I saw what I want on a finished item, but am hoping it's a stock thing
rather than made-to-order.

1/8" stainless cable is crimped into a short (~3/4") section of aluminium
rod, the other end is threaded 1/4 - 20 for about 1/4". Just want the
aluminium bit.

Nothing like it I have seen in 20 mins of google-image-search; help?

unk fired this volley in news:mfmmak$fgh$1
@speranza.aioe.org:

Nothing like it I have seen in 20 mins of google-image-search; help?

ONE search! G

http://www.cableartinc.com/cableRail...readedStud.php

On 4/3/2015 2:34 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
unk fired this volley in news:mfmmak$fgh$1
@speranza.aioe.org:

Nothing like it I have seen in 20 mins of google-image-search; help?

ONE search! G

http://www.cableartinc.com/cableRail...readedStud.php



7th degree black belt in Google-Fu!!

On Fri, 03 Apr 2015 13:34:04 -0500, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

unk fired this volley in news:mfmmak$fgh$1
@speranza.aioe.org:

Nothing like it I have seen in 20 mins of google-image-search; help?

ONE search! G

http://www.cableartinc.com/cableRail...readedStud.php


That'd work, but the bit I saw was a lot shorter, and it had a bit of a
flange, about 3/8", between the threaded section and the crimp. The
crimp part was only 3/8" or so long.

No good for a big load, obviously. It was holding a pewter flower such
that it could flop about (= was art).

unk fired this volley in news:mfob30$m1m$1
@speranza.aioe.org:

That'd work, but the bit I saw was a lot shorter, and it had a bit of a
flange, about 3/8", between the threaded section and the crimp. The
crimp part was only 3/8" or so long.

Um.... NOW that you know what they're called...

And exactly WHY could you not cut down an aluminum stud? No "special
aluminum cutting lathe"? Oh... wait... if you had that...

Lloyd

On Sat, 4 Apr 2015 09:32:16 +0000 (UTC), unk wrote:

On Fri, 03 Apr 2015 13:34:04 -0500, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

unk fired this volley in news:mfmmak$fgh$1
@speranza.aioe.org:

Nothing like it I have seen in 20 mins of google-image-search; help?

ONE search! G

http://www.cableartinc.com/cableRail...readedStud.php


That'd work, but the bit I saw was a lot shorter, and it had a bit of a
flange, about 3/8", between the threaded section and the crimp. The
crimp part was only 3/8" or so long.

No good for a big load, obviously. It was holding a pewter flower such
that it could flop about (= was art).

That stuff is like gold to the mfgrs, and they're damned proud of
them. ChaCHING! I priced some Feeney parts once and just about had a
heart attack. www.feenyinc.com A 9-cable 10' long kit was something
like $400 a few years ago. That's 90' of 1/8" cable plus 18 ends.

--
In preparing for battle I have always found that plans are useless,
but planning is indispensable. --Gen. Dwight D. Eisenhower

On Sat, 04 Apr 2015 06:10:28 -0500, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

unk fired this volley in news:mfob30$m1m$1
@speranza.aioe.org:

That'd work, but the bit I saw was a lot shorter, and it had a bit of a
flange, about 3/8", between the threaded section and the crimp. The
crimp part was only 3/8" or so long.

Um.... NOW that you know what they're called...

And exactly WHY could you not cut down an aluminum stud? No "special
aluminum cutting lathe"? Oh... wait... if you had that...

Lloyd

I have several lathes, and a hacksaw, and sundry other tools...

....but it's not a one-off, this is an idea for a friend who might use
MANY of these bits so eliminating a few steps for a few cents extra makes
sense.

unk fired this volley in
:

...but it's not a one-off, this is an idea for a friend who might use
MANY of these bits so eliminating a few steps for a few cents extra
makes sense.


If you have a lathe, and some reasonable measuring tools, 'part
duplication' is a fast and easy process. About the only departure from
'normal' would be adding a compliant die adaptor to your tailstock to
handle a 1/4-20 die (point threading wouldn't suit for rapid
duplication).

I could bore, turn, and thread one of those in about one minute total
machining time on a purely manual lathe. And so could you.

They're not 'precision' devices. Re-chucking work won't cost you the
sort of runouts that would damage its utility.

So, you chuck up round stock of the correct o.d. You drill the end to
match the un-crimped cable diameter, then use a cutoff tool to part the
workpiece. Step and repeat for a few hundred. That might take two
hours.

Then re-chuck the cutoffs, turn the minor diameter and thread them. The
'compliant' die holder is so you can force a start, then stop the die
with the spindle switch before it hits the shoulder. Then you just hand-
turn the last two or three threads, and reverse the spindle to get the
die back off the end.

Quick, easy, cheap. (but I don't know how much you 'pay' yourself for
such mundane work).

LLoyd

On 2015-04-04, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
unk fired this volley in
:

...but it's not a one-off, this is an idea for a friend who might use
MANY of these bits so eliminating a few steps for a few cents extra
makes sense.


If you have a lathe, and some reasonable measuring tools, 'part
duplication' is a fast and easy process. About the only departure from
'normal' would be adding a compliant die adaptor to your tailstock to
handle a 1/4-20 die (point threading wouldn't suit for rapid
duplication).

[ ... ]

Then re-chuck the cutoffs, turn the minor diameter and thread them. The
'compliant' die holder is so you can force a start, then stop the die
with the spindle switch before it hits the shoulder. Then you just hand-
turn the last two or three threads, and reverse the spindle to get the
die back off the end.

Even better -- if you have a bed turret available for your
lathe -- is to use something like a Geometric die head. It cuts to the
point where your turret stop is for that station (another station does
the drilling, and another perhaps a bit of finish turning before
threading), and when the stop is hit, the threads already cut pull it a
bit deeper, until it releases a clutch which lets the four chasers pop
out radially to clear the workpiece so you can withdraw the die head
while the workpiece is still spinning. If you set it up right, you can
thread right up to a shoulder at fairly high spindle speeds.

But -- if the threads in the aluminum are going to be used for
frequent adjustments, you probably want to look into a rolling threader
instead. No chips, and the thread material is work hardened for better
life.

Quick, easy, cheap. (but I don't know how much you 'pay' yourself for
such mundane work).

If his friend is going to be making things in the thousands, it
would make sense to find a commercial part which would serve -- or find
someone with a screw machine lathe and automate the production. Run it
one day and have 10,000 of the parts you need. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

Even better -- if you have a bed turret available for your
lathe -- is to use something like a Geometric die head.

Yep, Don, that would be just the trick for a guy who didn't realize he
could do these on his "several lathes" in the first place!

(A 'chaser die' is a tool I don't yet own, but hope to.)

Lloyd

On Friday, April 3, 2015 at 11:31:53 AM UTC-7, unk wrote:
I saw what I want on a finished item, but am hoping it's a stock thing

1/8" stainless cable is crimped into a short (~3/4") section of aluminium
rod, the other end is threaded 1/4 - 20 for about 1/4". Just want the
aluminium bit.

That's odd; 1/8" stainless cable is rarely used for such low tension as a 1/4-20
aluminum stud would hold.

Stainless eye ends with a circa 2" engagement and high tech adhesives, I've seen.

On Sat, 4 Apr 2015 15:41:56 +0000 (UTC), unk wrote:

On Sat, 04 Apr 2015 06:10:28 -0500, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

unk fired this volley in news:mfob30$m1m$1
@speranza.aioe.org:

That'd work, but the bit I saw was a lot shorter, and it had a bit of a
flange, about 3/8", between the threaded section and the crimp. The
crimp part was only 3/8" or so long.

Um.... NOW that you know what they're called...

And exactly WHY could you not cut down an aluminum stud? No "special
aluminum cutting lathe"? Oh... wait... if you had that...

Lloyd

I have several lathes, and a hacksaw, and sundry other tools...

...but it's not a one-off, this is an idea for a friend who might use
MANY of these bits so eliminating a few steps for a few cents extra makes
sense.
What kind of quantity is your friend looking for? I wouldn't mind
bidding the job. Then your friend could get exactly what he wanted.
Eric Snow,
E T Precision Machine