I put a collet holder chuck in the noname mill drill a while back and
it works great. A lot faster and easier than constantly tightening
and loosening the drawbar whenever I change anything. Its got a nice
collet closer wrench and a couple flats on the body that I can throw a
regualr wrench on to tighten and loosen quickly and easily. I like it
so much I bought a similar one for the RF30. It works pretty good,
but there are no flats on the body for a wrench. That means I still
have to flip the top and hold the pulley when tightening up a collet.
Its tight enough for the small stuff, but when I was doing some heavy
(for me) face milling with a 1" end mill I found that it seemed to
walk up in the collet. Holding the pulley I really have no way to
judge how tight I am making the collet, so I figured I'ld mill a
couple flats body of the collet chuck so I can use a wrench like the
one in the smaller mill drill. (never had a mill move in that one)
Any suggestions?

I mean besides going back to using the straight R8 collets. Obviously
I'll have to use them to mill my flats, but then... For the most part
the convenience of using the collet chuck is a HUGE time saver.

On Mon, 30 Apr 2012 09:23:55 -0700, Bob La Londe wrote:

I put a collet holder chuck in the noname mill drill a while back and it
works great. A lot faster and easier than constantly tightening and
loosening the drawbar whenever I change anything. Its got a nice collet
closer wrench and a couple flats on the body that I can throw a regualr
wrench on to tighten and loosen quickly and easily. I like it so much I
bought a similar one for the RF30. It works pretty good, but there are
no flats on the body for a wrench. That means I still have to flip the
top and hold the pulley when tightening up a collet. Its tight enough
for the small stuff, but when I was doing some heavy (for me) face
milling with a 1" end mill I found that it seemed to walk up in the
collet. Holding the pulley I really have no way to judge how tight I am
making the collet, so I figured I'ld mill a couple flats body of the
collet chuck so I can use a wrench like the one in the smaller mill
drill. (never had a mill move in that one) Any suggestions?

I mean besides going back to using the straight R8 collets. Obviously
I'll have to use them to mill my flats, but then... For the most part
the convenience of using the collet chuck is a HUGE time saver.

That part doesn't need to be hardened to a fair-thee-well, so it may not
be "tool steel" per se. Can you file it? If so it's not that hard and,
you should be able to mill it with HSS. If a file skates, or if you
don't have a rigid enough machine to make it work, can you get at it with
a bench grinder? Can you disassemble the thing and _then_ get at it with
a bench grinder (this would relieve any anxiety about getting grit into
the works).

You don't really need flats -- it may be easier to get a nice hard drill
bit and make a few holes, then make a matching wrench (I don't know what
you call it, but it would be one with a semicircular gullet and a
reasonably hard pin that matches the diameter of the hole).

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

On 04/30/2012 09:55 AM, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Mon, 30 Apr 2012 09:23:55 -0700, Bob La Londe wrote:

I put a collet holder chuck in the noname mill drill a while back and it
works great. A lot faster and easier than constantly tightening and
loosening the drawbar whenever I change anything. Its got a nice collet
closer wrench and a couple flats on the body that I can throw a regualr
wrench on to tighten and loosen quickly and easily. I like it so much I
bought a similar one for the RF30. It works pretty good, but there are
no flats on the body for a wrench. That means I still have to flip the
top and hold the pulley when tightening up a collet. Its tight enough
for the small stuff, but when I was doing some heavy (for me) face
milling with a 1" end mill I found that it seemed to walk up in the
collet. Holding the pulley I really have no way to judge how tight I am
making the collet, so I figured I'ld mill a couple flats body of the
collet chuck so I can use a wrench like the one in the smaller mill
drill. (never had a mill move in that one) Any suggestions?

I mean besides going back to using the straight R8 collets. Obviously
I'll have to use them to mill my flats, but then... For the most part
the convenience of using the collet chuck is a HUGE time saver.

That part doesn't need to be hardened to a fair-thee-well, so it may not
be "tool steel" per se. Can you file it? If so it's not that hard and,
you should be able to mill it with HSS. If a file skates, or if you
don't have a rigid enough machine to make it work, can you get at it with
a bench grinder? Can you disassemble the thing and _then_ get at it with
a bench grinder (this would relieve any anxiety about getting grit into
the works).

You don't really need flats -- it may be easier to get a nice hard drill
bit and make a few holes, then make a matching wrench (I don't know what
you call it, but it would be one with a semicircular gullet and a
reasonably hard pin that matches the diameter of the hole).


I think that fits the def. of "spanner" wrench.

bill

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
...I like it
so much I bought a similar one for the RF30. It works pretty good,
but there are no flats on the body for a wrench.


Were they accidentally left off, or does it have pin wrench holes? Do
you have a catalog picture?

I'd rough it to within about 0.005" with an angle grinder and then
surface-grind the flats parallel.

A rubber strap wrench might have enough grip.

jsw

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
I put a collet holder chuck in the noname mill drill a while back and
it works great. A lot faster and easier than constantly tightening
and loosening the drawbar whenever I change anything. Its got a nice
collet closer wrench and a couple flats on the body that I can throw a
regualr wrench on to tighten and loosen quickly and easily. I like it
so much I bought a similar one for the RF30. It works pretty good,
but there are no flats on the body for a wrench. That means I still
have to flip the top and hold the pulley when tightening up a collet.
Its tight enough for the small stuff, but when I was doing some heavy
(for me) face milling with a 1" end mill I found that it seemed to
walk up in the collet. Holding the pulley I really have no way to
judge how tight I am making the collet, so I figured I'ld mill a
couple flats body of the collet chuck so I can use a wrench like the
one in the smaller mill drill. (never had a mill move in that one)
Any suggestions?

I mean besides going back to using the straight R8 collets. Obviously
I'll have to use them to mill my flats, but then... For the most part
the convenience of using the collet chuck is a HUGE time saver.

Well a file just barely cut it, but it did. HSS was however not up to the
job. I cut it with a 1/4 solid carbide end mill. Ok two of them. When I
got a little impatient and tried to hurry it broke the cutting edges right
off. I also noticed when it was "WET" with oil it cut, but when it looked
even a little dry I could hear it impacting. Had to hit it with a few drops
of oil every 1/8" or so.

I'd coolant flood and grind the flats.
A surface grinder would do it nicely.
You don't want to heat the part or it might fracture or loose strength.

Martin

On 4/30/2012 11:23 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I put a collet holder chuck in the noname mill drill a while back and
it works great. A lot faster and easier than constantly tightening
and loosening the drawbar whenever I change anything. Its got a nice
collet closer wrench and a couple flats on the body that I can throw a
regualr wrench on to tighten and loosen quickly and easily. I like it
so much I bought a similar one for the RF30. It works pretty good,
but there are no flats on the body for a wrench. That means I still
have to flip the top and hold the pulley when tightening up a collet.
Its tight enough for the small stuff, but when I was doing some heavy
(for me) face milling with a 1" end mill I found that it seemed to
walk up in the collet. Holding the pulley I really have no way to
judge how tight I am making the collet, so I figured I'ld mill a
couple flats body of the collet chuck so I can use a wrench like the
one in the smaller mill drill. (never had a mill move in that one)
Any suggestions?

I mean besides going back to using the straight R8 collets. Obviously
I'll have to use them to mill my flats, but then... For the most part
the convenience of using the collet chuck is a HUGE time saver.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
I put a collet holder chuck in the noname mill drill a while back and
it works great. A lot faster and easier than constantly tightening
and loosening the drawbar whenever I change anything. Its got a nice
collet closer wrench and a couple flats on the body that I can throw a
regualr wrench on to tighten and loosen quickly and easily. I like it
so much I bought a similar one for the RF30. It works pretty good,
but there are no flats on the body for a wrench. That means I still
have to flip the top and hold the pulley when tightening up a collet.
Its tight enough for the small stuff, but when I was doing some heavy
(for me) face milling with a 1" end mill I found that it seemed to
walk up in the collet. Holding the pulley I really have no way to
judge how tight I am making the collet, so I figured I'ld mill a
couple flats body of the collet chuck so I can use a wrench like the
one in the smaller mill drill. (never had a mill move in that one)
Any suggestions?

I mean besides going back to using the straight R8 collets. Obviously
I'll have to use them to mill my flats, but then... For the most part
the convenience of using the collet chuck is a HUGE time saver.

Well a file just barely cut it, but it did. HSS was however not up to the
job. I cut it with a 1/4 solid carbide end mill. Ok two of them. When I
got a little impatient and tried to hurry it broke the cutting edges right
off. I also noticed when it was "WET" with oil it cut, but when it looked
even a little dry I could hear it impacting. Had to hit it with a few
drops of oil every 1/8" or so.

Oh! Its so nice to be able to put a wrench on it, and tighten it up right.

I have to say I have a lot more respect for you old farts who stood there
for hours turning the handles on a mill so slow. I can also appreciate that
comments about "feeling" when its right. When it felt right it I could just
watch the chips pile up.

Bill Martin Inscribed thus:

On 04/30/2012 09:55 AM, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Mon, 30 Apr 2012 09:23:55 -0700, Bob La Londe wrote:

I put a collet holder chuck in the noname mill drill a while back
and it
works great. A lot faster and easier than constantly tightening and
loosening the drawbar whenever I change anything. Its got a nice
collet closer wrench and a couple flats on the body that I can throw
a regualr
wrench on to tighten and loosen quickly and easily. I like it so
much I
bought a similar one for the RF30. It works pretty good, but there
are
no flats on the body for a wrench. That means I still have to flip
the top and hold the pulley when tightening up a collet. Its tight
enough for the small stuff, but when I was doing some heavy (for me)
face milling with a 1" end mill I found that it seemed to walk up in
the
collet. Holding the pulley I really have no way to judge how tight
I am making the collet, so I figured I'ld mill a couple flats body
of the collet chuck so I can use a wrench like the one in the
smaller mill
drill. (never had a mill move in that one) Any suggestions?

I mean besides going back to using the straight R8 collets.
Obviously
I'll have to use them to mill my flats, but then... For the most
part the convenience of using the collet chuck is a HUGE time saver.

That part doesn't need to be hardened to a fair-thee-well, so it may
not
be "tool steel" per se. Can you file it? If so it's not that hard
and,
you should be able to mill it with HSS. If a file skates, or if you
don't have a rigid enough machine to make it work, can you get at it
with
a bench grinder? Can you disassemble the thing and _then_ get at it
with a bench grinder (this would relieve any anxiety about getting
grit into the works).

You don't really need flats -- it may be easier to get a nice hard
drill bit and make a few holes, then make a matching wrench (I don't
know what you call it, but it would be one with a semicircular gullet
and a reasonably hard pin that matches the diameter of the hole).


I think that fits the def. of "spanner" wrench.

bill

Try "Pin Wrench"

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

On 5/1/2012 12:44 PM, Baron wrote:
Bill Martin Inscribed thus:

On 04/30/2012 09:55 AM, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Mon, 30 Apr 2012 09:23:55 -0700, Bob La Londe wrote:

I put a collet holder chuck in the noname mill drill a while back
and it
works great. A lot faster and easier than constantly tightening and
loosening the drawbar whenever I change anything. Its got a nice
collet closer wrench and a couple flats on the body that I can throw
a regualr
wrench on to tighten and loosen quickly and easily. I like it so
much I
bought a similar one for the RF30. It works pretty good, but there
are
no flats on the body for a wrench. That means I still have to flip
the top and hold the pulley when tightening up a collet. Its tight
enough for the small stuff, but when I was doing some heavy (for me)
face milling with a 1" end mill I found that it seemed to walk up in
the
collet. Holding the pulley I really have no way to judge how tight
I am making the collet, so I figured I'ld mill a couple flats body
of the collet chuck so I can use a wrench like the one in the
smaller mill
drill. (never had a mill move in that one) Any suggestions?

I mean besides going back to using the straight R8 collets.
Obviously
I'll have to use them to mill my flats, but then... For the most
part the convenience of using the collet chuck is a HUGE time saver.

That part doesn't need to be hardened to a fair-thee-well, so it may
not
be "tool steel" per se. Can you file it? If so it's not that hard
and,
you should be able to mill it with HSS. If a file skates, or if you
don't have a rigid enough machine to make it work, can you get at it
with
a bench grinder? Can you disassemble the thing and _then_ get at it
with a bench grinder (this would relieve any anxiety about getting
grit into the works).

You don't really need flats -- it may be easier to get a nice hard
drill bit and make a few holes, then make a matching wrench (I don't
know what you call it, but it would be one with a semicircular gullet
and a reasonably hard pin that matches the diameter of the hole).


I think that fits the def. of "spanner" wrench.

bill

Try "Pin Wrench"


No-NO-NO! The proper name is "Doohickey Wrench With A Tit On The End"

Tom Gardner Inscribed thus:

On 5/1/2012 12:44 PM, Baron wrote:
Bill Martin Inscribed thus:

On 04/30/2012 09:55 AM, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Mon, 30 Apr 2012 09:23:55 -0700, Bob La Londe wrote:

I put a collet holder chuck in the noname mill drill a while back
and it
works great. A lot faster and easier than constantly tightening
and
loosening the drawbar whenever I change anything. Its got a nice
collet closer wrench and a couple flats on the body that I can
throw a regualr
wrench on to tighten and loosen quickly and easily. I like it so
much I
bought a similar one for the RF30. It works pretty good, but
there are
no flats on the body for a wrench. That means I still have to
flip the top and hold the pulley when tightening up a collet. Its
tight enough for the small stuff, but when I was doing some heavy
(for me) face milling with a 1" end mill I found that it seemed to
walk up in the
collet. Holding the pulley I really have no way to judge how
tight I am making the collet, so I figured I'ld mill a couple
flats body of the collet chuck so I can use a wrench like the one
in the smaller mill
drill. (never had a mill move in that one) Any suggestions?

I mean besides going back to using the straight R8 collets.
Obviously
I'll have to use them to mill my flats, but then... For the most
part the convenience of using the collet chuck is a HUGE time
saver.

That part doesn't need to be hardened to a fair-thee-well, so it
may not
be "tool steel" per se. Can you file it? If so it's not that hard
and,
you should be able to mill it with HSS. If a file skates, or if
you don't have a rigid enough machine to make it work, can you get
at it with
a bench grinder? Can you disassemble the thing and _then_ get at
it with a bench grinder (this would relieve any anxiety about
getting grit into the works).

You don't really need flats -- it may be easier to get a nice hard
drill bit and make a few holes, then make a matching wrench (I
don't know what you call it, but it would be one with a
semicircular gullet and a reasonably hard pin that matches the
diameter of the hole).


I think that fits the def. of "spanner" wrench.

bill

Try "Pin Wrench"


No-NO-NO! The proper name is "Doohickey Wrench With A Tit On The End"

Ah right ! :-)

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

On Wed, 02 May 2012 23:14:37 +0100, Baron wrote:

Tom Gardner Inscribed thus:

On 5/1/2012 12:44 PM, Baron wrote:
Bill Martin Inscribed thus:

On 04/30/2012 09:55 AM, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Mon, 30 Apr 2012 09:23:55 -0700, Bob La Londe wrote:

I put a collet holder chuck in the noname mill drill a while back
and it
works great. A lot faster and easier than constantly tightening
and
loosening the drawbar whenever I change anything. Its got a nice
collet closer wrench and a couple flats on the body that I can
throw a regualr
wrench on to tighten and loosen quickly and easily. I like it so
much I
bought a similar one for the RF30. It works pretty good, but
there are
no flats on the body for a wrench. That means I still have to
flip the top and hold the pulley when tightening up a collet. Its
tight enough for the small stuff, but when I was doing some heavy
(for me) face milling with a 1" end mill I found that it seemed to
walk up in the
collet. Holding the pulley I really have no way to judge how
tight I am making the collet, so I figured I'ld mill a couple
flats body of the collet chuck so I can use a wrench like the one
in the smaller mill
drill. (never had a mill move in that one) Any suggestions?

I mean besides going back to using the straight R8 collets.
Obviously
I'll have to use them to mill my flats, but then... For the most
part the convenience of using the collet chuck is a HUGE time
saver.

That part doesn't need to be hardened to a fair-thee-well, so it
may not
be "tool steel" per se. Can you file it? If so it's not that hard
and,
you should be able to mill it with HSS. If a file skates, or if
you don't have a rigid enough machine to make it work, can you get
at it with
a bench grinder? Can you disassemble the thing and _then_ get at
it with a bench grinder (this would relieve any anxiety about
getting grit into the works).

You don't really need flats -- it may be easier to get a nice hard
drill bit and make a few holes, then make a matching wrench (I
don't know what you call it, but it would be one with a
semicircular gullet and a reasonably hard pin that matches the
diameter of the hole).


I think that fits the def. of "spanner" wrench.

bill

Try "Pin Wrench"


No-NO-NO! The proper name is "Doohickey Wrench With A Tit On The End"

Ah right ! :-)

Or "tits"



"Usenet is like a herd of performing elephants with diarrhea -- massive,
difficult to redirect, awe-inspiring, entertaining, and a source of mind
boggling amounts of excrement when you least expect it."

--Gene Spafford, 1992

"Usenet is like a herd of performing elephants with diarrhea -- massive,
difficult to redirect, awe-inspiring, entertaining, and a source of mind
boggling amounts of excrement when you least expect it."

--Gene Spafford, 1992

so true...

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Wed, 02 May 2012 23:14:37 +0100, Baron wrote:

Tom Gardner Inscribed thus:

No-NO-NO! The proper name is "Doohickey Wrench With A Tit On The End"

Ah right ! :-)

Or "tits"


If you have the complete set. ;-)


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

"Michael A. Terrell" on Mon, 07 May 2012
01:50:01 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Wed, 02 May 2012 23:14:37 +0100, Baron wrote:

Tom Gardner Inscribed thus:

No-NO-NO! The proper name is "Doohickey Wrench With A Tit On The End"

Ah right ! :-)

Or "tits"


If you have the complete set. ;-)

Arrgh! A doohickey wrench is for tightening the "doohickey" in a
lamp.

What you're thinking about is the thing gummy wrench with the two
pins. The one with the tits is a Dagmar.
--
pyotr
Go not to the Net for answers, for it will tell you Yes and no. And
you are a bloody fool, only an ignorant cretin would even ask the
question, forty two, 47, the second door, and how many blonde lawyers
does it take to change a lightbulb.