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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
I've been interested for a long time in auto body work and painting but never had a clunker to play with. Since buying my Ford Ranger, my F-350 will be going up for sale, I hope to sell it within maybe 6 months or so, maybe the 4wd will sell good around snow time. The F-350 I have isn't a show truck but has a good engine and drive train so it's an opportunity for me to try some body work and touch up. I need to know what kind of sheet metal to get to patch some holes, it needs to be formable, weldable, and close to the thickness of auto body steel. I wouldn't mind having a little extra, I'd like to try forming with hammers, sand bags, and perhaps make an English Wheel. Also, years back some were claiming to have real good results with the Harbor Freight HVLP paint guns, they liked them better than some of the name brand guns IIRC. Any recommended model of HF paint gun? Any other good tool recommendations that would be useful in auto body? Power sanders/ power wet sander? I have a Porter-Cable random orbit sander for wood, I guess it would work for auto body. Will probably get a slide hammer type puller. Any recommendations on paint? I went to Napa and they want $98.XX for a quart of Oxford White, no metallic, no pearl, no clear, just plain white paint. That's OK if that is what it should cost, just want a reasonable competitive price. So maybe I get to play with making my old truck look better, learning some skills along the way, and it will hopefully help the truck sell better and give the buyer a nicer looking truck. I'm sure I'll spend more than it will help the value but I get to learn something and keep the tools. RogerN |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
Roger,
To do this right, you need to make a significant investment in sheet metal tools, which should include a sheer, a brake, rolls, a shrinker, sheet metal hammers, dollies planishing pillows and hammers, as well as several other less significant items. Most of the cost of these can be avoided if you use preformed replacement panels. Of course, this will not help you achieve the skill set of hand forming custom panels, but it does make economic sense. Please also note, that back yard repairs done incorrectly will devalue the vehicle. Please also note that the investment required is not just money, but significant time and very hard work. There are very few people with these old fashioned skill sets still alive today. You will not achieve these with just the experience from one vehicle. Another, not well understood fact is that the sheet metal used in vehicles today is much thinner than what used to be used. Consequently, almost all panel damage results in stretched metal, making panel repair impractical. Additionally, the odds of you achieving the skill set you wish to have is about "0" without instruction from a master. I don't mean to rain on your parade, but you should go into this with your eyes open. Steve "RogerN" wrote in message news I've been interested for a long time in auto body work and painting but never had a clunker to play with. Since buying my Ford Ranger, my F-350 will be going up for sale, I hope to sell it within maybe 6 months or so, maybe the 4wd will sell good around snow time. The F-350 I have isn't a show truck but has a good engine and drive train so it's an opportunity for me to try some body work and touch up. I need to know what kind of sheet metal to get to patch some holes, it needs to be formable, weldable, and close to the thickness of auto body steel. I wouldn't mind having a little extra, I'd like to try forming with hammers, sand bags, and perhaps make an English Wheel. Also, years back some were claiming to have real good results with the Harbor Freight HVLP paint guns, they liked them better than some of the name brand guns IIRC. Any recommended model of HF paint gun? Any other good tool recommendations that would be useful in auto body? Power sanders/ power wet sander? I have a Porter-Cable random orbit sander for wood, I guess it would work for auto body. Will probably get a slide hammer type puller. Any recommendations on paint? I went to Napa and they want $98.XX for a quart of Oxford White, no metallic, no pearl, no clear, just plain white paint. That's OK if that is what it should cost, just want a reasonable competitive price. So maybe I get to play with making my old truck look better, learning some skills along the way, and it will hopefully help the truck sell better and give the buyer a nicer looking truck. I'm sure I'll spend more than it will help the value but I get to learn something and keep the tools. RogerN |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
one comment on steve's suggestions below (which are pretty good) - if the
truck has no collector value, a quick tack on of metal over rusted areas and some properly applied body filler and paint may add $$ to the truck, a little hammer and dolly experience is good, and if you can use a gas welder, you can shrink panels if you really want to, though it is a PITA. "Steve Lusardi" wrote in message ... Roger, To do this right, you need to make a significant investment in sheet metal tools, which should include a sheer, a brake, rolls, a shrinker, sheet metal hammers, dollies planishing pillows and hammers, as well as several other less significant items. Most of the cost of these can be avoided if you use preformed replacement panels. Of course, this will not help you achieve the skill set of hand forming custom panels, but it does make economic sense. Please also note, that back yard repairs done incorrectly will devalue the vehicle. Please also note that the investment required is not just money, but significant time and very hard work. There are very few people with these old fashioned skill sets still alive today. You will not achieve these with just the experience from one vehicle. Another, not well understood fact is that the sheet metal used in vehicles today is much thinner than what used to be used. Consequently, almost all panel damage results in stretched metal, making panel repair impractical. Additionally, the odds of you achieving the skill set you wish to have is about "0" without instruction from a master. I don't mean to rain on your parade, but you should go into this with your eyes open. Steve "RogerN" wrote in message news I've been interested for a long time in auto body work and painting but never had a clunker to play with. Since buying my Ford Ranger, my F-350 will be going up for sale, I hope to sell it within maybe 6 months or so, maybe the 4wd will sell good around snow time. The F-350 I have isn't a show truck but has a good engine and drive train so it's an opportunity for me to try some body work and touch up. I need to know what kind of sheet metal to get to patch some holes, it needs to be formable, weldable, and close to the thickness of auto body steel. I wouldn't mind having a little extra, I'd like to try forming with hammers, sand bags, and perhaps make an English Wheel. Also, years back some were claiming to have real good results with the Harbor Freight HVLP paint guns, they liked them better than some of the name brand guns IIRC. Any recommended model of HF paint gun? Any other good tool recommendations that would be useful in auto body? Power sanders/ power wet sander? I have a Porter-Cable random orbit sander for wood, I guess it would work for auto body. Will probably get a slide hammer type puller. Any recommendations on paint? I went to Napa and they want $98.XX for a quart of Oxford White, no metallic, no pearl, no clear, just plain white paint. That's OK if that is what it should cost, just want a reasonable competitive price. So maybe I get to play with making my old truck look better, learning some skills along the way, and it will hopefully help the truck sell better and give the buyer a nicer looking truck. I'm sure I'll spend more than it will help the value but I get to learn something and keep the tools. RogerN |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
On Jun 2, 4:19*pm, "RogerN" wrote:
I've been interested for a long time in auto body work and painting but never had a clunker to play with. *Since buying my Ford Ranger, my F-350 will be going up for sale, I hope to sell it within maybe 6 months or so, maybe the 4wd will sell good around snow time. *The F-350 I have isn't a show truck but has a good engine and drive train so it's an opportunity for me to try some body work and touch up. I need to know what kind of sheet metal to get to patch some holes, it needs to be formable, weldable, and close to the thickness of auto body steel. *I wouldn't mind having a little extra, I'd like to try forming with hammers, sand bags, and perhaps make an English Wheel. Also, years back some were claiming to have real good results with the Harbor Freight HVLP paint guns, they liked them better than some of the name brand guns IIRC. *Any recommended model of HF paint gun? Any other good tool recommendations that would be useful in auto body? Power sanders/ power wet sander? *I have a Porter-Cable random orbit sander for wood, I guess it would work for auto body. *Will probably get a slide hammer type puller. Any recommendations on paint? *I went to Napa and they want $98.XX for a quart of Oxford White, no metallic, no pearl, no clear, just plain white paint. *That's OK if that is what it should cost, just want a reasonable competitive price. So maybe I get to play with making my old truck look better, learning some skills along the way, and it will hopefully help the truck sell better and give the buyer a nicer looking truck. *I'm sure I'll spend more than it will help the value but I get to learn something and keep the tools. RogerN Many people go to Eastwood. http://www.eastwood.com/?srccode=ga2...FSCjiQodVEsbFw I've never used them myself so I can't give a personal recommendation. Karl |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
"RogerN" wrote in message ... "Steve Lusardi" wrote in message ... Roger, To do this right, you need to make a significant investment in sheet metal tools, which should include a sheer, a brake, rolls, a shrinker, sheet metal hammers, dollies planishing pillows and hammers, as well as several other less significant items. Most of the cost of these can be avoided if you use preformed replacement panels. Of course, this will not help you achieve the skill set of hand forming custom panels, but it does make economic sense. Please also note, that back yard repairs done incorrectly will devalue the vehicle. Please also note that the investment required is not just money, but significant time and very hard work. There are very few people with these old fashioned skill sets still alive today. You will not achieve these with just the experience from one vehicle. Another, not well understood fact is that the sheet metal used in vehicles today is much thinner than what used to be used. Consequently, almost all panel damage results in stretched metal, making panel repair impractical. Additionally, the odds of you achieving the skill set you wish to have is about "0" without instruction from a master. I don't mean to rain on your parade, but you should go into this with your eyes open. Steve "RogerN" wrote in message news The part I want to do the metal work from raw sheet is a hole in the door probably done by Bobcat, the guy I purchased from used it to pull his Bobcat around in his landscaping business. So, that part is sort of in the middle of the door where the metal is fairly flat and it doesn't look rusted, looks like someone put house paint over it. I don't think I want to try to re-skin the door for the hole. The other metal shaping toys are just for fun, I'd like to play with sheet metal and try to learn to shape it like they do on the Chopper TV programs. For the rusted thru above the wheel fenders I plan to try ready made replacement panels. Other than that there are many places where it is scratched or banged up a little, this truck was used to do work and shows is. RogerN Take a look at the Tinman's site: http://www.tinmantech.com/ You've gotten good advice from others about the frustration of working with today's thin body sheet metal, which is often a HSLA (high-strength low-alloy) that is particularly nasty. It work-hardens if you look at it cross-eyed. However, you can have a heck of a lot of fun learning to shape other kinds of sheet metal. I've tried it, with the sandbag and stump methods. I produce something that looks like waves in a stormy sea. g Better luck to you. It requires persistence. -- Ed Huntress |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
On Wed, 2 Jun 2010 21:19:55 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:
I've been interested for a long time in auto body work and painting but never had a clunker to play with. Since buying my Ford Ranger, my F-350 will be going up for sale, I hope to sell it within maybe 6 months or so, maybe the 4wd will sell good around snow time. The F-350 I have isn't a show truck but has a good engine and drive train so it's an opportunity for me to try some body work and touch up. I need to know what kind of sheet metal to get to patch some holes, it needs to be formable, weldable, and close to the thickness of auto body steel. I wouldn't mind having a little extra, I'd like to try forming with hammers, sand bags, and perhaps make an English Wheel. Also, years back some were claiming to have real good results with the Harbor Freight HVLP paint guns, they liked them better than some of the name brand guns IIRC. Any recommended model of HF paint gun? Any other good tool recommendations that would be useful in auto body? Power sanders/ power wet sander? I have a Porter-Cable random orbit sander for wood, I guess it would work for auto body. Will probably get a slide hammer type puller. Any recommendations on paint? I went to Napa and they want $98.XX for a quart of Oxford White, no metallic, no pearl, no clear, just plain white paint. That's OK if that is what it should cost, just want a reasonable competitive price. So maybe I get to play with making my old truck look better, learning some skills along the way, and it will hopefully help the truck sell better and give the buyer a nicer looking truck. I'm sure I'll spend more than it will help the value but I get to learn something and keep the tools. RogerN A small MIG welder is very useful. The Lincoln SP135+ is excellent because heat is continuously variable. Good auto paint is pricey, and well worth it. Use a respirator OSHA-rated for auto paint. They're about 25 bux. Modern cars use very thin high-strength steel that is about unworkable, but older trucks are made of more tractiable stuff. I've even made patches from the skin of an old water heater. This is a very useful tool: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ct_14322_14322 Harbor Freight offers the same tool. It makes a flange in one part and punches holes in the other. You then place the repair part, hold it with cleco's or sheetmetal screws, and fill the holes with the MIG. |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
On Wed, 2 Jun 2010 21:19:55 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:
Any recommendations on paint? I went to Napa and they want $98.XX for a quart of Oxford White, no metallic, no pearl, no clear, just plain white paint. That's OK if that is what it should cost, just want a reasonable competitive price. That sounds a trifle steep. I bought a pint of metallic beige to match a Toyota Corolla, it was about $40 at O'Reilly's. My understanding from them was that it would have cost only a little more for a quart. You may want to check around at other auto parts stores. -- Terry |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
On Jun 2, 8:19*pm, "RogerN" wrote:
I've been interested for a long time in auto body work and painting but never had a clunker to play with. *Since buying my Ford Ranger, my F-350 will be going up for sale, I hope to sell it within maybe 6 months or so, maybe the 4wd will sell good around snow time. *The F-350 I have isn't a show truck but has a good engine and drive train so it's an opportunity for me to try some body work and touch up. I need to know what kind of sheet metal to get to patch some holes, it needs to be formable, weldable, and close to the thickness of auto body steel. *I wouldn't mind having a little extra, I'd like to try forming with hammers, sand bags, and perhaps make an English Wheel. Also, years back some were claiming to have real good results with the Harbor Freight HVLP paint guns, they liked them better than some of the name brand guns IIRC. *Any recommended model of HF paint gun? Any other good tool recommendations that would be useful in auto body? Power sanders/ power wet sander? *I have a Porter-Cable random orbit sander for wood, I guess it would work for auto body. *Will probably get a slide hammer type puller. Any recommendations on paint? *I went to Napa and they want $98.XX for a quart of Oxford White, no metallic, no pearl, no clear, just plain white paint. *That's OK if that is what it should cost, just want a reasonable competitive price. So maybe I get to play with making my old truck look better, learning some skills along the way, and it will hopefully help the truck sell better and give the buyer a nicer looking truck. *I'm sure I'll spend more than it will help the value but I get to learn something and keep the tools. RogerN If the paint is urethane, $100/qt probably isn't out of line. Depends on whether you get the hardener included or not. It gets diluted, the stuff I was using was 1 to 4 paint to diluent. Last paint I bought years back was about $80/qt made up, had to buy hardener, diluent, clear coat, hardener for that, diluent for that, primer for the works and thinner for cleanup, plus various grades of sandpaper, masking material and tape, etc. Had about $250 in materials without even starting the tools up. You will need a mask, urethane is nothing you want to be breathing. If you head down to a body shop supply, they'll have everything you'll need. You might get a break on supply prices, never on paint. NAPA is probably the worst place to buy paint. Note that you have to buy all your paint supplies within the same "family", usually there's at least two grades that a manufacturer puts out. Can't use the cheaper grade primer behind the more expensive paint or vice-versa. These days it all has to match or you'll have a nasty mess. You also have to break down and clean the gun immediately before the stuff hardens up, unless you really like poking out dinky holes in the gun with various-sized wires. HF guns aren't too bad for taking apart, not too many small bits to lose, either. Find a body shop supply and get their literature before buying paint. It'll have all the stuff on recommended temps, dilutions, how long to wait before second coat and clear coat, what primers and paints match, ditto clear coat. Unless you really like sanding fuzz off, you'll need a place that you can tarp up to keep the dust off until the paint hardens up. The stuff isn't like lacquer that hardens up really fast. I've found that about 85 degrees is about optimum for painting in these parts. Too much cooler and the stuff runs, too much warmer and you get orange peel from the paint losing diluent before it hits. YMMV. If you can arrange for some heat lamps, that'll speed things up after spraying. Stan |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
"Ed Huntress" wrote in message ... "RogerN" wrote in message ... "Steve Lusardi" wrote in message ... Roger, To do this right, you need to make a significant investment in sheet metal tools, which should include a sheer, a brake, rolls, a shrinker, sheet metal hammers, dollies planishing pillows and hammers, as well as several other less significant items. Most of the cost of these can be avoided if you use preformed replacement panels. Of course, this will not help you achieve the skill set of hand forming custom panels, but it does make economic sense. Please also note, that back yard repairs done incorrectly will devalue the vehicle. Please also note that the investment required is not just money, but significant time and very hard work. There are very few people with these old fashioned skill sets still alive today. You will not achieve these with just the experience from one vehicle. Another, not well understood fact is that the sheet metal used in vehicles today is much thinner than what used to be used. Consequently, almost all panel damage results in stretched metal, making panel repair impractical. Additionally, the odds of you achieving the skill set you wish to have is about "0" without instruction from a master. I don't mean to rain on your parade, but you should go into this with your eyes open. Steve "RogerN" wrote in message news The part I want to do the metal work from raw sheet is a hole in the door probably done by Bobcat, the guy I purchased from used it to pull his Bobcat around in his landscaping business. So, that part is sort of in the middle of the door where the metal is fairly flat and it doesn't look rusted, looks like someone put house paint over it. I don't think I want to try to re-skin the door for the hole. The other metal shaping toys are just for fun, I'd like to play with sheet metal and try to learn to shape it like they do on the Chopper TV programs. For the rusted thru above the wheel fenders I plan to try ready made replacement panels. Other than that there are many places where it is scratched or banged up a little, this truck was used to do work and shows is. RogerN Take a look at the Tinman's site: http://www.tinmantech.com/ You've gotten good advice from others about the frustration of working with today's thin body sheet metal, which is often a HSLA (high-strength low-alloy) that is particularly nasty. It work-hardens if you look at it cross-eyed. However, you can have a heck of a lot of fun learning to shape other kinds of sheet metal. I've tried it, with the sandbag and stump methods. I produce something that looks like waves in a stormy sea. g Better luck to you. It requires persistence. -- Ed Huntress I guess you weren't trying to make waves in a stormy sea? You can always sell your failures as modern art! RogerN |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
On Wed, 2 Jun 2010 21:19:55 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:
I've been interested for a long time in auto body work and painting but never had a clunker to play with. Since buying my Ford Ranger, my F-350 will be going up for sale, I hope to sell it within maybe 6 months or so, maybe the 4wd will sell good around snow time. The F-350 I have isn't a show truck but has a good engine and drive train so it's an opportunity for me to try some body work and touch up. I need to know what kind of sheet metal to get to patch some holes, it needs to be formable, weldable, and close to the thickness of auto body steel. I wouldn't mind having a little extra, I'd like to try forming with hammers, sand bags, and perhaps make an English Wheel. Also, years back some were claiming to have real good results with the Harbor Freight HVLP paint guns, they liked them better than some of the name brand guns IIRC. Any recommended model of HF paint gun? Any other good tool recommendations that would be useful in auto body? Power sanders/ power wet sander? I have a Porter-Cable random orbit sander for wood, I guess it would work for auto body. Will probably get a slide hammer type puller. Any recommendations on paint? I went to Napa and they want $98.XX for a quart of Oxford White, no metallic, no pearl, no clear, just plain white paint. That's OK if that is what it should cost, just want a reasonable competitive price. Here in Kitchener Ontario there is a place called KW Surplus ( we call it KW Surprise) and they had about 25 gallons of white automotive enamel (Dupli-Color brand, I think) for $31 Canadian per (american) Gallon. So maybe I get to play with making my old truck look better, learning some skills along the way, and it will hopefully help the truck sell better and give the buyer a nicer looking truck. I'm sure I'll spend more than it will help the value but I get to learn something and keep the tools. RogerN |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
On Thu, 3 Jun 2010 11:14:19 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote: "RogerN" wrote in message ... "Steve Lusardi" wrote in message ... Roger, To do this right, you need to make a significant investment in sheet metal tools, which should include a sheer, a brake, rolls, a shrinker, sheet metal hammers, dollies planishing pillows and hammers, as well as several other less significant items. Most of the cost of these can be avoided if you use preformed replacement panels. Of course, this will not help you achieve the skill set of hand forming custom panels, but it does make economic sense. Please also note, that back yard repairs done incorrectly will devalue the vehicle. Please also note that the investment required is not just money, but significant time and very hard work. There are very few people with these old fashioned skill sets still alive today. You will not achieve these with just the experience from one vehicle. Another, not well understood fact is that the sheet metal used in vehicles today is much thinner than what used to be used. Consequently, almost all panel damage results in stretched metal, making panel repair impractical. Additionally, the odds of you achieving the skill set you wish to have is about "0" without instruction from a master. I don't mean to rain on your parade, but you should go into this with your eyes open. Steve "RogerN" wrote in message news The part I want to do the metal work from raw sheet is a hole in the door probably done by Bobcat, the guy I purchased from used it to pull his Bobcat around in his landscaping business. So, that part is sort of in the middle of the door where the metal is fairly flat and it doesn't look rusted, looks like someone put house paint over it. I don't think I want to try to re-skin the door for the hole. The other metal shaping toys are just for fun, I'd like to play with sheet metal and try to learn to shape it like they do on the Chopper TV programs. For the rusted thru above the wheel fenders I plan to try ready made replacement panels. Other than that there are many places where it is scratched or banged up a little, this truck was used to do work and shows is. RogerN Take a look at the Tinman's site: http://www.tinmantech.com/ You've gotten good advice from others about the frustration of working with today's thin body sheet metal, which is often a HSLA (high-strength low-alloy) that is particularly nasty. It work-hardens if you look at it cross-eyed. However, you can have a heck of a lot of fun learning to shape other kinds of sheet metal. I've tried it, with the sandbag and stump methods. I produce something that looks like waves in a stormy sea. g Better luck to you. It requires persistence. For rust repair and damage repair it's best to cut out the damaged area to solid metal and using a "flanger" form a recessed rim around the hole. Then you cut and shape standard body metal (mild steel, not the high strength garbage) to fit into the recess. a couple rivits or sheet metal screws will hold it in place 'till you get it welded - then weld the holes shut (or use what the pros use - "clecos". You can hammer and dolly the seam flat, or just fill the seam with bondo and feather it out. Putting new metal over old rested metal just guarantees the job won't last. - and it makes it REAL hard to make a nice job. |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
"RogerN" wrote in message m... "Ed Huntress" wrote in message ... "RogerN" wrote in message ... "Steve Lusardi" wrote in message ... Roger, To do this right, you need to make a significant investment in sheet metal tools, which should include a sheer, a brake, rolls, a shrinker, sheet metal hammers, dollies planishing pillows and hammers, as well as several other less significant items. Most of the cost of these can be avoided if you use preformed replacement panels. Of course, this will not help you achieve the skill set of hand forming custom panels, but it does make economic sense. Please also note, that back yard repairs done incorrectly will devalue the vehicle. Please also note that the investment required is not just money, but significant time and very hard work. There are very few people with these old fashioned skill sets still alive today. You will not achieve these with just the experience from one vehicle. Another, not well understood fact is that the sheet metal used in vehicles today is much thinner than what used to be used. Consequently, almost all panel damage results in stretched metal, making panel repair impractical. Additionally, the odds of you achieving the skill set you wish to have is about "0" without instruction from a master. I don't mean to rain on your parade, but you should go into this with your eyes open. Steve "RogerN" wrote in message news The part I want to do the metal work from raw sheet is a hole in the door probably done by Bobcat, the guy I purchased from used it to pull his Bobcat around in his landscaping business. So, that part is sort of in the middle of the door where the metal is fairly flat and it doesn't look rusted, looks like someone put house paint over it. I don't think I want to try to re-skin the door for the hole. The other metal shaping toys are just for fun, I'd like to play with sheet metal and try to learn to shape it like they do on the Chopper TV programs. For the rusted thru above the wheel fenders I plan to try ready made replacement panels. Other than that there are many places where it is scratched or banged up a little, this truck was used to do work and shows is. RogerN Take a look at the Tinman's site: http://www.tinmantech.com/ You've gotten good advice from others about the frustration of working with today's thin body sheet metal, which is often a HSLA (high-strength low-alloy) that is particularly nasty. It work-hardens if you look at it cross-eyed. However, you can have a heck of a lot of fun learning to shape other kinds of sheet metal. I've tried it, with the sandbag and stump methods. I produce something that looks like waves in a stormy sea. g Better luck to you. It requires persistence. -- Ed Huntress I guess you weren't trying to make waves in a stormy sea? You can always sell your failures as modern art! RogerN What failures? They were successful experiments. g I was working 3003 aluminum, and it's tricky to shrink it with hand tools. It can be done; you just need to develop some expertise. Like a lot of metalworking pursuits, you have a few choices. If you want to build replica bodies or something, you'll need all the tools or a lifetime of learning and practice. (You'll still need a lot of both, even with all the tools.) Or you can confine yourself to making simple patch panels without much crown, and do it all with hand tools (and the flanger that a couple of folks have mentioned) -- and patience. I had no interest in making a lifetime hobby out of it, so I just tried the hand methods. I made my own wooden hammers and sand bag; I hollowed out a stump with my disc sander; and I made my own slappers. My total investment, including the dollies and metal hammers that I bought, was less than $150. It was fun to play with it and to get an idea of what's involved. And I could see how some people get a lot of pleasure out of it. Doing it well is a real art. If you look at the Tinman's pages, you'll see some of the art at its highest level. -- Ed Huntress |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
RogerN wrote:
"Ed Huntress" wrote in message ... "RogerN" wrote in message ... "Steve Lusardi" wrote in message ... Roger, To do this right, you need to make a significant investment in sheet metal tools, which should include a sheer, a brake, rolls, a shrinker, sheet metal hammers, dollies planishing pillows and hammers, as well as several other less significant items. Most of the cost of these can be avoided if you use preformed replacement panels. Of course, this will not help you achieve the skill set of hand forming custom panels, but it does make economic sense. Please also note, that back yard repairs done incorrectly will devalue the vehicle. Please also note that the investment required is not just money, but significant time and very hard work. There are very few people with these old fashioned skill sets still alive today. You will not achieve these with just the experience from one vehicle. Another, not well understood fact is that the sheet metal used in vehicles today is much thinner than what used to be used. Consequently, almost all panel damage results in stretched metal, making panel repair impractical. Additionally, the odds of you achieving the skill set you wish to have is about "0" without instruction from a master. I don't mean to rain on your parade, but you should go into this with your eyes open. Steve "RogerN" wrote in message news The part I want to do the metal work from raw sheet is a hole in the door probably done by Bobcat, the guy I purchased from used it to pull his Bobcat around in his landscaping business. So, that part is sort of in the middle of the door where the metal is fairly flat and it doesn't look rusted, looks like someone put house paint over it. I don't think I want to try to re-skin the door for the hole. The other metal shaping toys are just for fun, I'd like to play with sheet metal and try to learn to shape it like they do on the Chopper TV programs. For the rusted thru above the wheel fenders I plan to try ready made replacement panels. Other than that there are many places where it is scratched or banged up a little, this truck was used to do work and shows is. RogerN Take a look at the Tinman's site: http://www.tinmantech.com/ You've gotten good advice from others about the frustration of working with today's thin body sheet metal, which is often a HSLA (high-strength low-alloy) that is particularly nasty. It work-hardens if you look at it cross-eyed. However, you can have a heck of a lot of fun learning to shape other kinds of sheet metal. I've tried it, with the sandbag and stump methods. I produce something that looks like waves in a stormy sea. g Better luck to you. It requires persistence. -- Ed Huntress I guess you weren't trying to make waves in a stormy sea? You can always sell your failures as modern art! RogerN Most of the complex parts can be found as patch panels. You basically cut out the old. Leave a small lip, flange the lip so the panel sets flush and MIG or TIG them in. Grind the welds smooth, then apply a THIN layer of filler and board sand it flat. Then use a good primer and finish coat it. Unless you have a nice temperature controlled storage place and don't plan on moving the vehicle while your working on it you may want to shoot the panel with paint as soon as you get each panel done. Doesn't have to be a perfect coat but primer on it's own have a nasty habit of being hygroscopic. -- Steve W. (\___/) (='.'=) (")_(") |
#14
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Auto Body metal working
On Jun 3, 7:45*pm, "Steve W." wrote:
Most of the complex parts can be found as patch panels. You basically cut out the old. Leave a small lip, flange the lip so the panel sets flush and MIG or TIG them in. Grind the welds smooth, then apply a THIN layer of filler and board sand it flat. Then use a good primer and finish coat it. Unless you have a nice temperature controlled storage place and don't plan on moving the vehicle while your working on it you may want to shoot the panel with paint as soon as you get each panel done. Doesn't have to be a perfect coat but primer on it's own have a nasty habit of being hygroscopic. -- Steve W. (\___/) (='.'=) (")_(") Get a current copy of Hot Rod Magazine. Nice article on patching floor pans. Paul |
#15
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Auto Body metal working
Many people go to Eastwood. http://www.eastwood.com/?srccode=ga2...FSCjiQodVEsbFw I've never used them myself so I can't give a personal recommendation. Karl I have used Eastwood for several years, I find them to be just what they say they are fair priced and quick. Roger Paskell |
#16
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Auto Body metal working
"Ed Huntress" wrote in message ... "RogerN" wrote in message m... snip I guess you weren't trying to make waves in a stormy sea? You can always sell your failures as modern art! RogerN What failures? They were successful experiments. g I was working 3003 aluminum, and it's tricky to shrink it with hand tools. It can be done; you just need to develop some expertise. Like a lot of metalworking pursuits, you have a few choices. If you want to build replica bodies or something, you'll need all the tools or a lifetime of learning and practice. (You'll still need a lot of both, even with all the tools.) Or you can confine yourself to making simple patch panels without much crown, and do it all with hand tools (and the flanger that a couple of folks have mentioned) -- and patience. I had no interest in making a lifetime hobby out of it, so I just tried the hand methods. I made my own wooden hammers and sand bag; I hollowed out a stump with my disc sander; and I made my own slappers. My total investment, including the dollies and metal hammers that I bought, was less than $150. It was fun to play with it and to get an idea of what's involved. And I could see how some people get a lot of pleasure out of it. Doing it well is a real art. If you look at the Tinman's pages, you'll see some of the art at its highest level. -- Ed Huntress I'm not wanting to spend the time and money to do auto body professionally or anything like that. The part I would like to form is almost flat, I need to patch a hole in the side of a door, not much shaping to it. One idea I have for rust repair, not sure if it's any good, is to make a male mold by building up a panel with bondo and shaping. Then use that bondo patch to make a mold to lay up fiber glass repair panels. Trim the sheet metal back, knock out the temporary bondo plug used for the mold, and glue the fiberglass patch to the metal. The idea being that the fiberglass wouldn't rust in a place where the metal did. RogerN |
#17
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Auto Body metal working
"JR North" wrote in message ... http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/paint1.html http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/acc2.html BTDT. The HF guns are excellent. You need a good DA sander, an inline sander, and a good sanding block for finishing. Also good quality sandpaper. The cheap stuff will makethe job much harder. http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/ see sander.txt and the accociated jpgs. JC Whitney sells a lot of replacement body repair panels for trucks http://www.jcwhitney.com/ sure to find what you need there. JR Dweller in the cellar Thanks for all the info and links! RogerN |
#18
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Auto Body metal working
One thing I'm wanting to find out about is feathering paint. For example,
if I have a spot to repair, I would sand down the spot and feather the edges to the good paint surface. Then in spraying first coat on the spot, 2nd coat covers a little larger area, and the 3rd coat covers a larger area still. Then after that I guess you use rubbing compound to smooth it all out? If I understand this correctly you are applying the most paint where it's been sanded down the most and getting the new spray thinner as the original paint is thicker (sanded less). If I were capable of doing this perfect the paint would be the same thickness in the touch up area as the factory paint is in other parts of the body. RogerN |
#19
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Auto Body metal working
"RogerN" wrote in message m... "Ed Huntress" wrote in message ... "RogerN" wrote in message m... snip I guess you weren't trying to make waves in a stormy sea? You can always sell your failures as modern art! RogerN What failures? They were successful experiments. g I was working 3003 aluminum, and it's tricky to shrink it with hand tools. It can be done; you just need to develop some expertise. Like a lot of metalworking pursuits, you have a few choices. If you want to build replica bodies or something, you'll need all the tools or a lifetime of learning and practice. (You'll still need a lot of both, even with all the tools.) Or you can confine yourself to making simple patch panels without much crown, and do it all with hand tools (and the flanger that a couple of folks have mentioned) -- and patience. I had no interest in making a lifetime hobby out of it, so I just tried the hand methods. I made my own wooden hammers and sand bag; I hollowed out a stump with my disc sander; and I made my own slappers. My total investment, including the dollies and metal hammers that I bought, was less than $150. It was fun to play with it and to get an idea of what's involved. And I could see how some people get a lot of pleasure out of it. Doing it well is a real art. If you look at the Tinman's pages, you'll see some of the art at its highest level. -- Ed Huntress I'm not wanting to spend the time and money to do auto body professionally or anything like that. The part I would like to form is almost flat, I need to patch a hole in the side of a door, not much shaping to it. One idea I have for rust repair, not sure if it's any good, is to make a male mold by building up a panel with bondo and shaping. Then use that bondo patch to make a mold to lay up fiber glass repair panels. Trim the sheet metal back, knock out the temporary bondo plug used for the mold, and glue the fiberglass patch to the metal. The idea being that the fiberglass wouldn't rust in a place where the metal did. RogerN Interesting thought. I would anticipate trouble. I made extensive fiberglass rust-repair patches on my mother's '69 T-bird, in the '70s. I was pretty good with fiberglass then because I had been a bonder at Ranger Yachts. I used Plaster of Paris to make a male mold over the rusted-out areas, and then to pull the female mold from that. That, too, is a material I had a lot of experience with at the time. We could write a book about this but here are some basic issues: Although Bondo is filled polyester, and it works as a body filler, it doesn't get a very good bond to steel. The chemical bond is almost nonexistent; most of what you get is a mechanical, cogging bond with freshly ground and roughened metal. I realize it isn't Bondo that you're talking about for the final patch, but you should be aware that polyester in general makes a lousy adhesive, compared to epoxy. I actually used epoxy on the fiberglass cloth to make my first patches, because it gets a much better bond to steel. It's very difficult to work with on vertical surfaces and with fiberglass cloth (you *must* use cloth and mat made for use with epoxy if you're going to use that stuff for your resin). Polyester is much easier. You can consider making patches out of polyester and fiberglass and then bonding them to the steel with epoxy, but polyester and epoxy, too, get only a weak bond. The bond between them is almost all mechanical, too, because epoxy doesn't bond to styrene, which makes up a fair amount of the polyester resin. You also have to be super careful to remove the amine blush if you're bonding *to* hardened epoxy, and the wax if you're bonding *to* hardened polyester. Soap and water remove the blush. Sanding is useless to remove amine; it just spreads the amine around. Use acetone to remove the wax from polyester. It will pull off some of the surface styrene, too, which will help. Then you have issues with different coefficients of thermal expansion for steel and fiberglass-reinforced resin. I had one patch pop off at one end on a hot day. I'm not certain why, but I think the differential expansion put a lot of stress on the bond. Anyway, you may find it works perfectly for you, or it may be a mess. One thing I can tell you for su it's a lot harder than you would think, to get the patch level with the steel and smooth. You could cheat with Bondo, but then you have more weakness. Maybe it will be no problem. But I doubt it. -- Ed Huntress |
#20
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Auto Body metal working
wrote in message ... On Jun 2, 4:19 pm, "RogerN" wrote: Any recommendations on paint? I went to Napa and they want $98.XX for a quart of Oxford White, no metallic, no pearl, no clear, just plain white paint. That's OK if that is what it should cost, just want a reasonable competitive price. I get my auto paint at Finishmaster - sometimes you can get good deals on ebay too - don't expect to pay $5 per gallon |
#21
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Auto Body metal working
On Thu, 3 Jun 2010 23:50:44 -0400
"Ed Huntress" wrote: big snip Then you have issues with different coefficients of thermal expansion for steel and fiberglass-reinforced resin. I had one patch pop off at one end on a hot day. I'm not certain why, but I think the differential expansion put a lot of stress on the bond. My tutor liked fiberglass, has worked well for me, takes some learning though... I've had the best luck with mat (see no use for cloth in body repair), resin and sometimes adding some gel for a thicker consistency. Try to have some fiberglass/resin behind, metal and fiberglass/resin on top. In other words sandwich the metal a bit in between. Some holes drilled through the metal, with some fiber & resin oozing through seems to work too. Make sure you lay enough fiberglass (thick enough) to be able to sand it off smooth/flush with the original surface. On a hot, dry day you can keep working & playing with the patch till it starts to set, can be helpful in vertical applications. Can get you in a lot of trouble too if it sets too fast and you aren't quite ready for it Rough up any low spots and fill with bondo/filler. Prime, paint. Fiberglass has the advantage of not burning off the backside of the metal panel which may be hard to get at afterwards to rustproof. If I was just doing some touch up on a truck like you describe, I would see how well a rattle can Rustoleum type white paint matched. Learned a long time ago it isn't worth the hassle of trying for a super-duper paint job in ones driveway or dirty garage. I've had rust reappear overnight, didn't allow myself enough time to get a paint gun loaded up and shoot it after rust cleanup... -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#22
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Auto Body metal working
On Jun 3, 9:29*pm, "RogerN" wrote:
"Ed Huntress" wrote in message ... "RogerN" wrote in message om... snip I guess you weren't trying to make waves in a stormy sea? *You can always sell your failures as modern art! RogerN What failures? They were successful experiments. g I was working 3003 aluminum, and it's tricky to shrink it with hand tools. It can be done; you just need to develop some expertise. Like a lot of metalworking pursuits, you have a few choices. If you want to build replica bodies or something, you'll need all the tools or a lifetime of learning and practice. (You'll still need a lot of both, even with all the tools.) Or you can confine yourself to making simple patch panels without much crown, and do it all with hand tools (and the flanger that a couple of folks have mentioned) -- and patience. I had no interest in making a lifetime hobby out of it, so I just tried the hand methods. I made my own wooden hammers and sand bag; I hollowed out a stump with my disc sander; and I made my own slappers. My total investment, including the dollies and metal hammers that I bought, was less than $150. It was fun to play with it and to get an idea of what's involved. And I could see how some people get a lot of pleasure out of it. Doing it well is a real art. If you look at the Tinman's pages, you'll see some of the art at its highest level. -- Ed Huntress I'm not wanting to spend the time and money to do auto body professionally or anything like that. *The part I would like to form is almost flat, I need to patch a hole in the side of a door, not much shaping to it. *One idea I have for rust repair, not sure if it's any good, is to make a male mold by building up a panel with bondo and shaping. *Then use that bondo patch to make a mold to lay up fiber glass repair panels. *Trim the sheet metal back, knock out the temporary bondo plug used for the mold, and glue the fiberglass patch to the metal. *The idea being that the fiberglass wouldn't rust in a place where the metal did. RogerN- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Before I had welding equipment, I did a bunch of that on the VW. Some held, some didn't. The stuff that held was done with fiberglass mat and repair gel from one of the local chain parts places. The approach was to cut the hole back to solid metal, ding the edges in slightly, remove rust and paint to bare metal, hit everything with a phosphate rust-converter wash, then clean everything off to squeakiness with acetone(was cheap when I did it). I cut a chunk of mat for the back side, one for the front side and then made up a holder from thin welding filler rod. This had an L hook bent into it, the purpose was to hold the back in place while plastering the front piece on. The idea was to sandwich the existing metal at the edges, approximate the contours of the surface and hold things together while the gel set, about 5-10 minutes in the summer. I had a poly board made for mixing bondo that I used for the gel and a bunch of scraper/spatula applicators of various sizes intended for bondo. They worked well for impregnating the mat and anything stuck on just popped off afterwards. After the stuff set up, I left it for a day and went at it with body files, sander and block. Looked OK after it was primed and painted, the places where I filled in the rocker panel holes don't even show 10 years later. Was not so lucky on inner fender holes, had to be redone about 5 years later. Probably too much flexing and impacts from road trash and rocks. Now I'd just weld patches on. So it CAN be done. If the damage is in an area where fuel lines run and you'd rather not drop the tank and flush things out, fiberglass repairs might be the answer. Need absolutely clean metal for it to stick. I really liked the gel for this, regular resin would just run away. Stan |
#23
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Auto Body metal working
On Thu, 03 Jun 2010 22:45:43 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote: Most of the complex parts can be found as patch panels. You basically cut out the old. Leave a small lip, flange the lip so the panel sets flush and MIG or TIG them in. Or even braze (or solder) them Grind the welds smooth, then apply a THIN layer of filler and board sand it flat. Then use a good primer and finish coat it. Unless you have a nice temperature controlled storage place and don't plan on moving the vehicle while your working on it you may want to shoot the panel with paint as soon as you get each panel done. Doesn't have to be a perfect coat but primer on it's own have a nasty habit of being hygroscopic. |
#24
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Auto Body metal working
On Thu, 3 Jun 2010 22:40:56 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:
One thing I'm wanting to find out about is feathering paint. For example, if I have a spot to repair, I would sand down the spot and feather the edges to the good paint surface. Then in spraying first coat on the spot, 2nd coat covers a little larger area, and the 3rd coat covers a larger area still. Then after that I guess you use rubbing compound to smooth it all out? If I understand this correctly you are applying the most paint where it's been sanded down the most and getting the new spray thinner as the original paint is thicker (sanded less). If I were capable of doing this perfect the paint would be the same thickness in the touch up area as the factory paint is in other parts of the body. RogerN Much simpler to just use a fast-build primer - feather that, and paint the whole panel (door) |
#25
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Auto Body metal working
"Ed Huntress" wrote in message ... Interesting thought. I would anticipate trouble. I made extensive fiberglass rust-repair patches on my mother's '69 T-bird, in the '70s. I was pretty good with fiberglass then because I had been a bonder at Ranger Yachts. I used Plaster of Paris to make a male mold over the rusted-out areas, and then to pull the female mold from that. That, too, is a material I had a lot of experience with at the time. We could write a book about this but here are some basic issues: Although Bondo is filled polyester, and it works as a body filler, it doesn't get a very good bond to steel. The chemical bond is almost nonexistent; most of what you get is a mechanical, cogging bond with freshly ground and roughened metal. I realize it isn't Bondo that you're talking about for the final patch, but you should be aware that polyester in general makes a lousy adhesive, compared to epoxy. I actually used epoxy on the fiberglass cloth to make my first patches, because it gets a much better bond to steel. It's very difficult to work with on vertical surfaces and with fiberglass cloth (you *must* use cloth and mat made for use with epoxy if you're going to use that stuff for your resin). Polyester is much easier. You can consider making patches out of polyester and fiberglass and then bonding them to the steel with epoxy, but polyester and epoxy, too, get only a weak bond. The bond between them is almost all mechanical, too, because epoxy doesn't bond to styrene, which makes up a fair amount of the polyester resin. You also have to be super careful to remove the amine blush if you're bonding *to* hardened epoxy, and the wax if you're bonding *to* hardened polyester. Soap and water remove the blush. Sanding is useless to remove amine; it just spreads the amine around. Use acetone to remove the wax from polyester. It will pull off some of the surface styrene, too, which will help. Then you have issues with different coefficients of thermal expansion for steel and fiberglass-reinforced resin. I had one patch pop off at one end on a hot day. I'm not certain why, but I think the differential expansion put a lot of stress on the bond. Anyway, you may find it works perfectly for you, or it may be a mess. One thing I can tell you for su it's a lot harder than you would think, to get the patch level with the steel and smooth. You could cheat with Bondo, but then you have more weakness. Maybe it will be no problem. But I doubt it. -- Ed Huntress My fiberglass experience is limited to once making a fiberglass part for an R/C helicopter and making a couple of R/C boats by making a foam hull shape and glassing it. Also put glass cloth over a wooden model R/C hydroplane. I've always used epoxy with glass cloth, most of my glass cloth came from Wal-Mart, some from hobby suppliers. I also have a fiberglass kit for training to build homebuilt aircraft with the glass over foam method, but I never used the stuff yet. So my fiberglass experience is limited but varied. I thought maybe cut out the rusted area, treat the metal remaining, and epoxy (or better) the glass part into place. RogerN |
#26
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Auto Body metal working
wrote in message ... On Thu, 3 Jun 2010 22:40:56 -0500, "RogerN" wrote: One thing I'm wanting to find out about is feathering paint. For example, if I have a spot to repair, I would sand down the spot and feather the edges to the good paint surface. Then in spraying first coat on the spot, 2nd coat covers a little larger area, and the 3rd coat covers a larger area still. Then after that I guess you use rubbing compound to smooth it all out? If I understand this correctly you are applying the most paint where it's been sanded down the most and getting the new spray thinner as the original paint is thicker (sanded less). If I were capable of doing this perfect the paint would be the same thickness in the touch up area as the factory paint is in other parts of the body. RogerN Much simpler to just use a fast-build primer - feather that, and paint the whole panel (door) What about for just a paint chip area (front of hood perhaps)? Would it be better to repaint the whole hood for a few chips or sand, paint, and compound? RogerN |
#27
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Auto Body metal working
"RogerN" wrote in message news "Ed Huntress" wrote in message ... Interesting thought. I would anticipate trouble. I made extensive fiberglass rust-repair patches on my mother's '69 T-bird, in the '70s. I was pretty good with fiberglass then because I had been a bonder at Ranger Yachts. I used Plaster of Paris to make a male mold over the rusted-out areas, and then to pull the female mold from that. That, too, is a material I had a lot of experience with at the time. We could write a book about this but here are some basic issues: Although Bondo is filled polyester, and it works as a body filler, it doesn't get a very good bond to steel. The chemical bond is almost nonexistent; most of what you get is a mechanical, cogging bond with freshly ground and roughened metal. I realize it isn't Bondo that you're talking about for the final patch, but you should be aware that polyester in general makes a lousy adhesive, compared to epoxy. I actually used epoxy on the fiberglass cloth to make my first patches, because it gets a much better bond to steel. It's very difficult to work with on vertical surfaces and with fiberglass cloth (you *must* use cloth and mat made for use with epoxy if you're going to use that stuff for your resin). Polyester is much easier. You can consider making patches out of polyester and fiberglass and then bonding them to the steel with epoxy, but polyester and epoxy, too, get only a weak bond. The bond between them is almost all mechanical, too, because epoxy doesn't bond to styrene, which makes up a fair amount of the polyester resin. You also have to be super careful to remove the amine blush if you're bonding *to* hardened epoxy, and the wax if you're bonding *to* hardened polyester. Soap and water remove the blush. Sanding is useless to remove amine; it just spreads the amine around. Use acetone to remove the wax from polyester. It will pull off some of the surface styrene, too, which will help. Then you have issues with different coefficients of thermal expansion for steel and fiberglass-reinforced resin. I had one patch pop off at one end on a hot day. I'm not certain why, but I think the differential expansion put a lot of stress on the bond. Anyway, you may find it works perfectly for you, or it may be a mess. One thing I can tell you for su it's a lot harder than you would think, to get the patch level with the steel and smooth. You could cheat with Bondo, but then you have more weakness. Maybe it will be no problem. But I doubt it. -- Ed Huntress My fiberglass experience is limited to once making a fiberglass part for an R/C helicopter and making a couple of R/C boats by making a foam hull shape and glassing it. Also put glass cloth over a wooden model R/C hydroplane. I've always used epoxy with glass cloth, most of my glass cloth came from Wal-Mart, some from hobby suppliers. I also have a fiberglass kit for training to build homebuilt aircraft with the glass over foam method, but I never used the stuff yet. So my fiberglass experience is limited but varied. I thought maybe cut out the rusted area, treat the metal remaining, and epoxy (or better) the glass part into place. RogerN I've used a lot of fiberglass, with both epoxy and polyester (and some dabbling with vinylester), and what I tell people who want to try things like you're suggesting is to do it, and see what works for you. You can always cut it out and start over. There are standardized methods like the mat patches discussed by others in this thread, and they work as well as anything, but if you're talking about making a male and female mold, that ain't a standard method for vehicle body patches. You'll have to work it out on your own. As I said, I tried much the same thing, with mixed results, over 30 years ago. I went through 50 gallons of polyester every two or three days when I worked at Ranger Yachts. I'd just as soon forget it, to tell you the truth. But working in shirts covered with globs of polyester and fiberglass needles every day, and leaving the seat of my car bloody as I drove home, from the rips in my butt that came from rubbing up against raw edges of hull layups before they were trimmed, did give me material for an essay that landed me a writing job at McGraw-Hill. d8-) We could talk about this forever but you really have to just do it and see. The few basics we've discussed, such as the inter-bonding capabilities of steel, polyester, and epoxy, and treating the hardened resin for further bonds, may save you some heartbreak. But making shapes with the material itself really requires hands-on experience. Regarding the cloth and mat: The binder in regular mat is made to dissolve in polyester resin (actually, I think it's the styrene that dissolves the binder). It will not dissolve in epoxy. If you use epoxy with common mat, you will have one hell of a mess and you probably won't be able to wet it thoroughly. I suppose you know that you can't use polyester with styrofoam. The foam will dissolve. It works fine with epoxy, but use polyurethane foam if you're going to use polyester resin. Cloth is less of a problem, but the "chrome" finish on boat repair cloth, and most cloth you can buy through ordinary retail channels, is made to get a good bond with polyester. I'm told it doesn't bond properly with epoxy. My experience with it is inconclusive -- I can wet it out with epoxy, but I don't know how good the bonds are, compared to layups made with the proper cloth. Commercial users of epoxy/cloth layups use cloth made specifically for use with epoxy resin. If you want an expert answer, call the guys at WEST System. They're very helpful, in my experience. And they really know their stuff. Treat it as a learning experience and you may well enjoy it. But expect things to go some way you didn't expect. It's very hard to anticipate how that material will behave until you've had some experience with the specific kind of application. And remember, epoxy drools. g It's anti-thixotropic, and thickening it up only makes the situation a little better. Adding fumed silica will make it slightly thixotropic and it does help. Polyester is much easier to work with. They use it as the basis of Bondo for some very good reasons, even though it's a lot weaker than epoxy, and it doesn't bond to steel nearly as well. -- Ed Huntress |
#28
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Auto Body metal working
"JR North" wrote in message ... Nope. You can't use paint to fill an area. It should already be uniform before shooting. Not even a good idea to load an area up with primer. It shrinks over time, and the repair will start to show after a few months. Use body filler, and feather that to the best uniform surface you can. Prime, finish sand to 320 THEN paint. JR Dweller in the cellar If the body filler is level with the existing paint, then the new paint would be above that level, wouldn't you want your body filler to be 1 paint thickness below the surface of the old paint? For example, if you sand off 0.004" of paint, fill that with body filler, then shoot it with 0.004" of new paint, the final surface is 0.004 above the old surface. However it would seem that if you removed 0.004" paint, then repainted with 0.004" of paint, the surface should be even. Even if your paint shrunk 25% you would have paint 0.001" low instead of 0.003" high. But like someone mentioned earlier, it's probably easier to spray an entire panel than it is to spray a spot and try to blend, not sure though. RogerN |
#29
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Auto Body metal working
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#30
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Auto Body metal working
"JR North" wrote in message ... You are focused too much on the thickness thing. Paint layer is acually very thin. Depending on the quality of the factory application, you may find the sealer/base coat/ paint layer to be several thou thick. You can't make this up with just paint, and as I said, not good to load it up with primer. Unless your truck is gloss black, it *doesn't matter* if the new paint is a thou high, what matters more is the feathering/ transition area, and, of course, color match. Pointless to spot repair a lot of small areas to color-it's going to end up looking like Hell. DA the whole thing after you do the metal work , and let Maaco shoot it. revisit http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/paint1.html JR Dweller in the cellar Ok, I can see how it would be difficult to rebuild the surface precision enough, though someday I may try just for the learning. I was thinking of sanding down original primer, paint and clear and trying to replace with near equal thickness of primer, base, and clear (My 1992 truck doesn't use clear though, saves a step). I guess an interesting thing would be to see if any of the local colleges would like to repair my truck body for a reasonable price, I've heard of some doing this for about the price of materials. But my goal is not so much to have a perfect truck body as it is to learn some bodywork and painting skills I can apply on other vehicles. Kind of like when you make a hammer in High School metal shop class, the hammer is of little value but what you learn by making it can be valuable. Anyway, after I get my experimenting and practicing done to my satisfaction, I may take it and have the whole thing sprayed. I figure my home compressor will be sufficient for touch up and detail but I don't think I could paint a car with that small of a compressor (though I could hook up 2 of my compressors and probably have enough air). RogerN |
#31
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
On Fri, 4 Jun 2010 21:19:01 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:
wrote in message .. . On Thu, 3 Jun 2010 22:40:56 -0500, "RogerN" wrote: One thing I'm wanting to find out about is feathering paint. For example, if I have a spot to repair, I would sand down the spot and feather the edges to the good paint surface. Then in spraying first coat on the spot, 2nd coat covers a little larger area, and the 3rd coat covers a larger area still. Then after that I guess you use rubbing compound to smooth it all out? If I understand this correctly you are applying the most paint where it's been sanded down the most and getting the new spray thinner as the original paint is thicker (sanded less). If I were capable of doing this perfect the paint would be the same thickness in the touch up area as the factory paint is in other parts of the body. RogerN Much simpler to just use a fast-build primer - feather that, and paint the whole panel (door) What about for just a paint chip area (front of hood perhaps)? Would it be better to repaint the whole hood for a few chips or sand, paint, and compound? RogerN If you want the repair to "disappear" do the whole hood. Most paints today are spec'ed as whole panel, and don't blend well. Sand the whole hood through the clear-cote to colour, clean out the chips, acid treat them, fill them, feather them, and repaint the whole hood. |
#32
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 05:45:15 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:
"JR North" wrote in message .. . Nope. You can't use paint to fill an area. It should already be uniform before shooting. Not even a good idea to load an area up with primer. It shrinks over time, and the repair will start to show after a few months. Use body filler, and feather that to the best uniform surface you can. Prime, finish sand to 320 THEN paint. JR Dweller in the cellar If the body filler is level with the existing paint, then the new paint would be above that level, wouldn't you want your body filler to be 1 paint thickness below the surface of the old paint? For example, if you sand off 0.004" of paint, fill that with body filler, then shoot it with 0.004" of new paint, the final surface is 0.004 above the old surface. However it would seem that if you removed 0.004" paint, then repainted with 0.004" of paint, the surface should be even. Even if your paint shrunk 25% you would have paint 0.001" low instead of 0.003" high. But like someone mentioned earlier, it's probably easier to spray an entire panel than it is to spray a spot and try to blend, not sure though. RogerN A pro body man will do the whole panel.. A lot of "so-called" body men will try to "blend" the paint - and the clear-coat will peel off in less than 2 years. I won't let even an insurance job "blend in" a panel on any of my vehicles any more. Kid brother used to be one of the best auto-body men (and painters) around until he got sensitized to isocyanates. Really nasty stuff. |
#33
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
On Fri, 4 Jun 2010 23:10:15 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote: Regarding the cloth and mat: The binder in regular mat is made to dissolve in polyester resin (actually, I think it's the styrene that dissolves the binder). It will not dissolve in epoxy. If you use epoxy with common mat, you will have one hell of a mess and you probably won't be able to wet it thoroughly. I suppose you know that you can't use polyester with styrofoam. The foam will dissolve. It works fine with epoxy, but use polyurethane foam if you're going to use polyester resin. Cloth is less of a problem, but the "chrome" finish on boat repair cloth, and most cloth you can buy through ordinary retail channels, is made to get a good bond with polyester. I'm told it doesn't bond properly with epoxy. My experience with it is inconclusive -- I can wet it out with epoxy, but I don't know how good the bonds are, compared to layups made with the proper cloth. Commercial users of epoxy/cloth layups use cloth made specifically for use with epoxy resin. If you want an expert answer, call the guys at WEST System. They're very helpful, in my experience. And they really know their stuff. Hello Ed, My understanding is that fiberglass *mat* is made specifically to work with polyester resin, as you've said. But fiberglass *cloth* seems to work well with either epoxy or polyester. I have not yet seen a vendor who sells different kinds of cloth for epoxy and for polyester---though I'm certainly willing to be proved wrong... :-) I've been told that there are certain surface active agents (soaps, if you will) that may be added to epoxy resin; they displace water and enhance bonding of the epoxy to the glass. Most users I know do not use these agents, though. The rocketry bunch at www.rocketryonline.com and www.rocketryplanet.com does a lot of work with fiberglass---literally thousands of large rockets have been built this way--- and it's almost exclusively with epoxy as the binder. A lot of these guys do some work indoors and I'm pretty sure that most would be divorced or kilt or worse if they used polyester resin. :-) -- Best -- Terry |
#34
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 15:01:37 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:
Anyway, after I get my experimenting and practicing done to my satisfaction, I may take it and have the whole thing sprayed. I figure my home compressor will be sufficient for touch up and detail but I don't think I could paint a car with that small of a compressor (though I could hook up 2 of my compressors and probably have enough air). Roger, I painted the right front fender of my Corolla with an ersatz HVLP paint gun and my home compressor. The compressor is 110 v 14 amp (I think) so it's definitely not a monster. It's a rollabout job with two tires. The paint gun was an el-cheapo HF HVLP gun, about $15. I had to thin the paint rather a lot but it still worked well. The compressor was originally purchased to "paint" the tile and bathtub in the girls' bathroom, using a similar but larger gun. (For various reasons we couldn't easily replace the tub during renovation, and 1960's Vomitous Beige-Pink was considered an unsatisfactory color by the wife). Worked beautifully, and no one who has seen the job has ever guessed that it was a re-coat except the guy who noticed the one spot where it ran a bit. -- Best -- Terry |
#35
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
On Jun 2, 10:19*pm, "RogerN" wrote:
Any recommendations on paint? *I went to Napa and they want $98.XX for a quart of Oxford White, no metallic, no pearl, no clear, just plain white paint. *That's OK if that is what it should cost, just want a reasonable competitive price. RogerN Not a recommendation, but a question. Has anyone tried the water based automotive paints from Du Pont? I have not been able to find any cost data on them, or comments by users. Dan |
#36
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
"Terry" wrote in message ... On Fri, 4 Jun 2010 23:10:15 -0400, "Ed Huntress" wrote: Regarding the cloth and mat: The binder in regular mat is made to dissolve in polyester resin (actually, I think it's the styrene that dissolves the binder). It will not dissolve in epoxy. If you use epoxy with common mat, you will have one hell of a mess and you probably won't be able to wet it thoroughly. I suppose you know that you can't use polyester with styrofoam. The foam will dissolve. It works fine with epoxy, but use polyurethane foam if you're going to use polyester resin. Cloth is less of a problem, but the "chrome" finish on boat repair cloth, and most cloth you can buy through ordinary retail channels, is made to get a good bond with polyester. I'm told it doesn't bond properly with epoxy. My experience with it is inconclusive -- I can wet it out with epoxy, but I don't know how good the bonds are, compared to layups made with the proper cloth. Commercial users of epoxy/cloth layups use cloth made specifically for use with epoxy resin. If you want an expert answer, call the guys at WEST System. They're very helpful, in my experience. And they really know their stuff. Hello Ed, My understanding is that fiberglass *mat* is made specifically to work with polyester resin, as you've said. But fiberglass *cloth* seems to work well with either epoxy or polyester. I have not yet seen a vendor who sells different kinds of cloth for epoxy and for polyester---though I'm certainly willing to be proved wrong... :-) It may be, Terry. When I was working with lots of the material, some source I read said that large-scale users of epoxy for layups used a grade of glass cloth that didn't have the "chrome" finish used on cloth made for polyester, because the chrome finish wasn't compatible with epoxy. As I said, I don't know, because I've not used that much of it and never ran any tests. However, at the time, S-glass was available with and without the finish. I bought some for a project, without the finish, for use with epoxy. Again, I never ran any comparative tests to see how it worked out. My tests are kind of crude, anyway. g I've been told that there are certain surface active agents (soaps, if you will) that may be added to epoxy resin; they displace water and enhance bonding of the epoxy to the glass. Most users I know do not use these agents, though. It's become very sophisticated in recent years. I'd have to spend some time catching up to see what's available today. BTW, I was using pre-preg at the end of that time, which I grew to really like. If you refrigerate it just right, you can handle it like a sheet of rubber. It's really good for some home projects but you need to know someone in the business, because you have to buy pretty large quantities of it at a time. I was getting mine from Zeston Corp. until they sold out to Johns-Manville. They'd let me cut off as much as I wanted. What a deal! Most of that stuff is A-B cure, but Zeston had some with an amine hardener, or some other RTC hardener, that let you cure it at room temperature. The rocketry bunch at www.rocketryonline.com and www.rocketryplanet.com does a lot of work with fiberglass---literally thousands of large rockets have been built this way--- and it's almost exclusively with epoxy as the binder. A lot of these guys do some work indoors and I'm pretty sure that most would be divorced or kilt or worse if they used polyester resin. :-) -- Best -- Terry Their rockets would droop, anyway. g I'll bet they know the latest. I'll have to save those links. Thanks. BTW, what's the latest word on vinylester? I haven't seen much about it recently. R.Q. Riley uses it for his carbon-fiber recumbent bicycle, because, he says, you can use it with carbon fiber without the need to vacuum-bag it. Do the rocket guys use vinylester for anything? -- Ed Huntress |
#37
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
wrote in message ... On Jun 2, 10:19 pm, "RogerN" wrote: Any recommendations on paint? I went to Napa and they want $98.XX for a quart of Oxford White, no metallic, no pearl, no clear, just plain white paint. That's OK if that is what it should cost, just want a reasonable competitive price. RogerN Not a recommendation, but a question. Has anyone tried the water based automotive paints from Du Pont? I have not been able to find any cost data on them, or comments by users. Dan Has to be good. Is all that is allowed for color coat in at least one state. California. |
#38
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
"JR North" wrote in message ... You are focused too much on the thickness thing. Paint layer is acually very thin. Depending on the quality of the factory application, you may find the sealer/base coat/ paint layer to be several thou thick. You can't make this up with just paint, and as I said, not good to load it up with primer. Unless your truck is gloss black, it *doesn't matter* if the new paint is a thou high, what matters more is the feathering/ transition area, and, of course, color match. Pointless to spot repair a lot of small areas to color-it's going to end up looking like Hell. DA the whole thing after you do the metal work , and let Maaco shoot it. revisit http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/paint1.html JR Dweller in the cellar I got a chance to do a little playing this weekend. A trip to the auto supply turned up a Dupli-Color spray can in Oxford white for something to play with. I took my Porter Cable random orbit sander with 220 grit paper(the finest I could find for it) and sanded down some areas that needed touched up. The sand paper was quite aggressive right at first but after a little wear it seemed OK. After sanding and feathering I wet sanded with 320, then dried and cleaned everything. I shot some self etching primer on the areas that got to bare metal. Cleaned off everything with wax remover and sprayed a few coats of paint. After drying there was a dry area around the area I sprayed, I wet sanded that area with 1500 until it felt smooth. Then I used rubbing compound with a wool bonnet on a DeWalt 849 polisher/buffer and polished it all smooth and glossy. It's difficult to tell what is new paint and what is old paint as far as transition but the area with new paint has no chips or other imperfections. I guess the bottom line would be that it would be better to fix it all and spray it all, just like JR said. But I was wanting to learn about blending in an area by sanding and polishing and it seemed to work well enough. That would be useful for a chip or scratch in a vehicle that doesn't need a paint job. My truck that I'm practicing on is a 92 F-350 Diesel that started as an FS truck and was then used in a landscape business, so it's scratched and dinged all over, except the couple of places I touched it up :-) The truck seems to have been kept up mechanically and drive train but the body has been somewhat neglected. I'm wanting to get a little bondo practice with it, a little more touch up, and then I'll start trying to sell it. Then I may attempt to touch up scratches in my Ranger, it has metallic paint and clear coat and I'm sure will be somewhat more difficult to make a touch up look right. RogerN |
#39
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
On Sun, 6 Jun 2010 13:28:17 -0700, "Califbill"
wrote: wrote in message ... On Jun 2, 10:19 pm, "RogerN" wrote: Any recommendations on paint? I went to Napa and they want $98.XX for a quart of Oxford White, no metallic, no pearl, no clear, just plain white paint. That's OK if that is what it should cost, just want a reasonable competitive price. RogerN Not a recommendation, but a question. Has anyone tried the water based automotive paints from Du Pont? I have not been able to find any cost data on them, or comments by users. Dan Has to be good. Is all that is allowed for color coat in at least one state. California. Used almost exclusively by american manufacturers - and very extensively in automotive refinishing shops across North America and Europe. |
#40
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Auto Body metal working
Here's a weird idea, could you use a computer scanner for paint matching? Scan some of the original paint, get an average CYMK or similar reading on an area, get some readings scanning base colors and figure out how much of what to mix, try a sample, read with scanner, adjust for better match... May have a lot of trouble with metalics or candy colors though. |
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