On 2015-03-05, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 5 Mar 2015 02:31:46 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2015-03-04, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 20:30:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

[ ... ]

at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete

[ ... ]

As I read it above, he is trying to get the arbor (remains) out
of the chuck, not the spindle.


Ah..the chuck is on the end of the arbor IN the spindle..else its like
no drill press Ive ever seen before. And I work on a lot of them

The arbor removes from *most* spindles with a Morse key drift,
using the slot in the spindle for access. (And for the Taiwanese drill
press which I have, there is slot in the quill to access that, while
some have the slot in an area below the quill.

But -- I *have* seen cheap (and usually small) drill presses
with the Jabobs taper as a part of the end of the spindle, in which case
the separation is more difficult.

Nute that he did say (as still quoted above):

"Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete "

Implying that it was a matter of separating the rather beat up
arbor from the chuck, so a new one could be fitted, to allow it to be
used in the Clausing drill press. Probably the arbor got beat up when
the previous owner attempted to remove it to replace it with an arbor
which is a proper fit for the Clausing's spindle.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete
with a vise, what might be an angle grinder or file and other prying
tools. The jaws and shell seem OK. I tried to pound out the arbor with no
luck. I finally drilled into it with a 1/8 drill bit, then 5/16ths then
3/8ths by hand to try to push it out with a punch. Somehow that got stuck
in the hole and I had to cut the arbor off to get the punch out. I'll try
to thread the hole and pop the stub of the arbor out with a bolt and stack
of washers. The arbor is a super old looking and real Morse, that doesn't
appear to be hardened at all, anywhere, considering I was able to hand
drill into it as well as cut it off with a hacksaw. Was this normal back
in the day?
================
Just a thought but Albrecht makes an integral shank chuck.
Does this one have the groove in the shank for the removal
wedges? http://tinyurl.com/ma9j6so
--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

On Thu, 05 Mar 2015 18:39:21 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in
:

Correct. The spindle seems ok at this point, and separate from the
chuck. Not having access to some rather basic tools in the right place
for this sort of work is making thinks take some time.


Y'know... tapers being tapers, a few light whacks from the SIDE might
just loosen that up enough to come out. If I were doing it, I wouldn't
bang on it hard for fear of damaging the socket in the chuck, but I would
give it a number of smart taps from all directions (and quite close to
the chuck body) -- THEN try to extract it.

Having another hammer opposite the strike/against the back of the
spindle will help counteract the hammer hit (saving the bearings) and
make it more effective.


Ummm... You HAVE made sure there's not a retaining screw INSIDE the chuck
holding that sucker in... yes? It's not common in taper-mounted chucks,
but I've seen it.

Good question. That's thinking "inside the chuck". groan

--
Stain and poly are their own punishment.

On Thu, 05 Mar 2015 19:37:22 -0600, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.
Came across some Albrecht 130 threads that may be of
help/interest.
http://tinyurl.com/pybc65q {very good youtube how-to}

Nice step-by-step, but he does make a critical error at around 30:30
when he greases the screw threads. Lubricating the thread will make
the chuck feel springy and cause it to release too easily. If you find
the chuck releases when backing out a tap while power tapping (for a
reasonable size tap), oil or grease on that thread is likely the
problem.

The last page of this catalog has the short version of the repair
procedure.
http://www.royalprod.com/img/categor...recht_Full.pdf

--
Ned Simmons

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Having another hammer opposite the strike/against the back of the
spindle will help counteract the hammer hit (saving the bearings) and
make it more effective.

It's OUT of the spindle. He's trying to get the taper out of the chuck.

Lloyd

On Fri, 06 Mar 2015 05:35:36 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Having another hammer opposite the strike/against the back of the
spindle will help counteract the hammer hit (saving the bearings) and
make it more effective.

It's OUT of the spindle. He's trying to get the taper out of the chuck.

OK, I hadn't been following it from the start. The point I was trying
to make is that a firm backup makes sure the strike is effective.

Heat & Freeze to break the connection?

--
Stain and poly are their own punishment.

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 06 Mar 2015 05:35:36 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Having another hammer opposite the strike/against the back of the
spindle will help counteract the hammer hit (saving the bearings)
and make it more effective.

It's OUT of the spindle. He's trying to get the taper out of the
chuck.

OK, I hadn't been following it from the start. The point I was trying
to make is that a firm backup makes sure the strike is effective.

Heat & Freeze to break the connection?

A 350° oven and an ice cube ... Dry ice would be better , but ya gotta work
with what ya got .
Cydrome , is this the drill press that had a bunch of runout ? Maybe caused
by using the wrong taper on the spindle end of the mandrel , from a mention
above about Clausing tapers ...
--
Snag

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...

Cydrome , is this the drill press that had a bunch of runout ? Maybe
caused by using the wrong taper on the spindle end of the mandrel ,
from a mention above about Clausing tapers ...
--
Snag

A Brown & Sharpe #7 taper is almost identical to Morse #2.

-jsw

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in
:

Correct. The spindle seems ok at this point, and separate from the
chuck. Not having access to some rather basic tools in the right place
for this sort of work is making thinks take some time.


Y'know... tapers being tapers, a few light whacks from the SIDE might
just loosen that up enough to come out. If I were doing it, I wouldn't
bang on it hard for fear of damaging the socket in the chuck, but I would
give it a number of smart taps from all directions (and quite close to
the chuck body) -- THEN try to extract it.

Ummm... You HAVE made sure there's not a retaining screw INSIDE the chuck
holding that sucker in... yes? It's not common in taper-mounted chucks,
but I've seen it.

I finally got it apart, will post photos later on. There were a few
surprises.

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:mddi84
:

I finally got it apart, will post photos later on. There were a few
surprises.

Hooray -- and, there almost always are 'surprises' when something doesn't
come apart as it should G.

LLoyd

On Thu, 5 Mar 2015 20:58:50 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Martin Eastburn wrote:
Does the Morse taper have a threaded rod coming down from the top ?
Large Morse often do and those I use in my lathe and the R8 in my mill
have bolts that hold the taper in.

It just has a tang. that half of the arbor has been sawed off to get the
punch out. I'm still not really sure how it got stuck in the first place.
I've started to tap the hole for a bolt, which I have to get from a HW
store. Clamping the super smooth chuck body down is proving a challenge
all by itself, I don't have a vise here, but was using copper sheet and a
huge kant-twist clamp to hold the thing.

Rule#1 for home shop owner:

"Obtain decent vise, preferably one not made in China"

Rule #2 for home shop owner:

"Mount vise on something solid and not likely to turn
over when force is applied to it.

Rule #2A "Build heavy work bench to hold vise before going any
further"


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Thu, 05 Mar 2015 18:40:07 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 05 Mar 2015 18:39:21 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in
:

Correct. The spindle seems ok at this point, and separate from the
chuck. Not having access to some rather basic tools in the right place
for this sort of work is making thinks take some time.


Y'know... tapers being tapers, a few light whacks from the SIDE might
just loosen that up enough to come out. If I were doing it, I wouldn't
bang on it hard for fear of damaging the socket in the chuck, but I would
give it a number of smart taps from all directions (and quite close to
the chuck body) -- THEN try to extract it.

Having another hammer opposite the strike/against the back of the
spindle will help counteract the hammer hit (saving the bearings) and
make it more effective.

Truth!!!


Ummm... You HAVE made sure there's not a retaining screw INSIDE the chuck
holding that sucker in... yes? It's not common in taper-mounted chucks,
but I've seen it.

Good question. That's thinking "inside the chuck". groan

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Fri, 6 Mar 2015 12:52:14 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...

Cydrome , is this the drill press that had a bunch of runout ? Maybe
caused by using the wrong taper on the spindle end of the mandrel ,
from a mention above about Clausing tapers ...
--
Snag

A Brown & Sharpe #7 taper is almost identical to Morse #2.

-jsw

Almost. But not close ENOUGH


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 5 Mar 2015 20:58:50 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Martin Eastburn wrote:
Does the Morse taper have a threaded rod coming down from the top ?
Large Morse often do and those I use in my lathe and the R8 in my mill
have bolts that hold the taper in.

It just has a tang. that half of the arbor has been sawed off to get the
punch out. I'm still not really sure how it got stuck in the first place.
I've started to tap the hole for a bolt, which I have to get from a HW
store. Clamping the super smooth chuck body down is proving a challenge
all by itself, I don't have a vise here, but was using copper sheet and a
huge kant-twist clamp to hold the thing.

Rule#1 for home shop owner:

"Obtain decent vise, preferably one not made in China"

I'm steering towards a Yost 34C if something similar doesn't pop up
locally soon. They still make a bunch of models in the USA.

Rule #2 for home shop owner:

"Mount vise on something solid and not likely to turn
over when force is applied to it.

Rule #2A "Build heavy work bench to hold vise before going any
further"

soon.

Cydrome Leader wrote:
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in
:

Correct. The spindle seems ok at this point, and separate from the
chuck. Not having access to some rather basic tools in the right place
for this sort of work is making thinks take some time.


Y'know... tapers being tapers, a few light whacks from the SIDE might
just loosen that up enough to come out. If I were doing it, I wouldn't
bang on it hard for fear of damaging the socket in the chuck, but I would
give it a number of smart taps from all directions (and quite close to
the chuck body) -- THEN try to extract it.

Ummm... You HAVE made sure there's not a retaining screw INSIDE the chuck
holding that sucker in... yes? It's not common in taper-mounted chucks,
but I've seen it.

I finally got it apart, will post photos later on. There were a few
surprises.

I don't have time to post the photos yet, but here's what happened.

The oversized 3/8" hole I put though the Jacobs 33 side or the arbor that
was sawed off the Morse side finally popped off with two 2 wrenches, a
7/16-14 grade 8 bolt and nut. I held the bolt and chuck body stationary a
wrench and a clamp and then torqued the nut clockwise over a stack of
washers. Had to really lay into it but it made a popping sound then still
had to be turned more to get it out. I used a nut and bolt to keep most of
the torque between the two wrenches. The only torque on the chuck was from
friction between the nut and washer stack. That all got a touch of lithium
grease.

The Jacobs side of the otherwise unhardened arbor was apparently ground
and hardened, to a surpringly nice finish. The inside of the chuck body
also had a perfect finished although it was blue/black in color like it
was somehow tempered like a file handle. There was no signs it ever spun
out, or anything else was heated. There is no damage of any type inside
that taper that I can see.

The amount the arbor stub sticks out when hand pressed back into the chuck
is 3/32" further out than when it was fully jammed into place. I have no
idea how it was pushed in there so far, but it was. Hell, maybe that's why
the entire thing ended up sort of bent in the first place.

I removed the quill and it seems one bearing has a tight spot, so I took
all of that apart. It took a bit of light hammering and heat (to melt the
old grease) to get the spindle and bearings apart. Will order new
bearings, they're Fafnir 202KDD5, which is apparently really common in old
drill presses and have a 5/8" bore and metric OD. Yeah- they're really
metric OD with an inch bore. I can't figure out what the 5 at the end of
part number is, but there are exact Fafnir replacements out there for
about $15 each.

The spindle does have some weirdness, but I'll continue that tomorrow.

thank for all the tips.

On Mon, 9 Mar 2015 06:17:37 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 5 Mar 2015 20:58:50 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Martin Eastburn wrote:
Does the Morse taper have a threaded rod coming down from the top ?
Large Morse often do and those I use in my lathe and the R8 in my mill
have bolts that hold the taper in.

It just has a tang. that half of the arbor has been sawed off to get the
punch out. I'm still not really sure how it got stuck in the first place.
I've started to tap the hole for a bolt, which I have to get from a HW
store. Clamping the super smooth chuck body down is proving a challenge
all by itself, I don't have a vise here, but was using copper sheet and a
huge kant-twist clamp to hold the thing.

Rule#1 for home shop owner:

"Obtain decent vise, preferably one not made in China"

I'm steering towards a Yost 34C if something similar doesn't pop up
locally soon. They still make a bunch of models in the USA.

Ive never seen a Yost vise. Ive heard of them..but never seen one
first person.

On the other hand..I have close to 30, that were made in the US or
England.

Athol/Starrett, Charles Parker, Columbian, Wilton, American Scale,
Prentiss, Desmend-Simplex, Reed, Record and of course..my Dawn vise
and a few others Id have to go look and see what they are. Its
3:30am..yawn.

Oh..then there are the tiny Stanleys, the Yale, the Brown&Sharpes, the
Bridgeport (mill vise) and the 2 Kurt Anglocks..and a couple Japanese
clones of the Kurts and the vise on my Logan shaper and the vise on
the horizontal mill..no.,thats a Kurt..never mind and......I think
there are some Chinese vises out there..but..shrug..oh..and the 2-3
various aluminum Panavises *(bench and circuit board )and probably
4-5 unmarked small ones that are probably Japanese..

Hummm...maybe I have more than 30...need to count em some day.
Shrug
Ah...do pin vises also count? Just wondering...

I dont have a post vise though. Someday!!





Rule #2 for home shop owner:

"Mount vise on something solid and not likely to turn
over when force is applied to it.

Rule #2A "Build heavy work bench to hold vise before going any
further"

soon.

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Mon, 9 Mar 2015 06:37:23 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Cydrome Leader wrote:
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in
:

Correct. The spindle seems ok at this point, and separate from the
chuck. Not having access to some rather basic tools in the right place
for this sort of work is making thinks take some time.


Y'know... tapers being tapers, a few light whacks from the SIDE might
just loosen that up enough to come out. If I were doing it, I wouldn't
bang on it hard for fear of damaging the socket in the chuck, but I would
give it a number of smart taps from all directions (and quite close to
the chuck body) -- THEN try to extract it.

Ummm... You HAVE made sure there's not a retaining screw INSIDE the chuck
holding that sucker in... yes? It's not common in taper-mounted chucks,
but I've seen it.

I finally got it apart, will post photos later on. There were a few
surprises.

I don't have time to post the photos yet, but here's what happened.

The oversized 3/8" hole I put though the Jacobs 33 side or the arbor that
was sawed off the Morse side finally popped off with two 2 wrenches, a
7/16-14 grade 8 bolt and nut. I held the bolt and chuck body stationary a
wrench and a clamp and then torqued the nut clockwise over a stack of
washers. Had to really lay into it but it made a popping sound then still
had to be turned more to get it out. I used a nut and bolt to keep most of
the torque between the two wrenches. The only torque on the chuck was from
friction between the nut and washer stack. That all got a touch of lithium
grease.

The Jacobs side of the otherwise unhardened arbor was apparently ground
and hardened, to a surpringly nice finish. The inside of the chuck body
also had a perfect finished although it was blue/black in color like it
was somehow tempered like a file handle. There was no signs it ever spun
out, or anything else was heated. There is no damage of any type inside
that taper that I can see.

The amount the arbor stub sticks out when hand pressed back into the chuck
is 3/32" further out than when it was fully jammed into place. I have no
idea how it was pushed in there so far, but it was. Hell, maybe that's why
the entire thing ended up sort of bent in the first place.

I removed the quill and it seems one bearing has a tight spot, so I took
all of that apart. It took a bit of light hammering and heat (to melt the
old grease) to get the spindle and bearings apart. Will order new
bearings, they're Fafnir 202KDD5, which is apparently really common in old
drill presses and have a 5/8" bore and metric OD. Yeah- they're really
metric OD with an inch bore. I can't figure out what the 5 at the end of
part number is, but there are exact Fafnir replacements out there for
about $15 each.

The spindle does have some weirdness, but I'll continue that tomorrow.

thank for all the tips.

Check here for bearings

http://www.vxb.com/ballbearings.html...FQsFaQodhRIAmA

Good people. An ungodly choice of bearings. I think you could get by
with Chicom bearings with no issue. If you are running a production
shop and the drill will be running 3-5 hrs a day..go with better
ones..but for the usual hobby shop stuff..the Chinese will do the job
just fine for very little money

Might try here

http://www.webcomdev3.com/shop/item/...w_ball_bearing
Genuine Fafnir for $8.25 each

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:mdjf33
:

they're Fafnir 202KDD5, which is apparently really common in old
drill presses and have a 5/8" bore and metric OD. Yeah- they're really
metric OD with an inch bore. I can't figure out what the 5 at the end of
part number is

That combination of metric vs. imperial is common-enough. I haven't looked
up the Fafnir numbers, but the 5 is probably the 'precision number' of the
bearing.

LLoyd

On Mon, 09 Mar 2015 06:04:49 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:mdjf33
:

they're Fafnir 202KDD5, which is apparently really common in old
drill presses and have a 5/8" bore and metric OD. Yeah- they're really
metric OD with an inch bore. I can't figure out what the 5 at the end of
part number is

That combination of metric vs. imperial is common-enough. I haven't looked
up the Fafnir numbers, but the 5 is probably the 'precision number' of the
bearing.

LLoyd

Ayup. Thats what it is. A grade number. Which isnt very high.

Anyone want to know what the number/letters on bearings stand for...

"DD" = "Martensitic stainless steel"

http://www.nmbtc.com/bearings/part-numbering/

Gunner, who buys a fair number of bearings..including grade 9s


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Mon, 09 Mar 2015 04:30:51 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 09 Mar 2015 06:04:49 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:mdjf33
:

they're Fafnir 202KDD5, which is apparently really common in old
drill presses and have a 5/8" bore and metric OD. Yeah- they're really
metric OD with an inch bore. I can't figure out what the 5 at the end of
part number is

That combination of metric vs. imperial is common-enough. I haven't looked
up the Fafnir numbers, but the 5 is probably the 'precision number' of the
bearing.

LLoyd

Ayup. Thats what it is. A grade number. Which isnt very high.

Probably not the grade. More likely it designates an inch bore in an
otherwise metric bearing. A 202KDD (no 5 suffix) is 15x35x11 mm.

Anyone want to know what the number/letters on bearings stand for...

"DD" = "Martensitic stainless steel"

http://www.nmbtc.com/bearings/part-numbering/

Definitely not a material spec. DD on this bearing means "2 shields."


Gunner, who buys a fair number of bearings..including grade 9s


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

--
Ned Simmons

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 09 Mar 2015 06:04:49 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:mdjf33
:

they're Fafnir 202KDD5, which is apparently really common in old
drill presses and have a 5/8" bore and metric OD. Yeah- they're really
metric OD with an inch bore. I can't figure out what the 5 at the end of
part number is

That combination of metric vs. imperial is common-enough. I haven't looked
up the Fafnir numbers, but the 5 is probably the 'precision number' of the
bearing.

LLoyd

Ayup. Thats what it is. A grade number. Which isnt very high.

Anyone want to know what the number/letters on bearings stand for...

"DD" = "Martensitic stainless steel"

http://www.nmbtc.com/bearings/part-numbering/

Gunner, who buys a fair number of bearings..including grade 9s

At lease for this series, the 200k ones, DD is two shields, like ZZ these days. I did locate some
Fafnir part number decoders, but there was no mention of what may be grades for this series.

On Mon, 9 Mar 2015 17:46:02 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 09 Mar 2015 06:04:49 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:mdjf33
:

they're Fafnir 202KDD5, which is apparently really common in old
drill presses and have a 5/8" bore and metric OD. Yeah- they're really
metric OD with an inch bore. I can't figure out what the 5 at the end of
part number is

That combination of metric vs. imperial is common-enough. I haven't looked
up the Fafnir numbers, but the 5 is probably the 'precision number' of the
bearing.

LLoyd

Ayup. Thats what it is. A grade number. Which isnt very high.

Anyone want to know what the number/letters on bearings stand for...

"DD" = "Martensitic stainless steel"

http://www.nmbtc.com/bearings/part-numbering/

Gunner, who buys a fair number of bearings..including grade 9s

At lease for this series, the 200k ones, DD is two shields, like ZZ these days. I did locate some
Fafnir part number decoders, but there was no mention of what may be grades for this series.


Must be plastic/rubber shields on the bearings, ZZ indicates metal
shielded.

Those bearings appear to be an average Grade 5/6 at the very best. So
Id order that cheap set I gave you a link to. If they are out..buy
chicom bearings and don't worry about it.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

F. George McDuffee wrote:
On Thu, 5 Mar 2015 21:02:59 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2015-03-04, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 20:30:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from

[ ... ]

at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete

[ ... ]

https://www.google.com/search?q=pick...utf-8&oe=utf-8

The condition of the arbor was too poor to use wedges or any type of
prying tool anymore. I really can't determine what the last person was
even trying to really do from all the marks and worn off sections. The
end chuck body itself was pretty chewed up. I'm going to use a
7/16-14 tap (it fits the slighly oversized 3/8 hole) and bolt to try to
pull the JT33 stub of the arbor out. If I can locate my coping saw I
might just try to cut into the shell of the arbor to relieve the tension a
bit. I'm still surprised at how soft the old Morse arbor really is.

If..if you have enough stub sticking out of the spindle..you
could..could try drilling a 1/4 or 5/16" cross hole just below the
spindle and then inserting a good quality dowel pin and then use a
wedge between the dowel pin and the spindle nose. Or a pickle fork.
Shrug

As I read it above, he is trying to get the arbor (remains) out
of the chuck, not the spindle.

Correct. The spindle seems ok at this point, and separate from the chuck.
Not having access to some rather basic tools in the right place for this
sort of work is making thinks take some time.

see
http://tinyurl.com/mobjnc7
wedges bottom of page

and
http://tinyurl.com/kezd47a

most local mill supply stores should carry these as well as
Enco, Wholesale Tool, Travers, etc.

I think I've finished up with the chuck. It was packed with horrible green
grease, everywhere which I removed. The part the jaws slide up and down on
had some damage so I filed and stoned that down and they stopped binding
and I was then able to test runout by tossing a piece of ground rod in my
lathe and then having the chuck clamp down on that. I tested runout with
an indicator running on the inside tape of the chuck body.

It was pretty bad. Ordered new jaws and the part that they slide around on
and it appears the jaws are what mostly fixed that. There appears to still
be several thousandths of runout, but the lathe chuck is a bit off too, so
whatever for now.

New bearings should arrive tomorrow.

tests of the spindle itself, sitting on V-blocks show it isn't
bent between where the bearings are. The runout there is barely 1
thousandth and once the bearings are preloaded, it going to be about zero
is my guess.

The fat part of the spindle with the taper is different with around 5
thousandths rounout at one point as measure from the far end of OD, not
the taper. This number was much higher with the old arbor installed
indicating that a slightly bent arbor can really flex the spindle. I'll
check real runout once I get a new arbor.

There are traces somebody has been here before I was, as the locking
collar that puts a preload on the bearings was installed backwards and it
looks like somebody took a torch to some parts of the spindle. Maybe to
heat straighten it in the past?

The plan is to locate a couple outlets and combine them into a three phase
run back to the breaker box. There appears to be dedicated outlets in my
space that once ran computers so I hope this can be pullled off without
running even more conduit in the ceilings. It's a bit busy up there to
start with. A safety disconnect from ebay arrived, complete with
somebody's lockout. Need to get some ~5 amp (a check on fusing an old
3/4HP, 3Ph 208 volt motors shows values around there) slow blow cartridge
fuses and a used (aka cheap) 3 phase breaker that part will be set.