On 01/25/2011 01:31 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Phil fired this volley in news:ihl89j
:

You adjust the scope to the strike point so in
your case up and
right.


But nobody has answered his question!

Most scope adjustment screws are marked as to "Left-Right" or "+ -". In
my limited experience, moving the screw in the "L" or "-" direction moves
the _strike_point_ left. So, if you were already shooting left of the
the crosshairs, you'd want to move the crew to "R" or "+".

For up/down, up is +.

LLoyd
The scopes that I have worked with (not many) have had one of the grad
lines correspond to 1" at 100 yards.

BobH

I just blew through a box of .22 shells attempting to get my scope sighted
in. It went all over. I was at 30 yards. Scope is tight, and no apparent
damage.

When sighting in a scope, does one aim at the bullseye, then adjust the
scope point towards the center. IOW, I aim at the bullseye and hit high
right. Do I adjust the screws DOWN and LEFT, or do I adjust UP and RIGHT?
Towards the strike point, or towards the bullseye?

I know this is a simple matter, but right now I'm stymied, and don't want to
waste another box.

Steve

Steve B wrote:

I just blew through a box of .22 shells attempting to get my scope sighted
in. It went all over. I was at 30 yards. Scope is tight, and no apparent
damage.

When sighting in a scope, does one aim at the bullseye, then adjust the
scope point towards the center. IOW, I aim at the bullseye and hit high
right. Do I adjust the screws DOWN and LEFT, or do I adjust UP and RIGHT?
Towards the strike point, or towards the bullseye?

I know this is a simple matter, but right now I'm stymied, and don't want to
waste another box.

Steve

I believe the normal recommendation is to shoot groups of three at the
same aim point i.e. bullseye, and then make adjustments based on the
center of the cluster of three, with enough time between groups to allow
the barrel to cool (not a huge issue on a .22).

On 2011-01-24, Steve B wrote:
I just blew through a box of .22 shells attempting to get my scope sighted
in. It went all over. I was at 30 yards. Scope is tight, and no apparent
damage.

When sighting in a scope, does one aim at the bullseye, then adjust the
scope point towards the center. IOW, I aim at the bullseye and hit high
right. Do I adjust the screws DOWN and LEFT, or do I adjust UP and RIGHT?
Towards the strike point, or towards the bullseye?

I know this is a simple matter, but right now I'm stymied, and don't want to
waste another box.

I would, first, suggest that you stay at the same distance and keep
the scope aimed at one particular point. Note how widely the impact
points are dispersed (even if they do not hit where you aimed). This
would tell you how accurate is your rifle and scope combination.

For reasonable distances, you sight the scope for one distance and
then make adjustments per ballistic table.

i

Steve B wrote:
I just blew through a box of .22 shells attempting to get my scope
sighted in. It went all over. I was at 30 yards. Scope is tight,
and no apparent damage.

When sighting in a scope, does one aim at the bullseye, then adjust
the scope point towards the center. IOW, I aim at the bullseye and
hit high right. Do I adjust the screws DOWN and LEFT, or do I adjust
UP and RIGHT? Towards the strike point, or towards the bullseye?

I know this is a simple matter, but right now I'm stymied, and don't
want to waste another box.

Steve

Shoot a group of 3 or 5 rounds using the same point of aim . Find the center
and mark it with a mark you can see well thru the scope . Sandbag the rifle
in place with the crosshairs at the original point of aim . Adjust
crosshairs to coincide with the center-of-group mark .
Shoot another 3 or 5 shot group to check the new point of aim . Tweak as
necessary .

You *DID* keep track of which way you turned the screws to adjust the
point of aim , dincha ?

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

"Steve B" wrote in
message ...
I just blew through a box of .22 shells
attempting to get my scope sighted
in. It went all over. I was at 30 yards.
Scope is tight, and no apparent
damage.

When sighting in a scope, does one aim at the
bullseye, then adjust the
scope point towards the center. IOW, I aim at
the bullseye and hit high
right. Do I adjust the screws DOWN and LEFT, or
do I adjust UP and RIGHT?
Towards the strike point, or towards the
bullseye?

I know this is a simple matter, but right now
I'm stymied, and don't want to
waste another box.

Steve

Think of it this way, Steve. You can't do anything
to the barrel or
receiver to adjust them but you can adjust the
scope. Therefore,
aim for the bullseye first shot. Then adjust the
scope towards the
actual impact point. Fire again aiming at the
bullseye and see what
effect your adjustment had and turn it some more
for third shot.
The barrell is the true path and the scope is
adjusted to _it_.
You adjust the scope to the strike point so in
your case up and
right.

"Phil Kangas" fired this volley in news:ihl89j
:

You adjust the scope to the strike point so in
your case up and
right.


But nobody has answered his question!

Most scope adjustment screws are marked as to "Left-Right" or "+ -". In
my limited experience, moving the screw in the "L" or "-" direction moves
the _strike_point_ left. So, if you were already shooting left of the
the crosshairs, you'd want to move the crew to "R" or "+".

For up/down, up is +.

LLoyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
"Phil Kangas" fired this
volley in news:ihl89j
:

You adjust the scope to the strike point so in
your case up and
right.


But nobody has answered his question!

Most scope adjustment screws are marked as to
"Left-Right" or "+ -". In
my limited experience, moving the screw in the
"L" or "-" direction moves
the _strike_point_ left. So, if you were
already shooting left of the
the crosshairs, you'd want to move the crew to
"R" or "+".

For up/down, up is +.

LLoyd

I did answer his question! It's like dialing in a
workpiece in a four jaw
chuck on the lathe. The spindle (barrel) is
defining the path and the
chuck (scope) has no choice but to comply to it.
Move the crosshairs
to the point of impact, not the other way around.
It's a matter of
perspective IMHO. Seems to me only a couple of
shots will tell you
if you are turning the screws the right way.

On Jan 24, 4:35*pm, Ignoramus21198 ignoramus21...@NOSPAM.
21198.invalid wrote:
On 2011-01-24, Steve B wrote:

I just blew through a box of .22 shells attempting to get my scope sighted
in. *It went all over. *I was at 30 yards. *Scope is tight, and no apparent
damage.

When sighting in a scope, does one aim at the bullseye, then adjust the
scope point towards the center. *IOW, I aim at the bullseye and hit high
right. *Do I adjust the screws DOWN and LEFT, or do I adjust UP and RIGHT?
Towards the strike point, or towards the bullseye?

I know this is a simple matter, but right now I'm stymied, and don't want to
waste another box.

I would, first, suggest that you stay at the same distance and keep
the scope aimed at one particular point. Note how widely the impact
points are dispersed (even if they do not hit where you aimed). This
would tell you how accurate is your rifle and scope combination.

[pet peeve]

The size or dispersion of the group suggests how _repeatable_ are the
rifle and shooter. _Accuracy_ is determined by how close the mean
point of impact is to the point of aim. I can shoot a five-shot group
so repeatably and with such precision that it leaves one ragged hole
10" away from the point of aim; it's very repeatable but entirely
inaccurate. Accuracy and repeatability are two completely different
animals.

[/pet peeve]

"BobH" wrote in message
...
On 01/25/2011 01:31 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Phil fired this volley in news:ihl89j
:

You adjust the scope to the strike point so in
your case up and
right.


But nobody has answered his question!

Most scope adjustment screws are marked as to "Left-Right" or "+ -". In
my limited experience, moving the screw in the "L" or "-" direction moves
the _strike_point_ left. So, if you were already shooting left of the
the crosshairs, you'd want to move the crew to "R" or "+".

For up/down, up is +.

LLoyd
The scopes that I have worked with (not many) have had one of the grad
lines correspond to 1" at 100 yards.

BobH

This one is labeled 1/4" @ 100 yds.

Steve

"Phil Kangas" wrote

I did answer his question! It's like dialing in a workpiece in a four jaw
chuck on the lathe. The spindle (barrel) is defining the path and the
chuck (scope) has no choice but to comply to it. Move the crosshairs
to the point of impact, not the other way around. It's a matter of
perspective IMHO. Seems to me only a couple of shots will tell you
if you are turning the screws the right way.

I think you got it, Phil.

I thought about this after posting.

When I am trying to understand something like this, I exaggerate it. Do I
bring my left pointer finger (the rifle barrel) to the strike point, or my
right pointer finger (the strike point) to the bullseye. It seems like I
can only approximate adjusting the strike point towards the bullseye, and
trying successive rounds. BUT, if I firmly prop the gun aimed at the strike
point, the crosshairs will actually move to the strike point.

This changes the whole thing from a trial and error proposition of many
shots and estimated clicks to an adjustment of the crosshairs until it comes
to the strike point, at which time, another trial round of shots is fired.

I have been wanting to make a rifle clamp for sitting out and doing long
range shots on squirrels, and this is the perfect excuse to make said tripod
and clamp.

Steve

On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 20:16:34 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:



Think of it this way, Steve. You can't do anything
to the barrel or
receiver to adjust them but you can adjust the
scope. Therefore,
aim for the bullseye first shot. Then adjust the
scope towards the
actual impact point. Fire again aiming at the
bullseye and see what
effect your adjustment had and turn it some more
for third shot.
The barrell is the true path and the scope is
adjusted to _it_.
You adjust the scope to the strike point so in
your case up and
right.

You need a pretty good bench rest to do this, because the rifle needs
to stay put while you're adjusting the scope. I'll suggest a slightly
different approach below.

A confusing factor here is that scopes, particularly inexpensive
scopes, don't always behave as expected. There can be cross-coupling
between az and el adjustments, and POI (point of impact) doesn't
always change as expected or as it should for a given tweak.

As someone else suggested, first see what size groups you, the rifle
and scope can make. If a 3-shot or 5-shot group is acceptably small,
then start homing in to zero with single shots. I do az and el
independently, one thing at a time. I've found that usually saves
both time and ammo in the long run.

If firing off of sandbags rather than a really stable bench rest,
rather than trying to visually dial the reticle to the POI I'd prefer
to dial in about 80% of expected correction in either az or el but not
both at once, fire 1 to n shots for effect (depends on how many you
need to be confident that the hole or group centroid are
representative), repeat until happy.

If your scope adjustments are 1/4 MOA per click (usual), that's 1/4"
per click at 100 yards or .075"" at 30 yards -- 13 clicks per inch at
30 yards. The knobs on most scopes are marked as to what direction
POI is moved for given direction of rotation. It's usually CCW for up
or right.

On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 21:22:20 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Phil Kangas" wrote

I did answer his question! It's like dialing in a workpiece in a four jaw
chuck on the lathe. The spindle (barrel) is defining the path and the
chuck (scope) has no choice but to comply to it. Move the crosshairs
to the point of impact, not the other way around. It's a matter of
perspective IMHO. Seems to me only a couple of shots will tell you
if you are turning the screws the right way.

I think you got it, Phil.

I thought about this after posting.

When I am trying to understand something like this, I exaggerate it. Do I
bring my left pointer finger (the rifle barrel) to the strike point, or my
right pointer finger (the strike point) to the bullseye. It seems like I
can only approximate adjusting the strike point towards the bullseye, and
trying successive rounds. BUT, if I firmly prop the gun aimed at the strike
point, the crosshairs will actually move to the strike point.

This changes the whole thing from a trial and error proposition of many
shots and estimated clicks to an adjustment of the crosshairs until it comes
to the strike point, at which time, another trial round of shots is fired.

I have been wanting to make a rifle clamp for sitting out and doing long
range shots on squirrels, and this is the perfect excuse to make said tripod
and clamp.

Steve

Benchrest shooters use something like this:
http://www.battenfeldtechnologies.co...roduct=Rock-BR

The price is absurd since you, being a metalworker, can make something
like this or probably better.

Sandbags suffice for a rear rest when shooting, but for 30 bux or so
the rabbit-ears Protektor works really well for zeroing scopes:
http://www.gunaccessories.com/Protek...l/RearBags.asp

Not sure what you mean by "long range" or if you're intent on
headshots to preserve meat. If you just want humane vermin
extermination at ranges of 100 yards and less, a bipod and a stool are
quite sufficient.

You want a rest, not a clamp. A clamp is a useful test fixture to
evaluate a rifle's ability to shoot small groups with given ammo and
without regard to sights, has no utility beyond that.

A rifle used by a rifleman to cleanly kill live targets needs to be
aimable in the same timeframe as the live targets might appear, move
and disappear. You need to be able to move your rifle enough to
accquire a sight picture of your target, then you need means to
steady your rifle so you can punch that sight picture with such
precision as opportunity, the rifle, ammo, scope and your read of
environmental variables permit.

Good hunting!

"Phil Kangas" fired this volley in news:ihlaj7$lti
:

I did answer his question! It's like dialing in a


No... his question was "which way do I turn the screws?" It seemed pretty
easy to tell without having someone have to tell him, but...

LLoyd

On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 15:50:45 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

I just blew through a box of .22 shells attempting to get my scope sighted
in. It went all over. I was at 30 yards. Scope is tight, and no apparent
damage.

Are you using a shooting rest or bench?


When sighting in a scope, does one aim at the bullseye, then adjust the
scope point towards the center. IOW, I aim at the bullseye and hit high
right. Do I adjust the screws DOWN and LEFT, or do I adjust UP and RIGHT?
Towards the strike point, or towards the bullseye?

Adjusting the scope down brings the aim up.
Adjusting the scope right brings the aim left.


I know this is a simple matter, but right now I'm stymied, and don't want to
waste another box.

Here ya go. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tv4BTH45Nmk

--
If you can solve your problem, then what is the need of worrying?
If you cannot solve it, then what is the use of worrying?
-- Shantideva

On Jan 24, 4:50*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
I just blew through a box of .22 shells attempting to get my scope sighted
in. *It went all over. *I was at 30 yards. *Scope is tight, and no apparent
damage.

When sighting in a scope, does one aim at the bullseye, then adjust the
scope point towards the center. *IOW, I aim at the bullseye and hit high
right. *Do I adjust the screws DOWN and LEFT, or do I adjust UP and RIGHT?
Towards the strike point, or towards the bullseye?

I know this is a simple matter, but right now I'm stymied, and don't want to
waste another box.

Steve

Not dumb. The scopes I have usually have an arrow with RIght and Up
on the knobs. To make the group move to the right, you spin it in the
direction of the arrow. for up, ditto. Sight-in targets are usually
crosses, I make them with a Sanford Magnum marker on the backs of
printer trash. So you put the crosshairs on the target's cross, then
move the group the direction you need to. Saves going through the
mental convolutions of what the scope is doing internally vs what's
happening with the bullets. If you got the scope new, there's usually
installation and sight-in directions in the box.

A laser bore sighter helps a lot with new scope installs, one like
this:
http://www.laserlyte.com/Laser_Bore_...S-1/MBS-1.html
I've gotten these on sale from the likes of Natchez Shooter's Supply
for less than half retail, wally world has had a stripped-down version
at times, too. Just spin the knobs on the scope to match the laser's
dot with the crosshairs at 30-40 yards or so. Get you very close,
usually not perfectly on, though.

From the sounds of it, you may need to get some better ammo. If you
still are all over the paper after a box of CCI standard velocity or
Mini Mags, then you've got a problem with the gun or scope. That
assumes you're shooting off a solid rest, not off-hand. One problem
that's seldom mentioned is the parallax setting of the scope. If it's
not a dedicated .22 or airgun scope, it's probably set for 100 yards
and you can get problems with parallax at shorter ranges. Means
larger groups if you aren't getting your head in the same spot all the
time. Some scopes have a parallax adjustment for range, most don't.


Stan

What I've done. Clamp the scope on the dove tail. Go out
about 25 yards, and put down a box with a big X on the box,
in magic marker. Note! I did not say a +, I said an X.

Using as stable a bench rest as I can, sight, in. When I've
got an 8 pointed X, squeeze off a round.

Go down, and look. Magic marker a circle around the bullet
hole. Screw the cap off the side of the scope. Use a coin to
adjust. If the shot hit too far right, and the scope says
R- then turn the inner screw three marks to the left,
typically rotate about 10 degrees of turn.

Back to the bench. Fire one more shot. Go down and look. Put
a magic marker circle around that hole. Compare the first
shot to the second. Did the second one get closer to the
left and right location of the center of the X? That tells
you the direction the bullet goes when you turn the screw
the direction you did. It either got closer, or farther.
Second shot also tells you how much movement for three
marks. If your bullet goes farther off, you may need to go 6
marks the other direction. If you're almost there, you may
need to go two more marks in the same direction.

Repeat this for up and down. It's not as dificult as it
seems.


--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I just blew through a box of .22 shells attempting to get my
scope sighted
in. It went all over. I was at 30 yards. Scope is tight,
and no apparent
damage.

When sighting in a scope, does one aim at the bullseye, then
adjust the
scope point towards the center. IOW, I aim at the bullseye
and hit high
right. Do I adjust the screws DOWN and LEFT, or do I adjust
UP and RIGHT?
Towards the strike point, or towards the bullseye?

I know this is a simple matter, but right now I'm stymied,
and don't want to
waste another box.

Steve

"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I just blew through a box of .22 shells attempting to get my scope sighted
in. It went all over. I was at 30 yards. Scope is tight, and no
apparent
damage.

When sighting in a scope, does one aim at the bullseye, then adjust the
scope point towards the center. IOW, I aim at the bullseye and hit high
right. Do I adjust the screws DOWN and LEFT, or do I adjust UP and RIGHT?
Towards the strike point, or towards the bullseye?

I know this is a simple matter, but right now I'm stymied, and don't want
to
waste another box.

Steve


I like to sandbag it on top of an old tree stump and then pop off a round
with the scope aimed dead center at the bullseye of a stationary target
that's located some calibrated distance away...

Afterwards, futz around as-needed to insure that your gun hasn't moved (
physically move the ****ing entire thing till the scope is once again dead
centered on the bullseye ) finally, and being very very careful not to bump
the gun barrel back out of position I will then adjust the scope till it's
crossjairs are centered upon the bullet hole in my target.

In reality though, and especially on a new scope installation I first simply
remove the bolt and visually sight down the bore hole with my eyeball before
fining off any rounds at all ( I have a barrel vise I made up years ago that
attaches semi-firmly into the stake pocket on any pickup truck) ...in any
event, only a single round is usually needed--but if your intent on doing
clusters then feel free to fire away--just don't forget to aim your scope to
the CENTER of the resulting cluster.