Someone painted the console of my Lund. Then didn't mask it off, and some
of the spray got on the inside side of the boat. In several places. Ronnie
Milsap coulda did a better job.

I'm going to pull the console and the bench and everything else that will
come out for recarpeting. While it's out, I'll paint it right. But I need
to take off the paint from the aluminum. Suggestions? A vibrating sander?
Acetone? Paint remover? Scouring pads? What will look decent without
buffing it up? And if I do buff it up, how would I age it quickly to dull
it down before I put the parts back in there?

Help appreciated.

Steve

On Fri, 27 Mar 2009 21:29:47 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

Someone painted the console of my Lund. Then didn't mask it off, and some
of the spray got on the inside side of the boat. In several places. Ronnie
Milsap coulda did a better job.

I'm going to pull the console and the bench and everything else that will
come out for recarpeting. While it's out, I'll paint it right. But I need
to take off the paint from the aluminum. Suggestions? A vibrating sander?
Acetone? Paint remover? Scouring pads? What will look decent without
buffing it up? And if I do buff it up, how would I age it quickly to dull
it down before I put the parts back in there?

Help appreciated.

Steve

Depends some on what the paint is. Since they didn't mask, it seems
likely that they didn't use good (pricey) paint so it probably isn't
2-part urethane like Imron, more likely an acrylic lacquer or
something from a rattlecan. Paint I got from Alumacraft (years ago)
was acrylic lacquer. Lacquer thinner will remove lacquer with ease.

I'd start with acetone or lacquer thinner, see if that works. If not,
try paint remover. If that fails, Scotchbrite will definitely do the
job, particularly the Roll-loc discs in a pneumatic die grinder -- but
they will definitely buff it up some. A sander is more aggressive
than necessary and suitably-fine-grit paper will clog very quickly.

Unless the overspray is Imron or similar, I'd be quite surprised if a
Scotchbrite pad wet with lacquer thinner and operated by (gloved) hand
wouldn't get 'er done in jig time.

If it gets buffed up, or even if it doesn't, get some Ditzler/PPG
Alumaprep #33 and apply that. When time to paint, I'd follow with
Alodine.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo.../alumiprep.php

These treatments prepare ally so about any paint wets, flows and
adheres with a vengeance. A body shop or auto paint supplier should
have these products or something similar. A quart of each would be
way plenty for this project and several more. If you want to keep
cost to a min you could skip the alodyne with little loss in job
quality.

On Fri, 27 Mar 2009 21:29:47 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

Someone painted the console of my Lund. Then didn't mask it off, and some
of the spray got on the inside side of the boat. In several places. Ronnie
Milsap coulda did a better job.

I'm going to pull the console and the bench and everything else that will
come out for recarpeting. While it's out, I'll paint it right. But I need
to take off the paint from the aluminum. Suggestions? A vibrating sander?
Acetone? Paint remover? Scouring pads? What will look decent without
buffing it up? And if I do buff it up, how would I age it quickly to dull
it down before I put the parts back in there?

Help appreciated.

Steve



MEK

dont get on your skin.

On Sat, 28 Mar 2009 00:16:45 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Mar 2009 21:29:47 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

Someone painted the console of my Lund. Then didn't mask it off, and some
of the spray got on the inside side of the boat. In several places. Ronnie
Milsap coulda did a better job.

I'm going to pull the console and the bench and everything else that will
come out for recarpeting. While it's out, I'll paint it right. But I need
to take off the paint from the aluminum. Suggestions? A vibrating sander?
Acetone? Paint remover? Scouring pads? What will look decent without
buffing it up? And if I do buff it up, how would I age it quickly to dull
it down before I put the parts back in there?

Help appreciated.

Steve

Depends some on what the paint is. Since they didn't mask, it seems
likely that they didn't use good (pricey) paint so it probably isn't
2-part urethane like Imron, more likely an acrylic lacquer or
something from a rattlecan. Paint I got from Alumacraft (years ago)
was acrylic lacquer. Lacquer thinner will remove lacquer with ease.

I'd start with acetone or lacquer thinner, see if that works. If not,
try paint remover. If that fails, Scotchbrite will definitely do the
job, particularly the Roll-loc discs in a pneumatic die grinder -- but
they will definitely buff it up some. A sander is more aggressive
than necessary and suitably-fine-grit paper will clog very quickly.

Unless the overspray is Imron or similar, I'd be quite surprised if a
Scotchbrite pad wet with lacquer thinner and operated by (gloved) hand
wouldn't get 'er done in jig time.

If it gets buffed up, or even if it doesn't, get some Ditzler/PPG
Alumaprep #33 and apply that. When time to paint, I'd follow with
Alodine.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo.../alumiprep.php

These treatments prepare ally so about any paint wets, flows and
adheres with a vengeance. A body shop or auto paint supplier should
have these products or something similar. A quart of each would be
way plenty for this project and several more. If you want to keep
cost to a min you could skip the alodyne with little loss in job
quality.


I'd like to add one caution. Do not use the common "etching primer"
and overcoat with a two part polyurethane paint. Experience has shown
that the two part causes the primer to come off :-(

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

If it's lacquer try acetone. It's probably shake-n-shoot enamel of some
type.

MEK. For flat surfaces pour some on and let it work for 5 minutes or so.
For
curved/intricate/verticle, fold up some paper towels to make a pad, soak
with
MEK, and put on surface. Let it work a bit and wipe off the paint.

MEK. Not as bad as some, but flammable, and the fumes will knock you on
your
butt.

Little MEK story. Used to work for a rock crusher manufacturer. Had a BIG
paint
booth building. When the paint would build up to 1/2" or so on the floor,
the painter
would slop a 5 gallon bucket of MEK on the floor, close up the building for
an hour.
Reach in and flip on the fans for 10 minutes or so and then we would clean
the floor.
1/2" thick industrial enamel was softened up like oatmeal. Scooped it up
with a shovel.
Neat stuff!

On Sat, 28 Mar 2009 13:26:01 GMT, "Bill Marrs"
wrote:

If it's lacquer try acetone. It's probably shake-n-shoot enamel of some
type.

MEK. For flat surfaces pour some on and let it work for 5 minutes or so.
For
curved/intricate/verticle, fold up some paper towels to make a pad, soak
with
MEK, and put on surface. Let it work a bit and wipe off the paint.

MEK. Not as bad as some, but flammable, and the fumes will knock you on
your
butt.

Little MEK story. Used to work for a rock crusher manufacturer. Had a BIG
paint
booth building. When the paint would build up to 1/2" or so on the floor,
the painter
would slop a 5 gallon bucket of MEK on the floor, close up the building for
an hour.
Reach in and flip on the fans for 10 minutes or so and then we would clean
the floor.
1/2" thick industrial enamel was softened up like oatmeal. Scooped it up
with a shovel.
Neat stuff!


a friend of mine, now deceased sadly, was complaining to me about the
wasted cost of the overspray of expensive aircraft epoxy paint on his
hangar floor. when it came time to spray the tube fuselage of my
aircraft I did it in about the same time as he did. he came to watch
and coach.
at the end of painting my fuselage I had the merest hint of overspray
dust on the hangar floor. he couldnt believe that I'd sprayed the
entire tube fuselage in the hangar so I cranked up the sprayer for the
last section.
the difference was that I used an aeromodellers revell airbrush. the
real simple little one that uses a small glass bottle and has an
on/off air control and nothing else. the paint was mixed and thinned
in the bottom half of a clean coke can and decanted into the little
bottle. because the revell had a spray width about the same as the
tube diameter there was no overspray.
I also needed about a tenth of the solvent thinners that he had used
and inhaled. getting the little airbrush into the nooks and crannies
was no trouble at all.

couldnt you use a smaller spray gun?

"SteveB" wrote in news:i6i0a6-clb1.ln1
@news.infowest.com:

Someone painted the console of my Lund. Then didn't mask it off, and some
of the spray got on the inside side of the boat. In several places.
Ronnie
Milsap coulda did a better job.

I'm going to pull the console and the bench and everything else that will
come out for recarpeting. While it's out, I'll paint it right. But I need
to take off the paint from the aluminum. Suggestions? A vibrating sander?
Acetone? Paint remover? Scouring pads? What will look decent without
buffing it up? And if I do buff it up, how would I age it quickly to dull
it down before I put the parts back in there?

Help appreciated.

Steve




Permatex Gasket Remover will take off just about any paint. I've never used
it on aluminum though. I'd test it on a scrap of the same alloy first, but
it literally turns paint and primer into a jelly that wipes off with a rag.

Don's right about using Alumaprep. Just remember, every second counts
between prepping and painting with aluminum. Bare aluminum starts oxidizing
immediately when exposed to air.

SOS pad works great. It was light overspray. A little polishing, but that
will oxidize.

Steve

"Stealth Pilot" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 28 Mar 2009 13:26:01 GMT, "Bill Marrs"
wrote:

If it's lacquer try acetone. It's probably shake-n-shoot enamel of some
type.

MEK. For flat surfaces pour some on and let it work for 5 minutes or so.
For
curved/intricate/verticle, fold up some paper towels to make a pad, soak
with
MEK, and put on surface. Let it work a bit and wipe off the paint.

MEK. Not as bad as some, but flammable, and the fumes will knock you on
your
butt.

Little MEK story. Used to work for a rock crusher manufacturer. Had a
BIG
paint
booth building. When the paint would build up to 1/2" or so on the floor,
the painter
would slop a 5 gallon bucket of MEK on the floor, close up the building
for
an hour.
Reach in and flip on the fans for 10 minutes or so and then we would clean
the floor.
1/2" thick industrial enamel was softened up like oatmeal. Scooped it up
with a shovel.
Neat stuff!


a friend of mine, now deceased sadly, was complaining to me about the
wasted cost of the overspray of expensive aircraft epoxy paint on his
hangar floor. when it came time to spray the tube fuselage of my
aircraft I did it in about the same time as he did. he came to watch
and coach.
at the end of painting my fuselage I had the merest hint of overspray
dust on the hangar floor. he couldnt believe that I'd sprayed the
entire tube fuselage in the hangar so I cranked up the sprayer for the
last section.
the difference was that I used an aeromodellers revell airbrush. the
real simple little one that uses a small glass bottle and has an
on/off air control and nothing else. the paint was mixed and thinned
in the bottom half of a clean coke can and decanted into the little
bottle. because the revell had a spray width about the same as the
tube diameter there was no overspray.
I also needed about a tenth of the solvent thinners that he had used
and inhaled. getting the little airbrush into the nooks and crannies
was no trouble at all.

couldnt you use a smaller spray gun?

On Mar 27, 9:29*pm, "SteveB" wrote:
Someone painted the console of my Lund. *Then didn't mask it off, and some
of the spray got on the inside side of the boat. *In several places. *Ronnie
Milsap coulda did a better job.

I'm going to pull the console and the bench and everything else that will
come out for recarpeting. *While it's out, I'll paint it right. *But I need
to take off the paint from the aluminum. *Suggestions? *A vibrating sander?
Acetone? *Paint remover? *Scouring pads? *What will look decent without
buffing it up? *And if I do buff it up, how would I age it quickly to dull
it down before I put the parts back in there?

Help appreciated.

Steve

If nothing else works, aircraft paint stripper will. If you use
chemical means, you probably won't lose any polish on the alloy
underneath, if that's important. If you're going to paint it anyway,
sand away! I've gotten the real stuff from a body shop supplier,
hardware store brands are a very poor substitute.

While you're there, check out what they've got for prepping aluminum
for paint, there are a number of primers and conversion coatings that
can be had. If you really want a durable job,check into automotive
finishes. Short of the stuff they use on oil rigs, it's about the
toughest stuff. You'll want to get all the stuff, primer paint,
thinner, hardener, from the same paint maker, the "families" all work
together.

Stan

On Mar 27, 10:16*pm, Don Foreman
wrote:
On Fri, 27 Mar 2009 21:29:47 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

Someone painted the console of my Lund. *Then didn't mask it off, and some
of the spray got on the inside side of the boat. *In several places. *Ronnie
Milsap coulda did a better job.

I'm going to pull the console and the bench and everything else that will
come out for recarpeting. *While it's out, I'll paint it right. *But I need
to take off the paint from the aluminum. *Suggestions? *A vibrating sander?
Acetone? *Paint remover? *Scouring pads? *What will look decent without
buffing it up? *And if I do buff it up, how would I age it quickly to dull
it down before I put the parts back in there?

Help appreciated.

Steve

Depends some on what the paint is. *Since they didn't mask, it seems
likely that they didn't use good (pricey) paint so it probably isn't
2-part urethane like Imron, more likely an acrylic lacquer or
something from a rattlecan. *Paint I got from Alumacraft (years ago)
was acrylic lacquer. Lacquer thinner will remove lacquer with ease.

I'd start with acetone or lacquer thinner, see if that works. If not,
try paint remover. *If that fails, *Scotchbrite will definitely do the
job, particularly the Roll-loc discs in a pneumatic die grinder -- but
they will definitely buff it up some. *A sander is more aggressive
than necessary and suitably-fine-grit paper will clog very quickly. *

Unless the overspray is Imron or similar, I'd be quite surprised if a
Scotchbrite pad wet with lacquer thinner and operated by (gloved) hand
wouldn't get 'er done in jig time. * *

If it gets buffed up, or even if it doesn't, *get some Ditzler/PPG
Alumaprep #33 and apply that. *When time to paint, I'd follow with
Alodine.http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo.../alumiprep.php

These treatments prepare ally so about any paint wets, flows and
adheres with a vengeance. *A body shop or auto paint supplier should
have these products or something similar. *A quart of each would be
way plenty for this project and several more. *If you want to keep
cost to a min you could skip the alodyne with little loss in job
quality. *





Aluminun is corroded both ways ,

acids ,
caustics .

Mercury eats it fast ...

Other bases like steel can be paint stripped using some extreme
caustics .

Paint removers must work under protection of a gel , to
keep out air ..
You wire brush the gel around til it penetrates the paint ,all
the way to the base ...



BTW The new E-Welders have potential that is missing and
too expensive to implement on old , heavy welders .
So i bought 5 Harbor Fright $200 welders . Great as a pow source
for MIG !
Also got a combo , Plasma , TIG , Stick from Longevity-inc.com.
Its has no pilot arc , but cuts almost same . Has a foot control ,
that works on Stick and TIG .

I dont like Simon K' , he has problems , tries to blame customers
for his faulty website .
If you find a welder combo elsewhere , buy it there .

Im real thrilled with the ability to start a weld at high power ,
til the metal gets hot , shut down to 10% of that HEAT .
I can weld 1/4" plate to a thin skin , say .020 !!
but of course the edge of 1/4 is tapered ...

i also got $700 HF Plasma , then i learned about combo units
for same price ! ha ha ha ...
HF uses a AT91 microprocessor , its NOT needed ..
Uses a heavy inductor to PILOT arc the plasma .
circuitry is typical , 10 times too many transistors , relays and
parts ! Dont buy the other HF Plasma , its output is too low for
the bucks .
The bitch is the air compressor , my HF $700 Plasma wastes
air "cooling" the torch too much . Not needed ,
It wastes 4 CFM . You can fine tune that to 2 CFM ...




kc7cc yahoo com

SteveB wrote:
Someone painted the console of my Lund. Then didn't mask it off, and some
of the spray got on the inside side of the boat. In several places. Ronnie
Milsap coulda did a better job.

I'm going to pull the console and the bench and everything else that will
come out for recarpeting. While it's out, I'll paint it right. But I need
to take off the paint from the aluminum. Suggestions? A vibrating sander?
Acetone? Paint remover? Scouring pads? What will look decent without
buffing it up? And if I do buff it up, how would I age it quickly to dull
it down before I put the parts back in there?

Steve, my favorite low-impact paint remover is DOT 3 brake fluid.
Buy a quart for $3.00, brush it on, then come back in an hour and it
will wipe off.