I have a "beavertail double drop deck semi trailer":

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking/

that needs some work done on its very tail end:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking...-0010.jpg.html

Some of it would involve "Overhead" welding, operating from below the
weld.

What is the easiest way to do it correctly. These would be welds that
need to hold up when a forklift or a metal tracked vehicle drives over
that tail.

We have solid mig wire and E71T flux cored.

Thanks

i

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 20:08:13 -0500, Ignoramus18965
wrote:

I have a "beavertail double drop deck semi trailer":

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking/

that needs some work done on its very tail end:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking...-0010.jpg.html

Some of it would involve "Overhead" welding, operating from below the
weld.

What is the easiest way to do it correctly. These would be welds that
need to hold up when a forklift or a metal tracked vehicle drives over
that tail.

We have solid mig wire and E71T flux cored.

Thanks

i

Good luck, you'll need it.

With my equipment and skills, I'd have to find a way to flip it over.
If it already broke once, tacking a bit more weld on ain't gonna do
it.

Karl

"Ignoramus18965" wrote in message
...
I have a "beavertail double drop deck semi trailer":

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking/

that needs some work done on its very tail end:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking...-0010.jpg.html

Some of it would involve "Overhead" welding, operating from below the
weld.

What is the easiest way to do it correctly. These would be welds that
need to hold up when a forklift or a metal tracked vehicle drives over
that tail.

We have solid mig wire and E71T flux cored.

Proly should post to sejw.
Don't know what the spatter situation is like for mig stuff, but if it's
anything like stick, get leather headgear -- not too much is worse than
slag in the ear.... except for mebbe slag in the eye. Slag in yer socks is
no joke either.
And a welding jacket,

Overhead welding, at least for stick, requires a lot of practice.
--
EA



Thanks

i

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 22:03:10 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

"Ignoramus18965" wrote in message
m...
I have a "beavertail double drop deck semi trailer":

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking/

that needs some work done on its very tail end:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking...-0010.jpg.html

Some of it would involve "Overhead" welding, operating from below the
weld.

What is the easiest way to do it correctly. These would be welds that
need to hold up when a forklift or a metal tracked vehicle drives over
that tail.

We have solid mig wire and E71T flux cored.

Proly should post to sejw.
Don't know what the spatter situation is like for mig stuff, but if it's
anything like stick, get leather headgear -- not too much is worse than
slag in the ear.... except for mebbe slag in the eye. Slag in yer socks is
no joke either.
And a welding jacket,

Overhead welding, at least for stick, requires a lot of practice.
Particularly on a scabby old trailer.
Flip the sucker, or at least stand it on it's side, and sandblast the
repair area. My preference would be to stick weld it, but that's just
me.

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 22:03:10 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

"Ignoramus18965" wrote in message
om...
I have a "beavertail double drop deck semi trailer":

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking/

that needs some work done on its very tail end:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking...-0010.jpg.html

Some of it would involve "Overhead" welding, operating from below the
weld.

What is the easiest way to do it correctly. These would be welds that
need to hold up when a forklift or a metal tracked vehicle drives over
that tail.

We have solid mig wire and E71T flux cored.

Proly should post to sejw.
Don't know what the spatter situation is like for mig stuff, but if it's
anything like stick, get leather headgear -- not too much is worse than
slag in the ear.... except for mebbe slag in the eye. Slag in yer socks
is
no joke either.
And a welding jacket,

Overhead welding, at least for stick, requires a lot of practice.
Particularly on a scabby old trailer.
Flip the sucker, or at least stand it on it's side, and sandblast the
repair area. My preference would be to stick weld it, but that's just
me.

Mebbe even easier/wiser to skip the welding and bolt mending plates made out
of suitable angle iron, etc, if possible.
--
EA

On 2012-04-26, wrote:
On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 22:03:10 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

"Ignoramus18965" wrote in message
om...
I have a "beavertail double drop deck semi trailer":

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking/

that needs some work done on its very tail end:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking...-0010.jpg.html

Some of it would involve "Overhead" welding, operating from below the
weld.

What is the easiest way to do it correctly. These would be welds that
need to hold up when a forklift or a metal tracked vehicle drives over
that tail.

We have solid mig wire and E71T flux cored.

Proly should post to sejw.
Don't know what the spatter situation is like for mig stuff, but if it's
anything like stick, get leather headgear -- not too much is worse than
slag in the ear.... except for mebbe slag in the eye. Slag in yer socks is
no joke either.
And a welding jacket,

Overhead welding, at least for stick, requires a lot of practice.
Particularly on a scabby old trailer.
Flip the sucker, or at least stand it on it's side, and sandblast the
repair area. My preference would be to stick weld it, but that's just
me.

Yeah, just flip that 16,000 lbs sucker ...

Ignoramus18965 wrote:
On 2012-04-26, wrote:
On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 22:03:10 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

"Ignoramus18965" wrote in message
...
I have a "beavertail double drop deck semi trailer":

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking/

that needs some work done on its very tail end:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking...-0010.jpg.html

Some of it would involve "Overhead" welding, operating from below the
weld.

What is the easiest way to do it correctly. These would be welds that
need to hold up when a forklift or a metal tracked vehicle drives over
that tail.

We have solid mig wire and E71T flux cored.
Proly should post to sejw.
Don't know what the spatter situation is like for mig stuff, but if it's
anything like stick, get leather headgear -- not too much is worse than
slag in the ear.... except for mebbe slag in the eye. Slag in yer socks is
no joke either.
And a welding jacket,

Overhead welding, at least for stick, requires a lot of practice.
Particularly on a scabby old trailer.
Flip the sucker, or at least stand it on it's side, and sandblast the
repair area. My preference would be to stick weld it, but that's just
me.

Yeah, just flip that 16,000 lbs sucker ...

You can do it REAL easy. Two chains attached to the tail of your tractor
and back to the trailer. Two more under the trailer in similar positions
to keep it from sliding. Add two more to stop it when it gets on edge.

Or if you have time two air/hyd. 20 ton jacks. Jack up, block in place.
Block jack up and keep going 'til it's at a good angle.

Call a wrecker outfit and have them lift it up. Block it in position.
Blast and stick weld it then have them come back and drop it down.

--
Steve W.

Ignoramus18965 wrote:

On 2012-04-26, wrote:
On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 22:03:10 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

"Ignoramus18965" wrote in message
om...
I have a "beavertail double drop deck semi trailer":

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking/

that needs some work done on its very tail end:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking...-0010.jpg.html

Some of it would involve "Overhead" welding, operating from below the
weld.

What is the easiest way to do it correctly. These would be welds that
need to hold up when a forklift or a metal tracked vehicle drives over
that tail.

We have solid mig wire and E71T flux cored.

Proly should post to sejw.
Don't know what the spatter situation is like for mig stuff, but if it's
anything like stick, get leather headgear -- not too much is worse than
slag in the ear.... except for mebbe slag in the eye. Slag in yer socks is
no joke either.
And a welding jacket,

Overhead welding, at least for stick, requires a lot of practice.
Particularly on a scabby old trailer.
Flip the sucker, or at least stand it on it's side, and sandblast the
repair area. My preference would be to stick weld it, but that's just
me.

Yeah, just flip that 16,000 lbs sucker ...

Did you see the video of the tornado tossing semi trailers through the
air in Dallas recently?

16,000#, and you only have to lift a side and let the weight mostly bear
on the other side. Should be easy enough with a forklift and some care.

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 22:19:40 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 22:03:10 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

"Ignoramus18965" wrote in message
news:MfednYn65algAgXSnZ2dnUVZ_t6dnZ2d@giganews. com...
I have a "beavertail double drop deck semi trailer":

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking/

that needs some work done on its very tail end:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking...-0010.jpg.html

Some of it would involve "Overhead" welding, operating from below the
weld.

What is the easiest way to do it correctly. These would be welds that
need to hold up when a forklift or a metal tracked vehicle drives over
that tail.

We have solid mig wire and E71T flux cored.

Proly should post to sejw.
Don't know what the spatter situation is like for mig stuff, but if it's
anything like stick, get leather headgear -- not too much is worse than
slag in the ear.... except for mebbe slag in the eye. Slag in yer socks
is
no joke either.
And a welding jacket,

Overhead welding, at least for stick, requires a lot of practice.
Particularly on a scabby old trailer.
Flip the sucker, or at least stand it on it's side, and sandblast the
repair area. My preference would be to stick weld it, but that's just
me.

Mebbe even easier/wiser to skip the welding and bolt mending plates made out
of suitable angle iron, etc, if possible.
With reamed holes and precision fit bolts, perhaps. Or hot rivets,
properly set. ANY movement will eventually cause the bolts to fail.

"Ignoramus18965" wrote in message
...
I have a "beavertail double drop deck semi trailer":

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking/

that needs some work done on its very tail end:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking...-0010.jpg.html

Some of it would involve "Overhead" welding, operating from below the
weld.

What is the easiest way to do it correctly. These would be welds that
need to hold up when a forklift or a metal tracked vehicle drives over
that tail.

We have solid mig wire and E71T flux cored.

Thanks

i

I would do it overhead with 7018. Even if you have to hire a guy for a
couple of days. Test him first.

Contrary to what you would think, I find when welding overhead, you have to
INCREASE the wire speed. It keeps the blob from running back down the wire.

Be wary of rust and corrosion that may be hidden.

It's tricky. It's fun. Why don't you just do it? You're pretty good with
7018........... And don't forget those leathers. I still have scars from
overhead. The night sweats are getting better, too ......... ;-)

Steve

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 20:08:13 -0500, Ignoramus18965
wrote:


Some of it would involve "Overhead" welding, operating from below the
weld.

What is the easiest way to do it correctly. These would be welds that
need to hold up when a forklift or a metal tracked vehicle drives over
that tail.

We have solid mig wire and E71T flux cored.
Thanks
i

Although, I can't see exactly what you are trying to weld from the
pictures, I would recommend stick welding with 7018. Absolutely do not
use solid MIG wire. The flux core is a much better choice if you must
use a MIG set up. It is not necessary to tip your trailer over as
others have suggested, but backing it over a garage pit would help to
give you some working room.

Joint preparation is key. You should grind a vee joint between the
plates (asumming this is a butt weld) and absolutely clean it out of
any paint, rust, or grinding debris using a knotted wire wheel.

If you have no experience running a key-hole type root pass with say
6010, I'd recommend tacking a backing strip to the weld path. Usually
a piece of cold rolled steel about 1/4" thick will do the trick.
(Grind any mill scale off of it before you use it.) You can cut this
off with careful application of an oxy-acetaline torch after the weld
is completed. Then grind the remains flat and apply a capping bead
over that side of the weld.

The root pass is also key. You must keep a very short arc length with
7018 otherwise oxygen will contaminate the weld puddle. The goal is to
lay passes that stack up evenly across the length of the weld. After
the root pass you can use weaving passes to make this stack
up.....once again remembering to keep a SHORT arc length.

Before attempting to do this on your trailer, do TEST set ups and
practice. Overhead takes practice above all else.
Dave

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 21:24:12 -0500, Ignoramus18965
wrote:

On 2012-04-26, wrote:
On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 22:03:10 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

"Ignoramus18965" wrote in message
news:MfednYn65algAgXSnZ2dnUVZ_t6dnZ2d@giganews. com...
I have a "beavertail double drop deck semi trailer":

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking/

that needs some work done on its very tail end:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking...-0010.jpg.html

Some of it would involve "Overhead" welding, operating from below the
weld.

What is the easiest way to do it correctly. These would be welds that
need to hold up when a forklift or a metal tracked vehicle drives over
that tail.

We have solid mig wire and E71T flux cored.

Proly should post to sejw.
Don't know what the spatter situation is like for mig stuff, but if it's
anything like stick, get leather headgear -- not too much is worse than
slag in the ear.... except for mebbe slag in the eye. Slag in yer socks is
no joke either.
And a welding jacket,

Overhead welding, at least for stick, requires a lot of practice.
Particularly on a scabby old trailer.
Flip the sucker, or at least stand it on it's side, and sandblast the
repair area. My preference would be to stick weld it, but that's just
me.

Yeah, just flip that 16,000 lbs sucker ...

The easy way would be to go out and hire a welder :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 21:24:12 -0500, Ignoramus18965
wrote:

On 2012-04-26, wrote:
On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 22:03:10 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

"Ignoramus18965" wrote in message
news:MfednYn65algAgXSnZ2dnUVZ_t6dnZ2d@giganews. com...
I have a "beavertail double drop deck semi trailer":

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking/

that needs some work done on its very tail end:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Trailking...-0010.jpg.html

Some of it would involve "Overhead" welding, operating from below the
weld.

What is the easiest way to do it correctly. These would be welds that
need to hold up when a forklift or a metal tracked vehicle drives over
that tail.

We have solid mig wire and E71T flux cored.

Proly should post to sejw.
Don't know what the spatter situation is like for mig stuff, but if it's
anything like stick, get leather headgear -- not too much is worse than
slag in the ear.... except for mebbe slag in the eye. Slag in yer socks is
no joke either.
And a welding jacket,

Overhead welding, at least for stick, requires a lot of practice.
Particularly on a scabby old trailer.
Flip the sucker, or at least stand it on it's side, and sandblast the
repair area. My preference would be to stick weld it, but that's just
me.

Yeah, just flip that 16,000 lbs sucker ...

I see an 18-wheeler tow truck in Ig's future...
http://www.fleetsaleswest.com/Used-H...national/1578/

--
Believe nothing.
No matter where you read it,
Or who said it,
Even if I have said it,
Unless it agrees with your own reason
And your own common sense.
-- Buddha

On Thu, 26 Apr 2012 02:19:07 -0400, lid wrote:

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 20:08:13 -0500, Ignoramus18965
wrote:


Some of it would involve "Overhead" welding, operating from below the
weld.

What is the easiest way to do it correctly. These would be welds that
need to hold up when a forklift or a metal tracked vehicle drives over
that tail.

We have solid mig wire and E71T flux cored.
Thanks
i

Although, I can't see exactly what you are trying to weld from the
pictures, I would recommend stick welding with 7018. Absolutely do not
use solid MIG wire. The flux core is a much better choice if you must
use a MIG set up. It is not necessary to tip your trailer over as
others have suggested, but backing it over a garage pit would help to
give you some working room.

Get inventive to get easier access - Something so you don't have to
kill yourself crawling under there and grinding & welding in extremely
confined conditions.

Plus you have to consider emergency egress and access - if for example
you manage to light the hydraulics on fire you want to be able to get
out in a hurry. Then grab an extinguisher and decide if you want to
go back in, or just squirt and pray from outside...

Either tip the trailer up at a 45-degree angle to the side with the
forklift, or pick up all four corners a few feet off the ground with a
set of Railroad Jacks (what they were designed for!) and crib the heck
out of it for safety...

Or bring it inside through the ground level door and run it outside
the Dock door with the tail end hanging out off the end of the loading
dock over the trailer pit...

Or dig a proper lube pit, and finish it right with concrete block
walls and a poured floor slab (with a sump-pump depression too!) and a
pair of concrete wheel tracks on the sides, and stairs out the end.

And a ledge on the sides of the pit so you can cover it up with 4X6
and 4X8 cribbing lumber to keep people from falling in when you aren't
using it. "Safety's in the Top Three..."

The last one is practical for working on the tractor and other
motorized things you have, too. If you're going to use it a lot, make
provisions for getting air and power down there (a 2" conduit from the
Shop you can snake an air hose and an extension cord through) and make
the Sump Pump semi-permanent with a plumbed outlet pipe before you
pour concrete.

Joint preparation is key. You should grind a vee joint between the
plates (asumming this is a butt weld) and absolutely clean it out of
any paint, rust, or grinding debris using a knotted wire wheel.

If you have no experience running a key-hole type root pass with say
6010, I'd recommend tacking a backing strip to the weld path. Usually
a piece of cold rolled steel about 1/4" thick will do the trick.
(Grind any mill scale off of it before you use it.) You can cut this
off with careful application of an oxy-acetaline torch after the weld
is completed. Then grind the remains flat and apply a capping bead
over that side of the weld.

Or clamp a chunk of Copper Busbar over the other side of the weld (the
trailer deck diamond-plate) as a chill plate. That will keep the weld
from making a bigger mess if you burn through, then go to fill in the
hole.

The root pass is also key. You must keep a very short arc length with
7018 otherwise oxygen will contaminate the weld puddle. The goal is to
lay passes that stack up evenly across the length of the weld. After
the root pass you can use weaving passes to make this stack
up.....once again remembering to keep a SHORT arc length.

Before attempting to do this on your trailer, do TEST set ups and
practice. Overhead takes practice above all else.
Dave

Overhead also takes lots of protective gear, because the red hot
molten steel dingleberries will go places you do NOT want them. Armor
up like you're going to work in a foundry.

If you don't trust yourself to do the final welds, find a local Mobile
Welder that can come out and do the work after you get it all set up,
cleaned up and primed with Weld-Through Primer and make up the repair
pieces you want and tack it together to fit.

These are the guys with the big honking Hobart Pipeliner welder
filling up the back of the truck, and they can whip out Nuclear Grade
overhead welds like nobody's business. Pay attention, you'll
probably learn a few things.

-- Bruce --