"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...


Is 16.5 volts "too high" for most 12vt dc devices like Marine radios,
fish finders, GPS devices, CB radios, am/fm/cd players and the like?


Yes.


If the voltage is too high..what cheap and easy method is there to
drop the voltage down to 13.5/12vts to run my various electronic
devices? Besides a big as resistor....?


Build a regulator using a 7812 voltage regulator and some 2N3055
transistors. You could also use a LM317 and make output voltage
adjustable. Don't forget the crowbar on the output.

Best Regards
Tom.

On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 17:45:58 -0800, "Howard Beal"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .


Is 16.5 volts "too high" for most 12vt dc devices like Marine radios,
fish finders, GPS devices, CB radios, am/fm/cd players and the like?


Yes.


If the voltage is too high..what cheap and easy method is there to
drop the voltage down to 13.5/12vts to run my various electronic
devices? Besides a big as resistor....?


Build a regulator using a 7812 voltage regulator and some 2N3055
transistors. You could also use a LM317 and make output voltage
adjustable. Don't forget the crowbar on the output.

Best Regards
Tom.


Right. Would you have the plans someplace downloadable?

After the stroke..as Ive mentioned before..Ive lost a lot of bits and
pieces..and I drew a complete blank after reading your solution. So
its worse than I thought.

Sorry about that.

Ill need about 10 amps max output. Ive got about 400 amp hours to work
with.

Gunner

--
"Virtually all members of [radical] groups sincerely believe that
they are fighting the Establishment. In reality they are an indespensible ally
of the Establishment in fastening Socialism on all of us.
The naive radicals think that under Socialism the "people" will run everything.
Actually, it will be a clique of Insiders in total control, consolidating and
controlling all wealth. That is why these schoolboy Lenins and teenage Trotskys
are allowed to roam free and are practically never arrested or prosecuted.
They are protected. If the Establishment wanted the revolutionaries stopped,
how long do you think they would be tolerated?



---
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On 2/11/2014 7:45 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
"Gunner wrote in message
...


Is 16.5 volts "too high" for most 12vt dc devices like Marine radios,
fish finders, GPS devices, CB radios, am/fm/cd players and the like?


Yes.


If the voltage is too high..what cheap and easy method is there to
drop the voltage down to 13.5/12vts to run my various electronic
devices? Besides a big as resistor....?


Build a regulator using a 7812 voltage regulator and some 2N3055
transistors. You could also use a LM317 and make output voltage
adjustable. Don't forget the crowbar on the output.

Best Regards
Tom.




Actually, before that he should try to charge them and see if they are
worth all the trouble... How is, of course, the question.

THEN consider a regulator.

The 7812 an LM317 in TO-3 package (the lozenge shaped transistor
thingie) are limited to 1 amp. A pass transistor can be added for
higher current, but it starts getting complicated.

LM-350 can go to 3 amps in a TO-3.

On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 21:24:58 -0600, Richard
wrote:

On 2/11/2014 7:45 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
"Gunner wrote in message
...


Is 16.5 volts "too high" for most 12vt dc devices like Marine radios,
fish finders, GPS devices, CB radios, am/fm/cd players and the like?


Yes.


If the voltage is too high..what cheap and easy method is there to
drop the voltage down to 13.5/12vts to run my various electronic
devices? Besides a big as resistor....?


Build a regulator using a 7812 voltage regulator and some 2N3055
transistors. You could also use a LM317 and make output voltage
adjustable. Don't forget the crowbar on the output.

Best Regards
Tom.




Actually, before that he should try to charge them and see if they are
worth all the trouble... How is, of course, the question.

As I noted in my original post..they charge just fine.

What about a simple old fashion automotive regulator that bolted to
the firewall?


THEN consider a regulator.

The 7812 an LM317 in TO-3 package (the lozenge shaped transistor
thingie) are limited to 1 amp. A pass transistor can be added for
higher current, but it starts getting complicated.

LM-350 can go to 3 amps in a TO-3.

--
"Virtually all members of [radical] groups sincerely believe that
they are fighting the Establishment. In reality they are an indespensible ally
of the Establishment in fastening Socialism on all of us.
The naive radicals think that under Socialism the "people" will run everything.
Actually, it will be a clique of Insiders in total control, consolidating and
controlling all wealth. That is why these schoolboy Lenins and teenage Trotskys
are allowed to roam free and are practically never arrested or prosecuted.
They are protected. If the Establishment wanted the revolutionaries stopped,
how long do you think they would be tolerated?



---
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http://www.avast.com

On 2014-02-12, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 21:24:58 -0600, Richard
wrote:

On 2/11/2014 7:45 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
"Gunner wrote in message
...


Is 16.5 volts "too high" for most 12vt dc devices like Marine radios,
fish finders, GPS devices, CB radios, am/fm/cd players and the like?

All of these are made to work in an auto as well (except the
fish finder and the Marine radio likely), and the voltage in an auto can
get that high, depending on engine RPM and temperature, so I would think
that they likely can. The "12V" is nominal and 14V is more common in a
properly functioning automobile.

Is there an alternator or generator keeping the voltage up in
the battery in the boat? (I somehow missed the original article.)

Yes.


If the voltage is too high..what cheap and easy method is there to
drop the voltage down to 13.5/12vts to run my various electronic
devices? Besides a big as resistor....?


Build a regulator using a 7812 voltage regulator and some 2N3055
transistors. You could also use a LM317 and make output voltage
adjustable. Don't forget the crowbar on the output.

Best Regards
Tom.




Actually, before that he should try to charge them and see if they are
worth all the trouble... How is, of course, the question.

As I noted in my original post..they charge just fine.

What about a simple old fashion automotive regulator that bolted to
the firewall?

The really old ones are for generators, and somewhat newer ones
are for alternators. Both regulate by pulsing on and off the field
current in the respective device, and the battery is a part of the
voltage limiting circuit. The actual voltage is a function of (among
other things) the temperature under the hood, as it affects the
electro-chemical stuff happening in the battery.

Anyway -- those regulators are pretty useless without an
associated generator or alternator. (Is there one in the boat, with a
big engine sitting there cranking the alternator/generator and turning
the prop? I thought that you were working on a sailboat. The ones
which I am familiar with only had a bolt-on outboard for when the wind
died and you needed to get into your mooring.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 12 Feb 2014 06:23:07 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2014-02-12, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 21:24:58 -0600, Richard
wrote:

On 2/11/2014 7:45 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
"Gunner wrote in message
...


Is 16.5 volts "too high" for most 12vt dc devices like Marine radios,
fish finders, GPS devices, CB radios, am/fm/cd players and the like?

All of these are made to work in an auto as well (except the
fish finder and the Marine radio likely), and the voltage in an auto can
get that high, depending on engine RPM and temperature, so I would think
that they likely can. The "12V" is nominal and 14V is more common in a
properly functioning automobile.

Is there an alternator or generator keeping the voltage up in
the battery in the boat? (I somehow missed the original article.)

The bigger Venture 24 has a 9.9 hp Johnson with electric start..so it
has an onboard alternator. No idea of how much current it will sent
back to the batteries as a charging current when its running. So it
may charge fast enough if run for a while. Or not.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...2602/Venture24


The smaller, freshly revamped Ensenada 20 has a rope start 5hp with no
ability to charge, and thats the one I was pondering putting the
16volt battery unit in.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...602/Ensenada20



Yes.


If the voltage is too high..what cheap and easy method is there to
drop the voltage down to 13.5/12vts to run my various electronic
devices? Besides a big as resistor....?


Build a regulator using a 7812 voltage regulator and some 2N3055
transistors. You could also use a LM317 and make output voltage
adjustable. Don't forget the crowbar on the output.

Best Regards
Tom.




Actually, before that he should try to charge them and see if they are
worth all the trouble... How is, of course, the question.

As I noted in my original post..they charge just fine.

What about a simple old fashion automotive regulator that bolted to
the firewall?

The really old ones are for generators, and somewhat newer ones
are for alternators. Both regulate by pulsing on and off the field
current in the respective device, and the battery is a part of the
voltage limiting circuit. The actual voltage is a function of (among
other things) the temperature under the hood, as it affects the
electro-chemical stuff happening in the battery.

Anyway -- those regulators are pretty useless without an
associated generator or alternator. (Is there one in the boat, with a
big engine sitting there cranking the alternator/generator and turning
the prop? I thought that you were working on a sailboat. The ones
which I am familiar with only had a bolt-on outboard for when the wind
died and you needed to get into your mooring.

Correct. Most..not all..but most sailboats of this size have an
outboard. Generally (not always..some are found in 21 footers etc)
inboards (gas or diesel) are in boats 25 foot and up. Many of the
older boats have blown/worn out their inboard engines..so they are
either removed, or an outboard mount is placed on the stern and used.

Sailing into a dock or loading ramp can be interesting..particularly
if there are a number of other boats loading/unloading..so an outboard
,while not necessary..is very damned handy when you can line up, back
out etc etc. And having the ability to motor in to shore if something
unexpected breaks or someone is hurt..can be a life saver.

Enjoy,
DoN.

Gunner

--
"Virtually all members of [radical] groups sincerely believe that
they are fighting the Establishment. In reality they are an indespensible ally
of the Establishment in fastening Socialism on all of us.
The naive radicals think that under Socialism the "people" will run everything.
Actually, it will be a clique of Insiders in total control, consolidating and
controlling all wealth. That is why these schoolboy Lenins and teenage Trotskys
are allowed to roam free and are practically never arrested or prosecuted.
They are protected. If the Establishment wanted the revolutionaries stopped,
how long do you think they would be tolerated?



---
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http://www.avast.com

"Howard Beal" fired this volley in news:ldejo6$rne$1
@speranza.aioe.org:

Build a regulator using a 7812 voltage regulator and some 2N3055
transistors. You could also use a LM317 and make output voltage
adjustable. Don't forget the crowbar on the output.

There are switching style regulators in the same load class. Sure, the
board becomes a little more complex, what with at least one inductor and
a fairly large smoothing capacitor, but its a far better solution for
battery power in the long run. Linear regulators suck for
portable/remote battery operation. Too much energy is thrown away as
heat.


Lloyd

rOn Tue, 11 Feb 2014 18:00:22 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 17:45:58 -0800, "Howard Beal"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
. ..


Is 16.5 volts "too high" for most 12vt dc devices like Marine radios,
fish finders, GPS devices, CB radios, am/fm/cd players and the like?


Yes.


If the voltage is too high..what cheap and easy method is there to
drop the voltage down to 13.5/12vts to run my various electronic
devices? Besides a big as resistor....?


Build a regulator using a 7812 voltage regulator and some 2N3055
transistors. You could also use a LM317 and make output voltage
adjustable. Don't forget the crowbar on the output.

Best Regards
Tom.


Right. Would you have the plans someplace downloadable?

After the stroke..as Ive mentioned before..Ive lost a lot of bits and
pieces..and I drew a complete blank after reading your solution. So
its worse than I thought.

Sorry about that.

Ill need about 10 amps max output. Ive got about 400 amp hours to work
with.

Gunner

Just out of curiosity, where are you getting the 16 VDC? If you are
talking about a solar panel connected to your battery bank, I doubt
that it is ever going to turn your 12 volt battery system into a 16
volt one :-)

At least it didn't on my boat :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Wednesday, February 12, 2014 6:49:51 AM UTC-5, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Howard Beal" fired this volley in news:ldejo6$rne$1

@speranza.aioe.org:
Build a regulator using a 7812 voltage regulator and some 2N3055
transistors. You could also use a LM317 and make output voltage
adjustable. Don't forget the crowbar on the output.

There are switching style regulators in the same load class. Sure, the
board becomes a little more complex, what with at least one inductor and
a fairly large smoothing capacitor, but its a far better solution for
battery power in the long run. Linear regulators suck for
portable/remote battery operation. Too much energy is thrown away as
heat.

Good. I was going to say he could also get a boost switching regulator and use one battery boosted to 13V.
(No, I don't have any circuits in mind.)
George H.



Lloyd

On 2014-02-12, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 12 Feb 2014 06:23:07 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2014-02-12, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 21:24:58 -0600, Richard
wrote:

[ ... ]

Is 16.5 volts "too high" for most 12vt dc devices like Marine radios,
fish finders, GPS devices, CB radios, am/fm/cd players and the like?

All of these are made to work in an auto as well (except the
fish finder and the Marine radio likely), and the voltage in an auto can
get that high, depending on engine RPM and temperature, so I would think
that they likely can. The "12V" is nominal and 14V is more common in a
properly functioning automobile.

Is there an alternator or generator keeping the voltage up in
the battery in the boat? (I somehow missed the original article.)

The bigger Venture 24 has a 9.9 hp Johnson with electric start..so it
has an onboard alternator. No idea of how much current it will sent
back to the batteries as a charging current when its running. So it
may charge fast enough if run for a while. Or not.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...2602/Venture24

O.K. Lead Acid batteries (nominally 12V) will be somewhere over
14.5 volts at times with a hefty alternator or generator pumping them.
(Actually, I had the regulator built into the alternator in a Mazda GLC
fail in such a way as to maximize the charge current. End result --
operation at 18-20V or so, very short life headlamps, and the battery
running so hot that it was boiling out electrolyte, splattering the
underside of the hood. And this was with a nominally 12V battery.

The smaller, freshly revamped Ensenada 20 has a rope start 5hp with no
ability to charge, and thats the one I was pondering putting the
16volt battery unit in.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...602/Ensenada20

That is a link to photos of the boat. I'm more curious about
the battery, if it is being called a 16V battery. The normal lead-acid
batteries are about 2.2 V per cell, so with six cells, that is 13.2 V
(charged but not currently *being* charged.

O.K. I've seen some of these before but still nothing about the
battery. What *is* it? A lead-acid is usually multiples of three
cellls (nominally 6V, 12V, 24V, in reality, higher.) Is this a
lead-acid, or a NiCad, or a NiMH, or what? I presume that you expect to
charge it before each trip. If you're seeing 16V during charging, that
may just mean that the charger is pumping in too much current for normal
charging.

You may have posted more details about the battery before I came
into the thread -- perhaps it was more heavily killfiled, or had a
different subject line which had been killfiled because of too much
political arguing or troll activity. But take it as given that I don't
know what battery you are talking about.

If it actually charges to something like 16V (maybe a battery
for a laptop or something), you can put about three (relatively) high
current silicon rectifiers in series. Expect somewhere around 0.7 or
0.6 V drop per diode, so three would get you down to about 14.2V or
lower, which should be reasonable for all of the equipment you
mentioned. Depending on how much current you are expecting to draw with
everything on at once, you should probably include a heatsink (or mount
them on the centerboard where they get cooled by the water. :-)

[ ... ]

I thought that you were working on a sailboat. The ones
which I am familiar with only had a bolt-on outboard for when the wind
died and you needed to get into your mooring.

Correct. Most..not all..but most sailboats of this size have an
outboard. Generally (not always..some are found in 21 footers etc)
inboards (gas or diesel) are in boats 25 foot and up. Many of the
older boats have blown/worn out their inboard engines..so they are
either removed, or an outboard mount is placed on the stern and used.

Keep them for ballast. :-)

Sailing into a dock or loading ramp can be interesting..particularly
if there are a number of other boats loading/unloading..so an outboard
,while not necessary..is very damned handy when you can line up, back
out etc etc. And having the ability to motor in to shore if something
unexpected breaks or someone is hurt..can be a life saver.

My father prided himself on being able to sail into the slip
without a "gasoline breeze". He had the rest of us trained as a crew.
In the early years, we would shoot a mooring instead, easier than
sailing into a slip

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 13 Feb 2014 04:11:16 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:


The smaller, freshly revamped Ensenada 20 has a rope start 5hp with no
ability to charge, and thats the one I was pondering putting the
16volt battery unit in.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...602/Ensenada20

That is a link to photos of the boat. I'm more curious about
the battery, if it is being called a 16V battery. The normal lead-acid
batteries are about 2.2 V per cell, so with six cells, that is 13.2 V
(charged but not currently *being* charged.

The batteries have (4) cells each.

This is the battery in question. I thought they were Trojans..but I
just went out to look and these are the ones

http://www.powerstridebattery.com/de...e-battery-1330


--
"Virtually all members of [radical] groups sincerely believe that
they are fighting the Establishment. In reality they are an indespensible ally
of the Establishment in fastening Socialism on all of us.
The naive radicals think that under Socialism the "people" will run everything.
Actually, it will be a clique of Insiders in total control, consolidating and
controlling all wealth. That is why these schoolboy Lenins and teenage Trotskys
are allowed to roam free and are practically never arrested or prosecuted.
They are protected. If the Establishment wanted the revolutionaries stopped,
how long do you think they would be tolerated?



---
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On Thu, 13 Feb 2014 02:14:22 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On 13 Feb 2014 04:11:16 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:


The smaller, freshly revamped Ensenada 20 has a rope start 5hp with no
ability to charge, and thats the one I was pondering putting the
16volt battery unit in.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...602/Ensenada20

That is a link to photos of the boat. I'm more curious about
the battery, if it is being called a 16V battery. The normal lead-acid
batteries are about 2.2 V per cell, so with six cells, that is 13.2 V
(charged but not currently *being* charged.

The batteries have (4) cells each.

This is the battery in question. I thought they were Trojans..but I
just went out to look and these are the ones

http://www.powerstridebattery.com/de...e-battery-1330

They are for golf carts, aren't they? Or at least the local marina
has a couple of golf carts that use 8 volt batteries :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

O.K. I've seen some of these before but still nothing about the
battery. What *is* it? A lead-acid is usually multiples of three
cellls (nominally 6V, 12V, 24V, in reality, higher.) Is this a
lead-acid, or a NiCad, or a NiMH, or what? I presume that you
expect to
charge it before each trip. If you're seeing 16V during charging,
that
may just mean that the charger is pumping in too much current for
normal
charging.


8V is a Golf Cart standard:
http://www.amazon.com/Golf-Cart-Batt.../dp/B006RBP68C

On 2014-02-13, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 13 Feb 2014 04:11:16 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:


The smaller, freshly revamped Ensenada 20 has a rope start 5hp with no
ability to charge, and thats the one I was pondering putting the
16volt battery unit in.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...602/Ensenada20

That is a link to photos of the boat. I'm more curious about
the battery, if it is being called a 16V battery. The normal lead-acid
batteries are about 2.2 V per cell, so with six cells, that is 13.2 V
(charged but not currently *being* charged.

The batteries have (4) cells each.

This is the battery in question. I thought they were Trojans..but I
just went out to look and these are the ones

http://www.powerstridebattery.com/de...e-battery-1330

O.K. Special purpose batteries -- for golf carts.

And (assuming that they are lead-acid) you'll find them closer
to 8.8 V each, or 17.6 V for two in series. *That* is a bit hot for the
equipment listed, and yes, a switching type regulator is the best bet in
terms of efficiency. You could live with the power loss in three
silicon rectifiers to drop 16V down to something a bit more comfortable
for the equipment -- Assume 14.4V as a pretty good target, so we have to
get rid of 3.2V with the cells at peak --and as they discharge, you will
benefit from the ability to run at the same voltage with the input
voltage being lower than the output. It would be good to find out *how*
deep they can tolerate, and design the switching regulator to warn at a
bit higher voltage. The web page doesn't show what that minimum voltage
is -- I would suggest that you find out what it will tolerate. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 14 Feb 2014 01:13:13 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2014-02-13, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 13 Feb 2014 04:11:16 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:


The smaller, freshly revamped Ensenada 20 has a rope start 5hp with no
ability to charge, and thats the one I was pondering putting the
16volt battery unit in.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...602/Ensenada20

That is a link to photos of the boat. I'm more curious about
the battery, if it is being called a 16V battery. The normal lead-acid
batteries are about 2.2 V per cell, so with six cells, that is 13.2 V
(charged but not currently *being* charged.

The batteries have (4) cells each.

This is the battery in question. I thought they were Trojans..but I
just went out to look and these are the ones

http://www.powerstridebattery.com/de...e-battery-1330

O.K. Special purpose batteries -- for golf carts.

And (assuming that they are lead-acid) you'll find them closer
to 8.8 V each, or 17.6 V for two in series. *That* is a bit hot for the
equipment listed, and yes, a switching type regulator is the best bet in
terms of efficiency. You could live with the power loss in three
silicon rectifiers to drop 16V down to something a bit more comfortable
for the equipment -- Assume 14.4V as a pretty good target, so we have to
get rid of 3.2V with the cells at peak --and as they discharge, you will
benefit from the ability to run at the same voltage with the input
voltage being lower than the output. It would be good to find out *how*
deep they can tolerate, and design the switching regulator to warn at a
bit higher voltage. The web page doesn't show what that minimum voltage
is -- I would suggest that you find out what it will tolerate. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

Based on standard practices with deep cycle batts..Im figuring that
they can do down to about 6.5 - 7 volts for an 8 volt battery. I
believe that 20% discharge is the normal bottom end for a deep cycle
battery.

Id planned on putting a battery meter on them, mounted in the
"electronics" wall

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50A-4-5-30v-...-/201005375614

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-3-50-30V-...-/201005365635

They are cheap enough..that I could mount two meters..or even 3. One
per individual battery and the third for a combined voltage output.

That way I could keep tabs on individual battery conditions

Gunner


--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."


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On 2/12/2014 2:25 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 12 Feb 2014 06:23:07 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2014-02-12, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 21:24:58 -0600, Richard
wrote:

On 2/11/2014 7:45 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
"Gunner wrote in message
...


Is 16.5 volts "too high" for most 12vt dc devices like Marine radios,
fish finders, GPS devices, CB radios, am/fm/cd players and the like?

Here's a DC to DC converter for $13.15 on Ebay.

http://tinyurl.com/kd9e686

It's good for 15 amps.
The output is adjustable. It is more efficient than a standard linear
regulator. I don't know anything more about it than what it says.
I don't know if spending more gains you anything, if it works, it
works. At that price buy two, one for a spare.
Mikek

On 2014-02-16, amdx wrote:
On 2/12/2014 2:25 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 12 Feb 2014 06:23:07 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2014-02-12, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 21:24:58 -0600, Richard
wrote:

On 2/11/2014 7:45 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
"Gunner wrote in message
...


Is 16.5 volts "too high" for most 12vt dc devices like Marine radios,
fish finders, GPS devices, CB radios, am/fm/cd players and the like?

Here's a DC to DC converter for $13.15 on Ebay.

http://tinyurl.com/kd9e686

Looks pretty good -- as long as the input voltage is higher than
the output voltage.

Sort of a tradeoff with wanting to keep air flowing by the heat
sink fins vs wanting to keep it dry on a boat. :-)

It's good for 15 amps.
The output is adjustable. It is more efficient than a standard linear
regulator. I don't know anything more about it than what it says.

Yes -- much better than a linear regulator (which also would not
work with the input voltage below the output voltage.

So -- it would limit the use of the deep discharge feature of
the batteries -- unless you simply bypass the regulator when the voltage
drops that far. :-)

I don't know if spending more gains you anything, if it works, it
works. At that price buy two, one for a spare.

*Definitely* keep a spare -- in a moisture tight enclosure, os you
can get home if the first one fails.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 22:03:42 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 2/12/2014 2:25 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 12 Feb 2014 06:23:07 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2014-02-12, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 21:24:58 -0600, Richard
wrote:

On 2/11/2014 7:45 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
"Gunner wrote in message
...


Is 16.5 volts "too high" for most 12vt dc devices like Marine radios,
fish finders, GPS devices, CB radios, am/fm/cd players and the like?

Here's a DC to DC converter for $13.15 on Ebay.

http://tinyurl.com/kd9e686

It's good for 15 amps.
The output is adjustable. It is more efficient than a standard linear
regulator. I don't know anything more about it than what it says.
I don't know if spending more gains you anything, if it works, it
works. At that price buy two, one for a spare.
Mikek

Very good price! Massive heatsinks, huh? What's an "insurance tube"?
g


--
The most powerful factors in the world are clear
ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will.
-- J. Arthur Thomson

On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 22:03:42 -0600, amdx wrote:

On 2/12/2014 2:25 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 12 Feb 2014 06:23:07 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2014-02-12, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 21:24:58 -0600, Richard
wrote:

On 2/11/2014 7:45 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
"Gunner wrote in message
...


Is 16.5 volts "too high" for most 12vt dc devices like Marine radios,
fish finders, GPS devices, CB radios, am/fm/cd players and the like?

Here's a DC to DC converter for $13.15 on Ebay.

http://tinyurl.com/kd9e686

It's good for 15 amps.
The output is adjustable. It is more efficient than a standard linear
regulator. I don't know anything more about it than what it says.
I don't know if spending more gains you anything, if it works, it
works. At that price buy two, one for a spare.
Mikek

Thanks! Bookmarked


--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."


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On Saturday, February 15, 2014 11:03:42 PM UTC-5, amdx wrote:



Here's a DC to DC converter for $13.15 on Ebay.



http://tinyurl.com/kd9e686



It's good for 15 amps.


Mikek

Really good solution. Another solution would be to use multiple buck regulators.

Here is an Ebay offering of 5 buck regulators good for 3 amps .

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171127880300... 4.m1439.l2649

Dan

On Sunday, February 16, 2014 12:54:22 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:


Very good price! Massive heatsinks, huh? What's an "insurance tube"?

g



If you look closely at the Pcb, you will find the insurance tube labeled as something else.

Dan

" fired this volley in
:

If you look closely at the Pcb, you will find the insurance tube
labeled as something else.

I didn't catch the preceding messages. Are you talking about those little
glass 'insurance tubes'? G

Lloyd

On Mon, 17 Feb 2014 16:10:42 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

" fired this volley in
:

If you look closely at the Pcb, you will find the insurance tube
labeled as something else.

I didn't catch the preceding messages. Are you talking about those little
glass 'insurance tubes'? G

The 'insurance tube' they were referring to was an ATC fuse on the
board.

--
The most powerful factors in the world are clear
ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will.
-- J. Arthur Thomson