, I would
also be worried about the (fiberglass, I assume) insulation getting wet.

Also, .... no, wait - I just don't get this painting the inside. Please
explain.

Bob

The concern is that paint adhesion on the outside can be adversely
affected by moisture migrating through from the inside. This is a
definite problem with masonry, solid wood and plywood. I'm not sure
about OSB as it may contain enough glue to block moisture. Better to
seal it while the opportunity is available than to be frequently
scraping/repainting the outside.

Standard "exterior" grade OSB will not likely transfer any moisture.
the layup glue prevents this.

Gunner

Larry Jaques on Sat, 04 Jul 2015
04:40:31 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged
boys could lose a finger or two playing with."

Remember =real= Roman Candles? I miss those more than ever on the
4th. We USAF brats used to gather around Lake , LRAFB and shoot them
toward the center, dozens of candles at a time in all colors of the
rainbow. It was truly beautiful, with the sprays from the ground and
the sparkling cannonballs in the air.

Per my father, Sandy Oregon (the small town which is "my home
town") used to sell the most roman candles in the state of Oregon.
Seems that regularly, the various business owners would meet for a cup
of coffee and a roman candle, the stand on opposite sides of the main
drag and fire them at one another.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

"Terry Coombs" on Sat, 4 Jul 2015 06:53:48 -0500
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
pyotr filipivich wrote:
Greetings

I have a "work space" - aka A Shed - a 10 x 12', "It will do."

Outside is primed a nice beige color, but the inside is not. There
being a lot of OSB, the recommendation is to paint/ seal it before the
rains resume. Which is usually mid September so it isn't an immediate
concern. Not this year anyway.
OTOH, I need to do this "soonest" so as to be able to move stuff
in before the wedding. Which is just one more little detail I have to
deal with.

So - how much paint / primer on the inside before I slap
insulation between the studs and panel over it all?
I have a sprayer, which I think will make it go faster (for some
values). While the old "M-80 in the paint can" technique might be
faster, I have two very nice (and expensive to replace) windows I
don't want to break. Not to mention the neighbors.

tschus
pyotr

ps I said "Don't mention the neighbors."

I wouldn't worry about the inside , it's not going to rain there ...

I'm more worried about condensation on the inside - and having the
OSB fail before I do.

that said , I have a shed in Memphis that I built over 20 years ago , and it's
never seen paint . Seems to be holding up pretty well , though it's flaking
a bit in spots .
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

Larry Kraus on Sat, 04 Jul 2015 10:16:33 -0400 typed
in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On 7/4/2015 8:59 AM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 7/4/2015 2:13 AM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
...
Outside is primed a nice beige color, but the inside is not. There
being a lot of OSB, the recommendation is to paint/ seal it before the
rains resume. ...

I've never heard of the inside being painted for rain protection. Is
there something about your weather that requires that? Or is there
something about the shed construction that allows rain in?

If you're worried about protecting the inside surface from rain, I would
also be worried about the (fiberglass, I assume) insulation getting wet.

Also, .... no, wait - I just don't get this painting the inside. Please
explain.

Bob

The concern is that paint adhesion on the outside can be adversely
affected by moisture migrating through from the inside. This is a
definite problem with masonry, solid wood and plywood. I'm not sure
about OSB as it may contain enough glue to block moisture. Better to
seal it while the opportunity is available than to be frequently
scraping/repainting the outside.

Yeah, what he said.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

Bob Engelhardt on Sat, 04 Jul 2015
08:59:25 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On 7/4/2015 2:13 AM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
...
Outside is primed a nice beige color, but the inside is not. There
being a lot of OSB, the recommendation is to paint/ seal it before the
rains resume. ...

I've never heard of the inside being painted for rain protection. Is
there something about your weather that requires that? Or is there
something about the shed construction that allows rain in?

If you're worried about protecting the inside surface from rain, I would
also be worried about the (fiberglass, I assume) insulation getting wet.

Also, .... no, wait - I just don't get this painting the inside. Please
explain.

I need to paint the exterior before the rains return. September
seems to be the most likely season for that.

I want to seal the inside up to deal with condensation issues. I
may also be over thinking the issue.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

Gunner Asch on Sat, 04 Jul 2015 08:23:32 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

The concern is that paint adhesion on the outside can be adversely
affected by moisture migrating through from the inside. This is a
definite problem with masonry, solid wood and plywood. I'm not sure
about OSB as it may contain enough glue to block moisture. Better to
seal it while the opportunity is available than to be frequently
scraping/repainting the outside.

Standard "exterior" grade OSB will not likely transfer any moisture.

"will not likely" - "remote possibility".

There is a one in a million chance, you know what that means?
Yes, it happens 9 out of 10 times.



--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

On 7/4/2015 2:38 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
Larry Kraus on Sat, 04 Jul 2015 10:16:33
The concern is that paint adhesion on the outside can be adversely
affected by moisture migrating through from the inside. ...

Yeah, what he said.

In that case, a vapor=blocking paint would be a good idea:
http://tinyurl.com/opycxy2 for example

On 7/4/2015 2:38 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
...
I want to seal the inside up to deal with condensation issues. I
may also be over thinking the issue.

Condensation is a problem when the inside temperature and dew point are
greater than the outside temperature. In that situation there is a
gradient of temperature through the wall. When the vapor in the inside
air migrates through the wall it reaches a point where the temperature
is equal to its dew point and it condenses. This point will most likely
be within the fiberglass, not the inside of the sheathing.

When the outside warms, the condensed vapor will re-evaporate and
continue its migration. At some point this vapor will reach the OSB and
travel through it. Unless the OSB is sealed. So the sealing is
protection against vapor, not condensation.

Bob

On Sat, 04 Jul 2015 11:38:29 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Gunner Asch on Sat, 04 Jul 2015 08:23:32 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

The concern is that paint adhesion on the outside can be adversely
affected by moisture migrating through from the inside. This is a
definite problem with masonry, solid wood and plywood. I'm not sure
about OSB as it may contain enough glue to block moisture. Better to
seal it while the opportunity is available than to be frequently
scraping/repainting the outside.

Standard "exterior" grade OSB will not likely transfer any moisture.

"will not likely" - "remote possibility".

There is a one in a million chance, you know what that means?
Yes, it happens 9 out of 10 times.

Actually...exterior grade OSB is pretty much waterproof. That being
said..Id not use it on boat hull without a layer of fiberglass..but
for normal humidity in the PNW..Id not consider it to be a sponge.





--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

On Sat, 04 Jul 2015 17:40:00 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

On 7/4/2015 2:38 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
Larry Kraus on Sat, 04 Jul 2015 10:16:33
The concern is that paint adhesion on the outside can be adversely
affected by moisture migrating through from the inside. ...

Yeah, what he said.

In that case, a vapor=blocking paint would be a good idea:
http://tinyurl.com/opycxy2 for example

Which btw..both Kilz and BIN do quite well..which is why I suggested
them in my first response.

Some conversations on wall sealing in the PNW:

http://www.contractortalk.com/f18/wa...uestion-33616/

http://www.democraticunderground.com...=1158&pid=2514

B-I-N has a "perm" rating of 0.4 perms. which means it is an
exceptional vapor barrier. ("Perm" is a unit measuring the
permeability of a film to moisture.) Sealing walls and ceiling with
B-I-N keeps moisture vapour in the house, making it more comfortable
in winter. It also keeps moisture from condensing on insulation in
attics and between walls and from passing through walls to cause
blistering and peeling of exterior paint.

On Sat, 04 Jul 2015 11:38:29 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Sat, 04 Jul 2015
04:40:31 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged
boys could lose a finger or two playing with."

Remember =real= Roman Candles? I miss those more than ever on the
4th. We USAF brats used to gather around Lake , LRAFB and shoot them
toward the center, dozens of candles at a time in all colors of the
rainbow. It was truly beautiful, with the sprays from the ground and
the sparkling cannonballs in the air.

Per my father, Sandy Oregon (the small town which is "my home
town") used to sell the most roman candles in the state of Oregon.
Seems that regularly, the various business owners would meet for a cup
of coffee and a roman candle, the stand on opposite sides of the main
drag and fire them at one another.

Har! I'd love to have seen that.

--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

Gunner Asch on Sat, 04 Jul 2015 16:04:59 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sat, 04 Jul 2015 11:38:29 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Gunner Asch on Sat, 04 Jul 2015 08:23:32 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

The concern is that paint adhesion on the outside can be adversely
affected by moisture migrating through from the inside. This is a
definite problem with masonry, solid wood and plywood. I'm not sure
about OSB as it may contain enough glue to block moisture. Better to
seal it while the opportunity is available than to be frequently
scraping/repainting the outside.

Standard "exterior" grade OSB will not likely transfer any moisture.

"will not likely" - "remote possibility".

There is a one in a million chance, you know what that means?
Yes, it happens 9 out of 10 times.

Actually...exterior grade OSB is pretty much waterproof. That being
said..Id not use it on boat hull without a layer of fiberglass..but
for normal humidity in the PNW..Id not consider it to be a sponge.

Tain't the humidity, its the rain. (once it resumes)






--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

Larry Jaques on Sun, 05 Jul 2015
07:13:10 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sat, 04 Jul 2015 11:38:29 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Sat, 04 Jul 2015
04:40:31 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged
boys could lose a finger or two playing with."

Remember =real= Roman Candles? I miss those more than ever on the
4th. We USAF brats used to gather around Lake , LRAFB and shoot them
toward the center, dozens of candles at a time in all colors of the
rainbow. It was truly beautiful, with the sprays from the ground and
the sparkling cannonballs in the air.

Per my father, Sandy Oregon (the small town which is "my home
town") used to sell the most roman candles in the state of Oregon.
Seems that regularly, the various business owners would meet for a cup
of coffee and a roman candle, the stand on opposite sides of the main
drag and fire them at one another.

Har! I'd love to have seen that.

Me too. Apparently, back in the day, we all died regularly from
our every day activities, burning down he town ever day at 10.

It is a wonder any of us lived to go to high school. Well, no, we
all suffer for a long time after we died instantly.

Why when I was a boy, it was nothing to blow our hands off every
morning, and it still didn't keep us from our class work!
--
pyotr filipivich
Old farts these days - not like when I was a boy! We used to
have us Real Geezers in those days! Now, they'll let anybody
with a little gray hair be an old fart!

On Sun, 05 Jul 2015 09:51:00 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Gunner Asch on Sat, 04 Jul 2015 16:04:59 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sat, 04 Jul 2015 11:38:29 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Gunner Asch on Sat, 04 Jul 2015 08:23:32 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

The concern is that paint adhesion on the outside can be adversely
affected by moisture migrating through from the inside. This is a
definite problem with masonry, solid wood and plywood. I'm not sure
about OSB as it may contain enough glue to block moisture. Better to
seal it while the opportunity is available than to be frequently
scraping/repainting the outside.

Standard "exterior" grade OSB will not likely transfer any moisture.

"will not likely" - "remote possibility".

There is a one in a million chance, you know what that means?
Yes, it happens 9 out of 10 times.

Actually...exterior grade OSB is pretty much waterproof. That being
said..Id not use it on boat hull without a layer of fiberglass..but
for normal humidity in the PNW..Id not consider it to be a sponge.

Tain't the humidity, its the rain. (once it resumes)

OSB is classified as "vapor semi-permeable" (1 - 10 perm). That's the
same as plywood up to a humidity or around 70%. In very humid
environments, OSB is less permeable than plywood.

The deckhouse of my uncle's 42' all-wood boat was made of "Aspenite,"
which was a predecessor of OSB. It rotted out in five years, and was
replaced with plywood. The ply was still solid 15 years later, when he
sold the boat.

Somebody did a big thesis or white paper on the subject, and it's
considered to be the last word:

http://www.buildingscienceconsulting...k%20Thesis.pdf


--
Ed Huntress

On Sat, 04 Jul 2015 16:04:59 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 04 Jul 2015 11:38:29 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Gunner Asch on Sat, 04 Jul 2015 08:23:32 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

The concern is that paint adhesion on the outside can be adversely
affected by moisture migrating through from the inside. This is a
definite problem with masonry, solid wood and plywood. I'm not sure
about OSB as it may contain enough glue to block moisture. Better to
seal it while the opportunity is available than to be frequently
scraping/repainting the outside.

Standard "exterior" grade OSB will not likely transfer any moisture.

"will not likely" - "remote possibility".

There is a one in a million chance, you know what that means?
Yes, it happens 9 out of 10 times.

Actually...exterior grade OSB is pretty much waterproof. That being
said..Id not use it on boat hull without a layer of fiberglass..but
for normal humidity in the PNW..Id not consider it to be a sponge.

Yeah, it's much more waterproof than plywood, especially on cut edges.
What I see so much is that people will cut panels and/or siding and
never seal the cut edge. Even cement siding needs to be sealed or it
will soak up water and decompose.

Since I couldn't find brown preservative/sealer for pressure treated
wood, I had to go to regular deck stain to seal all my cut ends. I
found out that it was illegal to make my own preservative paint, too.
Once the makers of Termin-8 stopped making it, there was no other
legal method of preserving the poorly PT wood any more. ****ing
EcoNazis, I swear.

--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Since I couldn't find brown preservative/sealer for pressure treated
wood, I had to go to regular deck stain to seal all my cut ends. I
found out that it was illegal to make my own preservative paint, too.
Once the makers of Termin-8 stopped making it, there was no other
legal method of preserving the poorly PT wood any more. ****ing
EcoNazis, I swear.


Larry! There's a _certain_degree_ of "civil disobediance" allowed when
doing your own work! Even if it's inspected, I'm betting that no local
building inspector would ever ask to see the actual empty can from which
edge-sealer came.

Lloyd

On Sun, 05 Jul 2015 09:51:00 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Sun, 05 Jul 2015
07:13:10 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sat, 04 Jul 2015 11:38:29 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Sat, 04 Jul 2015
04:40:31 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged
boys could lose a finger or two playing with."

Remember =real= Roman Candles? I miss those more than ever on the
4th. We USAF brats used to gather around Lake , LRAFB and shoot them
toward the center, dozens of candles at a time in all colors of the
rainbow. It was truly beautiful, with the sprays from the ground and
the sparkling cannonballs in the air.

Per my father, Sandy Oregon (the small town which is "my home
town") used to sell the most roman candles in the state of Oregon.
Seems that regularly, the various business owners would meet for a cup
of coffee and a roman candle, the stand on opposite sides of the main
drag and fire them at one another.

Har! I'd love to have seen that.

Me too. Apparently, back in the day, we all died regularly from
our every day activities, burning down he town ever day at 10.

It is a wonder any of us lived to go to high school. Well, no, we
all suffer for a long time after we died instantly.

Why when I was a boy, it was nothing to blow our hands off every
morning, and it still didn't keep us from our class work!

And I don't have a single mark, scar, or missing appendage from all
the crazy **** I used to pull as a kid. Live it, flaunt it!

My new t-shirt is fun to wear. It says:

Just because I
give you advice, it
doesn't mean I
know more than
you, it just means
I've done more
stupid ****.



--
pyotr filipivich
Old farts these days - not like when I was a boy! We used to
have us Real Geezers in those days! Now, they'll let anybody
with a little gray hair be an old fart!

Eh, sonny?

--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

On Sun, 05 Jul 2015 15:02:16 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Since I couldn't find brown preservative/sealer for pressure treated
wood, I had to go to regular deck stain to seal all my cut ends. I
found out that it was illegal to make my own preservative paint, too.
Once the makers of Termin-8 stopped making it, there was no other
legal method of preserving the poorly PT wood any more. ****ing
EcoNazis, I swear.


Larry! There's a _certain_degree_ of "civil disobediance" allowed when
doing your own work! Even if it's inspected, I'm betting that no local
building inspector would ever ask to see the actual empty can from which
edge-sealer came.

Hmm, you mean it would be worth the $50k (if I got caught) just to
seal the edge so the customer's fence or deck lasts a bit longer?
Riiiiiiight.

Hell, I was fined $500 a few years ago just for having the words
"minor landscaping" on my website. Why take chances when the deck
stain works nearly as well?

The color in Behr (Homey's Despot) solid color stain is SC-110
Chestnut, BTW. It matches the local PT wood quite well.

--
We are always the same age inside.
-- Gertrude Stein

Larry Jaques on Sun, 05 Jul 2015
17:41:38 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sun, 05 Jul 2015 15:02:16 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
m:

Since I couldn't find brown preservative/sealer for pressure treated
wood, I had to go to regular deck stain to seal all my cut ends. I
found out that it was illegal to make my own preservative paint, too.
Once the makers of Termin-8 stopped making it, there was no other
legal method of preserving the poorly PT wood any more. ****ing
EcoNazis, I swear.


Larry! There's a _certain_degree_ of "civil disobediance" allowed when
doing your own work! Even if it's inspected, I'm betting that no local
building inspector would ever ask to see the actual empty can from which
edge-sealer came.

Hmm, you mean it would be worth the $50k (if I got caught) just to
seal the edge so the customer's fence or deck lasts a bit longer?
Riiiiiiight.

Hell, I was fined $500 a few years ago just for having the words
"minor landscaping" on my website.

So change it to "Adult Landscaping".... (sf/x: rimshot)

I've a friend who does civil engineering. "No, you cannot have a
deck there. But we can install a 'wildlife observation platform'
there."

Why take chances when the deck stain works nearly as well?

The color in Behr (Homey's Despot) solid color stain is SC-110
Chestnut, BTW. It matches the local PT wood quite well.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

On Sun, 05 Jul 2015 21:24:36 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Sun, 05 Jul 2015
17:41:38 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sun, 05 Jul 2015 15:02:16 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Since I couldn't find brown preservative/sealer for pressure treated
wood, I had to go to regular deck stain to seal all my cut ends. I
found out that it was illegal to make my own preservative paint, too.
Once the makers of Termin-8 stopped making it, there was no other
legal method of preserving the poorly PT wood any more. ****ing
EcoNazis, I swear.


Larry! There's a _certain_degree_ of "civil disobediance" allowed when
doing your own work! Even if it's inspected, I'm betting that no local
building inspector would ever ask to see the actual empty can from which
edge-sealer came.

Hmm, you mean it would be worth the $50k (if I got caught) just to
seal the edge so the customer's fence or deck lasts a bit longer?
Riiiiiiight.

Hell, I was fined $500 a few years ago just for having the words
"minor landscaping" on my website.

So change it to "Adult Landscaping".... (sf/x: rimshot)

groan "landscaping" was the key word. I have a general
contractor's license, and they said I was "advertising without a
license" since I didn't have a Landscaping Contractor's license.
First offense, dropped to $125, and I made sure to pay it off
immediately, at $25/month. FEITCTAJ. (if they can't take a joke)

I guess now it'd be "Senior Landscaping" now that I'm on SS.


I've a friend who does civil engineering. "No, you cannot have a
deck there. But we can install a 'wildlife observation platform'
there."

So, for only $1k in engineering fees, one can put their deck there
anyway? Such a treat!

I was told that I couldn't cut a 1' diameter hole in a lawn and plant
a tree; that's landscaping. But I can replant one in an existing hole
or redo existing flower beds. I can even spread bark! I make sure to
tell people what ass^H^H^Hwonderful humans these guys are at every
chance.

--
We are always the same age inside.
-- Gertrude Stein

Larry Jaques on Mon, 06 Jul 2015
04:30:20 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
I've a friend who does civil engineering. "No, you cannot have a
deck there. But we can install a 'wildlife observation platform'
there."

So, for only $1k in engineering fees, one can put their deck there
anyway? Such a treat!

But it is now Offical, Approved by The County - and not "a deck".

I was told that I couldn't cut a 1' diameter hole in a lawn and plant
a tree; that's landscaping. But I can replant one in an existing hole
or redo existing flower beds. I can even spread bark!

Ah, remidns me of his story of how, No, you can't tear down
grandpas lakeside cabin and rebuild. How ever, we can do a remodel,
which will, o course, require some foundation "repairs", and of course
bringing the rest up to code, in the course of fixing it...

--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

On 7/6/2015 8:18 AM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
....
Ah, remidns me of his story of how, No, you can't tear down
grandpas lakeside cabin and rebuild. How ever, we can do a remodel,
which will, o course, require some foundation "repairs", and of course
bringing the rest up to code, in the course of fixing it...

There's a pond near here that was built out decades ago, before any
regs, and all the cabins/cottages are RIGHT ON the water. Bow there is
a 50' setback.

So when they wanted to replace one with a real house, they "remodeled"
so as to be grandfathered. The result was their leaving one 1-story
wall and building a new 2-story house around it. It was a "Are you
****tin' me?" sight.

Bob

On Mon, 06 Jul 2015 05:18:27 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Mon, 06 Jul 2015
04:30:20 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
I've a friend who does civil engineering. "No, you cannot have a
deck there. But we can install a 'wildlife observation platform'
there."

So, for only $1k in engineering fees, one can put their deck there
anyway? Such a treat!

But it is now Offical, Approved by The County - and not "a deck".

I was told that I couldn't cut a 1' diameter hole in a lawn and plant
a tree; that's landscaping. But I can replant one in an existing hole
or redo existing flower beds. I can even spread bark!

Ah, remidns me of his story of how, No, you can't tear down
grandpas lakeside cabin and rebuild. How ever, we can do a remodel,
which will, o course, require some foundation "repairs", and of course
bringing the rest up to code, in the course of fixing it...

--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

Like the chap down the street bought a tiny corner lot with an
existing concrete block structure built on the side property line
(years before the street was constructed) decided he needed to do
foundation repairs to all four corners then the areas in between. took
the walls down block by block and re-built with the same blocks only
less professional looking. The structure is now occupied but is still
an eyesore!
---

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada

Bob Engelhardt on Mon, 06 Jul 2015
10:29:44 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On 7/6/2015 8:18 AM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
...
Ah, remidns me of his story of how, No, you can't tear down
grandpas lakeside cabin and rebuild. How ever, we can do a remodel,
which will, o course, require some foundation "repairs", and of course
bringing the rest up to code, in the course of fixing it...

There's a pond near here that was built out decades ago, before any
regs, and all the cabins/cottages are RIGHT ON the water. Bow there is
a 50' setback.

So when they wanted to replace one with a real house, they "remodeled"
so as to be grandfathered. The result was their leaving one 1-story
wall and building a new 2-story house around it. It was a "Are you
****tin' me?" sight.

Very believable. St Andrew House on the Hood Canal has a house
out over the canal - again, "Grand fathered in".
And the Manse where I was a baby, in 1973 had the garage rebuilt -
and they too had to leave one wall up lest it be subject to the newer
setback rules (If it wasn't on the property line, it was very very
close.).

Bob
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

pyotr filipivich wrote:

Greetings

I have a "work space" - aka A Shed - a 10 x 12', "It will do."

Outside is primed a nice beige color, but the inside is not. There
being a lot of OSB, the recommendation is to paint/ seal it before the
rains resume. Which is usually mid September so it isn't an immediate
concern. Not this year anyway.
OTOH, I need to do this "soonest" so as to be able to move stuff
in before the wedding. Which is just one more little detail I have to
deal with.

So - how much paint / primer on the inside before I slap
insulation between the studs and panel over it all?
I have a sprayer, which I think will make it go faster (for some
values). While the old "M-80 in the paint can" technique might be
faster, I have two very nice (and expensive to replace) windows I
don't want to break. Not to mention the neighbors.


You should never stick an M80 in your neighbors, no matter how bad
they are. ;-)

"Michael A. Terrell" on Mon, 27 Jul 2015
03:56:19 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

pyotr filipivich wrote:

Greetings

I have a "work space" - aka A Shed - a 10 x 12', "It will do."

Outside is primed a nice beige color, but the inside is not. There
being a lot of OSB, the recommendation is to paint/ seal it before the
rains resume. Which is usually mid September so it isn't an immediate
concern. Not this year anyway.
OTOH, I need to do this "soonest" so as to be able to move stuff
in before the wedding. Which is just one more little detail I have to
deal with.

So - how much paint / primer on the inside before I slap
insulation between the studs and panel over it all?
I have a sprayer, which I think will make it go faster (for some
values). While the old "M-80 in the paint can" technique might be
faster, I have two very nice (and expensive to replace) windows I
don't want to break. Not to mention the neighbors.

You should never stick an M80 in your neighbors, no matter how bad
they are. ;-)

Oh yes, good point. Community relations and all that.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

pyotr filipivich on Fri, 03 Jul 2015 23:13:59
-0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
Greetings

I have a "work space" - aka A Shed - a 10 x 12', "It will do."

Outside is primed a nice beige color, but the inside is not. There
being a lot of OSB, the recommendation is to paint/ seal it before the
rains resume. Which is usually mid September so it isn't an immediate
concern. Not this year anyway.
OTOH, I need to do this "soonest" so as to be able to move stuff
in before the wedding. Which is just one more little detail I have to
deal with.

So - how much paint / primer on the inside before I slap
insulation between the studs and panel over it all?

SO far - while a gallon of paint is suppose to cover 400 sq feet,
I was only able to get a coat and a third on the floor. Unprimed OSB
- what can you say.
The Fiberglass bats went into the ceiling area with a minimum of
fuss - well a lot of fuss. But the "new" fiberglass doesn't have the
itch factor of the old, which is a boone. Especially when it is hot
outside and hotter inside.
A standard hand held staple beats no stapler at all, but there
isn't the budget for even a cheap powered one. Such is life. (For
those who wonder - you use twine stapled across the batts to hold it
"in place". Trick I learned when retrofitting insulation under
houses.)
Also I "discovered" that the rafters have gussets at the top.
Can't just slap paneling up there, will have to either trim or figure
another method.
Getting the "loft" area paneled is the priority - there will be a
cat, and if she is like other cats, will find a way up there, and I
just want to minimize the opportunity for a cat and fiberglass to
interact.
Home Depot has a nice plain paneling - but only had one sheet in
stock. So I went with the cheaper "Wood Grain Finish" - it will make
for some interesting effects when I start the "cut and patch" phase.

Taking a 'break' to do other stuff while it rains. An inch on
Sunday is "welcome" (in an unusual twist Western Washington is "green
and Golden" this summer.)


tschus
pyotr



--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

On Mon, 27 Jul 2015 08:25:03 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

pyotr filipivich on Fri, 03 Jul 2015 23:13:59
-0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
Greetings

I have a "work space" - aka A Shed - a 10 x 12', "It will do."

Outside is primed a nice beige color, but the inside is not. There
being a lot of OSB, the recommendation is to paint/ seal it before the
rains resume. Which is usually mid September so it isn't an immediate
concern. Not this year anyway.
OTOH, I need to do this "soonest" so as to be able to move stuff
in before the wedding. Which is just one more little detail I have to
deal with.

So - how much paint / primer on the inside before I slap
insulation between the studs and panel over it all?

SO far - while a gallon of paint is suppose to cover 400 sq feet,
I was only able to get a coat and a third on the floor. Unprimed OSB
- what can you say.

You can ask "Why didn't you prime it first?" and "Why didn't you read
the fine print on the paint can, which says 100-400s/f, depending on
porosity?


The Fiberglass bats went into the ceiling area with a minimum of
fuss - well a lot of fuss. But the "new" fiberglass doesn't have the
itch factor of the old, which is a boone. Especially when it is hot
outside and hotter inside.

Batts are great, and the treatment keeps it from bring very itchy
nowadays. I love the difference. My pump house is about the same
size and I put batts up last year. World of difference. Between the
roof bats, not ceiling, right?


A standard hand held staple beats no stapler at all, but there
isn't the budget for even a cheap powered one. Such is life. (For
those who wonder - you use twine stapled across the batts to hold it
"in place". Trick I learned when retrofitting insulation under
houses.)

A cheap electric stapler -isn't- worth the money. I have R38 twined
up under my floor here. It was very easy to install. I just asked the
guys who sprayed the borates on the underframe (and the visqueen to
the dirt) to add it. If you have a compressor, get a nice little 1/2"
crown stapler from HF for $23. A freon tank full of 90psi air will
put about 150 staples out before it hits the 55psi minimum those
staplers need to properly drive staples. $2 for 1000 staples.
http://tinyurl.com/nakbl93 and http://tinyurl.com/p5cmoer

Also I "discovered" that the rafters have gussets at the top.
Can't just slap paneling up there, will have to either trim or figure
another method.

Gussets are a bitch to crawl around through/over/under in houses, but
for a shed, why not just put up a 1/4" ply ceiling on the studs? It's
lightweight and less expensive, and with the insulation already up
there, it's not necessary to have a thick or insulated ceiling.


Getting the "loft" area paneled is the priority - there will be a
cat, and if she is like other cats, will find a way up there, and I
just want to minimize the opportunity for a cat and fiberglass to
interact.

Oh, it's lofted. Nevermind...


Home Depot has a nice plain paneling - but only had one sheet in
stock. So I went with the cheaper "Wood Grain Finish" - it will make
for some interesting effects when I start the "cut and patch" phase.

Yummy!


Taking a 'break' to do other stuff while it rains. An inch on
Sunday is "welcome" (in an unusual twist Western Washington is "green
and Golden" this summer.)

Carry on! We greened up pretty quickly with that 3/4" storm last
month. All 4 of my gutters were overrunning their full length for
about an hour. The last 3 weeks of 90-107F temps degreened them
pretty quickly, too.

--
My desire to be well-informed is currently
at odds with my desire to remain sane. --Sipkess