Thread: BBQ paint
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jon_banquer[_2_] jon_banquer[_2_] is offline
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Default BBQ paint

On Mar 26, 2:26*pm, Stanley Schaefer wrote:
On Mar 24, 11:43*pm, "Steve B" wrote:

What is the BEST bbq paint? *I am redoing a Brinkman smoker, mostly sanded
original paint. *Just want something that will take high heat. *This is a
smoker, and not a grill, and will be subject to high heat of charcoal. *I
know nothing is perfect, but I'd like to have it done so that I don't have
to dink with it for a while. *Should I take it and have it powder coated?


Steve


Is it going to sit in exposed conditions all the time? Or is it under
cover? *Some of the BBQ paint works well for heat but sucks for
keeping rust away if it's rained on/snowed on all the time. *To get a
proper cure, it ALL has to get run up to 500-600 degrees, not just the
parts around the fire box. *A heat lamp just isn't going to do it. If
it's not all cured to the same degree, eventually it flakes off. *The
best stuff you can't get anymore, CA CARB regs killed it for the rest
of the country. *Best stuff I've used recently was for car/truck
exhausts and was rated to 1500 degrees, Krylon is what you'll find
most places. *Miot every other brand is gone from the market. *Check
your local car parts place. *Ceramic coating seems to be the fad of
the day, haven't used it myself.

Powder coating isn't magic, it's just plastic of one form or another
and will char off if heated, if rust doesn't get under it first. *Good
for aluminum trim parts, though.

Stan


Power coating is good for a hell of a lot more than aluminum parts!
For example, powder coating is great on steel car and motorcycle
frames.

Powder coating is far more durable than the best polyurethane paint
(If you're old like me think Dupont Imron) because it doesn't chip
nearly as easily.