Folks, I would lie to be able to measure workpiece length while the
part is still chucked up. I see that Starrett has such a beast, but is a
bit rich. Any suggestions?

Louis Ohland wrote:
Folks, I would lie to be able to measure workpiece length while the
part is still chucked up. I see that Starrett has such a beast, but is a
bit rich. Any suggestions?


For a hollow tube a hook scale would work. If your eyes are good you
should be able to measure within a 64th or better with no problem.

How close do you want to measure it?

John

On 2/25/2011 16:44, john wrote:
Louis Ohland wrote:
Folks, I would lie to be able to measure workpiece length while the
part is still chucked up. I see that Starrett has such a beast, but is a
bit rich. Any suggestions?


For a hollow tube a hook scale would work. If your eyes are good you
should be able to measure within a 64th or better with no problem.

How close do you want to measure it?

As close as sanity provides. Within a thou.

Louis Ohland wrote:
On 2/25/2011 16:44, john wrote:
Louis Ohland wrote:
Folks, I would lie to be able to measure workpiece length while the
part is still chucked up. I see that Starrett has such a beast, but is a
bit rich. Any suggestions?


For a hollow tube a hook scale would work. If your eyes are good you
should be able to measure within a 64th or better with no problem.

How close do you want to measure it?

As close as sanity provides. Within a thou.


If you want cheap make up a hook scale without numbers and then depth
mike off the opposite end of it. Measure the length of the hook scale
and do the math. Or if you can put a straight edge across the back end
just use a depth mike.

John

Louis Ohland wrote:

Folks, I would lie to be able to measure workpiece length while the
part is still chucked up. I see that Starrett has such a beast, but is a
bit rich. Any suggestions?

If I can assume you know the length before you start turning it it should be simple. You
need to know what you removed. The micrometer stop is good for that. dychem your
workpiece so you can see when you first start cutting. Use the stop for the rest.

I'm thinking the other way, know what you have and measure what you take off.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Wes wrote:

Folks, I would lie to be able to measure workpiece length while the
part is still chucked up. I see that Starrett has such a beast, but is a
bit rich. Any suggestions?

If I can assume you know the length before you start turning it it should be simple. You
need to know what you removed. The micrometer stop is good for that. dychem your
workpiece so you can see when you first start cutting. Use the stop for the rest.

I'm thinking the other way, know what you have and measure what you take off.

Also turning your compound parallel, carriage locked, feed to take off the dykem and then
use your dial or dro.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On Feb 25, 5:23*pm, Wes wrote:
Wes wrote:
* Folks, I would lie to be able to measure workpiece length while the
part is still chucked up. I see that Starrett has such a beast, but is a
bit rich. Any suggestions?

..

Wes
--
..

I have used a depth mic rod with a disk like flanged end [.025 wide ]
that does that for over 40 years.
With it you can measure location and width of o'ring grooves deep down
bores and the like.
You have to zero it every time and use a double nut to lock rod in
place. For longer then 1 inch
you have to use a jo block to set. And subtract the ,025 going one
direction.

Jim

PS One rod works in a standard depth mic for up to 6 inches.