I'm trying to remove a hatch to replace the acrylic cover.

Stainless steel screws through aluminum frame - 18 years old.

I haven't stripped any heads - yet. But these boogers ain't
coming out...

The only thing I know how to do at this point is to drill the
heads off and try to pull them like wisdom teeth (vice grips!)

So I am VERY open to suggestions for a non-destructive technique.


Richard

If you can lean on the screwdriver very heavily, as in with a C clamp,
if it is possible, it could help avoid stripping.

Reminds me of a saying which was true in my case: in the life of a
boat owner, there are two happy days: the day he buys a boat and the
day he sells it.

i

Ignoramus13081 wrote:
If you can lean on the screwdriver very heavily, as in with a C clamp,
if it is possible, it could help avoid stripping.

Reminds me of a saying which was true in my case: in the life of a
boat owner, there are two happy days: the day he buys a boat and the
day he sells it.

i

I forgot that one, but I'll have to buy a stubby Phillips to try it.


As for happy days though...
I wouldn't credit that old saw too much.

You should have been out with us this weekend flying the new sails!
15 knot wind, 30 degrees off on a beat, doing 4.5+ knots.
VERY happy day!

Then we anchored out and had a very happy night too!

On Thu, 16 Jul 2009 14:18:39 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

I'm trying to remove a hatch to replace the acrylic cover.

Stainless steel screws through aluminum frame - 18 years old.


The manual impact drivers like those at the bottom of this page were
the preferred method for removing stainless screws from aluminum spars
when I was working in boatyards 30+ years ago. Almost always works if
the screw head hasn't been buggered before applying the impact tool.
You may have to support the hatch below the fastener you're working on
to get the full benefit of the hammer blows.
http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplCt...tlgEdition=115

If you buy one, get a few extra bits as well. The Phillips bits are
pretty sturdy, but the smaller slotted bits can break.

--
Ned Simmons

So I am VERY open to suggestions for a non-destructive technique.

If the heads do get ruined, try left hand spiral drill bits to drill 'em
out. Ya never know when you will get lucky and they will spin out a
fastener.

....But 18 years of SS / Alum. is a bad scene...
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/autodrill

V8013-R

cavelamb wrote:

I'm trying to remove a hatch to replace the acrylic cover.

Stainless steel screws through aluminum frame - 18 years old.

I haven't stripped any heads - yet. But these boogers ain't
coming out...

The only thing I know how to do at this point is to drill the
heads off and try to pull them like wisdom teeth (vice grips!)

So I am VERY open to suggestions for a non-destructive technique.

Richard

I bet the magic Kroil would loosen the corrosion given a day or two to
soak in this 100 degree weather.

Manual impact screwdriver. Works great on stainless steel screws into
the aluminum exhaust housing on an outboard. Insert bit into what's left
of the screw, apply as much torque as you can without camming out, give
it a smart rap with an 8 oz ball peen.

cavelamb wrote:
I'm trying to remove a hatch to replace the acrylic cover.

Stainless steel screws through aluminum frame - 18 years old.

I haven't stripped any heads - yet. But these boogers ain't
coming out...

The only thing I know how to do at this point is to drill the
heads off and try to pull them like wisdom teeth (vice grips!)

So I am VERY open to suggestions for a non-destructive technique.


Richard

cavelamb wrote:
I'm trying to remove a hatch to replace the acrylic cover.

Stainless steel screws through aluminum frame - 18 years old.


Warming the aluminum might help as it expands more than s/s.

Jordan

Ned Simmons wrote:
On Thu, 16 Jul 2009 14:18:39 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

I'm trying to remove a hatch to replace the acrylic cover.

Stainless steel screws through aluminum frame - 18 years old.


The manual impact drivers like those at the bottom of this page were
the preferred method for removing stainless screws from aluminum spars
when I was working in boatyards 30+ years ago. Almost always works if
the screw head hasn't been buggered before applying the impact tool.
You may have to support the hatch below the fastener you're working on
to get the full benefit of the hammer blows.
http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplCt...tlgEdition=115

If you buy one, get a few extra bits as well. The Phillips bits are
pretty sturdy, but the smaller slotted bits can break.



I considered that approach, Ned, but didn't try it because high impact
force can cause fiberglass to delaminate.

Even if it could be supported solidly, a heavy handed hammer could crush fibers.

But thanks for the suggestion.

R

Jordan wrote:
cavelamb wrote:
I'm trying to remove a hatch to replace the acrylic cover.

Stainless steel screws through aluminum frame - 18 years old.


Warming the aluminum might help as it expands more than s/s.

Jordan

If was already 104 today.
How warm do you want it???

Ignoramus13081 wrote:
If you can lean on the screwdriver very heavily, as in with a C clamp,
if it is possible, it could help avoid stripping.

Reminds me of a saying which was true in my case: in the life of a
boat owner, there are two happy days: the day he buys a boat and the
day he sells it.

i

Iggy, the C clamp won the day.

I had to clamp a block of wood under the edge of the hatch opening
and carve it a bit to get things parallel.

I used a brand new #2 Phillips bit (rather than a full screwdriver)
because of limited clamp depth.

Three of them came put pretty clean.
Just a little Iron Cross effect.

One I had to drill and use a small extractor.
On that one, the bit/clamp slipped and tore up the head.

At least now I can get the thing home to work on it.
There are 5 more screws to remove before the plastic will come out.
And they don't have a chance of being clamped!
The backing is beveled.

Pete? Would you email me a dab of Kroil???

Thanks all.

cavelamb wrote:

Pete? Would you email me a dab of Kroil???

I don't think email will work for sending liquids, but if you want to PM
me, I'll be in Plano Saturday and would be happy to bring down some
Kroil.

Pete C. wrote:
cavelamb wrote:
Pete? Would you email me a dab of Kroil???

I don't think email will work for sending liquids, but if you want to PM
me, I'll be in Plano Saturday and would be happy to bring down some
Kroil.

I gotta go in to Dallas tomorrow.

Anyplace along 75 that I could for sure pick some up?

cavelamb wrote:

Pete C. wrote:
cavelamb wrote:
Pete? Would you email me a dab of Kroil???

I don't think email will work for sending liquids, but if you want to PM
me, I'll be in Plano Saturday and would be happy to bring down some
Kroil.

I gotta go in to Dallas tomorrow.

Anyplace along 75 that I could for sure pick some up?

Check the Kano Labs site and see if they list any distributors you
recognize. I ordered my gallon of Kroil direct from Kano.

Snip


1: when i replace the cleats on this side, how do i deal with an oversized
hole? i can't get a nut/washer into the tube as it's a lot smaller than my
hand, and far from the end. i can't thread the hole because i'd need a
larger screw (or bolt), which won't fit the hole in the cleat. the cleat


This looks like a good application for a Helicoil insert. Drill the hole
oversize with the bit provided in the kit,and screw in the coil. ( a bit of
loc-tite at this stage doesn't hurt)



2: are the threads in the other hole strong enough if i replace the screw
with a similar one to what i took out?

Do this hole with the Helicoil as well. It will mean that you can get both
screws out when , 18 years from now, you want to take it off again.

3: how to prevent further corrosion for the next time i have to do this

Before you put the screw back into the Helicoiled thread, wrap the screw
with a bit of Teflon plumbers tape.


4: how to prevent the heads from breaking off on the other side

Buy a Helicoil kit with at least 4 coils in it and do the lot of them at
the one time. It will save you alot of agrivation later.



no telling what's happened inside the tube on the other side or whether i
can get the old screws out ok. i'm sure i'm going to have pretty much the
same problems though (or something completely different).

the cleats can't really be moved as they're in the right place. besides,
if i did that, i'd have to get the other 2 screws out, causing more
problems and another set of holes.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

On 2009-07-16, cavelamb wrote:
I'm trying to remove a hatch to replace the acrylic cover.

Stainless steel screws through aluminum frame - 18 years old.

I haven't stripped any heads - yet. But these boogers ain't
coming out...

The only thing I know how to do at this point is to drill the
heads off and try to pull them like wisdom teeth (vice grips!)

So I am VERY open to suggestions for a non-destructive technique.

How big are the screws?

What kind of heads?

One possibility is a hammer-driven impact driver, where the
hammer's force makes sure that the bit is firmly into the screw at the
peak of torque.

Perhaps heat on the screw heads before you try this? A propane
or MAAP torch? Don't hold the MAAP too long, or you might start melting
the aluminum. :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Pete C. wrote:
cavelamb wrote:
Pete C. wrote:
cavelamb wrote:
Pete? Would you email me a dab of Kroil???
I don't think email will work for sending liquids, but if you want to PM
me, I'll be in Plano Saturday and would be happy to bring down some
Kroil.
I gotta go in to Dallas tomorrow.

Anyplace along 75 that I could for sure pick some up?

Check the Kano Labs site and see if they list any distributors you
recognize. I ordered my gallon of Kroil direct from Kano.


What an interesting can of worms that created!
Web of Trust has them marked unreliable on reliability and privacy.

But Google said Granger carries it.
that will probably do.

I was going to suggest a small strip of aluminum with nutplates
riveted on and machine screws.

Use a step drill to clean up the holes?

Hot glue (or?) the plate to a stick and slide it into the tube to
get the nuts in place and the screws started.

There is a miracle gel that the marina guys recommend, but I don't have the
name handy. They are supposed to have some for me tomorrow or this weekend.

Will report back then.

Richard

DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2009-07-16, cavelamb wrote:
I'm trying to remove a hatch to replace the acrylic cover.

Stainless steel screws through aluminum frame - 18 years old.

I haven't stripped any heads - yet. But these boogers ain't
coming out...

The only thing I know how to do at this point is to drill the
heads off and try to pull them like wisdom teeth (vice grips!)

So I am VERY open to suggestions for a non-destructive technique.

How big are the screws?

What kind of heads?

One possibility is a hammer-driven impact driver, where the
hammer's force makes sure that the bit is firmly into the screw at the
peak of torque.

Perhaps heat on the screw heads before you try this? A propane
or MAAP torch? Don't hold the MAAP too long, or you might start melting
the aluminum. :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.


Since the hatch was made in england, I suspect they are metric.
Haven't checked yet. They look like #8 countersunk phillips about 1/4"
or maybe 5/16" long.

On 2009-07-17, cavelamb wrote:
Ignoramus13081 wrote:
If you can lean on the screwdriver very heavily, as in with a C clamp,
if it is possible, it could help avoid stripping.

Reminds me of a saying which was true in my case: in the life of a
boat owner, there are two happy days: the day he buys a boat and the
day he sells it.

i

Iggy, the C clamp won the day.

I had to clamp a block of wood under the edge of the hatch opening
and carve it a bit to get things parallel.

Awesome, congrats

i

I used a brand new #2 Phillips bit (rather than a full screwdriver)
because of limited clamp depth.

Three of them came put pretty clean.
Just a little Iron Cross effect.

One I had to drill and use a small extractor.
On that one, the bit/clamp slipped and tore up the head.

At least now I can get the thing home to work on it.
There are 5 more screws to remove before the plastic will come out.
And they don't have a chance of being clamped!
The backing is beveled.

Pete? Would you email me a dab of Kroil???

Thanks all.

cavelamb wrote:
I'm trying to remove a hatch to replace the acrylic cover.

Stainless steel screws through aluminum frame - 18 years old.

I haven't stripped any heads - yet. But these boogers ain't
coming out...

The only thing I know how to do at this point is to drill the
heads off and try to pull them like wisdom teeth (vice grips!)

So I am VERY open to suggestions for a non-destructive technique.


Richard

Try using a left handed drillbit--bear hard if it grabs--out comes screw.
they sold some kits on TV a while back--drill bit shaped like base of
narrow cone--drill socket--special shaped eze out to fit hole--looked
like it would work good---I didn't order one.

Jerry Wass wrote:
cavelamb wrote:
I'm trying to remove a hatch to replace the acrylic cover.

Stainless steel screws through aluminum frame - 18 years old.

I haven't stripped any heads - yet. But these boogers ain't
coming out...

The only thing I know how to do at this point is to drill the
heads off and try to pull them like wisdom teeth (vice grips!)

So I am VERY open to suggestions for a non-destructive technique.


Richard

Try using a left handed drillbit--bear hard if it grabs--out comes screw.
they sold some kits on TV a while back--drill bit shaped like base of
narrow cone--drill socket--special shaped eze out to fit hole--looked
like it would work good---I didn't order one.

I wouldn't call them "drill bits", but that's what I used on the one
I had to drill. I always heard then referred to as "Exctactors".

"cavelamb" wrote in message
m...
I'm trying to remove a hatch to replace the acrylic cover.

Stainless steel screws through aluminum frame - 18 years old.

I haven't stripped any heads - yet. But these boogers ain't
coming out...

The only thing I know how to do at this point is to drill the
heads off and try to pull them like wisdom teeth (vice grips!)

So I am VERY open to suggestions for a non-destructive technique.


Richard

I have removed stubborn stripped screws with a pair of plain vise grips with
good jaws. Of course, the screw has to have a shoulder like a machine
screw, and not a countersunk like drywall screws. Just get the jaws good
and tight and all the way down to the aluminum and twist backwards slowly.
Of course, it doesn't always work, sometimes breaks the head off, sometimes
strips off itself, and other methods of failure, but with a little luck, and
maybe a little PB Blaster to soften it up, but be careful, as the PB may
damage surrounding finish.

Good luck. You will need some.

Steve

"cavelamb" wrote in message
m...
Pete C. wrote:
cavelamb wrote:
Pete? Would you email me a dab of Kroil???

I don't think email will work for sending liquids, but if you want to PM
me, I'll be in Plano Saturday and would be happy to bring down some
Kroil.

I gotta go in to Dallas tomorrow.

Anyplace along 75 that I could for sure pick some up?

Dang. Good think I know you two. Making plans to meet on an Interstate
...........

Steve ;-)

I used a brand new #2 Phillips bit (rather than a full screwdriver)
because of limited clamp depth.

They make a brand of bits that have small striation marks on them. To me,
they have a better bite.

Steve

cavelamb wrote:

Warming the aluminum might help as it expands more than s/s.

Jordan

If was already 104 today.
How warm do you want it???

Whew! Take a break, and have a cool drink on me.
The metals could stand a bit more.

Jordan

"Jordan" wrote in message
...
cavelamb wrote:

Warming the aluminum might help as it expands more than s/s.

Jordan

If was already 104 today.
How warm do you want it???

Whew! Take a break, and have a cool drink on me.
The metals could stand a bit more.

Jordan

110 yesterday where I live.

SteveB wrote:
"Jordan" wrote in message
...
cavelamb wrote:

Warming the aluminum might help as it expands more than s/s.

Jordan
If was already 104 today.
How warm do you want it???
Whew! Take a break, and have a cool drink on me.
The metals could stand a bit more.

Jordan

110 yesterday where I live.



I rigged a sun shade on the foredeck.
No idea what the temperature was out of the shade!

"Grumpy" wrote in message
news

Snip


1: when i replace the cleats on this side, how do i deal with an
oversized hole? i can't get a nut/washer into the tube as it's a lot
smaller than my hand, and far from the end. i can't thread the hole
because i'd need a larger screw (or bolt), which won't fit the hole in
the cleat. the cleat


This looks like a good application for a Helicoil insert. Drill the hole
oversize with the bit provided in the kit,and screw in the coil. ( a bit
of loc-tite at this stage doesn't hurt)



2: are the threads in the other hole strong enough if i replace the screw
with a similar one to what i took out?

Do this hole with the Helicoil as well. It will mean that you can get both
screws out when , 18 years from now, you want to take it off again.

3: how to prevent further corrosion for the next time i have to do this

Before you put the screw back into the Helicoiled thread, wrap the screw
with a bit of Teflon plumbers tape.


4: how to prevent the heads from breaking off on the other side

Buy a Helicoil kit with at least 4 coils in it and do the lot of them at
the one time. It will save you alot of agrivation later.



no telling what's happened inside the tube on the other side or whether i
can get the old screws out ok. i'm sure i'm going to have pretty much the
same problems though (or something completely different).

the cleats can't really be moved as they're in the right place. besides,
if i did that, i'd have to get the other 2 screws out, causing more
problems and another set of holes.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

thanks. i'll look for them. autoparts store? will helicoils work on thin
metals? the wall thickness of the tube is ~1/8" or so, which is probably why
the installer used thread cutting screws i guess, rather than a machine
screw..

cavelamb wrote:

Pete C. wrote:
cavelamb wrote:
Pete C. wrote:
cavelamb wrote:
Pete? Would you email me a dab of Kroil???
I don't think email will work for sending liquids, but if you want to PM
me, I'll be in Plano Saturday and would be happy to bring down some
Kroil.
I gotta go in to Dallas tomorrow.

Anyplace along 75 that I could for sure pick some up?

Check the Kano Labs site and see if they list any distributors you
recognize. I ordered my gallon of Kroil direct from Kano.

What an interesting can of worms that created!
Web of Trust has them marked unreliable on reliability and privacy.

Odd. I wonder if you got a look-alike scam site. kanolabs.com is the
correct one I believe. I ordered a gallon of Kroil direct from Kano
several years ago with no issues at all. The Kroil arrived in just a few
days, and the only other thing I've received from them is an occasional
flyer once a year or so.


But Google said Granger carries it.
that will probably do.

Grainger, McMaster and a couple others I think, nothing really retail,
indeed their order form specifically states "industrial use only" and
"not intended for retail sale". Kroil seems to be something of an
industrial secret.

"cavelamb" wrote

I rigged a sun shade on the foredeck.
No idea what the temperature was out of the shade!

Working on putting swivel wheels on my big sewing machine today so I can
wheel it into the living room and start some canvas and shadecloth projects.
Need shade over windows, and some over some porches. Shading windows does a
lot to cut heat inside and helps cool without using a$ much electricity.

Steve

"Pete C." wrote in
ster.com:


cavelamb wrote:

Pete C. wrote:
cavelamb wrote:
Pete C. wrote:
cavelamb wrote:
Pete? Would you email me a dab of Kroil???
I don't think email will work for sending liquids, but if you
want to PM me, I'll be in Plano Saturday and would be happy to
bring down some Kroil.
I gotta go in to Dallas tomorrow.

Anyplace along 75 that I could for sure pick some up?

Check the Kano Labs site and see if they list any distributors you
recognize. I ordered my gallon of Kroil direct from Kano.

What an interesting can of worms that created!
Web of Trust has them marked unreliable on reliability and privacy.

Odd. I wonder if you got a look-alike scam site. kanolabs.com is the
correct one I believe. I ordered a gallon of Kroil direct from Kano
several years ago with no issues at all. The Kroil arrived in just a
few days, and the only other thing I've received from them is an
occasional flyer once a year or so.


But Google said Granger carries it.
that will probably do.

Grainger, McMaster and a couple others I think, nothing really retail,
indeed their order form specifically states "industrial use only" and
"not intended for retail sale". Kroil seems to be something of an
industrial secret.

I could swear I've seen it in some hardware stores recently. Good gun
shops carry it as well. Amongst it's other miracle properties, it's a
good powder solvent.

Someone also posted to a yahoo group the following info:

Here's a tip from the July issue of the Waushakum Journal:

Machinists workshop manual tested various penetrating oils on
equally rusted bolts
Force on wrench to break free
Average load
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD40: 238 lbs
liquid wrench: 127 lbs
Kroil: 106 lbs
ATF-acetone mix: 53 lbs

The mix is a home brew of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50%
acetone.

I'm a little suspicious about the validity of their tests, especially the
"equally rusted" bolts. I have no idea if they did 10 bolts & averaged
the results, or just two. It says average load, so that implies at least
two.

If anyone tries the ATF-acetone mix, I'd love to hear their conclusions.

Doug White

Pete C. wrote:
cavelamb wrote:
Pete C. wrote:
cavelamb wrote:
Pete C. wrote:
cavelamb wrote:
Pete? Would you email me a dab of Kroil???
I don't think email will work for sending liquids, but if you want to PM
me, I'll be in Plano Saturday and would be happy to bring down some
Kroil.
I gotta go in to Dallas tomorrow.

Anyplace along 75 that I could for sure pick some up?
Check the Kano Labs site and see if they list any distributors you
recognize. I ordered my gallon of Kroil direct from Kano.
What an interesting can of worms that created!
Web of Trust has them marked unreliable on reliability and privacy.

Odd. I wonder if you got a look-alike scam site. kanolabs.com is the
correct one I believe. I ordered a gallon of Kroil direct from Kano
several years ago with no issues at all. The Kroil arrived in just a few
days, and the only other thing I've received from them is an occasional
flyer once a year or so.

But Google said Granger carries it.
that will probably do.

Grainger, McMaster and a couple others I think, nothing really retail,
indeed their order form specifically states "industrial use only" and
"not intended for retail sale". Kroil seems to be something of an
industrial secret.

It looks like they are using a third party order site?

https://secure.concentric.com/kanola...r_google.shtml

Anyway, I went to NAPA today and bought an impact driver ($24 ~ not bad,
for a $14 tool, I guess) and picked up a spray can of PB Blaster.

The next step in my project is to open up the hatch frame so the old
glass can be removes and the new installed.
That means removing more screws - oddly sized British stuff to boot.
So I'd like to reuse them if at all possible.

But this part can be positioned on the bench so that I'm banging on
solid stuff rather than the thin edge of the deck house.

BTW, I was wrong about the size of the ones I removed yesterday.
A 10-32 will start on them, but quickly binds.
And it looks like a fine thread.
So I'm more pretty sure they are indeed metric.


Richard

SteveB wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote

I rigged a sun shade on the foredeck.
No idea what the temperature was out of the shade!

Working on putting swivel wheels on my big sewing machine today so I can
wheel it into the living room and start some canvas and shadecloth projects.
Need shade over windows, and some over some porches. Shading windows does a
lot to cut heat inside and helps cool without using a$ much electricity.

Steve



Steve!

I need to make a whole bunch of covers and the little Brother
just can't do it.

Bring that sucker over here!
I'll introduce you to my all girl crew!

cavelamb wrote:


I need to make a whole bunch of covers and the little Brother
just can't do it.

You need a 132K6 !

On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 17:46:53 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:


BTW, I was wrong about the size of the ones I removed yesterday.
A 10-32 will start on them, but quickly binds.
And it looks like a fine thread.
So I'm more pretty sure they are indeed metric.


Richard


If they are British, threads might be BA. Metric pitch, but 47 degree
thread angle.

Bob

"charlie" wrote in message
...

"Grumpy" wrote in message
news

Snip


1: when i replace the cleats on this side, how do i deal with an
oversized hole? i can't get a nut/washer into the tube as it's a lot
smaller than my hand, and far from the end. i can't thread the hole
because i'd need a larger screw (or bolt), which won't fit the hole in
the cleat. the cleat


This looks like a good application for a Helicoil insert. Drill the hole
oversize with the bit provided in the kit,and screw in the coil. ( a bit
of loc-tite at this stage doesn't hurt)



2: are the threads in the other hole strong enough if i replace the
screw with a similar one to what i took out?

Do this hole with the Helicoil as well. It will mean that you can get
both screws out when , 18 years from now, you want to take it off again.

3: how to prevent further corrosion for the next time i have to do this

Before you put the screw back into the Helicoiled thread, wrap the screw
with a bit of Teflon plumbers tape.


4: how to prevent the heads from breaking off on the other side

Buy a Helicoil kit with at least 4 coils in it and do the lot of them at
the one time. It will save you alot of agrivation later.



no telling what's happened inside the tube on the other side or whether
i can get the old screws out ok. i'm sure i'm going to have pretty much
the same problems though (or something completely different).

the cleats can't really be moved as they're in the right place. besides,
if i did that, i'd have to get the other 2 screws out, causing more
problems and another set of holes.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

thanks. i'll look for them. autoparts store? will helicoils work on thin
metals? the wall thickness of the tube is ~1/8" or so, which is probably
why the installer used thread cutting screws i guess, rather than a
machine screw..


OOPs! Sorry 1/8" is a bit too thin for a Helicoil.
Pehaps you could try a Nutsert. They are a cylinder with a female tread.
It is fitted to a tool that looks like a Pop rivet gun,put into the hole and
squeezed. It expands the bottom part of the cylinder and locks it in place.
The guns are expensive as hell and the nuts aren't cheap either but you
might be able to rent the gun. I think the inserts might be available in
Monel or stainless.

Jordan wrote:
cavelamb wrote:


I need to make a whole bunch of covers and the little Brother
just can't do it.

You need a 132K6 !

For $2600?

I can have all the covers I need made professionally for half that!

But if I could find a basic 1950-1960 Singer for a couple hundred,
I'd snap it up in a hurry.

Bob wrote:
On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 17:46:53 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:


BTW, I was wrong about the size of the ones I removed yesterday.
A 10-32 will start on them, but quickly binds.
And it looks like a fine thread.
So I'm more pretty sure they are indeed metric.


Richard


If they are British, threads might be BA. Metric pitch, but 47 degree
thread angle.

Bob

What does BA mean?

British Association. The equivalent of our numbered machine screws.
Bob



On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 19:21:50 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Bob wrote:
On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 17:46:53 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:


BTW, I was wrong about the size of the ones I removed yesterday.
A 10-32 will start on them, but quickly binds.
And it looks like a fine thread.
So I'm more pretty sure they are indeed metric.


Richard


If they are British, threads might be BA. Metric pitch, but 47 degree
thread angle.

Bob

What does BA mean?