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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? |
#2
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
Spehro Pefhany fired this volley in
: Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? Maybe with a 65% thread clearance hole, but I wouldn't. Hell! 0-80 is small enough to break just by thinking about tilting it off-axis. How would you get it straight with a hand-held drill? What's the matter with chucking it up in a finger vise, and doing it that way? At least, then you could use a drill press to get your initial alignment. LLoyd |
#3
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 14:47:02 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: Spehro Pefhany fired this volley in : Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? Maybe with a 65% thread clearance hole, but I wouldn't. Hell! 0-80 is small enough to break just by thinking about tilting it off-axis. How would you get it straight with a hand-held drill? What's the matter with chucking it up in a finger vise, and doing it that way? At least, then you could use a drill press to get your initial alignment. LLoyd Mostly to save time, and because I've gotten away with it on larger taps, but your point is well taken.. much off-axis force is going to be fatal, and there won't be much 'feel' with a heavy drill. |
#4
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
On 3/14/2012 3:55 PM, Spehro Pefhany wrote:
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 14:47:02 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: Spehro fired this volley in : Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? Maybe with a 65% thread clearance hole, but I wouldn't. Hell! 0-80 is small enough to break just by thinking about tilting it off-axis. How would you get it straight with a hand-held drill? What's the matter with chucking it up in a finger vise, and doing it that way? At least, then you could use a drill press to get your initial alignment. LLoyd Mostly to save time, and because I've gotten away with it on larger taps, but your point is well taken.. much off-axis force is going to be fatal, and there won't be much 'feel' with a heavy drill. You could try chucking the tap in a drill press (NO POWER) to get straight then turning the chuck by hand. |
#5
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
bobm46 fired this volley in news:jjt1in$sep$1@dont-
email.me: You could try chucking the tap in a drill press (NO POWER) to get straight then turning the chuck by hand. You won't have much 'feel' there on something that small. Better to loosely chuck a pin vise in a drill press, and simply use the press as a tapping stand. LLoyd |
#6
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
Spehro Pefhany wrote:
Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? I tapped quite a bit of 2-56 in 6061 using Alum-Tap fluid on a CNC with rigid tapping. I used some $8 spiral-point taps to push the chips ahead. The CNC guaranteed alignment straight over the hole. There is a limit to how deep the hole can be for any particular tap size, or the chips start to pack up and that's when you break the taps. The tap manufacturer should have data on that. The smaller the tap, the more critical the alignment parallel to the hole becomes. Jon |
#7
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
On Mar 14, 1:05*pm, Jon Elson wrote:
Spehro Pefhany wrote: Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? I tapped quite a bit of 2-56 in 6061 using Alum-Tap fluid on a CNC with rigid tapping. *I used some $8 spiral-point taps to push the chips ahead. *The CNC guaranteed alignment straight over the hole. There is a limit to how deep the hole can be for any particular tap size, or the chips start to pack up and that's when you break the taps. The tap manufacturer should have data on that. The smaller the tap, the more critical the alignment parallel to the hole becomes. Jon A roll tap wouldn't produce any chips. |
#8
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 15:05:27 -0500, Jon Elson wrote:
Spehro Pefhany wrote: Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? I tapped quite a bit of 2-56 in 6061 using Alum-Tap fluid on a CNC with rigid tapping. I used some $8 spiral-point taps to push the chips ahead. The CNC guaranteed alignment straight over the hole. There is a limit to how deep the hole can be for any particular tap size, or the chips start to pack up and that's when you break the taps. The tap manufacturer should have data on that. The smaller the tap, the more critical the alignment parallel to the hole becomes. SmallParts used to (maybe still does) sell some magic wax that you put down a blind hole, then tapped. The idea was that as you tapped the wax would be deformed and push up the tap flutes, taking the chips with it. Cool (and expensive) as all get out. I have no idea how well it works, or if it's available in #0. -- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground? Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software http://www.wescottdesign.com |
#9
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
On Mar 14, 3:55*pm, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 15:05:27 -0500, Jon Elson wrote: Spehro Pefhany wrote: Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? I tapped quite a bit of 2-56 in 6061 using Alum-Tap fluid on a CNC with rigid tapping. *I used some $8 spiral-point taps to push the chips ahead. *The CNC guaranteed alignment straight over the hole. There is a limit to how deep the hole can be for any particular tap size, or the chips start to pack up and that's when you break the taps. The tap manufacturer should have data on that. The smaller the tap, the more critical the alignment parallel to the hole becomes. SmallParts used to (maybe still does) sell some magic wax that you put down a blind hole, then tapped. *The idea was that as you tapped the wax would be deformed and push up the tap flutes, taking the chips with it. Cool (and expensive) as all get out. *I have no idea how well it works, or if it's available in #0. I think I remember that stuff, was formed "wires", IIRC. I've used the regular Castrol machining wax to do the same, just stuff a lump in the drilled hole. Got it for the bandsaw, works for that as well. Aluminum really needs that, you don't want chips welding onto the tap with that small a thread. Have even seen a very old tip using bacon grease for that back in the "olden days"('20s). And I wouldn't be doing anything that small without some sort of tap guide, I use a very small Starrett dogbone wrench for those dinky taps. Stan |
#10
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 15:42:31 -0400, Spehro Pefhany wrote:
Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? You're giving me stomach cramps just thinking about it. Unless, of course, your goal is broken taps -- in that case, go ahead and have fun! -- Tim Wescott Control system and signal processing consulting www.wescottdesign.com |
#11
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 15:42:31 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote: Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? I took the handle off a tap wrench and then pressed a 3/8 socket on the end. Then I use a speed wrench for the handle. Holds the tap nice and square. I can't remeber *ever* breaking a tap with this, haven't went 0-80 but i wouldn't be afraid to have you try it VBG Karl |
#12
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 19:00:51 -0500, the renowned Karl Townsend
wrote: On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 15:42:31 -0400, Spehro Pefhany wrote: Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? I took the handle off a tap wrench and then pressed a 3/8 socket on the end. Then I use a speed wrench for the handle. Holds the tap nice and square. I can't remeber *ever* breaking a tap with this, haven't went 0-80 but i wouldn't be afraid to have you try it VBG Karl One of those offset handle things? That's REALLY scary. But if I could find a way to fit to my little 3.6V Hitachi DB30L (hex shank drive)... it might be okay. It has a clutch, rocker reverse and is light enough that there could be enough 'feel'. https://encrypted-tbn2.google.com/im...aDP-4O2Y8jE9dA Thanks, off to the drawing board (well, CAD package). Best regards, Spehro Pefhany -- "it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward" Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com |
#13
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 20:20:58 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote: On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 19:00:51 -0500, the renowned Karl Townsend wrote: On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 15:42:31 -0400, Spehro Pefhany wrote: Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? I took the handle off a tap wrench and then pressed a 3/8 socket on the end. Then I use a speed wrench for the handle. Holds the tap nice and square. I can't remeber *ever* breaking a tap with this, haven't went 0-80 but i wouldn't be afraid to have you try it VBG Karl One of those offset handle things? That's REALLY scary. Yep. I like it. Got the idea here when I had a about a zillion taps to do in an electric panel. I found it fastest to have a drill for the holes and the speed wrench tap. better than two drills. I did a fair amount of 4-40 nothing smaller for my experience. YMMV Karl |
#14
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
"Spehro Pefhany" wrote in message ... Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? I occiasionally have to do a few hundred M2 threads into some small 2mm ally plates for mounting some optical encoders onto. The M2 is only a little bigger than what you have to tap....... I have mounted the guts (motor & chuck) from an old battery drill to a piece of wood. In line with the axis I have a ball bearing drawer slide with a right angle bracket attached. The bracket has a hole in it for the tap to go through. The drill motor is wired via a reversing toggle switch to a PSU. I hold the part to be tapped against the bracket and use the draw slide to feed it "on and off" the tap. I can tap a hole in probably 3 seconds. The drill motor is probably dong a few hundred RPM. It works a treat. |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
Spehro Pefhany wrote in
: Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? Unless you have ton of them, I'd do 'em by hand with one of these: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6...RITE-TAP-GUIDE Doug White |
#16
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
On 2012-03-14, Spehro Pefhany wrote:
Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. 6061-T6 or a softer version? Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? First off -- unless you include spiral point (or "gun tap") in your description of "good quality coated tap" -- forget it. You need a tap designed to chase the chips ahead of the tip, or a spiral flute tap designed to chase the chips back out the starting side to go continuous feed. Other taps need to be reversed every half turn or so to break the chips or they will clog and break. Second -- you need something which will hold the tap straight (especially for something as fragile as an 0-80) (which, BTW, you only mentioned in the "Subject: " header, and some newsreaders stop displaying the "Subject: " header once you are into composing a reply). The ideal thing is a smaller (say 30X) TapMatic tapping head, which can be set to limit the torque so when a tap dulls it will stop turning. And when you set it up, use the depth stop to stop the feed of the assembly at a proper point. The tap will self-feed for another couple of turns or so (maybe four with 80 TPI) and then disengage a dog clutch so the motor keeps spinning but the tap stops. When you withdraw the quill the tapping head will switch into reverse, and back the tap out faster than it went in. It works fine in a drill press (once you set up a stop for the reaction arm sticking out the side of the head). eBay auction # 280843542733 has an example of the right size, 30X -- #0 through 1/4" taps. This one has a break in the collet closing cone, and I would probably go for a different one, but this is an early one with good photos. No clue as to what size arbor it has, but those can be replaced. To get a tap a little less fragile, look into "thread forming" or "thread rolling" taps (which need a different size tap drill, BTW. But in 0-80 size, I still doubt that you could hold the drill stable enough to avoid breaking it. Especially considering that you need to reverse the drill motor to back the chip out, and many have reverse switches which are hard to switch without joggling the angle of the drill motor and thus breaking the tap. Good luck, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#17
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
On 15 Mar 2012 05:35:03 GMT, the renowned "DoN. Nichols"
wrote: On 2012-03-14, Spehro Pefhany wrote: Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. 6061-T6 or a softer version? Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? First off -- unless you include spiral point (or "gun tap") in your description of "good quality coated tap" -- forget it. You need a tap designed to chase the chips ahead of the tip, or a spiral flute tap designed to chase the chips back out the starting side to go continuous feed. Other taps need to be reversed every half turn or so to break the chips or they will clog and break. Second -- you need something which will hold the tap straight (especially for something as fragile as an 0-80) (which, BTW, you only mentioned in the "Subject: " header, and some newsreaders stop displaying the "Subject: " header once you are into composing a reply). The ideal thing is a smaller (say 30X) TapMatic tapping head, which can be set to limit the torque so when a tap dulls it will stop turning. And when you set it up, use the depth stop to stop the feed of the assembly at a proper point. The tap will self-feed for another couple of turns or so (maybe four with 80 TPI) and then disengage a dog clutch so the motor keeps spinning but the tap stops. When you withdraw the quill the tapping head will switch into reverse, and back the tap out faster than it went in. It works fine in a drill press (once you set up a stop for the reaction arm sticking out the side of the head). eBay auction # 280843542733 has an example of the right size, 30X -- #0 through 1/4" taps. This one has a break in the collet closing cone, and I would probably go for a different one, but this is an early one with good photos. No clue as to what size arbor it has, but those can be replaced. To get a tap a little less fragile, look into "thread forming" or "thread rolling" taps (which need a different size tap drill, BTW. But in 0-80 size, I still doubt that you could hold the drill stable enough to avoid breaking it. Especially considering that you need to reverse the drill motor to back the chip out, and many have reverse switches which are hard to switch without joggling the angle of the drill motor and thus breaking the tap. Good luck, DoN. Thanks for the comprehensive reply, DoN. I agree about the reverse switch- the little guy has a rocker, which is a lot smoother. My local guy has a self-reversing head for $200 new (it says that it backs up at 0.140" after the spindle stops moving down at double speed),, but the smallest size says it's good down to 0 in steel, not 00 (and up to 1/4"). Think it might be okay at 00 in Aluminum? http://www.accusizetools.ca/upfile/2...2155414451.jpg http://www.accusizetools.ca/upfile/28.pdf Best regards, Spehro Pefhany -- "it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward" Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com |
#18
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 02:04:18 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote: On 15 Mar 2012 05:35:03 GMT, the renowned "DoN. Nichols" wrote: On 2012-03-14, Spehro Pefhany wrote: Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. 6061-T6 or a softer version? Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? First off -- unless you include spiral point (or "gun tap") in your description of "good quality coated tap" -- forget it. You need a tap designed to chase the chips ahead of the tip, or a spiral flute tap designed to chase the chips back out the starting side to go continuous feed. Other taps need to be reversed every half turn or so to break the chips or they will clog and break. Second -- you need something which will hold the tap straight (especially for something as fragile as an 0-80) (which, BTW, you only mentioned in the "Subject: " header, and some newsreaders stop displaying the "Subject: " header once you are into composing a reply). The ideal thing is a smaller (say 30X) TapMatic tapping head, which can be set to limit the torque so when a tap dulls it will stop turning. And when you set it up, use the depth stop to stop the feed of the assembly at a proper point. The tap will self-feed for another couple of turns or so (maybe four with 80 TPI) and then disengage a dog clutch so the motor keeps spinning but the tap stops. When you withdraw the quill the tapping head will switch into reverse, and back the tap out faster than it went in. It works fine in a drill press (once you set up a stop for the reaction arm sticking out the side of the head). eBay auction # 280843542733 has an example of the right size, 30X -- #0 through 1/4" taps. This one has a break in the collet closing cone, and I would probably go for a different one, but this is an early one with good photos. No clue as to what size arbor it has, but those can be replaced. To get a tap a little less fragile, look into "thread forming" or "thread rolling" taps (which need a different size tap drill, BTW. But in 0-80 size, I still doubt that you could hold the drill stable enough to avoid breaking it. Especially considering that you need to reverse the drill motor to back the chip out, and many have reverse switches which are hard to switch without joggling the angle of the drill motor and thus breaking the tap. Good luck, DoN. Thanks for the comprehensive reply, DoN. I agree about the reverse switch- the little guy has a rocker, which is a lot smoother. My local guy has a self-reversing head for $200 new (it says that it backs up at 0.140" after the spindle stops moving down at double speed),, but the smallest size says it's good down to 0 in steel, not 00 (and up to 1/4"). Think it might be okay at 00 in Aluminum? http://www.accusizetools.ca/upfile/2...2155414451.jpg http://www.accusizetools.ca/upfile/28.pdf Best regards, Spehro Pefhany Greetings Spehro, If you're gonna use a tapping head check out a Procunier head. These heads only have cone clutches in them and do not self feed. The harder you press the more torque to the tap. Though I have Tapmatic, import Tapmatic copies, Ettco, and Procunier heads in my shop I use the Procuniers the most. One Procunier head I have is over 50 years old and still works great. It's the smallest size and it has tapped many 0-80 holes. This head might be perfect: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PROCUNIER-MO...em256a3e f4a2 It bolts up to an electric motor. Procunier heads will run horizontally without problems. In fact, if you don't but it I may. It's the correct size, number 1. And instead of collets uses adrill chuck. You just hold the parts in your hands and push them onto the tap and then pull them back off. $99.00. There are other models for auction of course. #1 style E is what you want. It should come with collets. ERic Eric |
#19
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
On 2012-03-15, Spehro Pefhany wrote:
On 15 Mar 2012 05:35:03 GMT, the renowned "DoN. Nichols" wrote: On 2012-03-14, Spehro Pefhany wrote: Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. 6061-T6 or a softer version? [ ... ] Second -- you need something which will hold the tap straight (especially for something as fragile as an 0-80) (which, BTW, you only mentioned in the "Subject: " header, and some newsreaders stop displaying the "Subject: " header once you are into composing a reply). The ideal thing is a smaller (say 30X) TapMatic tapping head, which can be set to limit the torque so when a tap dulls it will stop turning. And when you set it up, use the depth stop to stop the feed of the assembly at a proper point. [ ... ] Thanks for the comprehensive reply, DoN. I agree about the reverse switch- the little guy has a rocker, which is a lot smoother. That helps. Sounds like my AEG/Milwauke electric screwdrivers. (I think that Panasonic made them for a while too.) My local guy has a self-reversing head for $200 new (it says that it backs up at 0.140" after the spindle stops moving down at double speed),, but the smallest size says it's good down to 0 in steel, not 00 (and up to 1/4"). Think it might be okay at 00 in Aluminum? http://www.accusizetools.ca/upfile/2...2155414451.jpg http://www.accusizetools.ca/upfile/28.pdf Hmm ... looks as though the patent on the TapMatic heads has expired. :-) The price is certainly attractive. Note that in your Subject line, you said 0-80, not 00-xx. I suspect that it would work well, with one possible exception. The torque limiting clutch might not go down quite low enough. Normal practice with the TapMatic heads is to start with the clutch fully loose, and slowly adjust it with a *brand* *new* tap until it will feed all the way though. Adjust it just a little beyond that point, and when the tap starts to dull, it will slip again -- warning you to change the tap before it breaks off in a workpiece. As for the 0.140" self feed (this is at single speed, BTW, the higher speed is only when backing it out) -- I have my own preferred way of setting it which does not require measurement. If you pull out on the tap chuck you reach a point where you can rotate it by hand and turn it about 1/6 or 1/4 turn you will reach a point where it will rest on the dog clutch extended. Then adjust the stop on the drill press so it will stop before you run out of threads on the tap (leave a couple spare threads unless you are working with a deep hole). Then tease it to rotate a little and it should snap back to the engaged position to reassure you that you set it while the dog clutch was released. When using it, if you pause feeding the dog clutch will disengage and start going clack-clack-clack. Feed a bit more and it will start threading down again. When it reaches the stop, you will get the clacks again, and that is the time to let the quill back up slowly (especially slowly with an 0-80 or smaller) to back it out. With something like a 1/4-20 it will back out a lot quicker. At that price, I would get one, and try it with your #00-96 was that the pitch for a #00? Enjoy, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#20
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
On 15 Mar 2012 22:33:55 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote: Note that in your Subject line, you said 0-80, not 00-xx. Yes! Don't need to go further than 0, thanks. I suspect that it would work well, with one possible exception. The torque limiting clutch might not go down quite low enough. Normal practice with the TapMatic heads is to start with the clutch fully loose, and slowly adjust it with a *brand* *new* tap until it will feed all the way though. Adjust it just a little beyond that point, and when the tap starts to dull, it will slip again -- warning you to change the tap before it breaks off in a workpiece. As for the 0.140" self feed (this is at single speed, BTW, the higher speed is only when backing it out) -- I have my own preferred way of setting it which does not require measurement. If you pull out on the tap chuck you reach a point where you can rotate it by hand and turn it about 1/6 or 1/4 turn you will reach a point where it will rest on the dog clutch extended. Then adjust the stop on the drill press so it will stop before you run out of threads on the tap (leave a couple spare threads unless you are working with a deep hole). Then tease it to rotate a little and it should snap back to the engaged position to reassure you that you set it while the dog clutch was released. When using it, if you pause feeding the dog clutch will disengage and start going clack-clack-clack. Feed a bit more and it will start threading down again. When it reaches the stop, you will get the clacks again, and that is the time to let the quill back up slowly (especially slowly with an 0-80 or smaller) to back it out. With something like a 1/4-20 it will back out a lot quicker. At that price, I would get one, and try it with your #00-96 was that the pitch for a #00? 0-80 is all I need. I'll get one of the little guys with my next order, thanks, DoN. Enjoy, DoN. |
#21
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
On 2012-03-16, Spehro Pefhany wrote:
On 15 Mar 2012 22:33:55 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" wrote: Note that in your Subject line, you said 0-80, not 00-xx. Yes! Don't need to go further than 0, thanks. Good enough. [ ... ] At that price, I would get one, and try it with your #00-96 was that the pitch for a #00? 0-80 is all I need. I'll get one of the little guys with my next order, thanks, DoN. You're welcome. Remember to order some spiral point ("gun") taps to go with it, if you don't already have some. (I actually like them for hand tapping as well, when doing through holes, at least.) For that matter, if you have enough room behind the workpiece, the combination drill and tap works quite well -- at least in 1/4-20 in 1/2" aluminum and 1/4" steel at least -- the only places I've used it. That 1/2" aluminum was about the maximum thickness for a through-tapped hole in that size with the combo drill/tap. I need to get and try some other sizes. Enjoy, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#22
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
On Mar 14, 12:42*pm, Spehro Pefhany
wrote: Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? While I could be wrong on this, given the fairly thin material, I suspect you might get away with it. |
#23
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
Spehro,
The sanity, or lack thereof, is more likely associated with runout and hand shake of cordless drill. Bob Swinney "Spehro Pefhany" wrote in message ... Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? |
#24
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How bad is 0-80 to tap in aluminum?
"Spehro Pefhany" wrote in message ... Looking at using some relatively small screws tapped into (probably) 6061 aluminum. Through holes, maybe 0.08" of material. Is it insanity to think about using a cordless hand drill and run them right through without backing off (assuming a good quality coated tap and aluminum cutting fluid)? __________________________________________ Go for it! Removing broken taps won't be that bad. Try a drill guide to keep them straight. Even wit broken taps it will be faster than any other method. |
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