Three "tin" cans of steel with adhesive and "tin" burned off in an
oven.

Three jaw 6 inch chuck.

1/4 inch collet die grinder in lathe toolpost.

1/4 inch two flute HSS wood routing bit

*Drill 12 holes around bottom of inner can.

* Drill 12 holes around top of second can.

* Drill 12 holes at base of outer can.

Seal with silicone o-rings.

--This much has already been done. Today I am doing:

Cast wax into outer bottom of inner can, inner bottom of second can,
and outer bottom of second can.
Invest wax.
Cast pewter today, aluminum one day.
Mill square "pillar" between inner and second can, with clearance
for...

Peltier Device! (No ****, I think this will work)

Heat sink putty device to cans with fiberglass barrier.

Mill heat sink fins in casting fitting outer bottom of second can.

Nest with o-rings.
Route wires to a tiny fan.
Fire it up and see it ... it runs forever, no batteries needed.

Should be a *blast*.

I have a Sierra Stove that uses only 1 AA cell in 18 hours.
A small Pelter device *just might do it*.

We'll see.

Miss ya guys! Been totally screwed up for nearly a year. Better now.

Doug Goncz
Replikon Research
Seven Corners, VA 22044-0394

On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 06:04:17 -0800, Doug Goncz, CPS wrote:

Three "tin" cans of steel with adhesive and "tin" burned off in an oven.
[etc]
*Drill 12 holes around bottom of inner can.
[etc]
--This much has already been done. Today I am doing:

Cast wax into outer bottom of inner can, inner bottom of second can, and
outer bottom of second can.
Invest wax.
Cast pewter today, aluminum one day.
Mill square "pillar" between inner and second can, with clearance for...
[Peltier, Heat sink, fins etc]
Route wires to a tiny fan.
Fire it up and see it ... it runs forever, no batteries needed.
....
I have a Sierra Stove that uses only 1 AA cell in 18 hours. A small
Peltier device *just might do it*.

Are you talking about wood-burning camp stoves as in the Zip
Stoves/Turbo Stoves section of http://zenstoves.net/Wood.htm?
Or at http://www.schistory.net/campcroft/people/cooker.html?

Anyway, what will keep the pewter from melting, if it's
close to the heat?

Are you using a computer-cpu-cooling Peltier in reverse?
What kind of volts and amps do you get out of it at your
estimated operating temperature? Is weight not a concern?


--
jiw

James Waldby fired this volley in news:jaopm7$1ro$1
@dont-email.me:

Anyway, what will keep the pewter from melting, if it's
close to the heat?


Pewter is a "proof casting". ("aluminum someday")

LLoyd

On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 06:04:17 -0800 (PST), "Doug Goncz, CPS"
wrote:
Greetings Doug,
I saw your name and was surprised because it's been so long. I'm glad
to see your post. Please post pictures of your TE device.
Cheers,
Eric
Three "tin" cans of steel with adhesive and "tin" burned off in an
oven.

Three jaw 6 inch chuck.

1/4 inch collet die grinder in lathe toolpost.

1/4 inch two flute HSS wood routing bit

*Drill 12 holes around bottom of inner can.

* Drill 12 holes around top of second can.

* Drill 12 holes at base of outer can.

Seal with silicone o-rings.

--This much has already been done. Today I am doing:

Cast wax into outer bottom of inner can, inner bottom of second can,
and outer bottom of second can.
Invest wax.
Cast pewter today, aluminum one day.
Mill square "pillar" between inner and second can, with clearance
for...

Peltier Device! (No ****, I think this will work)

Heat sink putty device to cans with fiberglass barrier.

Mill heat sink fins in casting fitting outer bottom of second can.

Nest with o-rings.
Route wires to a tiny fan.
Fire it up and see it ... it runs forever, no batteries needed.

Should be a *blast*.

I have a Sierra Stove that uses only 1 AA cell in 18 hours.
A small Pelter device *just might do it*.

We'll see.

Miss ya guys! Been totally screwed up for nearly a year. Better now.

Doug Goncz
Replikon Research
Seven Corners, VA 22044-0394

On Nov 25, 9:04 am, "Doug Goncz, CPS"
(OK, it was actually me) (who) wrote:
Three "tin" cans of steel with adhesive and "tin" burned off in an
oven.
....
Cast wax into outer bottom of inner can, inner bottom of second can,
and outer bottom of second can.
Invest wax.
Cast pewter today, aluminum one day.
Mill square "pillar" between inner and second can, with clearance
for...

Peltier Device! (No ****, I think this will work)
....
Yes,

Yes,

James,
The idea is taken from Zen or Sierra stove, and is forced draft like
them, or the Stalag. Having the pewter melt is a Good Thing--it means
there's enough heat flow to generate electricity, and that it's worth
it to recast in aluminum, as suggested by

Lloyd,
who is spot on. It's a proof casting. Pulling was, sprues and gating,
investing, burnout, and casting are hard enough without creating a
serious fire hazard. So far it's all been indoors. A mechanic in
Maryland does engine castings on the side--I'd send it up.

Eric,
It *is* good to be back in here. I don't visit pubs but it's homey
here. When I moved into the condo with Teri, I got depressed and got
help. When I got the Super Shop I got manic and got help. When I moved
to Alexandria I got depressed and got help. It pretty much burned out,
going up and down. I'm pretty level now, but ain't got much momentum,
coming out of depression, pretty calm and focussed but not really into
anything that adds up. Trying to attach to projects. Whole new med
regimen, but very little support for it from the providers. So...I"m
doin' OK!

Zero provides deep drawn aluminum or alloy pots. I've sized a series
of nesting pots with flanges for a later, prototype-level Peltier fire
pot.

You see the advantage? The battery never runs out and the hotter it
gets the hotter it gets, like a ramjet. I am thinking a decently sized
unti could power a cell phone, maybe even a netbook!

All by burning cow chips, pine cones, and standing dead wood!

It should be fun to try, anyway.

I cast wax yesterday and pulled three good reverse castings. They must
be invested, and I must find someone with a self-cleaning oven. That
type has enough temperature range to really melt the pewter evenly.
I'd melt it in a one-cup Pyrex ladle for pouring. I also have the
traditional blacksmith's bullet-casting round steel long handled
ladle, which works with my existing Sierra Stove, the home stove coil,
or that Meeker burner I set up recently. (Goodwill, $3--a screamin'
deal)

Doug

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 05:58:30 -0800 (PST), "Doug Goncz, CPS"
wrote:

On Nov 25, 9:04 am, "Doug Goncz, CPS"
(OK, it was actually me) (who) wrote:
Three "tin" cans of steel with adhesive and "tin" burned off in an
oven.
...
Cast wax into outer bottom of inner can, inner bottom of second can,
and outer bottom of second can.
Invest wax.
Cast pewter today, aluminum one day.
Mill square "pillar" between inner and second can, with clearance
for...

Peltier Device! (No ****, I think this will work)
...
Yes,

Yes,

James,
The idea is taken from Zen or Sierra stove, and is forced draft like
them, or the Stalag. Having the pewter melt is a Good Thing--it means
there's enough heat flow to generate electricity, and that it's worth
it to recast in aluminum, as suggested by

Lloyd,
who is spot on. It's a proof casting. Pulling was, sprues and gating,
investing, burnout, and casting are hard enough without creating a
serious fire hazard. So far it's all been indoors. A mechanic in
Maryland does engine castings on the side--I'd send it up.

Eric,
It *is* good to be back in here. I don't visit pubs but it's homey
here. When I moved into the condo with Teri, I got depressed and got
help. When I got the Super Shop I got manic and got help. When I moved
to Alexandria I got depressed and got help. It pretty much burned out,
going up and down. I'm pretty level now, but ain't got much momentum,
coming out of depression, pretty calm and focussed but not really into
anything that adds up. Trying to attach to projects. Whole new med
regimen, but very little support for it from the providers. So...I"m
doin' OK!

Zero provides deep drawn aluminum or alloy pots. I've sized a series
of nesting pots with flanges for a later, prototype-level Peltier fire
pot.

You see the advantage? The battery never runs out and the hotter it
gets the hotter it gets, like a ramjet. I am thinking a decently sized
unti could power a cell phone, maybe even a netbook!

All by burning cow chips, pine cones, and standing dead wood!

It should be fun to try, anyway.

I cast wax yesterday and pulled three good reverse castings. They must
be invested, and I must find someone with a self-cleaning oven. That
type has enough temperature range to really melt the pewter evenly.
I'd melt it in a one-cup Pyrex ladle for pouring. I also have the
traditional blacksmith's bullet-casting round steel long handled
ladle, which works with my existing Sierra Stove, the home stove coil,
or that Meeker burner I set up recently. (Goodwill, $3--a screamin'
deal)

Doug
Have you looked into melting pewter in a microwave? Maybe you can't
melt enough though. If you melt in a self cleaning oven you will need
to make some type of setup where the metal is melted and cast in the
oven because they automatically lock the oven door until cool. And
this might be a problem anyway. Back around 1972 I made some pewter
according to an old recipe. This recipe included lead and bismuth,
along with the major ingredient tin. It may have included something
else but I don't remember. Anyway, it had to be stirred before pouring
if it had sat molten for a while because the lead would sink to the
bottom and the alloy would not be consistent when the pour was done.
Sorta like babbit. I don't know if modern lead free pewter alloys act
the same.
Eric

On Nov 26, 11:37*am, wrote:
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 05:58:30 -0800 (PST), "DougGoncz, CPS"
(wrote)
(OK, it was me)

I cast wax yesterday and pulled three good reverse castings. They must
be invested, and I must find someone with a self-cleaning oven. That
type has enough temperature range to really melt thepewterevenly.
I'd melt it in a one-cup Pyrex ladle for pouring. I also have the
traditional blacksmith's bullet-casting round steel long handled
ladle, which works with my existing Sierra Stove, the home stove coil,
or that Meeker burner I set up recently. (Goodwill, $3--a screamin'
deal)

Doug

Have you looked into meltingpewterin a microwave? Maybe you can't
melt enough though. If you melt in a self cleaning oven you will need
to make some type of setup where the metal is melted and cast in the
oven because they automatically lock the oven door until cool. And
this might be a problem anyway. Back around 1972 I made somepewter
according to an old recipe. This recipe included lead and bismuth,
along with the major ingredient tin. It may have included something
else but I don't remember. Anyway, it had to be stirred before pouring
if it had sat molten for a while because the lead would sink to the
bottom and the alloy would not be consistent when the pour was done.
Sorta like babbit. I don't know if modern lead freepewteralloys act
the same.
Eric- Hide quoted text -

I'll have to check Instructables and YouTube for that microwave
melting. I have heard of it. I have a 1 KVA variac and it would be
easy enough to "overclock" the klystron. It's not needed, though. It's
just something to try one day.

There are plenty of YouTubers and Instructabalists into alternative
energy looking at this. Most put the heat under the assembly. The
reverse burner is different. Cool air enters at the base.

I've ordered a half-dozen 1 pint and 1 quart dog food bowls at Amazon
for less than $2 each. In the absensce of a laser micro drill I tried
cobalt drilling with the router and a number 3. The tip works OK, the
cone section overloads the motor, leaving horrid burned burrs, so
it'll be a lot of little holes, but good control over the air
distribution pattern. My 6 inch chuck is graduated 36 lines and I just
started a rail for the headstock that can take a ten place vernier or
rule.

Three bowls will be the reverse air flow burner: an outer shell, a
reverse liner perforated only at the top, and an inner firepot liner
perforated different ways for trials. The same bowl, inverted, is the
battery/fan or Peliter/fan base. The same bowl, on hardware cloth or a
grate purpose made, is the cookpot or crucible. The same damn bowl, in
twos, holds food for you and your mate!

The bowls are spaced vertically with o-rings of stainless or silicone
and dip brazed or glued, depending on production volume.

I can't figure a reverse flow gasifier to take shreds from my desk
shredder and gasify them, though. Not in this pattern, anyway. More
like very steep trash cans in stainless. A long taper, and a larger
inner core. A heat sink, long and airy, to collect heat down to the
fan. Something like that.

One guy rams sawdust and shavings in coffee cans with a hole in the
middle around a tube fitting the hole, then removes the tube. You
light off one of those and it burns hot and clean for hours. A trace
of moisture or wax helps. Cased up on a pallet, loaded in hundred
lots, this could help a lot of people.

Maybe that's an idea for the gasifier. Preloads of can-in-can with
sawdust between. The inner can would have both ends cut out. The outer
can would have one full end out and one end with a hole to fit the
inner can. Slots help--I've tried them. I should get a job at the
grocery store! Or a pet store for the bowls....

I've found heat sinks engineered with spiral fins, a copper core, and
an attached fan for $9 on Digi-Key. Look at Yorkfield there. A similar
fan-on-sink with TEM is $7.50 at AllElectronics.

Why do I bother with this sh!t?

I have LabView and a USB-6008. My other project now is propane
operation of an Aprilia SR50 direct fuel injection motorcycle
(scooter). Some get 15 HP out of a 70 cc with port injection. Mine
makes 5 HP from 50 cc. I'd trim the air fuel ratio under closed loop
control to get more power. Propane would richen the mix. An option for
full propane operation--direct liquid propane injection in a two
stroke--exists, and would make history. Last week I stayed a home to
learn LabView. Simply pinching the injector fuel return line might do
as much.

Well, it's 5:45 AM. Time for a cup of rocket fuel, hot, black, and
sweet, like my last girlfriend, and then to the lathe.

Cheers!

Doug

On Sun, 18 Dec 2011 02:47:10 -0800 (PST), The Dougster
wrote:

--minor snip--
Why do I bother with this sh!t?

Then buying a shopload of equipment so you can make some $0.04
brackets isn't the way to go? Imagine that!


I have LabView and a USB-6008. My other project now is propane
operation of an Aprilia SR50 direct fuel injection motorcycle
(scooter). Some get 15 HP out of a 70 cc with port injection. Mine
makes 5 HP from 50 cc. I'd trim the air fuel ratio under closed loop
control to get more power. Propane would richen the mix. An option for
full propane operation--direct liquid propane injection in a two
stroke--exists, and would make history. Last week I stayed a home to
learn LabView. Simply pinching the injector fuel return line might do
as much.

So, was it worth a week to learn LabView?


Well, it's 5:45 AM. Time for a cup of rocket fuel, hot, black, and
sweet, like my last girlfriend, and then to the lathe.

I like my coffee like my women: hot, sweet, and creamy.

--
If you're trying to take a roomful of people by
surprise, it's a lot easier to hit your targets
if you don't yell going through the door.
-- Lois McMaster Bujold

On Dec 18 2011, 7:44*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Sun, 18 Dec 2011 02:47:10 -0800 (PST), The Dougster

wrote:

--minor snip--

Why do I bother with this sh!t?

Then buying a shopload of equipment so you can make some $0.04
brackets isn't the way to go? *Imagine that! *
Well, uh, it's OK, but only if the brackets are *good*.

I have LabView and a USB-6008. ...
So, was it worth a week to learn LabView?
Well, uh...yes, it was.


Well, it's 5:45 AM. Time for a cup of rocket fuel, hot, black, and
sweet, like my last girlfriend, and then to the lathe.

I like my coffee like my women: hot, sweet, and creamy.

Oh, Goddess! How many variations can we put on this?

I like my coffee cream to come like my women; hot and sweet.


--
If you're trying to take a roomful of people by
surprise, it's a lot easier to hit your targets
if you don't yell going through the door.
* * * * * * * * * * * * -- Lois McMaster Bujold

I know her!

Does anyone here know of some good magnesium alloys for casting
between two stainless bowls, or into a plaster molds made from those
bowls?

I have made some progress with the Fire Pot. I call it the Peltier Pot
now. Biolite patented it earlier, and the inventor won $75,000. My
only chance is DFM. I know DFM.

The bowls form a repeating module. A vertical offset of about 1/4 inch
between the inner stainless dog dish and the middle one establishes a
convergent air path ending in the vents feeding the fire bowl. A
larger offset of nearly 10 mm separates the middle and outer bowl
allowing a low-profile CPU/chip cooler 60x60 to blow air up to vents
at the top of the middle bowl for preheating from the inner bowl, like
a blast furnace, but not as hot. Recycling this heat does clean up
combustion. Biolite does not do this. They just add a vent fan and a
chip on the side. Electronics modulate the output to run the fan and
charge yer iPod.

I can do better. Rated 5V 1A max, the 30 x 30 mm Peltier devices I
found in WV are *designed* for waste heat, running up to 325 deg C
before the solder melts. That's 671 deg F, well above the temp of
ignition of paper or wood. Remember Fahreneit 451 by Ray Bradbury?
Gawd, I loved that one, and the film. I also enjoy Fahnestock clips,
still available!

4 such devices fit on a 60 x 60 cooler to give 20 V 1A in series. The
fan only needs 12 V so we can buck to 12 and have power to spare. We
can buck to 5V and charge TEN iPods! It's 20 watts.

I've ordered the appropriate CPU cooler. It remains to either buy the
Peltier, or apply for a job there and share the idea. He already makes
waste heat driven thermoelectric generators. He calls 'em TEGs. TEG-1
was huge, the size of a suitcase, and is listed in an archived web
page somewhere. It could power a house!

I think a TEG, ultracapacitor, and electric hybrid would do well in
the EPA city drive cycle, where stopping and starting gives the TEG
time to charge up the caps. It would be dangerously quite. Almost
spookily so, like a patrol vehicle. Ultracaps give great start/stop
performance with some of the dynamic braking circuits we have now,
based on these same boost/buck DC/DC converters. I could model this on
my MOEPED electric bike. It's back on road now, driving a 12 watt
rated LED from a 600 watt rated motor. The light is blinding. I'm
adding a camera mount to take night video.

Cheers,

Doug

Doug Goncz
Replikon Research

I've authorized a 60x60 mm CPU cooler with integrated fan to combine
later with 4 each 30x30 mm high-temp waste heat thermoelectric
generator modules. Authorized, because no more 60x60 mm units are
stocked. This is one of the last of stock, so this will be a one-off,
a proof-of concept. I intend to series-wire the TEG modules to drive
the fan at low delta T. Later I'll add a DC/DC converter.

The wax casting starting this thread now takes the form of a pound of
Gulfwax ready to pour in between the stainless dog dishes, or melt
into the gap. A spacer's needed. A 6061-T6 tubing ring would cost
pennies. I'll order when I get up something to cover shipping from
onlinemetals.com.

So, it's coming along.

Cheers,

Doug

On Jan 17, 7:54*am, Doug Goncz wrote:
I've authorized a 60x60 mm CPU cooler with integrated fan to combine
later with 4 each 30x30 mm high-temp waste heat thermoelectric
generator modules. Authorized, because no more 60x60 mm units are
stocked. This is one of the last of stock, so this will be a one-off,
a proof-of concept. I intend to series-wire the TEG modules to drive
the fan at low delta T. Later I'll add a DC/DC converter.

The wax casting starting this thread now takes the form of a pound of
Gulfwax ready to pour in between the stainless dog dishes, or melt
into the gap. A spacer's needed. A 6061-T6 tubing ring would cost
pennies. I'll order when I get up something to cover shipping from
onlinemetals.com.

So, it's coming along.

Cheers,

Doug

I set up a $1.25 stainless ladle, a $1.00 stainless grate, and a $2.25
can of Sterno from the dollar store using some bricks, and amazingly,
this crap was enough to melt a ladle full of pewter and a coating of
zinc chloride / ammonium chloride flux, which brightened the load
nicely.

That's five buck for a casting foundry.

I need another ladle for wax. I've got a vacuum lid investing pot and
a larger vaccum fitted pressure cooker for degassing the investment.

This is going to be fun. I'll do everything except actually pouring
the magnesium.

I went to a snuggle party at my 3rd girlfriend's, met a woman, and
slept with her. While my girlfriend slept with two other guys. On
mattresses, in front of a fire, snoring. Not that kind of slept, get
it? Just happy times. It was great!

Cheers,

Doug Goncz
Replikon Research

On Sun, 22 Jan 2012 17:29:06 -0800 (PST), Doug Goncz
wrote:

I went to a snuggle party at my 3rd girlfriend's, met a woman, and
slept with her. While my girlfriend slept with two other guys. On
mattresses, in front of a fire, snoring. Not that kind of slept, get
it? Just happy times. It was great!


A what?????

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On Monday, January 23, 2012 3:54:42 AM UTC-5, Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sun, 22 Jan 2012 17:29:06 -0800 (PST), Doug Goncz wrote: I went to a snuggle party at my 3rd girlfriend's, met a woman, and slept with her. While my girlfriend slept with two other guys. On mattresses, in front of a fire, snoring. Not that kind of slept, get it? Just happy times. It was great!


A what?????

A fire. We slept on mattresses and sofa cushions in front of a fire in a fireplace at the snuggle party. A snuggle party is a party where people are expected to invite each other to snunggle, cuddle, and touch, but not have sex, and where they are also expected to say no if they don't want to snuggle with a particular person, or in a particular way, or at a particular time, or all three.

The work on the Peltier Pot continues. Dixie Sheet metal in Falls Church nearby can punch the heatsink adapter plates. A dip brazer can join them. I can bolt them to make the Seebeck device stack, and wire a connector for the fan. I have designed a 3-stage punch that can make bowls 1, 2, and 3 of the stack of 3, progressively, as it is fed blank bowls, at a rate of one per second. I have designed a bowl feeder to feed the bowls to the punch. I have modeled the holes with drilling and reaming to establish proof of producibility, and proof of concept, that is, function, is a few steps away, taking only a few punched heat sink plates from Dixie and some dip brazing, a process I am familiar with.

It's getting there.

Doug

On Sunday, September 2, 2012 8:27:34 PM UTC-4, DGoncz wrote:
On Monday, January 23, 2012 3:54:42 AM UTC-5, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jan 2012 17:29:06 -0800 (PST), Doug Goncz wrote:
I went to a snuggle party at my 3rd girlfriend's, met a woman, and
slept with her. While my girlfriend slept with two other guys. On
mattresses, in front of a fire, snoring. Not that kind of slept, get it? Just happy times. It was great!

A what?????

A fire. We slept on mattresses and sofa cushions in front of a fire in a fireplace at the snuggle party. .... It's getting there. Doug

In the quart version, the center hole fits the Sierra stove fan neatly. In the pint version, the center hole fits a nosepiece made from a 24 ounce Arizona tea can, over a 5V or 12 V computer fan (a chip cooler tubeaxial fan), and that gets mounted in one of the same series bowls. The inner pot is redesigned with bottom holes, making it present in the kit in quantity two, once as said inner fire pot, once as the spaghetti strainer option. Any number of cooking or boiling or serving bowls fit on the base. The fan goes in the inner bowl.

It's coming along.

I did lap the compound slide and added stops for the center punch. Now, if the belt allows, I'll run the lathe at minimum 36 rpm, and add a detent ring to stop the rotation at 36 locations, to build a good rhythm for production of center punched bowls for drilling.

I may dado the alumium carriage and glue up a rail I made from extrusion flush with the surface instead of sending it out, or buying a copy, and milling a t-slot. The rail is dadoed 3/4 x 3/8 x 1/8 wall rectangular aluminum. This lets the compound be positioned for the various center punches faster.

I have until January before I lose my provisional patent rights, and if someone else applies before I do, the new law is they get it. There is no more true inventor dispute available. First filer is the rule now.

Doug

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...VROWG9VUVB6ZHc

The idea is go by the cube root of two in sizes so the volumes come out in even factor of two steps.

Works nice.

How do I press 0.007 thick 17-7 sheet into a mold to make a bowl? I guess Dixie can do it. Titanium, too ... later.

Doug

On Friday, September 28, 2012 2:33:28 PM UTC-4, DGoncz (that was me) wrote:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...VROWG9VUVB6ZHc



The idea is go by the cube root of two in sizes so the volumes come out in even factor of two steps.



Works nice.



How do I press 0.007 thick 17-7 sheet into a mold to make a bowl? I guess Dixie can do it. Titanium, too ... later.

The latest Peltier Pot is a set of 4 pint stainless pet bowls. Teri refuses to use them for the cats; they are too sterile. She has funky his'n'hers bowls for them.

4 each one pint bowls were pierced with a router and a carbide scriber bit at an approach angle of around 10 degrees from normal to keep from cracking the point. The innermost, uppermost bowl has 9 air holes near the rim, and 36 in the corner at the base. The second, 36 near the rim. The third, a 2+3/4 inch hole in the base, and likewise the fourth, inverted bowl has that hole. Paper clamps will hold them together; there's no room for the rivnuts the quart model used. The 2+3/4 inch hole is the Sierra stove standard. The pint bowl set gets a disc with a silicone oring edge that doesn't need to be glued in place to make a seal.

Sierra's fan is nicely finished, and draws little current, but it inefficient. I use computer tubeaxial fans. They offer a lot more air for a bit more current. I think a rotary impeller will be optimal for the small holes pierced in the new bowl set. Such orifices in thin sheet have a lot of loss and work best with significant pressure behind them.

I've looked at $45k laser piercing equipment and plasma piercing. The sales volume might justify it. None have sold yet but I"ve made some demos and a presentation. On vacation, a friend of Barb's told me about technoserve, tns.org. He and I discussed stamping bowl sets from old car doors and roofs.

There's a PhD thesis out of Colorado on this concept. Biolite is in production. A competitor is ramping up to produce pots with the Peliter (Seebeck) chip in the base. That way the soup is the heat sink. Neat.

The Peltier part is hard but the quart bowl set might fit a $75 TEG chip set I found.

I'll have the work electropolished to prevent local pollution and give someoone else a go at participation.

Pine cones ignite like a gas soaked rag in these bowl sets and nut shells make a fire you could smith with.

The quart bowl set with its permanently attached base is much larger than the pint set nested neatly to be assembled when needed with large silicone tubing orings and the base tucked into the others. The quart set used stainless strip spacers and screws.

See my Facebook for photos of these and the can stoves.

I would Friend any of yall back. That would be fun. I"m not sure, I think my Permissions forbid anybody just looking me up. I can reset those.

Doug Goncz
Replikon Research
Alexandria, VA 22314