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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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water tank design
"The Kid" is on a rolling layoff, so I'm hiring him to do the fabrication on
my 6' by 10' plasma cutter. We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. "The Kid" thinks 0.070" or 14 gauge should be enough. I'm leaning toward 0.100" or 11guage to be sure. Any way to know? Second question, if we weld every inch of every seam it will warp for sure. I'd like to just stitch weld it and then use some sort of sealer/filler to prevent leaks. What would work here? Karl |
#2
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water tank design
On Sun, 17 May 2009 17:36:54 -0500, "Karl Townsend"
wrote: "The Kid" is on a rolling layoff, so I'm hiring him to do the fabrication on my 6' by 10' plasma cutter. We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. "The Kid" thinks 0.070" or 14 gauge should be enough. I'm leaning toward 0.100" or 11guage to be sure. Any way to know? Second question, if we weld every inch of every seam it will warp for sure. I'd like to just stitch weld it and then use some sort of sealer/filler to prevent leaks. What would work here? ..125 minimum thickness. 1/8th inch. Frankly..Id go to 3/16th inch. or even .250...1/4" Shrug...your choice. If it was only 8" deep..Id say 1/8", with some cross members. But you are asking Sheet Metal to hold 200 gallons of water. Shrug Gunner Karl "Somewhere a True Believer is training to kill you. He is training with minimum food or water,in austere conditions, day and night. The only thing clean on him is his weapon. He doesn't worry about what workout to do--- his rucksack weighs what it weighs, and he runs until the enemy stops chasing him. The True Believer doesn't care 'how hard it is'; he knows he either wins or he dies. He doesn't go home at 1700; he is home. He knows only the 'Cause.' Now, who wants to quit?" NCOIC of the Special Forces Assessment and Selection Course in a welcome speech to new SF candidates |
#3
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water tank design
Karl Townsend wrote:
... We're building a water tank 16" high by ... Why so deep? It's just to catch molten "swarf", right? My intuition is that an inch or 2 of water would be plenty. Bob |
#4
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water tank design
Why so deep? It's just to catch molten "swarf", right? My intuition is
that an inch or 2 of water would be plenty. Bob Want to be able to go 1" over grates, grates are 3", 3" under grates to easily scrape swarf out. then a captive air/water tank (let air out water drops below - air up water goes to grate level) - 8", then 1" slope to drain easily. 1+3+3+8+1=16 Karl |
#5
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water tank design
On Sun, 17 May 2009 17:36:54 -0500, "Karl Townsend"
wrote: "The Kid" is on a rolling layoff, so I'm hiring him to do the fabrication on my 6' by 10' plasma cutter. We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. "The Kid" thinks 0.070" or 14 gauge should be enough. I agree with him. I think you'll need reinforcement along the top rim as well of course. I'm leaning toward 0.100" or 11guage to be sure. Any way to know? Fine if you don't mind the extra cost and weight. Second question, if we weld every inch of every seam it will warp for sure. I'd like to just stitch weld it and then use some sort of sealer/filler to prevent leaks. What would work here? I welded a tank out of thinnish (don't remember exactly) steel, about 2'X2'X4' tall. TIG tacked the seams every 6" or so, then TIGed the seams solid. Lots of heat but only very slight warping. When the steel wouldn't hold up with 160F water, I built a second version out of stainless. I'd don't think warping will be an issue with yours. 10X6X say, 1 foot of water plus the tank will weigh about 2 tons. Does it really need to be so deep? Wayne |
#6
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water tank design
On Sun, 17 May 2009 18:51:06 -0500, "Karl Townsend"
wrote: Why so deep? It's just to catch molten "swarf", right? My intuition is that an inch or 2 of water would be plenty. Bob Want to be able to go 1" over grates, grates are 3", 3" under grates to easily scrape swarf out. then a captive air/water tank (let air out water drops below - air up water goes to grate level) - 8", then 1" slope to drain easily. 1+3+3+8+1=16 Karl I have shop space in a bigger shop that has a ESAB plasma table. 20'x 10' And the tank is about 5" deep. And its 3/16" tank steel Gunner "Somewhere a True Believer is training to kill you. He is training with minimum food or water,in austere conditions, day and night. The only thing clean on him is his weapon. He doesn't worry about what workout to do--- his rucksack weighs what it weighs, and he runs until the enemy stops chasing him. The True Believer doesn't care 'how hard it is'; he knows he either wins or he dies. He doesn't go home at 1700; he is home. He knows only the 'Cause.' Now, who wants to quit?" NCOIC of the Special Forces Assessment and Selection Course in a welcome speech to new SF candidates |
#7
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water tank design
"Gunner Asch" wrote in message ... On Sun, 17 May 2009 18:51:06 -0500, "Karl Townsend" wrote: Why so deep? It's just to catch molten "swarf", right? My intuition is that an inch or 2 of water would be plenty. Bob Want to be able to go 1" over grates, grates are 3", 3" under grates to easily scrape swarf out. then a captive air/water tank (let air out water drops below - air up water goes to grate level) - 8", then 1" slope to drain easily. 1+3+3+8+1=16 Karl I have shop space in a bigger shop that has a ESAB plasma table. 20'x 10' And the tank is about 5" deep. And its 3/16" tank steel Gunner Good to know. Mine will have weeks at a time unused so I want to drop the water off the grids and into an enclosed tank. Seen the idea I'm using on another plasma table. Does this shop have a method to do this? I know the shop my son works at doesn't. They just drain once per week and cleanup. This lets you wash it out, mine can't do that unless I drain. You've got me thinking 1/8 with angle reinforce on the bottom. 0.100 elsewhere. I got to watch my costs, this much steel is expensive. Karl |
#8
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water tank design
On Sun, 17 May 2009 17:36:54 -0500, the infamous "Karl Townsend"
scrawled the following: "The Kid" is on a rolling layoff, so I'm hiring him to do the fabrication on my 6' by 10' plasma cutter. We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. "The Kid" thinks 0.070" or 14 gauge should be enough. I'm leaning toward 0.100" or 11guage to be sure. Any way to know? With 16" of water to push on it, you'd have (6x10x1.333' = 78 x 64.5lbs/cu.ft.) 5,013 pounds of water in the tank. I vote with your guess, or heavier, depending upon the amount of stiffeners you put in the sides to keep it from oil-canning. I'm too lazy to get the Audel Millwright's book from the bedroom. (It's late; G'night, Karl.) Second question, if we weld every inch of every seam it will warp for sure. I'd like to just stitch weld it and then use some sort of sealer/filler to prevent leaks. What would work here? Shirley, ewe jest! -- No matter how cynical you are, it is impossible to keep up. --Lily Tomlin |
#9
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water tank design
1/8" with no reinforcement will probably rip along the edges :-). 16" deep
x 6' x 10' of pure water weighs 4992 lbs, and that load uniformly applied to a 6x10' sheet of 1/8" steel results in a bending stress of 91 ksi and a calculated deflection of 6.8". I'm no engineer but just doodling with a cross support every 2', 6' long, supported at the ends, each taking 1/5 of the 5000 lbs, using 3" square tubing (makes it possible to get forklift forks under it) would result in a deflection in the middle of each tube of ..056" and a maximum stress of 4.6 ksi for a safety margin of at least 10. So that's the kind of supports I'd be thinking of. For comparison 3x3x1/4" angle is about 1/3 the stiffness and 3" tall x 2" wide x 1/4" tube is 2/3 the stiffness. A very useful program for this kind of stuff is Engineering Power Tools from www.pwr-tools.com. The free version works but is missing some advanced beam deflection features, among others, and it's only about $50 for the full version and well worth it IMHO. Oh, and of course my estimate completely ignored the weight of your grid structure. Couldn't you weld it by stitching 2" then moving a couple of feet away and doing another 2", etc, to keep the local heat buildup under control? ----- Regards, Carl Ijames "Karl Townsend" wrote in message anews.com... "The Kid" is on a rolling layoff, so I'm hiring him to do the fabrication on my 6' by 10' plasma cutter. We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. "The Kid" thinks 0.070" or 14 gauge should be enough. I'm leaning toward 0.100" or 11guage to be sure. Any way to know? Second question, if we weld every inch of every seam it will warp for sure. I'd like to just stitch weld it and then use some sort of sealer/filler to prevent leaks. What would work here? Karl |
#10
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water tank design
On Sun, 17 May 2009 16:13:39 -0700, the infamous Gunner Asch
scrawled the following: On Sun, 17 May 2009 17:36:54 -0500, "Karl Townsend" wrote: "The Kid" is on a rolling layoff, so I'm hiring him to do the fabrication on my 6' by 10' plasma cutter. We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. "The Kid" thinks 0.070" or 14 gauge should be enough. I'm leaning toward 0.100" or 11guage to be sure. Any way to know? Second question, if we weld every inch of every seam it will warp for sure. I'd like to just stitch weld it and then use some sort of sealer/filler to prevent leaks. What would work here? .125 minimum thickness. 1/8th inch. Frankly..Id go to 3/16th inch. or even .250...1/4" Shrug...your choice. If it was only 8" deep..Id say 1/8", with some cross members. But you are asking Sheet Metal to hold 200 gallons of water. Doublecheck your figures. Water's 8.3lbs/gal and 64.5lbs/cu.ft. That's 7.5 gallons per cu.ft. x 78, or 585 gallons if filled to the top. -- No matter how cynical you are, it is impossible to keep up. --Lily Tomlin |
#11
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water tank design
On Sun, 17 May 2009 19:29:53 -0400, the infamous Bob Engelhardt
scrawled the following: Karl Townsend wrote: ... We're building a water tank 16" high by ... Why so deep? It's just to catch molten "swarf", right? My intuition is that an inch or 2 of water would be plenty. Bob I wanna see them move the tank out from under the plasma cutter with 2.5 tons of water and triple that amount of cutoff steel plate in it, don't you? g -- No matter how cynical you are, it is impossible to keep up. --Lily Tomlin |
#12
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water tank design
Let the Record show that Gunner Asch on
or about Sun, 17 May 2009 16:13:39 -0700 did write/type or cause to appear in rec.crafts.metalworking the following: On Sun, 17 May 2009 17:36:54 -0500, "Karl Townsend" wrote: "The Kid" is on a rolling layoff, so I'm hiring him to do the fabrication on my 6' by 10' plasma cutter. We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. "The Kid" thinks 0.070" or 14 gauge should be enough. I'm leaning toward 0.100" or 11guage to be sure. Any way to know? Second question, if we weld every inch of every seam it will warp for sure. I'd like to just stitch weld it and then use some sort of sealer/filler to prevent leaks. What would work here? .125 minimum thickness. 1/8th inch. Frankly..Id go to 3/16th inch. or even .250...1/4" Shrug...your choice. If it was only 8" deep..Id say 1/8", with some cross members. But you are asking Sheet Metal to hold 200 gallons of water. "A pints a pound the world around" - water is approximately 8 pounds to the gallon. 200 gallons is three quarters of a ton. As an engineering guy I knew once wrote "Overstressed systems will eventually become unstressed. But wouldn't you rather do it in a controlled manner?" - pyotr filipivich We will drink no whiskey before its nine. It's eight fifty eight. Close enough! |
#13
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water tank design
On Sun, 17 May 2009 22:03:10 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Sun, 17 May 2009 16:13:39 -0700, the infamous Gunner Asch scrawled the following: On Sun, 17 May 2009 17:36:54 -0500, "Karl Townsend" wrote: "The Kid" is on a rolling layoff, so I'm hiring him to do the fabrication on my 6' by 10' plasma cutter. We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. "The Kid" thinks 0.070" or 14 gauge should be enough. I'm leaning toward 0.100" or 11guage to be sure. Any way to know? Second question, if we weld every inch of every seam it will warp for sure. I'd like to just stitch weld it and then use some sort of sealer/filler to prevent leaks. What would work here? .125 minimum thickness. 1/8th inch. Frankly..Id go to 3/16th inch. or even .250...1/4" Shrug...your choice. If it was only 8" deep..Id say 1/8", with some cross members. But you are asking Sheet Metal to hold 200 gallons of water. Doublecheck your figures. Water's 8.3lbs/gal and 64.5lbs/cu.ft. That's 7.5 gallons per cu.ft. x 78, or 585 gallons if filled to the top. Very good indeed. I was simply pondering without resorting to a calculator. Thanks! Gunner "Somewhere a True Believer is training to kill you. He is training with minimum food or water,in austere conditions, day and night. The only thing clean on him is his weapon. He doesn't worry about what workout to do--- his rucksack weighs what it weighs, and he runs until the enemy stops chasing him. The True Believer doesn't care 'how hard it is'; he knows he either wins or he dies. He doesn't go home at 1700; he is home. He knows only the 'Cause.' Now, who wants to quit?" NCOIC of the Special Forces Assessment and Selection Course in a welcome speech to new SF candidates |
#14
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water tank design
pyotr filipivich wrote:
"A pints a pound the world around" - water is approximately 8 pounds to the gallon. 200 gallons is three quarters of a ton. Not in UK it isn't. A UK pint is 1.200949 USA pints, so a UK gallon is about 10lbs. In both languages, 1 cubic foot of water weighs about 62.43lbs, so the proposed (80 cu.ft) tank would hold about 4994.4 lbs (2.23 tons) of water -- Regards, Gary Wooding (To reply by email, change feet to foot in my address) |
#15
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water tank design
I see this as a pressure issue as you mentioned, not a weight or volume
issue. Sixteen inches of water head isn't very much - not even 1 psi. Jordan Karl Townsend wrote: how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. |
#16
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water tank design
Let the Record show that lemelman on or about
Mon, 18 May 2009 09:32:28 +0100 did write/type or cause to appear in rec.crafts.metalworking the following: pyotr filipivich wrote: "A pints a pound the world around" - water is approximately 8 pounds to the gallon. 200 gallons is three quarters of a ton. Not in UK it isn't. A UK pint is 1.200949 USA pints, so a UK gallon is about 10lbs. Well,I did say "approximately". Now I'm going to have to go dig the reference out and check. (As to the "pints a pound" bit - my response on first hearing that was "Man, beer is expensive!") Hmm.. 8 pints to the gallon, 8.345 pounds of water to the US gallon, or .133 cubic foot to the gallon US, so ... whip out ye old calculator, punch, punch, punch, ... well, dang, he's right. In both languages, 1 cubic foot of water weighs about 62.43lbs, so the proposed (80 cu.ft) tank would hold about 4994.4 lbs (2.23 tons) of water I got 2.5 tons of water, "close enough". Still more than I first estimated, and still enough to over stress a system 8-) tschus pyotr "I am always willing to learn. I am not always willing to be taught." WSC - pyotr filipivich We will drink no whiskey before its nine. It's eight fifty eight. Close enough! |
#17
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water tank design
On May 18, 12:59*am, Larry Jaques
wrote: ...I'm too lazy to get the Audel Millwright's book from the bedroom. (It's late; G'night, Karl.) [Next morning, as the coffee slowly takes effect] The 1981 edition has only simple algebra such as figuring rafter lengths. I don't see any structural calculations at all. It's still a useful book that describes a wide range of general handyman skills such as how to frame a house, plus ones more specific to metalworking like the right and wrong ways to install a bearing with a hammer. jsw |
#18
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water tank design
On May 17, 6:36*pm, "Karl Townsend"
wrote: "The Kid" is on a rolling layoff, so I'm hiring him to do the fabrication on my 6' by 10' plasma cutter. We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom *and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. "The Kid" thinks 0.070" or 14 gauge should be enough. I'm leaning toward 0.100" or 11guage to be sure. Any way to know? Second question, if we weld every inch of every seam it will warp for sure. I'd like to just stitch weld it and then use some sort of sealer/filler to prevent leaks. What would work here? Karl Just something to think about... Livestock water tanks are only made of 20 gauge steel even the 10' round ones. Granted they are corragated somewhat and have a metal pipe around the top for reinforcement but still it should give you an idea on what will work. Jesse |
#19
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water tank design
On May 18, 8:45*am, Jesse wrote:
On May 17, 6:36*pm, "Karl Townsend" wrote: "The Kid" is on a rolling layoff, so I'm hiring him to do the fabrication on my 6' by 10' plasma cutter. We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom *and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. "The Kid" thinks 0.070" or 14 gauge should be enough. I'm leaning toward 0.100" or 11guage to be sure. Any way to know? Second question, if we weld every inch of every seam it will warp for sure. I'd like to just stitch weld it and then use some sort of sealer/filler to prevent leaks. What would work here? Karl Just something to think about... Livestock water tanks are only made of 20 gauge steel even the 10' round ones. Granted they are corragated somewhat and have a metal pipe around the top for reinforcement but still it should give you an idea on what will work. * Jesse BTW the livestock water tanks are 24" high. |
#20
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water tank design
On May 18, 8:45*am, Jesse wrote:
On May 17, 6:36*pm, "Karl Townsend" wrote: "The Kid" is on a rolling layoff, so I'm hiring him to do the fabrication on my 6' by 10' plasma cutter. We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom *and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. "The Kid" thinks 0.070" or 14 gauge should be enough. I'm leaning toward 0.100" or 11guage to be sure. Any way to know? Second question, if we weld every inch of every seam it will warp for sure. I'd like to just stitch weld it and then use some sort of sealer/filler to prevent leaks. What would work here? Karl Just something to think about... Livestock water tanks are only made of 20 gauge steel even the 10' round ones. Granted they are corragated somewhat and have a metal pipe around the top for reinforcement but still it should give you an idea on what will work. * Jesse Here is a link to a livestock tank manufacturer: http://www.behlencountry.com/products/galvanized |
#21
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water tank design
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message anews.com... "The Kid" is on a rolling layoff, so I'm hiring him to do the fabrication on my 6' by 10' plasma cutter. We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. "The Kid" thinks 0.070" or 14 gauge should be enough. I'm leaning toward 0.100" or 11guage to be sure. Any way to know? Second question, if we weld every inch of every seam it will warp for sure. I'd like to just stitch weld it and then use some sort of sealer/filler to prevent leaks. What would work here? Karl I built my water tank out of 14 ga hot rolled and it held fine till I got tired of that black water mess. I started exhausting the dust from my machine into a chamber where most of the dust fell out of suspension and then into the great outdoors. Steve |
#22
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water tank design
Karl Townsend wrote:
"The Kid" is on a rolling layoff, so I'm hiring him to do the fabrication on my 6' by 10' plasma cutter. We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. "The Kid" thinks 0.070" or 14 gauge should be enough. I'm leaning toward 0.100" or 11guage to be sure. Any way to know? Second question, if we weld every inch of every seam it will warp for sure. I'd like to just stitch weld it and then use some sort of sealer/filler to prevent leaks. What would work here? Karl As long as you use a support frame around it 10 gauge would work just fine. The portable ponds we use in the fire service are nothing but a canvas tarp with a lightweight support frame. 1500 gallon units are 10'2" per side and 28" deep. A typical support frame will bow 4" in the center of a 10 foot side. Those are 1/2" tube with 1/8" strap bracing every 2 feet or so. Replace the canvas with steel and make the support frame out of 2X2 box and you shouldn't have a problem. Your looking at almost 600 gallons of water at that size. -- Steve W. |
#23
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water tank design
On Mon, 18 May 2009 00:41:54 -0700, the infamous Gunner Asch
scrawled the following: On Sun, 17 May 2009 22:03:10 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: On Sun, 17 May 2009 16:13:39 -0700, the infamous Gunner Asch scrawled the following: On Sun, 17 May 2009 17:36:54 -0500, "Karl Townsend" wrote: "The Kid" is on a rolling layoff, so I'm hiring him to do the fabrication on my 6' by 10' plasma cutter. We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. "The Kid" thinks 0.070" or 14 gauge should be enough. I'm leaning toward 0.100" or 11guage to be sure. Any way to know? Second question, if we weld every inch of every seam it will warp for sure. I'd like to just stitch weld it and then use some sort of sealer/filler to prevent leaks. What would work here? .125 minimum thickness. 1/8th inch. Frankly..Id go to 3/16th inch. or even .250...1/4" Shrug...your choice. If it was only 8" deep..Id say 1/8", with some cross members. But you are asking Sheet Metal to hold 200 gallons of water. Doublecheck your figures. Water's 8.3lbs/gal and 64.5lbs/cu.ft. That's 7.5 gallons per cu.ft. x 78, or 585 gallons if filled to the top. Very good indeed. I was simply pondering without resorting to a calculator. Thanks! Jewelcome. I resorted to the calc because it was in front of me. The formulae were in the other room, thus escaping me. -- No matter how cynical you are, it is impossible to keep up. --Lily Tomlin |
#24
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water tank design
Larry Jaques fired this volley in
: Doublecheck your figures. Water's 8.3lbs/gal and 64.5lbs/cu.ft. That's 7.5 gallons per cu.ft. x 78, or 585 gallons if filled to the top I find 62.43lb/cu.ft. in my water constants reference....?? LLoyd |
#25
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water tank design
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Larry Jaques fired this volley in : Doublecheck your figures. Water's 8.3lbs/gal and 64.5lbs/cu.ft. That's 7.5 gallons per cu.ft. x 78, or 585 gallons if filled to the top I find 62.43lb/cu.ft. in my water constants reference....?? LLoyd Pure water - 62.4 lb./cu.ft. Sea water - 64.1 lb./cu.ft. The water in this area is high mineral and dissolved solids and weighs in at 63.05lb./cu.ft. (actually weighed it for a pump ops class!) -- Steve W. |
#26
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water tank design
On Sun, 17 May 2009 17:36:54 -0500, "Karl Townsend"
wrote: "The Kid" is on a rolling layoff, so I'm hiring him to do the fabrication on my 6' by 10' plasma cutter. We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. "The Kid" thinks 0.070" or 14 gauge should be enough. I'm leaning toward 0.100" or 11guage to be sure. Any way to know? Second question, if we weld every inch of every seam it will warp for sure. I'd like to just stitch weld it and then use some sort of sealer/filler to prevent leaks. What would work here? Karl It depends on your structural design. You have two requirements: one is a water-impervious "skin" that will contain water, the other is a structure that supports the weight of the water at desired height from ground. Both of these requirements can be accomplished by one entity, but they don't necessarily have to be. Example: a structure made of lumber and plywood with a thin water-impervious rubber skin. 16" deep water weighs 83.2 lb per square foot. That will be the pressure at the bottom of the tank, both on the bottom and on the sides. If it is to be at some height above floor or ground, then the bottom structure needs to be a platform capable of supporting 83.2 lb per square foot. The sides will be in tension due to water pressure, but even very thin steel could handle this. A PET (plastic) soda bottle can handle over 100 PSI which is 14,400 lb/ft^2. For structural ideas, look at some trailers. A 4' x 8' trailer rated for (and loaded with) 2662 lb would have 83.2 lb per square ft, and so on. |
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water tank design
pyotr filipivich wrote:
Well,I did say "approximately". Now I'm going to have to go dig the reference out and check. (As to the "pints a pound" bit - my response on first hearing that was "Man, beer is expensive!") Hmm.. 8 pints to the gallon, 8.345 pounds of water to the US gallon, or .133 cubic foot to the gallon US, so ... whip out ye old calculator, punch, punch, punch, ... well, dang, he's right. In both languages, 1 cubic foot of water weighs about 62.43lbs, so the proposed (80 cu.ft) tank would hold about 4994.4 lbs (2.23 tons) of water I got 2.5 tons of water, "close enough". Still more than I first estimated, and still enough to over stress a system 8-) tschus pyotr "I am always willing to learn. I am not always willing to be taught." WSC - pyotr filipivich We will drink no whiskey before its nine. It's eight fifty eight. Close enough! So, in other words, about a queen sized water bed? |
#28
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water tank design
Karl Townsend wrote:
"The Kid" is on a rolling layoff, so I'm hiring him to do the fabrication on my 6' by 10' plasma cutter. We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. "The Kid" thinks 0.070" or 14 gauge should be enough. I'm leaning toward 0.100" or 11guage to be sure. Any way to know? Not exactly my area of expertise, but (when has that ever stopped anyone ;-)): I've helped a couple of friends with a small winery. They have 1000 liter stainless steel fermentation tanks (about 40" diam x 60" high, IIRC). My impression of the tanks' construction is that they were nowhere near 0.10" thick. I can lift one (empty) pretty easily. When filled, they sit on some 4x4s, about 2' apart. So at 16" deep, I don't think you'll need anything too thick as long as you support the tank bottom. These tanks have all welded and ground seams (food grade requirements not to have any place for crud to hide). I don't know how they were welded at the factory, but it must be possible to keep things from warping somehow. -- Paul Hovnanian ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Have gnu, will travel. |
#29
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water tank design
On May 17, 3:36*pm, "Karl Townsend"
wrote: We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom *and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. The total weight of water bears on the bottom of the tank; you need to support that bottom, probably every foot or so, to keep it from warping. Any thickness that has been suggested is 'enough' with suitable support. If you set it on level ground, it can be a kid's vinyl playpool. Your more significant problem is the 10' long straight sidewall, which will be bowed outward by water pressure; at 16", that pressure is rho * g * h = 62*(12**-3) *16 = 0.54 pounds/square inch The bottom of the sidewall, of course, is welded to a stressed sheet, and that will take about half of the force, the other half is 10 ft * 12 in/ft * 16 in * 0.25 * 0.54 psi = 259 lbs None of the suggested sheet thicknesses will hold 259 lbs distributed load without deflecting on a 10' length. You need to put a rigid brace (something like a 2x6 or so) at maybe 8" from the bottom, to keep the sides straight. |
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water tank design
On Mon, 18 May 2009 11:59:48 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote: On May 17, 3:36*pm, "Karl Townsend" wrote: We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom *and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. The total weight of water bears on the bottom of the tank; you need to support that bottom, probably every foot or so, to keep it from warping. Any thickness that has been suggested is 'enough' with suitable support. If you set it on level ground, it can be a kid's vinyl playpool. Your more significant problem is the 10' long straight sidewall, which will be bowed outward by water pressure; at 16", that pressure is rho * g * h = 62*(12**-3) *16 = 0.54 pounds/square inch The bottom of the sidewall, of course, is welded to a stressed sheet, and that will take about half of the force, the other half is 10 ft * 12 in/ft * 16 in * 0.25 * 0.54 psi = 259 lbs None of the suggested sheet thicknesses will hold 259 lbs distributed load without deflecting on a 10' length. You need to put a rigid brace (something like a 2x6 or so) at maybe 8" from the bottom, to keep the sides straight. Indeed. Id suggest one at the top as well. Gunner "Lenin called them "useful idiots," those people living in liberal democracies who by giving moral and material support to a totalitarian ideology in effect were braiding the rope that would hang them. Why people who enjoyed freedom and prosperity worked passionately to destroy both is a fascinating question, one still with us today. Now the useful idiots can be found in the chorus of appeasement, reflexive anti-Americanism, and sentimental idealism trying to inhibit the necessary responses to another freedom-hating ideology, radical Islam" Bruce C. Thornton, a professor of Classics at American University of Cal State Fresno |
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water tank design
Don Foreman wrote:
16" deep water weighs 83.2 lb per square foot. --------------- And that's less than 0.6 psi folks (83.2/144). A 16" can of diameter 1 foot, say, needs just as much strength to contain its contents as 16" x football field area, say. Jordan |
#32
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water tank design
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Larry Jaques fired this volley in : Doublecheck your figures. Water's 8.3lbs/gal and 64.5lbs/cu.ft. That's 7.5 gallons per cu.ft. x 78, or 585 gallons if filled to the top I find 62.43lb/cu.ft. in my water constants reference....?? LLoyd At what temperature is that? When we get down to the .0x lbs. we better specify the temp and the value of G. :-) ...lew... |
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water tank design
Lew Hartswick fired this volley in
m: At what temperature is that? When we get down to the .0x lbs. we better specify the temp and the value of G. :-) ...lew... I'll look it up again, but I seem to remember that was at 20C. In any case, a difference of two pounds per cubic foot isn't accounted for by a few degrees C. LLoyd |
#34
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water tank design
On Mon, 18 May 2009 16:37:26 -0600, the infamous Lew Hartswick
scrawled the following: Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: Larry Jaques fired this volley in : Doublecheck your figures. Water's 8.3lbs/gal and 64.5lbs/cu.ft. That's 7.5 gallons per cu.ft. x 78, or 585 gallons if filled to the top I find 62.43lb/cu.ft. in my water constants reference....?? LLoyd At what temperature is that? When we get down to the .0x lbs. we better specify the temp and the value of G. :-) ...lew... Egad, we missed the RH and sea level coefficients, too! Egg all over our faces, wot? -- No matter how cynical you are, it is impossible to keep up. --Lily Tomlin |
#35
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water tank design
On May 18, 9:10*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Mon, 18 May 2009 16:37:26 -0600, the infamous Lew Hartswick scrawled the following: Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: Larry Jaques fired this volley in m: Doublecheck your figures. Water's 8.3lbs/gal and 64.5lbs/cu.ft. That's 7.5 gallons per cu.ft. x 78, or 585 gallons if filled to the top I find 62.43lb/cu.ft. in my water constants reference....?? LLoyd At what temperature is that? *When we get down to the .0x lbs. we better specify the temp and the value of G. :-) * *...lew... Egad, we missed the RH and sea level coefficients, too! *Egg all over our faces, wot? Then we have to adjust for the temperature rise from all the hot steel falling in. jsw |
#36
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water tank design
Had heavy water numbers maybe ?
Martin :-) Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: Larry Jaques fired this volley in : Doublecheck your figures. Water's 8.3lbs/gal and 64.5lbs/cu.ft. That's 7.5 gallons per cu.ft. x 78, or 585 gallons if filled to the top I find 62.43lb/cu.ft. in my water constants reference....?? LLoyd |
#37
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water tank design
Put a 1/4" bead down the line - with a bead bender. It will strengthen
the side very well. Martin Gunner Asch wrote: On Mon, 18 May 2009 11:59:48 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd wrote: On May 17, 3:36 pm, "Karl Townsend" wrote: We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. The total weight of water bears on the bottom of the tank; you need to support that bottom, probably every foot or so, to keep it from warping. Any thickness that has been suggested is 'enough' with suitable support. If you set it on level ground, it can be a kid's vinyl playpool. Your more significant problem is the 10' long straight sidewall, which will be bowed outward by water pressure; at 16", that pressure is rho * g * h = 62*(12**-3) *16 = 0.54 pounds/square inch The bottom of the sidewall, of course, is welded to a stressed sheet, and that will take about half of the force, the other half is 10 ft * 12 in/ft * 16 in * 0.25 * 0.54 psi = 259 lbs None of the suggested sheet thicknesses will hold 259 lbs distributed load without deflecting on a 10' length. You need to put a rigid brace (something like a 2x6 or so) at maybe 8" from the bottom, to keep the sides straight. Indeed. Id suggest one at the top as well. Gunner "Lenin called them "useful idiots," those people living in liberal democracies who by giving moral and material support to a totalitarian ideology in effect were braiding the rope that would hang them. Why people who enjoyed freedom and prosperity worked passionately to destroy both is a fascinating question, one still with us today. Now the useful idiots can be found in the chorus of appeasement, reflexive anti-Americanism, and sentimental idealism trying to inhibit the necessary responses to another freedom-hating ideology, radical Islam" Bruce C. Thornton, a professor of Classics at American University of Cal State Fresno |
#38
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water tank design
On Mon, 18 May 2009 22:10:23 GMT, Jordan
wrote: Don Foreman wrote: 16" deep water weighs 83.2 lb per square foot. --------------- And that's less than 0.6 psi folks (83.2/144). A 16" can of diameter 1 foot, say, needs just as much strength to contain its contents as 16" x football field area, say. Jordan Right, but the platform load is about double that expected for residential floors. A vinyl above-ground pool could handle the water pressure. |
#39
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water tank design
On Mon, 18 May 2009 22:13:38 -0500, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote: Put a 1/4" bead down the line - with a bead bender. It will strengthen the side very well. Martin Indeed it will. However if the bead gets flattened out... Gunner Gunner Asch wrote: On Mon, 18 May 2009 11:59:48 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd wrote: On May 17, 3:36 pm, "Karl Townsend" wrote: We're building a water tank 16" high by 6' by 10'. Our question, how thick a steel do we need to prevent the water pressure from severely deforming the tank. The main issue is, of course, the bottom and it would be no big deal to put in a reinforcing angle iron every two feet. The total weight of water bears on the bottom of the tank; you need to support that bottom, probably every foot or so, to keep it from warping. Any thickness that has been suggested is 'enough' with suitable support. If you set it on level ground, it can be a kid's vinyl playpool. Your more significant problem is the 10' long straight sidewall, which will be bowed outward by water pressure; at 16", that pressure is rho * g * h = 62*(12**-3) *16 = 0.54 pounds/square inch The bottom of the sidewall, of course, is welded to a stressed sheet, and that will take about half of the force, the other half is 10 ft * 12 in/ft * 16 in * 0.25 * 0.54 psi = 259 lbs None of the suggested sheet thicknesses will hold 259 lbs distributed load without deflecting on a 10' length. You need to put a rigid brace (something like a 2x6 or so) at maybe 8" from the bottom, to keep the sides straight. Indeed. Id suggest one at the top as well. Gunner "Lenin called them "useful idiots," those people living in liberal democracies who by giving moral and material support to a totalitarian ideology in effect were braiding the rope that would hang them. Why people who enjoyed freedom and prosperity worked passionately to destroy both is a fascinating question, one still with us today. Now the useful idiots can be found in the chorus of appeasement, reflexive anti-Americanism, and sentimental idealism trying to inhibit the necessary responses to another freedom-hating ideology, radical Islam" Bruce C. Thornton, a professor of Classics at American University of Cal State Fresno "Lenin called them "useful idiots," those people living in liberal democracies who by giving moral and material support to a totalitarian ideology in effect were braiding the rope that would hang them. Why people who enjoyed freedom and prosperity worked passionately to destroy both is a fascinating question, one still with us today. Now the useful idiots can be found in the chorus of appeasement, reflexive anti-Americanism, and sentimental idealism trying to inhibit the necessary responses to another freedom-hating ideology, radical Islam" Bruce C. Thornton, a professor of Classics at American University of Cal State Fresno |
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water tank design
Let the Record show that cavelamb on or about
Mon, 18 May 2009 13:26:03 -0500 did write/type or cause to appear in rec.crafts.metalworking the following: pyotr filipivich wrote: Well,I did say "approximately". Now I'm going to have to go dig the reference out and check. (As to the "pints a pound" bit - my response on first hearing that was "Man, beer is expensive!") Hmm.. 8 pints to the gallon, 8.345 pounds of water to the US gallon, or .133 cubic foot to the gallon US, so ... whip out ye old calculator, punch, punch, punch, ... well, dang, he's right. In both languages, 1 cubic foot of water weighs about 62.43lbs, so the proposed (80 cu.ft) tank would hold about 4994.4 lbs (2.23 tons) of water I got 2.5 tons of water, "close enough". Still more than I first estimated, and still enough to over stress a system 8-) tschus pyotr "I am always willing to learn. I am not always willing to be taught." WSC So, in other words, about a queen sized water bed? Ummm, yeah, seems about that much, if you say so. Say, if I put a one of them queen size water beds in the other corner of the house (catty whampus from the part which is sagging, you recon I might be able to raise the sagging end enough to rebuild the supports under there? tschus pyotr - pyotr filipivich We will drink no whiskey before its nine. It's eight fifty eight. Close enough! |
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