I picked up a millermatic 250 welder with an AL spoolgun at an auction
a while back. I tried the spoolgun a couple days ago. It works but the
feeder is stuck on "HIGH" That is it feeds the AL wire at full speed
when welding and the speed knob has no effect. It welds great if you
can use wire that fast.

I first tested the spoolgun itself
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250spoolgun.pdf

The reostat is 10K ohm and the wiper goes from 0 to 10 K just fine. I
seen no obvious mechanical issues. (I was really hoping for a broken
pot, etc.) This was tested right at the plug to the welder.

I located the electrical prints for the welder
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250prints.pdf

The spoolgun connection is shown right at the bottom of the print.
Before I give up and send it to the welding supply for repairs, are
there any other simple possible troubles to look for?

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:
I picked up a millermatic 250 welder with an AL spoolgun at an auction
a while back. I tried the spoolgun a couple days ago. It works but the
feeder is stuck on "HIGH" That is it feeds the AL wire at full speed
when welding and the speed knob has no effect. It welds great if you
can use wire that fast.

I first tested the spoolgun itself
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250spoolgun.pdf

The reostat is 10K ohm and the wiper goes from 0 to 10 K just fine. I
seen no obvious mechanical issues. (I was really hoping for a broken
pot, etc.) This was tested right at the plug to the welder.

I located the electrical prints for the welder
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250prints.pdf

The spoolgun connection is shown right at the bottom of the print.
Before I give up and send it to the welding supply for repairs, are
there any other simple possible troubles to look for?

Karl


Didja try the gambits offered in the Owner's Manual
on page 16?
www.millerwelds.com/om/o1308n_mil.pdf

Low, high, or erratic wire speed.
Readjust front panel settings (see Section 3-1).
Place Low Range/Full Range switch in correct position (see Section 3-1).
Change to correct size drive rolls (see Section 4-5).
Readjust drive roll pressure (see Section 2-12).
Replace inlet guide, contact tip, and/or liner if necessary (see Sections 4-4, and 4-8).
Check position of input jumper links (see Section 2-9).
Have Factory Authorized Service Agent check main control board.

--Winston

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 11:50:52 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I picked up a millermatic 250 welder with an AL spoolgun at an auction
a while back. I tried the spoolgun a couple days ago. It works but the
feeder is stuck on "HIGH" That is it feeds the AL wire at full speed
when welding and the speed knob has no effect. It welds great if you
can use wire that fast.

I first tested the spoolgun itself
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250spoolgun.pdf

The reostat is 10K ohm and the wiper goes from 0 to 10 K just fine. I
seen no obvious mechanical issues. (I was really hoping for a broken
pot, etc.) This was tested right at the plug to the welder.

I located the electrical prints for the welder
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250prints.pdf

The spoolgun connection is shown right at the bottom of the print.
Before I give up and send it to the welding supply for repairs, are
there any other simple possible troubles to look for?

Karl

Maybe blown SCRs. See what they measure anode to cathode (and with
leads reversed) on a multimeter using the diode (ohms) range. With
power disconnected, obviously, or the meter will be smoked.

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 10:19:48 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
I picked up a millermatic 250 welder with an AL spoolgun at an auction
a while back. I tried the spoolgun a couple days ago. It works but the
feeder is stuck on "HIGH" That is it feeds the AL wire at full speed
when welding and the speed knob has no effect. It welds great if you
can use wire that fast.

I first tested the spoolgun itself
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250spoolgun.pdf

The reostat is 10K ohm and the wiper goes from 0 to 10 K just fine. I
seen no obvious mechanical issues. (I was really hoping for a broken
pot, etc.) This was tested right at the plug to the welder.

I located the electrical prints for the welder
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250prints.pdf

The spoolgun connection is shown right at the bottom of the print.
Before I give up and send it to the welding supply for repairs, are
there any other simple possible troubles to look for?

Karl


Didja try the gambits offered in the Owner's Manual
on page 16?
www.millerwelds.com/om/o1308n_mil.pdf

Low, high, or erratic wire speed.
Readjust front panel settings (see Section 3-1).
Place Low Range/Full Range switch in correct position (see Section 3-1).
Change to correct size drive rolls (see Section 4-5).
Readjust drive roll pressure (see Section 2-12).
Replace inlet guide, contact tip, and/or liner if necessary (see Sections 4-4, and 4-8).
Check position of input jumper links (see Section 2-9).
Have Factory Authorized Service Agent check main control board.

--Winston

Probably good to point out the basics. I hadn't double checked the
input jumper. Its OK

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 13:24:06 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 11:50:52 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I picked up a millermatic 250 welder with an AL spoolgun at an auction
a while back. I tried the spoolgun a couple days ago. It works but the
feeder is stuck on "HIGH" That is it feeds the AL wire at full speed
when welding and the speed knob has no effect. It welds great if you
can use wire that fast.

I first tested the spoolgun itself
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250spoolgun.pdf

The reostat is 10K ohm and the wiper goes from 0 to 10 K just fine. I
seen no obvious mechanical issues. (I was really hoping for a broken
pot, etc.) This was tested right at the plug to the welder.

I located the electrical prints for the welder
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250prints.pdf

The spoolgun connection is shown right at the bottom of the print.
Before I give up and send it to the welding supply for repairs, are
there any other simple possible troubles to look for?

Karl

Maybe blown SCRs. See what they measure anode to cathode (and with
leads reversed) on a multimeter using the diode (ohms) range. With
power disconnected, obviously, or the meter will be smoked.

You'll have to dumb this way down for me.

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 13:12:09 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 13:24:06 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 11:50:52 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I picked up a millermatic 250 welder with an AL spoolgun at an auction
a while back. I tried the spoolgun a couple days ago. It works but the
feeder is stuck on "HIGH" That is it feeds the AL wire at full speed
when welding and the speed knob has no effect. It welds great if you
can use wire that fast.

I first tested the spoolgun itself
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250spoolgun.pdf

The reostat is 10K ohm and the wiper goes from 0 to 10 K just fine. I
seen no obvious mechanical issues. (I was really hoping for a broken
pot, etc.) This was tested right at the plug to the welder.

I located the electrical prints for the welder
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250prints.pdf

The spoolgun connection is shown right at the bottom of the print.
Before I give up and send it to the welding supply for repairs, are
there any other simple possible troubles to look for?

Karl

Maybe blown SCRs. See what they measure anode to cathode (and with
leads reversed) on a multimeter using the diode (ohms) range. With
power disconnected, obviously, or the meter will be smoked.

You'll have to dumb this way down for me.

I also should point out the standard gun works fine. If I follow the
prints right it uses the same SCR??? to control wire feed speed.
Please know, I can hardly read a print.

Karl

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 13:12:09 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 13:24:06 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 11:50:52 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I picked up a millermatic 250 welder with an AL spoolgun at an auction
a while back. I tried the spoolgun a couple days ago. It works but the
feeder is stuck on "HIGH" That is it feeds the AL wire at full speed
when welding and the speed knob has no effect. It welds great if you
can use wire that fast.

I first tested the spoolgun itself
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250spoolgun.pdf

The reostat is 10K ohm and the wiper goes from 0 to 10 K just fine. I
seen no obvious mechanical issues. (I was really hoping for a broken
pot, etc.) This was tested right at the plug to the welder.

I located the electrical prints for the welder
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250prints.pdf

The spoolgun connection is shown right at the bottom of the print.
Before I give up and send it to the welding supply for repairs, are
there any other simple possible troubles to look for?

Karl

Maybe blown SCRs. See what they measure anode to cathode (and with
leads reversed) on a multimeter using the diode (ohms) range. With
power disconnected, obviously, or the meter will be smoked.

You'll have to dumb this way down for me.

Is there a part marked Q1 on the PCB that is connected to the motor
terminal (59) ? That should be a 10A SCR if I got the right
schematic.

Karl Townsend wrote:

(...)

Probably good to point out the basics. I hadn't double checked the
input jumper. Its OK

Suspect a broken wire or open connection between RC4-4
and the pot on the gun.

Advise photograph existing wiring, unplug and re-plug
connections. Please consider good quality contact
cleaner treatment of connectors, too.

--Winston

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 14:28:16 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 13:12:09 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 13:24:06 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 11:50:52 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I picked up a millermatic 250 welder with an AL spoolgun at an auction
a while back. I tried the spoolgun a couple days ago. It works but the
feeder is stuck on "HIGH" That is it feeds the AL wire at full speed
when welding and the speed knob has no effect. It welds great if you
can use wire that fast.

I first tested the spoolgun itself
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250spoolgun.pdf

The reostat is 10K ohm and the wiper goes from 0 to 10 K just fine. I
seen no obvious mechanical issues. (I was really hoping for a broken
pot, etc.) This was tested right at the plug to the welder.

I located the electrical prints for the welder
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250prints.pdf

The spoolgun connection is shown right at the bottom of the print.
Before I give up and send it to the welding supply for repairs, are
there any other simple possible troubles to look for?

Karl

Maybe blown SCRs. See what they measure anode to cathode (and with
leads reversed) on a multimeter using the diode (ohms) range. With
power disconnected, obviously, or the meter will be smoked.

You'll have to dumb this way down for me.

Is there a part marked Q1 on the PCB that is connected to the motor
terminal (59) ? That should be a 10A SCR if I got the right
schematic.



No sign of smoke by this device. The are four pins on Q1 so I did ohms
both ways (a diode gives different reading depending on which way)
accross each pin:

top pins gives 144 K ohm
bottom pins 137 K ohm
right side 0 ohm
left side 6.1 K ohm


You must have found a more complete schematic than I have. Where did
you find it?

Karl

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 11:49:55 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:

(...)

Probably good to point out the basics. I hadn't double checked the
input jumper. Its OK

Suspect a broken wire or open connection between RC4-4
and the pot on the gun.

Advise photograph existing wiring, unplug and re-plug
connections. Please consider good quality contact
cleaner treatment of connectors, too.

--Winston

Good suggestion. I'll get some contact cleaner and try this.

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 14:32:29 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 14:28:16 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 13:12:09 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 13:24:06 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 11:50:52 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I picked up a millermatic 250 welder with an AL spoolgun at an auction
a while back. I tried the spoolgun a couple days ago. It works but the
feeder is stuck on "HIGH" That is it feeds the AL wire at full speed
when welding and the speed knob has no effect. It welds great if you
can use wire that fast.

I first tested the spoolgun itself
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250spoolgun.pdf

The reostat is 10K ohm and the wiper goes from 0 to 10 K just fine. I
seen no obvious mechanical issues. (I was really hoping for a broken
pot, etc.) This was tested right at the plug to the welder.

I located the electrical prints for the welder
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250prints.pdf

The spoolgun connection is shown right at the bottom of the print.
Before I give up and send it to the welding supply for repairs, are
there any other simple possible troubles to look for?

Karl

Maybe blown SCRs. See what they measure anode to cathode (and with
leads reversed) on a multimeter using the diode (ohms) range. With
power disconnected, obviously, or the meter will be smoked.

You'll have to dumb this way down for me.

Is there a part marked Q1 on the PCB that is connected to the motor
terminal (59) ? That should be a 10A SCR if I got the right
schematic.



No sign of smoke by this device. The are four pins on Q1 so I did ohms
both ways (a diode gives different reading depending on which way)
accross each pin:

top pins gives 144 K ohm
bottom pins 137 K ohm
right side 0 ohm
left side 6.1 K ohm


You must have found a more complete schematic than I have. Where did
you find it?

Karl


I'm guessing it's similar to the Snap-on 250A welder:

http://www.800abcweld.com/pdf/mm250s...ice_manual.pdf

Karl Townsend wrote:
On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 11:49:55 -0700,
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:

(...)

Probably good to point out the basics. I hadn't double checked the
input jumper. Its OK

Suspect a broken wire or open connection between RC4-4
and the pot on the gun.

Advise photograph existing wiring, unplug and re-plug
connections. Please consider good quality contact
cleaner treatment of connectors, too.

--Winston

Good suggestion. I'll get some contact cleaner and try this.

LPS or better. Not Radio Shack brand!



--Winston

On 2011-08-04, Karl Townsend wrote:
I picked up a millermatic 250 welder with an AL spoolgun at an auction
a while back. I tried the spoolgun a couple days ago. It works but the
feeder is stuck on "HIGH" That is it feeds the AL wire at full speed
when welding and the speed knob has no effect. It welds great if you
can use wire that fast.

I first tested the spoolgun itself
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250spoolgun.pdf

The reostat is 10K ohm and the wiper goes from 0 to 10 K just fine. I
seen no obvious mechanical issues. (I was really hoping for a broken
pot, etc.) This was tested right at the plug to the welder.

As wired (based on the schematic you posted the URL for) this is
not a rheostat, but rather a potentiometer. (I expected that because
rheostats are seldom that high in resistance, but I had to check the
schematic to be sure.)

The difference between a pot and a rheostat is that a pot uses
all three terminals to divide a voltage to an variable output. A
rheostat is in effect only a two terminal device -- a variable resistor
used between two points (though sometimes the CCW end will be connected
to the wiper to minimize how high the resistance shoots when the wiper
makes poor contact.) And because a rheostat is usually (though not
always) running with more current, it will frequently be constructed as
a wirewound on ceramic instead of the carbon resistance track common
with pots.

So -- did you check all three pins? It should be 10K between
pins 50 and 51, and pin 30 should measure resistance to the two other
pins which add up to a total of 10K. I suspect that pin 51 is not
making connection, so you will get full speed all the time. They don't
say, but I expect that you should measure 10V DC (though it may be 5VDC
or some other value) between pins 50 and 51 at the pot. With the
voltmeter connected between pin 51 and the wiper of the pot (pin 30) you
should get a voltage which varies as you turn the pot from fully CCW to
fully CW.

I located the electrical prints for the welder
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250prints.pdf

The spoolgun connection is shown right at the bottom of the print.

The one marked IPM (which I presume is "Inches Per Minute")? I
wasn't sure at first whether you were talking about the drawing as it
popped up in the PDF reader or after rotating so the lettering on the
drawing was right side up.

Before I give up and send it to the welding supply for repairs, are
there any other simple possible troubles to look for?

Check the full connection of all three points of the pot to the
control.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2011-08-04, Karl wrote:

(...)

So -- did you check all three pins? It should be 10K between
pins 50 and 51, and pin 30 should measure resistance to the two other
pins which add up to a total of 10K. I suspect that pin 51 is not
making connection, so you will get full speed all the time. They don't
say, but I expect that you should measure 10V DC (though it may be 5VDC
or some other value) between pins 50 and 51 at the pot. With the
voltmeter connected between pin 51 and the wiper of the pot (pin 30) you
should get a voltage which varies as you turn the pot from fully CCW to
fully CW.

Apparently that circuit works fine.
Karl mentioned that the local controls work properly when the
spoolgun interface is not connected. That is, just using the
built-in wire feeder and IPM pot you cited.

We still both hypothesized the same thing. If there were a break in
Circuit 33, RC4-4, then the welder would be commanded to go to
full speed all the time when the spoolgun was connected.

I located the electrical prints for the welder
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/miller250prints.pdf

The spoolgun connection is shown right at the bottom of the print.

The one marked IPM (which I presume is "Inches Per Minute")? I
wasn't sure at first whether you were talking about the drawing as it
popped up in the PDF reader or after rotating so the lettering on the
drawing was right side up.

Before I give up and send it to the welding supply for repairs, are
there any other simple possible troubles to look for?

Check the full connection of all three points of the pot to the
control.

If there was a way to check those connections at the
welder control board, that would be very interesting
information indeed. Either way, it could not hurt to
disconnect the control board and wash down the connectors
with some good quality connector cleaner. LPS!

--Winston

Thanks DoN and Winston. I'll check all this out.

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:
Thanks DoN and Winston. I'll check all this out.

Please keep us posted, Karl.

--Winston

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 21:38:57 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
Thanks DoN and Winston. I'll check all this out.

Please keep us posted, Karl.

--Winston

VICTORY!!!

Well, sort of. The female amphenol plug is the loose connection. I ran
a drill bit in/out to remove swarf and dirt. Then sprayed BrakeKleen.
Put plug on real tight. It works. My solution for now will be to put a
bracket on the side of the welder to hold all the spoolgun cable. Then
never take the connection apart again.

Failing that, I'll hire somebody to re-solder on a new amphenol plug.

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:
On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 21:38:57 -0700,
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
Thanks DoN and Winston. I'll check all this out.

Please keep us posted, Karl.

--Winston

VICTORY!!!

YeeHaw!

--Winston

On 2011-08-05, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 21:38:57 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
Thanks DoN and Winston. I'll check all this out.

Please keep us posted, Karl.

--Winston

VICTORY!!!

Well, sort of. The female amphenol plug is the loose connection. I ran
a drill bit in/out to remove swarf and dirt. Then sprayed BrakeKleen.
Put plug on real tight. It works. My solution for now will be to put a
bracket on the side of the welder to hold all the spoolgun cable. Then
never take the connection apart again.

Great!

Failing that, I'll hire somebody to re-solder on a new amphenol plug.

Out of curiosity -- is the plug fitted with soldertail pins or
crimp pins?

And is the female connector on the panel or the spool gun?

It is a good idea to tie a plastic baggie around the connector
when it is not plugged into the panel.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 6 Aug 2011 00:55:32 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2011-08-05, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 21:38:57 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
Thanks DoN and Winston. I'll check all this out.

Please keep us posted, Karl.

--Winston

VICTORY!!!

Well, sort of. The female amphenol plug is the loose connection. I ran
a drill bit in/out to remove swarf and dirt. Then sprayed BrakeKleen.
Put plug on real tight. It works. My solution for now will be to put a
bracket on the side of the welder to hold all the spoolgun cable. Then
never take the connection apart again.

Great!

Failing that, I'll hire somebody to re-solder on a new amphenol plug.

Out of curiosity -- is the plug fitted with soldertail pins or
crimp pins?
Soldertail. I don't do this.


And is the female connector on the panel or the spool gun?

On the panel.


It is a good idea to tie a plastic baggie around the connector
when it is not plugged into the panel.

Good Luck,
DoN.

Karl Townsend wrote:

On 6 Aug 2011 00:55:32 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" ?
wrote:

?On 2011-08-05, Karl Townsend ? wrote:
?? On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 21:38:57 -0700, Winston ?
?? wrote:
??
???Karl Townsend wrote:
???? Thanks DoN and Winston. I'll check all this out.
???
???Please keep us posted, Karl.
???
???--Winston
??
?? VICTORY!!!
??
?? Well, sort of. The female amphenol plug is the loose connection. I ran
?? a drill bit in/out to remove swarf and dirt. Then sprayed BrakeKleen.
?? Put plug on real tight. It works. My solution for now will be to put a
?? bracket on the side of the welder to hold all the spoolgun cable. Then
?? never take the connection apart again.
?
? Great!
?
?? Failing that, I'll hire somebody to re-solder on a new amphenol plug.
?
? Out of curiosity -- is the plug fitted with soldertail pins or
?crimp pins?
Soldertail. I don't do this.


Can you post a photo? If it was on the cable I'd say stop by with it
on your next trip through my area.


--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.

On Sat, 06 Aug 2011 09:53:25 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Karl Townsend wrote:

On 6 Aug 2011 00:55:32 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" ?
wrote:

?On 2011-08-05, Karl Townsend ? wrote:
?? On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 21:38:57 -0700, Winston ?
?? wrote:
??
???Karl Townsend wrote:
???? Thanks DoN and Winston. I'll check all this out.
???
???Please keep us posted, Karl.
???
???--Winston
??
?? VICTORY!!!
??
?? Well, sort of. The female amphenol plug is the loose connection. I ran
?? a drill bit in/out to remove swarf and dirt. Then sprayed BrakeKleen.
?? Put plug on real tight. It works. My solution for now will be to put a
?? bracket on the side of the welder to hold all the spoolgun cable. Then
?? never take the connection apart again.
?
? Great!
?
?? Failing that, I'll hire somebody to re-solder on a new amphenol plug.
?
? Out of curiosity -- is the plug fitted with soldertail pins or
?crimp pins?
Soldertail. I don't do this.


Can you post a photo? If it was on the cable I'd say stop by with it
on your next trip through my area.

Its on the panel. If i have trouble I'll somebody solder pig tails on
an amphenol plugin for me. Then I can crimp connect it in.

On Sat, 06 Aug 2011 09:17:37 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Sat, 06 Aug 2011 09:53:25 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Karl Townsend wrote:

On 6 Aug 2011 00:55:32 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" ?
wrote:

?On 2011-08-05, Karl Townsend ? wrote:
?? On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 21:38:57 -0700, Winston ?
?? wrote:
??
???Karl Townsend wrote:
???? Thanks DoN and Winston. I'll check all this out.
???
???Please keep us posted, Karl.
???
???--Winston
??
?? VICTORY!!!
??
?? Well, sort of. The female amphenol plug is the loose connection. I ran
?? a drill bit in/out to remove swarf and dirt. Then sprayed BrakeKleen.
?? Put plug on real tight. It works. My solution for now will be to put a
?? bracket on the side of the welder to hold all the spoolgun cable. Then
?? never take the connection apart again.
?
? Great!
?
?? Failing that, I'll hire somebody to re-solder on a new amphenol plug.
?
? Out of curiosity -- is the plug fitted with soldertail pins or
?crimp pins?
Soldertail. I don't do this.


Can you post a photo? If it was on the cable I'd say stop by with it
on your next trip through my area.

Its on the panel. If i have trouble I'll somebody solder pig tails on
an amphenol plugin for me. Then I can crimp connect it in.

I'll do that for you, Karl.

On Sat, 06 Aug 2011 14:37:45 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sat, 06 Aug 2011 09:17:37 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Sat, 06 Aug 2011 09:53:25 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Karl Townsend wrote:

On 6 Aug 2011 00:55:32 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" ?
wrote:

?On 2011-08-05, Karl Townsend ? wrote:
?? On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 21:38:57 -0700, Winston ?
?? wrote:
??
???Karl Townsend wrote:
???? Thanks DoN and Winston. I'll check all this out.
???
???Please keep us posted, Karl.
???
???--Winston
??
?? VICTORY!!!
??
?? Well, sort of. The female amphenol plug is the loose connection. I ran
?? a drill bit in/out to remove swarf and dirt. Then sprayed BrakeKleen.
?? Put plug on real tight. It works. My solution for now will be to put a
?? bracket on the side of the welder to hold all the spoolgun cable. Then
?? never take the connection apart again.
?
? Great!
?
?? Failing that, I'll hire somebody to re-solder on a new amphenol plug.
?
? Out of curiosity -- is the plug fitted with soldertail pins or
?crimp pins?
Soldertail. I don't do this.


Can you post a photo? If it was on the cable I'd say stop by with it
on your next trip through my area.

Its on the panel. If i have trouble I'll somebody solder pig tails on
an amphenol plugin for me. Then I can crimp connect it in.

I'll do that for you, Karl.

I'll take you up on that. "The Kid" just called. He bought a spoolgun
weld controller for his welder. He asked to borrow the spoolgun for a
project. I'm going to tell him he has to buy me a new amphenol plugin
as part of the deal. Bet he shops eBay for it.

Karl

On Sat, 06 Aug 2011 17:49:51 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:



I'll do that for you, Karl.

I'll take you up on that. "The Kid" just called. He bought a spoolgun
weld controller for his welder. He asked to borrow the spoolgun for a
project. I'm going to tell him he has to buy me a new amphenol plugin
as part of the deal. Bet he shops eBay for it.

Karl

It'll cost you some garden ripe tomatoes, bud!

Don Foreman wrote:

On Sat, 06 Aug 2011 17:49:51 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:


I'll do that for you, Karl.

I'll take you up on that. "The Kid" just called. He bought a spoolgun
weld controller for his welder. He asked to borrow the spoolgun for a
project. I'm going to tell him he has to buy me a new amphenol plugin
as part of the deal. Bet he shops eBay for it.

Karl

It'll cost you some garden ripe tomatoes, bud!


You work too cheap. ;-)


--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.

Karl Townsend wrote:

"The Kid" just called. He bought a spoolgun
weld controller for his welder. He asked to borrow the spoolgun for a
project. I'm going to tell him he has to buy me a new amphenol plugin
as part of the deal. Bet he shops eBay for it.


What does it look like? I have a couple thousand connectors, and
might have some from my days of doing industrial electronics.


--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.

On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 12:16:58 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Karl Townsend wrote:

"The Kid" just called. He bought a spoolgun
weld controller for his welder. He asked to borrow the spoolgun for a
project. I'm going to tell him he has to buy me a new amphenol plugin
as part of the deal. Bet he shops eBay for it.


What does it look like? I have a couple thousand connectors, and
might have some from my days of doing industrial electronics.

Its a ten pin circular connector. Eight pins around the circumference
and two in the middle. The pins measure 0.1" the female circle is
0.78". (the ID of the male pin connector is 0.79".) There is a key
slot to get rotation right. I didn't measure but there are male
threads on the female part that allow a slip nut to tighten it
together.

I can't find this in mc master, Newark, or Mouser. Must not know what
to call it. Amphenol is my name - must not be right - no hits. Surely
one of these vendors carries it. If you don't have one, I'd appreciate
suggestions on how to find it.

Karl

On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 01:38:35 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sat, 06 Aug 2011 17:49:51 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:



I'll do that for you, Karl.

I'll take you up on that. "The Kid" just called. He bought a spoolgun
weld controller for his welder. He asked to borrow the spoolgun for a
project. I'm going to tell him he has to buy me a new amphenol plugin
as part of the deal. Bet he shops eBay for it.

Karl

It'll cost you some garden ripe tomatoes, bud!

You got a deal. Maybe I should toss in some fresh sweet corn. Have I
told you we've got gourmet corn raising down to a fine art? We plant
two varieties at a time eight times during the season. We selected
Ambrosia and Serendipity because they have the best flavor and ripen
about four days apart. This way, there's always a row at the peak of
perfect ripeness. Sweet corn is best eaten very fresh. Julie puts the
water on to boil before going out to harvest. We won't eat 1/2 day old
sweet corn.

Of course, that means you have to come out for another visit.

Karl

Cannon plugs and socks are round. Slide together and then
turn the nut that locks them together.

That might be it.

Martin

On 8/7/2011 10:13 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 12:16:58 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Karl Townsend wrote:

"The Kid" just called. He bought a spoolgun
weld controller for his welder. He asked to borrow the spoolgun for a
project. I'm going to tell him he has to buy me a new amphenol plugin
as part of the deal. Bet he shops eBay for it.


What does it look like? I have a couple thousand connectors, and
might have some from my days of doing industrial electronics.

Its a ten pin circular connector. Eight pins around the circumference
and two in the middle. The pins measure 0.1" the female circle is
0.78". (the ID of the male pin connector is 0.79".) There is a key
slot to get rotation right. I didn't measure but there are male
threads on the female part that allow a slip nut to tighten it
together.

I can't find this in mc master, Newark, or Mouser. Must not know what
to call it. Amphenol is my name - must not be right - no hits. Surely
one of these vendors carries it. If you don't have one, I'd appreciate
suggestions on how to find it.

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:
On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 12:16:58 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
"The Kid" just called. He bought a spoolgun
weld controller for his welder. He asked to borrow the spoolgun for a
project. I'm going to tell him he has to buy me a new amphenol plugin
as part of the deal. Bet he shops eBay for it.

What does it look like? I have a couple thousand connectors, and
might have some from my days of doing industrial electronics.

Its a ten pin circular connector. Eight pins around the circumference
and two in the middle. The pins measure 0.1" the female circle is
0.78". (the ID of the male pin connector is 0.79".) There is a key
slot to get rotation right. I didn't measure but there are male
threads on the female part that allow a slip nut to tighten it
together.

I can't find this in mc master, Newark, or Mouser. Must not know what
to call it. Amphenol is my name - must not be right - no hits. Surely
one of these vendors carries it. If you don't have one, I'd appreciate
suggestions on how to find it.

Karl



http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...3Wzma65g%3D%3D
Amphenol PN MS3106R18-1S Socket, PN MS3106R18-1P Plug

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/643/1394.pdf
--
Steve W.

On 2011-08-08, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 12:16:58 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Karl Townsend wrote:

[ ... connector ... ]

What does it look like? I have a couple thousand connectors, and
might have some from my days of doing industrial electronics.

Its a ten pin circular connector. Eight pins around the circumference
and two in the middle. The pins measure 0.1" the female circle is
0.78". (the ID of the male pin connector is 0.79".) There is a key
slot to get rotation right. I didn't measure but there are male
threads on the female part that allow a slip nut to tighten it
together.

You should not need to measure it. Look for the
MS310-some-long-number stamped into the metal of the body (or mounting
flange on the panel mount connector) (not the possible back caps with
cable clamps), for the connector size, and a final number (which should
also be molded into the plastic which holds the pins, which is probably
a "-18-1"


I can't find this in mc master, Newark, or Mouser. Must not know what
to call it. Amphenol is my name - must not be right - no hits. Surely
one of these vendors carries it. If you don't have one, I'd appreciate
suggestions on how to find it.

Start with looking for ones which start with MS310 (a next digit
defines the mounting type -- panel mount, cable mount, and even (I
think) ones without mounting corner holes for soldering or welding onto
a box.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 22:01:14 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 12:16:58 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
"The Kid" just called. He bought a spoolgun
weld controller for his welder. He asked to borrow the spoolgun for a
project. I'm going to tell him he has to buy me a new amphenol plugin
as part of the deal. Bet he shops eBay for it.

What does it look like? I have a couple thousand connectors, and
might have some from my days of doing industrial electronics.

Its a ten pin circular connector. Eight pins around the circumference
and two in the middle. The pins measure 0.1" the female circle is
0.78". (the ID of the male pin connector is 0.79".) There is a key
slot to get rotation right. I didn't measure but there are male
threads on the female part that allow a slip nut to tighten it
together.

I can't find this in mc master, Newark, or Mouser. Must not know what
to call it. Amphenol is my name - must not be right - no hits. Surely
one of these vendors carries it. If you don't have one, I'd appreciate
suggestions on how to find it.

Karl



http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...3Wzma65g%3D%3D
Amphenol PN MS3106R18-1S Socket, PN MS3106R18-1P Plug

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/643/1394.pdf

Thanks. Now why couldn't I find that?

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 22:01:14 -0400, "Steve
wrote:

(...)

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...3Wzma65g%3D%3D
Amphenol PN MS3106R18-1S Socket, PN MS3106R18-1P Plug

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/643/1394.pdf

Thanks. Now why couldn't I find that?


Do my eyes deceive me or is this connector missing three pins
and a mounting flange?

--Winston

Winston wrote:
Karl Townsend wrote:
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 22:01:14 -0400, "Steve
wrote:

(...)

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...3Wzma65g%3D%3D

Amphenol PN MS3106R18-1S Socket, PN MS3106R18-1P Plug

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/643/1394.pdf

Thanks. Now why couldn't I find that?


Do my eyes deceive me or is this connector missing three pins
and a mounting flange?

--Winston



The picture just shows a "representative" connector.
The chart has all of them listed.

I don't like that myself but I can see where taking a picture of each
one would take up a LOT of space.

--
Steve W.

Steve W. wrote:
Winston wrote:


(...)

Do my eyes deceive me or is this connector missing three pins
and a mounting flange?

--Winston



The picture just shows a "representative" connector.
The chart has all of them listed.

OIC.

Amphenol plugs give me a headache because of the 'user vicious'
documentation.

MS3106 decodes to a straight plug, yes?

Is the chassis plug at all similar to McMaster
MS3102R18-1S (McM P/N 8903T47) $19.45 ?
MIL Spec 5015 Pin-and-Socket Connector Female Receptacle, Ext Thrd, 10 Pole, 18-1 Pattern

Thanks.

--Winston

On Tue, 09 Aug 2011 07:21:54 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Steve W. wrote:
Winston wrote:


(...)

Do my eyes deceive me or is this connector missing three pins
and a mounting flange?

--Winston



The picture just shows a "representative" connector.
The chart has all of them listed.

OIC.

Amphenol plugs give me a headache because of the 'user vicious'
documentation.

MS3106 decodes to a straight plug, yes?

Is the chassis plug at all similar to McMaster
MS3102R18-1S (McM P/N 8903T47) $19.45 ?
MIL Spec 5015 Pin-and-Socket Connector Female Receptacle, Ext Thrd, 10 Pole, 18-1 Pattern

Thanks.

--Winston

By golly, you found it from my favorite vendor. Thanks

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:

(...)

By golly, you found it from my favorite vendor. Thanks

You're welcome, Karl.

--Winston