On 10/01/2011 01:34 AM, Ignoramus4271 wrote:
On 2011-09-30, wrote:


On 2011-09-30, wrote:

I don't see a drier, chiller.

I have a pretty big Pneumatech 3/4 HP air drier, I think rated at 175
CFM. Single phase, not that it matters any more. It is waiting for its
turn in my backyard. It cost me $50.

i

If you are going to be spray painting things you refurbish you want dry
air going to your spray gun.

I do not plan on painting, personally. Dry air is good for sand
blasting, also.

It is also good for Plasma Cutters.

BobH

Quincy model 350, 1982 vintage.

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp...se/133-1-4.JPG

"Ignoramus4271" wrote in message
...
Quincy model 350, 1982 vintage.

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp...se/133-1-4.JPG


Okay... I have to ask... What's with the stainless steel exhaust flex pipe
and natural gas-type couplings going to the reservoir tank?
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022 x113
01.908.542.0244
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-HQ.com
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://www.facebook.com/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill


V8013-R

"Joe AutoDrill" fired this volley in
:

Okay... I have to ask... What's with the stainless steel exhaust
flex pipe and natural gas-type couplings going to the reservoir tank?


That's not exhaust pipe, it's high pressure flex hose, wire-reinforced.

One wants not to "hard couple" something that vibrates to hard piping.

That's the proper way to do it.

LLoyd

Okay... I have to ask... What's with the stainless steel exhaust
flex pipe and natural gas-type couplings going to the reservoir tank?


That's not exhaust pipe, it's high pressure flex hose, wire-reinforced.

One wants not to "hard couple" something that vibrates to hard piping.

That's the proper way to do it.

LLoyd

Understood. I guess even with my pneumatic drills, we don't use enough air
to justify such a large hose. We use up to 1/2" ID plastic tube for that
purpose with simple quick disconnects.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022 x113
01.908.542.0244
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-HQ.com
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://www.facebook.com/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill


V8013-R

On 2011-09-30, Joe AutoDrill wrote:
"Ignoramus4271" wrote in message
...
Quincy model 350, 1982 vintage.

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp...se/133-1-4.JPG


Okay... I have to ask... What's with the stainless steel exhaust flex pipe
and natural gas-type couplings going to the reservoir tank?

Huh???

Ignoramus4271 fired this volley in
:

Huh???


Read my response to that Ig. G

LLoyd

--
http://fija.org/
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
Ignoramus4271 fired this volley in
:

Huh???


Read my response to that Ig. G

LLoyd

I don't see a drier, chiller.

Best Regards
Tom.

Years ago, a mechanic I trust said that hard coupled tanks
tend to rupture. So, the flex is necessary for safety.

The tank needs a low point drain. Might have one; one that's
not obvious.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote
in message
. 3.70...
"Joe AutoDrill" fired this volley in
:

Okay... I have to ask... What's with the stainless steel
exhaust
flex pipe and natural gas-type couplings going to the
reservoir tank?


That's not exhaust pipe, it's high pressure flex hose,
wire-reinforced.

One wants not to "hard couple" something that vibrates to
hard piping.

That's the proper way to do it.

LLoyd

On 2011-09-30, azotic wrote:

I don't see a drier, chiller.

I have a pretty big Pneumatech 3/4 HP air drier, I think rated at 175
CFM. Single phase, not that it matters any more. It is waiting for its
turn in my backyard. It cost me $50.

i

On Fri, 30 Sep 2011 16:56:46 -0400, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

Okay... I have to ask... What's with the stainless steel exhaust
flex pipe and natural gas-type couplings going to the reservoir tank?


That's not exhaust pipe, it's high pressure flex hose, wire-reinforced.

One wants not to "hard couple" something that vibrates to hard piping.

That's the proper way to do it.

LLoyd

Understood. I guess even with my pneumatic drills, we don't use enough air
to justify such a large hose. We use up to 1/2" ID plastic tube for that
purpose with simple quick disconnects.

I found out the hard way you can't use a Cleco brass quick connect
directly on a 90 gun. Has to have a steel fitting with a direct
coupled hose for the first few feet, then the cleco. I was chipping
acid brick out of a 3' dia. carbon tet tower laying on its side. No
place to be when the air hose lets go. For that matter, no place to
be anyway. The things we used to do to re-use equipment in R&D.

Pete Keillor

--
http://fija.org/
"Ignoramus4271" wrote in message
...
On 2011-09-30, azotic wrote:

I don't see a drier, chiller.

I have a pretty big Pneumatech 3/4 HP air drier, I think rated at 175
CFM. Single phase, not that it matters any more. It is waiting for its
turn in my backyard. It cost me $50.

i

If you are going to be spray painting things you refurbish you want dry
air going to your spray gun.

Best Regards
Tom.
--
http://fija.org/

On 2011-09-30, azotic wrote:


On 2011-09-30, azotic wrote:

I don't see a drier, chiller.

I have a pretty big Pneumatech 3/4 HP air drier, I think rated at 175
CFM. Single phase, not that it matters any more. It is waiting for its
turn in my backyard. It cost me $50.

i

If you are going to be spray painting things you refurbish you want dry
air going to your spray gun.

I do not plan on painting, personally. Dry air is good for sand
blasting, also.

The above compressor is a 10 HP compressor, about 30 CFM.

i

azotic wrote:



If you are going to be spray painting things you refurbish you want dry
air going to your spray gun.

Best Regards
Tom.


That is an understatement. You want dry air for anything in the shop.
Air tools don't like water any more than paint guns.
I like to make sure I have different colored hose whips as well. I use
blue for dry air and red for air that passes through an oiler.
The blue lines are usually stored in a cabinet with the spray gear. That
way they don't collect crud that could cause problems while spraying.

--
Steve W.

On 2011-10-01, Steve W. wrote:
azotic wrote:
If you are going to be spray painting things you refurbish you want dry
air going to your spray gun.
That is an understatement. You want dry air for anything in the shop.
Air tools don't like water any more than paint guns.
I like to make sure I have different colored hose whips as well. I use
blue for dry air and red for air that passes through an oiler.
The blue lines are usually stored in a cabinet with the spray gear. That
way they don't collect crud that could cause problems while spraying.



By the way, this place is completely plumbed for compressed air. It
also has an awesome electrical distribution, 230/3phase available
everywhere, same for 125v, etc.

i

On Fri, 30 Sep 2011 20:39:48 -0500, Ignoramus4271
wrote:

On 2011-10-01, Steve W. wrote:
azotic wrote:
If you are going to be spray painting things you refurbish you want dry
air going to your spray gun.
That is an understatement. You want dry air for anything in the shop.
Air tools don't like water any more than paint guns.
I like to make sure I have different colored hose whips as well. I use
blue for dry air and red for air that passes through an oiler.
The blue lines are usually stored in a cabinet with the spray gear. That
way they don't collect crud that could cause problems while spraying.



By the way, this place is completely plumbed for compressed air. It
also has an awesome electrical distribution, 230/3phase available
everywhere, same for 125v, etc.

i

Pull all the quick disconnects, install plugs, fire up the compressor
and charge system to 150psi Minimum. Turn off compressor and see how
fast it bleeds off, then start looking for leaks.

A leaking air system will eat your ass with power bills.

Gunner

"In the history of mankind, there have always been men and women who's goal
in life is to take down nations. We have just elected such a man to run our
country." - David Lloyyd (2008)

On 2011-10-01, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 30 Sep 2011 20:39:48 -0500, Ignoramus4271
wrote:

On 2011-10-01, Steve W. wrote:
azotic wrote:
If you are going to be spray painting things you refurbish you want dry
air going to your spray gun.
That is an understatement. You want dry air for anything in the shop.
Air tools don't like water any more than paint guns.
I like to make sure I have different colored hose whips as well. I use
blue for dry air and red for air that passes through an oiler.
The blue lines are usually stored in a cabinet with the spray gear. That
way they don't collect crud that could cause problems while spraying.



By the way, this place is completely plumbed for compressed air. It
also has an awesome electrical distribution, 230/3phase available
everywhere, same for 125v, etc.

i

Pull all the quick disconnects, install plugs, fire up the compressor
and charge system to 150psi Minimum. Turn off compressor and see how
fast it bleeds off, then start looking for leaks.

A leaking air system will eat your ass with power bills.

First, I need to set up a magnetic starter for this compressor.

i

On Sat, 01 Oct 2011 22:39:26 -0500, Ignoramus30024
wrote:

On 2011-10-01, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 30 Sep 2011 20:39:48 -0500, Ignoramus4271
wrote:

On 2011-10-01, Steve W. wrote:
azotic wrote:
If you are going to be spray painting things you refurbish you want dry
air going to your spray gun.
That is an understatement. You want dry air for anything in the shop.
Air tools don't like water any more than paint guns.
I like to make sure I have different colored hose whips as well. I use
blue for dry air and red for air that passes through an oiler.
The blue lines are usually stored in a cabinet with the spray gear. That
way they don't collect crud that could cause problems while spraying.



By the way, this place is completely plumbed for compressed air. It
also has an awesome electrical distribution, 230/3phase available
everywhere, same for 125v, etc.

i

Pull all the quick disconnects, install plugs, fire up the compressor
and charge system to 150psi Minimum. Turn off compressor and see how
fast it bleeds off, then start looking for leaks.

A leaking air system will eat your ass with power bills.

First, I need to set up a magnetic starter for this compressor.

i

And it looks like there's the hardware on the front of the compressor
for changing it over to Continuous Run Unloader mode - which you want
to do whenever you plan on sandblasting, paint spraying, or anything
that uses mass quantities of air. You have to electrically bypass the
tank pressure switch with a toggle switch, and flip a lever valve on
the unloader to make it actuate.

The unloader pops open the valves on the compressor head when the
tank hits the shutoff pressure, and the electric motor keeps spinning
the compressor at idle and everything gets a chance to cool down.
Doesn't use nearly as much power when spinning unloaded, and you don't
get all the motor starting surges driving your Demand Meter (on a
commercial service) way up - that Demand Meter drives you cost per KWH
up for the month.

Read The Friendly Manual, Quincy should explain it. Switch it back
to Pressure Switch running for normal shop stuff where you aren't
using much air.

It's VERY Hard on the motor when the compressor is only a bit bigger
than the job (and 10-HP qualifies!) and you short-cycle it on
Start-Stop mode - start and run for 2 minutes and catch up, then stop
for two minutes, then start for two minutes, stop for two minutes...

A few hours of that and the "Magic Smoke" escapes from the motor.

Sometimes it's better when you only have a "5 Sears HP" compressor to
let it stay in "catch-up mode" as you sandblast - watch the pressure
gauges to stop blasting when the pressure drops and let it catch up,
then it runs continuously.

If you goof up and let it stop, go take a break - give the motor 10
minutes to cool off. If you've been going at it for an hour, you
probably need it too.

-- Bruce --

On 2011-10-02, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable) wrote:
And it looks like there's the hardware on the front of the compressor
for changing it over to Continuous Run Unloader mode - which you want
to do whenever you plan on sandblasting, paint spraying, or anything
that uses mass quantities of air. You have to electrically bypass the
tank pressure switch with a toggle switch, and flip a lever valve on
the unloader to make it actuate.

Yes, I rather liked that also.

I modified my home compressor for this, also.

i

Ignoramus19762 wrote:
On 2011-10-02, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable) wrote:
And it looks like there's the hardware on the front of the compressor
for changing it over to Continuous Run Unloader mode - which you want
to do whenever you plan on sandblasting, paint spraying, or anything
that uses mass quantities of air. You have to electrically bypass the
tank pressure switch with a toggle switch, and flip a lever valve on
the unloader to make it actuate.

Yes, I rather liked that also.

I modified my home compressor for this, also.

i

Ditto on my 390 in the garage I use to power my 80# pneumatic hammer.