The Habitat I work with has a bunch of copper pipe that we pulled out of
the convent that we are converting to homes. The scrap price of plain
copper (no fittings, "clean") is much better that that with fittings &
we are looking for a good way to remove the fittings. "Good" means
fast, easy, cheap (I know, "pick 2").

I threw away a 5/8" bolt cutter, or that would have been the first thing
that I tried (it's mostly 1/2" pipe). But I might be able to borrow
one if that would be a good solution. Anybody used a bolt cutter on
copper pipe?

I have a Porta-Band saw, with a stand. Whadya' think of that? Might be
kinda' slow.

How about an ax & chopping block? Would it work & how fast would the ax
go too dull to work anymore?

I suppose a throat less shears would be great, but even Harbor Freight's
$140 is too much.

I'm assuming that an abrasive saw would clog up on copper. Yes?

What about a circular saw? Would it REALLY need a special blade if I
didn't care about the quality of the cut?

I know that in the collective experience here there is the answer,
Bob

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
The Habitat I work with has a bunch of copper pipe that we pulled out of
the convent that we are converting to homes. The scrap price of plain
copper (no fittings, "clean") is much better that that with fittings & we
are looking for a good way to remove the fittings. "Good" means fast,
easy, cheap (I know, "pick 2").

I threw away a 5/8" bolt cutter, or that would have been the first thing
that I tried (it's mostly 1/2" pipe). But I might be able to borrow one
if that would be a good solution. Anybody used a bolt cutter on copper
pipe?

I have a Porta-Band saw, with a stand. Whadya' think of that? Might be
kinda' slow.

How about an ax & chopping block? Would it work & how fast would the ax
go too dull to work anymore?

I suppose a throat less shears would be great, but even Harbor Freight's
$140 is too much.

I'm assuming that an abrasive saw would clog up on copper. Yes?

What about a circular saw? Would it REALLY need a special blade if I
didn't care about the quality of the cut?

I know that in the collective experience here there is the answer,
Bob


I'd go with the axe. Fastest method and having an angle grinder nearby will
keep the edge on the axe ;)
Alternatively build a simple lever action shear/guillotine.

JB

have you got a sawsall? With a metal cutting blade, it would go right
thru it.

The idea of a circular saw only occurred to me as I was posting. I just
tried it and it works great. Fast, easy, cheap - all 3!

For the Habitat work, I'm going to use a table saw so 1 person can do it
without clamping or vising the pipe. And an old, fine pitch, carbide
tooth blade.

Bob

A cable cutter intended for cutting large gage copper and/or aluminum cables
would shear the tubing.

Such a cutter could be set up as a shear clamped/strapped on a base, with an
improvised handle to facilitate using the cutter as a shear.. just make sure
no one sticks a piece of steel in the cutter.

A large tinsnip/sheetmetal cutter could also be set up as a shear, in the
same way.. one handle attached to a base, and a handle to make it easier for
the user.
Dressing up the cutting edges on a big old set of tinsnips, and a few drops
of oil could repurpose an old tool that's just been laying around unused.

The axe/hatchet method would probably work well in the right hands, but not
by a new trainee.
I'd think a chunk of aluminum (old engine head/casting for example)
supported by a somewhat massive solid base (tree stump/anvil base-type
support) would would make one-swing cutting possible.

There are carbide-tipped metal cutting blades made especially for cutting
metals.. Panasonic brand blades are claimed to cut rebar and electrical
conduit fairly effortlessly.. but copper is a bit gummy compared to steel,
and may result in kickback or blade problems such as the copper sticking to
the blade without a wax cutting lubricant.

--
WB
..........


"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
The Habitat I work with has a bunch of copper pipe that we pulled out of
the convent that we are converting to homes. The scrap price of plain
copper (no fittings, "clean") is much better that that with fittings & we
are looking for a good way to remove the fittings. "Good" means fast,
easy, cheap (I know, "pick 2").

I threw away a 5/8" bolt cutter, or that would have been the first thing
that I tried (it's mostly 1/2" pipe). But I might be able to borrow one
if that would be a good solution. Anybody used a bolt cutter on copper
pipe?

I have a Porta-Band saw, with a stand. Whadya' think of that? Might be
kinda' slow.

How about an ax & chopping block? Would it work & how fast would the ax
go too dull to work anymore?

I suppose a throat less shears would be great, but even Harbor Freight's
$140 is too much.

I'm assuming that an abrasive saw would clog up on copper. Yes?

What about a circular saw? Would it REALLY need a special blade if I
didn't care about the quality of the cut?

I know that in the collective experience here there is the answer,
Bob

Karl Townsend wrote:
have you got a sawsall? With a metal cutting blade, it would go right
thru it.

It would. It's disadvantage is that you either have to vise it, or have
another person hold it while cutting. 'Though you could make a simple
holder for the saw, so that it was stationary, and you could feed the
pipe into it. That would work.

Bob

Wild_Bill wrote:
A cable cutter intended for cutting large gage copper and/or aluminum
cables would shear the tubing.

Such a cutter could be set up as a shear clamped/strapped on a base,
with an improvised handle to facilitate using the cutter as a shear..
just make sure no one sticks a piece of steel in the cutter.

A large tinsnip/sheetmetal cutter could also be set up as a shear, in
the same way.. one handle attached to a base, and a handle to make it
easier for the user.
Dressing up the cutting edges on a big old set of tinsnips, and a few
drops of oil could repurpose an old tool that's just been laying around
unused.

I momentarily considered making shear with OCS (old Chevy spring), that
would be clamped. It would give me the satisfaction of making a tool,
which is my main pleasure in the shop.

The axe/hatchet method would probably work well in the right hands, but
not by a new trainee.
I'd think a chunk of aluminum (old engine head/casting for example)
supported by a somewhat massive solid base (tree stump/anvil base-type
support) would would make one-swing cutting possible.

I was never very enthusiastic about that idea.

There are carbide-tipped metal cutting blades made especially for
cutting metals.. Panasonic brand blades are claimed to cut rebar and
electrical conduit fairly effortlessly.. but copper is a bit gummy
compared to steel, and may result in kickback or blade problems such as
the copper sticking to the blade without a wax cutting lubricant.

That is what I will be doing - just a plain old carbide blade, with a
wax lube. I tried it on my table saw & it works a treat.

Thanks,
Bob

Acetylene or Mapp torch. Loosen the fittings off with heat.
Use gloves and a heavy cotton towel to wipe off the solder.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in
message ...
The Habitat I work with has a bunch of copper pipe that we
pulled out of
the convent that we are converting to homes. The scrap
price of plain
copper (no fittings, "clean") is much better that that with
fittings &
we are looking for a good way to remove the fittings.
"Good" means
fast, easy, cheap (I know, "pick 2").

I threw away a 5/8" bolt cutter, or that would have been the
first thing
that I tried (it's mostly 1/2" pipe). But I might be able
to borrow
one if that would be a good solution. Anybody used a bolt
cutter on
copper pipe?

I have a Porta-Band saw, with a stand. Whadya' think of
that? Might be
kinda' slow.

How about an ax & chopping block? Would it work & how fast
would the ax
go too dull to work anymore?

I suppose a throat less shears would be great, but even
Harbor Freight's
$140 is too much.

I'm assuming that an abrasive saw would clog up on copper.
Yes?

What about a circular saw? Would it REALLY need a special
blade if I
didn't care about the quality of the cut?

I know that in the collective experience here there is the
answer,
Bob

Problem is, you lose tubing with the fittings. Have you
tried Mapp or acetylene?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in
message ...
The idea of a circular saw only occurred to me as I was
posting. I just
tried it and it works great. Fast, easy, cheap - all 3!

For the Habitat work, I'm going to use a table saw so 1
person can do it
without clamping or vising the pipe. And an old, fine
pitch, carbide
tooth blade.

Bob

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Problem is, you lose tubing with the fittings. Have you
tried Mapp or acetylene?


It would be too slow - there are hundreds of cuts to make. Also, I'm
not sure that having the solder on the end would make them "unclean".

Bob

On Wed, 09 Mar 2011 13:37:44 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
have you got a sawsall? With a metal cutting blade, it would go right
thru it.

It would. It's disadvantage is that you either have to vise it, or have
another person hold it while cutting. 'Though you could make a simple
holder for the saw, so that it was stationary, and you could feed the
pipe into it. That would work.

Bob

Get some wood blocks. Lay pipe on blocks. Put left foot on pipe. Saw.
Do bunches at once.

Karl Townsend wrote:
On Wed, 09 Mar 2011 13:37:44 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
have you got a sawsall? With a metal cutting blade, it would go
right thru it.

It would. It's disadvantage is that you either have to vise it, or
have another person hold it while cutting. 'Though you could make a
simple holder for the saw, so that it was stationary, and you could
feed the pipe into it. That would work.

Bob

Get some wood blocks. Lay pipe on blocks. Put left foot on pipe. Saw.
Do bunches at once.

Your Portaband will zip thru that like grease thru a goose . Use a fine
blade or you'll be stripping teeth .

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

Karl Townsend wrote:
On Wed, 09 Mar 2011 13:37:44 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
have you got a sawsall? With a metal cutting blade, it would go
right thru it.

It would. It's disadvantage is that you either have to vise it, or
have another person hold it while cutting. 'Though you could make a
simple holder for the saw, so that it was stationary, and you could
feed the pipe into it. That would work.

Bob

Get some wood blocks. Lay pipe on blocks. Put left foot on pipe. Saw.
Do bunches at once.

Meant to add tape the trigger down . My homemade stand has a bolt protruding
that I can mount a strip of metal on to hold it depressed .

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

In article , Bob Engelhardt wrote:
The Habitat I work with has a bunch of copper pipe that we pulled out of
the convent that we are converting to homes. The scrap price of plain
copper (no fittings, "clean") is much better that that with fittings &
we are looking for a good way to remove the fittings. "Good" means
fast, easy, cheap (I know, "pick 2").

Hard to beat a tubing cutter for that job.

On Mar 9, 10:47*am, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
The Habitat I work with has a bunch of copper pipe that we pulled out of
the convent that we are converting to homes. *The scrap price of plain
copper (no fittings, "clean") is much better that that with fittings &
we are looking for a good way to remove the fittings. *"Good" means
fast, easy, cheap (I know, "pick 2").

I threw away a 5/8" bolt cutter, or that would have been the first thing
* that I tried (it's mostly 1/2" pipe). *But I might be able to borrow
one if that would be a good solution. *Anybody used a bolt cutter on
copper pipe?

I have a Porta-Band saw, with a stand. *Whadya' think of that? *Might be
kinda' slow.

How about an ax & chopping block? *Would it work & how fast would the ax
go too dull to work anymore?

I suppose a throat less shears would be great, but even Harbor Freight's
$140 is too much.

I'm assuming that an abrasive saw would clog up on copper. *Yes?

What about a circular saw? *Would it REALLY need a special blade if I
didn't care about the quality of the cut?

I know that in the collective experience here there is the answer,
Bob

I'd bet that large cable cutters would work (like the 32" Klein one):
http://www.cable-lashers.com/id80.html
Finding an inexpensive version might be a problem.

On Mar 10, 6:56*am, "Denis G." wrote:
On Mar 9, 10:47*am, Bob Engelhardt wrote:









The Habitat I work with has a bunch of copper pipe that we pulled out of
the convent that we are converting to homes. *The scrap price of plain
copper (no fittings, "clean") is much better that that with fittings &
we are looking for a good way to remove the fittings. *"Good" means
fast, easy, cheap (I know, "pick 2").

I threw away a 5/8" bolt cutter, or that would have been the first thing
* that I tried (it's mostly 1/2" pipe). *But I might be able to borrow
one if that would be a good solution. *Anybody used a bolt cutter on
copper pipe?

I have a Porta-Band saw, with a stand. *Whadya' think of that? *Might be
kinda' slow.

How about an ax & chopping block? *Would it work & how fast would the ax
go too dull to work anymore?

I suppose a throat less shears would be great, but even Harbor Freight's
$140 is too much.

I'm assuming that an abrasive saw would clog up on copper. *Yes?

What about a circular saw? *Would it REALLY need a special blade if I
didn't care about the quality of the cut?

I know that in the collective experience here there is the answer,
Bob

I'd bet that large cable cutters would work (like the 32" Klein one):http://www.cable-lashers.com/id80.html
Finding an inexpensive version might be a problem.

I should have checked he
http://www.harborfreight.com/28-inch...ters-6649.html

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
The Habitat I work with has a bunch of copper pipe that we pulled out of
the convent that we are converting to homes. The scrap price of plain
copper (no fittings, "clean") is much better that that with fittings & we
are looking for a good way to remove the fittings. "Good" means fast,
easy, cheap (I know, "pick 2").

I threw away a 5/8" bolt cutter, or that would have been the first thing
that I tried (it's mostly 1/2" pipe). But I might be able to borrow one
if that would be a good solution. Anybody used a bolt cutter on copper
pipe?

I have a Porta-Band saw, with a stand. Whadya' think of that? Might be
kinda' slow.

How about an ax & chopping block? Would it work & how fast would the ax
go too dull to work anymore?

I suppose a throat less shears would be great, but even Harbor Freight's
$140 is too much.

I'm assuming that an abrasive saw would clog up on copper. Yes?

What about a circular saw? Would it REALLY need a special blade if I
didn't care about the quality of the cut?

I know that in the collective experience here there is the answer,
Bob





A lot of you USA guys seem to have log splitters. Maybe with an anvil block
fitted the log spltter might do the job.

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
The Habitat I work with has a bunch of copper pipe that we pulled out
of the convent that we are converting to homes. The scrap price of
plain copper (no fittings, "clean") is much better that that with
fittings & we are looking for a good way to remove the fittings.
"Good" means fast, easy, cheap (I know, "pick 2").

I threw away a 5/8" bolt cutter, or that would have been the first
thing that I tried (it's mostly 1/2" pipe). But I might be able to
borrow one if that would be a good solution. Anybody used a bolt
cutter on copper pipe?

I have a Porta-Band saw, with a stand. Whadya' think of that? Might
be kinda' slow.

How about an ax & chopping block? Would it work & how fast would the
ax go too dull to work anymore?

I suppose a throat less shears would be great, but even Harbor
Freight's $140 is too much.

I'm assuming that an abrasive saw would clog up on copper. Yes?

What about a circular saw? Would it REALLY need a special blade if I
didn't care about the quality of the cut?

I know that in the collective experience here there is the answer,
Bob




I'd have thought this type of shear would be a good candidate
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...0-metal-shears .
I looked for similar on Harbour Freight site but didn't find any which
surprised me a bit. One of the local scrap metal merchants around here
had a much larger hydraulic version that he used to remove such fittings
to increase the value of the scrap.

Use a dry rag to wipe off the solder. But, then, you've
decided not to use the heat and dissembly route.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in
message ...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Problem is, you lose tubing with the fittings. Have you
tried Mapp or acetylene?


It would be too slow - there are hundreds of cuts to make.
Also, I'm
not sure that having the solder on the end would make them
"unclean".

Bob

On 3/11/2011 2:42 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Use a dry rag to wipe off the solder. But, then, you've
decided not to use the heat and dissembly route.


what I don't understand, if you are selling for scrap, there is no
advantage to removing fittings unless they are brass -

--
www.wbnoble.com

Bob might know the answer to that. I don't know why
differnce. Some fittings, like faucets, have some steel.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bill Noble" wrote in message
...
On 3/11/2011 2:42 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Use a dry rag to wipe off the solder. But, then, you've
decided not to use the heat and dissembly route.


what I don't understand, if you are selling for scrap, there
is no
advantage to removing fittings unless they are brass -

--
www.wbnoble.com

Bill Noble wrote:
what I don't understand, if you are selling for scrap, there is no
advantage to removing fittings unless they are brass -

Right, most are brass. But even if the fitting is copper, the solder in
the joint makes it No. 2 scrap. No. 1 (solder free, "clean") brings a
better price.

Bob

Bill Noble fired this volley in news:ileb2p$tlv$1
@news.eternal-september.org:

what I don't understand, if you are selling for scrap, there is no
advantage to removing fittings unless they are brass -

--

You must not have read the OP. "Clean" copper (in his parlance) means "no
fittings". It brings a higher price at the scrap yard.

LLoyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Bill Noble fired this volley in news:ileb2p$tlv$1

what I don't understand, if you are selling for scrap, there is no
advantage to removing fittings unless they are brass -

You must not have read the OP. "Clean" copper (in his parlance) means "no
fittings". It brings a higher price at the scrap yard.

Why doesn't he find a propane torch and just unsolder them? (I'd be afraid
to try OA on soldered copper.)

Thanks,
Rich

Rich Grise fired this volley in
:

Why doesn't he find a propane torch and just unsolder them? (I'd be
afraid to try OA on soldered copper.)

Because "clean" also means "no solder".

"Clean" means copper. No solder. No brass. No steel. No CPVC --
Copper.

I'm wondering why this is hard to comprehend. He stated it clearly in the
OP.

LLoyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Rich Grise fired this volley in

Why doesn't he find a propane torch and just unsolder them? (I'd be
afraid to try OA on soldered copper.)

Because "clean" also means "no solder".

"Clean" means copper. No solder. No brass. No steel. No CPVC --
Copper.

I'm wondering why this is hard to comprehend. He stated it clearly in the
OP.

Well, for me, it was because I didn't realize they had to be solder-free; I
ass-u-me-d that it was about just hacking off the fittings.

Sorry for the misunderstanding.

Thanks,
Rich

Rich Grise wrote:
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Rich Grise fired this volley in

Why doesn't he find a propane torch and just unsolder them? (I'd be
afraid to try OA on soldered copper.)

Because "clean" also means "no solder".

"Clean" means copper. No solder. No brass. No steel. No CPVC --
Copper.

I'm wondering why this is hard to comprehend. He stated it clearly in
the OP.

Well, for me, it was because I didn't realize they had to be solder-free;
I ass-u-me-d that it was about just hacking off the fittings.

Just had another thought - wouldn't they have more value if they were sold
as tube/pipe than bulk scrap?

Thanks,
Rich

Rich Grise fired this volley in
:

Just had another thought - wouldn't they have more value if they were
sold as tube/pipe than bulk scrap?

Sure, if you could get someone to certify them for alloy, working pressure,
freedom from cracks and defects and....

Oh... that would cost more than buying new pipe!

Never mind.

LLoyd

Rich Grise wrote:
Just had another thought - wouldn't they have more value if they were sold
as tube/pipe than bulk scrap?

Yes and no. IOW, maybe. Depends. G

The supply pipes (1/2 & 3/4) have to pretty new before there would be
much of a market. What with mineral build up, whatever, over the years.
And if you priced it at 25% of the new price, it's not much. And
$4/lb scrap is pretty good.

The heavy drain pipes, on the other hand, are SO much more expensive new
that there might be a market. In other words, the crud build-up might
be acceptable for the savings involved. For instance, 2" drain pipe is
about $150 for 10' length.

Bob

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Rich Grise wrote:
Just had another thought - wouldn't they have more value if they were
sold as tube/pipe than bulk scrap?

Yes and no. IOW, maybe. Depends. G

Of course. :-D

The supply pipes (1/2 & 3/4) have to pretty new before there would be
much of a market. What with mineral build up, whatever, over the years.
And if you priced it at 25% of the new price, it's not much. And
$4/lb scrap is pretty good.

The heavy drain pipes, on the other hand, are SO much more expensive new
that there might be a market. In other words, the crud build-up might
be acceptable for the savings involved. For instance, 2" drain pipe is
about $150 for 10' length.

Now I'm wondering, would "the mineral buildup [and] whatever" make it class
2 scrap like extraneous solder would?

Thanks,
Rich

Rich Grise wrote:
Now I'm wondering, would "the mineral buildup [and] whatever" make it class
2 scrap like extraneous solder would?

I'd say (guess) that it would depend upon whether those minerals are
incorporated into the melted metal or float on it (dross).

Bob