My rockwell horizontal mill has a #30 taper spindle.
I recently bought some carbide endmills that do not have a flat on them
so they cannot be held with an endmill holder.

I have two ways to hold them. Bison ER32 collet chuck or Erickson 180DA
collet chuck. Both suffer from the same limitations. The end of the collet
chuck is much larger than the endmill holder so it might hit the vise.
Also the nut sticks out farther than the collet so about 1/4 inch of
endmill length is lost.

I'm looking for better options. Suggestions please?

BTW, good quality carbide endmills are awesome. I was cutting Stainless
steel like it was aluminum!
chuck

On 25 Jan 2005 16:34:51 GMT, (Charles A.
Sherwood) wrote:


My rockwell horizontal mill has a #30 taper spindle.
I recently bought some carbide endmills that do not have a flat on them
so they cannot be held with an endmill holder.

I have two ways to hold them. Bison ER32 collet chuck or Erickson 180DA
collet chuck. Both suffer from the same limitations. The end of the collet
chuck is much larger than the endmill holder so it might hit the vise.
Also the nut sticks out farther than the collet so about 1/4 inch of
endmill length is lost.

I'm looking for better options. Suggestions please?

BTW, good quality carbide endmills are awesome. I was cutting Stainless
steel like it was aluminum!
chuck

Buy extended endmill holders and grind a flat on the shank of the
endmills. Thats da only way. Shrug. YMMV of course

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

Buy extended endmill holders and grind a flat on the shank of the
endmills. Thats da only way.

I suppose that means I need to buy a diamond grinding wheel
to grind a flat on carbide endmill? Why don't they come with flats?

cs

On 25 Jan 2005 16:34:51 GMT, (Charles A.
Sherwood) wrote:


My rockwell horizontal mill has a #30 taper spindle.
I recently bought some carbide endmills that do not have a flat on them
so they cannot be held with an endmill holder.

I have two ways to hold them. Bison ER32 collet chuck or Erickson 180DA
collet chuck. Both suffer from the same limitations. The end of the collet
chuck is much larger than the endmill holder so it might hit the vise.
Also the nut sticks out farther than the collet so about 1/4 inch of
endmill length is lost.

I'm looking for better options. Suggestions please?

BTW, good quality carbide endmills are awesome. I was cutting Stainless
steel like it was aluminum!
chuck
Greetings Chuck,
You can grind a flat on the endmill shank. Also, depending on the load
on the cutter you can just tighten the set screw on the shank. I do
this in my big mill with the #50 holders. Most of the time I'm not
hogging and so have no trouble with carbide endmills pulling out.
ERS

Charles A. Sherwood wrote:

Buy extended endmill holders and grind a flat on the shank of the
endmills. Thats da only way.



I suppose that means I need to buy a diamond grinding wheel
to grind a flat on carbide endmill? Why don't they come with flats?

cs




A silicon (green) wheel will grind carbide. They usually don't have
flats because there are better ways of holding endmills than with a
setscrew. At the high end, they use heat shrink tool holders.

In article ,
says...
On 25 Jan 2005 16:34:51 GMT, (Charles A.
Sherwood) wrote:


My rockwell horizontal mill has a #30 taper spindle.
I recently bought some carbide endmills that do not have a flat on them
so they cannot be held with an endmill holder.

I have two ways to hold them. Bison ER32 collet chuck or Erickson 180DA
collet chuck. Both suffer from the same limitations. The end of the collet
chuck is much larger than the endmill holder so it might hit the vise.
Also the nut sticks out farther than the collet so about 1/4 inch of
endmill length is lost.

I'm looking for better options. Suggestions please?

BTW, good quality carbide endmills are awesome. I was cutting Stainless
steel like it was aluminum!
chuck
Greetings Chuck,
You can grind a flat on the endmill shank. Also, depending on the load
on the cutter you can just tighten the set screw on the shank. I do
this in my big mill with the #50 holders. Most of the time I'm not
hogging and so have no trouble with carbide endmills pulling out.
ERS

Charles
Use a green wheel for the grinding of the flat. It won't look as good as
when done with a diamond wheel, the the end result will be the same.(at
maybe 10% of the cost.
dutchman
--
The older I get, the better I used to be.

What Eric said. Unless you're really putting a load on them, a perfectly
round end mill shank will be held adequately in a collet.

Bob Swinney
"Eric R Snow" wrote in message
news
On 25 Jan 2005 16:34:51 GMT, (Charles A.
Sherwood) wrote:


My rockwell horizontal mill has a #30 taper spindle.
I recently bought some carbide endmills that do not have a flat on them
so they cannot be held with an endmill holder.

I have two ways to hold them. Bison ER32 collet chuck or Erickson 180DA
collet chuck. Both suffer from the same limitations. The end of the collet
chuck is much larger than the endmill holder so it might hit the vise.
Also the nut sticks out farther than the collet so about 1/4 inch of
endmill length is lost.

I'm looking for better options. Suggestions please?

BTW, good quality carbide endmills are awesome. I was cutting Stainless
steel like it was aluminum!
chuck
Greetings Chuck,
You can grind a flat on the endmill shank. Also, depending on the load
on the cutter you can just tighten the set screw on the shank. I do
this in my big mill with the #50 holders. Most of the time I'm not
hogging and so have no trouble with carbide endmills pulling out.
ERS

In article ,
Robert Swinney wrote:
What Eric said. Unless you're really putting a load on them, a perfectly
round end mill shank will be held adequately in a collet.

Why not put a piece of lead shot under the setscrew. It will
spread out and grip the carbide nicely, while the setscrew will not grip
the raw carbide nicely, because neither the setscrew nor the carbide end
mill will deform readily.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 25 Jan 2005 18:14:47 GMT, (Charles A.
Sherwood) wrote:

Buy extended endmill holders and grind a flat on the shank of the
endmills. Thats da only way.

I suppose that means I need to buy a diamond grinding wheel
to grind a flat on carbide endmill? Why don't they come with flats?

cs

A green wheel works just fine. Why dont they come with flats? Some do.
But most are intended for use in collets, which dont use the flats.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

Why not put a piece of lead shot under the setscrew. It will
spread out and grip the carbide nicely, while the setscrew will not grip
the raw carbide nicely, because neither the setscrew nor the carbide end
mill will deform readily.

I suspect this will work. I also suspect it will necessary to push the
endmill out from the back. Would 50/50 plumbing solder work ok?

In article ,
Charles A. Sherwood wrote:
Why not put a piece of lead shot under the setscrew. It will
spread out and grip the carbide nicely, while the setscrew will not grip
the raw carbide nicely, because neither the setscrew nor the carbide end
mill will deform readily.

I suspect this will work. I also suspect it will necessary to push the
endmill out from the back. Would 50/50 plumbing solder work ok?

It probably would -- if you can still get it.

As for the removal problem, I would suggest driving a wood screw
into the lead to extract it.

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---