What is the BEST bbq paint? I am redoing a Brinkman smoker, mostly sanded
original paint. Just want something that will take high heat. This is a
smoker, and not a grill, and will be subject to high heat of charcoal. I
know nothing is perfect, but I'd like to have it done so that I don't have
to dink with it for a while. Should I take it and have it powder coated?

Steve

On 25/03/2013 01:43, Steve B wrote:
What is the BEST bbq paint? I am redoing a Brinkman smoker, mostly sanded
original paint. Just want something that will take high heat. This is a
smoker, and not a grill, and will be subject to high heat of charcoal. I
know nothing is perfect, but I'd like to have it done so that I don't have
to dink with it for a while. Should I take it and have it powder coated?

Steve




I imagine powder coating would burn off first time its used.

What about automotive VHT exhaust / extractor paint? Or if its just for
the cover automotive engine enamel?

In article ,
"Steve B" wrote:

What is the BEST bbq paint? I am redoing a Brinkman smoker, mostly sanded
original paint. Just want something that will take high heat. This is a
smoker, and not a grill, and will be subject to high heat of charcoal. I
know nothing is perfect, but I'd like to have it done so that I don't have
to dink with it for a while. Should I take it and have it powder coated?

Steve

Don't know about the paint...

However, when it comes time to get a replacement, spend a few extra
bucks and get a Webber.

They come with a porcelain finish.

I have one of their little 'Smokey Joe' BBQ's thats been in the elements
for 25 years or so. Other than it's wood handle being badly weathered,
and 3 1/4-20 leg bolts that should probably be replaced, it looks and
works great!

Since new it's probably averaged 2 uses a month, year round, and now has
a 3/16" layer of burned on grease/smoke that acts as a wonderful
insulator.

I replaced the grill rack a few years ago. Believe it or not, HD had the
for real Webber replacement in stock... nice heavy, well made, well
plated.

Good luck!

Erik

Steve B wrote:
What is the BEST bbq paint? I am redoing a Brinkman smoker, mostly sanded
original paint. Just want something that will take high heat. This is a
smoker, and not a grill, and will be subject to high heat of charcoal. I
know nothing is perfect, but I'd like to have it done so that I don't have
to dink with it for a while. Should I take it and have it powder coated?

Steve



Powder won't take the heat. The only spray on stuff that I have used that held up long was
Forrest Paints Stove Bright. The key to it is to apply THIN coats, then cure the paint
by heating the unit up to around 400 degrees and keeping it therefor a while, then
cranking it up to 600 for a while longer.

One way to keep the paint in better shape is to install a double wall either inside or
outside the current sides. One of my fist small smokers was a simple box type. It worked
but any breeze would make the temps bounce. I ended up getting some high temp insulation
and wrapping it. Then made a stainless shell around that. Temp control is MUCH better and
it uses less fuel as well. When I built my bigger ones I used the same idea where I could.


--
Steve W.

"Steve B" fired this volley in news:kioo5i$nfl$1
@speranza.aioe.org:

This is a
smoker, and not a grill, and will be subject to high heat of charcoal.

Willy Wonka had something to say about statements like that! G

You didn't say what the underlying metal was, but if you have a way to
actually bring the whole thing up to temperatures high enough to cure it,
you might consider manifold paint.

LLoyd

On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 22:43:15 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

What is the BEST bbq paint? I am redoing a Brinkman smoker, mostly sanded
original paint. Just want something that will take high heat. This is a
smoker, and not a grill, and will be subject to high heat of charcoal. I
know nothing is perfect, but I'd like to have it done so that I don't have
to dink with it for a while. Should I take it and have it powder coated?

Steve

Rustoleum makes..or used to make a high temperature BBQ paint just for
this repair. Id imagine its similar to exhaust manifold paint, of
which several are ceramic based paints. Ive done a number of BBQs over
the past 40 yrs..and I started using the BBQ paint about 20 yrs ago
with very good luck

Gunner

On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 22:43:15 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

What is the BEST bbq paint? I am redoing a Brinkman smoker, mostly sanded
original paint. Just want something that will take high heat. This is a
smoker, and not a grill, and will be subject to high heat of charcoal. I
know nothing is perfect, but I'd like to have it done so that I don't have
to dink with it for a while. Should I take it and have it powder coated?

Steve


Kylon 1300* Ceramic header paint is supposed to be better than
Rustoleum. A quick google confirmed it to be better according to many
home shop mechanics

Cerakote is marvelous stuff according to a mechanic buddy..but its not
cheap.

http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/

Supposedly the best bang for the buck is this stuff

http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintd...mperature.aspx

the VHT Flame Proof.

No idea if it really works as advertised or not.

Gunner

On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 22:43:15 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

What is the BEST bbq paint? I am redoing a Brinkman smoker, mostly sanded
original paint. Just want something that will take high heat. This is a
smoker, and not a grill, and will be subject to high heat of charcoal. I
know nothing is perfect, but I'd like to have it done so that I don't have
to dink with it for a while. Should I take it and have it powder coated?

Steve

Definitely NOT powder coat. What you want is a ceramic coating.
Ceramicoat header paint would likely work pretty good if you can do
the prep work right - otherwise send it out for "Jet Coat" ceramic
coating or equivalent.

"Steve B" wrote in message ...
What is the BEST bbq paint? I am redoing a Brinkman smoker, mostly sanded
original paint. Just want something that will take high heat. This is a
smoker, and not a grill, and will be subject to high heat of charcoal. I
know nothing is perfect, but I'd like to have it done so that I don't have
to dink with it for a while. Should I take it and have it powder coated?



Suggest go with the powder coat.

Also, sprinkle some arsenic on your food before smoking....yum yum, magically delicious...

On Mar 25, 6:21*pm, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:
"Steve B" wrote in ...
What is the BEST bbq paint? *I am redoing a Brinkman smoker, mostly sanded
original paint. *Just want something that will take high heat. *This is a
smoker, and not a grill, and will be subject to high heat of charcoal. *I
know nothing is perfect, but I'd like to have it done so that I don't have
to dink with it for a while. *Should I take it and have it powder coated?

Suggest go with the powder coat.

Also, sprinkle some arsenic on your food before smoking....yum yum, magically delicious...

Steve B should buy some lead paint from iggy. This way he can save a
lot of money.

On Mar 24, 11:43*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
What is the BEST bbq paint? *I am redoing a Brinkman smoker, mostly sanded
original paint. *Just want something that will take high heat. *This is a
smoker, and not a grill, and will be subject to high heat of charcoal. *I
know nothing is perfect, but I'd like to have it done so that I don't have
to dink with it for a while. *Should I take it and have it powder coated?

Steve

Is it going to sit in exposed conditions all the time? Or is it under
cover? Some of the BBQ paint works well for heat but sucks for
keeping rust away if it's rained on/snowed on all the time. To get a
proper cure, it ALL has to get run up to 500-600 degrees, not just the
parts around the fire box. A heat lamp just isn't going to do it. If
it's not all cured to the same degree, eventually it flakes off. The
best stuff you can't get anymore, CA CARB regs killed it for the rest
of the country. Best stuff I've used recently was for car/truck
exhausts and was rated to 1500 degrees, Krylon is what you'll find
most places. Miot every other brand is gone from the market. Check
your local car parts place. Ceramic coating seems to be the fad of
the day, haven't used it myself.

Powder coating isn't magic, it's just plastic of one form or another
and will char off if heated, if rust doesn't get under it first. Good
for aluminum trim parts, though.

Stan

On Mar 26, 2:26*pm, Stanley Schaefer wrote:
On Mar 24, 11:43*pm, "Steve B" wrote:

What is the BEST bbq paint? *I am redoing a Brinkman smoker, mostly sanded
original paint. *Just want something that will take high heat. *This is a
smoker, and not a grill, and will be subject to high heat of charcoal. *I
know nothing is perfect, but I'd like to have it done so that I don't have
to dink with it for a while. *Should I take it and have it powder coated?

Steve

Is it going to sit in exposed conditions all the time? Or is it under
cover? *Some of the BBQ paint works well for heat but sucks for
keeping rust away if it's rained on/snowed on all the time. *To get a
proper cure, it ALL has to get run up to 500-600 degrees, not just the
parts around the fire box. *A heat lamp just isn't going to do it. If
it's not all cured to the same degree, eventually it flakes off. *The
best stuff you can't get anymore, CA CARB regs killed it for the rest
of the country. *Best stuff I've used recently was for car/truck
exhausts and was rated to 1500 degrees, Krylon is what you'll find
most places. *Miot every other brand is gone from the market. *Check
your local car parts place. *Ceramic coating seems to be the fad of
the day, haven't used it myself.

Powder coating isn't magic, it's just plastic of one form or another
and will char off if heated, if rust doesn't get under it first. *Good
for aluminum trim parts, though.

Stan

Power coating is good for a hell of a lot more than aluminum parts!
For example, powder coating is great on steel car and motorcycle
frames.

Powder coating is far more durable than the best polyurethane paint
(If you're old like me think Dupont Imron) because it doesn't chip
nearly as easily.

jon_banquer wrote:
Powder coating isn't magic, it's just plastic of one form or another
and will char off if heated, if rust doesn't get under it first. Good
for aluminum trim parts, though.

Stan

Power coating is good for a hell of a lot more than aluminum parts!
For example, powder coating is great on steel car and motorcycle
frames.

Powder coating is far more durable than the best polyurethane paint
(If you're old like me think Dupont Imron) because it doesn't chip
nearly as easily.


SOME powder types will resist impact well. Others will chip and fail easily.
A lot of the durability of both relies on the substrate and surface prep.
If done correctly a good liquid will last as long as a good powder.

There are some areas where powder has the edge. Ease of application, reuse of over spray,
environmental concerns being the big ones.

In the case of a BBQ, any conventional powder would be off the list before it started.
Now if you wanted to add in ceramics or metal sprays then those "powders" would work. BUT
this is not a high dollar unit and I'm doubtful if the OP wants to spend about 5 times
what his smoker costs new to paint the old one.

--
Steve W.

On Mar 26, 9:44*pm, "Steve W." wrote:
jon_banquer wrote:
Powder coating isn't magic, it's just plastic of one form or another
and will char off if heated, if rust doesn't get under it first. *Good
for aluminum trim parts, though.

Stan

Power coating is good for a hell of a lot more than aluminum parts!
For example, powder coating is great on steel car and motorcycle
frames.

Powder coating is far more durable than the best polyurethane paint
(If you're old like me think Dupont Imron) because it doesn't chip
nearly as easily.

SOME powder types will resist impact well. Others will chip and fail easily.
A lot of the durability of both relies on the substrate and surface prep.
If done correctly a good liquid will last as long as a good powder.

There are some areas where powder has the edge. Ease of application, reuse of over spray,
environmental concerns being the big ones.

In the case of a BBQ, any conventional powder would be off the list before it started.
Now if you wanted to add in ceramics or metal sprays then those "powders" would work. BUT
this is not a high dollar unit and I'm doubtful if the OP wants to spend about 5 times
what his smoker costs new to paint the old one.

--
Steve W.

The OP is a clueless moron who takes up space.

The BBQ paint is high temp paint. Gosh 400 degrees is
powder coat temp and you might have a liquid surface with powder.

I think the BBQ paint is similar or the same as Header paint.
Ceramic based color.

Martin

On 3/26/2013 11:44 PM, Steve W. wrote:
jon_banquer wrote:
Powder coating isn't magic, it's just plastic of one form or another
and will char off if heated, if rust doesn't get under it first. Good
for aluminum trim parts, though.

Stan

Power coating is good for a hell of a lot more than aluminum parts!
For example, powder coating is great on steel car and motorcycle
frames.

Powder coating is far more durable than the best polyurethane paint
(If you're old like me think Dupont Imron) because it doesn't chip
nearly as easily.


SOME powder types will resist impact well. Others will chip and fail
easily.
A lot of the durability of both relies on the substrate and surface prep.
If done correctly a good liquid will last as long as a good powder.

There are some areas where powder has the edge. Ease of application,
reuse of over spray, environmental concerns being the big ones.

In the case of a BBQ, any conventional powder would be off the list
before it started.
Now if you wanted to add in ceramics or metal sprays then those
"powders" would work. BUT this is not a high dollar unit and I'm
doubtful if the OP wants to spend about 5 times what his smoker costs
new to paint the old one.