The would belong on rec.crafts.plasticworking if there were such a
place... but hopefully this is close enough.

I'm trying to figure out how to saw through a 3 inch diameter solid
piece of tooling that I formed from polycaprolactone - re-usable beads
of plastic that soften in hot water then can be putty-knifed to
desired shapes then allowed to cool.

As expected for a low-temperature thermoplastic, it's pretty gummy and
likes to trap sawblades. I'm not getting much actual "chip" removal
with either a woodcutting hand miter saw or a hacksaw.

Contemplating either trying to find a cable saw I think I've seen
intended for pvc pipe, or small bow saw with offset teeth of the sort
used to cut a christmas tree, or just trying to rig up something with
a hot wire and melt my way through. The cut needs to be somewhat
regular so I can re-assemble the two halves with screws and shims in
the kerf for use, but it doesn't have to be perfectly planar.

Any suggestions?

My guess (precisely accurate definition) would be to try a bow saw, the kind
of blade with huge gullets between very long teeth, used to cut/trim
wet/green tree branches.
I wouldn't expect the surface finish to be pretty, but you may be able to
smooth the cut surfaces with a warm, flat spatula or similar item.

There are most likely different qualities of bow saw blades, so a
cheap/Chinese one from a discount or camping source may not be the best
indicator of the particular type of blade. The ones I've used have been the
cheap type, and they do work fairly well on green wood.. but then green wood
is generally wet.

The cutting action apparently needs to be very slow to avoid heating the
poly material.
You may need a cutting lubricant since a wide surface area of blade is in
contact with both sides of the material. I'd avoid most hydrocarbon/oil
liquids (not knowing what might affect the poly) and try a liquid soap,
possibly thinned with water.

I don't know about the cutting of this particular product (maybe molding the
parts would be easier), but with most plastics, the (heat) welding that
takes place behind/after the cutter or blade is generally a problem, as the
warm plastic essentially welds back together.

--
WB
..........


wrote in message
...
The would belong on rec.crafts.plasticworking if there were such a
place... but hopefully this is close enough.

I'm trying to figure out how to saw through a 3 inch diameter solid
piece of tooling that I formed from polycaprolactone - re-usable beads
of plastic that soften in hot water then can be putty-knifed to
desired shapes then allowed to cool.

As expected for a low-temperature thermoplastic, it's pretty gummy and
likes to trap sawblades. I'm not getting much actual "chip" removal
with either a woodcutting hand miter saw or a hacksaw.

Contemplating either trying to find a cable saw I think I've seen
intended for pvc pipe, or small bow saw with offset teeth of the sort
used to cut a christmas tree, or just trying to rig up something with
a hot wire and melt my way through. The cut needs to be somewhat
regular so I can re-assemble the two halves with screws and shims in
the kerf for use, but it doesn't have to be perfectly planar.

Any suggestions?

wrote:
The would belong on rec.crafts.plasticworking if there were such a
place... but hopefully this is close enough.

I'm trying to figure out how to saw through a 3 inch diameter solid
piece of tooling that I formed from polycaprolactone - re-usable beads
of plastic that soften in hot water then can be putty-knifed to
desired shapes then allowed to cool.

As expected for a low-temperature thermoplastic, it's pretty gummy and
likes to trap sawblades. I'm not getting much actual "chip" removal
with either a woodcutting hand miter saw or a hacksaw.

Contemplating either trying to find a cable saw I think I've seen
intended for pvc pipe, or small bow saw with offset teeth of the sort
used to cut a christmas tree, or just trying to rig up something with
a hot wire and melt my way through. The cut needs to be somewhat
regular so I can re-assemble the two halves with screws and shims in
the kerf for use, but it doesn't have to be perfectly planar.

Any suggestions?

If it is form able in hot water and then hardens why not just heat up a
piece of thin stainless stock and slice it like a cheese slicer. OR
since it seems to grab a blade and acts gummy why not try cutting it
with some braided fishing line That stuff acts like a razor if your not
careful handling it.

--
Steve W.

On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 19:02:39 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

The would belong on rec.crafts.plasticworking if there were such a
place... but hopefully this is close enough.

I'm trying to figure out how to saw through a 3 inch diameter solid
piece of tooling that I formed from polycaprolactone - re-usable beads
of plastic that soften in hot water then can be putty-knifed to
desired shapes then allowed to cool.

As expected for a low-temperature thermoplastic, it's pretty gummy and
likes to trap sawblades. I'm not getting much actual "chip" removal
with either a woodcutting hand miter saw or a hacksaw.

Contemplating either trying to find a cable saw I think I've seen
intended for pvc pipe, or small bow saw with offset teeth of the sort
used to cut a christmas tree, or just trying to rig up something with
a hot wire and melt my way through. The cut needs to be somewhat
regular so I can re-assemble the two halves with screws and shims in
the kerf for use, but it doesn't have to be perfectly planar.

Any suggestions?

You're not getting chips with a miter saw or hacksaw because the tooth
pitches are too fine. Fine pitch blades make dust rather than chips,
and gummy plastic isn't amenable to being converted to dust.

I think a bow saw might work well if you go slow and have an
accomplice keep the blade wet with a squirt bottle. I'd use water,
perhaps with some liquid detergent or ethylene glycol antrifreeze
added. Antifreeze has good lubricity and rust inhibitors. Cut on the
pull, less so on the push.

You want the teeth of the cutter to shave or plane chips, which
implies a coarse pitch with some set to the teeth, and you want to
keep the material cool to minimize gumminess.

I might try cutting it with my bandsaw. I'd set it on the slowest
metal-cutting speed but use a very coarse pitch woodcutting blade. I
think the bow saw is more likely to succeed, particularly since I
don't have a low-pitch woodcutting blade for my bandsaw.

I'll bet a K'Zoo horizontal bandsaw with a 1" wide coarse-pitch blade
with some set, run at slow speed with aqueous coolant fed to the cut,
would do a superb job.

Or, ya bring it to Minnesota, clamp it to a stump and have a coupla
guys have at it with a Swede saw when it's up to -10 so they don't
need yackets that get in the way. It's staying daylight till after 5
now awready and da skeeters haven't been any problem lately.

wrote:

The would belong on rec.crafts.plasticworking if there were such a
place... but hopefully this is close enough.

I'm trying to figure out how to saw through a 3 inch diameter solid
piece of tooling that I formed from polycaprolactone - re-usable beads
of plastic that soften in hot water then can be putty-knifed to
desired shapes then allowed to cool.

As expected for a low-temperature thermoplastic, it's pretty gummy and
likes to trap sawblades. I'm not getting much actual "chip" removal
with either a woodcutting hand miter saw or a hacksaw.

Contemplating either trying to find a cable saw I think I've seen
intended for pvc pipe, or small bow saw with offset teeth of the sort
used to cut a christmas tree, or just trying to rig up something with
a hot wire and melt my way through. The cut needs to be somewhat
regular so I can re-assemble the two halves with screws and shims in
the kerf for use, but it doesn't have to be perfectly planar.

Any suggestions?

How about, put it in the freezer, or submerge it in a bucket of LN2,
and cut it with a coping saw? If it's soft when it's warm, doesn't
it get stiff when it's cold?

Or warm up the whole thing and cut it with a hot putty knife, which
I think Don suggested.

Good Luck!
Rich

On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 19:02:39 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

The would belong on rec.crafts.plasticworking if there were such a
place... but hopefully this is close enough.

I'm trying to figure out how to saw through a 3 inch diameter solid
piece of tooling that I formed from polycaprolactone - re-usable beads
of plastic that soften in hot water then can be putty-knifed to
desired shapes then allowed to cool.

As expected for a low-temperature thermoplastic, it's pretty gummy and
likes to trap sawblades. I'm not getting much actual "chip" removal
with either a woodcutting hand miter saw or a hacksaw.

Contemplating either trying to find a cable saw I think I've seen
intended for pvc pipe, or small bow saw with offset teeth of the sort
used to cut a christmas tree, or just trying to rig up something with
a hot wire and melt my way through. The cut needs to be somewhat
regular so I can re-assemble the two halves with screws and shims in
the kerf for use, but it doesn't have to be perfectly planar.

Any suggestions?

Agree with all the suggestions to use a courser blade. (Disagree on the one to
go slow. I think wide a** open will work better.)

Never used polycaprolactone but if it is similar to polyethylene (or even
Teflon) in machineability then I would head to the chop saw with a carbide
blade first. Assuming that the 3" round is long enough to hold safely of
course...
--
William

On Jan 16, 8:02*pm, "
wrote:
The would belong on rec.crafts.plasticworking if there were such a
place... but hopefully this is close enough.

I'm trying to figure out how to saw through a 3 inch diameter solid
piece of tooling that I formed from polycaprolactone - re-usable beads
of plastic that soften in hot water then can be putty-knifed to
desired shapes then allowed to cool.

As expected for a low-temperature thermoplastic, it's pretty gummy and
likes to trap sawblades. *I'm not getting much actual "chip" removal
with either a woodcutting hand miter saw or a hacksaw.

Contemplating either trying to find a cable saw I think I've seen
intended for pvc pipe, or small bow saw with offset teeth of the sort
used to cut a christmas tree, or just trying to rig up something with
a hot wire and melt my way through. *The cut needs to be somewhat
regular so I can re-assemble the two halves with screws and shims in
the kerf for use, but it doesn't have to be perfectly planar.

Any suggestions?

How about a regular wood-cutting panel saw? They're kind of out of
style but can be had cheap at garage sales and the like. 5-6 tpi
should get you some chips, use some beeswax on the blade for lube.
Will get you a straghter cut than one of those cable saws. Or if you
just gotta spend some cash, one of those coarser cut Jap pull-saws
will do it.

Stan

On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 19:02:39 -0800, wrote:

The would belong on rec.crafts.plasticworking if there were such a
place... but hopefully this is close enough.

I'm trying to figure out how to saw through a 3 inch diameter solid
piece of tooling that I formed from polycaprolactone - re-usable beads
of plastic that soften in hot water then can be putty-knifed to desired
shapes then allowed to cool.

As expected for a low-temperature thermoplastic, it's pretty gummy and
likes to trap sawblades. I'm not getting much actual "chip" removal
with either a woodcutting hand miter saw or a hacksaw.

Contemplating either trying to find a cable saw I think I've seen
intended for pvc pipe, or small bow saw with offset teeth of the sort
used to cut a christmas tree, or just trying to rig up something with a
hot wire and melt my way through. The cut needs to be somewhat regular
so I can re-assemble the two halves with screws and shims in the kerf
for use, but it doesn't have to be perfectly planar.

Any suggestions?

Take it outside and let it get Really Cold, then try sawing it? Or if
you live down south, chuck it in the freezer for a while?

--
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Steve W. wrote:

wrote:
The would belong on rec.crafts.plasticworking if there were such a
place... but hopefully this is close enough.

I'm trying to figure out how to saw through a 3 inch diameter solid
piece of tooling that I formed from polycaprolactone - re-usable beads
of plastic that soften in hot water then can be putty-knifed to
desired shapes then allowed to cool.

As expected for a low-temperature thermoplastic, it's pretty gummy and
likes to trap sawblades. I'm not getting much actual "chip" removal
with either a woodcutting hand miter saw or a hacksaw.

Contemplating either trying to find a cable saw I think I've seen
intended for pvc pipe, or small bow saw with offset teeth of the sort
used to cut a christmas tree, or just trying to rig up something with
a hot wire and melt my way through. The cut needs to be somewhat
regular so I can re-assemble the two halves with screws and shims in
the kerf for use, but it doesn't have to be perfectly planar.

Any suggestions?

If it is form able in hot water and then hardens why not just heat up a
piece of thin stainless stock and slice it like a cheese slicer. OR
since it seems to grab a blade and acts gummy why not try cutting it
with some braided fishing line That stuff acts like a razor if your not
careful handling it.

Or a wire, like an actual cheese slicer?

Cheers!
Rich

Don Foreman wrote:



Or, ya bring it to Minnesota, clamp it to a stump and have a coupla
guys have at it with a Swede saw when it's up to -10 so they don't
need yackets that get in the way. It's staying daylight till after 5
now awready and da skeeters haven't been any problem lately.

Swede saw? Is that what the Norwegians are using these days to deal
with the Swedes?

Thanks all - I end up getting through the polycaprolactone with a
cheap and not very sharp 12" bow saw - 8 bucks for a combo kit with
the bow saw blade and a hack saw blade.

And all I really wanted was the blade, as in the end I found it worked
better in a halfway decent hacksaw frame. It also worked better when
cool.

But now I have a light duty larger throat frame for hacksaw blades.

On Jan 16, 11:09*pm, "Wild_Bill" wrote:
My guess (precisely accurate definition) would be to try a bow saw, the kind
of blade with huge gullets between very long teeth, used to cut/trim
wet/green tree branches.
I wouldn't expect the surface finish to be pretty, but you may be able to
smooth the cut surfaces with a warm, flat spatula or similar item.

There are most likely different qualities of bow saw blades, so a
cheap/Chinese one from a discount or camping source may not be the best
indicator of the particular type of blade. The ones I've used have been the
cheap type, and they do work fairly well on green wood.. but then green wood
is generally wet.

The cutting action apparently needs to be very slow to avoid heating the
poly material.
You may need a cutting lubricant since a wide surface area of blade is in
contact with both sides of the material. I'd avoid most hydrocarbon/oil
liquids (not knowing what might affect the poly) and try a liquid soap,
possibly thinned with water.

I don't know about the cutting of this particular product (maybe molding the
parts would be easier), but with most plastics, the (heat) welding that
takes place behind/after the cutter or blade is generally a problem, as the
warm plastic essentially welds back together.

--
WB
.........

wrote in message

...

The would belong on rec.crafts.plasticworking if there were such a
place... but hopefully this is close enough.

I'm trying to figure out how to saw through a 3 inch diameter solid
piece of tooling that I formed from polycaprolactone - re-usable beads
of plastic that soften in hot water then can be putty-knifed to
desired shapes then allowed to cool.

As expected for a low-temperature thermoplastic, it's pretty gummy and
likes to trap sawblades. *I'm not getting much actual "chip" removal
with either a woodcutting hand miter saw or a hacksaw.

Contemplating either trying to find a cable saw I think I've seen
intended for pvc pipe, or small bow saw with offset teeth of the sort
used to cut a christmas tree, or just trying to rig up something with
a hot wire and melt my way through. *The cut needs to be somewhat
regular so I can re-assemble the two halves with screws and shims in
the kerf for use, but it doesn't have to be perfectly planar.

Any suggestions?

On Mon, 17 Jan 2011 14:06:11 -0800 (PST), RS at work
wrote:



Don Foreman wrote:



Or, ya bring it to Minnesota, clamp it to a stump and have a coupla
guys have at it with a Swede saw when it's up to -10 so they don't
need yackets that get in the way. It's staying daylight till after 5
now awready and da skeeters haven't been any problem lately.

Swede saw? Is that what the Norwegians are using these days to deal
with the Swedes?

http://forums.equipped.org/ubbthread...&Number=197395