I'm sure, this has been discussed to death. And, I'll start a flame war.
Various people quoting authorities back to Aristotle, and Confuscious.

Which spray lubes do what? I was helping do a brake job, Saturday. The lugs
didn't want to come off. The drums rotted to the hub, the rotors rotted to
the hub. Bolts that were supposed to hold a bracket over the rotor, rusted.

The folks who own the car were using WD as a lubricant. Try to free drums
from hub, and free bolts to come out. Wasn't doing much that I could tell.
I've tried Deep Lube, PB Blaster, Kroil, and Castle Thrust. Of those, I
recently had a really good result with Castle Thrust (Ion activated!).

I'm in New York State, so we have plenty of rock salt on the roads, and rust
is a major issue. What's likely to penetrate and loosen rusted drums, hubs,
rotors, lug nuts, bolts, etc?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 01/29/2012 08:19 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm sure, this has been discussed to death. And, I'll start a flame war.
Various people quoting authorities back to Aristotle, and Confuscious.

Which spray lubes do what? I was helping do a brake job, Saturday. The lugs
didn't want to come off. The drums rotted to the hub, the rotors rotted to
the hub. Bolts that were supposed to hold a bracket over the rotor, rusted.

The folks who own the car were using WD as a lubricant. Try to free drums
from hub, and free bolts to come out. Wasn't doing much that I could tell.
I've tried Deep Lube, PB Blaster, Kroil, and Castle Thrust. Of those, I
recently had a really good result with Castle Thrust (Ion activated!).

Sure, protons. Can't beat 'em.

I'm in New York State, so we have plenty of rock salt on the roads, and rust
is a major issue. What's likely to penetrate and loosen rusted drums, hubs,
rotors, lug nuts, bolts, etc?

I've read about Automatic Transmission Fluid, and.. and... kerosene? A
mix of ATF and kerosene (I think) is reputedly the best, followed by
Kroil, PB Blaster, etc., on down to WD40 bringing up the rear.

I've read about Automatic Transmission Fluid, and.. and... kerosene? A mix
of ATF and kerosene (I think) is reputedly the best, followed by Kroil, PB
Blaster, etc., on down to WD40 bringing up the rear.

Can't argue with this order too much. You can't beat a smoke wrench (torch)
to make it work faster. For the first time, I go only say 300 degrees and
squirt my favorite stuff on (any higher and it catches fire). Give it
several minutes to cool and work. In my experience this gets 95% of the ones
that will ever come apart. For the worst, I go hotter, let it cool below the
fire point, apply the stuff. Then the key is time, wait several hours,
re-apply, go to bed, re apply, wait some more; then hit it. When that don't
work set the smoke wrench on high and cut it out.





The first item you mention is almost Ed's Red:

CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

a.. 1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.

b.. 1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1

c.. 1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits

d.. 1 part CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS
#8052-41-3, or equivalent. (WD40 is nearly all stoddard solvent)

e.. 1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1. (finger nail polish remover)

f.. (Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to
substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

On Jan 29, 9:19*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
I'm sure, this has been discussed to death. And, I'll start a flame war.
Various people quoting authorities back to Aristotle, and Confuscious.

Which spray lubes do what? I was helping do a brake job, Saturday. The lugs
didn't want to come off. The drums rotted to the hub, the rotors rotted to
the hub. Bolts that were supposed to hold a bracket over the rotor, rusted.

The folks who own the car were using WD as a lubricant. Try to free drums
from hub, and free bolts to come out. Wasn't doing much that I could tell..
I've tried Deep Lube, PB Blaster, Kroil, and Castle Thrust. Of those, I
recently had a really good result with Castle Thrust (Ion activated!).

I'm in New York State, so we have plenty of rock salt on the roads, and rust
is a major issue. What's likely to penetrate and loosen rusted drums, hubs,
rotors, lug nuts, bolts, etc?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

Well, WD40 just isn't going to do it. I've used LPS 1 for years. The
roommate at the time had a Bronco that came out of WI and I had to
remove the bumper bolts. I was chinning myself on a 4' cheater, not
moving. I had just gotten a can of LPS 1, so tried that. Spritzed
the back and came back the next morning, the stuff had spread out in a
6" bullseye on the front. The nuts came off with one hand like they
were new. So when I can get it, that's the stuff I use for a
penetrant. Just tried Seafoam's Deep Creep, smells like LPS 2 but
lighter weight. Haven't had any stuff as rusted up as that Bronco,
but it worked on the latest buggy that's been salt-chewed a mite.
NAPA carries that. For brake drums, a propane torch going around and
around the stud circle plus a small sledge did the job. Eventually
went pong and could be popped off. Don't have caliper problems, knock
two keys out on the Ford and they lift right off. Rotors needed some
heavy persuasion to come off the studs, but weren't welded on with
rust. A 2 lb sledge does wonders.

Stan

On 1/29/2012 10:19 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm sure, this has been discussed to death. And, I'll start a flame war.
Various people quoting authorities back to Aristotle, and Confuscious.

Which spray lubes do what? I was helping do a brake job, Saturday. The lugs
didn't want to come off. The drums rotted to the hub, the rotors rotted to
the hub. Bolts that were supposed to hold a bracket over the rotor, rusted.

The folks who own the car were using WD as a lubricant. Try to free drums
from hub, and free bolts to come out. Wasn't doing much that I could tell.
I've tried Deep Lube, PB Blaster, Kroil, and Castle Thrust. Of those, I
recently had a really good result with Castle Thrust (Ion activated!).

I'm in New York State, so we have plenty of rock salt on the roads, and rust
is a major issue. What's likely to penetrate and loosen rusted drums, hubs,
rotors, lug nuts, bolts, etc?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.



last time I had to remove front disks on a vehicle (my own truck) I had
to use a big gear puller.

A bit of the hub sticks through the rotor when mounted, and the hub
surface rusts enough to bond the rotor on. The join of the two parts was
in a bit of a crack, so there was no way to wire brush it clean.

On Mon, 30 Jan 2012 13:22:00 -0600, DougC
wrote:

On 1/29/2012 10:19 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm sure, this has been discussed to death. And, I'll start a flame war.
Various people quoting authorities back to Aristotle, and Confuscious.

Which spray lubes do what? I was helping do a brake job, Saturday. The lugs
didn't want to come off. The drums rotted to the hub, the rotors rotted to
the hub. Bolts that were supposed to hold a bracket over the rotor, rusted.

The folks who own the car were using WD as a lubricant. Try to free drums
from hub, and free bolts to come out. Wasn't doing much that I could tell.
I've tried Deep Lube, PB Blaster, Kroil, and Castle Thrust. Of those, I
recently had a really good result with Castle Thrust (Ion activated!).

I'm in New York State, so we have plenty of rock salt on the roads, and rust
is a major issue. What's likely to penetrate and loosen rusted drums, hubs,
rotors, lug nuts, bolts, etc?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.



last time I had to remove front disks on a vehicle (my own truck) I had
to use a big gear puller.

A bit of the hub sticks through the rotor when mounted, and the hub
surface rusts enough to bond the rotor on. The join of the two parts was
in a bit of a crack, so there was no way to wire brush it clean.

When you put discs back on after cleaning them, apply anti-seize to
the hub and inside of the disc hole. That stops them from rusting on
and makes it easier to remove them in the future.

Jim

On the one couple of bolts, that held the bracket over the rotor. I did find
that heat worked better than WD, to get it loosened up. I had to angle the
flame in, so as not to light up the CV boot. Seems like something
combustible is always near by.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...

Can't argue with this order too much. You can't beat a smoke wrench (torch)
to make it work faster. For the first time, I go only say 300 degrees and
squirt my favorite stuff on (any higher and it catches fire). Give it
several minutes to cool and work. In my experience this gets 95% of the ones
that will ever come apart. For the worst, I go hotter, let it cool below the
fire point, apply the stuff. Then the key is time, wait several hours,
re-apply, go to bed, re apply, wait some more; then hit it. When that don't
work set the smoke wrench on high and cut it out.

Normally, I do exactly that. Well, both of those. Wire brush to remove as
much rust as I could (don't think I had a wire brush within reach). And
then, never sieze for assembly. Tube of never sieze was many miles away.

Unfortunately, this wasn't a normal situation.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

A bit of the hub sticks through the rotor when mounted, and the hub
surface rusts enough to bond the rotor on. The join of the two parts was
in a bit of a crack, so there was no way to wire brush it clean.

When you put discs back on after cleaning them, apply anti-seize to
the hub and inside of the disc hole. That stops them from rusting on
and makes it easier to remove them in the future.

Jim

On Mon, 30 Jan 2012 21:23:39 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

On the one couple of bolts, that held the bracket over the rotor. I did find
that heat worked better than WD, to get it loosened up. I had to angle the
flame in, so as not to light up the CV boot. Seems like something
combustible is always near by.


As a heating/air conditioning guy..you must occasionally run across
asbestos panels on the inside of old furnaces, right? Remove from a
junk furnace and score and break into various sized pieces and use
those as backups in areas of flammibility

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On Jan 31, 3:56*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jan 2012 21:23:39 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"

wrote:
On the one couple of bolts, that held the bracket over the rotor. I did find
that heat worked better than WD, to get it loosened up. I had to angle the
flame in, so as not to light up the CV boot. Seems like something
combustible is always near by.

As a heating/air conditioning guy..you must occasionally run across
asbestos panels on the inside of old furnaces, right? *Remove from a
junk furnace and score and break into *various sized pieces and use
those as backups in areas of flammibility

Gunner

You can get flame guards/masks as a kind of ceramic cloth at big box
plumbing departments, have used mine a lot. Supposed to be used for
backing up copper solder jobs in tight spots where a torch flame will
burn down the house otherwise. Works well.

Stan

On Jan 29, 11:19*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Which spray lubes do what? I was helping do a brake job, Saturday. The lugs
didn't want to come off. The drums rotted to the hub, the rotors rotted to
the hub. Bolts that were supposed to hold a bracket over the rotor, rusted.


Christopher A. Young

Should be able to report or the effectiveness of Kroil in a day or
so. Some studs going thru a iron casting with a jam nut. Badly
rusted as it had been underwater for about 90 years. Ground a lot of
the jam nuts off and used a cold chisel to get all of the jam nuts
gone. Heated with a mapp torch and then applied Kroil. No immediate
joy. Will see if thing are better tomorrow. Otherwise it is drill
out and pick out time. No need for a left hand drill as the stud goes
thru the casting.


Dan

On Wed, 1 Feb 2012 15:12:51 -0800 (PST), Stanley Schaefer
wrote:

On Jan 31, 3:56*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jan 2012 21:23:39 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"

wrote:
On the one couple of bolts, that held the bracket over the rotor. I did find
that heat worked better than WD, to get it loosened up. I had to angle the
flame in, so as not to light up the CV boot. Seems like something
combustible is always near by.

As a heating/air conditioning guy..you must occasionally run across
asbestos panels on the inside of old furnaces, right? *Remove from a
junk furnace and score and break into *various sized pieces and use
those as backups in areas of flammibility

Gunner

You can get flame guards/masks as a kind of ceramic cloth at big box
plumbing departments, have used mine a lot. Supposed to be used for
backing up copper solder jobs in tight spots where a torch flame will
burn down the house otherwise. Works well.

Stan

Ive got 3-4 of them, Harbor Freight sells em too. But they are something
like 3x5 feet and wadding them up under a sink or in a tight place is a
pain in the ass. I cut one down, and it started unraveling pretty
quickly.
In rhetrospect..I should have cut it down, then done a sew around on
the sewing machine to keep it from unraveling

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

You know, I hadn't thought of that. I used to have a piece of sheet metal,
I'd put under fittings when I was doing HVAC install, and used to drip
silver solder on the condensor pad. Thanks for a great idea.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stanley Schaefer" wrote in message
...

You can get flame guards/masks as a kind of ceramic cloth at big box
plumbing departments, have used mine a lot. Supposed to be used for
backing up copper solder jobs in tight spots where a torch flame will
burn down the house otherwise. Works well.

Stan

I am curious how that works, for you.

Someone (probably here on RCM) suggested to drip candle wax (from a burning
slim taper candle) on the fitting, as it cools. The first drips of wax
probably vaporize, but then it goes in to the magic temp and then the
paraffin wicks into the threads. I'll admit, I've not tried this. Not sure I
had a candle availble, last Saturday.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

Should be able to report or the effectiveness of Kroil in a day or
so. Some studs going thru a iron casting with a jam nut. Badly
rusted as it had been underwater for about 90 years. Ground a lot of
the jam nuts off and used a cold chisel to get all of the jam nuts
gone. Heated with a mapp torch and then applied Kroil. No immediate
joy. Will see if thing are better tomorrow. Otherwise it is drill
out and pick out time. No need for a left hand drill as the stud goes
thru the casting.


Dan

On Thu, 2 Feb 2012 17:06:16 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I am curious how that works, for you.

Someone (probably here on RCM) suggested to drip candle wax (from a burning
slim taper candle) on the fitting, as it cools. The first drips of wax
probably vaporize, but then it goes in to the magic temp and then the
paraffin wicks into the threads. I'll admit, I've not tried this. Not sure I
had a candle availble, last Saturday.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
...

Should be able to report or the effectiveness of Kroil in a day or
so. Some studs going thru a iron casting with a jam nut. Badly
rusted as it had been underwater for about 90 years. Ground a lot of
the jam nuts off and used a cold chisel to get all of the jam nuts
gone. Heated with a mapp torch and then applied Kroil. No immediate
joy. Will see if thing are better tomorrow. Otherwise it is drill
out and pick out time. No need for a left hand drill as the stud goes
thru the casting.


Dan

II've used the candle and it works - sometimes.

I don't expect any technique to work all the time. So, thanks, I'll remember
to try that. Have to stock a candle of sorts in with my tools, now.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

I've used the candle and it works - sometimes.

On Feb 2, 1:11*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 1 Feb 2012 15:12:51 -0800 (PST), Stanley Schaefer





wrote:
On Jan 31, 3:56*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jan 2012 21:23:39 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"

wrote:
On the one couple of bolts, that held the bracket over the rotor. I did find
that heat worked better than WD, to get it loosened up. I had to angle the
flame in, so as not to light up the CV boot. Seems like something
combustible is always near by.

As a heating/air conditioning guy..you must occasionally run across
asbestos panels on the inside of old furnaces, right? *Remove from a
junk furnace and score and break into *various sized pieces and use
those as backups in areas of flammibility

Gunner

You can get flame guards/masks as a kind of ceramic cloth at big box
plumbing departments, have used mine a lot. *Supposed to be used for
backing up copper solder jobs in tight spots where a torch flame will
burn down the house otherwise. *Works well.

Stan

Ive got 3-4 of them, Harbor Freight sells em too. But they are something
like 3x5 feet and wadding them up under a sink or in a tight place is a
pain in the ass. I cut one down, and it started unraveling pretty
quickly.
*In rhetrospect..I should have cut it down, then done a sew around on
the sewing machine to keep it from unraveling

Gunner


Yeah, those are welding blankets, I need to get one or more of those.
The pad I have is about 9x12", good for packing in under a sink. Ace
had it, IIRC. Fits right in the zipper bag I've got for the torch and
soldering prep stuff for plumbing. Can put the full torch flame on it
and the wood in back of it doesn't even get warm, truly space-age
stuff. Haven't needed it a lot lately, most everything is plastic and
flex lines now, need channellocks more than a torch.

Stan

In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

I don't expect any technique to work all the time. So, thanks, I'll remember
to try that. Have to stock a candle of sorts in with my tools, now.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
...

I've used the candle and it works - sometimes.

Wax dissolves in ether, so wax followed by a spritz of starting fluid
may work.

Joe Gwinn