Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Clausing drill press followup

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from
500 to 4000 RPM as it's the fast version. Serial numbers and styling
indicate it's from between 1962 and 1965. The motor appears to be
original, 3/4hp 3 phase and works fine. One grease gun style oil fill port
is missing, can easily replace that though. Everything spins up, and
there's no horrible sounds, although it does sound like a big fast machine
at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete
with a vise, what might be an angle grinder or file and other prying
tools. The jaws and shell seem OK. I tried to pound out the arbor with no
luck. I finally drilled into it with a 1/8 drill bit, then 5/16ths then
3/8ths by hand to try to push it out with a punch. Somehow that got stuck
in the hole and I had to cut the arbor off to get the punch out. I'll try
to thread the hole and pop the stub of the arbor out with a bolt and stack
of washers. The arbor is a super old looking and real Morse, that doesn't
appear to be hardened at all, anywhere, considering I was able to hand
drill into it as well as cut it off with a hacksaw. Was this normal back
in the day?

As for the bent spindle, the last owner did something and it appears to
run true at this point. It's a done deal now, so we'll see if there are
any surprises when I take the quill out to look at the spindle itself.

This it is my first "large" machine that weighs more than I do.


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Default Clausing drill press followup

On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from
500 to 4000 RPM as it's the fast version. Serial numbers and styling
indicate it's from between 1962 and 1965. The motor appears to be
original, 3/4hp 3 phase and works fine. One grease gun style oil fill port
is missing, can easily replace that though. Everything spins up, and
there's no horrible sounds, although it does sound like a big fast machine
at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete
with a vise, what might be an angle grinder or file and other prying
tools. The jaws and shell seem OK. I tried to pound out the arbor with no
luck. I finally drilled into it with a 1/8 drill bit, then 5/16ths then
3/8ths by hand to try to push it out with a punch. Somehow that got stuck
in the hole and I had to cut the arbor off to get the punch out. I'll try
to thread the hole and pop the stub of the arbor out with a bolt and stack
of washers. The arbor is a super old looking and real Morse, that doesn't
appear to be hardened at all, anywhere, considering I was able to hand
drill into it as well as cut it off with a hacksaw. Was this normal back
in the day?

As for the bent spindle, the last owner did something and it appears to
run true at this point. It's a done deal now, so we'll see if there are
any surprises when I take the quill out to look at the spindle itself.

This it is my first "large" machine that weighs more than I do.

How are you powering it? Rotary Phase converter or VFD? They are a
prime candidate for a cheap VFD off Ebay. But buy a 1 or 1.5 hp
vfd..it wont run out of steam on the high and low ends.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke
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Default Clausing drill press followup

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from
500 to 4000 RPM as it's the fast version. Serial numbers and styling
indicate it's from between 1962 and 1965. The motor appears to be
original, 3/4hp 3 phase and works fine. One grease gun style oil fill port
is missing, can easily replace that though. Everything spins up, and
there's no horrible sounds, although it does sound like a big fast machine
at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete
with a vise, what might be an angle grinder or file and other prying
tools. The jaws and shell seem OK. I tried to pound out the arbor with no
luck. I finally drilled into it with a 1/8 drill bit, then 5/16ths then
3/8ths by hand to try to push it out with a punch. Somehow that got stuck
in the hole and I had to cut the arbor off to get the punch out. I'll try
to thread the hole and pop the stub of the arbor out with a bolt and stack
of washers. The arbor is a super old looking and real Morse, that doesn't
appear to be hardened at all, anywhere, considering I was able to hand
drill into it as well as cut it off with a hacksaw. Was this normal back
in the day?

As for the bent spindle, the last owner did something and it appears to
run true at this point. It's a done deal now, so we'll see if there are
any surprises when I take the quill out to look at the spindle itself.

This it is my first "large" machine that weighs more than I do.

How are you powering it? Rotary Phase converter or VFD? They are a
prime candidate for a cheap VFD off Ebay. But buy a 1 or 1.5 hp
vfd..it wont run out of steam on the high and low ends.


The space I'm moving into has 3 phase power. The test run was with
alligator clips into a disconnect box on the wall. I will have to run 3
phase over to "my" corner or fish out the strange wiring that's in place
now and retrofit.


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Default Clausing drill press followup

On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 19:11:03 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from
500 to 4000 RPM as it's the fast version. Serial numbers and styling
indicate it's from between 1962 and 1965. The motor appears to be
original, 3/4hp 3 phase and works fine. One grease gun style oil fill port
is missing, can easily replace that though. Everything spins up, and
there's no horrible sounds, although it does sound like a big fast machine
at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete
with a vise, what might be an angle grinder or file and other prying
tools. The jaws and shell seem OK. I tried to pound out the arbor with no
luck. I finally drilled into it with a 1/8 drill bit, then 5/16ths then
3/8ths by hand to try to push it out with a punch. Somehow that got stuck
in the hole and I had to cut the arbor off to get the punch out. I'll try
to thread the hole and pop the stub of the arbor out with a bolt and stack
of washers. The arbor is a super old looking and real Morse, that doesn't
appear to be hardened at all, anywhere, considering I was able to hand
drill into it as well as cut it off with a hacksaw. Was this normal back
in the day?

As for the bent spindle, the last owner did something and it appears to
run true at this point. It's a done deal now, so we'll see if there are
any surprises when I take the quill out to look at the spindle itself.

This it is my first "large" machine that weighs more than I do.

How are you powering it? Rotary Phase converter or VFD? They are a
prime candidate for a cheap VFD off Ebay. But buy a 1 or 1.5 hp
vfd..it wont run out of steam on the high and low ends.


The space I'm moving into has 3 phase power. The test run was with
alligator clips into a disconnect box on the wall. I will have to run 3
phase over to "my" corner or fish out the strange wiring that's in place
now and retrofit.


It will be very comfortable with a 15 amp breaker as is.

Glad to see you arent having to make your own 3ph as I have to do.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke
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Default Clausing drill press followup

On Wednesday, March 4, 2015 at 2:11:11 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from
500 to 4000 RPM as it's the fast version. Serial numbers and styling
indicate it's from between 1962 and 1965. The motor appears to be
original, 3/4hp 3 phase and works fine. One grease gun style oil fill port
is missing, can easily replace that though. Everything spins up, and
there's no horrible sounds, although it does sound like a big fast machine
at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete
with a vise, what might be an angle grinder or file and other prying
tools. The jaws and shell seem OK. I tried to pound out the arbor with no
luck. I finally drilled into it with a 1/8 drill bit, then 5/16ths then
3/8ths by hand to try to push it out with a punch. Somehow that got stuck
in the hole and I had to cut the arbor off to get the punch out. I'll try
to thread the hole and pop the stub of the arbor out with a bolt and stack
of washers. The arbor is a super old looking and real Morse, that doesn't
appear to be hardened at all, anywhere, considering I was able to hand
drill into it as well as cut it off with a hacksaw. Was this normal back
in the day?

As for the bent spindle, the last owner did something and it appears to
run true at this point. It's a done deal now, so we'll see if there are
any surprises when I take the quill out to look at the spindle itself.

This it is my first "large" machine that weighs more than I do.

How are you powering it? Rotary Phase converter or VFD? They are a
prime candidate for a cheap VFD off Ebay. But buy a 1 or 1.5 hp
vfd..it wont run out of steam on the high and low ends.


The space I'm moving into has 3 phase power. The test run was
with alligator clips into a disconnect box on the wall. I will
have to run 3 phase over to "my" corner or fish out the strange
wiring that's in place now and retrofit.


Its ashame that its sometimes tough to go by the previous occupants' prints.


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Default Clausing drill press followup

On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from
500 to 4000 RPM as it's the fast version. Serial numbers and styling
indicate it's from between 1962 and 1965. The motor appears to be
original, 3/4hp 3 phase and works fine. One grease gun style oil fill port
is missing, can easily replace that though. Everything spins up, and
there's no horrible sounds, although it does sound like a big fast machine
at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete
with a vise, what might be an angle grinder or file and other prying
tools. The jaws and shell seem OK. I tried to pound out the arbor with no
luck. I finally drilled into it with a 1/8 drill bit, then 5/16ths then
3/8ths by hand to try to push it out with a punch. Somehow that got stuck
in the hole and I had to cut the arbor off to get the punch out. I'll try
to thread the hole and pop the stub of the arbor out with a bolt and stack
of washers. The arbor is a super old looking and real Morse, that doesn't
appear to be hardened at all, anywhere, considering I was able to hand
drill into it as well as cut it off with a hacksaw. Was this normal back
in the day?

As for the bent spindle, the last owner did something and it appears to
run true at this point. It's a done deal now, so we'll see if there are
any surprises when I take the quill out to look at the spindle itself.

This it is my first "large" machine that weighs more than I do.


At this point on the arbor...drill and tap for a 3/8-16 thread and put
in a GOOD quality bolt and a piece of 3/8 plate..and pick up a "pickle
fork" from MSC. There are right ways and wrong ways..and you have
just started coming up on the fork in that road.

Tie rod end pickle fork may work as well.

Read the articles below..before going any farther!!

https://www.google.com/search?q=pick...utf-8&oe=utf-8


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke
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Default Clausing drill press followup

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from
500 to 4000 RPM as it's the fast version. Serial numbers and styling
indicate it's from between 1962 and 1965. The motor appears to be
original, 3/4hp 3 phase and works fine. One grease gun style oil fill port
is missing, can easily replace that though. Everything spins up, and
there's no horrible sounds, although it does sound like a big fast machine
at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete
with a vise, what might be an angle grinder or file and other prying
tools. The jaws and shell seem OK. I tried to pound out the arbor with no
luck. I finally drilled into it with a 1/8 drill bit, then 5/16ths then
3/8ths by hand to try to push it out with a punch. Somehow that got stuck
in the hole and I had to cut the arbor off to get the punch out. I'll try
to thread the hole and pop the stub of the arbor out with a bolt and stack
of washers. The arbor is a super old looking and real Morse, that doesn't
appear to be hardened at all, anywhere, considering I was able to hand
drill into it as well as cut it off with a hacksaw. Was this normal back
in the day?

As for the bent spindle, the last owner did something and it appears to
run true at this point. It's a done deal now, so we'll see if there are
any surprises when I take the quill out to look at the spindle itself.

This it is my first "large" machine that weighs more than I do.


At this point on the arbor...drill and tap for a 3/8-16 thread and put
in a GOOD quality bolt and a piece of 3/8 plate..and pick up a "pickle
fork" from MSC. There are right ways and wrong ways..and you have
just started coming up on the fork in that road.

Tie rod end pickle fork may work as well.

Read the articles below..before going any farther!!

https://www.google.com/search?q=pick...utf-8&oe=utf-8


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke


Could also run a bead of weld inside the hole he has. The heat would
draw in the steel and free the taper.

--
Steve W.
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Default Clausing drill press followup

On Wed, 04 Mar 2015 14:30:28 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from
500 to 4000 RPM as it's the fast version. Serial numbers and styling
indicate it's from between 1962 and 1965. The motor appears to be
original, 3/4hp 3 phase and works fine. One grease gun style oil fill port
is missing, can easily replace that though. Everything spins up, and
there's no horrible sounds, although it does sound like a big fast machine
at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete
with a vise, what might be an angle grinder or file and other prying
tools. The jaws and shell seem OK. I tried to pound out the arbor with no
luck. I finally drilled into it with a 1/8 drill bit, then 5/16ths then
3/8ths by hand to try to push it out with a punch. Somehow that got stuck
in the hole and I had to cut the arbor off to get the punch out. I'll try
to thread the hole and pop the stub of the arbor out with a bolt and stack
of washers. The arbor is a super old looking and real Morse, that doesn't
appear to be hardened at all, anywhere, considering I was able to hand
drill into it as well as cut it off with a hacksaw. Was this normal back
in the day?

As for the bent spindle, the last owner did something and it appears to
run true at this point. It's a done deal now, so we'll see if there are
any surprises when I take the quill out to look at the spindle itself.

This it is my first "large" machine that weighs more than I do.


At this point on the arbor...drill and tap for a 3/8-16 thread and put
in a GOOD quality bolt and a piece of 3/8 plate..and pick up a "pickle
fork" from MSC. There are right ways and wrong ways..and you have
just started coming up on the fork in that road.

Tie rod end pickle fork may work as well.

Read the articles below..before going any farther!!

https://www.google.com/search?q=pick...utf-8&oe=utf-8


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke


Could also run a bead of weld inside the hole he has. The heat would
draw in the steel and free the taper.


True indeed..but thats one of the "last acts of desperation" because
we dont know his skill as a welder.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke
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Default Clausing drill press followup

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 04 Mar 2015 14:30:28 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from
500 to 4000 RPM as it's the fast version. Serial numbers and styling
indicate it's from between 1962 and 1965. The motor appears to be
original, 3/4hp 3 phase and works fine. One grease gun style oil fill port
is missing, can easily replace that though. Everything spins up, and
there's no horrible sounds, although it does sound like a big fast machine
at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete
with a vise, what might be an angle grinder or file and other prying
tools. The jaws and shell seem OK. I tried to pound out the arbor with no
luck. I finally drilled into it with a 1/8 drill bit, then 5/16ths then
3/8ths by hand to try to push it out with a punch. Somehow that got stuck
in the hole and I had to cut the arbor off to get the punch out. I'll try
to thread the hole and pop the stub of the arbor out with a bolt and stack
of washers. The arbor is a super old looking and real Morse, that doesn't
appear to be hardened at all, anywhere, considering I was able to hand
drill into it as well as cut it off with a hacksaw. Was this normal back
in the day?

As for the bent spindle, the last owner did something and it appears to
run true at this point. It's a done deal now, so we'll see if there are
any surprises when I take the quill out to look at the spindle itself.

This it is my first "large" machine that weighs more than I do.


At this point on the arbor...drill and tap for a 3/8-16 thread and put
in a GOOD quality bolt and a piece of 3/8 plate..and pick up a "pickle
fork" from MSC. There are right ways and wrong ways..and you have
just started coming up on the fork in that road.

Tie rod end pickle fork may work as well.

Read the articles below..before going any farther!!

https://www.google.com/search?q=pick...utf-8&oe=utf-8


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke


Could also run a bead of weld inside the hole he has. The heat would
draw in the steel and free the taper.


True indeed..but thats one of the "last acts of desperation" because
we dont know his skill as a welder.


There's no way I could lay a bead inside a 3/8" dia hole an inch deep.


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Default Clausing drill press followup

On Thu, 5 Mar 2015 00:34:11 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 04 Mar 2015 14:30:28 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from
500 to 4000 RPM as it's the fast version. Serial numbers and styling
indicate it's from between 1962 and 1965. The motor appears to be
original, 3/4hp 3 phase and works fine. One grease gun style oil fill port
is missing, can easily replace that though. Everything spins up, and
there's no horrible sounds, although it does sound like a big fast machine
at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete
with a vise, what might be an angle grinder or file and other prying
tools. The jaws and shell seem OK. I tried to pound out the arbor with no
luck. I finally drilled into it with a 1/8 drill bit, then 5/16ths then
3/8ths by hand to try to push it out with a punch. Somehow that got stuck
in the hole and I had to cut the arbor off to get the punch out. I'll try
to thread the hole and pop the stub of the arbor out with a bolt and stack
of washers. The arbor is a super old looking and real Morse, that doesn't
appear to be hardened at all, anywhere, considering I was able to hand
drill into it as well as cut it off with a hacksaw. Was this normal back
in the day?

As for the bent spindle, the last owner did something and it appears to
run true at this point. It's a done deal now, so we'll see if there are
any surprises when I take the quill out to look at the spindle itself.

This it is my first "large" machine that weighs more than I do.


At this point on the arbor...drill and tap for a 3/8-16 thread and put
in a GOOD quality bolt and a piece of 3/8 plate..and pick up a "pickle
fork" from MSC. There are right ways and wrong ways..and you have
just started coming up on the fork in that road.

Tie rod end pickle fork may work as well.

Read the articles below..before going any farther!!

https://www.google.com/search?q=pick...utf-8&oe=utf-8


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

Could also run a bead of weld inside the hole he has. The heat would
draw in the steel and free the taper.


True indeed..but thats one of the "last acts of desperation" because
we dont know his skill as a welder.


There's no way I could lay a bead inside a 3/8" dia hole an inch deep.

Sure you can. You simply use a stick welder and stick that sucker up
in the hole there and fire the bitch off!

Actually..thats pretty much what you do do. But fancier.

(Grin)

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke


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Default Clausing drill press followup

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from
500 to 4000 RPM as it's the fast version. Serial numbers and styling
indicate it's from between 1962 and 1965. The motor appears to be
original, 3/4hp 3 phase and works fine. One grease gun style oil fill port
is missing, can easily replace that though. Everything spins up, and
there's no horrible sounds, although it does sound like a big fast machine
at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete
with a vise, what might be an angle grinder or file and other prying
tools. The jaws and shell seem OK. I tried to pound out the arbor with no
luck. I finally drilled into it with a 1/8 drill bit, then 5/16ths then
3/8ths by hand to try to push it out with a punch. Somehow that got stuck
in the hole and I had to cut the arbor off to get the punch out. I'll try
to thread the hole and pop the stub of the arbor out with a bolt and stack
of washers. The arbor is a super old looking and real Morse, that doesn't
appear to be hardened at all, anywhere, considering I was able to hand
drill into it as well as cut it off with a hacksaw. Was this normal back
in the day?

As for the bent spindle, the last owner did something and it appears to
run true at this point. It's a done deal now, so we'll see if there are
any surprises when I take the quill out to look at the spindle itself.

This it is my first "large" machine that weighs more than I do.


At this point on the arbor...drill and tap for a 3/8-16 thread and put
in a GOOD quality bolt and a piece of 3/8 plate..and pick up a "pickle
fork" from MSC. There are right ways and wrong ways..and you have
just started coming up on the fork in that road.

Tie rod end pickle fork may work as well.

Read the articles below..before going any farther!!

https://www.google.com/search?q=pick...utf-8&oe=utf-8


The condition of the arbor was too poor to use wedges or any type of
prying tool anymore. I really can't determine what the last person was
even trying to really do from all the marks and worn off sections. The
end chuck body itself was pretty chewed up. I'm going to use a
7/16-14 tap (it fits the slighly oversized 3/8 hole) and bolt to try to
pull the JT33 stub of the arbor out. If I can locate my coping saw I
might just try to cut into the shell of the arbor to relieve the tension a
bit. I'm still surprised at how soft the old Morse arbor really is.





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Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:md7q0q
:

I'm still surprised at how soft the old Morse arbor really is.


Since it's only used in force in one direction, and because MT arbors
sometimes seem to just 'fall out' without much provocation, I would presume
that a soft arbor in a hardened socket would hold better.

LLoyd
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On Wed, 04 Mar 2015 14:47:51 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:md7q0q
:

I'm still surprised at how soft the old Morse arbor really is.


Since it's only used in force in one direction, and because MT arbors
sometimes seem to just 'fall out' without much provocation, I would presume
that a soft arbor in a hardened socket would hold better.

LLoyd


I don't know the story on this, but I read (30 years ago) that Morse
taper tool holders are (always? sometimes?) supplied soft. Then there
was something about heat-treating them.

I wish I remembered more, but that much I recall.

--
Ed Huntress
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Ed Huntress fired this volley in
:

I don't know the story on this, but I read (30 years ago) that Morse
taper tool holders are (always? sometimes?) supplied soft. Then there
was something about heat-treating them.

I wish I remembered more, but that much I recall.


I don't know how you'd successfully harden them without also having to re-
grind them. They'd change dimensions, one way or another.

Lloyd
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Does the Morse taper have a threaded rod coming down from the top ?
Large Morse often do and those I use in my lathe and the R8 in my mill
have bolts that hold the taper in.

Martin

On 3/4/2015 3:39 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Wed, 04 Mar 2015 14:47:51 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:md7q0q
:

I'm still surprised at how soft the old Morse arbor really is.


Since it's only used in force in one direction, and because MT arbors
sometimes seem to just 'fall out' without much provocation, I would presume
that a soft arbor in a hardened socket would hold better.

LLoyd


I don't know the story on this, but I read (30 years ago) that Morse
taper tool holders are (always? sometimes?) supplied soft. Then there
was something about heat-treating them.

I wish I remembered more, but that much I recall.



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Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:md7q0q
:

I'm still surprised at how soft the old Morse arbor really is.


Since it's only used in force in one direction, and because MT arbors
sometimes seem to just 'fall out' without much provocation, I would presume
that a soft arbor in a hardened socket would hold better.


Was there a change in arbor technology at some point? All the new arbors I
see listed brag about hardenened or even fully hardened- I don't see any
unhardenened ones for sale anywhere. The generic and even Rohm MT2 to JT33
ones are only $8 with the Jacobs ones at about $22.

If unhardened steel is really fine, I'd be tempted to make my own arbor.
The JT33 side could be turned from a shaft and mounted in the chuck body.
The Albrecht chuck body does fit in Sherline lathe and from there the
morse 2 taper could be turned. In theory it would be as straight and
concentric as you could get as long as the arbor isn't removed from the
chuck.


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Cydrome Leader fired this volley in
:

If unhardened steel is really fine, I'd be tempted to make my own
arbor. The JT33 side could be turned from a shaft and mounted in the
chuck body. The Albrecht chuck body does fit in Sherline lathe and
from there the morse 2 taper could be turned. In theory it would be as
straight and concentric as you could get as long as the arbor isn't
removed from the chuck.


You gonna turn accurate tapers on a Sherline?
Lloyd
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On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 22:13:13 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:md7q0q
:

I'm still surprised at how soft the old Morse arbor really is.


Since it's only used in force in one direction, and because MT arbors
sometimes seem to just 'fall out' without much provocation, I would presume
that a soft arbor in a hardened socket would hold better.


Was there a change in arbor technology at some point? All the new arbors I
see listed brag about hardenened or even fully hardened- I don't see any
unhardenened ones for sale anywhere. The generic and even Rohm MT2 to JT33
ones are only $8 with the Jacobs ones at about $22.

If unhardened steel is really fine, I'd be tempted to make my own arbor.
The JT33 side could be turned from a shaft and mounted in the chuck body.
The Albrecht chuck body does fit in Sherline lathe and from there the
morse 2 taper could be turned. In theory it would be as straight and
concentric as you could get as long as the arbor isn't removed from the
chuck.


How does your Sherline do with the tailstock set over that far? I'd
think you were pushing it, unless you have a very good taper
attachment.

Here's a soft, blank Morse taper arbor:

http://www.collistoolholder.com/cgi-...yp=CAT_9_TYP_I

--
Ed Huntress
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"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message
...
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in
news:md7q0q
:

I'm still surprised at how soft the old Morse arbor really is.


Since it's only used in force in one direction, and because MT
arbors
sometimes seem to just 'fall out' without much provocation, I would
presume
that a soft arbor in a hardened socket would hold better.


Was there a change in arbor technology at some point? All the new
arbors I
see listed brag about hardenened or even fully hardened- I don't see
any
unhardenened ones for sale anywhere. The generic and even Rohm MT2
to JT33
ones are only $8 with the Jacobs ones at about $22.

If unhardened steel is really fine, I'd be tempted to make my own
arbor.
The JT33 side could be turned from a shaft and mounted in the chuck
body.
The Albrecht chuck body does fit in Sherline lathe and from there
the
morse 2 taper could be turned. In theory it would be as straight and
concentric as you could get as long as the arbor isn't removed from
the
chuck.


Test your idea on a tapered arbor with a dial indicator in the
toolpost. It ain't easy.

I have similar sizes of Albrecht and Jacobs Ball-Bearing chucks, and
prefer the Jacobs.

-jsw


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On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 20:30:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from
500 to 4000 RPM as it's the fast version. Serial numbers and styling
indicate it's from between 1962 and 1965. The motor appears to be
original, 3/4hp 3 phase and works fine. One grease gun style oil fill port
is missing, can easily replace that though. Everything spins up, and
there's no horrible sounds, although it does sound like a big fast machine
at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete
with a vise, what might be an angle grinder or file and other prying
tools. The jaws and shell seem OK. I tried to pound out the arbor with no
luck. I finally drilled into it with a 1/8 drill bit, then 5/16ths then
3/8ths by hand to try to push it out with a punch. Somehow that got stuck
in the hole and I had to cut the arbor off to get the punch out. I'll try
to thread the hole and pop the stub of the arbor out with a bolt and stack
of washers. The arbor is a super old looking and real Morse, that doesn't
appear to be hardened at all, anywhere, considering I was able to hand
drill into it as well as cut it off with a hacksaw. Was this normal back
in the day?

As for the bent spindle, the last owner did something and it appears to
run true at this point. It's a done deal now, so we'll see if there are
any surprises when I take the quill out to look at the spindle itself.

This it is my first "large" machine that weighs more than I do.


At this point on the arbor...drill and tap for a 3/8-16 thread and put
in a GOOD quality bolt and a piece of 3/8 plate..and pick up a "pickle
fork" from MSC. There are right ways and wrong ways..and you have
just started coming up on the fork in that road.

Tie rod end pickle fork may work as well.

Read the articles below..before going any farther!!

https://www.google.com/search?q=pick...utf-8&oe=utf-8


The condition of the arbor was too poor to use wedges or any type of
prying tool anymore. I really can't determine what the last person was
even trying to really do from all the marks and worn off sections. The
end chuck body itself was pretty chewed up. I'm going to use a
7/16-14 tap (it fits the slighly oversized 3/8 hole) and bolt to try to
pull the JT33 stub of the arbor out. If I can locate my coping saw I
might just try to cut into the shell of the arbor to relieve the tension a
bit. I'm still surprised at how soft the old Morse arbor really is.


If..if you have enough stub sticking out of the spindle..you
could..could try drilling a 1/4 or 5/16" cross hole just below the
spindle and then inserting a good quality dowel pin and then use a
wedge between the dowel pin and the spindle nose. Or a pickle fork.
Shrug

When you get it out..I can send you some arbors. Ive got a ton of
them.

Gunner






"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke


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On 2015-03-04, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 20:30:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from


[ ... ]

at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete


[ ... ]

https://www.google.com/search?q=pick...utf-8&oe=utf-8


The condition of the arbor was too poor to use wedges or any type of
prying tool anymore. I really can't determine what the last person was
even trying to really do from all the marks and worn off sections. The
end chuck body itself was pretty chewed up. I'm going to use a
7/16-14 tap (it fits the slighly oversized 3/8 hole) and bolt to try to
pull the JT33 stub of the arbor out. If I can locate my coping saw I
might just try to cut into the shell of the arbor to relieve the tension a
bit. I'm still surprised at how soft the old Morse arbor really is.


If..if you have enough stub sticking out of the spindle..you
could..could try drilling a 1/4 or 5/16" cross hole just below the
spindle and then inserting a good quality dowel pin and then use a
wedge between the dowel pin and the spindle nose. Or a pickle fork.
Shrug


As I read it above, he is trying to get the arbor (remains) out
of the chuck, not the spindle.

When you get it out..I can send you some arbors. Ive got a ton of
them.


He will probably find that quite useful, once he has the stub
out of the chuck,

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
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On 5 Mar 2015 02:31:46 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2015-03-04, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 20:30:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from


[ ... ]

at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete


[ ... ]

https://www.google.com/search?q=pick...utf-8&oe=utf-8

The condition of the arbor was too poor to use wedges or any type of
prying tool anymore. I really can't determine what the last person was
even trying to really do from all the marks and worn off sections. The
end chuck body itself was pretty chewed up. I'm going to use a
7/16-14 tap (it fits the slighly oversized 3/8 hole) and bolt to try to
pull the JT33 stub of the arbor out. If I can locate my coping saw I
might just try to cut into the shell of the arbor to relieve the tension a
bit. I'm still surprised at how soft the old Morse arbor really is.


If..if you have enough stub sticking out of the spindle..you
could..could try drilling a 1/4 or 5/16" cross hole just below the
spindle and then inserting a good quality dowel pin and then use a
wedge between the dowel pin and the spindle nose. Or a pickle fork.
Shrug


As I read it above, he is trying to get the arbor (remains) out
of the chuck, not the spindle.


Ah..the chuck is on the end of the arbor IN the spindle..else its like
no drill press Ive ever seen before. And I work on a lot of them


When you get it out..I can send you some arbors. Ive got a ton of
them.


He will probably find that quite useful, once he has the stub
out of the chuck,

Enjoy,
DoN.


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke
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DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2015-03-04, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 20:30:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from


[ ... ]

at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete


[ ... ]

https://www.google.com/search?q=pick...utf-8&oe=utf-8

The condition of the arbor was too poor to use wedges or any type of
prying tool anymore. I really can't determine what the last person was
even trying to really do from all the marks and worn off sections. The
end chuck body itself was pretty chewed up. I'm going to use a
7/16-14 tap (it fits the slighly oversized 3/8 hole) and bolt to try to
pull the JT33 stub of the arbor out. If I can locate my coping saw I
might just try to cut into the shell of the arbor to relieve the tension a
bit. I'm still surprised at how soft the old Morse arbor really is.


If..if you have enough stub sticking out of the spindle..you
could..could try drilling a 1/4 or 5/16" cross hole just below the
spindle and then inserting a good quality dowel pin and then use a
wedge between the dowel pin and the spindle nose. Or a pickle fork.
Shrug


As I read it above, he is trying to get the arbor (remains) out
of the chuck, not the spindle.


Correct. The spindle seems ok at this point, and separate from the chuck.
Not having access to some rather basic tools in the right place for this
sort of work is making thinks take some time.
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On 2015-03-04, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I went ahead and grabbed the Clausing 15" drill press. It's an olive green
16VT-1 series one with the variable speed belt contraption, and goes from


[ ... ]

at the highest speed setting. It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete
with a vise, what might be an angle grinder or file and other prying


[ ... ]

At this point on the arbor...drill and tap for a 3/8-16 thread and put
in a GOOD quality bolt and a piece of 3/8 plate..and pick up a "pickle
fork" from MSC. There are right ways and wrong ways..and you have
just started coming up on the fork in that road.


Or -- if you have one of the Harbor Freight hydraulic presses,
you can unscrew the pusher-platform for the jaws (you already have the
shell off and the jaws out, don't you?), and find a pushrod which will
go through the threaded body, ideally with a sleeve of aluminum, so you
don't press against the sides of the threads with the steel of the rod
if it bends, and just pump until it pops out. Be sure to have something
like a box with crumpled newspaper below it to catch the arbor stub, so
it does not go bouncing around the ship, or into you.

You'll probably have to do the drill and tap to give something
for the rod to push against, since you cut off the bottom to give access
for driving out the push rod which got stuck.

Tie rod end pickle fork may work as well.


If there is enough shoulder for the fork to work against. To
start with, the special Jacobs fork pairs (two thin wedges) for popping
out arbors would have been a better choice. I've got all four sizes
ready for various needs, but sometimes the arbor body it too close to
the Jacobs taper diameter for one of those to work.

Read the articles below..before going any farther!!

https://www.google.com/search?q=pick...utf-8&oe=utf-8


Enjoy,
DoN.

--
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Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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COngratulations, not only it is your first big machine, but it is also
a very good one.

i


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Ignoramus23649 wrote:
COngratulations, not only it is your first big machine, but it is also
a very good one.


thanks. I finally got some space to make a sort-of-shop.
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On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Came across some Albrecht 130 threads that may be of
help/interest.
http://tinyurl.com/pybc65q {very good youtube how-to}
http://tinyurl.com/mas7xyz
http://tinyurl.com/nvnsnmw {be setting down}
http://tinyurl.com/kztutvp
http://tinyurl.com/pnq43od {cut-away}
http://tinyurl.com/q388vqg {disassembled}
http://tinyurl.com/oafepwu {you-tube rebuild 1 0f 2 parts}


--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"
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On Thu, 05 Mar 2015 19:37:22 -0600, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

It came with a fixer-upper Albrecht 130
chuck from some other machine.

Came across some Albrecht 130 threads that may be of
help/interest.
http://tinyurl.com/pybc65q {very good youtube how-to}


Nice step-by-step, but he does make a critical error at around 30:30
when he greases the screw threads. Lubricating the thread will make
the chuck feel springy and cause it to release too easily. If you find
the chuck releases when backing out a tap while power tapping (for a
reasonable size tap), oil or grease on that thread is likely the
problem.

The last page of this catalog has the short version of the repair
procedure.
http://www.royalprod.com/img/categor...recht_Full.pdf

--
Ned Simmons
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On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 18:06:35 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete
with a vise, what might be an angle grinder or file and other prying
tools. The jaws and shell seem OK. I tried to pound out the arbor with no
luck. I finally drilled into it with a 1/8 drill bit, then 5/16ths then
3/8ths by hand to try to push it out with a punch. Somehow that got stuck
in the hole and I had to cut the arbor off to get the punch out. I'll try
to thread the hole and pop the stub of the arbor out with a bolt and stack
of washers. The arbor is a super old looking and real Morse, that doesn't
appear to be hardened at all, anywhere, considering I was able to hand
drill into it as well as cut it off with a hacksaw. Was this normal back
in the day?

================
Just a thought but Albrecht makes an integral shank chuck.
Does this one have the groove in the shank for the removal
wedges? http://tinyurl.com/ma9j6so
--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"
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