Living in the Rochester, NY area. Vehicles rust, and
parts are dificult to remove. The threaded pins for
GM front brakes are often miserable to remove. The
threads are dificult to get to, and tend to rust and lock
up.

What's some of the ways to prevent the rust? And what
are some ways to remove rusted ones?

In the last day or two, I've been helping work on a friend's
car. The T-50 socket tip removed one pin. A metric allen
wrench removed another. And vise grips for yet another.

I cleaned out the threads with a wire brush, and put some
silver Never-Sieze in. He put a dab of neversieze on the
T-50 socket end of the pin, to help keep it from rusting.

Anything else we could have done?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/13/2010 7:07 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Living in the Rochester, NY area. Vehicles rust, and
parts are dificult to remove. The threaded pins for
GM front brakes are often miserable to remove. The
threads are dificult to get to, and tend to rust and lock
up.

What's some of the ways to prevent the rust? And what
are some ways to remove rusted ones?

In the last day or two, I've been helping work on a friend's
car. The T-50 socket tip removed one pin. A metric allen
wrench removed another. And vise grips for yet another.

I cleaned out the threads with a wire brush, and put some
silver Never-Sieze in. He put a dab of neversieze on the
T-50 socket end of the pin, to help keep it from rusting.

Anything else we could have done?


There are silicone caps that will fit over those socket heads. Fill with
hi-temp grease first.

Problem with calipers is most of the usual anti-rust treatments won't
hold up to the heat. You can help that a bit by using pad shims on the
backing plates, and by making sure the caliper piston boots are
relatively new. The boots have enough spring to them that they help pull
the piston back away from the caliper, so less heat is generated while
just driving. Old boots let the pads brush the rotor all the time and
they run hotter.
I think if it were mine I'd buy a big tube of brake grease and one
of antiseize. I'd use the latter on threads, and I'd brush a coat of the
grease over everything else, with extra on the external areas around the
threaded bits.

--
I can see November from my front porch

On Wed, 13 Oct 2010 10:08:13 -0500, RBnDFW wrote:

On 10/13/2010 7:07 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Living in the Rochester, NY area. Vehicles rust, and
parts are dificult to remove. The threaded pins for
GM front brakes are often miserable to remove. The
threads are dificult to get to, and tend to rust and lock
up.

What's some of the ways to prevent the rust? And what
are some ways to remove rusted ones?

In the last day or two, I've been helping work on a friend's
car. The T-50 socket tip removed one pin. A metric allen
wrench removed another. And vise grips for yet another.

I cleaned out the threads with a wire brush, and put some
silver Never-Sieze in. He put a dab of neversieze on the
T-50 socket end of the pin, to help keep it from rusting.

Anything else we could have done?


There are silicone caps that will fit over those socket heads. Fill with
hi-temp grease first.

Problem with calipers is most of the usual anti-rust treatments won't
hold up to the heat. You can help that a bit by using pad shims on the
backing plates, and by making sure the caliper piston boots are
relatively new. The boots have enough spring to them that they help pull
the piston back away from the caliper, so less heat is generated while
just driving. Old boots let the pads brush the rotor all the time and
they run hotter.
I think if it were mine I'd buy a big tube of brake grease and one
of antiseize. I'd use the latter on threads, and I'd brush a coat of the
grease over everything else, with extra on the external areas around the
threaded bits.

I ALWAYS use copper antiseize on the sliding bits on disk brakes..and do
it carefully of course. Ive had vehicles so treated in the ocean at the
beach or driven through creeks and puddles for weeks at a time on
vacation or on the job, and they never rusted enough to worry about or
need anything special to disassemble

Gunner


I am the Sword of my Family
and the Shield of my Nation.
If sent, I will crush everything you have built,
burn everything you love,
and kill every one of you.
(Hebrew quote)

On Wed, 13 Oct 2010 10:08:13 -0500, RBnDFW
wrote:

On 10/13/2010 7:07 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Living in the Rochester, NY area. Vehicles rust, and
parts are dificult to remove. The threaded pins for
GM front brakes are often miserable to remove. The
threads are dificult to get to, and tend to rust and lock
up.

What's some of the ways to prevent the rust? And what
are some ways to remove rusted ones?

In the last day or two, I've been helping work on a friend's
car. The T-50 socket tip removed one pin. A metric allen
wrench removed another. And vise grips for yet another.

I cleaned out the threads with a wire brush, and put some
silver Never-Sieze in. He put a dab of neversieze on the
T-50 socket end of the pin, to help keep it from rusting.

Anything else we could have done?


There are silicone caps that will fit over those socket heads. Fill with
hi-temp grease first.

Problem with calipers is most of the usual anti-rust treatments won't
hold up to the heat. You can help that a bit by using pad shims on the
backing plates, and by making sure the caliper piston boots are
relatively new. The boots have enough spring to them that they help pull
the piston back away from the caliper, so less heat is generated while
just driving. Old boots let the pads brush the rotor all the time and
they run hotter.

The boots generally do NOTHING to pull back the pads. That's the job
of the square "O" ring seals in the caliper.

The problem Stormy ran into is why I ALWAYS recommended the calipers
be "serviced" at least once a year - and preferably 2. "Service"
involved pulling , cleaning, and lubing all pins and sliders and
pushing back the pistons to check for sticking pistons.

We used a hight temperature anti-sieze on the pins and silicone based
brake lube on the sliders.
I think if it were mine I'd buy a big tube of brake grease and one
of antiseize. I'd use the latter on threads, and I'd brush a coat of the
grease over everything else, with extra on the external areas around the
threaded bits.

Stormin Mormon wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Wed, 13 Oct 2010 08:07:52 -0400:

Living in the Rochester, NY area. Vehicles rust, and
parts are dificult to remove. The threaded pins for
GM front brakes are often miserable to remove. The
threads are dificult to get to, and tend to rust and lock
up.

What's some of the ways to prevent the rust?

Use locktite. No kidding. Find the weakest kind you can(pink?).
Holds tight, but will break free.

And what
are some ways to remove rusted ones?

Heat+kroil(or PB Blaster).


--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

On 10/13/2010 4:41 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 13 Oct 2010 10:08:13 -0500,
wrote:

On 10/13/2010 7:07 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Living in the Rochester, NY area. Vehicles rust, and
parts are dificult to remove. The threaded pins for
GM front brakes are often miserable to remove. The
threads are dificult to get to, and tend to rust and lock
up.

What's some of the ways to prevent the rust? And what
are some ways to remove rusted ones?

In the last day or two, I've been helping work on a friend's
car. The T-50 socket tip removed one pin. A metric allen
wrench removed another. And vise grips for yet another.

I cleaned out the threads with a wire brush, and put some
silver Never-Sieze in. He put a dab of neversieze on the
T-50 socket end of the pin, to help keep it from rusting.

Anything else we could have done?


There are silicone caps that will fit over those socket heads. Fill with
hi-temp grease first.

Problem with calipers is most of the usual anti-rust treatments won't
hold up to the heat. You can help that a bit by using pad shims on the
backing plates, and by making sure the caliper piston boots are
relatively new. The boots have enough spring to them that they help pull
the piston back away from the caliper, so less heat is generated while
just driving. Old boots let the pads brush the rotor all the time and
they run hotter.

The boots generally do NOTHING to pull back the pads. That's the job
of the square "O" ring seals in the caliper.

You are correct,it's the seals, not the boot. There are a few rare
exceptions.

--
I can see November from my front porch

Well, that sure sounds like a good way to handle brake pins.

How do cub scouts get to be boy scouts? Eating brownies.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Black Dragon"
wrote in message ...

I work in Rochester but refuse to live there because, generally
speaking,
the people there are dickheads. Buffalo is a much nicer place to live
in
that respect.

Preventative maintenance. I pull the brakes off my vehicles at least
once
per year to clean then lube threads with never seize and slides / pins
with
silicone brake grease. New vehicles once per year in the spring. Older
high mileage vehicles in the fall and spring.

--
Black Dragon

Q: What is green and comes in Brownies?
A: Boy Scouts.

Thanks. I had some Kroil, a while back. I should order some more. The
last time the brake pins were badly rusted on, I did use heat and
beat.

Loctite? Sounds like that would seal the water out?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"dan" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Wed, 13 Oct 2010 08:07:52 -0400:

Living in the Rochester, NY area. Vehicles rust, and
parts are dificult to remove. The threaded pins for
GM front brakes are often miserable to remove. The
threads are dificult to get to, and tend to rust and lock
up.

What's some of the ways to prevent the rust?

Use locktite. No kidding. Find the weakest kind you can(pink?).
Holds tight, but will break free.

And what
are some ways to remove rusted ones?

Heat+kroil(or PB Blaster).


--

Dan H.
northshore MA.