OK , so here's what I got . I have an older 18" Poulan Wild Thing chainsaw
.. It has an angle plate between the carb and cylinder , it's apparent
purpose is to angle the carb up slightly . Problem area is where the plate
bolts to the cylinder . I can't keep the damn screws tight , and when they
loosen the saw just doesn't run because it's a massive vacuum leak . I've
tried red loctite , tried dry , and they just keep getting loose . Carb to
plate screws are fine , no problems there .
Fortunately I have 2 other FREE ! saws , so I can still cut firewood ,
but I'd like to get this one reliable , as it has the longest bar . Cuttin'
fool when it runs right , as are the others since I learned how to sharpen
chains . Very important tool if you heat with wood !
--
Snag

About those free saws ... both needed work , PO's couldn't get them to run
right . Both have new chains now , 14" Homelite also has a new sprocket .
16" Stihl needed carb cleaned more than anything , though it still has
isolation mount issues .

Terry Coombs wrote:
OK , so here's what I got . I have an older 18" Poulan Wild Thing chainsaw
. It has an angle plate between the carb and cylinder , it's apparent
purpose is to angle the carb up slightly . Problem area is where the plate
bolts to the cylinder . I can't keep the damn screws tight , and when they
loosen the saw just doesn't run because it's a massive vacuum leak . I've
tried red loctite , tried dry , and they just keep getting loose . Carb to
plate screws are fine , no problems there .
Fortunately I have 2 other FREE ! saws , so I can still cut firewood ,
but I'd like to get this one reliable , as it has the longest bar . Cuttin'
fool when it runs right , as are the others since I learned how to sharpen
chains . Very important tool if you heat with wood !


Steel/Aluminum with Heat/Vibration = Loose studs every time.


The fix would be two fold. One install the correct size heli-coil. Next
install studs into the heli-coils using Loctite 2620 (it will handle 640
degrees continuous Vs 450 for the common 266/272 versions)

Or if you don't want to do that. Cross drill the bolt heads, torque them
down and install safety wire so they cannot loosen.

--
Steve W.

On 10-Mar-14 11:41 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
OK , so here's what I got . I have an older 18" Poulan Wild Thing chainsaw
. It has an angle plate between the carb and cylinder , it's apparent
purpose is to angle the carb up slightly . Problem area is where the plate
bolts to the cylinder . I can't keep the damn screws tight , and when they
loosen the saw just doesn't run because it's a massive vacuum leak . I've
tried red loctite , tried dry , and they just keep getting loose . Carb to
plate screws are fine , no problems there .
Fortunately I have 2 other FREE ! saws , so I can still cut firewood ,
but I'd like to get this one reliable , as it has the longest bar . Cuttin'
fool when it runs right , as are the others since I learned how to sharpen
chains . Very important tool if you heat with wood !



Can you drill & lock wire?

Serrated washers under them?

Make up a shim lock tab to go under the bolts & bend up to lock the heads?

Terry Coombs wrote:
OK , so here's what I got . I have an older 18" Poulan Wild Thing chainsaw
. It has an angle plate between the carb and cylinder , it's apparent
purpose is to angle the carb up slightly . Problem area is where the plate
bolts to the cylinder . I can't keep the damn screws tight , and when they
loosen the saw just doesn't run because it's a massive vacuum leak . I've
tried red loctite , tried dry , and they just keep getting loose . Carb to
plate screws are fine , no problems there .
Fortunately I have 2 other FREE ! saws , so I can still cut firewood ,
but I'd like to get this one reliable , as it has the longest bar . Cuttin'
fool when it runs right , as are the others since I learned how to sharpen
chains . Very important tool if you heat with wood !

if they'd fit, and you can get some, try nord-lock washers. they are magic
under the right conditions.

On 3/10/2014 5:41, Terry Coombs wrote:
OK , so here's what I got . I have an older 18" Poulan Wild Thing chainsaw
. It has an angle plate between the carb and cylinder , it's apparent
purpose is to angle the carb up slightly . Problem area is where the plate
bolts to the cylinder . I can't keep the damn screws tight , and when they
loosen the saw just doesn't run because it's a massive vacuum leak . I've
tried red loctite , tried dry , and they just keep getting loose . Carb to
plate screws are fine , no problems there .
Fortunately I have 2 other FREE ! saws , so I can still cut firewood ,
but I'd like to get this one reliable , as it has the longest bar . Cuttin'
fool when it runs right , as are the others since I learned how to sharpen
chains . Very important tool if you heat with wood !

I solved similar problem with chainsaw carburator by
using stronger thread compound with higher working temperature.
I'm not certain which one was the important feature, but
it helped.

Steve W. wrote:

Terry Coombs wrote:
OK , so here's what I got . I have an older 18" Poulan Wild Thing
chainsaw
. It has an angle plate between the carb and cylinder , it's apparent
purpose is to angle the carb up slightly . Problem area is where the
plate bolts to the cylinder . I can't keep the damn screws tight , and
when they loosen the saw just doesn't run because it's a massive vacuum
leak . I've tried red loctite , tried dry , and they just keep getting
loose . Carb to plate screws are fine , no problems there .
Fortunately I have 2 other FREE ! saws , so I can still cut firewood
,
but I'd like to get this one reliable , as it has the longest bar .
Cuttin' fool when it runs right , as are the others since I learned how
to sharpen chains . Very important tool if you heat with wood !


Steel/Aluminum with Heat/Vibration = Loose studs every time.
Another possible solution is Belleville washers under the screws.
The screws may be stretching or the cylinder/plate is crushing under the
thermal cycling.

Jon

On 2014-03-10, Terry Coombs wrote:
OK , so here's what I got . I have an older 18" Poulan Wild Thing chainsaw
. It has an angle plate between the carb and cylinder , it's apparent
purpose is to angle the carb up slightly . Problem area is where the plate
bolts to the cylinder . I can't keep the damn screws tight , and when they
loosen the saw just doesn't run because it's a massive vacuum leak . I've
tried red loctite , tried dry , and they just keep getting loose . Carb to
plate screws are fine , no problems there .

Can you cross-drill the heads of the screws, and then use safety
wire to keep them from turning with the vibration? (It helps to have
the special safety-wire pliers to twist each run from one screw to the
next to do a neat and tight job.)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Sun, 9 Mar 2014 22:41:14 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

OK , so here's what I got . I have an older 18" Poulan Wild Thing chainsaw

Aw, I'm sorry.



. It has an angle plate between the carb and cylinder , it's apparent
purpose is to angle the carb up slightly . Problem area is where the plate
bolts to the cylinder . I can't keep the damn screws tight , and when they
loosen the saw just doesn't run because it's a massive vacuum leak . I've
tried red loctite , tried dry , and they just keep getting loose . Carb to
plate screws are fine , no problems there .
Fortunately I have 2 other FREE ! saws , so I can still cut firewood ,
but I'd like to get this one reliable , as it has the longest bar . Cuttin'
fool when it runs right , as are the others since I learned how to sharpen
chains . Very important tool if you heat with wood !

Drill the bolts for safety wire and wahr them suckers in there, Snag.
The mounting angle evidently prevents the bolt head from securing
properly against the carb body.

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams

On Sun, 9 Mar 2014 22:41:14 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

OK , so here's what I got . I have an older 18" Poulan Wild Thing chainsaw
. It has an angle plate between the carb and cylinder , it's apparent
purpose is to angle the carb up slightly . Problem area is where the plate
bolts to the cylinder . I can't keep the damn screws tight , and when they
loosen the saw just doesn't run because it's a massive vacuum leak . I've
tried red loctite , tried dry , and they just keep getting loose . Carb to
plate screws are fine , no problems there .
Fortunately I have 2 other FREE ! saws , so I can still cut firewood ,
but I'd like to get this one reliable , as it has the longest bar . Cuttin'
fool when it runs right , as are the others since I learned how to sharpen
chains . Very important tool if you heat with wood !
I'm surprised that you are having the screws come loose even though
you are using Loctite. I have never had a bolt or screw loosen when
using Loctite properly. Are you sure that the screw and tapped hole
were totally free from any oil? The regular red Loctite will withstand
400 degrees F without loosening and I would be surprised if that area
of the cylinder gets that hot. But it may indeed get that hot. I have
used locking Heli-Coil inserts where Loctite was not appropriate. They
will not let the screw come loose from vibration, in my experience.
Eric

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On Tue, 11 Mar 2014 09:44:43 -0700, wrote:

On Sun, 9 Mar 2014 22:41:14 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

OK , so here's what I got . I have an older 18" Poulan Wild Thing chainsaw
. It has an angle plate between the carb and cylinder , it's apparent
purpose is to angle the carb up slightly . Problem area is where the plate
bolts to the cylinder . I can't keep the damn screws tight , and when they
loosen the saw just doesn't run because it's a massive vacuum leak . I've
tried red loctite , tried dry , and they just keep getting loose . Carb to
plate screws are fine , no problems there .
Fortunately I have 2 other FREE ! saws , so I can still cut firewood ,
but I'd like to get this one reliable , as it has the longest bar . Cuttin'
fool when it runs right , as are the others since I learned how to sharpen
chains . Very important tool if you heat with wood !
I'm surprised that you are having the screws come loose even though
you are using Loctite. I have never had a bolt or screw loosen when
using Loctite properly. Are you sure that the screw and tapped hole
were totally free from any oil? The regular red Loctite will withstand
400 degrees F without loosening and I would be surprised if that area
of the cylinder gets that hot. But it may indeed get that hot. I have
used locking Heli-Coil inserts where Loctite was not appropriate. They
will not let the screw come loose from vibration, in my experience.

Eric, you're used to straight screw on flat surfaces. This is a case
of a screw head contacting an angled surface. Ideally, they should
have counterbored the carb flange at a flat angle to the head, but it
sounds as if they didn't.

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams

On Tue, 11 Mar 2014 12:01:18 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 11 Mar 2014 09:44:43 -0700, wrote:

On Sun, 9 Mar 2014 22:41:14 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

OK , so here's what I got . I have an older 18" Poulan Wild Thing chainsaw
. It has an angle plate between the carb and cylinder , it's apparent
purpose is to angle the carb up slightly . Problem area is where the plate
bolts to the cylinder . I can't keep the damn screws tight , and when they
loosen the saw just doesn't run because it's a massive vacuum leak . I've
tried red loctite , tried dry , and they just keep getting loose . Carb to
plate screws are fine , no problems there .
Fortunately I have 2 other FREE ! saws , so I can still cut firewood ,
but I'd like to get this one reliable , as it has the longest bar . Cuttin'
fool when it runs right , as are the others since I learned how to sharpen
chains . Very important tool if you heat with wood !
I'm surprised that you are having the screws come loose even though
you are using Loctite. I have never had a bolt or screw loosen when
using Loctite properly. Are you sure that the screw and tapped hole
were totally free from any oil? The regular red Loctite will withstand
400 degrees F without loosening and I would be surprised if that area
of the cylinder gets that hot. But it may indeed get that hot. I have
used locking Heli-Coil inserts where Loctite was not appropriate. They
will not let the screw come loose from vibration, in my experience.

Eric, you're used to straight screw on flat surfaces. This is a case
of a screw head contacting an angled surface. Ideally, they should
have counterbored the carb flange at a flat angle to the head, but it
sounds as if they didn't.

So why not counter bore at the proper angle? Doesnt need to be very
deep.

Gunner

--

"
I was once told by a “gun safety” advocate back in the Nineties
that he favored total civilian firearms confiscation.
Only the military and police should have weapons he averred and what did I think about that?

I began to give him a reasoned answer and he
cut me off with an abrupt, “Give me the short answer.”

I thought for a moment and said, “If you try to take our firearms we will kill you.”"

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On Tue, 11 Mar 2014 09:44:43 -0700, wrote:

On Sun, 9 Mar 2014 22:41:14 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

OK , so here's what I got . I have an older 18" Poulan Wild Thing chainsaw
. It has an angle plate between the carb and cylinder , it's apparent
purpose is to angle the carb up slightly . Problem area is where the plate
bolts to the cylinder . I can't keep the damn screws tight , and when they
loosen the saw just doesn't run because it's a massive vacuum leak . I've
tried red loctite , tried dry , and they just keep getting loose . Carb to
plate screws are fine , no problems there .
Fortunately I have 2 other FREE ! saws , so I can still cut firewood ,
but I'd like to get this one reliable , as it has the longest bar . Cuttin'
fool when it runs right , as are the others since I learned how to sharpen
chains . Very important tool if you heat with wood !
I'm surprised that you are having the screws come loose even though
you are using Loctite. I have never had a bolt or screw loosen when
using Loctite properly. Are you sure that the screw and tapped hole
were totally free from any oil? The regular red Loctite will withstand
400 degrees F without loosening and I would be surprised if that area
of the cylinder gets that hot. But it may indeed get that hot. I have
used locking Heli-Coil inserts where Loctite was not appropriate. They
will not let the screw come loose from vibration, in my experience.
Eric

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Use a "locking plate" - just a small sheet of sheet metal, drilled
for the bolt, and a tab bent up to one or more flats on the bolt, and
another tab or more bent back over the flange. IMOSSIBLE for them to
vibrate loose - or the classic aircraft approach - safety wire through
drilled bolt heads.

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 11 Mar 2014 09:44:43 -0700, wrote:

On Sun, 9 Mar 2014 22:41:14 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

OK , so here's what I got . I have an older 18" Poulan Wild Thing
chainsaw . It has an angle plate between the carb and cylinder ,
it's apparent purpose is to angle the carb up slightly . Problem
area is where the plate bolts to the cylinder . I can't keep the
damn screws tight , and when they loosen the saw just doesn't run
because it's a massive vacuum leak . I've tried red loctite , tried
dry , and they just keep getting loose . Carb to plate screws are
fine , no problems there . Fortunately I have 2 other FREE !
saws , so I can still cut firewood , but I'd like to get this one
reliable , as it has the longest bar . Cuttin' fool when it runs
right , as are the others since I learned how to sharpen chains .
Very important tool if you heat with wood !
I'm surprised that you are having the screws come loose even though
you are using Loctite. I have never had a bolt or screw loosen when
using Loctite properly. Are you sure that the screw and tapped hole
were totally free from any oil? The regular red Loctite will
withstand 400 degrees F without loosening and I would be surprised
if that area of the cylinder gets that hot. But it may indeed get
that hot. I have used locking Heli-Coil inserts where Loctite was
not appropriate. They will not let the screw come loose from
vibration, in my experience.

Eric, you're used to straight screw on flat surfaces. This is a case
of a screw head contacting an angled surface. Ideally, they should
have counterbored the carb flange at a flat angle to the head, but it
sounds as if they didn't.

Nope , it's properly counterbored . Someone upthread I think nailed it ,
it's a combination of differential expansion and vibrations . I'm thinking
I'll use some antiseize on the threads , then use green wicking loctite to
lock the bolt head to the flange of the angle plate - these are like #8 or10
screws with a torx head , no room to drill and lockwire . This has been a
pretty good saw , had it for several yeatrs . But it apparently wasn't
intended for heavy usage like I've been using it . That's OK though , I'll
get it repaired and hold it as a backup .
--
Snag

On Tue, 11 Mar 2014 12:24:02 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 11 Mar 2014 12:01:18 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 11 Mar 2014 09:44:43 -0700, wrote:

On Sun, 9 Mar 2014 22:41:14 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

OK , so here's what I got . I have an older 18" Poulan Wild Thing chainsaw
. It has an angle plate between the carb and cylinder , it's apparent
purpose is to angle the carb up slightly . Problem area is where the plate
bolts to the cylinder . I can't keep the damn screws tight , and when they
loosen the saw just doesn't run because it's a massive vacuum leak . I've
tried red loctite , tried dry , and they just keep getting loose . Carb to
plate screws are fine , no problems there .
Fortunately I have 2 other FREE ! saws , so I can still cut firewood ,
but I'd like to get this one reliable , as it has the longest bar . Cuttin'
fool when it runs right , as are the others since I learned how to sharpen
chains . Very important tool if you heat with wood !
I'm surprised that you are having the screws come loose even though
you are using Loctite. I have never had a bolt or screw loosen when
using Loctite properly. Are you sure that the screw and tapped hole
were totally free from any oil? The regular red Loctite will withstand
400 degrees F without loosening and I would be surprised if that area
of the cylinder gets that hot. But it may indeed get that hot. I have
used locking Heli-Coil inserts where Loctite was not appropriate. They
will not let the screw come loose from vibration, in my experience.

Eric, you're used to straight screw on flat surfaces. This is a case
of a screw head contacting an angled surface. Ideally, they should
have counterbored the carb flange at a flat angle to the head, but it
sounds as if they didn't.

So why not counter bore at the proper angle? Doesnt need to be very
deep.

Perhaps the reason they didn't is that there is to much carb hanging
over the flange. But why they didn't change the mold is left up to
the imagination. Maybe they have a deal with some of the repair
stations out there, sending them more business for a cut of the
profits, the cads.

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams

On Tue, 11 Mar 2014 17:56:45 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 11 Mar 2014 09:44:43 -0700, wrote:

On Sun, 9 Mar 2014 22:41:14 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

OK , so here's what I got . I have an older 18" Poulan Wild Thing chainsaw
. It has an angle plate between the carb and cylinder , it's apparent
purpose is to angle the carb up slightly . Problem area is where the plate
bolts to the cylinder . I can't keep the damn screws tight , and when they
loosen the saw just doesn't run because it's a massive vacuum leak . I've
tried red loctite , tried dry , and they just keep getting loose . Carb to
plate screws are fine , no problems there .
Fortunately I have 2 other FREE ! saws , so I can still cut firewood ,
but I'd like to get this one reliable , as it has the longest bar . Cuttin'
fool when it runs right , as are the others since I learned how to sharpen
chains . Very important tool if you heat with wood !
I'm surprised that you are having the screws come loose even though
you are using Loctite. I have never had a bolt or screw loosen when
using Loctite properly. Are you sure that the screw and tapped hole
were totally free from any oil? The regular red Loctite will withstand
400 degrees F without loosening and I would be surprised if that area
of the cylinder gets that hot. But it may indeed get that hot. I have
used locking Heli-Coil inserts where Loctite was not appropriate. They
will not let the screw come loose from vibration, in my experience.
Eric

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Use a "locking plate" - just a small sheet of sheet metal, drilled
for the bolt, and a tab bent up to one or more flats on the bolt, and
another tab or more bent back over the flange. IMOSSIBLE for them to
vibrate loose - or the classic aircraft approach - safety wire through
drilled bolt heads.

An excellent thought, IF there's enough room in the counterbore for
it. Or perhaps he could slot the top of the flange, taking off some
of the counterbore meat at the outside to allow a single tab?

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams

On Tue, 11 Mar 2014 19:58:12 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 11 Mar 2014 17:56:45 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 11 Mar 2014 09:44:43 -0700, wrote:

On Sun, 9 Mar 2014 22:41:14 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

OK , so here's what I got . I have an older 18" Poulan Wild Thing chainsaw
. It has an angle plate between the carb and cylinder , it's apparent
purpose is to angle the carb up slightly . Problem area is where the plate
bolts to the cylinder . I can't keep the damn screws tight , and when they
loosen the saw just doesn't run because it's a massive vacuum leak . I've
tried red loctite , tried dry , and they just keep getting loose . Carb to
plate screws are fine , no problems there .
Fortunately I have 2 other FREE ! saws , so I can still cut firewood ,
but I'd like to get this one reliable , as it has the longest bar . Cuttin'
fool when it runs right , as are the others since I learned how to sharpen
chains . Very important tool if you heat with wood !
I'm surprised that you are having the screws come loose even though
you are using Loctite. I have never had a bolt or screw loosen when
using Loctite properly. Are you sure that the screw and tapped hole
were totally free from any oil? The regular red Loctite will withstand
400 degrees F without loosening and I would be surprised if that area
of the cylinder gets that hot. But it may indeed get that hot. I have
used locking Heli-Coil inserts where Loctite was not appropriate. They
will not let the screw come loose from vibration, in my experience.
Eric

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Use a "locking plate" - just a small sheet of sheet metal, drilled
for the bolt, and a tab bent up to one or more flats on the bolt, and
another tab or more bent back over the flange. IMOSSIBLE for them to
vibrate loose - or the classic aircraft approach - safety wire through
drilled bolt heads.

An excellent thought, IF there's enough room in the counterbore for
it. Or perhaps he could slot the top of the flange, taking off some
of the counterbore meat at the outside to allow a single tab?
I can guarantee it would only loosen once for me!!