On Mon, 9 Mar 2015 06:37:23 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:
Cydrome Leader wrote:
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in
:
Correct. The spindle seems ok at this point, and separate from the
chuck. Not having access to some rather basic tools in the right place
for this sort of work is making thinks take some time.
Y'know... tapers being tapers, a few light whacks from the SIDE might
just loosen that up enough to come out. If I were doing it, I wouldn't
bang on it hard for fear of damaging the socket in the chuck, but I would
give it a number of smart taps from all directions (and quite close to
the chuck body) -- THEN try to extract it.
Ummm... You HAVE made sure there's not a retaining screw INSIDE the chuck
holding that sucker in... yes? It's not common in taper-mounted chucks,
but I've seen it.
I finally got it apart, will post photos later on. There were a few
surprises.
I don't have time to post the photos yet, but here's what happened.
The oversized 3/8" hole I put though the Jacobs 33 side or the arbor that
was sawed off the Morse side finally popped off with two 2 wrenches, a
7/16-14 grade 8 bolt and nut. I held the bolt and chuck body stationary a
wrench and a clamp and then torqued the nut clockwise over a stack of
washers. Had to really lay into it but it made a popping sound then still
had to be turned more to get it out. I used a nut and bolt to keep most of
the torque between the two wrenches. The only torque on the chuck was from
friction between the nut and washer stack. That all got a touch of lithium
grease.
The Jacobs side of the otherwise unhardened arbor was apparently ground
and hardened, to a surpringly nice finish. The inside of the chuck body
also had a perfect finished although it was blue/black in color like it
was somehow tempered like a file handle. There was no signs it ever spun
out, or anything else was heated. There is no damage of any type inside
that taper that I can see.
The amount the arbor stub sticks out when hand pressed back into the chuck
is 3/32" further out than when it was fully jammed into place. I have no
idea how it was pushed in there so far, but it was. Hell, maybe that's why
the entire thing ended up sort of bent in the first place.
I removed the quill and it seems one bearing has a tight spot, so I took
all of that apart. It took a bit of light hammering and heat (to melt the
old grease) to get the spindle and bearings apart. Will order new
bearings, they're Fafnir 202KDD5, which is apparently really common in old
drill presses and have a 5/8" bore and metric OD. Yeah- they're really
metric OD with an inch bore. I can't figure out what the 5 at the end of
part number is, but there are exact Fafnir replacements out there for
about $15 each.
The spindle does have some weirdness, but I'll continue that tomorrow.
thank for all the tips.
Check here for bearings
http://www.vxb.com/ballbearings.html...FQsFaQodhRIAmA
Good people. An ungodly choice of bearings. I think you could get by
with Chicom bearings with no issue. If you are running a production
shop and the drill will be running 3-5 hrs a day..go with better
ones..but for the usual hobby shop stuff..the Chinese will do the job
just fine for very little money
Might try here
http://www.webcomdev3.com/shop/item/...w_ball_bearing
Genuine Fafnir for $8.25 each
Gunner
"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke