Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?

Spehro Pefhany fired this volley in
:

Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?


Maybe with a 65% thread clearance hole, but I wouldn't. Hell! 0-80 is
small enough to break just by thinking about tilting it off-axis. How
would you get it straight with a hand-held drill?

What's the matter with chucking it up in a finger vise, and doing it that
way? At least, then you could use a drill press to get your initial
alignment.

LLoyd

On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 14:47:02 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Spehro Pefhany fired this volley in
:

Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?


Maybe with a 65% thread clearance hole, but I wouldn't. Hell! 0-80 is
small enough to break just by thinking about tilting it off-axis. How
would you get it straight with a hand-held drill?

What's the matter with chucking it up in a finger vise, and doing it that
way? At least, then you could use a drill press to get your initial
alignment.

LLoyd

Mostly to save time, and because I've gotten away with it on larger
taps, but your point is well taken.. much off-axis force is going to
be fatal, and there won't be much 'feel' with a heavy drill.

Spehro Pefhany wrote:


Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?
I tapped quite a bit of 2-56 in 6061 using Alum-Tap fluid on a CNC
with rigid tapping. I used some $8 spiral-point taps to push the chips
ahead. The CNC guaranteed alignment straight over the hole.

There is a limit to how deep the hole can be for any particular tap
size, or the chips start to pack up and that's when you break the taps.
The tap manufacturer should have data on that.

The smaller the tap, the more critical the alignment parallel to the
hole becomes.

Jon

On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 15:42:31 -0400, Spehro Pefhany wrote:

Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to
think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?

You're giving me stomach cramps just thinking about it.

Unless, of course, your goal is broken taps -- in that case, go ahead and
have fun!

--
Tim Wescott
Control system and signal processing consulting
www.wescottdesign.com

On Mar 14, 1:05*pm, Jon Elson wrote:
Spehro Pefhany wrote:

Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?

I tapped quite a bit of 2-56 in 6061 using Alum-Tap fluid on a CNC
with rigid tapping. *I used some $8 spiral-point taps to push the chips
ahead. *The CNC guaranteed alignment straight over the hole.

There is a limit to how deep the hole can be for any particular tap
size, or the chips start to pack up and that's when you break the taps.
The tap manufacturer should have data on that.

The smaller the tap, the more critical the alignment parallel to the
hole becomes.

Jon

A roll tap wouldn't produce any chips.

On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 15:05:27 -0500, Jon Elson wrote:

Spehro Pefhany wrote:


Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?
I tapped quite a bit of 2-56 in 6061 using Alum-Tap fluid on a CNC with
rigid tapping. I used some $8 spiral-point taps to push the chips
ahead. The CNC guaranteed alignment straight over the hole.

There is a limit to how deep the hole can be for any particular tap
size, or the chips start to pack up and that's when you break the taps.
The tap manufacturer should have data on that.

The smaller the tap, the more critical the alignment parallel to the
hole becomes.

SmallParts used to (maybe still does) sell some magic wax that you put
down a blind hole, then tapped. The idea was that as you tapped the wax
would be deformed and push up the tap flutes, taking the chips with it.

Cool (and expensive) as all get out. I have no idea how well it works,
or if it's available in #0.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 15:42:31 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:


Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?

I took the handle off a tap wrench and then pressed a 3/8 socket on
the end. Then I use a speed wrench for the handle. Holds the tap nice
and square. I can't remeber *ever* breaking a tap with this, haven't
went 0-80 but i wouldn't be afraid to have you try it VBG

Karl

On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 19:00:51 -0500, the renowned Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 15:42:31 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:


Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?

I took the handle off a tap wrench and then pressed a 3/8 socket on
the end. Then I use a speed wrench for the handle. Holds the tap nice
and square. I can't remeber *ever* breaking a tap with this, haven't
went 0-80 but i wouldn't be afraid to have you try it VBG

Karl

One of those offset handle things? That's REALLY scary.

But if I could find a way to fit to my little 3.6V Hitachi DB30L (hex
shank drive)... it might be okay. It has a clutch, rocker reverse and
is light enough that there could be enough 'feel'.

https://encrypted-tbn2.google.com/im...aDP-4O2Y8jE9dA

Thanks, off to the drawing board (well, CAD package).


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

"Spehro Pefhany" wrote in message
...

Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?


I occiasionally have to do a few hundred M2 threads into some small 2mm ally
plates for mounting some optical encoders onto.


The M2 is only a little bigger than what you have to tap.......


I have mounted the guts (motor & chuck) from an old battery drill to a piece
of wood.

In line with the axis I have a ball bearing drawer slide with a right angle
bracket attached.

The bracket has a hole in it for the tap to go through.

The drill motor is wired via a reversing toggle switch to a PSU.



I hold the part to be tapped against the bracket and use the draw slide to
feed it "on and off" the tap. I can tap a hole in probably 3 seconds. The
drill motor is probably dong a few hundred RPM. It works a treat.

Spehro Pefhany wrote in
:


Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?

Unless you have ton of them, I'd do 'em by hand with one of these:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6...RITE-TAP-GUIDE

Doug White

On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 20:20:58 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:

On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 19:00:51 -0500, the renowned Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 15:42:31 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:


Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?

I took the handle off a tap wrench and then pressed a 3/8 socket on
the end. Then I use a speed wrench for the handle. Holds the tap nice
and square. I can't remeber *ever* breaking a tap with this, haven't
went 0-80 but i wouldn't be afraid to have you try it VBG

Karl

One of those offset handle things? That's REALLY scary.


Yep. I like it. Got the idea here when I had a about a zillion taps to
do in an electric panel. I found it fastest to have a drill for the
holes and the speed wrench tap. better than two drills. I did a fair
amount of 4-40 nothing smaller for my experience.

YMMV

Karl

On 2012-03-14, Spehro Pefhany wrote:

Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum.

6061-T6 or a softer version?

Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?

First off -- unless you include spiral point (or "gun tap") in
your description of "good quality coated tap" -- forget it. You need a
tap designed to chase the chips ahead of the tip, or a spiral flute tap
designed to chase the chips back out the starting side to go continuous
feed. Other taps need to be reversed every half turn or so to break the
chips or they will clog and break.

Second -- you need something which will hold the tap straight
(especially for something as fragile as an 0-80) (which, BTW, you only
mentioned in the "Subject: " header, and some newsreaders stop
displaying the "Subject: " header once you are into composing a reply).

The ideal thing is a smaller (say 30X) TapMatic tapping head,
which can be set to limit the torque so when a tap dulls it will stop
turning. And when you set it up, use the depth stop to stop the feed of
the assembly at a proper point. The tap will self-feed for another
couple of turns or so (maybe four with 80 TPI) and then disengage a dog
clutch so the motor keeps spinning but the tap stops. When you withdraw
the quill the tapping head will switch into reverse, and back the tap
out faster than it went in. It works fine in a drill press (once you
set up a stop for the reaction arm sticking out the side of the head).

eBay auction # 280843542733 has an example of the right size,
30X -- #0 through 1/4" taps. This one has a break in the collet closing
cone, and I would probably go for a different one, but this is an early
one with good photos. No clue as to what size arbor it has, but those
can be replaced.

To get a tap a little less fragile, look into "thread forming"
or "thread rolling" taps (which need a different size tap drill, BTW.
But in 0-80 size, I still doubt that you could hold the drill stable
enough to avoid breaking it. Especially considering that you need to
reverse the drill motor to back the chip out, and many have reverse
switches which are hard to switch without joggling the angle of the
drill motor and thus breaking the tap.

Good luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 15 Mar 2012 05:35:03 GMT, the renowned "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2012-03-14, Spehro Pefhany wrote:

Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum.

6061-T6 or a softer version?

Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?

First off -- unless you include spiral point (or "gun tap") in
your description of "good quality coated tap" -- forget it. You need a
tap designed to chase the chips ahead of the tip, or a spiral flute tap
designed to chase the chips back out the starting side to go continuous
feed. Other taps need to be reversed every half turn or so to break the
chips or they will clog and break.

Second -- you need something which will hold the tap straight
(especially for something as fragile as an 0-80) (which, BTW, you only
mentioned in the "Subject: " header, and some newsreaders stop
displaying the "Subject: " header once you are into composing a reply).

The ideal thing is a smaller (say 30X) TapMatic tapping head,
which can be set to limit the torque so when a tap dulls it will stop
turning. And when you set it up, use the depth stop to stop the feed of
the assembly at a proper point. The tap will self-feed for another
couple of turns or so (maybe four with 80 TPI) and then disengage a dog
clutch so the motor keeps spinning but the tap stops. When you withdraw
the quill the tapping head will switch into reverse, and back the tap
out faster than it went in. It works fine in a drill press (once you
set up a stop for the reaction arm sticking out the side of the head).

eBay auction # 280843542733 has an example of the right size,
30X -- #0 through 1/4" taps. This one has a break in the collet closing
cone, and I would probably go for a different one, but this is an early
one with good photos. No clue as to what size arbor it has, but those
can be replaced.

To get a tap a little less fragile, look into "thread forming"
or "thread rolling" taps (which need a different size tap drill, BTW.
But in 0-80 size, I still doubt that you could hold the drill stable
enough to avoid breaking it. Especially considering that you need to
reverse the drill motor to back the chip out, and many have reverse
switches which are hard to switch without joggling the angle of the
drill motor and thus breaking the tap.

Good luck,
DoN.

Thanks for the comprehensive reply, DoN. I agree about the reverse
switch- the little guy has a rocker, which is a lot smoother.

My local guy has a self-reversing head for $200 new (it says that it
backs up at 0.140" after the spindle stops moving down at double
speed),, but the smallest size says it's good down to 0 in steel, not
00 (and up to 1/4"). Think it might be okay at 00 in Aluminum?

http://www.accusizetools.ca/upfile/2...2155414451.jpg
http://www.accusizetools.ca/upfile/28.pdf


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

On Mar 14, 12:42*pm, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:
Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?

While I could be wrong on this, given the fairly thin material, I
suspect you might get away with it.

Spehro,

The sanity, or lack thereof, is more likely associated with runout and hand
shake of cordless drill.

Bob Swinney

"Spehro Pefhany" wrote in message
...


Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?

On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 02:04:18 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:

On 15 Mar 2012 05:35:03 GMT, the renowned "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2012-03-14, Spehro Pefhany wrote:

Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum.

6061-T6 or a softer version?

Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?

First off -- unless you include spiral point (or "gun tap") in
your description of "good quality coated tap" -- forget it. You need a
tap designed to chase the chips ahead of the tip, or a spiral flute tap
designed to chase the chips back out the starting side to go continuous
feed. Other taps need to be reversed every half turn or so to break the
chips or they will clog and break.

Second -- you need something which will hold the tap straight
(especially for something as fragile as an 0-80) (which, BTW, you only
mentioned in the "Subject: " header, and some newsreaders stop
displaying the "Subject: " header once you are into composing a reply).

The ideal thing is a smaller (say 30X) TapMatic tapping head,
which can be set to limit the torque so when a tap dulls it will stop
turning. And when you set it up, use the depth stop to stop the feed of
the assembly at a proper point. The tap will self-feed for another
couple of turns or so (maybe four with 80 TPI) and then disengage a dog
clutch so the motor keeps spinning but the tap stops. When you withdraw
the quill the tapping head will switch into reverse, and back the tap
out faster than it went in. It works fine in a drill press (once you
set up a stop for the reaction arm sticking out the side of the head).

eBay auction # 280843542733 has an example of the right size,
30X -- #0 through 1/4" taps. This one has a break in the collet closing
cone, and I would probably go for a different one, but this is an early
one with good photos. No clue as to what size arbor it has, but those
can be replaced.

To get a tap a little less fragile, look into "thread forming"
or "thread rolling" taps (which need a different size tap drill, BTW.
But in 0-80 size, I still doubt that you could hold the drill stable
enough to avoid breaking it. Especially considering that you need to
reverse the drill motor to back the chip out, and many have reverse
switches which are hard to switch without joggling the angle of the
drill motor and thus breaking the tap.

Good luck,
DoN.

Thanks for the comprehensive reply, DoN. I agree about the reverse
switch- the little guy has a rocker, which is a lot smoother.

My local guy has a self-reversing head for $200 new (it says that it
backs up at 0.140" after the spindle stops moving down at double
speed),, but the smallest size says it's good down to 0 in steel, not
00 (and up to 1/4"). Think it might be okay at 00 in Aluminum?

http://www.accusizetools.ca/upfile/2...2155414451.jpg
http://www.accusizetools.ca/upfile/28.pdf


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
Greetings Spehro,
If you're gonna use a tapping head check out a Procunier head. These
heads only have cone clutches in them and do not self feed. The harder
you press the more torque to the tap. Though I have Tapmatic, import
Tapmatic copies, Ettco, and Procunier heads in my shop I use the
Procuniers the most. One Procunier head I have is over 50 years old
and still works great. It's the smallest size and it has tapped many
0-80 holes. This head might be perfect:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PROCUNIER-MO...em256a3e f4a2
It bolts up to an electric motor. Procunier heads will run
horizontally without problems. In fact, if you don't but it I may.
It's the correct size, number 1. And instead of collets uses adrill
chuck. You just hold the parts in your hands and push them onto the
tap and then pull them back off. $99.00. There are other models for
auction of course. #1 style E is what you want. It should come with
collets.
ERic
Eric

On 3/14/2012 3:55 PM, Spehro Pefhany wrote:
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 14:47:02 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Spehro fired this volley in
:

Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?


Maybe with a 65% thread clearance hole, but I wouldn't. Hell! 0-80 is
small enough to break just by thinking about tilting it off-axis. How
would you get it straight with a hand-held drill?

What's the matter with chucking it up in a finger vise, and doing it that
way? At least, then you could use a drill press to get your initial
alignment.

LLoyd

Mostly to save time, and because I've gotten away with it on larger
taps, but your point is well taken.. much off-axis force is going to
be fatal, and there won't be much 'feel' with a heavy drill.



You could try chucking the tap in a drill press (NO POWER) to get
straight then turning the chuck by hand.

bobm46 fired this volley in news:jjt1in$sep$1@dont-
email.me:

You could try chucking the tap in a drill press (NO POWER) to get
straight then turning the chuck by hand.

You won't have much 'feel' there on something that small.

Better to loosely chuck a pin vise in a drill press, and simply use the
press as a tapping stand.

LLoyd

"Spehro Pefhany" wrote in message
...


Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?
__________________________________________

Go for it! Removing broken taps won't be that bad. Try a drill guide to
keep them straight. Even wit broken taps it will be faster than any other
method.

On Mar 14, 3:55*pm, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 15:05:27 -0500, Jon Elson wrote:
Spehro Pefhany wrote:

Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity
to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through
without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum
cutting fluid)?
I tapped quite a bit of 2-56 in 6061 using Alum-Tap fluid on a CNC with
rigid tapping. *I used some $8 spiral-point taps to push the chips
ahead. *The CNC guaranteed alignment straight over the hole.

There is a limit to how deep the hole can be for any particular tap
size, or the chips start to pack up and that's when you break the taps.
The tap manufacturer should have data on that.

The smaller the tap, the more critical the alignment parallel to the
hole becomes.

SmallParts used to (maybe still does) sell some magic wax that you put
down a blind hole, then tapped. *The idea was that as you tapped the wax
would be deformed and push up the tap flutes, taking the chips with it.

Cool (and expensive) as all get out. *I have no idea how well it works,
or if it's available in #0.

I think I remember that stuff, was formed "wires", IIRC. I've used
the regular Castrol machining wax to do the same, just stuff a lump in
the drilled hole. Got it for the bandsaw, works for that as well.
Aluminum really needs that, you don't want chips welding onto the tap
with that small a thread. Have even seen a very old tip using bacon
grease for that back in the "olden days"('20s).

And I wouldn't be doing anything that small without some sort of tap
guide, I use a very small Starrett dogbone wrench for those dinky
taps.

Stan

On 2012-03-15, Spehro Pefhany wrote:
On 15 Mar 2012 05:35:03 GMT, the renowned "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2012-03-14, Spehro Pefhany wrote:

Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably)
6061 aluminum.

6061-T6 or a softer version?

[ ... ]

Second -- you need something which will hold the tap straight
(especially for something as fragile as an 0-80) (which, BTW, you only
mentioned in the "Subject: " header, and some newsreaders stop
displaying the "Subject: " header once you are into composing a reply).

The ideal thing is a smaller (say 30X) TapMatic tapping head,
which can be set to limit the torque so when a tap dulls it will stop
turning. And when you set it up, use the depth stop to stop the feed of
the assembly at a proper point.

[ ... ]

Thanks for the comprehensive reply, DoN. I agree about the reverse
switch- the little guy has a rocker, which is a lot smoother.

That helps. Sounds like my AEG/Milwauke electric screwdrivers.
(I think that Panasonic made them for a while too.)

My local guy has a self-reversing head for $200 new (it says that it
backs up at 0.140" after the spindle stops moving down at double
speed),, but the smallest size says it's good down to 0 in steel, not
00 (and up to 1/4"). Think it might be okay at 00 in Aluminum?

http://www.accusizetools.ca/upfile/2...2155414451.jpg
http://www.accusizetools.ca/upfile/28.pdf

Hmm ... looks as though the patent on the TapMatic heads has
expired. :-) The price is certainly attractive.

Note that in your Subject line, you said 0-80, not 00-xx.

I suspect that it would work well, with one possible exception.
The torque limiting clutch might not go down quite low enough. Normal
practice with the TapMatic heads is to start with the clutch fully
loose, and slowly adjust it with a *brand* *new* tap until it will feed
all the way though. Adjust it just a little beyond that point, and when
the tap starts to dull, it will slip again -- warning you to change the
tap before it breaks off in a workpiece.

As for the 0.140" self feed (this is at single speed, BTW, the
higher speed is only when backing it out) -- I have my own preferred way
of setting it which does not require measurement. If you pull out on
the tap chuck you reach a point where you can rotate it by hand and turn
it about 1/6 or 1/4 turn you will reach a point where it will rest on
the dog clutch extended. Then adjust the stop on the drill press so it
will stop before you run out of threads on the tap (leave a couple spare
threads unless you are working with a deep hole). Then tease it to
rotate a little and it should snap back to the engaged position to
reassure you that you set it while the dog clutch was released.

When using it, if you pause feeding the dog clutch will
disengage and start going clack-clack-clack. Feed a bit more and it
will start threading down again. When it reaches the stop, you will get
the clacks again, and that is the time to let the quill back up slowly
(especially slowly with an 0-80 or smaller) to back it out. With
something like a 1/4-20 it will back out a lot quicker.

At that price, I would get one, and try it with your #00-96 was
that the pitch for a #00?

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 15 Mar 2012 22:33:55 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:



Note that in your Subject line, you said 0-80, not 00-xx.

Yes! Don't need to go further than 0, thanks.

I suspect that it would work well, with one possible exception.
The torque limiting clutch might not go down quite low enough. Normal
practice with the TapMatic heads is to start with the clutch fully
loose, and slowly adjust it with a *brand* *new* tap until it will feed
all the way though. Adjust it just a little beyond that point, and when
the tap starts to dull, it will slip again -- warning you to change the
tap before it breaks off in a workpiece.

As for the 0.140" self feed (this is at single speed, BTW, the
higher speed is only when backing it out) -- I have my own preferred way
of setting it which does not require measurement. If you pull out on
the tap chuck you reach a point where you can rotate it by hand and turn
it about 1/6 or 1/4 turn you will reach a point where it will rest on
the dog clutch extended. Then adjust the stop on the drill press so it
will stop before you run out of threads on the tap (leave a couple spare
threads unless you are working with a deep hole). Then tease it to
rotate a little and it should snap back to the engaged position to
reassure you that you set it while the dog clutch was released.

When using it, if you pause feeding the dog clutch will
disengage and start going clack-clack-clack. Feed a bit more and it
will start threading down again. When it reaches the stop, you will get
the clacks again, and that is the time to let the quill back up slowly
(especially slowly with an 0-80 or smaller) to back it out. With
something like a 1/4-20 it will back out a lot quicker.

At that price, I would get one, and try it with your #00-96 was
that the pitch for a #00?

0-80 is all I need. I'll get one of the little guys with my next
order, thanks, DoN.

Enjoy,
DoN.

On 2012-03-16, Spehro Pefhany wrote:
On 15 Mar 2012 22:33:55 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:



Note that in your Subject line, you said 0-80, not 00-xx.

Yes! Don't need to go further than 0, thanks.

Good enough.

[ ... ]

At that price, I would get one, and try it with your #00-96 was
that the pitch for a #00?

0-80 is all I need. I'll get one of the little guys with my next
order, thanks, DoN.

You're welcome. Remember to order some spiral point ("gun")
taps to go with it, if you don't already have some. (I actually like
them for hand tapping as well, when doing through holes, at least.)

For that matter, if you have enough room behind the workpiece,
the combination drill and tap works quite well -- at least in 1/4-20 in
1/2" aluminum and 1/4" steel at least -- the only places I've used it.
That 1/2" aluminum was about the maximum thickness for a through-tapped
hole in that size with the combo drill/tap.

I need to get and try some other sizes.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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