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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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milling 3/16" slot 1.25" deep in steel
I set my bridgeport up to cut a thin slot in a piece of steel. So far I
have only broken bits. I dont know much about hardness but the material I am using has a black coating. Not sure what that is. But I started off with a 1/8" endmill taking very light cut at a very slow speed. I am having no luck. Additionally, I need my slot to be deeper than the endmill itself. What I am doing is setting up a 2 brackets to hold a 1/8" x 1.25" x 12" long cutting bar. I am sure there has to be an easier way but it might take more pieces than cutting from one. Any suggestions? Thanks |
#2
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milling 3/16" slot 1.25" deep in steel
gtslabs wrote:
I set my bridgeport up to cut a thin slot in a piece of steel. So far I have only broken bits. I dont know much about hardness but the material I am using has a black coating. Not sure what that is. But I started off with a 1/8" endmill taking very light cut at a very slow speed. I am having no luck. Additionally, I need my slot to be deeper than the endmill itself. What I am doing is setting up a 2 brackets to hold a 1/8" x 1.25" x 12" long cutting bar. I am sure there has to be an easier way but it might take more pieces than cutting from one. Any suggestions? Thanks If the slots are open ended, couldn't you just use a slitting saw? And if they're not, maybe you could make them that way anyway and silver solder some 1/8" thick stops at the ends? Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented." |
#3
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milling 3/16" slot 1.25" deep in steel
I assume you mean a slow feed rate, but not a slow cutter rotational
rate--- My amatuer calculations say that end mill should be run at 3200 rpm if stock is mild steel and mill is HSS. I read somewhere that the main cause of small drill bit breakage is running them too slow. I suppose the same thing would go for your end mill. As far as hardness of your material goes, simply use a good file and compare the unknown material's "fileability" with known hard or soft stuff. If your mystery metal is a lot harder to cut than some mild steel, toss it and get some known material. But: I would simply make the part from 3 pieces and bolt them together. The center piece would be the 1/8" thick material that would space out the outer sides. Hope this makes sense, Pete Stanaitis -------------------------- gtslabs wrote: I set my bridgeport up to cut a thin slot in a piece of steel. So far I have only broken bits. I dont know much about hardness but the material I am using has a black coating. Not sure what that is. But I started off with a 1/8" endmill taking very light cut at a very slow speed. I am having no luck. Additionally, I need my slot to be deeper than the endmill itself. What I am doing is setting up a 2 brackets to hold a 1/8" x 1.25" x 12" long cutting bar. I am sure there has to be an easier way but it might take more pieces than cutting from one. Any suggestions? Thanks |
#4
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milling 3/16" slot 1.25" deep in steel
You certainly can mill a slot that width to that depth, but it is going
to take extended length cutters. Long cutters chatter, especially when cutting around their entire perimeter in a slot. Carbide cutters work better when dealing with difficult length to diameter ratios because they are stiffer. You just have to be careful with carbide not to chatter them or they loose their edge. I might take .010" at a pass, at about 5 IPM and 2500 RPM, keeping the slot clear of chips with air or flood coolant. If you make your cut, then make it again shifted over a few thou in Y both ways, you will keep the cutter from contacting the side walls as you get further down, to avoid chatter. You can cut hard steel this way, so long at it isn't full hard. Crappy steel, with hard inclusions (chrome chips from the bumper it was made from, ha!) is where I get into trouble. I would expect it to take a while to do this, and I wouldn't be surprised to go through a cutter or two. |
#5
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milling 3/16" slot 1.25" deep in steel
According to gtslabs :
I set my bridgeport up to cut a thin slot in a piece of steel. So far I have only broken bits. I dont know much about hardness but the material I am using has a black coating. Not sure what that is. But I started off with a 1/8" endmill taking very light cut at a very slow speed. I am having no luck. Additionally, I need my slot to be deeper than the endmill itself. That is a serious problem, and takes *lots* of patience, and lots of coolant or air blast to keep the chips cleared out -- *if* you insist in doing it with an end mill. What I would use for the task is my old horizontal spindle milling machine, with a conventional milling cutter (wheel sort of like a saw blade) to do the cutting. The smallest ones which fit my machine are 3" diameter, with the spacers on the arbor being about 1-1/2" diameter, so those would not reach to the bottom of your cut (barely 3/4" -- so the spacers would drag on the workpiece before you reached the full depth), *but* there are larger cutters. I have a couple which are 6" diameter. The ones which you really want for this are the staggered-tooth ones, one tooth cuts the center and one side, the other cuts the center and the other side. And, they are available in various thicknesses. What they do not do well is produce neat ends of the cuts -- it will curve up to the surface at either end. However, if your slot needs to go from one end to the other of the workpiece, it will work quite well. With your Bridgeport, you have a choice of a horizontal adaptor (a right-angle head, an arbor, and a clamp on the dovetails of the ram), or a stub arbor. The first choice would be the better in terms of rigidity -- *if* it can handle a cutter over 4" in diameter. What I am doing is setting up a 2 brackets to hold a 1/8" x 1.25" x 12" long cutting bar. I am sure there has to be an easier way but it might take more pieces than cutting from one. It sounds as though the slots go to the end of the brackets, in which case the conventional milling cutter should work quite well. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#6
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milling 3/16" slot 1.25" deep in steel
gtslabs wrote:
I set my bridgeport up to cut a thin slot in a piece of steel. So far I have only broken bits. I dont know much about hardness but the material I am using has a black coating. Not sure what that is. But I started off with a 1/8" endmill taking very light cut at a very slow speed. I am having no luck. Additionally, I need my slot to be deeper than the endmill itself. What I am doing is setting up a 2 brackets to hold a 1/8" x 1.25" x 12" long cutting bar. I am sure there has to be an easier way but it might take more pieces than cutting from one. Any suggestions? Thanks Can the holes be pre-drilled slightly smaller than the desired dimension, then milled to spec? Can the part be flipped over accurately to mill the other side? Good luck on the project. |
#7
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milling 3/16" slot 1.25" deep in steel
On 28 Jan 2006 11:37:22 -0800, "gtslabs" wrote:
I set my bridgeport up to cut a thin slot in a piece of steel. So far I have only broken bits. I dont know much about hardness but the material I am using has a black coating. Not sure what that is. But I started off with a 1/8" endmill taking very light cut at a very slow speed. I am having no luck. Additionally, I need my slot to be deeper than the endmill itself. What I am doing is setting up a 2 brackets to hold a 1/8" x 1.25" x 12" long cutting bar. I am sure there has to be an easier way but it might take more pieces than cutting from one. Any suggestions? Thanks Use a horizontal mill. Or a plunge EDM Gunner "Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her tits" John Griffin |
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