We have a "stainless steel grill" from Sam's club. While the outside
is stainless, the burners, as well as the lower grate, are not, and
have almost completely rotted.

I will hopefully replace the burners, if I can find stainless
replacements. I would like to decide how to replace the lower grate. I
doubt that I can find 1:1 replacement for it. The job of the lower
grate is to hold ceramic plates, not meat. It was made of what looks
like steel that rusted almost completely.

I thought to just buy some thicker steel, or stainless, rod and weld
it together. The question is what is the recommended material.

i

Ignoramus11443 wrote:
We have a "stainless steel grill" from Sam's club. While the outside
is stainless, the burners, as well as the lower grate, are not, and
have almost completely rotted.

I will hopefully replace the burners, if I can find stainless
replacements. I would like to decide how to replace the lower grate. I
doubt that I can find 1:1 replacement for it. The job of the lower
grate is to hold ceramic plates, not meat. It was made of what looks
like steel that rusted almost completely.

I thought to just buy some thicker steel, or stainless, rod and weld
it together. The question is what is the recommended material.

i


316L would be top of the line

john

On 2010-03-27, John wrote:
Ignoramus11443 wrote:
We have a "stainless steel grill" from Sam's club. While the outside
is stainless, the burners, as well as the lower grate, are not, and
have almost completely rotted.

I will hopefully replace the burners, if I can find stainless
replacements. I would like to decide how to replace the lower grate. I
doubt that I can find 1:1 replacement for it. The job of the lower
grate is to hold ceramic plates, not meat. It was made of what looks
like steel that rusted almost completely.

I thought to just buy some thicker steel, or stainless, rod and weld
it together. The question is what is the recommended material.

i


316L would be top of the line


John,

1/4" thick, 6 ft long, 316L stainless rods cost $11.08 each at
McMaster-Carr. This is pretty cheap, as I think that three or four
rods will be enough. 316L welds very nicely and should work out well.

304L is cheaper, though, would it practicaly be inferior to 316L for a
grill grate?

i

Ignoramus11443 fired this volley in
:

304L is cheaper, though, would it practicaly be inferior to 316L for a
grill grate?

316 is more corrosion resistant, but all of them lose their corrosion
resistance once heated too high.

If I were you, I'd be looking for some 11ga 316 expanded lath, rather than
going to all the trouble of cutting and welding. Anywhere you weld the
material, unless you re-heat treat it, you'll end up with rust.

LLoyd

Ignoramus11443 wrote:
On 2010-03-27, wrote:
Ignoramus11443 wrote:
We have a "stainless steel grill" from Sam's club. While the outside
is stainless, the burners, as well as the lower grate, are not, and
have almost completely rotted.

I will hopefully replace the burners, if I can find stainless
replacements. I would like to decide how to replace the lower grate. I
doubt that I can find 1:1 replacement for it. The job of the lower
grate is to hold ceramic plates, not meat. It was made of what looks
like steel that rusted almost completely.

I thought to just buy some thicker steel, or stainless, rod and weld
it together. The question is what is the recommended material.

i


316L would be top of the line


John,

1/4" thick, 6 ft long, 316L stainless rods cost $11.08 each at
McMaster-Carr. This is pretty cheap, as I think that three or four
rods will be enough. 316L welds very nicely and should work out well.

304L is cheaper, though, would it practicaly be inferior to 316L for a
grill grate?

i

Actually any of the 300 series stainless steels would work. The 316L has
more nickel in it and is more resistant to corrosion. The L designates
that it is low carbon content and that helps to keep corrosion to a
minimum. The 304 will work fine. Don't use 303 as it has a higher
sulfur content and will not weld well.

John

On 2010-03-27, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Ignoramus11443 fired this volley in
:

304L is cheaper, though, would it practicaly be inferior to 316L for a
grill grate?

316 is more corrosion resistant, but all of them lose their corrosion
resistance once heated too high.

If I were you, I'd be looking for some 11ga 316 expanded lath, rather than
going to all the trouble of cutting and welding. Anywhere you weld the
material, unless you re-heat treat it, you'll end up with rust.

Are they going to rust just on the surface, or all the way through? I
thought that stainless was self passivating.

i

Ignoramus11443 wrote:
On 2010-03-27, Lloyd E. Sponenburghlloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
fired this volley in
:

304L is cheaper, though, would it practicaly be inferior to 316L for a
grill grate?

316 is more corrosion resistant, but all of them lose their corrosion
resistance once heated too high.

If I were you, I'd be looking for some 11ga 316 expanded lath, rather than
going to all the trouble of cutting and welding. Anywhere you weld the
material, unless you re-heat treat it, you'll end up with rust.

Are they going to rust just on the surface, or all the way through? I
thought that stainless was self passivating.

i



The question is how much heat will there be on the metal? If you are
heating up the ceramic bricks and they sit on top of the grate heavy
cast iron will hold up better than stainless.



John

On Mar 27, 6:44*pm, Ignoramus11443 ignoramus11...@NOSPAM.
11443.invalid wrote:
We have a "stainless steel grill" from Sam's club. While the outside
is stainless, the burners, as well as the lower grate, are not, and
have almost completely rotted.


I thought to just buy some thicker steel, or stainless, rod and weld
it together. The question is what is the recommended material.

i

It just depends on how much you want to pay and how long you want it
to last. 309 and 310 are the stainless steels recommended for high
temperatures. But they are really expensive. 316 will last better
than 304 and 304 will do better than rebar. If it were me, I would
probably use some rebar that is thinker than the original. Maybe put
some kiln wash or ceramic enamel on it to slow up the rusting.


Dan

On Mar 27, 3:44*pm, Ignoramus11443 ignoramus11...@NOSPAM.
11443.invalid wrote:
We have a "stainless steel grill" from Sam's club. While the outside
is stainless, the burners, as well as the lower grate, are not, and
have almost completely rotted.

I will hopefully replace the burners, if I can find stainless
replacements. I would like to decide how to replace the lower grate.
...The question is what is the recommended material.

Nickel superalloys, like Kanthal and Inconel X750, do well at
gas-flame temperatures. Short of Boeing Surplus reopening,
I'd not expect to see those on store shelves, though.

In article
,
whit3rd wrote:

On Mar 27, 3:44*pm, Ignoramus11443 ignoramus11...@NOSPAM.
11443.invalid wrote:
We have a "stainless steel grill" from Sam's club. While the outside
is stainless, the burners, as well as the lower grate, are not, and
have almost completely rotted.

I will hopefully replace the burners, if I can find stainless
replacements. I would like to decide how to replace the lower grate.
...The question is what is the recommended material.

Nickel superalloys, like Kanthal and Inconel X750, do well at
gas-flame temperatures. Short of Boeing Surplus reopening,
I'd not expect to see those on store shelves, though.

The burners and lower grate may well have been stainless. Being
stainless and being magically proof against a harsh environment is not
the same thing. You could perhaps try 316L, if you can get some
"affordably" - otherwise use 304 and expect to to rust out, considering
the service environment. 316L probably will also rot out, but may take
longer. Inconel and platinum are great when cost is no object, but cost
is never no object. For the lower grates, some type of ceramic might be
nice, except that it also might crack and dump all your lava rock on the
burner. A clever ceramic construct would eliminate the need for lava
rock (but still might expire from thermal shock.)

Practically speaking, go see what's hanging in the replacement grill
parts section at your hardware store (or on fleabay) and buy some, not
expecting to have it last forever; they are consumable parts. From what
I have seen of "good" commercial grills, I suspect a cast iron burner
will last better than a stainless steel sheetmetal burner, if use is the
primary wear item. If it's sitting out in the wet not being used that
kills it, stainless sheetmetal may work better.

I get 19 results for: gas grill burner replacement stainless

I'm finding one: gas grill rock grate stainless

and it's a pricey thing (yet also available, indicating non-infinite
life, to me) and only in one specific size that might not be yours. TIG
one up from stainless stock.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

On Mar 27, 4:44*pm, Ignoramus11443 ignoramus11...@NOSPAM.
11443.invalid wrote:
We have a "stainless steel grill" from Sam's club. While the outside
is stainless, the burners, as well as the lower grate, are not, and
have almost completely rotted.

I will hopefully replace the burners, if I can find stainless
replacements. I would like to decide how to replace the lower grate. I
doubt that I can find 1:1 replacement for it. The job of the lower
grate is to hold ceramic plates, not meat. It was made of what looks
like steel that rusted almost completely.

I thought to just buy some thicker steel, or stainless, rod and weld
it together. The question is what is the recommended material.

i

I have seen replacements for the lava grates that were ceramic coated,
Lowe's had them at one time, have a couple of aisles worth of grills
and related parts in all the stores around here, YMMV. Grills run
pretty much 12 months of the year here, even in the winter. It gets
down to whether it's cheaper to buy/make new parts than to get a new
grill, they're fairly cheap right now.

Stan

The material of choice is Inconel, but 316 will work. Inconel is designed for high temperature use. 316 is designed for corrosion
resistance.
Steve

"Ignoramus11443" wrote in message ...
We have a "stainless steel grill" from Sam's club. While the outside
is stainless, the burners, as well as the lower grate, are not, and
have almost completely rotted.

I will hopefully replace the burners, if I can find stainless
replacements. I would like to decide how to replace the lower grate. I
doubt that I can find 1:1 replacement for it. The job of the lower
grate is to hold ceramic plates, not meat. It was made of what looks
like steel that rusted almost completely.

I thought to just buy some thicker steel, or stainless, rod and weld
it together. The question is what is the recommended material.

i

On 2010-03-28, Steve Lusardi wrote:

The material of choice is Inconel, but 316 will work. Inconel is
designed for high temperature use. 316 is designed for corrosion
resistance. Steve

I do have some Inconel TIG rod, but it is too thin.

i

Ignoramus11443 wrote:

I thought to just buy some thicker steel, or stainless, rod and weld
it together. The question is what is the recommended material.

In wood burning stoves, cast iron grates out last steel. I don't know if they still exist
but years ago, you would stop at a road side rest and find a cast iron grill for cooking
at many stops. The cooking grate in those was cast iron. They must have known something.

Wes

wrote:
On Mar 27, 6:44 pm, Ignoramus11443 ignoramus11...@NOSPAM.
11443.invalid wrote:
We have a "stainless steel grill" from Sam's club. While the outside
is stainless, the burners, as well as the lower grate, are not, and
have almost completely rotted.


I thought to just buy some thicker steel, or stainless, rod and weld
it together. The question is what is the recommended material.

i

It just depends on how much you want to pay and how long you want it
to last. 309 and 310 are the stainless steels recommended for high
temperatures. But they are really expensive. 316 will last better
than 304 and 304 will do better than rebar. If it were me, I would
probably use some rebar that is thinker than the original. Maybe put
some kiln wash or ceramic enamel on it to slow up the rusting.


Dan

Having owned MANY grills from the cheap one up through the top of the
line ones. There is not a stainless easily available that will take the
heat and not rot.

I would replace the burners with cast iron ones. You may not find ones
exactly like what you have. BUT you could buy ones that are wider and
cut them down easily enough.

For the grid I would find some iron grating and use it. You can get
enameled iron grills for Webers. Or if you visit a fireplace store you
will find the cast iron grates used in stoves and furnaces that burn
wood/coal. Those could easily be cut to fit your grill.

--
Steve W.

"Wes" wrote in message
...
Ignoramus11443 wrote:

I thought to just buy some thicker steel, or stainless, rod and weld
it together. The question is what is the recommended material.

In wood burning stoves, cast iron grates out last steel. I don't know if
they still exist
but years ago, you would stop at a road side rest and find a cast iron
grill for cooking
at many stops. The cooking grate in those was cast iron. They must have
known something.

Wes

We were just talking about cast iron grills on the weekend. I had an
expensive gas grill with castiron grates. Lasted about 1 year at most, when
we were getting chunks of the grate in our steaks. 40 years ago, had a
cheap hibachi, maybe $10 new. Lasted maybe 10 years, and set outside in the
rain and sun. Probably still good hibachi, but wife did not want it moved
to the new house. Handles were gone, etc. But the grate still was good and
still grilled steaks better than most modern grills.

Ignoramus11443 writes:

The question is what is the recommended material.

Nothing will last. You're talking about temperature cycling of 1000s of
deg F, with constant showering of sodium chloride and other corrosive
chemicals from cooking, and storing in a condensing atmosphere.

There is no aerospace superalloy that will stand up to that.

On 2010-03-29, Richard J Kinch wrote:
Ignoramus11443 writes:

The question is what is the recommended material.

Nothing will last. You're talking about temperature cycling of 1000s of
deg F, with constant showering of sodium chloride and other corrosive
chemicals from cooking, and storing in a condensing atmosphere.

There is no aerospace superalloy that will stand up to that.

Would it help to, say, keep a 40 watt lightbulb constantly on, inside
the grill, and/or a grill cover on, to prevent condensation?

In article ,
Ignoramus8246 wrote:

On 2010-03-29, Richard J Kinch wrote:
Ignoramus11443 writes:

The question is what is the recommended material.

Nothing will last. You're talking about temperature cycling of 1000s of
deg F, with constant showering of sodium chloride and other corrosive
chemicals from cooking, and storing in a condensing atmosphere.

There is no aerospace superalloy that will stand up to that.

Would it help to, say, keep a 40 watt lightbulb constantly on, inside
the grill, and/or a grill cover on, to prevent condensation?

At almost a kilowatt-hour per day, 365 days a year, that will cost
considerably more than replacing the grate occasionally. It also only
solves one small part of the problem. Why complicate things so absurdly?

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

On Mar 28, 9:01*pm, Richard J Kinch wrote:

Nothing will last. *You're talking about temperature cycling of 1000s of
deg F, with constant showering of sodium chloride and other corrosive
chemicals from cooking, and storing in a condensing atmosphere.

There is no aerospace superalloy that will stand up to that.

Electric stove elements have a thin layer of chrome-nickel alloy that
stands up, in my experience, rather well. Constant showering
of sodium chloride is ... not my cooking style. That sort of alloy,
Kanthal or
Inconel typical tradenames, is what was suggested.

On Mar 29, 5:58*pm, whit3rd wrote:

Electric stove elements *have a thin layer of chrome-nickel alloy that
stands up, in my experience, rather well. *Constant showering
of sodium chloride is ... not my cooking style. *That sort of alloy,
Kanthal or
Inconel typical tradenames, is what was suggested.

Kanthal is actually an aluminum iron alloy. It does stand up to heat
well as long is it is in an oxidizing atmosphere. The aluminum in the
alloy forms an aluminum oxide on the surface which prevents
corrosion. It isn't an alloy I would try for a barbeque grill as the
atmoshere may somewhat reducing. That and the only form of Kanthal
that I am aware of is wire for heating elements.

Dan