You have any of these? Not related or anything. Just came across this ad.


Working on an old Lincoln SA-200 welding machine with a Red Seal
continental F-163 motor.

Want to Buy --- Service manuals.



http://muskegon.craigslist.org/wan/2765256407.html



--
Steve Walker
(remove brain when replying)

On 2011-12-23, Steve Walker wrote:
You have any of these? Not related or anything. Just came across this ad.


Working on an old Lincoln SA-200 welding machine with a Red Seal
continental F-163 motor.

Want to Buy --- Service manuals.



http://muskegon.craigslist.org/wan/2765256407.html




I have them available online.

http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Continental-Engines/

I emailed that guy. Maybe it will help him.

Anyone wants a Pipeliner 400 welder with a Perkins 4-262 diesel
engine, with only TWO HOURS on the engine? With a military trailer?

i

On 2011-12-23, Ignoramus22709 wrote:
On 2011-12-23, Steve Walker wrote:
You have any of these? Not related or anything. Just came across this ad.


Working on an old Lincoln SA-200 welding machine with a Red Seal
continental F-163 motor.

Want to Buy --- Service manuals.



http://muskegon.craigslist.org/wan/2765256407.html




I have them available online.

http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Continental-Engines/

I emailed that guy. Maybe it will help him.

Anyone wants a Pipeliner 400 welder with a Perkins 4-262 diesel
engine, with only TWO HOURS on the engine? With a military trailer?

i

He replied, saying that he does not want downloads. I think that his
ads is a little bit not genuine, he is not working on anything, he
wants to buy them for resale.

i

On Thu, 22 Dec 2011 21:30:59 -0600, Ignoramus22709
wrote:

On 2011-12-23, Steve Walker wrote:
You have any of these? Not related or anything. Just came across this ad.


Working on an old Lincoln SA-200 welding machine with a Red Seal
continental F-163 motor.

Want to Buy --- Service manuals.



http://muskegon.craigslist.org/wan/2765256407.html




I have them available online.

http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Continental-Engines/

I emailed that guy. Maybe it will help him.

Anyone wants a Pipeliner 400 welder with a Perkins 4-262 diesel
engine, with only TWO HOURS on the engine? With a military trailer?

i

How much? Got a pic? Could sell that easily here in the oil patch.

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On 2011-12-24, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 22 Dec 2011 21:30:59 -0600, Ignoramus22709
wrote:

On 2011-12-23, Steve Walker wrote:
You have any of these? Not related or anything. Just came across this ad.


Working on an old Lincoln SA-200 welding machine with a Red Seal
continental F-163 motor.

Want to Buy --- Service manuals.



http://muskegon.craigslist.org/wan/2765256407.html




I have them available online.

http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Continental-Engines/

I emailed that guy. Maybe it will help him.

Anyone wants a Pipeliner 400 welder with a Perkins 4-262 diesel
engine, with only TWO HOURS on the engine? With a military trailer?

i

How much? Got a pic? Could sell that easily here in the oil patch.

It will be comparatively expensive due to 2 hours, Perkins 4.236
engine and military origin (assuming it still works).

It is on trailer with a lot of cabinets etc. Room to put on tanks, a
compressor also.

Pix are here

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Military-Hobart-Welder/

I still have to go through the EUC process.

I doubt that I will sell it through this newsgroup ($8k), and will ask
for more elsewhere.

i

On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 07:18:49 -0600, Ignoramus22709
wrote:

On 2011-12-24, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 22 Dec 2011 21:30:59 -0600, Ignoramus22709
wrote:

On 2011-12-23, Steve Walker wrote:
You have any of these? Not related or anything. Just came across this ad.


Working on an old Lincoln SA-200 welding machine with a Red Seal
continental F-163 motor.

Want to Buy --- Service manuals.



http://muskegon.craigslist.org/wan/2765256407.html




I have them available online.

http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Continental-Engines/

I emailed that guy. Maybe it will help him.

Anyone wants a Pipeliner 400 welder with a Perkins 4-262 diesel
engine, with only TWO HOURS on the engine? With a military trailer?

i

How much? Got a pic? Could sell that easily here in the oil patch.

It will be comparatively expensive due to 2 hours, Perkins 4.236
engine and military origin (assuming it still works).

It is on trailer with a lot of cabinets etc. Room to put on tanks, a
compressor also.

Pix are here

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Military-Hobart-Welder/

I still have to go through the EUC process.

I doubt that I will sell it through this newsgroup ($8k), and will ask
for more elsewhere.

i

Nice rig!!

What did you get it for?

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On 2011-12-24, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 07:18:49 -0600, Ignoramus22709
wrote:

On 2011-12-24, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 22 Dec 2011 21:30:59 -0600, Ignoramus22709
wrote:

On 2011-12-23, Steve Walker wrote:
You have any of these? Not related or anything. Just came across this ad.


Working on an old Lincoln SA-200 welding machine with a Red Seal
continental F-163 motor.

Want to Buy --- Service manuals.



http://muskegon.craigslist.org/wan/2765256407.html




I have them available online.

http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Continental-Engines/

I emailed that guy. Maybe it will help him.

Anyone wants a Pipeliner 400 welder with a Perkins 4-262 diesel
engine, with only TWO HOURS on the engine? With a military trailer?

i

How much? Got a pic? Could sell that easily here in the oil patch.

It will be comparatively expensive due to 2 hours, Perkins 4.236
engine and military origin (assuming it still works).

It is on trailer with a lot of cabinets etc. Room to put on tanks, a
compressor also.

Pix are here

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Military-Hobart-Welder/

I still have to go through the EUC process.

I doubt that I will sell it through this newsgroup ($8k), and will ask
for more elsewhere.

i

Nice rig!!

What did you get it for?

$4k, Kind of a lot of money, that's why I have to ask for so much. It
cost the military $43k.

http://www.govliquidation.com/auctio...ategoryId=1004

This is a huge welder, with a 64-80 HP Perkins (depending on who to
believe). Of course, I am taking a risk that it is not functional,
such as engine rusted inside or the injection pump seals rotted. I am
generally optimistic and, to date, I had very good luck with diesel
powered equipment.

The price, obviously, assumes that the welder works.

If it works, I will ask for $9-10k elsewhere.

i

On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 10:09:12 -0600, Ignoramus22709
wrote:

On 2011-12-24, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 07:18:49 -0600, Ignoramus22709
wrote:

On 2011-12-24, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 22 Dec 2011 21:30:59 -0600, Ignoramus22709
wrote:

On 2011-12-23, Steve Walker wrote:
You have any of these? Not related or anything. Just came across this ad.


Working on an old Lincoln SA-200 welding machine with a Red Seal
continental F-163 motor.

Want to Buy --- Service manuals.



http://muskegon.craigslist.org/wan/2765256407.html




I have them available online.

http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Continental-Engines/

I emailed that guy. Maybe it will help him.

Anyone wants a Pipeliner 400 welder with a Perkins 4-262 diesel
engine, with only TWO HOURS on the engine? With a military trailer?

i

How much? Got a pic? Could sell that easily here in the oil patch.

It will be comparatively expensive due to 2 hours, Perkins 4.236
engine and military origin (assuming it still works).

It is on trailer with a lot of cabinets etc. Room to put on tanks, a
compressor also.

Pix are here

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Military-Hobart-Welder/

I still have to go through the EUC process.

I doubt that I will sell it through this newsgroup ($8k), and will ask
for more elsewhere.

i

Nice rig!!

What did you get it for?

$4k, Kind of a lot of money, that's why I have to ask for so much. It
cost the military $43k.

http://www.govliquidation.com/auctio...ategoryId=1004

This is a huge welder, with a 64-80 HP Perkins (depending on who to
believe). Of course, I am taking a risk that it is not functional,
such as engine rusted inside or the injection pump seals rotted. I am
generally optimistic and, to date, I had very good luck with diesel
powered equipment.

The price, obviously, assumes that the welder works.

If it works, I will ask for $9-10k elsewhere.

i

Im fully confident you will get it. A new coat of Paint might be a
selling point on this..but...shrug

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On 2011-12-24, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 10:09:12 -0600, Ignoramus22709
wrote:

On 2011-12-24, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 07:18:49 -0600, Ignoramus22709
wrote:

On 2011-12-24, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 22 Dec 2011 21:30:59 -0600, Ignoramus22709
wrote:

On 2011-12-23, Steve Walker wrote:
You have any of these? Not related or anything. Just came across this ad.


Working on an old Lincoln SA-200 welding machine with a Red Seal
continental F-163 motor.

Want to Buy --- Service manuals.



http://muskegon.craigslist.org/wan/2765256407.html




I have them available online.

http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Continental-Engines/

I emailed that guy. Maybe it will help him.

Anyone wants a Pipeliner 400 welder with a Perkins 4-262 diesel
engine, with only TWO HOURS on the engine? With a military trailer?

i

How much? Got a pic? Could sell that easily here in the oil patch.

It will be comparatively expensive due to 2 hours, Perkins 4.236
engine and military origin (assuming it still works).

It is on trailer with a lot of cabinets etc. Room to put on tanks, a
compressor also.

Pix are here

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Military-Hobart-Welder/

I still have to go through the EUC process.

I doubt that I will sell it through this newsgroup ($8k), and will ask
for more elsewhere.

i

Nice rig!!

What did you get it for?

$4k, Kind of a lot of money, that's why I have to ask for so much. It
cost the military $43k.

http://www.govliquidation.com/auctio...ategoryId=1004

This is a huge welder, with a 64-80 HP Perkins (depending on who to
believe). Of course, I am taking a risk that it is not functional,
such as engine rusted inside or the injection pump seals rotted. I am
generally optimistic and, to date, I had very good luck with diesel
powered equipment.

The price, obviously, assumes that the welder works.

If it works, I will ask for $9-10k elsewhere.

i

Im fully confident you will get it. A new coat of Paint might be a
selling point on this..but...shrug

Thanks. I am a little reluctant to paint it. This CARC paint may be
good at not absorbing chemical weapons (I have a military chemical
weapon alarm for sale right now), but it is really nasty when it comes
to removing it, because it is toxic.

i

By the way... Does anyone know the closes equivalents of that CARC
camo paint, what are the closes black and green colors. THanks

Ignoramus22709 wrote:
By the way... Does anyone know the closes equivalents of that CARC
camo paint, what are the closes black and green colors. THanks

You can buy the exact paint at a Sherwin Williams Industrial paint
store. Dupont and PPG places will mix it for you as well. BUT you would
need to specify that you want CARC paint and not just a color equivalent.

Safe to work with it using a good suit and ASR hood. That is for ALL
work with true CARC paint.

Unless you plan on selling the welder back to the military though you
would probably be better off blasting the rust, priming and painting
with a single color. Also would be MUCH cheaper. The last time I priced
real CARC paint it was over $50.00 a quart for two part and almost
$75.00 a quart for single part paint.
You can buy Federal Yellow for around $100.00 a GALLON


The colors would be

Desert Tan 686 - FS595B Color 33446
Green 383 - FS595B Color 34094
Black - FS595B Color 37030
Brown 383 - FS595B Color 30051



--
Steve W.

On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 15:47:03 -0600, Ignoramus22709
wrote:

On 2011-12-24, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 10:09:12 -0600, Ignoramus22709
wrote:

On 2011-12-24, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 07:18:49 -0600, Ignoramus22709
wrote:

On 2011-12-24, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 22 Dec 2011 21:30:59 -0600, Ignoramus22709
wrote:

On 2011-12-23, Steve Walker wrote:
You have any of these? Not related or anything. Just came across this ad.


Working on an old Lincoln SA-200 welding machine with a Red Seal
continental F-163 motor.

Want to Buy --- Service manuals.



http://muskegon.craigslist.org/wan/2765256407.html




I have them available online.

http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Continental-Engines/

I emailed that guy. Maybe it will help him.

Anyone wants a Pipeliner 400 welder with a Perkins 4-262 diesel
engine, with only TWO HOURS on the engine? With a military trailer?

i

How much? Got a pic? Could sell that easily here in the oil patch.

It will be comparatively expensive due to 2 hours, Perkins 4.236
engine and military origin (assuming it still works).

It is on trailer with a lot of cabinets etc. Room to put on tanks, a
compressor also.

Pix are here

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Military-Hobart-Welder/

I still have to go through the EUC process.

I doubt that I will sell it through this newsgroup ($8k), and will ask
for more elsewhere.

i

Nice rig!!

What did you get it for?

$4k, Kind of a lot of money, that's why I have to ask for so much. It
cost the military $43k.

http://www.govliquidation.com/auctio...ategoryId=1004

This is a huge welder, with a 64-80 HP Perkins (depending on who to
believe). Of course, I am taking a risk that it is not functional,
such as engine rusted inside or the injection pump seals rotted. I am
generally optimistic and, to date, I had very good luck with diesel
powered equipment.

The price, obviously, assumes that the welder works.

If it works, I will ask for $9-10k elsewhere.

i

Im fully confident you will get it. A new coat of Paint might be a
selling point on this..but...shrug

Thanks. I am a little reluctant to paint it. This CARC paint may be
good at not absorbing chemical weapons (I have a military chemical
weapon alarm for sale right now), but it is really nasty when it comes
to removing it, because it is toxic.

i

Who said anything about removing it??

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

Does anyone have a schematic of the circuit boards in a Lincoln
Square Wave TIG 300? I have what Lincoln releases to to public,
which is just a wiring diagram of the whole machine. All the
PC boards are just squares on the drawing.

When I got it (used) I was able to trace down the bad Tantalum
capacitor that caused the shield gas postflow to stay on
forever. Now I have a more difficult problem to solve.
When the machine is first turned on after a period of not
being used, I can't get any arc current. It indicates 72 V
and 0-7 Amps on the LED meters, even if the electrode is
shorted to the ground clamp. The high frequency works like
mad, but there is no main arc current. It seems to take
10-15 minutes of trying, and suddenly jumps to life. This last
time I fiddles with the switches again, and that's when it started
working, so it could be a dirty contact in the HF start/always/off
switch. But, in previous cases it just started working at one
point with no flipping of switches.

Has anyone else seen a similar problem with a Lincoln square
wave TIG machine? I am suspecting another bad capacitor, but
it would be hard to track down without detailed schematics of
the boards.

Thanks for any hints in the right direction.

Another problem is the torch is getting plugged up and I have to
run the cooler for minutes before there is just the most meager
flow. The outlet from the cooler is plenty strong. Is there something
I can put in the torch to flush it out? (I discovered the tank in the
cooler had slowly evaporated, and was really low. I added a bunch
of water. next time at the welding place I will get a new batch of
cooler fluid and replace.) I filled it originally with this greenish stuff
specifically sold for TIG coolers.

Thanks, again.

Jon

Jon Elson wrote:

Does anyone have a schematic of the circuit boards in a Lincoln
Square Wave TIG 300? I have what Lincoln releases to to public,
which is just a wiring diagram of the whole machine. All the
PC boards are just squares on the drawing.

When I got it (used) I was able to trace down the bad Tantalum
capacitor that caused the shield gas postflow to stay on
forever. Now I have a more difficult problem to solve.
When the machine is first turned on after a period of not
being used, I can't get any arc current. It indicates 72 V
and 0-7 Amps on the LED meters, even if the electrode is
shorted to the ground clamp. The high frequency works like
mad, but there is no main arc current. It seems to take
10-15 minutes of trying, and suddenly jumps to life. This last
time I fiddles with the switches again, and that's when it started
working, so it could be a dirty contact in the HF start/always/off
switch. But, in previous cases it just started working at one
point with no flipping of switches.

Has anyone else seen a similar problem with a Lincoln square
wave TIG machine? I am suspecting another bad capacitor, but
it would be hard to track down without detailed schematics of
the boards.

Thanks for any hints in the right direction.

Another problem is the torch is getting plugged up and I have to
run the cooler for minutes before there is just the most meager
flow. The outlet from the cooler is plenty strong. Is there something
I can put in the torch to flush it out? (I discovered the tank in the
cooler had slowly evaporated, and was really low. I added a bunch
of water. next time at the welding place I will get a new batch of
cooler fluid and replace.) I filled it originally with this greenish stuff
specifically sold for TIG coolers.


That sounds like you may have some bad electrolytics on the
conrtroller board. The ESR drops some as they heat up, and start
working.

http://www.radiolocman.com/shem/shem....html?di=20764 is a '99 cent
ESR meter' and gives some basic information on testing them.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

On Mon, 26 Dec 2011 21:23:56 -0600, Jon Elson
wrote:

Does anyone have a schematic of the circuit boards in a Lincoln
Square Wave TIG 300? I have what Lincoln releases to to public,
which is just a wiring diagram of the whole machine. All the
PC boards are just squares on the drawing.

When I got it (used) I was able to trace down the bad Tantalum
capacitor that caused the shield gas postflow to stay on
forever. Now I have a more difficult problem to solve.
When the machine is first turned on after a period of not
being used, I can't get any arc current. It indicates 72 V
and 0-7 Amps on the LED meters, even if the electrode is
shorted to the ground clamp. The high frequency works like
mad, but there is no main arc current. It seems to take
10-15 minutes of trying, and suddenly jumps to life. This last
time I fiddles with the switches again, and that's when it started
working, so it could be a dirty contact in the HF start/always/off
switch. But, in previous cases it just started working at one
point with no flipping of switches.

Has anyone else seen a similar problem with a Lincoln square
wave TIG machine? I am suspecting another bad capacitor, but
it would be hard to track down without detailed schematics of
the boards.

Thanks for any hints in the right direction.

Another problem is the torch is getting plugged up and I have to
run the cooler for minutes before there is just the most meager
flow. The outlet from the cooler is plenty strong. Is there something
I can put in the torch to flush it out? (I discovered the tank in the
cooler had slowly evaporated, and was really low. I added a bunch
of water. next time at the welding place I will get a new batch of
cooler fluid and replace.) I filled it originally with this greenish stuff
specifically sold for TIG coolers.

Thanks, again.

Jon


I recently gave one one of those away. Mine would preform normally on
AC..but when swtiched to DC..no matter what the setting..it was 300 amps
at the torch. No matter the polarity...300 amps at the torch.

Yet AC worked just fine.

The guy I gave it to does mostly aluminum, but says he will have it
looked after..one of these days.

I may..may have the schematics for it..Ill check

Shrug

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

Gunner Asch wrote:


I may..may have the schematics for it..Ill check
I'd greatly appreciate it! I have the machine wiring, which is
helpful, but no details on the boards themselves.

Jon

Michael A. Terrell wrote:



That sounds like you may have some bad electrolytics on the
conrtroller board. The ESR drops some as they heat up, and start
working.

The main board has dozens of large Tantalum capacitors, and older
tantalum caps tend to fail with various symptoms when not kept
polarized fairly frequently. I already fixed one bad one that was
pretty easy to locate, the postflow timer. This fault, if it is
a capacitor, is going to take more detective work.

The board is conformally coated, so any rework is a very painful
process involving carving the coating off with an X-acto knife.
So, shotgunning all the dozens of caps on the board is not practical.

Jon

On 12/27/2011 12:28 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
Michael A. Terrell wrote:



That sounds like you may have some bad electrolytics on the
conrtroller board. The ESR drops some as they heat up, and start
working.

The main board has dozens of large Tantalum capacitors, and older
tantalum caps tend to fail with various symptoms when not kept
polarized fairly frequently. I already fixed one bad one that was
pretty easy to locate, the postflow timer. This fault, if it is
a capacitor, is going to take more detective work.

The board is conformally coated, so any rework is a very painful
process involving carving the coating off with an X-acto knife.
So, shotgunning all the dozens of caps on the board is not practical.

Jon

you may want to spend $80 and buy an ESR meter - that will help you find
bad caps easily - there is one called "blue" that is a kit, easy to
assemble, you can get it from ebay or from the factory

Jon Elson wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:


That sounds like you may have some bad electrolytics on the
conrtroller board. The ESR drops some as they heat up, and start
working.

The main board has dozens of large Tantalum capacitors, and older
tantalum caps tend to fail with various symptoms when not kept
polarized fairly frequently. I already fixed one bad one that was
pretty easy to locate, the postflow timer. This fault, if it is
a capacitor, is going to take more detective work.

The board is conformally coated, so any rework is a very painful
process involving carving the coating off with an X-acto knife.
So, shotgunning all the dozens of caps on the board is not practical.


A hot soldering iron should cut throught the conformal coating. If
it is a hard and shiny coating, GC Printkote Solvent may remove it where
you need to work. If it's the soft rubbery crap, it can cause problems
of it's own. I don't shotgun, I find the failures.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

Bill wrote:

On 12/27/2011 12:28 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
Michael A. Terrell wrote:



That sounds like you may have some bad electrolytics on the
conrtroller board. The ESR drops some as they heat up, and start
working.

The main board has dozens of large Tantalum capacitors, and older
tantalum caps tend to fail with various symptoms when not kept
polarized fairly frequently. I already fixed one bad one that was
pretty easy to locate, the postflow timer. This fault, if it is
a capacitor, is going to take more detective work.

The board is conformally coated, so any rework is a very painful
process involving carving the coating off with an X-acto knife.
So, shotgunning all the dozens of caps on the board is not practical.

Jon

you may want to spend $80 and buy an ESR meter - that will help you find
bad caps easily - there is one called "blue" that is a kit, easy to
assemble, you can get it from ebay or from the factory


I posted a link to a simple "99 cent" adapter to use a scope to test
ESR, upthread.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

Gunner Asch wrote:

I recently gave one one of those away. Mine would preform normally on
AC..but when swtiched to DC..no matter what the setting..it was 300 amps
at the torch. No matter the polarity...300 amps at the torch.

Yet AC worked just fine.

The guy I gave it to does mostly aluminum, but says he will have it
looked after..one of these days.

I may..may have the schematics for it..Ill check


If you have board level schematics, I'd love to have a copy.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

Michael A. Terrell wrote:


A hot soldering iron should cut throught the conformal coating. If
it is a hard and shiny coating, GC Printkote Solvent may remove it where
you need to work. If it's the soft rubbery crap, it can cause problems
of it's own. I don't shotgun, I find the failures.


Yes, and that is why knowing which 2 or 3 caps would be the most likely
suspects is the only way to deal with this. The Lincoln Square Wave
TIG is a rather complicated machine, the main board is about a foot square
with several dozen 4000-series CMOS chips on it. I think there is an SCR
trigger board that also has over a dozen chips.

Burning through the coating with a soldering iron is hard on the iron and
makes a real mess of the board, too, making resoldering difficult later.
The coating, as I remember, is the hard stuff.

So, I'm hoping somebody can come up with a diagram of the boards.

Thanks,

Jon

Jon Elson wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

A hot soldering iron should cut throught the conformal coating. If
it is a hard and shiny coating, GC Printkote Solvent may remove it where
you need to work. If it's the soft rubbery crap, it can cause problems
of it's own. I don't shotgun, I find the failures.


Yes, and that is why knowing which 2 or 3 caps would be the most likely
suspects is the only way to deal with this. The Lincoln Square Wave
TIG is a rather complicated machine, the main board is about a foot square
with several dozen 4000-series CMOS chips on it. I think there is an SCR
trigger board that also has over a dozen chips.


CMOS is sensitive to spikes on the power rails. It sounds like
someone should make a replacement board with modern ICs. It wouldn't be
that difficult, with a schematic of the original board.


Burning through the coating with a soldering iron is hard on the iron and
makes a real mess of the board, too, making resoldering difficult later.
The coating, as I remember, is the hard stuff.


I use a cheap soldering iron I ought for a buck for that kind of
work. As long as you wipe the crap off and keep it tinned, it will last
a long time.


So, I'm hoping somebody can come up with a diagram of the boards.


That does make it easier.

--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

Michael A. Terrell wrote:


CMOS is sensitive to spikes on the power rails. It sounds like
someone should make a replacement board with modern ICs. It wouldn't be
that difficult, with a schematic of the original board.


Obviously, Lincoln has this figured out. If operating inside a welder
with 300+ Amps and the HF system going doesn't upset it or cause random
failures, they did their homework correctly.

I also use 4000-series CMOS in servo amps with 120+ V and 20 Amps, because
they can run off 12 V rails, therefore more immune to electrical noise.

Jon

Jon Elson wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

?
? CMOS is sensitive to spikes on the power rails. It sounds like
? someone should make a replacement board with modern ICs. It wouldn't be
? that difficult, with a schematic of the original board.
?
?
Obviously, Lincoln has this figured out. If operating inside a welder
with 300+ Amps and the HF system going doesn't upset it or cause random
failures, they did their homework correctly.

I also use 4000-series CMOS in servo amps with 120+ V and 20 Amps, because
they can run off 12 V rails, therefore more immune to electrical noise.


They will run off CLEAN 12 volt rails. Get some noise or ripple on
the supply rails or in the ground circuit and they get flaky, or go into
lockup which can destroy the chips. The 4000 series was the worst of
the CMOS families for problems. The 74c, 74 HC and 74 HCT families are
much better. BTDT, spent a lot of time with a scope to track down
erratic operation in CMOS circuits. One turned out to be bad PEM studs
where the board was mounted to the chassis and a ground loop was
modulating the supposed ground.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.