I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1
spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any
instruction on putting the IDC end on?


50 conductor cable
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905

IDC socket
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308


Karl

On 10/21/2010 03:49 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1
spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any
instruction on putting the IDC end on?


50 conductor cable
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905

IDC socket
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308


Karl

The cable you link to has a pretty confusing picture, but I am guessing
from the description that this is the stuff that when you strip the
jacket and unroll it, it works like regular ribbon cable. if you don't
need the compact nature or shield, ordinary ribbon cable is a lot
cheaper. You can crimp the connectors in a vise. You may want to get
the strain relief pieces for the connector, they help the connection to
last longer.

Jon

On 10/21/2010 01:49 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1
spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any
instruction on putting the IDC end on?


50 conductor cable
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905

IDC socket
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308

If you're only doing a few check Digi-Key and Mouser -- they may have
better price and availability on small quantities.

Depending on how you're going to use the cable you may also want to get
the strain reliever and the pull tab. The strain reliever loops the
cable around the back of the connector so a tug on the cable doesn't
pull on the connections. The pull tab is a string or a loop of plastic
that goes under the strain reliever and lets you pull on the connector
body without upsetting the connections. Decent computer cables use both
-- the one for when you pull on a disk without remembering to unhook the
cable, the other for when you unhook the cable.

To stomp the connector on the cable you want to align the cable on the
connections, then press everything together with a pair of flat and
parallel somethings. Different connectors differ in detail, but most of
them let you put the connector together "one click" (or ship the
connector that way), which allows just enough room to put the cable in
and inspect to make sure that the tines of the IDC connector are lined
up right. I hold the connector lightly in a portable vise, then get the
cable put in so that it looks good, then tighten the vise. Amphenol
will sell you a special tool to do this, it costs about a bazillion
dollars, and to my knowledge doesn't work any better than a vise or an
arbor press with the right set of jaws.

To be thorough, check the cable to make sure that each wire is connected
from end to end, and isn't connected to it's neighbors (i.e. check pin
11 against pins 10 and 12). You can reduce the need to check, and
increase the reliability of the cable, but sticking to name-brand
hardware like Amphenol or 3M (I have never, ever gone wrong with 3M).

Make sure that you're connecting pin 1 to wire 1, and that the wire
exits the connector on the correct side (check twice if you're using
strain reliefs, as this swaps the side of the connector that the wire
exits from).

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

Tim Wescott wrote:

On 10/21/2010 01:49 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1
spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any
instruction on putting the IDC end on?


50 conductor cable
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905

IDC socket
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308

If you're only doing a few check Digi-Key and Mouser -- they may have
better price and availability on small quantities.

Depending on how you're going to use the cable you may also want to get
the strain reliever and the pull tab. The strain reliever loops the
cable around the back of the connector so a tug on the cable doesn't
pull on the connections. The pull tab is a string or a loop of plastic
that goes under the strain reliever and lets you pull on the connector
body without upsetting the connections. Decent computer cables use both
-- the one for when you pull on a disk without remembering to unhook the
cable, the other for when you unhook the cable.

To stomp the connector on the cable you want to align the cable on the
connections, then press everything together with a pair of flat and
parallel somethings. Different connectors differ in detail, but most of
them let you put the connector together "one click" (or ship the
connector that way), which allows just enough room to put the cable in
and inspect to make sure that the tines of the IDC connector are lined
up right. I hold the connector lightly in a portable vise, then get the
cable put in so that it looks good, then tighten the vise. Amphenol
will sell you a special tool to do this, it costs about a bazillion
dollars, and to my knowledge doesn't work any better than a vise or an
arbor press with the right set of jaws.

To be thorough, check the cable to make sure that each wire is connected
from end to end, and isn't connected to it's neighbors (i.e. check pin
11 against pins 10 and 12). You can reduce the need to check, and
increase the reliability of the cable, but sticking to name-brand
hardware like Amphenol or 3M (I have never, ever gone wrong with 3M).

Make sure that you're connecting pin 1 to wire 1, and that the wire
exits the connector on the correct side (check twice if you're using
strain reliefs, as this swaps the side of the connector that the wire
exits from).

Additionally, last I looked, Digi-Key had these cables available
pre-made in standard lengths and possible custom lengths as well.

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 15:49:01 -0500, Karl Townsend wrote:

I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1 spacing.
I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any instruction on
putting the IDC end on?


50 conductor cable
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905

IDC socket
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308

That cable URL mentions bulk termination but it isn't clear how far
apart the flat sections are, where you can attach an IDC connector.
Consider plain flat cable like at following URL, if you don't need round.
http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat_id=306&sku=32262

Do you actually have to make the cables yourself? Standard SCSI 1
and SCSI 2 cables with 50-pin IDC connectors aren't expensive. See
http://www.ramelectronics.net/computer-parts/scsi/scsi-cables-internal/round-internal-scsi-cables-50-pin/50-pin-3-drive-scsi-ii-cable/prodSCSIR.html
(URL on one line), http://www.cablemakers.com/flat-50-pin-internal-scsi-cables.htm, and
http://www.computercablesource.com/50-pin-internal-single-ended-scsi-cables-250.html.

--
jiw

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 16:53:44 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Tim Wescott wrote:

On 10/21/2010 01:49 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1
spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any
instruction on putting the IDC end on?


50 conductor cable
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905

IDC socket
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308

If you're only doing a few check Digi-Key and Mouser -- they may have
better price and availability on small quantities.

Depending on how you're going to use the cable you may also want to get
the strain reliever and the pull tab. The strain reliever loops the
cable around the back of the connector so a tug on the cable doesn't
pull on the connections. The pull tab is a string or a loop of plastic
that goes under the strain reliever and lets you pull on the connector
body without upsetting the connections. Decent computer cables use both
-- the one for when you pull on a disk without remembering to unhook the
cable, the other for when you unhook the cable.

To stomp the connector on the cable you want to align the cable on the
connections, then press everything together with a pair of flat and
parallel somethings. Different connectors differ in detail, but most of
them let you put the connector together "one click" (or ship the
connector that way), which allows just enough room to put the cable in
and inspect to make sure that the tines of the IDC connector are lined
up right. I hold the connector lightly in a portable vise, then get the
cable put in so that it looks good, then tighten the vise. Amphenol
will sell you a special tool to do this, it costs about a bazillion
dollars, and to my knowledge doesn't work any better than a vise or an
arbor press with the right set of jaws.

To be thorough, check the cable to make sure that each wire is connected
from end to end, and isn't connected to it's neighbors (i.e. check pin
11 against pins 10 and 12). You can reduce the need to check, and
increase the reliability of the cable, but sticking to name-brand
hardware like Amphenol or 3M (I have never, ever gone wrong with 3M).

Make sure that you're connecting pin 1 to wire 1, and that the wire
exits the connector on the correct side (check twice if you're using
strain reliefs, as this swaps the side of the connector that the wire
exits from).

Additionally, last I looked, Digi-Key had these cables available
pre-made in standard lengths and possible custom lengths as well.

Thanks, everybody, for the advice. I hope i didn't miss it on
digikey. I used the flat ribbon on my last refit and its an awful mess
plus not sheilded. Another fella that does camsoft refits suggested
this. So, i just dropped two bills on a lifetime+ supply.

Karl

On Oct 21, 1:49*pm, Karl Townsend
wrote:
I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1
spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any
instruction on putting the IDC end on?

Karl

As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you.
half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the
signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys
and hard drives in you computer.

So how long do you need the cables?

Bob AZ

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 22:39:56 +0000 (UTC), James Waldby
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 15:49:01 -0500, Karl Townsend wrote:

I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1 spacing.
I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any instruction on
putting the IDC end on?


50 conductor cable
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905

IDC socket
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308

That cable URL mentions bulk termination but it isn't clear how far
apart the flat sections are, where you can attach an IDC connector.
Consider plain flat cable like at following URL, if you don't need round.
http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat_id=306&sku=32262

Do you actually have to make the cables yourself? Standard SCSI 1
and SCSI 2 cables with 50-pin IDC connectors aren't expensive. See
http://www.ramelectronics.net/computer-parts/scsi/scsi-cables-internal/round-internal-scsi-cables-50-pin/50-pin-3-drive-scsi-ii-cable/prodSCSIR.html
(URL on one line), http://www.cablemakers.com/flat-50-pin-internal-scsi-cables.htm, and
http://www.computercablesource.com/50-pin-internal-single-ended-scsi-cables-250.html.

Damned good price, wish they were longer. I'll keep this link for
other's doing a camsoft refit. Thanks karl

As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you.
half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the
signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys
and hard drives in you computer.

So how long do you need the cables?

Bob AZ

You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and
make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs
the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get
it outside the case. But, now I'll have to look for a male connector,
surely no big deal.

My runs will be from six to eight feet. They are alongside a lot of
other wires, so sheilding and round are important.

Karl


karl

On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you.
half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the
signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys
and hard drives in you computer.

So how long do you need the cables?

Bob AZ

You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and
make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs
the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get
it outside the case.

!!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big deal. !!!!

Don't count on that, but good luck!

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 16:53:44 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Tim Wescott wrote:

On 10/21/2010 01:49 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1
spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any
instruction on putting the IDC end on?


50 conductor cable
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905

IDC socket
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308

If you're only doing a few check Digi-Key and Mouser -- they may have
better price and availability on small quantities.

Depending on how you're going to use the cable you may also want to get
the strain reliever and the pull tab. The strain reliever loops the
cable around the back of the connector so a tug on the cable doesn't
pull on the connections. The pull tab is a string or a loop of plastic
that goes under the strain reliever and lets you pull on the connector
body without upsetting the connections. Decent computer cables use both
-- the one for when you pull on a disk without remembering to unhook the
cable, the other for when you unhook the cable.

To stomp the connector on the cable you want to align the cable on the
connections, then press everything together with a pair of flat and
parallel somethings. Different connectors differ in detail, but most of
them let you put the connector together "one click" (or ship the
connector that way), which allows just enough room to put the cable in
and inspect to make sure that the tines of the IDC connector are lined
up right. I hold the connector lightly in a portable vise, then get the
cable put in so that it looks good, then tighten the vise. Amphenol
will sell you a special tool to do this, it costs about a bazillion
dollars, and to my knowledge doesn't work any better than a vise or an
arbor press with the right set of jaws.

To be thorough, check the cable to make sure that each wire is connected
from end to end, and isn't connected to it's neighbors (i.e. check pin
11 against pins 10 and 12). You can reduce the need to check, and
increase the reliability of the cable, but sticking to name-brand
hardware like Amphenol or 3M (I have never, ever gone wrong with 3M).

Make sure that you're connecting pin 1 to wire 1, and that the wire
exits the connector on the correct side (check twice if you're using
strain reliefs, as this swaps the side of the connector that the wire
exits from).

Additionally, last I looked, Digi-Key had these cables available
pre-made in standard lengths and possible custom lengths as well.

Thanks, everybody, for the advice. I hope i didn't miss it on
digikey. I used the flat ribbon on my last refit and its an awful mess
plus not sheilded. Another fella that does camsoft refits suggested
this. So, i just dropped two bills on a lifetime+ supply.

Karl

Being a former engineer for the company that used more flat cable than
anyone else in the world that we knew of. System Industries and we were the
largest 2nd source for disk subsystems for DEC. You can install the IDC
connector with a vise. Just be careful that the cable is lined up
correctly. Some of the connectors with the metal end tabs were a little
easier to line up.

Bob AZ wrote:

So how long do you need the cables?

He probably wants to keep them. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

Karl Townsend wrote:

As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you.
half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the
signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys
and hard drives in you computer.

So how long do you need the cables?

You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and
make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs
the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get
it outside the case. But, now I'll have to look for a male connector,
surely no big deal.

Assuming you're going to a PCB, look up "header".

Good Luck!
Rich

John G wrote:
Tim Wescott used his keyboard to write :
On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you.
half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the
signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys
and hard drives in you computer.

So how long do you need the cables?

You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and
make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs
the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get
it outside the case.

!!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big
deal. !!!!

Don't count on that, but good luck!

This may seem very basic but I have seen it ignored.

Ribbon cables are very fragile and should never be used "outside the
box".
They are great between fixed components, eg. disk drives inside
computers but it does not take much physical activity to fracture a
wire or 2.

Depends on how ham-fisted your customers are. I once worked on a commercial
product that had 24" ribbon cables out the back with a DIP plug at the end.

They're OK, as long as you don't use them to tow a car or whatever. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 17:32:27 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you.
half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the
signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys
and hard drives in you computer.

So how long do you need the cables?

Bob AZ

You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and
make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs
the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get
it outside the case.

!!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big deal. !!!!

Don't count on that, but good luck!
From what I remember there are male to male adapters that fit between
female ends of ribbon cable connectors - ore used to be.

But CalesOnLine has Item # FC-150 for $250 each.
Computercableinc has them for $7.50 each. Part # CON-IDC-50M

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 20:08:21 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 17:32:27 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you.
half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the
signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys
and hard drives in you computer.

So how long do you need the cables?

Bob AZ

You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and
make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs
the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get
it outside the case.

!!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big deal. !!!!

Don't count on that, but good luck!

Yea, I've been surfing digikey for over 1/2 hour and can't find one.
maybe i don't know what to call it.

Karl
50 pin male idc connector - don't know if Digi carries them but I just
posted 2 sources - one very reasonable, the other moderately pricy,
but certainly not bad compared to what I remember paying for themabout
30 years ago!!!!!!!

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 21:42:30 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 20:08:21 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 17:32:27 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you.
half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the
signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys
and hard drives in you computer.

So how long do you need the cables?

Bob AZ

You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and
make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs
the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get
it outside the case.

!!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big deal. !!!!

Don't count on that, but good luck!

Yea, I've been surfing digikey for over 1/2 hour and can't find one.
maybe i don't know what to call it.

Karl
50 pin male idc connector - don't know if Digi carries them but I just
posted 2 sources - one very reasonable, the other moderately pricy,
but certainly not bad compared to what I remember paying for themabout
30 years ago!!!!!!!

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...9087571 79705

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...9087571 79705

Not sure what I'm looking at. Either of these right?

Karl

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 21:40:18 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 17:32:27 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you.
half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the
signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys
and hard drives in you computer.

So how long do you need the cables?

Bob AZ

You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and
make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs
the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get
it outside the case.

!!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big deal. !!!!

Don't count on that, but good luck!
From what I remember there are male to male adapters that fit between
female ends of ribbon cable connectors - ore used to be.

But CalesOnLine has Item # FC-150 for $250 each.
Computercableinc has them for $7.50 each. Part # CON-IDC-50M

yea, that should work. i found a couple at digikey too.

Thanks

karl

On Oct 21, 1:49*pm, Karl Townsend
wrote:
I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1
spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any
instruction on putting the IDC end on?

50 conductor cablehttp://www.alliedelec.com/search/searchresults.aspx?N=0&Ntk=Primary&N...

IDC sockethttp://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=5182308

Karl

We used to make those all the time. The ribbon cable has a colored
strand so you don't turn the cable over by chance and get the
connector reversed.

Just cut to length and use a 1 ton arbor press with a foot that is at
least as long as the connector and press the connector through the
cable and into the cover. Cover will snap in place.

I think I could even do it!

Paul

On Oct 21, 10:15*pm, Karl Townsend
wrote:
...

!!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big deal. *!!!!

Don't count on that, but good luck!
From what I remember there are male to male adapters that fit between
female ends of ribbon cable connectors - ore used to be.

But CalesOnLine has Item # FC-150 for $250 each.
Computercableinc has them for $7.50 each. Part # CON-IDC-50M

yea, that should work. i found a couple at digikey too.

karl

You can plug two ribbon cables into a section of wirewrap header to
join them. That will cross the odd and even rows, but a second header
and cable will cross them back again.

If you get the 3M connectors watch out for a flange meant to stop the
cut end of the cable.

When I don't have a press or smooth-jawed vise available I push the
ribbon cable onto the split pins with my thumbnails. That also works
well when I have to separate the wires and rearrange them, such as to
swap the even and odd rows.

jsw

wrote:

From what I remember there are male to male adapters that fit between
female ends of ribbon cable connectors - ore used to be.


Header connectors on .1" * .1".

That changes the wiring pattern, though. The odd row becomes the
even row (and vice versa), if you don't use a pair of them and a short
cable to make a double transition. I had to do that in some test
fixtures I built, to allow for fast repairs on the test bench.


--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

On 2010-10-21, Karl Townsend wrote:
I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1
spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any
instruction on putting the IDC end on?


50 conductor cable
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905

Interesting -- flat cable bundled up into a round jacket. That
is convenient.

But you may (or may not) want/need to terminate the shield shown
in the details of the cable. It will not normally connect to any pins
in the connector.

IDC socket
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308

O.K. That one has a single bar on the back to force the wires
over the pins, which are typically a two-petaled tulip which penetrates
the insulation on either side of the pin, and then cuts in to make
contact with the wires.

There are usually optional secondary bars to handle the stress
if you unplug and re-plug frequently.

Anyway:

1) Get a few spare connectors.

2) Be careful that the connector is truly at right angles to the
cable. If at an angle, the spacing of the pins won't match the
spacing of the wires, and you will wind up with adjacent wires
shorted by the pins where they punch through.

3) You can squeeze the connector onto the cable using a good vise
with parallel jaws. Some styles need notches in the pusher bar
to clear pins which guide and lock the strain relief (e.g. T&B
Ansley blue-ribbon style (commonly mis-called Centronics style)
connectors.

And ideally, you have a lever which moves the pusher bar down to
a specific height, and the connector body in a guide holding it
at the right height for the pusher bar.

4) Be sure to get the same edge of the cable (either a different
color stripe, or a brown wire (for multiples of ten wires, start
on brown, end on black) lined up with the marked pin-1 end of
the connector (usually a triangle on one side) so the same wire
becomes pin 1 on each side. If that happens, the rest are all
correct.

If you have a lot of these to do -- mill a slot in a block of
aluminum just the right width to hold the connector upright -- and with
a second milled slot just wide enough to accept the keying bump in the
center of the connector. Make the depth of the slot just right (and the
thickness of the aluminum block too) so the dimension from the bottom of
the block to the top of a fully crimped connector is 1.000", and set up
something like a small arbor press with a cross bar to close down to
1.000" height. (Perhaps have the bar longer than the connector-support
block, with 1.000" high blocks on either side to stop the stroke of the
pusher bar.

If you are making it only for a single width of connector (e.g.
your 50 pin ones), mill an extra thickness to at least one side of the
ribbon to hold it lined up while you crimp. Otherwise, make and
adjustable bar for the guide function.

And -- it would be helpful to have another bar for the press,
which carries a steel blade to cut across the full width of the ribbon
cable in one cut. This makes it easier to get things started into the
connector and lined up square. I've actually got two presses from
hamfests. One (the cheaper one) I keep set up with the blade only. The
other (a T&B Ansley press) I have a full set of pusher bars (notched and
not as needed) and a full set of blocks to support the connectors at the
right height. The Blue-ribbon style, and the DB-25, DD-50, DE-9 DA-15,
require the notched pusher bar. And -- the connector goes fully through
the support (which is a U-shaped slot milled in it) and rests on the
bottom, so it uses the full 1" height -- plus the clearance in the
notched pusher bar.

The pusher has an adjustment stop, which when set at '0', closes
to 1.000" precisely. At other settings it is a bit higher, corresponding
to the needs of the connector in question.

The reason for the height and support is so the connector is
not crushed by the press. If using a vise -- be very careful to not
over-do it.

Good Luck,
DoN.

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On 2010-10-22, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 17:32:27 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

[ ... ]

!!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big deal. !!!!

Don't count on that, but good luck!

Yea, I've been surfing digikey for over 1/2 hour and can't find one.
maybe i don't know what to call it.

They are made -- but designed to mount to panels.

Or male connectors are for printed circuit board mounting.

I used to be able to find the male bulkhead connectors, but it
has been a long time since I last looked for them. I used to find them
at hamfests for somewhat improved prices.

Digikey is perhaps not the place to look for that one. Try also
Newark, Allied, and Mouser.

"Male IDC connectors".

BTW There also is shielded flat cable -- with rather tough jackets.

Good luck,
DoN.

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Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 18:33:39 -0700, Rich Grise
wrote:

Bob AZ wrote:

So how long do you need the cables?

He probably wants to keep them. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich


ROFLMAO!!!


I am the Sword of my Family
and the Shield of my Nation.
If sent, I will crush everything you have built,
burn everything you love,
and kill every one of you.
(Hebrew quote)

On Oct 21, 2:49*pm, Karl Townsend
wrote:
I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1
spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any
instruction on putting the IDC end on?

50 conductor cablehttp://www.alliedelec.com/search/searchresults.aspx?N=0&Ntk=Primary&N...

IDC sockethttp://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=5182308

Karl

I used to make these up customized for my SCSI cabinets. In SCSI
service, every other wire is a ground, so the ribbbon cable is
shielded that way rather than with wonking big braided covers. You
can also get higher speed stuff that has pairs twisted every few
inches in the flat stuff, usually narrower than the 50 wire ribbons,
though. I have run across really old ribbons that had external
shielding, very heavy stuff and would be hard to squeeze IDCs onto.

You can get bulkhead connectors for Centronics, I wouldn't consider
those for a shop environment. Usual practice on the big computer
systems was to run ribbon up to the bulkhead, then go with a D-
connector externally with round rubber-covered and shielded twisted
pair cable, either soldered or crimped to the connectors. Had a lot
better abrasion resistance when dragging it under the flooring.

I had a plastic gizmo for squeezing IDCs, was just a nest for for the
front part and a guided plate for the rear. Could be used in a small
arbor press or a smooth-jawed vise. Important to get the ribbon
square with the connector before squeezing, one edge of the ribbon
will be striped, this matches up with an arrow molded someplace on the
end of the connector or number "1". Go easy on the pressure, it
doesn't take a lot and some makes of connectors can fracture if over-
squeezed. Then you get to slice off the dud and start over. You can
get strain reliefs and ribbon for same for pulling the connector,
highly recommended if you ever expect to get back into the thing at
any time.

Stan

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 21:02:44 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 21:42:30 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 20:08:21 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 17:32:27 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you.
half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the
signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys
and hard drives in you computer.

So how long do you need the cables?

Bob AZ

You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and
make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs
the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get
it outside the case.

!!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big deal. !!!!

Don't count on that, but good luck!

Yea, I've been surfing digikey for over 1/2 hour and can't find one.
maybe i don't know what to call it.

Karl
50 pin male idc connector - don't know if Digi carries them but I just
posted 2 sources - one very reasonable, the other moderately pricy,
but certainly not bad compared to what I remember paying for themabout
30 years ago!!!!!!!

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...9087571 79705

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...9087571 79705

Not sure what I'm looking at. Either of these right?

Karl
Both links "bounced"

On 2010-10-22, wrote:
On Oct 21, 2:49*pm, Karl Townsend
wrote:
I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1
spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any
instruction on putting the IDC end on?

50 conductor cablehttp://www.alliedelec.com/search/searchresults.aspx?N=0&Ntk=Primary&N...

IDC sockethttp://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=5182308

Karl

I used to make these up customized for my SCSI cabinets. In SCSI
service, every other wire is a ground, so the ribbbon cable is
shielded that way rather than with wonking big braided covers. You
can also get higher speed stuff that has pairs twisted every few
inches in the flat stuff, usually narrower than the 50 wire ribbons,
though.

I've got some twisted pair ribbons at 60 pin width -- with a
breakout to straight every 12" for crimping an IDC connector on IIRC.

I have run across really old ribbons that had external
shielding, very heavy stuff and would be hard to squeeze IDCs onto.

You could not squeeze an IDC onto those -- if you mean the black
jacketed ones. But you could strip the jacket, and then roll back the
shielding screening and make external connections from those to ground,
while you crimped an IDC onto the then exposed ribbon cable.

You can get bulkhead connectors for Centronics, I wouldn't consider
those for a shop environment. Usual practice on the big computer
systems was to run ribbon up to the bulkhead, then go with a D-
connector externally with round rubber-covered and shielded twisted
pair cable, either soldered or crimped to the connectors. Had a lot
better abrasion resistance when dragging it under the flooring.

Agreed!

I had a plastic gizmo for squeezing IDCs, was just a nest for for the
front part and a guided plate for the rear. Could be used in a small
arbor press or a smooth-jawed vise. Important to get the ribbon
square with the connector before squeezing, one edge of the ribbon
will be striped, this matches up with an arrow molded someplace on the
end of the connector or number "1". Go easy on the pressure, it
doesn't take a lot and some makes of connectors can fracture if over-
squeezed. Then you get to slice off the dud and start over. You can
get strain reliefs and ribbon for same for pulling the connector,
highly recommended if you ever expect to get back into the thing at
any time.

One of the hobby makers, Vector I think, made a set of presser
bars and nests which could be used either in a vise, or in their wimpy
(sub 1-ton) arbor press. They also had special presser bars which could
be used to put a single row of wire-wrap pins into a perfboard at at
time. These held the square pins all parallel to the axis, so two rows
of them would fit an IDC connector.

Looks as though they have gone to much more expensive ways to do
things now. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Rich Grise wrote:
John G wrote:
Tim Wescott used his keyboard to write :
On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you.
half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the
signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys
and hard drives in you computer.

So how long do you need the cables?

You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and
make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs
the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get
it outside the case.

!!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big
deal. !!!!

Don't count on that, but good luck!

This may seem very basic but I have seen it ignored.

Ribbon cables are very fragile and should never be used "outside the
box".
They are great between fixed components, eg. disk drives inside
computers but it does not take much physical activity to fracture a
wire or 2.

Depends on how ham-fisted your customers are. I once worked on a commercial
product that had 24" ribbon cables out the back with a DIP plug at the end.

They're OK, as long as you don't use them to tow a car or whatever. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich



The ribbon cables cannot be folded in half lengthwise without having
internal wire breakage. I have fixed more than a couple CNC controls
with intermittent problems by changing out the ribbon cables that were
improperly installed. The cables were run to a swing out sub panel and
folded in half which stressed the wires on the fold as the panel moved.
The cable should be kept flat and when making a bend fold it across the
cable to make the corner bend.

John

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 18:17:12 -0700, "Califbill"
wrote:



Being a former engineer for the company that used more flat cable than
anyone else in the world that we knew of. System Industries and we were the
largest 2nd source for disk subsystems for DEC. You can install the IDC
connector with a vise. Just be careful that the cable is lined up
correctly. Some of the connectors with the metal end tabs were a little
easier to line up.
When Junior was prettying up his computer with custom made cables, I
came up with two lexan plates hinged together with separable hinges
complete with squaring guide lines so that he could get everything
lined up to perfection then give it a good squeeze with large channel
lock pliers.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...

On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you.
half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the
signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys
and hard drives in you computer.

So how long do you need the cables?

Bob AZ

You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and
make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs
the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get
it outside the case.

!!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big
deal. !!!!

Don't count on that, but good luck!

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html


You have to get a special connector. Crosses over the cables as reverse if
you just cable straight. Have not made flat cable for at lest 20 years.
When I worked for System Industries were the largest user of flat cable in
the world. We designed and made disk subsystems and had up to 50' long
cables. 26 to 50 conductor.

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 17:32:27 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you.
half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the
signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys
and hard drives in you computer.

So how long do you need the cables?

Bob AZ

You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and
make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs
the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get
it outside the case.

!!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big
deal. !!!!

Don't count on that, but good luck!

Yea, I've been surfing digikey for over 1/2 hour and can't find one.
maybe i don't know what to call it.

Karl

REPLY:
3M made a lot of the connectors.

On Oct 29, 11:21*pm, "Califbill" wrote:
"Karl Townsend" *wrote in message

...

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 17:32:27 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:





On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you..
half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the
signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys
and hard drives in you computer.

So how long do you need the cables?

Bob *AZ

You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and
make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs
the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get
it outside the case.

!!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big
deal. *!!!!

Don't count on that, but good luck!

Yea, I've been surfing digikey for over 1/2 hour and can't find one.
maybe i don't know what to call it.

Karl

REPLY:
3M made a lot of the connectors.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Most of the males available will be for PC board mounting. Look at a
SCSI drive sometime. What you want, if you can't get an IDC, is a
"gender changer". I've had a couple from scrounging surplus, so they
are/were available. Likely priced way above the IDC connector price
unless you scrounge as well as I did. You need a PC-centric dealer,
Digi-Key doesn't have everything, as thick as their paper catalog is.
Unfortunately, my favorite surplus haunts are long gone. Weird Stuff
Warehouse is still around, if not in the original locale. Or you
could design your own gender changer with two males mounted to a short
piece of suitably etched PC board. Have seen that done with other
sizes of ribbons.

Stan

wrote in message
...

On Oct 29, 11:21 pm, "Califbill" wrote:
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message

...

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 17:32:27 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:





On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you.
half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the
signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys
and hard drives in you computer.

So how long do you need the cables?

Bob AZ

You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and
make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs
the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get
it outside the case.

!!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big
deal. !!!!

Don't count on that, but good luck!

Yea, I've been surfing digikey for over 1/2 hour and can't find one.
maybe i don't know what to call it.

Karl

REPLY:
3M made a lot of the connectors.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Most of the males available will be for PC board mounting. Look at a
SCSI drive sometime. What you want, if you can't get an IDC, is a
"gender changer". I've had a couple from scrounging surplus, so they
are/were available. Likely priced way above the IDC connector price
unless you scrounge as well as I did. You need a PC-centric dealer,
Digi-Key doesn't have everything, as thick as their paper catalog is.
Unfortunately, my favorite surplus haunts are long gone. Weird Stuff
Warehouse is still around, if not in the original locale. Or you
could design your own gender changer with two males mounted to a short
piece of suitably etched PC board. Have seen that done with other
sizes of ribbons.

Stan


Was just thinking of Weird Stuff about 2 hours ago. Daughter was looking
for chalk board for the 2 year old. Figured WS would have something like
that. It was originally a block over from my office in Milpitas. Handy in
those early 1980 days.

On Oct 30, 1:21*am, "Califbill" wrote:
"Karl Townsend" *wrote in message

...

On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 17:32:27 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:





On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you..
half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the
signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys
and hard drives in you computer.

So how long do you need the cables?

Bob *AZ

You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and
make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs
the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get
it outside the case.

!!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big
deal. *!!!!

Don't count on that, but good luck!

Yea, I've been surfing digikey for over 1/2 hour and can't find one.
maybe i don't know what to call it.

Karl

REPLY:
3M made a lot of the connectors.

I've made emergency male ribbon connectors from female ones and
wirewrap headers, but their reliability depends highly on your manual
skill level.

Separate the wires into pairs for an inch or two.
Clamp the connector in a vise with the split forks barely above the
jaws. I fill in the wire/socket 1 triangle with a fine tipped marker
or nail polish so I can still locate it
Give pair 1 and 2 a half twist.
Using two fine screwdrivers or your thumbnails, press wire 2 onto the
end fork (socket 1) and red 1 onto the adjacent socket 2 fork. This
swaps the odd and even numbered rows.
Repeat for the rest of the wire pairs. Be careful to keep the lengths
even or the cable will be too sensitive to strain.
Definitely add a strain relief bar.
Plug in a double row wirewrap header and lash it in place with
thread.

When you plug this into a standard ribbon cable the two even/odd
crossings cancel.

To quickly check the cable for continuity, make test plugs for the
ends from double row headers.
On one end attach a lead to pins 1 and 50, then wirewrap 2 to 3, 4 to
5, etc.
For the other one wrap 1 to 2, 3 to 4, etc. Bare wire is fine.
Plug in both headers and buzz between the 1 and 50 leads. If they are
open, search down the row.

Good luck with this. It's worked well for me but not so well for
anyone I've showed it to, usually the head of the assembly/rework
department. I was the designated stuckee to negotiate between them and
engineering.

jsw