On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 20:16:34 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:



Think of it this way, Steve. You can't do anything
to the barrel or
receiver to adjust them but you can adjust the
scope. Therefore,
aim for the bullseye first shot. Then adjust the
scope towards the
actual impact point. Fire again aiming at the
bullseye and see what
effect your adjustment had and turn it some more
for third shot.
The barrell is the true path and the scope is
adjusted to _it_.
You adjust the scope to the strike point so in
your case up and
right.

You need a pretty good bench rest to do this, because the rifle needs
to stay put while you're adjusting the scope. I'll suggest a slightly
different approach below.

A confusing factor here is that scopes, particularly inexpensive
scopes, don't always behave as expected. There can be cross-coupling
between az and el adjustments, and POI (point of impact) doesn't
always change as expected or as it should for a given tweak.

As someone else suggested, first see what size groups you, the rifle
and scope can make. If a 3-shot or 5-shot group is acceptably small,
then start homing in to zero with single shots. I do az and el
independently, one thing at a time. I've found that usually saves
both time and ammo in the long run.

If firing off of sandbags rather than a really stable bench rest,
rather than trying to visually dial the reticle to the POI I'd prefer
to dial in about 80% of expected correction in either az or el but not
both at once, fire 1 to n shots for effect (depends on how many you
need to be confident that the hole or group centroid are
representative), repeat until happy.

If your scope adjustments are 1/4 MOA per click (usual), that's 1/4"
per click at 100 yards or .075"" at 30 yards -- 13 clicks per inch at
30 yards. The knobs on most scopes are marked as to what direction
POI is moved for given direction of rotation. It's usually CCW for up
or right.