Seems simple... How do you think It will work out?

http://www.instructables.com/image/F...The-design.jpg

or here if the picture won't show by itself.

http://www.instructables.com/id/maki...lling-machine/

Obviously adjust the dimensions to match your application. Is there
something better that might make it easier to square and repeat alignment
upon removal and remounting of the vise? The only think I can think of is
to mount an alignment bar on the bottom of the vise that will drop in the
table t-slots.

Bob La Londe wrote:
Seems simple... How do you think It will work out?

http://www.instructables.com/image/F...The-design.jpg

or here if the picture won't show by itself.

http://www.instructables.com/id/maki...lling-machine/


Obviously adjust the dimensions to match your application. Is there
something better that might make it easier to square and repeat
alignment upon removal and remounting of the vise? The only think I
can think of is to mount an alignment bar on the bottom of the vise
that will drop in the table t-slots.


That looks very like what came with my Gerardi modular vice but they
don't have the radii your images shows, also the Gerardi ones are
thicker in the T slot area and the tip is thinned to fit the slot in the
side of the vice. The Gerardi came with a slot in the bottom and keys
for the purpose of alignment in the T slots. The vice it replaced had
dowel pins in the underside for alignment to the edge of the T slots. I
was taught that the T slot can be used for this purpose and on good
machines are accurately ground parallel to the movement. Many tools such
as the Suburban tool spin indexer have the base ground so that it can be
place against a bar set into the T slot for quick alignment, I had to do
the base machining myself to allow that on my cheap Chinese knock-off
spin indexer.

On Jan 25, 11:34*pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
Seems simple... *How do you think It will work out?

http://www.instructables.com/image/F...The-design.jpg

* or here if the picture won't show by itself.

http://www.instructables.com/id/maki...he-milling-mac...

Obviously adjust the dimensions to match your application. *Is there
something better that might make it easier to square and repeat alignment
upon removal and remounting of the vise? *The only think I can think of is
to mount an alignment bar on the bottom of the vise that will drop in the
table t-slots.

Similar clips attach the mag chuck to my surface grinder.

A bar or two keys under the vise works fine, but is difficult to
machine accurately, especially if the tee slots aren't exactly
parallel to the X axis. I figured out how for an RF-31 mill-drill once
and if yours are angled I'll try to remember and post the method.

jsw

"Bob La Londe" fired this volley in
:

The only think I can think of is
to mount an alignment bar on the bottom of the vise that will drop in
the table t-slots.

Even that isn't accurate enough for good work. Unless you're profiling
the outside of an over-sized piece, you always need to true up the work
so it indicates parallel to the X axis. And even if you are profiling a
big piece, if you must ever re-vise it to a new face, you won't be
accurate unless you've previously got the vise squared to the table.

My 8" mill vise has a bottom Y-axis cross-bar on it, along with a Y-slot
in the BP's table. It's within a few thousanths of true end-to-end as
soon as it drops into the slot, but still must be trued by hand.

LLoyd

Blocks, or a bar that fits in a table slot is good for getting
alignment/setup close.. but table slots will wear with repeated
(dis)mountings.

Hold-downs should be adequately strong and well tightened to absolutely
insure that the workholding device won't move untentionally.. not just held
in place from the "that looks secure" perspective.

The clamps shown appear to be fabricated from angle iron, which is generally
thin for the overall size of commonly available sizes. Thicker cross
sections can be found in angle with large dimensions, not so much with
smaller dimensions.

It appears that the items which were referred to could be suitable/reliable
for only light duty milling.. anything larger would very likely require much
more subtantial thicknesses in material.. and more material relative to the
size of the slot.

It's the width of the slot size that makes those suggested clamps (look)
weak, IMO.. removing 1/2 of the material seems very counterintuitive to me.

I try to keep the hold-down bolts (with a heavy washer under the nut) close
to the side of the workholding device, whether the bar/clamp have a slot, or
just a hole.. this is generally easier when blocks are placed on the
other/outer side of the bolt.

--
WB
..........


"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
Seems simple... How do you think It will work out?

http://www.instructables.com/image/F...The-design.jpg

or here if the picture won't show by itself.

http://www.instructables.com/id/maki...lling-machine/

Obviously adjust the dimensions to match your application. Is there
something better that might make it easier to square and repeat alignment
upon removal and remounting of the vise? The only think I can think of is
to mount an alignment bar on the bottom of the vise that will drop in the
table t-slots.