I was recently asking about parts for the lead screw clutch on a 12 x 36
Atlas. Sunworshipper replied the dimensions and I made the main part.
I ordered the 4 simple and cheap parts from Clausing*, but they sent 2
of the wrong ones. So I think that I'll make those. They are .030
steel, 3/4" ID, 1-1/4" OD.

I'm thinking that I'll chuck up a small hunk of aluminum & super-glue
the .030 stock to it. Then turn the ID & OD, in that order. Does that
sound doable? Would double sided tape work better that super-glue?

Thanks,
Bob

* - Clausing is a great outfit: I ordered 4 clutch washers at about $1
each & shipping was about $1. $5 total, no minimum, no handling, etc.
Some of their parts are very expensive, but you don't have to buy those.

On Feb 22, 5:18*pm, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
I was recently asking about parts for the lead screw clutch on a 12 x 36
Atlas. *Sunworshipper replied the dimensions and I made the main part.
I ordered the 4 simple and cheap parts from Clausing*, but they sent 2
of the wrong ones. *So I think that I'll make those. *They are .030
steel, 3/4" ID, 1-1/4" OD.

I'm thinking that I'll chuck up a small hunk of aluminum & super-glue
the .030 stock to it. *Then turn the ID & OD, in that order. *Does that
sound doable? *Would double sided tape work better that super-glue?

Thanks,
Bob

Do you have a slitting saw arbor that could hold them to turn the OD?

jsw

Jim Wilkins wrote:
Do you have a slitting saw arbor that could hold them to turn the OD?

No. I could make an arbor, or just use 3/4" all thread. But, I have to
get the ID done & if face turning will do that, I might as well turn the
OD while I'm at it.

Bob

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote
in message ...
I was recently asking about parts for the lead
screw clutch on a 12 x 36 Atlas. Sunworshipper
replied the dimensions and I made the main part.
I ordered the 4 simple and cheap parts from
Clausing*, but they sent 2 of the wrong ones. So
I think that I'll make those. They are .030
steel, 3/4" ID, 1-1/4" OD.

I'm thinking that I'll chuck up a small hunk of
aluminum & super-glue the .030 stock to it.
Then turn the ID & OD, in that order. Does that
sound doable? Would double sided tape work
better that super-glue?

Thanks,
Bob

or just try parting them off. A 1/4 inch deep is
doable, easy.
But, is that 0.030 stock a special alloy? If it is
you could
sandwich it between steel collars to do the o.d.

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
I was recently asking about parts for the lead screw clutch on a 12 x 36
Atlas. Sunworshipper replied the dimensions and I made the main part. I
ordered the 4 simple and cheap parts from Clausing*, but they sent 2 of
the wrong ones. So I think that I'll make those. They are .030 steel,
3/4" ID, 1-1/4" OD.

I'm thinking that I'll chuck up a small hunk of aluminum & super-glue the
.030 stock to it. Then turn the ID & OD, in that order. Does that sound
doable? Would double sided tape work better that super-glue?

Thanks,
Bob

or just try parting them off. A 1/4 inch deep is doable, easy.
But, is that 0.030 stock a special alloy? If it is you could
sandwich it between steel collars to do the o.d.


Probably is a stock item at Mcmaster Carr

Bob Engelhardt wrote:

I was recently asking about parts for the lead screw clutch on a 12 x 36
Atlas. Sunworshipper replied the dimensions and I made the main part.
I ordered the 4 simple and cheap parts from Clausing*, but they sent 2
of the wrong ones. So I think that I'll make those. They are .030
steel, 3/4" ID, 1-1/4" OD.

I'm thinking that I'll chuck up a small hunk of aluminum & super-glue
the .030 stock to it. Then turn the ID & OD, in that order. Does that
sound doable? Would double sided tape work better that super-glue?

The only thing I've ever successfully super-glued to anything is skin. =:-O

Cheers!
Rich

Bob Engelhardt wrote:

I was recently asking about parts for the lead screw clutch on a 12 x 36
Atlas. Sunworshipper replied the dimensions and I made the main part.
I ordered the 4 simple and cheap parts from Clausing*, but they sent 2
of the wrong ones. So I think that I'll make those. They are .030
steel, 3/4" ID, 1-1/4" OD.

I'm thinking that I'll chuck up a small hunk of aluminum & super-glue
the .030 stock to it. Then turn the ID & OD, in that order. Does that
sound doable? Would double sided tape work better that super-glue?

I wonder if circle punches, sometimes known as "arch punches" would do
the trick?

They'd probably have to some special kind of super-hard alloy, I suppose.

Recently, a co-worker who is a real machinist had to make some Viton
gaskets; he took a piece of ordinary steel and made a die, and cut the
Viton gaskets on the press. But .030 steel isn't Viton!

Good Luck!
Rich

"Rich Grise" wrote in message
...
Bob Engelhardt wrote:

I was recently asking about parts for the lead screw clutch on a 12 x 36
Atlas. Sunworshipper replied the dimensions and I made the main part.
I ordered the 4 simple and cheap parts from Clausing*, but they sent 2
of the wrong ones. So I think that I'll make those. They are .030
steel, 3/4" ID, 1-1/4" OD.

I'm thinking that I'll chuck up a small hunk of aluminum & super-glue
the .030 stock to it. Then turn the ID & OD, in that order. Does that
sound doable? Would double sided tape work better that super-glue?

I wonder if circle punches, sometimes known as "arch punches" would do
the trick?

They'd probably have to some special kind of super-hard alloy, I suppose.

Recently, a co-worker who is a real machinist had to make some Viton
gaskets; he took a piece of ordinary steel and made a die, and cut the
Viton gaskets on the press. But .030 steel isn't Viton!

Good Luck!
Rich


I had a seal custom cnc'd for a 50mm pneumatic ram a year or so back from
some softish rubber, maybe viton. They told us they froze the work to firm
it up for machining.

On Tue, 22 Feb 2011 17:18:21 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

I was recently asking about parts for the lead screw clutch on a 12 x 36
Atlas. Sunworshipper replied the dimensions and I made the main part.
I ordered the 4 simple and cheap parts from Clausing*, but they sent 2
of the wrong ones. So I think that I'll make those. They are .030
steel, 3/4" ID, 1-1/4" OD.

I'm thinking that I'll chuck up a small hunk of aluminum & super-glue
the .030 stock to it. Then turn the ID & OD, in that order. Does that
sound doable? Would double sided tape work better that super-glue?


FWIW I turn 0.020" brass discs, inside and outside, glued to steel
discs which are in turn held in a chuck. Their diameters vary from
2.5" to 4.5".

I cannot use superglue as it won't hold brass to steel, but
steel-to-steel holds well as long as you choose the *right* superglue.

I have no experience with steel-to-aluminum.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On Feb 22, 5:18*pm, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
I was recently asking about parts for the lead screw clutch on a 12 x 36
Atlas. *Sunworshipper replied the dimensions and I made the main part.
I ordered the 4 simple and cheap parts from Clausing*, but they sent 2
of the wrong ones. *So I think that I'll make those. *They are .030
steel, 3/4" ID, 1-1/4" OD.

I'm thinking that I'll chuck up a small hunk of aluminum & super-glue
the .030 stock to it. *Then turn the ID & OD, in that order. *Does that
sound doable? *Would double sided tape work better that super-glue?

Thanks,
Bob

* - Clausing is a great outfit: I ordered 4 clutch washers at about $1
each & shipping was about $1. *$5 total, no minimum, no handling, etc.
Some of their parts are very expensive, but you don't have to buy those.

I use double-sided tape with good results. I always warm up the
backing plate and put on a pretty good squeeze to get a good, complete
bond, and then cool it back down before working so the adhesive
doesn't tend to creep.

On Feb 22, 4:18*pm, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
I was recently asking about parts for the lead screw clutch on a 12 x 36
Atlas. *Sunworshipper replied the dimensions and I made the main part.
I ordered the 4 simple and cheap parts from Clausing*, but they sent 2
of the wrong ones. *So I think that I'll make those. *They are .030
steel, 3/4" ID, 1-1/4" OD.

I'm thinking that I'll chuck up a small hunk of aluminum & super-glue
the .030 stock to it. *Then turn the ID & OD, in that order. *Does that
sound doable? *Would double sided tape work better that super-glue?

Thanks,
Bob

* - Clausing is a great outfit: I ordered 4 clutch washers at about $1
each & shipping was about $1. *$5 total, no minimum, no handling, etc.
Some of their parts are very expensive, but you don't have to buy those.

To do the ID, I'd probably use a Unibit on the drill press. Instead
of using super glue, I think that I would capture it in the lathe
centered between two pieces of sacrificial stock. One piece held by
the chuck and the other piece held in place with the pressure of the
tailstock. Clamp the sheet metal piece between them, and then turn
the OD.

On Wed, 23 Feb 2011 03:53:37 -0800 (PST), "Denis G."
wrote:

On Feb 22, 4:18*pm, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
I was recently asking about parts for the lead screw clutch on a 12 x 36
Atlas. *Sunworshipper replied the dimensions and I made the main part.
I ordered the 4 simple and cheap parts from Clausing*, but they sent 2
of the wrong ones. *So I think that I'll make those. *They are .030
steel, 3/4" ID, 1-1/4" OD.

I'm thinking that I'll chuck up a small hunk of aluminum & super-glue
the .030 stock to it. *Then turn the ID & OD, in that order. *Does that
sound doable? *Would double sided tape work better that super-glue?

Thanks,
Bob

* - Clausing is a great outfit: I ordered 4 clutch washers at about $1
each & shipping was about $1. *$5 total, no minimum, no handling, etc.
Some of their parts are very expensive, but you don't have to buy those.

To do the ID, I'd probably use a Unibit on the drill press. Instead
of using super glue, I think that I would capture it in the lathe
centered between two pieces of sacrificial stock. One piece held by
the chuck and the other piece held in place with the pressure of the
tailstock. Clamp the sheet metal piece between them, and then turn
the OD.
2nd that. I'd use a 3/4 bolt and two washers as the arbor and
sacrificial metal. Put several nuts on the bolt to hold in the three
jaw chuck.

On Feb 23, 7:19*am, Karl Townsend
wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2011 03:53:37 -0800 (PST), "Denis G."
...
To do the ID, I'd probably use a Unibit on the drill press. *Instead
of using super glue, I think that I would capture it in the lathe
centered between two pieces of sacrificial stock. *One piece held by
the chuck and the other piece held in place with the pressure of the
tailstock. *Clamp the sheet metal piece between them, and then turn
the OD.

2nd that. I'd use a 3/4 bolt and two washers as the arbor and
sacrificial metal. Put several nuts on the bolt to hold in the three
jaw chuck.

I was thinking of drilling and boring the hole first too, maybe in
square sheared blanks stacked and clamped to a faceplate under a
washer. Then they could be sheared / chiseled / sawn close to a
scribed OD line.

You can center drill the ends of a bolt and run it between centers to
cut a precise work-holding step in the underside of the head. If you
turn down the threaded end to fit a collet the arbor can be removed
and replaced easily and you don't have to fuss with a driving dog. The
driving leverage is poor and the collet can slip so take light cuts. I
suppose a 3-jaw would work as long as it doesn't force the tailstock
center hole out of line.

I use the next larger nut or a big socket as the spacer.

jsw

Phil Kangas wrote:
or just try parting them off. ...

Ya know ... I thought of that & dismissed it 'cause I figured the washer
would be distorted. But now that I think about it, there's no cutting
forces on the thin part.

So I tried it, but I couldn't get the tool to cut straight in - it
veered away from the washer, making it thicker as it went. There must
be something screwed up in the tool or tool holder geometry. I fooled
around with it a bit and then went on to plan B.

Thanks,
Bob

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
Probably is a stock item at Mcmaster Carr

This is pretty unusual dimensions and I thought McM-C would never have
this exact washer, but they were close: 3/4 x 1-1/4 x .048 (I was
looking for .032). I could have lived with that. But I have already
made them.

Thanks,
Bob

Rich Grise wrote:
I wonder if circle punches, sometimes known as "arch punches" would do
the trick?
...

Yeah ... I really should get a set of those G. But I don't think that
they would handle steel. Maybe ... whatta I know.

Bob

wrote:
...
I cannot use superglue as it won't hold brass to steel, but
steel-to-steel holds well as long as you choose the *right* superglue.

I have no experience with steel-to-aluminum.

I don't know why I thought I would use an aluminum backer ... it just
came to mind. Since I'd have no idea whether my super glue was the
right super glue, I did a pass on this idea. Nest time, maybe.

Bob

Pat wrote:
I use double-sided tape with good results. I always warm up the
backing plate and put on a pretty good squeeze to get a good, complete
bond, and then cool it back down before working so the adhesive
doesn't tend to creep.

Thanks - I did try it, with poor results. The cutting heat warmed the
adhesive too much & it did creep. I suppose that I could have cooled it
during the cut, but I just went on the Plan C.

Thanks,
Bob

Denis G. wrote:
To do the ID, I'd probably use a Unibit on the drill press. Instead
of using super glue, I think that I would capture it in the lathe
centered between two pieces of sacrificial stock. One piece held by
the chuck and the other piece held in place with the pressure of the
tailstock. Clamp the sheet metal piece between them, and then turn
the OD.

(Plan C)

I did this & it worked a treat, as they say. I hadn't thought of the
Unibit, but it was just right. I turned a 3/4" stub on the piece in the
chuck, to center the washers. And a 3/4" recess in the clamping piece,
to fit over the stub.

Thanks,
Bob

Karl Townsend wrote:
2nd that. I'd use a 3/4 bolt and two washers as the arbor and
sacrificial metal. Put several nuts on the bolt to hold in the three
jaw chuck.

I only had 3/4" all-thread and it was too small (by 1/64) - I needed to
have the washer centered better than that.

Thanks,
Bob

On 02/22/2011 05:27 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Feb 2011 17:18:21 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

I was recently asking about parts for the lead screw clutch on a 12 x 36
Atlas. Sunworshipper replied the dimensions and I made the main part.
I ordered the 4 simple and cheap parts from Clausing*, but they sent 2
of the wrong ones. So I think that I'll make those. They are .030
steel, 3/4" ID, 1-1/4" OD.

I'm thinking that I'll chuck up a small hunk of aluminum& super-glue
the .030 stock to it. Then turn the ID& OD, in that order. Does that
sound doable? Would double sided tape work better that super-glue?


FWIW I turn 0.020" brass discs, inside and outside, glued to steel
discs which are in turn held in a chuck. Their diameters vary from
2.5" to 4.5".

I cannot use superglue as it won't hold brass to steel, but
steel-to-steel holds well as long as you choose the *right* superglue.

So what's the *right* superglue?

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

On 02/22/2011 05:10 PM, Rich Grise wrote:
Bob Engelhardt wrote:

I was recently asking about parts for the lead screw clutch on a 12 x 36
Atlas. Sunworshipper replied the dimensions and I made the main part.
I ordered the 4 simple and cheap parts from Clausing*, but they sent 2
of the wrong ones. So I think that I'll make those. They are .030
steel, 3/4" ID, 1-1/4" OD.

I'm thinking that I'll chuck up a small hunk of aluminum& super-glue
the .030 stock to it. Then turn the ID& OD, in that order. Does that
sound doable? Would double sided tape work better that super-glue?

The only thing I've ever successfully super-glued to anything is skin. =:-O

You're probably using the wrong stuff, then. Regular department store
superglue is useless for just about anything except separating consumers
from their money. Hobby-shop superglue is superlative for gluing softer
woods (like balsa and poplar) together, not too bad for metal-to-wood
and metal-to-metal. It is, of course, superlative for gluing just about
anything to skin.

(Note: at least with the hobby store superglues, if you glue yourself to
something you can just wait -- the glue starts to release from skin
after ten or twenty minutes; after a few hours there's very little
adhesion, and if you have the patience and aren't glued to anything too
big after a day or two it just drops off. I don't know if this is from
the oils in one's skin, or in the outer layer of dead cells sloughing
off and staying stuck to the glue, or what -- but it is handy if you
don't have the right solvent).

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

Tim Wescott wrote:
On 02/22/2011 05:10 PM, Rich Grise wrote:
Bob Engelhardt wrote:

I was recently asking about parts for the lead screw clutch on a 12 x 36
Atlas. Sunworshipper replied the dimensions and I made the main part.
I ordered the 4 simple and cheap parts from Clausing*, but they sent 2
of the wrong ones. So I think that I'll make those. They are .030
steel, 3/4" ID, 1-1/4" OD.

I'm thinking that I'll chuck up a small hunk of aluminum& super-glue
the .030 stock to it. Then turn the ID& OD, in that order. Does that
sound doable? Would double sided tape work better that super-glue?

The only thing I've ever successfully super-glued to anything is skin.
=:-O

You're probably using the wrong stuff, then. Regular department store
superglue is useless for just about anything except separating consumers
from their money. Hobby-shop superglue is superlative for gluing softer
woods (like balsa and poplar) together, not too bad for metal-to-wood
and metal-to-metal. It is, of course, superlative for gluing just about
anything to skin.

(Note: at least with the hobby store superglues, if you glue yourself to
something you can just wait -- the glue starts to release from skin
after ten or twenty minutes; after a few hours there's very little
adhesion, and if you have the patience and aren't glued to anything too
big after a day or two it just drops off. I don't know if this is from
the oils in one's skin, or in the outer layer of dead cells sloughing
off and staying stuck to the glue, or what -- but it is handy if you
don't have the right solvent).

I was once making a perfboard prototype (my first forte is electronics;
I'm still learning about machining and welding), and I used some superglue
to hold a pin header to the perfboard. I put the glue on the board, stuck
the pin header into it, and tried to hold it down between my thumb and
finger - it slipped and the pin header fell on the floor. Just at that
moment, the boss was walking by, he stooped over and picked up the pin
header, asking, "Drop this, Rich?" When he went to toss it back onto my
bench, it stuck to his finger.

We all had a friendly little laugh, he pulled it loose, and a good time
was had by all. :-)

I _did_ get the pin header attached (maybe that little fragment of his
skin helped! ;-) ) and the prototype worked perfectly, as all my electronic
stuff does. (I'll try not to dislocate my shoulder patting myself on the
back.)

Cheers!
Rich

On Wed, 23 Feb 2011 11:29:54 -0800, Tim Wescott
wrote:

[...]

I cannot use superglue as it won't hold brass to steel, but
steel-to-steel holds well as long as you choose the *right* superglue.

So what's the *right* superglue?

I have three, each from different company. Each has different
viscosity, each works best in different applications:

Thinnest
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...at=1,110,42966

Medium
http://www.kmstools.com/bsi-insta-flex-glue-1oz-10370

Gel
https://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/2P...z-6p12826.htm#

Sometimes with accelerator, sometimes without.
I have taken to using the 2P-10 instead of epoxy in some applications.

Between them they take care of 80% of my gluing needs.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On 2011-02-23, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Phil Kangas wrote:
or just try parting them off. ...

Ya know ... I thought of that & dismissed it 'cause I figured the washer
would be distorted. But now that I think about it, there's no cutting
forces on the thin part.

So I tried it, but I couldn't get the tool to cut straight in - it
veered away from the washer, making it thicker as it went. There must
be something screwed up in the tool or tool holder geometry.

The parting blade is square to the length?

The blade is not more dull on one side than the other?

The blade is not perhaps tilted a bit, so one side rubs below
he cut?

The blade is truly at right angles to the workpiece axis?

All of the above can cause the point to creep.

Hmm ... the carriage was locked to prevent *it* moving while you
were parting?

I tend to prefer the T-profile parting blades for my systems.
More expensive, but nice.

I fooled
around with it a bit and then went on to plan B.

O.K.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Feb 23, 1:19*pm, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Denis G. wrote:
To do the ID, I'd probably use a Unibit on the drill press. *Instead
of using super glue, I think that I would capture it in the lathe
centered between two pieces of sacrificial stock. *One piece held by
the chuck and the other piece held in place with the pressure of the
tailstock. *Clamp the sheet metal piece between them, and then turn
the OD.

(Plan C)

I did this & it worked a treat, as they say. *I hadn't thought of the
Unibit, but it was just right. *I turned a 3/4" stub on the piece in the
chuck, to center the washers. *And a 3/4" recess in the clamping piece,
to fit over the stub.

Thanks,
Bob

Glad everything worked out! I was also thinking of something similar
to what Jim Wilkins suggested for holding the ID concentric and making
a stepped holder out of aluminum so that you could press it between
the chuck and the tailstock. I just wasn't sure that you'd want to go
thru all the trouble. But, again, I'd glad you got it done. Spacers,
washers and bushings are probably the most common things made on my
lathe.