On Thu, 3 Jun 2010 11:14:19 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"RogerN" wrote in message
...

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Roger,
To do this right, you need to make a significant investment in sheet
metal tools, which should include a sheer, a brake, rolls, a shrinker,
sheet metal hammers, dollies planishing pillows and hammers, as well as
several other less significant items. Most of the cost of these can be
avoided if you use preformed replacement panels. Of course, this will not
help you achieve the skill set of hand forming custom panels, but it does
make economic sense. Please also note, that back yard repairs done
incorrectly will devalue the vehicle. Please also note that the
investment required is not just money, but significant time and very hard
work. There are very few people with these old fashioned skill sets still
alive today. You will not achieve these with just the experience from one
vehicle. Another, not well understood fact is that the sheet metal used
in vehicles today is much thinner than what used to be used.
Consequently, almost all panel damage results in stretched metal, making
panel repair impractical. Additionally, the odds of you achieving the
skill set you wish to have is about "0" without instruction from a
master. I don't mean to rain on your parade, but you should go into this
with your eyes open.
Steve

"RogerN" wrote in message
news

The part I want to do the metal work from raw sheet is a hole in the door
probably done by Bobcat, the guy I purchased from used it to pull his
Bobcat around in his landscaping business. So, that part is sort of in
the middle of the door where the metal is fairly flat and it doesn't look
rusted, looks like someone put house paint over it. I don't think I want
to try to re-skin the door for the hole. The other metal shaping toys are
just for fun, I'd like to play with sheet metal and try to learn to shape
it like they do on the Chopper TV programs. For the rusted thru above the
wheel fenders I plan to try ready made replacement panels. Other than
that there are many places where it is scratched or banged up a little,
this truck was used to do work and shows is.

RogerN

Take a look at the Tinman's site:

http://www.tinmantech.com/

You've gotten good advice from others about the frustration of working with
today's thin body sheet metal, which is often a HSLA (high-strength
low-alloy) that is particularly nasty. It work-hardens if you look at it
cross-eyed.

However, you can have a heck of a lot of fun learning to shape other kinds
of sheet metal. I've tried it, with the sandbag and stump methods. I produce
something that looks like waves in a stormy sea. g Better luck to you. It
requires persistence.
For rust repair and damage repair it's best to cut out the damaged
area to solid metal and using a "flanger" form a recessed rim around
the hole. Then you cut and shape standard body metal (mild steel, not
the high strength garbage) to fit into the recess. a couple rivits or
sheet metal screws will hold it in place 'till you get it welded -
then weld the holes shut (or use what the pros use - "clecos". You can
hammer and dolly the seam flat, or just fill the seam with bondo and
feather it out. Putting new metal over old rested metal just
guarantees the job won't last. - and it makes it REAL hard to make a
nice job.