I called KO Lee (LeBlond) today to find out whether the right hand
flange had a right or left hand thread. Su-prise! It's a press fit
and not threaded at all.

John at Leblond looked up the engineering drawing and it said that the
hole in the flange is drilled and then reamed to 0.624" +0 to -0.001
My spindle measures 0.6250 to 0.6255

Photos here of the removal:

Flange part way off:
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...g?t=1280193138

Spindle with brass cover and flange removed:
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...vedLarge.jp g

That explains why the creator of the brass cover put two slots at the
end. They were to allow the gear puller to grab the flange.

The holes on the face of the flange mate with a pin that is in the
face of the right hand extension that came with the grinder. They're
not for unscrewing the flange.

I'm thinking that the way to put the flange back on is to heat it with
a heat gun and slam it on the end of the spindle as quickly as I can.
Or would I better off heating it hotter with a torch?

RWL

GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote in message
...
I called KO Lee (LeBlond) today to find out whether the
right hand
flange had a right or left hand thread. Su-prise! It's a
press fit
and not threaded at all.

John at Leblond looked up the engineering drawing and it
said that the
hole in the flange is drilled and then reamed to 0.624" +0
to -0.001
My spindle measures 0.6250 to 0.6255

Photos here of the removal:

Flange part way off:
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...g?t=1280193138

Spindle with brass cover and flange removed:
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...vedLarge.jp g

That explains why the creator of the brass cover put two
slots at the
end. They were to allow the gear puller to grab the
flange.

The holes on the face of the flange mate with a pin that
is in the
face of the right hand extension that came with the
grinder. They're
not for unscrewing the flange.

I'm thinking that the way to put the flange back on is to
heat it with
a heat gun and slam it on the end of the spindle as
quickly as I can.
Or would I better off heating it hotter with a torch?

RWL

Try this: clean the shaft and the bore with crocus cloth
then take a
heavy block of aluminum and heat _that_ to about 350 to 400
deg
and then put the flange on _it_ to heat it. You can easily
measure the
bore to see if you can get two thou expansion. There's no
use getting
it much hotter as the shaft will absorb heat and may affect
the seal.
You could even have another block of aluminum with a hole so
you
can soak heat away from the flange once in place, if you're
really
picky. ;)) In fact, you could have heated the flange this
way to
remove it without using a puller. Pulling it off cold
affects the
press fit. phil

On Mon, 26 Jul 2010 22:01:12 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote in message


I called KO Lee (LeBlond) today to find out whether the
right hand flange had a right or left hand thread.
Su-prise! It's a press fit and not threaded at all.

RWL


In fact, you could have heated the flange this way to
remove it without using a puller. Pulling it off cold
affects the press fit.
phil

Thanks for the comments.

Funny you should mention that. John at KO Lee suggested the same
thing. I didn't think much about it at the time since I didn't
realize that heating the flange would expand it more than it would the
shaft. Live and learn. Would I have been able to just pull it off
with gloved hands or would I still have needed a gear puller?

How about a hot plate to heat the flange for reinstallation? I don't
have any aluminum blocks. I could lay the flange directly on the
burner coils and it has a thermostat so I could monitor the temp. If
needed I do have some flat sheet metal I could lay the flange on. I
do have a Harbor Freight infrared thermometer that I could use to
monitor the temp.

I have one noisy bearing in the head and I'm debating replacing that
before I put the flange back on.

RWL

GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote in message
On Mon, 26 Jul 2010 22:01:12 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote in message


I called KO Lee (LeBlond) today to find out whether the
right hand flange had a right or left hand thread.
Su-prise! It's a press fit and not threaded at all.

RWL


In fact, you could have heated the flange this way to
remove it without using a puller. Pulling it off cold
affects the press fit.
phil

Thanks for the comments.

Funny you should mention that. John at KO Lee suggested
the same
thing. I didn't think much about it at the time since I
didn't
realize that heating the flange would expand it more than
it would the
shaft. Live and learn. Would I have been able to just
pull it off
with gloved hands or would I still have needed a gear
puller?

How about a hot plate to heat the flange for
reinstallation? I don't
have any aluminum blocks. I could lay the flange directly
on the
burner coils and it has a thermostat so I could monitor
the temp. If
needed I do have some flat sheet metal I could lay the
flange on. I
do have a Harbor Freight infrared thermometer that I could
use to
monitor the temp.

I have one noisy bearing in the head and I'm debating
replacing that
before I put the flange back on.

RWL

Looks like you're on the right track, carry on! Use the
tools you have.
;)) phil

On 2010-07-28, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane wrote:
On Mon, 26 Jul 2010 22:01:12 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:

[ ... ]

In fact, you could have heated the flange this way to
remove it without using a puller. Pulling it off cold
affects the press fit.

[ ... ]

Funny you should mention that. John at KO Lee suggested the same
thing. I didn't think much about it at the time since I didn't
realize that heating the flange would expand it more than it would the
shaft. Live and learn. Would I have been able to just pull it off
with gloved hands or would I still have needed a gear puller?

I would have put a gear puller on adjusted to maintain a bit of
stress on the flange, so I could tell quickly when it reached the right
temperature.

Remember -- you are heating the flange so it expands first, but
the heat conducts into the shaft so it will eventually be just as tight
as it was when cool. Having the gear puller on there would help you to
recognize the right time to pull it.

How about a hot plate to heat the flange for reinstallation? I don't
have any aluminum blocks. I could lay the flange directly on the
burner coils and it has a thermostat so I could monitor the temp.

Do you know exactly what the thermostat monitors? It might be
useless in this job.

Do you have a toaster oven? That might work well for getting it
evenly to the proper temperature. Put it in there, set the thermostat
for the desired temperature, and let it settle for some time based on
the thickness of the part. At a guess -- ten to fifteen minutes in the
oven after the thermostat starts cycling would do for a part that size.

If
needed I do have some flat sheet metal I could lay the flange on. I
do have a Harbor Freight infrared thermometer that I could use to
monitor the temp.

You need to know the emissivity calibration factor for the IR
thermometer. And that varies with the material and the surface finish
of what you are monitoring.

I have one noisy bearing in the head and I'm debating replacing that
before I put the flange back on.

Don't debate it -- *do* it. (Actually -- replace both just to
be sure.) The fewer times that flange comes off and on the better the
grip.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Tue, 27 Jul 2010 22:08:20 -0400, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jul 2010 22:01:12 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote in message


I called KO Lee (LeBlond) today to find out whether the
right hand flange had a right or left hand thread.
Su-prise! It's a press fit and not threaded at all.

RWL


In fact, you could have heated the flange this way to
remove it without using a puller. Pulling it off cold
affects the press fit.
phil

Thanks for the comments.

Funny you should mention that. John at KO Lee suggested the same
thing. I didn't think much about it at the time since I didn't
realize that heating the flange would expand it more than it would the
shaft. Live and learn. Would I have been able to just pull it off
with gloved hands or would I still have needed a gear puller?

How about a hot plate to heat the flange for reinstallation? I don't
have any aluminum blocks. I could lay the flange directly on the
burner coils and it has a thermostat so I could monitor the temp. If
needed I do have some flat sheet metal I could lay the flange on. I
do have a Harbor Freight infrared thermometer that I could use to
monitor the temp.

I have one noisy bearing in the head and I'm debating replacing that
before I put the flange back on.

RWL

Do the bearing. Best pricing can be found with Alpine Bearing, if you
tell them you are part of the RapidTurn Group.

Trust me...your pricing will be much better than normal.

Second choice...Thompson Industrial, in Anaheim, California.

Tell them you are a member of Coyote Engineering.

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

I have one noisy bearing in the head and I'm debating replacing that
before I put the flange back on.

RWL


Do the bearing. Best pricing can be found with Alpine Bearing, if you
tell them you are part of the RapidTurn Group.

Trust me...your pricing will be much better than normal.

Second choice...Thompson Industrial, in Anaheim, California.

Tell them you are a member of Coyote Engineering.
Gunner

Thanks. I sent email inquiries to both companies.

When I spoke with KO Lee / LeBlond today, their bearings aren't
specified with regard to ABEC class and the ones they have available
are $15 apiece, which suggests that they are only generic bearings
without a high ABEC rating. The updated designation for their bearing
is 6203-LLB/2A. The LLB signifies two non-contact rubber seals and
the 2A indicates it's running in grease, not oil.

There's somebody on eBay listing a bearing 6203-2RZ in ABEC 5 for $13
and free shipping. I think that's pretty similar to the bearing I
need. From what I can tell, it differs only in that the 2RZ is two
metal shields and the LLB is two non-contact rubber seals. I"m not
sure if the seals vs shields makes a difference and whether seal
contact vs non-contact makes a difference. ABEC 7 would be ideal, but
ABEC 5 would do from what I'm told elsewhere.

RWL

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Tue, 27 Jul 2010 22:08:20 -0400, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jul 2010 22:01:12 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote in message


I called KO Lee (LeBlond) today to find out whether the
right hand flange had a right or left hand thread.
Su-prise! It's a press fit and not threaded at all.

RWL


In fact, you could have heated the flange this way to
remove it without using a puller. Pulling it off cold
affects the press fit.
phil

Thanks for the comments.

Funny you should mention that. John at KO Lee suggested the same
thing. I didn't think much about it at the time since I didn't
realize that heating the flange would expand it more than it would the
shaft. Live and learn. Would I have been able to just pull it off
with gloved hands or would I still have needed a gear puller?

How about a hot plate to heat the flange for reinstallation? I don't
have any aluminum blocks. I could lay the flange directly on the
burner coils and it has a thermostat so I could monitor the temp. If
needed I do have some flat sheet metal I could lay the flange on. I
do have a Harbor Freight infrared thermometer that I could use to
monitor the temp.

I have one noisy bearing in the head and I'm debating replacing that
before I put the flange back on.

RWL

Do the bearing. Best pricing can be found with Alpine Bearing, if you
tell them you are part of the RapidTurn Group.

Trust me...your pricing will be much better than normal.

Second choice...Thompson Industrial, in Anaheim, California.

Tell them you are a member of Coyote Engineering.


Coyotes are terrible engineers! ;-)

http://johnesimpson.com/images/coyote_sm.jpg

http://johnesimpson.com/blog/2009/05/airborne/ in case that link doesn't
work.

On Wed, 28 Jul 2010 22:46:41 -0400, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote:



I have one noisy bearing in the head and I'm debating replacing that
before I put the flange back on.

RWL


Do the bearing. Best pricing can be found with Alpine Bearing, if you
tell them you are part of the RapidTurn Group.

Trust me...your pricing will be much better than normal.

Second choice...Thompson Industrial, in Anaheim, California.

Tell them you are a member of Coyote Engineering.
Gunner

Thanks. I sent email inquiries to both companies.

When I spoke with KO Lee / LeBlond today, their bearings aren't
specified with regard to ABEC class and the ones they have available
are $15 apiece, which suggests that they are only generic bearings
without a high ABEC rating. The updated designation for their bearing
is 6203-LLB/2A. The LLB signifies two non-contact rubber seals and
the 2A indicates it's running in grease, not oil.

There's somebody on eBay listing a bearing 6203-2RZ in ABEC 5 for $13
and free shipping. I think that's pretty similar to the bearing I
need. From what I can tell, it differs only in that the 2RZ is two
metal shields and the LLB is two non-contact rubber seals. I"m not
sure if the seals vs shields makes a difference and whether seal
contact vs non-contact makes a difference. ABEC 7 would be ideal, but
ABEC 5 would do from what I'm told elsewhere.

RWL


You really really should call them, rather than email them. Emailing
companies .......often times doesnt work very well. Particularly when
the people you want to talk to..that recognize the names I gave you..are
NOT the ones reading the emails.

I should have been more specific. Sorry.

you want rubber shielded bearings rather than the ZZ metal shielded
bearings. WIth rubber..NOTHING gets into them. With metal
shielded..coolant gets in.

Which is a very bad thing if you are running anything besides oil, over
time.

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On Wed, 28 Jul 2010 23:13:28 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Tue, 27 Jul 2010 22:08:20 -0400, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jul 2010 22:01:12 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote in message


I called KO Lee (LeBlond) today to find out whether the
right hand flange had a right or left hand thread.
Su-prise! It's a press fit and not threaded at all.

RWL


In fact, you could have heated the flange this way to
remove it without using a puller. Pulling it off cold
affects the press fit.
phil

Thanks for the comments.

Funny you should mention that. John at KO Lee suggested the same
thing. I didn't think much about it at the time since I didn't
realize that heating the flange would expand it more than it would the
shaft. Live and learn. Would I have been able to just pull it off
with gloved hands or would I still have needed a gear puller?

How about a hot plate to heat the flange for reinstallation? I don't
have any aluminum blocks. I could lay the flange directly on the
burner coils and it has a thermostat so I could monitor the temp. If
needed I do have some flat sheet metal I could lay the flange on. I
do have a Harbor Freight infrared thermometer that I could use to
monitor the temp.

I have one noisy bearing in the head and I'm debating replacing that
before I put the flange back on.

RWL

Do the bearing. Best pricing can be found with Alpine Bearing, if you
tell them you are part of the RapidTurn Group.

Trust me...your pricing will be much better than normal.

Second choice...Thompson Industrial, in Anaheim, California.

Tell them you are a member of Coyote Engineering.


Coyotes are terrible engineers! ;-)

http://johnesimpson.com/images/coyote_sm.jpg

http://johnesimpson.com/blog/2009/05/airborne/ in case that link doesn't
work.

Ayup..if you look at my paperwork...Wile E. Coyote is listed as
President of the company.

Really.

G

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch