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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Drill press switch query
Actual metalworking content...
Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen again. Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are *four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two. Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector. One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's the hot wire. The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the machine is plugged in. My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please? Best -- Terry |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Drill press switch query
Terry wrote:
Actual metalworking content... Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen again. Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are *four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two. Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector. One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's the hot wire. The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the machine is plugged in. My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please? Best -- Terry Try unplugging the cord and removing the remainder of the switch. Wrap electrical tape around the spade connector with the two red wires on it to insulate it. Connect the two black wires together and plug in the cord. If the motor runs, then you can unplug it, disconnect the two black wires and route them through that 15A wall switch you mentioned. Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight. |
#3
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Drill press switch query
On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 16:29:06 -0500, Terry wrote:
Actual metalworking content... Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen again. Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are *four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two. Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector. One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's the hot wire. The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the machine is plugged in. My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please? What was under the red plastic? Could you just glob some RTV on the rocker, to simulate plastic? Good Luck! Rich |
#4
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Drill press switch query
On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 17:55:00 -0400, jeff_wisnia
wrote: Terry wrote: Actual metalworking content... Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen again. Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are *four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two. Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector. One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's the hot wire. The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the machine is plugged in. My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please? Best -- Terry Try unplugging the cord and removing the remainder of the switch. Wrap electrical tape around the spade connector with the two red wires on it to insulate it. Connect the two black wires together and plug in the cord. If the motor runs, then you can unplug it, disconnect the two black wires and route them through that 15A wall switch you mentioned. Jeff Thanks Jeff! That did it. I'm still wondering about the red wires, though. One appears to be the neutral from the plug, the other appears to be the neutral to the motor. It makes sense that they're connected to one another, of course, but what (in the switch) would they be connected *to*? Not that it matters. I'm drilling again. No worries. Thanks again -- Terry |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Drill press switch query
On Jul 27, 2:29*pm, Terry wrote:
Actual metalworking content... Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen again. *Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are *four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two. Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector. One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's the hot wire. *The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the machine is plugged in. My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. *Help, please? Best -- Terry OK. Best guess: The two black are the hot incoming and the motor. The two red are the cold/neutral and are 'looped' at the switch terminal which has no connection - it's the equivalent of a wire nut / marrette. HIH. |
#6
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Drill press switch query
N Morrison wrote:
The two red are the cold/neutral and are 'looped' at the switch terminal which has no connection - it's the equivalent of a wire nut / marrette. Or, even more simply, a double pole (DPST) switch. Bob |
#8
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Drill press switch query
Terry wrote:
On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 17:55:00 -0400, jeff_wisnia wrote: Terry wrote: Actual metalworking content... Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen again. Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are *four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two. Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector. One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's the hot wire. The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the machine is plugged in. My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please? Best -- Terry Try unplugging the cord and removing the remainder of the switch. Wrap electrical tape around the spade connector with the two red wires on it to insulate it. Connect the two black wires together and plug in the cord. If the motor runs, then you can unplug it, disconnect the two black wires and route them through that 15A wall switch you mentioned. Jeff Thanks Jeff! That did it. I'm still wondering about the red wires, though. One appears to be the neutral from the plug, the other appears to be the neutral to the motor. It makes sense that they're connected to one another, of course, but what (in the switch) would they be connected *to*? Not that it matters. I'm drilling again. No worries. Thanks again -- Terry Did the original switch by any chance have a bulb or LED in it which lit when the motor was turned on? That would require that the neutral be available there. That's just a WAG. other than that I can't think of why those wires would be needed at the switch. An autopsy of the switch body might reveal something, but to me the essence of pragmatism has always been expressed as, "If it works, use it and stop worrying about it." Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight. |
#9
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Drill press switch query
My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch
but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please? Seems irrelevant at this point, but make and model? -- Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. (800) 871-5022 01.908.542.0244 Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/ Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill V8013-R |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Drill press switch query
On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 16:29:06 -0500, the renowned Terry
wrote: Actual metalworking content... Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen again. Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are *four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two. Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector. One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's the hot wire. The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the machine is plugged in. My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please? Best -- Terry Probably the two red wires are the neutral and a DPST switch (requird for switching two hot lines for overseas safety agency approvals) has one side just used as a tie point. Is there an unconnected spade on the switch, beside the two red wires? So you should be able to put your new switch between the two black wires and just leave the red wires tied to each other (and nowhere else). Best regards, Spehro Pefhany -- "it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward" Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com |
#11
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Drill press switch query
On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 19:10:38 -0500, the renowned Terry
wrote: On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 17:55:00 -0400, jeff_wisnia wrote: Terry wrote: Actual metalworking content... Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen again. Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are *four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two. Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector. One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's the hot wire. The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the machine is plugged in. My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please? Best -- Terry Try unplugging the cord and removing the remainder of the switch. Wrap electrical tape around the spade connector with the two red wires on it to insulate it. Connect the two black wires together and plug in the cord. If the motor runs, then you can unplug it, disconnect the two black wires and route them through that 15A wall switch you mentioned. Jeff Thanks Jeff! That did it. I'm still wondering about the red wires, though. One appears to be the neutral from the plug, the other appears to be the neutral to the motor. It makes sense that they're connected to one another, of course, but what (in the switch) would they be connected *to*? I think it's just a tie point (an unused pole of the switch). They need to buy mostly DPST switches anyway for their domestic market and the Euro market, so they probably wouldn't bother saving a couple of pennies by sourcing a SPST switch just for US/Canada if they can put the unused spade to some use. ;-) Not that it matters. I'm drilling again. No worries. Excellent. Thanks again -- Terry Best regards, Spehro Pefhany -- "it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward" Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Drill press switch query
Terry wrote: Actual metalworking content... Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen again. Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are *four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two. Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector. One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's the hot wire. The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the machine is plugged in. My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please? How about a foot switch? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96619 A must-have for hands-free operation of table routers, scroll saws, drill presses, lathes, and rotary tools. Effortless installation: plug the foot switch into a grounded outlet, then plug the machine into the foot switch. Easy to operate. Hand or foot use. Momentary snap-action design -- press to turn on and maintain power, step off to turn off. Includes 7 ft. 5" power cord 110V, 15 amps, Overall dimensions: 6-3/8" L x 3-1/2" W x 2-3/4" H Weight: 1.2 lbs. ITEM 96619-2VGA $9.99 Here is the manual. http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/96000-96999/96619.pdf I use a similar footswitch on my drill press. There are separate switches for the motor and light, so my footswitch is hard wired in series with the motor switch. It is very handy, and if the drill catches the work, or breaks, its quicker than letting go to turn off the regular switch. I can take a couple pictures, if anyone wants to see the modifications. -- You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense! |
#13
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Drill press switch query
On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 22:52:27 -0400, "Keith Marshall"
wrote: Thanks Jeff! That did it. I'm still wondering about the red wires, though. One appears to be the neutral from the plug, the other appears to be the neutral to the motor. It makes sense that they're connected to one another, of course, but what (in the switch) would they be connected *to*? Was the original switch lighted when on? If so, the light would need the neutral. Yes it was. That's undoubtedly the answer. I guess both the red cover and the light bulb (neon?) went flying when I switched it off for the last time. Thanks -- Terry |
#14
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Drill press switch query
On Tue, 28 Jul 2009 08:42:51 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote: On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 19:10:38 -0500, the renowned Terry wrote: Thanks Jeff! That did it. I'm still wondering about the red wires, though. One appears to be the neutral from the plug, the other appears to be the neutral to the motor. It makes sense that they're connected to one another, of course, but what (in the switch) would they be connected *to*? I think it's just a tie point (an unused pole of the switch). They need to buy mostly DPST switches anyway for their domestic market and the Euro market, so they probably wouldn't bother saving a couple of pennies by sourcing a SPST switch just for US/Canada if they can put the unused spade to some use. ;-) But since in the US with 110V, you don't know which is neutral and which is live and with 220V you have two lives, surely all your devices should have DP switches??? Mark Rand RTFM |
#15
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Drill press switch query
If you have a 3 wire plug with the ground pin, you always know which
wire is hot. (Until someone clips off the ground pin) Late model 2 wire plugs are normally fitted with a polarized plug (one wide blade, one narrow blade) so you should know what the polarity is on that one. Easy enough to defeat. Mark Rand wrote: On Tue, 28 Jul 2009 08:42:51 -0400, Spehro Pefhany wrote: On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 19:10:38 -0500, the renowned Terry wrote: Thanks Jeff! That did it. I'm still wondering about the red wires, though. One appears to be the neutral from the plug, the other appears to be the neutral to the motor. It makes sense that they're connected to one another, of course, but what (in the switch) would they be connected *to*? I think it's just a tie point (an unused pole of the switch). They need to buy mostly DPST switches anyway for their domestic market and the Euro market, so they probably wouldn't bother saving a couple of pennies by sourcing a SPST switch just for US/Canada if they can put the unused spade to some use. ;-) But since in the US with 110V, you don't know which is neutral and which is live and with 220V you have two lives, surely all your devices should have DP switches??? Mark Rand RTFM |
#16
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Drill press switch query
Mark Rand wrote: On Tue, 28 Jul 2009 08:42:51 -0400, Spehro Pefhany wrote: On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 19:10:38 -0500, the renowned Terry wrote: Thanks Jeff! That did it. I'm still wondering about the red wires, though. One appears to be the neutral from the plug, the other appears to be the neutral to the motor. It makes sense that they're connected to one another, of course, but what (in the switch) would they be connected *to*? I think it's just a tie point (an unused pole of the switch). They need to buy mostly DPST switches anyway for their domestic market and the Euro market, so they probably wouldn't bother saving a couple of pennies by sourcing a SPST switch just for US/Canada if they can put the unused spade to some use. ;-) But since in the US with 110V, you don't know which is neutral and which is live and with 220V you have two lives, surely all your devices should have DP switches??? It should have a polarized plug, or a three wire plug. Both only plug in one way. Also, all that is required is to switch the line, so a SPST is all that is required. -- You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense! |
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