Got a tuff little job for tomorrow morning...

I'm making a new end of an air cylinder. Start with a 3.5 by 3.5 block
1.5" thick. Center and turn in the lathe so you now have a 2.5" round
protruding 0.25".

Now for the tuff part, turn a groove 0.062" wide on the face right at
the 2.5" round. (This holds rubber ring seal). I've turned a groove on
a face in the lathe before, but never with the protrusion in the way.

I started grinding a little tit on the end of a cutoff HSS tool. I can
see this effort will break right off. I'm thinking to try mangling a
two flute endmill in the morning.

Maybe somebody has a better idea.

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:
Got a tuff little job for tomorrow morning...

I'm making a new end of an air cylinder. Start with a 3.5 by 3.5 block
1.5" thick. Center and turn in the lathe so you now have a 2.5" round
protruding 0.25".

Now for the tuff part, turn a groove 0.062" wide on the face right at
the 2.5" round. (This holds rubber ring seal). I've turned a groove on
a face in the lathe before, but never with the protrusion in the way.

I started grinding a little tit on the end of a cutoff HSS tool. I can
see this effort will break right off. I'm thinking to try mangling a
two flute endmill in the morning.

Maybe somebody has a better idea.

Karl

The groove is right at the base of the cylindrical part ? Can you put the
block on a rotary table , mill the round , change to the appropriate end
mill to cut the groove ?

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

On Sun, 6 Mar 2011 20:12:43 -0600, "Snag"
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
Got a tuff little job for tomorrow morning...

I'm making a new end of an air cylinder. Start with a 3.5 by 3.5 block
1.5" thick. Center and turn in the lathe so you now have a 2.5" round
protruding 0.25".

Now for the tuff part, turn a groove 0.062" wide on the face right at
the 2.5" round. (This holds rubber ring seal). I've turned a groove on
a face in the lathe before, but never with the protrusion in the way.

I started grinding a little tit on the end of a cutoff HSS tool. I can
see this effort will break right off. I'm thinking to try mangling a
two flute endmill in the morning.

Maybe somebody has a better idea.

Karl

The groove is right at the base of the cylindrical part ? Can you put the
block on a rotary table , mill the round , change to the appropriate end
mill to cut the groove ?

That's a thought. I'd like to try in the lathe first though, cause it
will hold tight tolerance.

Right now, I'm a dreamin' up some way to hold a 1/16 endmill. Put one
in backward ground into a "D". It would stick out 5 diameters if I
hold it in a collet. May just snap right off.

Karl

On Sun, 06 Mar 2011 19:45:40 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:

Got a tuff little job for tomorrow morning...

I'm making a new end of an air cylinder. Start with a 3.5 by 3.5 block
1.5" thick. Center and turn in the lathe so you now have a 2.5" round
protruding 0.25".

Now for the tuff part, turn a groove 0.062" wide on the face right at
the 2.5" round. (This holds rubber ring seal). I've turned a groove on
a face in the lathe before, but never with the protrusion in the way.

I started grinding a little tit on the end of a cutoff HSS tool. I can
see this effort will break right off. I'm thinking to try mangling a
two flute endmill in the morning.

Maybe somebody has a better idea.

Karl

The trick here is to grind a tool that looks like a curved parting
tool, with radius of 1.25" on the wide part. The curvature is so the
supporting material under the cutting edge stays within the groove
that the cutting edge makes. The projection would be about .060" thick
(groove width minus a skosh), projecting length need only be slightly
more than the required groove depth. I'd grind it out of a square HSS
tool bit.

On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 00:44:12 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sun, 06 Mar 2011 19:45:40 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:

Got a tuff little job for tomorrow morning...

I'm making a new end of an air cylinder. Start with a 3.5 by 3.5 block
1.5" thick. Center and turn in the lathe so you now have a 2.5" round
protruding 0.25".

Now for the tuff part, turn a groove 0.062" wide on the face right at
the 2.5" round. (This holds rubber ring seal). I've turned a groove on
a face in the lathe before, but never with the protrusion in the way.

I started grinding a little tit on the end of a cutoff HSS tool. I can
see this effort will break right off. I'm thinking to try mangling a
two flute endmill in the morning.

Maybe somebody has a better idea.

Karl

The trick here is to grind a tool that looks like a curved parting
tool, with radius of 1.25" on the wide part. The curvature is so the
supporting material under the cutting edge stays within the groove
that the cutting edge makes. The projection would be about .060" thick
(groove width minus a skosh), projecting length need only be slightly
more than the required groove depth. I'd grind it out of a square HSS
tool bit.

That's beyond my ability to freehand grind. But, you gave me an idea.
I could CNC machine the perfect cutter out of the soft end of a drill
1/2" bit. Then harden.

OK, I don't remember best procedure to harden drill rod into a cutter.
Anybody?

Karl

On Sun, 06 Mar 2011 19:45:40 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:

Got a tuff little job for tomorrow morning...

I'm making a new end of an air cylinder. Start with a 3.5 by 3.5 block
1.5" thick. Center and turn in the lathe so you now have a 2.5" round
protruding 0.25".

Now for the tuff part, turn a groove 0.062" wide on the face right at
the 2.5" round. (This holds rubber ring seal). I've turned a groove on
a face in the lathe before, but never with the protrusion in the way.

I started grinding a little tit on the end of a cutoff HSS tool. I can
see this effort will break right off. I'm thinking to try mangling a
two flute endmill in the morning.

Maybe somebody has a better idea.

Karl


If I understand correctly you are cutting an o-ring groove on the face
of the block adjacent to the 2.5" round portion you just turned? What
is difficult". Just grind a tool bit to do it. I'd probably start out
by grinding the end of a new HSS tool bit at about 45 degrees to get
clearance for the cylindrical portion. then grind a protruding cutting
point the size and shape of your o-ring groove. You now have a tool
bit positioned at 45 degrees to the centerline of the lathe with a
cutting portion parallel to the centerline and ground to cut the
correct size and shape groove. Then do it :-)

Karl Townsend wrote:
...
I started grinding a little tit on the end of a cutoff HSS tool. I can
see this effort will break right off. ...

I dunno ... maybe. Having it in your hand makes you the better judge.
But, it's worth a shot. Being smaller also means less force on it. Try it.

Bob

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
Got a tuff little job for tomorrow morning...

I'm making a new end of an air cylinder. Start with a 3.5 by 3.5 block
1.5" thick. Center and turn in the lathe so you now have a 2.5" round
protruding 0.25".

Now for the tuff part, turn a groove 0.062" wide on the face right at
the 2.5" round. (This holds rubber ring seal). I've turned a groove on
a face in the lathe before, but never with the protrusion in the way.

I started grinding a little tit on the end of a cutoff HSS tool. I can
see this effort will break right off. I'm thinking to try mangling a
two flute endmill in the morning.

Maybe somebody has a better idea.

Karl


You want a trepanning bit. Plenty of "how to grind" on Google. I've made a bunch
over the years, no biggy.

Karl Townsend wrote:
On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 00:44:12 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sun, 06 Mar 2011 19:45:40 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:

Got a tuff little job for tomorrow morning...

I'm making a new end of an air cylinder. Start with a 3.5 by 3.5 block
1.5" thick. Center and turn in the lathe so you now have a 2.5" round
protruding 0.25".

Now for the tuff part, turn a groove 0.062" wide on the face right at
the 2.5" round. (This holds rubber ring seal). I've turned a groove on
a face in the lathe before, but never with the protrusion in the way.

I started grinding a little tit on the end of a cutoff HSS tool. I can
see this effort will break right off. I'm thinking to try mangling a
two flute endmill in the morning.

Maybe somebody has a better idea.

Karl

The trick here is to grind a tool that looks like a curved parting
tool, with radius of 1.25" on the wide part. The curvature is so the
supporting material under the cutting edge stays within the groove
that the cutting edge makes. The projection would be about .060" thick
(groove width minus a skosh), projecting length need only be slightly
more than the required groove depth. I'd grind it out of a square HSS
tool bit.

That's beyond my ability to freehand grind. But, you gave me an idea.
I could CNC machine the perfect cutter out of the soft end of a drill
1/2" bit. Then harden.

OK, I don't remember best procedure to harden drill rod into a cutter.
Anybody?

Karl


This cutter shape is not hard to grind.

http://userweb.intergrafix.net/amdinc/tooling+.jpg

John

On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 05:23:34 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 00:44:12 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sun, 06 Mar 2011 19:45:40 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:

Got a tuff little job for tomorrow morning...

I'm making a new end of an air cylinder. Start with a 3.5 by 3.5 block
1.5" thick. Center and turn in the lathe so you now have a 2.5" round
protruding 0.25".

Now for the tuff part, turn a groove 0.062" wide on the face right at
the 2.5" round. (This holds rubber ring seal). I've turned a groove on
a face in the lathe before, but never with the protrusion in the way.

I started grinding a little tit on the end of a cutoff HSS tool. I can
see this effort will break right off. I'm thinking to try mangling a
two flute endmill in the morning.

Maybe somebody has a better idea.

Karl

The trick here is to grind a tool that looks like a curved parting
tool, with radius of 1.25" on the wide part. The curvature is so the
supporting material under the cutting edge stays within the groove
that the cutting edge makes. The projection would be about .060" thick
(groove width minus a skosh), projecting length need only be slightly
more than the required groove depth. I'd grind it out of a square HSS
tool bit.

That's beyond my ability to freehand grind. But, you gave me an idea.
I could CNC machine the perfect cutter out of the soft end of a drill
1/2" bit. Then harden.

OK, I don't remember best procedure to harden drill rod into a cutter.
Anybody?

Karl

"Drill Rod", i.e., 1095 steel - heat to cherry red, hole at that
temperature for a few minutes; quench in salt water; polish and reheat
to light straw color and re-quench.

If it cracks try light oil or maybe kerosene.

At least that's how my apprentice-master told us to do it :-)

Karl Townsend wrote:

I started grinding a little tit on the end of a cutoff HSS tool.

Take a 1/4" HSS blank, why? Less to grind. Grind a vee relief to clear the radius of the
groove. You will be fine.

I wish I could show you a picture of our stacked groovers we use to cut tightly spaced
grooves in rotors. Cutting 8 grooves at a time in aluminum will take a 15 hp spindle to
the edge and poly microvee belts suck compared to rubber. One will slip and melt, the
other will grip and stop the spindle motor.

Wes

On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 17:07:16 -0500, john
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 00:44:12 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sun, 06 Mar 2011 19:45:40 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:

Got a tuff little job for tomorrow morning...

I'm making a new end of an air cylinder. Start with a 3.5 by 3.5 block
1.5" thick. Center and turn in the lathe so you now have a 2.5" round
protruding 0.25".

Now for the tuff part, turn a groove 0.062" wide on the face right at
the 2.5" round. (This holds rubber ring seal). I've turned a groove on
a face in the lathe before, but never with the protrusion in the way.

I started grinding a little tit on the end of a cutoff HSS tool. I can
see this effort will break right off. I'm thinking to try mangling a
two flute endmill in the morning.

Maybe somebody has a better idea.

Karl

The trick here is to grind a tool that looks like a curved parting
tool, with radius of 1.25" on the wide part. The curvature is so the
supporting material under the cutting edge stays within the groove
that the cutting edge makes. The projection would be about .060" thick
(groove width minus a skosh), projecting length need only be slightly
more than the required groove depth. I'd grind it out of a square HSS
tool bit.

That's beyond my ability to freehand grind. But, you gave me an idea.
I could CNC machine the perfect cutter out of the soft end of a drill
1/2" bit. Then harden.

OK, I don't remember best procedure to harden drill rod into a cutter.
Anybody?

Karl


This cutter shape is not hard to grind.

http://userweb.intergrafix.net/amdinc/tooling+.jpg

John


THANKS
The picture was worth a 1000 words. I just ground a real nice cutter.

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:
On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 17:07:16 -0500,
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 00:44:12 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sun, 06 Mar 2011 19:45:40 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:

Got a tuff little job for tomorrow morning...

I'm making a new end of an air cylinder. Start with a 3.5 by 3.5 block
1.5" thick. Center and turn in the lathe so you now have a 2.5" round
protruding 0.25".

Now for the tuff part, turn a groove 0.062" wide on the face right at
the 2.5" round. (This holds rubber ring seal). I've turned a groove on
a face in the lathe before, but never with the protrusion in the way.

I started grinding a little tit on the end of a cutoff HSS tool. I can
see this effort will break right off. I'm thinking to try mangling a
two flute endmill in the morning.

Maybe somebody has a better idea.

Karl

The trick here is to grind a tool that looks like a curved parting
tool, with radius of 1.25" on the wide part. The curvature is so the
supporting material under the cutting edge stays within the groove
that the cutting edge makes. The projection would be about .060" thick
(groove width minus a skosh), projecting length need only be slightly
more than the required groove depth. I'd grind it out of a square HSS
tool bit.

That's beyond my ability to freehand grind. But, you gave me an idea.
I could CNC machine the perfect cutter out of the soft end of a drill
1/2" bit. Then harden.

OK, I don't remember best procedure to harden drill rod into a cutter.
Anybody?

Karl


This cutter shape is not hard to grind.

http://userweb.intergrafix.net/amdinc/tooling+.jpg

John


THANKS
The picture was worth a 1000 words. I just ground a real nice cutter.

Karl



Just make sure you have enough re leaf for the arc of the groove. If
the side of the .062 tip rubs the groove will be oversized. Check the
cutter for rubbing on the side and if it is grind a little more side
clearance,


John