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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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make your own I/O cables
I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1
spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any instruction on putting the IDC end on? 50 conductor cable http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905 IDC socket http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308 Karl |
#2
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make your own I/O cables
On 10/21/2010 03:49 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1 spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any instruction on putting the IDC end on? 50 conductor cable http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905 IDC socket http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308 Karl The cable you link to has a pretty confusing picture, but I am guessing from the description that this is the stuff that when you strip the jacket and unroll it, it works like regular ribbon cable. if you don't need the compact nature or shield, ordinary ribbon cable is a lot cheaper. You can crimp the connectors in a vise. You may want to get the strain relief pieces for the connector, they help the connection to last longer. Jon |
#3
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make your own I/O cables
On 10/21/2010 01:49 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1 spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any instruction on putting the IDC end on? 50 conductor cable http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905 IDC socket http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308 If you're only doing a few check Digi-Key and Mouser -- they may have better price and availability on small quantities. Depending on how you're going to use the cable you may also want to get the strain reliever and the pull tab. The strain reliever loops the cable around the back of the connector so a tug on the cable doesn't pull on the connections. The pull tab is a string or a loop of plastic that goes under the strain reliever and lets you pull on the connector body without upsetting the connections. Decent computer cables use both -- the one for when you pull on a disk without remembering to unhook the cable, the other for when you unhook the cable. To stomp the connector on the cable you want to align the cable on the connections, then press everything together with a pair of flat and parallel somethings. Different connectors differ in detail, but most of them let you put the connector together "one click" (or ship the connector that way), which allows just enough room to put the cable in and inspect to make sure that the tines of the IDC connector are lined up right. I hold the connector lightly in a portable vise, then get the cable put in so that it looks good, then tighten the vise. Amphenol will sell you a special tool to do this, it costs about a bazillion dollars, and to my knowledge doesn't work any better than a vise or an arbor press with the right set of jaws. To be thorough, check the cable to make sure that each wire is connected from end to end, and isn't connected to it's neighbors (i.e. check pin 11 against pins 10 and 12). You can reduce the need to check, and increase the reliability of the cable, but sticking to name-brand hardware like Amphenol or 3M (I have never, ever gone wrong with 3M). Make sure that you're connecting pin 1 to wire 1, and that the wire exits the connector on the correct side (check twice if you're using strain reliefs, as this swaps the side of the connector that the wire exits from). -- Tim Wescott Wescott Design Services http://www.wescottdesign.com Do you need to implement control loops in software? "Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you. See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html |
#4
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make your own I/O cables
Tim Wescott wrote: On 10/21/2010 01:49 PM, Karl Townsend wrote: I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1 spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any instruction on putting the IDC end on? 50 conductor cable http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905 IDC socket http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308 If you're only doing a few check Digi-Key and Mouser -- they may have better price and availability on small quantities. Depending on how you're going to use the cable you may also want to get the strain reliever and the pull tab. The strain reliever loops the cable around the back of the connector so a tug on the cable doesn't pull on the connections. The pull tab is a string or a loop of plastic that goes under the strain reliever and lets you pull on the connector body without upsetting the connections. Decent computer cables use both -- the one for when you pull on a disk without remembering to unhook the cable, the other for when you unhook the cable. To stomp the connector on the cable you want to align the cable on the connections, then press everything together with a pair of flat and parallel somethings. Different connectors differ in detail, but most of them let you put the connector together "one click" (or ship the connector that way), which allows just enough room to put the cable in and inspect to make sure that the tines of the IDC connector are lined up right. I hold the connector lightly in a portable vise, then get the cable put in so that it looks good, then tighten the vise. Amphenol will sell you a special tool to do this, it costs about a bazillion dollars, and to my knowledge doesn't work any better than a vise or an arbor press with the right set of jaws. To be thorough, check the cable to make sure that each wire is connected from end to end, and isn't connected to it's neighbors (i.e. check pin 11 against pins 10 and 12). You can reduce the need to check, and increase the reliability of the cable, but sticking to name-brand hardware like Amphenol or 3M (I have never, ever gone wrong with 3M). Make sure that you're connecting pin 1 to wire 1, and that the wire exits the connector on the correct side (check twice if you're using strain reliefs, as this swaps the side of the connector that the wire exits from). Additionally, last I looked, Digi-Key had these cables available pre-made in standard lengths and possible custom lengths as well. |
#5
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make your own I/O cables
On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 16:53:44 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote: Tim Wescott wrote: On 10/21/2010 01:49 PM, Karl Townsend wrote: I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1 spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any instruction on putting the IDC end on? 50 conductor cable http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905 IDC socket http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308 If you're only doing a few check Digi-Key and Mouser -- they may have better price and availability on small quantities. Depending on how you're going to use the cable you may also want to get the strain reliever and the pull tab. The strain reliever loops the cable around the back of the connector so a tug on the cable doesn't pull on the connections. The pull tab is a string or a loop of plastic that goes under the strain reliever and lets you pull on the connector body without upsetting the connections. Decent computer cables use both -- the one for when you pull on a disk without remembering to unhook the cable, the other for when you unhook the cable. To stomp the connector on the cable you want to align the cable on the connections, then press everything together with a pair of flat and parallel somethings. Different connectors differ in detail, but most of them let you put the connector together "one click" (or ship the connector that way), which allows just enough room to put the cable in and inspect to make sure that the tines of the IDC connector are lined up right. I hold the connector lightly in a portable vise, then get the cable put in so that it looks good, then tighten the vise. Amphenol will sell you a special tool to do this, it costs about a bazillion dollars, and to my knowledge doesn't work any better than a vise or an arbor press with the right set of jaws. To be thorough, check the cable to make sure that each wire is connected from end to end, and isn't connected to it's neighbors (i.e. check pin 11 against pins 10 and 12). You can reduce the need to check, and increase the reliability of the cable, but sticking to name-brand hardware like Amphenol or 3M (I have never, ever gone wrong with 3M). Make sure that you're connecting pin 1 to wire 1, and that the wire exits the connector on the correct side (check twice if you're using strain reliefs, as this swaps the side of the connector that the wire exits from). Additionally, last I looked, Digi-Key had these cables available pre-made in standard lengths and possible custom lengths as well. Thanks, everybody, for the advice. I hope i didn't miss it on digikey. I used the flat ribbon on my last refit and its an awful mess plus not sheilded. Another fella that does camsoft refits suggested this. So, i just dropped two bills on a lifetime+ supply. Karl |
#6
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make your own I/O cables
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message ... On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 16:53:44 -0500, "Pete C." wrote: Tim Wescott wrote: On 10/21/2010 01:49 PM, Karl Townsend wrote: I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1 spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any instruction on putting the IDC end on? 50 conductor cable http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905 IDC socket http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308 If you're only doing a few check Digi-Key and Mouser -- they may have better price and availability on small quantities. Depending on how you're going to use the cable you may also want to get the strain reliever and the pull tab. The strain reliever loops the cable around the back of the connector so a tug on the cable doesn't pull on the connections. The pull tab is a string or a loop of plastic that goes under the strain reliever and lets you pull on the connector body without upsetting the connections. Decent computer cables use both -- the one for when you pull on a disk without remembering to unhook the cable, the other for when you unhook the cable. To stomp the connector on the cable you want to align the cable on the connections, then press everything together with a pair of flat and parallel somethings. Different connectors differ in detail, but most of them let you put the connector together "one click" (or ship the connector that way), which allows just enough room to put the cable in and inspect to make sure that the tines of the IDC connector are lined up right. I hold the connector lightly in a portable vise, then get the cable put in so that it looks good, then tighten the vise. Amphenol will sell you a special tool to do this, it costs about a bazillion dollars, and to my knowledge doesn't work any better than a vise or an arbor press with the right set of jaws. To be thorough, check the cable to make sure that each wire is connected from end to end, and isn't connected to it's neighbors (i.e. check pin 11 against pins 10 and 12). You can reduce the need to check, and increase the reliability of the cable, but sticking to name-brand hardware like Amphenol or 3M (I have never, ever gone wrong with 3M). Make sure that you're connecting pin 1 to wire 1, and that the wire exits the connector on the correct side (check twice if you're using strain reliefs, as this swaps the side of the connector that the wire exits from). Additionally, last I looked, Digi-Key had these cables available pre-made in standard lengths and possible custom lengths as well. Thanks, everybody, for the advice. I hope i didn't miss it on digikey. I used the flat ribbon on my last refit and its an awful mess plus not sheilded. Another fella that does camsoft refits suggested this. So, i just dropped two bills on a lifetime+ supply. Karl Being a former engineer for the company that used more flat cable than anyone else in the world that we knew of. System Industries and we were the largest 2nd source for disk subsystems for DEC. You can install the IDC connector with a vise. Just be careful that the cable is lined up correctly. Some of the connectors with the metal end tabs were a little easier to line up. |
#7
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make your own I/O cables
On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 18:17:12 -0700, "Califbill"
wrote: Being a former engineer for the company that used more flat cable than anyone else in the world that we knew of. System Industries and we were the largest 2nd source for disk subsystems for DEC. You can install the IDC connector with a vise. Just be careful that the cable is lined up correctly. Some of the connectors with the metal end tabs were a little easier to line up. When Junior was prettying up his computer with custom made cables, I came up with two lexan plates hinged together with separable hinges complete with squaring guide lines so that he could get everything lined up to perfection then give it a good squeeze with large channel lock pliers. Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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make your own I/O cables
On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 15:49:01 -0500, Karl Townsend wrote:
I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1 spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any instruction on putting the IDC end on? 50 conductor cable http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905 IDC socket http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308 That cable URL mentions bulk termination but it isn't clear how far apart the flat sections are, where you can attach an IDC connector. Consider plain flat cable like at following URL, if you don't need round. http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat_id=306&sku=32262 Do you actually have to make the cables yourself? Standard SCSI 1 and SCSI 2 cables with 50-pin IDC connectors aren't expensive. See http://www.ramelectronics.net/computer-parts/scsi/scsi-cables-internal/round-internal-scsi-cables-50-pin/50-pin-3-drive-scsi-ii-cable/prodSCSIR.html (URL on one line), http://www.cablemakers.com/flat-50-pin-internal-scsi-cables.htm, and http://www.computercablesource.com/50-pin-internal-single-ended-scsi-cables-250.html. -- jiw |
#9
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make your own I/O cables
On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 22:39:56 +0000 (UTC), James Waldby
wrote: On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 15:49:01 -0500, Karl Townsend wrote: I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1 spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any instruction on putting the IDC end on? 50 conductor cable http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905 IDC socket http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308 That cable URL mentions bulk termination but it isn't clear how far apart the flat sections are, where you can attach an IDC connector. Consider plain flat cable like at following URL, if you don't need round. http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat_id=306&sku=32262 Do you actually have to make the cables yourself? Standard SCSI 1 and SCSI 2 cables with 50-pin IDC connectors aren't expensive. See http://www.ramelectronics.net/computer-parts/scsi/scsi-cables-internal/round-internal-scsi-cables-50-pin/50-pin-3-drive-scsi-ii-cable/prodSCSIR.html (URL on one line), http://www.cablemakers.com/flat-50-pin-internal-scsi-cables.htm, and http://www.computercablesource.com/50-pin-internal-single-ended-scsi-cables-250.html. Damned good price, wish they were longer. I'll keep this link for other's doing a camsoft refit. Thanks karl |
#10
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make your own I/O cables
On Oct 21, 1:49*pm, Karl Townsend
wrote: I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1 spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any instruction on putting the IDC end on? Karl As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you. half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys and hard drives in you computer. So how long do you need the cables? Bob AZ |
#11
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make your own I/O cables
As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you. half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys and hard drives in you computer. So how long do you need the cables? Bob AZ You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get it outside the case. But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big deal. My runs will be from six to eight feet. They are alongside a lot of other wires, so sheilding and round are important. Karl karl |
#12
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make your own I/O cables
On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you. half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys and hard drives in you computer. So how long do you need the cables? Bob AZ You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get it outside the case. !!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big deal. !!!! Don't count on that, but good luck! -- Tim Wescott Wescott Design Services http://www.wescottdesign.com Do you need to implement control loops in software? "Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you. See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html |
#13
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make your own I/O cables
On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 17:32:27 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote: On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote: As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you. half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys and hard drives in you computer. So how long do you need the cables? Bob AZ You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get it outside the case. !!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big deal. !!!! Don't count on that, but good luck! From what I remember there are male to male adapters that fit between female ends of ribbon cable connectors - ore used to be. But CalesOnLine has Item # FC-150 for $250 each. Computercableinc has them for $7.50 each. Part # CON-IDC-50M |
#14
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make your own I/O cables
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#16
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make your own I/O cables
"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
... On 10/21/2010 05:08 PM, Karl Townsend wrote: As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you. half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys and hard drives in you computer. So how long do you need the cables? Bob AZ You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get it outside the case. !!!! But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big deal. !!!! Don't count on that, but good luck! -- Tim Wescott Wescott Design Services http://www.wescottdesign.com Do you need to implement control loops in software? "Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you. See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html You have to get a special connector. Crosses over the cables as reverse if you just cable straight. Have not made flat cable for at lest 20 years. When I worked for System Industries were the largest user of flat cable in the world. We designed and made disk subsystems and had up to 50' long cables. 26 to 50 conductor. |
#17
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make your own I/O cables
Karl Townsend wrote:
As another said this will probably be a standard ribbon cable for you. half the conductors are simply drain/grounds/shields in between the signal wires. IOW the usual ribbon cable for interconnecting floppys and hard drives in you computer. So how long do you need the cables? You just gave me a great idea. I'll get four short ribbon cables and make a holding bracket on the side of the computer. The I/O card plugs the cables directly and they are a PITA to disconnect. This will get it outside the case. But, now I'll have to look for a male connector, surely no big deal. Assuming you're going to a PCB, look up "header". Good Luck! Rich |
#18
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make your own I/O cables
Bob AZ wrote:
So how long do you need the cables? He probably wants to keep them. ;-) Cheers! Rich |
#19
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make your own I/O cables
On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 18:33:39 -0700, Rich Grise
wrote: Bob AZ wrote: So how long do you need the cables? He probably wants to keep them. ;-) Cheers! Rich ROFLMAO!!! I am the Sword of my Family and the Shield of my Nation. If sent, I will crush everything you have built, burn everything you love, and kill every one of you. (Hebrew quote) |
#20
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make your own I/O cables
On Oct 21, 1:49*pm, Karl Townsend
wrote: I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1 spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any instruction on putting the IDC end on? 50 conductor cablehttp://www.alliedelec.com/search/searchresults.aspx?N=0&Ntk=Primary&N... IDC sockethttp://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=5182308 Karl We used to make those all the time. The ribbon cable has a colored strand so you don't turn the cable over by chance and get the connector reversed. Just cut to length and use a 1 ton arbor press with a foot that is at least as long as the connector and press the connector through the cable and into the cover. Cover will snap in place. I think I could even do it! Paul |
#21
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make your own I/O cables
On 2010-10-21, Karl Townsend wrote:
I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1 spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any instruction on putting the IDC end on? 50 conductor cable http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...y&Ntt=608-2905 Interesting -- flat cable bundled up into a round jacket. That is convenient. But you may (or may not) want/need to terminate the shield shown in the details of the cable. It will not normally connect to any pins in the connector. IDC socket http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5182308 O.K. That one has a single bar on the back to force the wires over the pins, which are typically a two-petaled tulip which penetrates the insulation on either side of the pin, and then cuts in to make contact with the wires. There are usually optional secondary bars to handle the stress if you unplug and re-plug frequently. Anyway: 1) Get a few spare connectors. 2) Be careful that the connector is truly at right angles to the cable. If at an angle, the spacing of the pins won't match the spacing of the wires, and you will wind up with adjacent wires shorted by the pins where they punch through. 3) You can squeeze the connector onto the cable using a good vise with parallel jaws. Some styles need notches in the pusher bar to clear pins which guide and lock the strain relief (e.g. T&B Ansley blue-ribbon style (commonly mis-called Centronics style) connectors. And ideally, you have a lever which moves the pusher bar down to a specific height, and the connector body in a guide holding it at the right height for the pusher bar. 4) Be sure to get the same edge of the cable (either a different color stripe, or a brown wire (for multiples of ten wires, start on brown, end on black) lined up with the marked pin-1 end of the connector (usually a triangle on one side) so the same wire becomes pin 1 on each side. If that happens, the rest are all correct. If you have a lot of these to do -- mill a slot in a block of aluminum just the right width to hold the connector upright -- and with a second milled slot just wide enough to accept the keying bump in the center of the connector. Make the depth of the slot just right (and the thickness of the aluminum block too) so the dimension from the bottom of the block to the top of a fully crimped connector is 1.000", and set up something like a small arbor press with a cross bar to close down to 1.000" height. (Perhaps have the bar longer than the connector-support block, with 1.000" high blocks on either side to stop the stroke of the pusher bar. If you are making it only for a single width of connector (e.g. your 50 pin ones), mill an extra thickness to at least one side of the ribbon to hold it lined up while you crimp. Otherwise, make and adjustable bar for the guide function. And -- it would be helpful to have another bar for the press, which carries a steel blade to cut across the full width of the ribbon cable in one cut. This makes it easier to get things started into the connector and lined up square. I've actually got two presses from hamfests. One (the cheaper one) I keep set up with the blade only. The other (a T&B Ansley press) I have a full set of pusher bars (notched and not as needed) and a full set of blocks to support the connectors at the right height. The Blue-ribbon style, and the DB-25, DD-50, DE-9 DA-15, require the notched pusher bar. And -- the connector goes fully through the support (which is a U-shaped slot milled in it) and rests on the bottom, so it uses the full 1" height -- plus the clearance in the notched pusher bar. The pusher has an adjustment stop, which when set at '0', closes to 1.000" precisely. At other settings it is a bit higher, corresponding to the needs of the connector in question. The reason for the height and support is so the connector is not crushed by the press. If using a vise -- be very careful to not over-do it. Good Luck, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#22
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make your own I/O cables
On Oct 21, 2:49*pm, Karl Townsend
wrote: I need to make up cables with 50 pin ends, two rows of 25 on .1 spacing. I've never done this. Are the parts below all I need? Any instruction on putting the IDC end on? 50 conductor cablehttp://www.alliedelec.com/search/searchresults.aspx?N=0&Ntk=Primary&N... IDC sockethttp://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=5182308 Karl I used to make these up customized for my SCSI cabinets. In SCSI service, every other wire is a ground, so the ribbbon cable is shielded that way rather than with wonking big braided covers. You can also get higher speed stuff that has pairs twisted every few inches in the flat stuff, usually narrower than the 50 wire ribbons, though. I have run across really old ribbons that had external shielding, very heavy stuff and would be hard to squeeze IDCs onto. You can get bulkhead connectors for Centronics, I wouldn't consider those for a shop environment. Usual practice on the big computer systems was to run ribbon up to the bulkhead, then go with a D- connector externally with round rubber-covered and shielded twisted pair cable, either soldered or crimped to the connectors. Had a lot better abrasion resistance when dragging it under the flooring. I had a plastic gizmo for squeezing IDCs, was just a nest for for the front part and a guided plate for the rear. Could be used in a small arbor press or a smooth-jawed vise. Important to get the ribbon square with the connector before squeezing, one edge of the ribbon will be striped, this matches up with an arrow molded someplace on the end of the connector or number "1". Go easy on the pressure, it doesn't take a lot and some makes of connectors can fracture if over- squeezed. Then you get to slice off the dud and start over. You can get strain reliefs and ribbon for same for pulling the connector, highly recommended if you ever expect to get back into the thing at any time. Stan |
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