On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 13:49:14 GMT
Doug White wrote:

snip
To save folks speculation, I've posted a couple of snapshots that show
the busted handle and what the remaining good one looks like.

http://users.rcn.com/gwhite/MIT_Pist...e%20Handle.jpg

http://users.rcn.com/gwhite/MIT_Pist...%20handles.jpg

Might be missing something... but I would try fixing the broken handle
with a piece of bar stock, maybe a 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick, 6-8 inches
long? See my doctored image:

http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/SafeHandleFix.png

Drill three holes through the bar (red spots) and tap them for something
like 1/4x20. Find some short cap bolts to fit the thread you use.

Now hold the bar in place over the broken handle stub and mark the
three spots. Drill the holes. Put the bolts in from the back side and
then cut them off flush with the bar.

By using cap bolts you should reduce the risk of someone gouging their
hand if they bump into them. The only work you need to do at
the safes location is drill some holes and bolt the repair in place.
Shrug...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Leon Fisk wrote in news:ii4brd$qov$1
@news.eternal-september.org:

On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 13:49:14 GMT
Doug White wrote:

snip
To save folks speculation, I've posted a couple of snapshots that show
the busted handle and what the remaining good one looks like.

http://users.rcn.com/gwhite/MIT_Pist...e%20Handle.jpg

http://users.rcn.com/gwhite/MIT_Pist...eilink%20Safe%
20handles.jpg

Might be missing something... but I would try fixing the broken handle
with a piece of bar stock, maybe a 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick, 6-8 inches
long? See my doctored image:

http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/SafeHandleFix.png

Drill three holes through the bar (red spots) and tap them for
something
like 1/4x20. Find some short cap bolts to fit the thread you use.

Now hold the bar in place over the broken handle stub and mark the
three spots. Drill the holes. Put the bolts in from the back side and
then cut them off flush with the bar.

By using cap bolts you should reduce the risk of someone gouging their
hand if they bump into them. The only work you need to do at
the safes location is drill some holes and bolt the repair in place.
Shrug...

That was "Plan A". I will probably still go that route. I opened the
safe up last night, and the existing handle is secured by peening over
the end of the threaded shaft to prevent the nut from coming off. Even
with an exact replacement handle, swapping it out is do-able, but isn't
as easy as I had hoped. Even if I could find a surplus handle, it will
presumably already be damaged to one degree or another by this process.

Given that the handle material is brittle, I'd rather not weaken it by
drilling several holes in it, and then apply force to those holes. My
plan is to mill a close fitting pocket in a bar that will apply the
opening & closing force to the sides of the lever. One bolt & some epoxy
should hold it on OK.

Doug White

On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 19:15:46 GMT
Doug White wrote:

snip
Given that the handle material is brittle, I'd rather not weaken it by
drilling several holes in it, and then apply force to those holes. My
plan is to mill a close fitting pocket in a bar that will apply the
opening & closing force to the sides of the lever. One bolt & some epoxy
should hold it on OK.

Doug White

Sounds like a good plan to me. Wasn't sure if you had access to a mill,
figured I would keep it really simple. Most of us here have a drill

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email