As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.
I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.

On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.
Any suggestions?
alofsax

fired this volley in
:

On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but
when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350. Any
suggestions? alofsax


Buy a good set of cobalt steel split-point bits from a reputable
supplier.

There's no "cheap way out", but in the long run, good drills are less
expensive than no-name Chinese bits with goldish coloring on them so they
look like "cobalt steel".

Swallow hard, write the cost off to "future success", then FAITHFULLY
replace any bits you smutch up.

Once you've defrayed the cost of a good set, it costs little to keep it
up.

A good-quality U.S.-made 115 bit set will cost you upwards of $500 (or
more), but will make you very (very!) happy with their quality -- the
alloy, size, roundness, consistency of grind, and coencentricity of the
points are what counts, and you just ARE NOT going to get that quality
for much less money.

Bottom line is: You get what you pay for. (swallow even harder when you
have to buy a complete set for each of four workstations! G)


Lloyd

On Saturday, March 22, 2014 8:19:55 PM UTC-4, wrote:
As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.

I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.

Any suggestions?

alofsax

It depends on what you are going to drill, how much drilling you do and why you are drilling. If you are drilling and then tapping , you may need number drills. Depends on the size of the tap. Cobalt steel can take more heat than M2 tool steel. But if you are not doing a lot of drilling of hard things, you can get by with less.

Tell us a bit more about what you are doing and you will get better advice. Are you using a hand held drill or a drill press? Are you drilling aluminum or steel?

Dan

On Saturday, March 22, 2014 5:19:55 PM UTC-7, wrote:
As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.

I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.



On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.

Any suggestions?

alofsax



I prefer to use 135 degree split point cobalt stub drills (sometimes called screw machine drills) as they are less prone to walking and they hold up much better when drilling alloys. If I'm working to +/- .005 positioning I don't bother to use a spot drill as this saves time.

I would not buy Chinese drills. When it comes to drills, you get what you pay for. Even expensive drills are sometimes sharpened wrong. I check all new drills or ones I resharpen by drilling a hole in a piece of scrap and then checking with a gauge pin for fit.

On 2014-03-23, wrote:
As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.

I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186
drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.

Don't bet on *any* common drill bit being that good. If you
want precision, drill a little undersized, and then use a reamer to
enlarge the hole to the desired diameter.

But there are things which can effect how close the hole is. In
particular, balanced sharpening improves your chances. (I've seen
Chinese bits which had one flute perhaps 15% longer than the other.) (No
doubt, they also make good drill bits, but the importers are not willing
to pay the extra for good well sharpened ones.

And the metal in cheap sets is also questionable. Some drills,
in their first use in steel, will wind up with a reverse spiral -- they
flex that much in use.

And others have the ends ground with reverse clearance.

On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but
when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.

Maybe the same range of sizes, but not the same quality of drill
bits. (Nor likely the same quality of drill index, either. :-(

Any suggestions?

Look at places like MSC, or McMaster Carr (both have on-line
presence). Sometimes MSC will sell dirt cheap sets, but if you are
willing to pay, you can get really good bits. Look for "Made in USA",
and ideally some brand like Cleveland.

When I want to buy good sets, I look for the following:

1) "Split points" (a special sharpening pattern which makes it
less likely that the point will walk when starting, and which
requires less force for drilling a given sized hole, compared to
the more common chisel point style.

2) Cobalt steel. Tougher and more wear resistant.

3) If I don't need the longer flutes of the jobber's length
bits, I'll go for the somewhat shorter "Screw Machine Length",
which have shorter flutes, and don't flex as much as a result.

I wish that I had the 115 bit sets (letter, number, and
fractional size in a single index) with the split points, but
that set was a bit too expensive for a hobby user. I do have
the set, but standard jobber's length, and have a separate set of
number size in screw machine length, with the split points and
the cobalt steel. For the other set, I buy split point in
individual ones for the sizes I use most commonly and which I
will wear out most quickly. Those would be 1/4" and 1/2" sizes.

Here is an example of a 115 bit set from MSC -- Made by Hertel
(a good European manufacturer) -- MSC part number 73285397,
$301.34 for the set, jobber length.

There is another set for about half that, "Interstate" brand,
which I would not bother with.

Hertel in Cobalt steel, $724.22, split point. This set I would
like to have, but I can't see spending that for it.

Chicago-Latrobe: $672.41 HSS with split point

Cleveland: $1,145.03, Cobalt steel with Split Point.

Here is that one -- you can search for the others:

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/08839607

And whichever set you get, if you want the maximum choice in
sizes, you will want to add metric drills (typically two sets -- 1-6mm
in 0.1mm steps, and 6-12mm in 0.1mm steps.)

One trick to get a drill bit to drill closer to size is to drill
a pilot hole a little bigger than the thickness of the web, and then go
to the proper size bit.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Sat, 22 Mar 2014 17:19:55 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.
I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.

On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.
Any suggestions?
alofsax
-------------------------------------
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=30&PMCTLG=00
http://www.wttool.com/index/page/pro..._shopping=true
http://tool.wttool.com/search?w=drill+set&x=0&y=0
http://www.travers.com/Search/Search...=drill%20se t
http://www.travers.com/29-piece-115-piece-jobbers-length-twist-drill-sets?Category=UserSearch=drill%20set||UserSearch=b lock%20id%20318545%20and%20class%20level3%20id%202 97782
http://www.victornet.com/subdepartme...Sets/1090.html
http://www.kbctools.com/usa/Navigati....cfm?PDFPage=2
http://www.grizzly.com/products/115-...tic-Case/H8183

--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

On Saturday, March 22, 2014 10:12:41 PM UTC-7, DoN. Nichols wrote:

snip

"Don't bet on *any* common drill bit being that good. If you want precision, drill a little undersized, and then use a reamer to enlarge the hole to the desired diameter."

Bull**** and spoken like the true amateur that Nichols is. Has Nichols ever worked in a professional machine shop?

If you don't have to ream you save time. I'm in the time business. Time is money. If you know what your doing and you know how to properly sharpen drill bits and test them there is no problem holding most drilled holes to a .002 tolerance or better.

On Sat, 22 Mar 2014 17:19:55 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.
I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.

On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.
Any suggestions?
alofsax

Twist drill are not considered precision hole making tools. If you
require precise holes then you need to start thinking of reaming,
boring, internal grinding, etc.
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Sat, 22 Mar 2014 17:19:55 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.
I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.

On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.
Any suggestions?
alofsax

Not this one http://www.viatrack.ca/Misc/DRILBIT.jpg


Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see:
Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things) http://www.viatrack.ca

void _-void-_ in the obvious place



---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

"jon_banquer" wrote in message
...
On Saturday, March 22, 2014 10:12:41 PM UTC-7, DoN. Nichols wrote:

snip

"Don't bet on *any* common drill bit being that good. If you want
precision, drill a little undersized, and then use a reamer to
enlarge the hole to the desired diameter."

Bull**** and spoken like the true amateur that Nichols is. Has
Nichols ever worked in a professional machine shop?

If you don't have to ream you save time. I'm in the time business.
Time is money. If you know what your doing and you know how to
properly sharpen drill bits and test them there is no problem
holding most drilled holes to a .002 tolerance or better.


In a professional shop I could draw Chicago-Latrobe drill bits from
the stockroom and drill correspondingly accurate holes. At home where
I pay for tooling Hanson, Vermont-American and the lower end of the
MSC line have to do. I have +0.001" oversized reamers to size and
smoothly finish plain bearings.

You could buy a few sizes of ground drill rod, like 0.125, 0.250 and
0.500, and good bits and reamers to match. Tapped and clearance screw
holes don't need to be so closely sized.
jsw

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:20:52 AM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:
On Saturday, March 22, 2014 10:12:41 PM UTC-7, DoN. Nichols wrote:



"Don't bet on *any* common drill bit being that good. If you want precision, drill a little undersized, and then use a reamer to enlarge the hole to the desired diameter."


Excellent advice. Even the best drills will drill a hole a little larger if they have been resharpened by hand.


Bull**** and spoken like the true amateur that Nichols is. Has Nichols ever worked in a professional machine shop?


Has it occurred to you that Don is in the right newsgroup if he is an amatuer. This is REC.crafts.metalworking. You are looking for pro.business.metalworking.
This is a newsgroup for people that do metalworking for RECREATION.

Dan


If you don't have to ream you save time. I'm in the time business. Time is money. If you know what your doing and you know how to properly sharpen drill bits and test them there is no problem holding most drilled holes to a .002 tolerance or better.

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:38:41 AM UTC-7, wrote nothing but bull****:

"Excellent advice. Even the best drills will drill a hole a little larger if they have been resharpened by hand."

No, it's not excellent advice you ****ing moron. Neither is claiming you will drill a hole larger if a drill bit is resharpened by hand. It's advice from someone who doesn't have enough experience working in a machining job shop where time is money.

"Has it occurred to you that Don is in the right newsgroup if he is an amatuer. This is REC.crafts.metalworking. You are looking for pro.business.metalworking."

Has it occurred to you that amateur machinists can often learn from the right advise and not the wrong advise given by someone who hasn't spent years working in a machining job shop? That's a rhetorical question because it's clear you would rather have a group just filled with amateurs where advice is given that's often wrong.

You're a ****ing moron who has no interest in learning the proper and professional way to do things. How soon before you start asking for pictures of my home machine shop again?

"This is a newsgroup for people that do metalworking for RECREATION."

So this group should ignore advice from professionals who have the kind of experience you don't have, right asshole? How many more Larry Jackass's does this group need?

You're a ****ing moron with no clues and you often show it. Please add me to your kill file immediately. I don't want you to learn anything from what I post just like Nichols doesn't. I prefer it that way.

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:40:07 AM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 22 Mar 2014 17:19:55 -0700 (PDT), wrote:



As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.

I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.



On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.

Any suggestions?

alofsax



Twist drill are not considered precision hole making tools. If you

require precise holes then you need to start thinking of reaming,

boring, internal grinding, etc.

--

Cheers,



John B.


Spoken like someone who reads a textbook rather than someone who learns in a machining job shop how to use a drill to get the job done because time is money.

There is often no reason to ream or bore a hole.

On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 09:47:14 -0400, Boris Mohar
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Mar 2014 17:19:55 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.
I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.

On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.
Any suggestions?
alofsax

Not this one http://www.viatrack.ca/Misc/DRILBIT.jpg


Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see:
Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things) http://www.viatrack.ca

void _-void-_ in the obvious place



---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
Back in my apprenticeship days a "wagon jobber" came by the shop
selling some newfangled drill bit that was supposed to be able to
drill through files and springs, and do all kinds of other impossible
jobs. Very expensive. My boss was generally a real cheap-ass, but he
fell for this drill set.
The drills were a disaster.
When the jobber came by a few months later and hasked the boss what he
thought of the bits, he told the guy they were "great for drilling
arseholes in balsa-wood teddy bears".

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 12:39:05 PM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:

No, it's not excellent advice you ****ing moron. Neither is claiming you will drill a hole larger if a drill bit is resharpened by hand. It's advice from someone who doesn't have enough experience working in a machining job shop where time is money.



"Has it occurred to you that Don is in the right newsgroup if he is an amatuer. This is REC.crafts.metalworking. You are looking for pro.business.metalworking."



You're a ****ing moron who has no interest in learning the proper and professional way to do things. How soon before you start asking for pictures of my home machine shop again?


So this group should ignore advice from professionals who have the kind of experience you don't have, right asshole? How many more Larry Jackass's does this group need?



You're a ****ing moron with no clues and you often show it. Please add me to your kill file immediately. I don't want you to learn anything from what I post just like Nichols doesn't. I prefer it that way.

I am pretty sure I am a lot smarter than you are. Your advice on drills may be good for professionals , but it is not worth much for those who do metalwork for fun. To you time is money, but that is not true for everyone. If you have a mill, using short bits and not center punching is good. But for someone using a hand drill or even a drill press, using a center punch is a better way to go. Somehow I doubt that someone asking for advice on buying drills, has a mill.

If I had a kill file, you would be one of the first ones in it. But I must admit you provide a little fun with you posts. Such an ego and yet not able to understand and help anyone.

Dan

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 12:44:54 PM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:
On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:40:07 AM UTC-7, John B. wrote:




Twist drill are not considered precision hole making tools. If you



require precise holes then you need to start thinking of reaming,



boring, internal grinding, etc.



--



Cheers,







John B.





Spoken like someone who reads a textbook rather than someone who learns in a machining job shop how to use a drill to get the job done because time is money.



There is often no reason to ream or bore a hole.

Spoken like someone who can not comprehend the written word. John said "If you require precision holes". You must consider precision as being within a few thousandths. But if you are building a model engine, drilling holes is not going to hack it.

Dan

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 12:30:10 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, March 23, 2014 12:39:05 PM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:



No, it's not excellent advice you ****ing moron. Neither is claiming you will drill a hole larger if a drill bit is resharpened by hand. It's advice from someone who doesn't have enough experience working in a machining job shop where time is money.







"Has it occurred to you that Don is in the right newsgroup if he is an amatuer. This is REC.crafts.metalworking. You are looking for pro.business.metalworking."







You're a ****ing moron who has no interest in learning the proper and professional way to do things. How soon before you start asking for pictures of my home machine shop again?





So this group should ignore advice from professionals who have the kind of experience you don't have, right asshole? How many more Larry Jackass's does this group need?







You're a ****ing moron with no clues and you often show it. Please add me to your kill file immediately. I don't want you to learn anything from what I post just like Nichols doesn't. I prefer it that way.



I am pretty sure I am a lot smarter than you are. Your advice on drills may be good for professionals , but it is not worth much for those who do metalwork for fun. To you time is money, but that is not true for everyone. If you have a mill, using short bits and not center punching is good. But for someone using a hand drill or even a drill press, using a center punch is a better way to go. Somehow I doubt that someone asking for advice on buying drills, has a mill.



If I had a kill file, you would be one of the first ones in it. But I must admit you provide a little fun with you posts. Such an ego and yet not able to understand and help anyone.



Dan

I'm positive you can't machine your way out of a paper bag.

I'm positive you don't have the 20 years of machining job shop experience I have.

My posts push learning the kind of skills you don't and never will have because you won't pay the price to learn them. I'm always willing to help someone who wants to build their skill set and pay their dues. Unfortunately you're a lazy dickhead who thinks the answer is to buy more tools and that one doesn't need to develop the needed skills because they are not machining professionally. You're wrong. You're wrong frequently.

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 12:39:42 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, March 23, 2014 12:44:54 PM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:40:07 AM UTC-7, John B. wrote:









Twist drill are not considered precision hole making tools. If you







require precise holes then you need to start thinking of reaming,







boring, internal grinding, etc.







--







Cheers,















John B.











Spoken like someone who reads a textbook rather than someone who learns in a machining job shop how to use a drill to get the job done because time is money.







There is often no reason to ream or bore a hole.



Spoken like someone who can not comprehend the written word. John said "If you require precision holes". You must consider precision as being within a few thousandths. But if you are building a model engine, drilling holes is not going to hack it.



Dan


There are many places that drilling a hole in a model engine will suffice.

There are places when reaming won't suffice.

There are places when the hole must be bored.

Your blanket statement, like many of your blanket statements, fall apart like a cheap suit when closely examined.

On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 09:47:14 -0400, Boris Mohar
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Mar 2014 17:19:55 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.
I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.

On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.
Any suggestions?
alofsax

Not this one http://www.viatrack.ca/Misc/DRILBIT.jpg

I got more artistic with my cheapie billdrit.
http://tinyurl.com/nclbe56

and some more fun with metal:
http://tinyurl.com/njvvcy7

--
The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most
likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often
than not, unconsidered.
-- Andre Gide

On 3/23/2014 3:58 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 09:47:14 -0400, Boris Mohar
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Mar 2014 17:19:55 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.
I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.

On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.
Any suggestions?
alofsax

Not this one http://www.viatrack.ca/Misc/DRILBIT.jpg

I got more artistic with my cheapie billdrit.
http://tinyurl.com/nclbe56

Everybody should have many, many cheapie drill bits, saves on wear and
tear on good ones. Most jobs will suffice on these.




and some more fun with metal:
http://tinyurl.com/njvvcy7

--
The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most
likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often
than not, unconsidered.
-- Andre Gide

On 3/23/2014 3:30 PM, wrote:
On Sunday, March 23, 2014 12:39:05 PM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:

No, it's not excellent advice you ****ing moron. Neither is claiming you will drill a hole larger if a drill bit is resharpened by hand. It's advice from someone who doesn't have enough experience working in a machining job shop where time is money.



"Has it occurred to you that Don is in the right newsgroup if he is an amatuer. This is REC.crafts.metalworking. You are looking for pro.business.metalworking."



You're a ****ing moron who has no interest in learning the proper and professional way to do things. How soon before you start asking for pictures of my home machine shop again?


So this group should ignore advice from professionals who have the kind of experience you don't have, right asshole? How many more Larry Jackass's does this group need?



You're a ****ing moron with no clues and you often show it. Please add me to your kill file immediately. I don't want you to learn anything from what I post just like Nichols doesn't. I prefer it that way.

I am pretty sure I am a lot smarter than you are. Your advice on drills may be good for professionals , but it is not worth much for those who do metalwork for fun. To you time is money, but that is not true for everyone. If you have a mill, using short bits and not center punching is good. But for someone using a hand drill or even a drill press, using a center punch is a better way to go. Somehow I doubt that someone asking for advice on buying drills, has a mill.

If I had a kill file, you would be one of the first ones in it. But I must admit you provide a little fun with you posts. Such an ego and yet not able to understand and help anyone.

Dan



You're the only one that doesn't have him in the bin.

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 1:37:43 PM UTC-7, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 3/23/2014 3:30 PM, wrote:

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 12:39:05 PM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:



No, it's not excellent advice you ****ing moron. Neither is claiming you will drill a hole larger if a drill bit is resharpened by hand. It's advice from someone who doesn't have enough experience working in a machining job shop where time is money.







"Has it occurred to you that Don is in the right newsgroup if he is an amatuer. This is REC.crafts.metalworking. You are looking for pro.business.metalworking."







You're a ****ing moron who has no interest in learning the proper and professional way to do things. How soon before you start asking for pictures of my home machine shop again?





So this group should ignore advice from professionals who have the kind of experience you don't have, right asshole? How many more Larry Jackass's does this group need?







You're a ****ing moron with no clues and you often show it. Please add me to your kill file immediately. I don't want you to learn anything from what I post just like Nichols doesn't. I prefer it that way.



I am pretty sure I am a lot smarter than you are. Your advice on drills may be good for professionals , but it is not worth much for those who do metalwork for fun. To you time is money, but that is not true for everyone.. If you have a mill, using short bits and not center punching is good. But for someone using a hand drill or even a drill press, using a center punch is a better way to go. Somehow I doubt that someone asking for advice on buying drills, has a mill.



If I had a kill file, you would be one of the first ones in it. But I must admit you provide a little fun with you posts. Such an ego and yet not able to understand and help anyone.



Dan







You're the only one that doesn't have him in the bin.

Wrong. Again.

Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups:

https://twitter.com/RCdeWinter/statu...579712/photo/1

On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 16:36:01 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 3/23/2014 3:58 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 09:47:14 -0400, Boris Mohar
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Mar 2014 17:19:55 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.
I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.

On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.
Any suggestions?
alofsax

Not this one http://www.viatrack.ca/Misc/DRILBIT.jpg

I got more artistic with my cheapie billdrit.
http://tinyurl.com/nclbe56

Everybody should have many, many cheapie drill bits, saves on wear and
tear on good ones. Most jobs will suffice on these.

True! I've been buying the large sets from HF, and when (not if) they
break, I buy better bits from Enco. I've had good luck with Triumph
and Hertel so far. Vermont American is a last resort. None of the
aforementioned are top-of-the-line, deep-pocket, best bits, but
they're all I've needed so far. 'Course, most of my work so far has
been sheetmetal or wood, so... g

--
The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most
likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often
than not, unconsidered.
-- Andre Gide

wrote:
As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.
I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.

On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.
Any suggestions?
alofsax

You never said what sizes or how many bits you want it a set, but Republic
Drill sells alleged to be made in USA drill index that come in a Huot box.
I have the number and fractional sets in screw machine length in black
HSS.

They're great, mostly because the're super short. I got mine from Little
Machine Shop in CA or Victor Machinery in NYC. Both places are respectable
and will not pull a "whoops it's chinese, we forgot to update the photo
and description" scam.

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:05:10 PM UTC-7, Cydrome Leader wrote:
wrote:

As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.

I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.



On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.

Any suggestions?

alofsax



You never said what sizes or how many bits you want it a set, but Republic

Drill sells alleged to be made in USA drill index that come in a Huot box.

I have the number and fractional sets in screw machine length in black

HSS.



They're great, mostly because the're super short. I got mine from Little

Machine Shop in CA or Victor Machinery in NYC. Both places are respectable

and will not pull a "whoops it's chinese, we forgot to update the photo

and description" scam.

Should you ever have to drill tough alloys you will be far better off with cobalt. They hold up much better.

On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 12:39:42 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 12:44:54 PM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:
On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:40:07 AM UTC-7, John B. wrote:




Twist drill are not considered precision hole making tools. If you



require precise holes then you need to start thinking of reaming,



boring, internal grinding, etc.



--



Cheers,







John B.





Spoken like someone who reads a textbook rather than someone who learns in a machining job shop how to use a drill to get the job done because time is money.



There is often no reason to ream or bore a hole.

Spoken like someone who can not comprehend the written word. John said "If you require precision holes". You must consider precision as being within a few thousandths. But if you are building a model engine, drilling holes is not going to hack it.

Dan

Now, now. Jon is an educated metal worker. He spent considerable
effort to educate us that HE once took an adult education course in
metal working.

(of course, from his posts it is obvious that he failed the course)
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 6:56:17 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 12:39:42 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:



On Sunday, March 23, 2014 12:44:54 PM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:40:07 AM UTC-7, John B. wrote:









Twist drill are not considered precision hole making tools. If you







require precise holes then you need to start thinking of reaming,







boring, internal grinding, etc.







--







Cheers,















John B.











Spoken like someone who reads a textbook rather than someone who learns in a machining job shop how to use a drill to get the job done because time is money.







There is often no reason to ream or bore a hole.



Spoken like someone who can not comprehend the written word. John said "If you require precision holes". You must consider precision as being within a few thousandths. But if you are building a model engine, drilling holes is not going to hack it.



Dan



Now, now. Jon is an educated metal worker. He spent considerable

effort to educate us that HE once took an adult education course in

metal working.



(of course, from his posts it is obvious that he failed the course)

--

Cheers,



John B.

I've spent 20 plus years working in machining job shops. About the best you can do get on your knees and blow Mark Wieber for clues.

On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 08:38:41 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:20:52 AM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:
On Saturday, March 22, 2014 10:12:41 PM UTC-7, DoN. Nichols wrote:



"Don't bet on *any* common drill bit being that good. If you want precision, drill a little undersized, and then use a reamer to enlarge the hole to the desired diameter."


Excellent advice. Even the best drills will drill a hole a little larger if they have been resharpened by hand.


Bull**** and spoken like the true amateur that Nichols is. Has Nichols ever worked in a professional machine shop?


Has it occurred to you that Don is in the right newsgroup if he is an amatuer. This is REC.crafts.metalworking. You are looking for pro.business.metalworking.
This is a newsgroup for people that do metalworking for RECREATION.

Dan

Jon is here for false self validation. Many many :\"amatures" here,
are far better machinists than Jonboi will ever be..assuming he leaves
his Sec 8 housing and gets a job.




If you don't have to ream you save time. I'm in the time business. Time is money. If you know what your doing and you know how to properly sharpen drill bits and test them there is no problem holding most drilled holes to a .002 tolerance or better.

--

"
I was once told by a “gun safety” advocate back in the Nineties
that he favored total civilian firearms confiscation.
Only the military and police should have weapons he averred and what did I think about that?

I began to give him a reasoned answer and he
cut me off with an abrupt, “Give me the short answer.”

I thought for a moment and said, “If you try to take our firearms we will kill you.”"

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On 3/23/2014 5:22 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 16:36:01 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 3/23/2014 3:58 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 09:47:14 -0400, Boris Mohar
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Mar 2014 17:19:55 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.
I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.

On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.
Any suggestions?
alofsax

Not this one http://www.viatrack.ca/Misc/DRILBIT.jpg

I got more artistic with my cheapie billdrit.
http://tinyurl.com/nclbe56

Everybody should have many, many cheapie drill bits, saves on wear and
tear on good ones. Most jobs will suffice on these.

True! I've been buying the large sets from HF, and when (not if) they
break, I buy better bits from Enco. I've had good luck with Triumph
and Hertel so far. Vermont American is a last resort. None of the
aforementioned are top-of-the-line, deep-pocket, best bits, but
they're all I've needed so far. 'Course, most of my work so far has
been sheetmetal or wood, so... g

--
The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most
likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often
than not, unconsidered.
-- Andre Gide



I refill my middle shelf indexes with Nachi bits. I figure good bits to
replace broken or lost and I'm on track having good bits where they are
needed.

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:40:35 PM UTC-7, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 08:38:41 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:



On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:20:52 AM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:

On Saturday, March 22, 2014 10:12:41 PM UTC-7, DoN. Nichols wrote:







"Don't bet on *any* common drill bit being that good. If you want precision, drill a little undersized, and then use a reamer to enlarge the hole to the desired diameter."





Excellent advice. Even the best drills will drill a hole a little larger if they have been resharpened by hand.





Bull**** and spoken like the true amateur that Nichols is. Has Nichols ever worked in a professional machine shop?





Has it occurred to you that Don is in the right newsgroup if he is an amatuer. This is REC.crafts.metalworking. You are looking for pro.business.metalworking.

This is a newsgroup for people that do metalworking for RECREATION.



Dan



Jon is here for false self validation. Many many :\"amatures" here,

are far better machinists than Jonboi will ever be..assuming he leaves

his Sec 8 housing and gets a job.









If you don't have to ream you save time. I'm in the time business. Time is money. If you know what your doing and you know how to properly sharpen drill bits and test them there is no problem holding most drilled holes to a .002 tolerance or better.



--



"

I was once told by a “gun safety” advocate back in the Nineties

that he favored total civilian firearms confiscation.

Only the military and police should have weapons he averred and what did I think about that?



I began to give him a reasoned answer and he

cut me off with an abrupt, “Give me the short answer.”



I thought for a moment and said, “If you try to take our firearms we will kill you.”"



---

This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.

http://www.avast.com

FACTS:

Mark Wieber has never held a job in a machining job shop.

Mark Wieber is a liar who gets nailed on his lies constantly.

Mark Wieber lives in a **** hole trailer in a **** hole town known mostly for meth busts.

This is the kind of machining job shop that I've worked for and that wouldn't hire Mark Wieber to be their janitor:

http://www.pyramidprecision.com/

On Mon, 24 Mar 2014 01:08:29 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 3/23/2014 5:22 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 16:36:01 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 3/23/2014 3:58 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 09:47:14 -0400, Boris Mohar
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Mar 2014 17:19:55 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.
I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.

On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.
Any suggestions?
alofsax

Not this one http://www.viatrack.ca/Misc/DRILBIT.jpg

I got more artistic with my cheapie billdrit.
http://tinyurl.com/nclbe56

Everybody should have many, many cheapie drill bits, saves on wear and
tear on good ones. Most jobs will suffice on these.

True! I've been buying the large sets from HF, and when (not if) they
break, I buy better bits from Enco. I've had good luck with Triumph
and Hertel so far. Vermont American is a last resort. None of the
aforementioned are top-of-the-line, deep-pocket, best bits, but
they're all I've needed so far. 'Course, most of my work so far has
been sheetmetal or wood, so... g

--
The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most
likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often
than not, unconsidered.
-- Andre Gide



I refill my middle shelf indexes with Nachi bits. I figure good bits to
replace broken or lost and I'm on track having good bits where they are
needed.

Rather expensive, don't you think? http://tinyurl.com/okyu42b

I tend to go through the smaller bits rather quickly, mostly from
abuse. My impactor falls over with a 1/16" bit in it and it usually
breaks. 1/16 and 1/8 are cheap at HF, and I get 3/32, 5/32, and 7/32
at Enco. Those are my top replacement sizes, so I buy 6/10/12 at a
time, since package sizes give significant breaks in pricing. Being a
chea^H^H^H^Hfrugal sort, I often wait until they have a free shipping
offer and buy then.

--
The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most
likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often
than not, unconsidered.
-- Andre Gide

On Mon, 24 Mar 2014 06:24:51 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Mar 2014 01:08:29 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 3/23/2014 5:22 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 16:36:01 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 3/23/2014 3:58 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 09:47:14 -0400, Boris Mohar
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Mar 2014 17:19:55 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.
I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.

On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.
Any suggestions?
alofsax

Not this one http://www.viatrack.ca/Misc/DRILBIT.jpg

I got more artistic with my cheapie billdrit.
http://tinyurl.com/nclbe56

Everybody should have many, many cheapie drill bits, saves on wear and
tear on good ones. Most jobs will suffice on these.

True! I've been buying the large sets from HF, and when (not if) they
break, I buy better bits from Enco. I've had good luck with Triumph
and Hertel so far. Vermont American is a last resort. None of the
aforementioned are top-of-the-line, deep-pocket, best bits, but
they're all I've needed so far. 'Course, most of my work so far has
been sheetmetal or wood, so... g

--
The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most
likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often
than not, unconsidered.
-- Andre Gide



I refill my middle shelf indexes with Nachi bits. I figure good bits to
replace broken or lost and I'm on track having good bits where they are
needed.

Rather expensive, don't you think? http://tinyurl.com/okyu42b

I tend to go through the smaller bits rather quickly, mostly from
abuse. My impactor falls over with a 1/16" bit in it and it usually
breaks. 1/16 and 1/8 are cheap at HF, and I get 3/32, 5/32, and 7/32
at Enco. Those are my top replacement sizes, so I buy 6/10/12 at a
time, since package sizes give significant breaks in pricing. Being a
chea^H^H^H^Hfrugal sort, I often wait until they have a free shipping
offer and buy then.

Tom makes precision Stuff from metal..so needs decent drill bits. My
Huot drawers (Fractional/Letter/number) are filled with Decent Drill
Bits.

My portable indexes and the stuff I give to the roommates..are OK
drill bits..where they may drill rough holes in metal and wood out in
the field.
I have a fair number of Nachi..good bits.

Gunner

--

"
I was once told by a “gun safety” advocate back in the Nineties
that he favored total civilian firearms confiscation.
Only the military and police should have weapons he averred and what did I think about that?

I began to give him a reasoned answer and he
cut me off with an abrupt, “Give me the short answer.”

I thought for a moment and said, “If you try to take our firearms we will kill you.”"

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

jon_banquer wrote:
On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:05:10 PM UTC-7, Cydrome Leader wrote:
wrote:

As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.

I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.



On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.

Any suggestions?

alofsax



You never said what sizes or how many bits you want it a set, but Republic

Drill sells alleged to be made in USA drill index that come in a Huot box.

I have the number and fractional sets in screw machine length in black

HSS.



They're great, mostly because the're super short. I got mine from Little

Machine Shop in CA or Victor Machinery in NYC. Both places are respectable

and will not pull a "whoops it's chinese, we forgot to update the photo

and description" scam.

Should you ever have to drill tough alloys you will be far better off with cobalt. They hold up much better.

Any opinions of those hard material drill bits that lack a twist? What
about center drills vs. 90 degree spot drills?

On Monday, March 24, 2014 10:35:59 AM UTC-7, Cydrome Leader wrote:
jon_banquer wrote:

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:05:10 PM UTC-7, Cydrome Leader wrote:

wrote:



As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.



I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.







On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.



Any suggestions?



alofsax







You never said what sizes or how many bits you want it a set, but Republic



Drill sells alleged to be made in USA drill index that come in a Huot box.



I have the number and fractional sets in screw machine length in black



HSS.







They're great, mostly because the're super short. I got mine from Little



Machine Shop in CA or Victor Machinery in NYC. Both places are respectable



and will not pull a "whoops it's chinese, we forgot to update the photo



and description" scam.



Should you ever have to drill tough alloys you will be far better off with cobalt. They hold up much better.



Any opinions of those hard material drill bits that lack a twist? What

about center drills vs. 90 degree spot drills?


You get much better positioning with a center drill vs. a 90 degree NC spot drill.

When you don't need the high degree of positioning you use a 90 degree NC spot drill because they last a longer.

On Monday, March 24, 2014 10:35:59 AM UTC-7, Cydrome Leader wrote:
jon_banquer wrote:

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:05:10 PM UTC-7, Cydrome Leader wrote:

wrote:



As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.



I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.







On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.



Any suggestions?



alofsax







You never said what sizes or how many bits you want it a set, but Republic



Drill sells alleged to be made in USA drill index that come in a Huot box.



I have the number and fractional sets in screw machine length in black



HSS.







They're great, mostly because the're super short. I got mine from Little



Machine Shop in CA or Victor Machinery in NYC. Both places are respectable



and will not pull a "whoops it's chinese, we forgot to update the photo



and description" scam.



Should you ever have to drill tough alloys you will be far better off with cobalt. They hold up much better.



Any opinions of those hard material drill bits that lack a twist? What

about center drills vs. 90 degree spot drills?

I call hard material drills that lack a twist Hi-Rock drills. They are made of carbide. They burn through the metal, give you a nice finish and don't leave a burr. I don't use water based coolant when I use them. I turn the coolant off and use Molly-D. If you break one off in the part you're usually completely ****ed.

jon_banquer wrote:
On Monday, March 24, 2014 10:35:59 AM UTC-7, Cydrome Leader wrote:
jon_banquer wrote:

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:05:10 PM UTC-7, Cydrome Leader wrote:

wrote:



As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.



I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.







On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.



Any suggestions?



alofsax







You never said what sizes or how many bits you want it a set, but Republic



Drill sells alleged to be made in USA drill index that come in a Huot box.



I have the number and fractional sets in screw machine length in black



HSS.







They're great, mostly because the're super short. I got mine from Little



Machine Shop in CA or Victor Machinery in NYC. Both places are respectable



and will not pull a "whoops it's chinese, we forgot to update the photo



and description" scam.



Should you ever have to drill tough alloys you will be far better off with cobalt. They hold up much better.



Any opinions of those hard material drill bits that lack a twist? What

about center drills vs. 90 degree spot drills?

I call hard material drills that lack a twist Hi-Rock drills. They are made of carbide. They burn through the metal, give you a nice finish and don't leave a burr. I don't use water based coolant when I use them. I turn the coolant off and use Molly-D. If you break one off in the part you're usually completely ****ed.

the cross section looks similar to a tap. can a tap extractor be used to
remove them?

Somehow, I've never broken a tap off below the surface, but I only tap by
hand and am not in a big hurry.

On Monday, March 24, 2014 2:44:15 PM UTC-7, Cydrome Leader wrote:
jon_banquer wrote:

On Monday, March 24, 2014 10:35:59 AM UTC-7, Cydrome Leader wrote:

jon_banquer wrote:



On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:05:10 PM UTC-7, Cydrome Leader wrote:



wrote:







As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.







I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.















On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.







Any suggestions?







alofsax















You never said what sizes or how many bits you want it a set, but Republic







Drill sells alleged to be made in USA drill index that come in a Huot box.







I have the number and fractional sets in screw machine length in black







HSS.















They're great, mostly because the're super short. I got mine from Little







Machine Shop in CA or Victor Machinery in NYC. Both places are respectable







and will not pull a "whoops it's chinese, we forgot to update the photo







and description" scam.







Should you ever have to drill tough alloys you will be far better off with cobalt. They hold up much better.







Any opinions of those hard material drill bits that lack a twist? What



about center drills vs. 90 degree spot drills?



I call hard material drills that lack a twist Hi-Rock drills. They are made of carbide. They burn through the metal, give you a nice finish and don't leave a burr. I don't use water based coolant when I use them. I turn the coolant off and use Molly-D. If you break one off in the part you're usually completely ****ed.



the cross section looks similar to a tap. can a tap extractor be used to

remove them?



Somehow, I've never broken a tap off below the surface, but I only tap by

hand and am not in a big hurry.

Tap extractors almost never work, period. I don't even bother with them. When I bust a tap, I use a carbide end mill to break it up. You develop a really good feel after doing this enough times. I usually can get broken taps out pretty quickly.

When a carbide High-Rock drill busts usually bits of carbide embed themselves in the hole and it's game over.

On Monday, March 24, 2014 2:44:15 PM UTC-7, Cydrome Leader wrote:
jon_banquer wrote:

On Monday, March 24, 2014 10:35:59 AM UTC-7, Cydrome Leader wrote:

jon_banquer wrote:



On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:05:10 PM UTC-7, Cydrome Leader wrote:



wrote:







As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.







I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.















On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.







Any suggestions?







alofsax















You never said what sizes or how many bits you want it a set, but Republic







Drill sells alleged to be made in USA drill index that come in a Huot box.







I have the number and fractional sets in screw machine length in black







HSS.















They're great, mostly because the're super short. I got mine from Little







Machine Shop in CA or Victor Machinery in NYC. Both places are respectable







and will not pull a "whoops it's chinese, we forgot to update the photo







and description" scam.







Should you ever have to drill tough alloys you will be far better off with cobalt. They hold up much better.







Any opinions of those hard material drill bits that lack a twist? What



about center drills vs. 90 degree spot drills?



I call hard material drills that lack a twist Hi-Rock drills. They are made of carbide. They burn through the metal, give you a nice finish and don't leave a burr. I don't use water based coolant when I use them. I turn the coolant off and use Molly-D. If you break one off in the part you're usually completely ****ed.



the cross section looks similar to a tap. can a tap extractor be used to

remove them?



Somehow, I've never broken a tap off below the surface, but I only tap by

hand and am not in a big hurry.

When you get a job where you have a ton of small holes to tap the only way to go is a Tapmatic type head. I've only used the manual ones on a drill press. Love em:

http://tapmatic.com/products-page/se...al-attachments

On 3/24/2014 9:24 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 24 Mar 2014 01:08:29 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 3/23/2014 5:22 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 16:36:01 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 3/23/2014 3:58 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 09:47:14 -0400, Boris Mohar
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Mar 2014 17:19:55 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

As a newby I don't know where to buy drill bit sets.
I want high precision, no bits that give me a .190 hole from a .186 drill bit; and not a 123 hole from a .125 bit either.

On EBAY I foudn 12 piece sets for $8.95 (from China probably), but when I search other sources the same type of sets are around $350.
Any suggestions?
alofsax

Not this one http://www.viatrack.ca/Misc/DRILBIT.jpg

I got more artistic with my cheapie billdrit.
http://tinyurl.com/nclbe56

Everybody should have many, many cheapie drill bits, saves on wear and
tear on good ones. Most jobs will suffice on these.

True! I've been buying the large sets from HF, and when (not if) they
break, I buy better bits from Enco. I've had good luck with Triumph
and Hertel so far. Vermont American is a last resort. None of the
aforementioned are top-of-the-line, deep-pocket, best bits, but
they're all I've needed so far. 'Course, most of my work so far has
been sheetmetal or wood, so... g

--
The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most
likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often
than not, unconsidered.
-- Andre Gide



I refill my middle shelf indexes with Nachi bits. I figure good bits to
replace broken or lost and I'm on track having good bits where they are
needed.

Rather expensive, don't you think? http://tinyurl.com/okyu42b

I tend to go through the smaller bits rather quickly, mostly from
abuse. My impactor falls over with a 1/16" bit in it and it usually
breaks. 1/16 and 1/8 are cheap at HF, and I get 3/32, 5/32, and 7/32
at Enco. Those are my top replacement sizes, so I buy 6/10/12 at a
time, since package sizes give significant breaks in pricing. Being a
chea^H^H^H^Hfrugal sort, I often wait until they have a free shipping
offer and buy then.

--
The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most
likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often
than not, unconsidered.
-- Andre Gide



Cheap compared to a broken bit imbedded in a workpiece with 10 hours in it.

On 3/23/2014 11:40 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 23 Mar 2014 08:38:41 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:20:52 AM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:
On Saturday, March 22, 2014 10:12:41 PM UTC-7, DoN. Nichols wrote:



"Don't bet on *any* common drill bit being that good. If you want precision, drill a little undersized, and then use a reamer to enlarge the hole to the desired diameter."


Excellent advice. Even the best drills will drill a hole a little larger if they have been resharpened by hand.


Bull**** and spoken like the true amateur that Nichols is. Has Nichols ever worked in a professional machine shop?


Has it occurred to you that Don is in the right newsgroup if he is an amatuer. This is REC.crafts.metalworking. You are looking for pro.business.metalworking.
This is a newsgroup for people that do metalworking for RECREATION.

Dan

Jon is here for false self validation. Many many :\"amatures" here,
are far better machinists than Jonboi will ever be..assuming he leaves
his Sec 8 housing and gets a job.




Careful or he will beat you up like he did his wife.