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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Adjusting an overload properly
I have been cleaning up this Quincy install by properly tucking cables
into conduits, wiring things correctly, using crimped terminals where appropriate, etc. My Quincy compressor comes with a nice old Size 2 electrical control. The nice thing about it is that overloads are adjustable by turning little knobs, so I do not have to buy overload heaters. At 220v, it is rated at up to 15 HP. The motor I have on the compressor right now, is 10 HP. The compressor was wired for 440 volts originally and had a 7.5 HP motor (much bigger than my current 10 HP motor). So the overload setting that it had set, obviously would not match. For for the first few weeks I did not use overloads by bypassing them, but now I want to set them properly. The question is what is "properly". My thinking is that in this context, it means that the compressor can reliably restart at the restarting pressure (100 PSI or so), but at the same time, overloads should pop in a second or so if the motor is stalled. I can reproduce a stalled motor very easily, by stopping the compressor when there is pressure in the tank, and restarting within a minute, before unloaders bleed enough air. (I hope that it is not an indication that something is wrong with unloaders, a separate topic) I already set the overloads, apparently high enough so that they do not pop when the motor is running regularly. So, therefore, to me the procedure now would be to turn them down, to the point when they reliably pop on a stalled motor, but when compressor still starts well. Am I missing something and is that too unscientific? -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#2
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Adjusting an overload properly
"Ignoramus16649" wrote in message The question is what is "properly". There may be a more scientific method, but that's what I have always seen. Even the adjustable breaker on 150 HP pumps are often set by "experience". Set it just high enough for normal operation, and if it ever fails prematurely just bump it up a little. |
#3
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Adjusting an overload properly
On 2009-03-04, Elliot G wrote:
"Ignoramus16649" wrote in message The question is what is "properly". There may be a more scientific method, but that's what I have always seen. Even the adjustable breaker on 150 HP pumps are often set by "experience". Set it just high enough for normal operation, and if it ever fails prematurely just bump it up a little. Makes sense. This is not life support equipment. If the overload pops one day when it should not have, not the end of the world. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#4
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Adjusting an overload properly
Ignoramus16649 wrote: I have been cleaning up this Quincy install by properly tucking cables into conduits, wiring things correctly, using crimped terminals where appropriate, etc. My Quincy compressor comes with a nice old Size 2 electrical control. The nice thing about it is that overloads are adjustable by turning little knobs, so I do not have to buy overload heaters. At 220v, it is rated at up to 15 HP. The motor I have on the compressor right now, is 10 HP. The compressor was wired for 440 volts originally and had a 7.5 HP motor (much bigger than my current 10 HP motor). So the overload setting that it had set, obviously would not match. For for the first few weeks I did not use overloads by bypassing them, but now I want to set them properly. The question is what is "properly". My thinking is that in this context, it means that the compressor can reliably restart at the restarting pressure (100 PSI or so), but at the same time, overloads should pop in a second or so if the motor is stalled. I can reproduce a stalled motor very easily, by stopping the compressor when there is pressure in the tank, and restarting within a minute, before unloaders bleed enough air. (I hope that it is not an indication that something is wrong with unloaders, a separate topic) I already set the overloads, apparently high enough so that they do not pop when the motor is running regularly. So, therefore, to me the procedure now would be to turn them down, to the point when they reliably pop on a stalled motor, but when compressor still starts well. Am I missing something and is that too unscientific? What restatarting pressure??? That's what unloader valves are for, it's not supposed to restart under pressure. If it takes any amount of time for the unloaders to unload, I'd examine them closely as I think they should be near instant. |
#5
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Adjusting an overload properly
On 2009-03-04, Pete C. wrote:
Ignoramus16649 wrote: I have been cleaning up this Quincy install by properly tucking cables into conduits, wiring things correctly, using crimped terminals where appropriate, etc. My Quincy compressor comes with a nice old Size 2 electrical control. The nice thing about it is that overloads are adjustable by turning little knobs, so I do not have to buy overload heaters. At 220v, it is rated at up to 15 HP. The motor I have on the compressor right now, is 10 HP. The compressor was wired for 440 volts originally and had a 7.5 HP motor (much bigger than my current 10 HP motor). So the overload setting that it had set, obviously would not match. For for the first few weeks I did not use overloads by bypassing them, but now I want to set them properly. The question is what is "properly". My thinking is that in this context, it means that the compressor can reliably restart at the restarting pressure (100 PSI or so), but at the same time, overloads should pop in a second or so if the motor is stalled. I can reproduce a stalled motor very easily, by stopping the compressor when there is pressure in the tank, and restarting within a minute, before unloaders bleed enough air. (I hope that it is not an indication that something is wrong with unloaders, a separate topic) I already set the overloads, apparently high enough so that they do not pop when the motor is running regularly. So, therefore, to me the procedure now would be to turn them down, to the point when they reliably pop on a stalled motor, but when compressor still starts well. Am I missing something and is that too unscientific? What restatarting pressure??? That's what unloader valves are for, it's not supposed to restart under pressure. If it takes any amount of time for the unloaders to unload, I'd examine them closely as I think they should be near instant. It takes about 1-2 minutes for unloaders to unload enough so that the compressor can restart. Possibly, this is wrong. I do not know. In practice, this should not be an issue, as going from full tank to restart should take more than that, but still it may indicate that something is wrong with unloaders. With overload adjusted properly, the worst case outcome would be the overload tripping. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#6
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Adjusting an overload properly
On Mar 4, 6:57*am, Ignoramus16649 ignoramus16...@NOSPAM.
16649.invalid wrote: On 2009-03-04, Pete C. wrote: Ignoramus16649 wrote: I have been cleaning up this Quincy install by properly tucking cables into conduits, wiring things correctly, using crimped terminals where appropriate, etc. My Quincy compressor comes with a nice old Size 2 electrical control. The nice thing about it is that overloads are adjustable by turning little knobs, so I do not have to buy overload heaters. At 220v, it is rated at up to 15 HP. The motor I have on the compressor right now, is 10 HP. The compressor was wired for 440 volts originally and had a 7.5 HP motor (much bigger than my current 10 HP motor). So the overload setting that it had set, obviously would not match. For for the first few weeks I did not use overloads by bypassing them, but now I want to set them properly. The question is what is "properly". My thinking is that in this context, it means that the compressor can reliably restart at the restarting pressure (100 PSI or so), but at the same time, overloads should pop in a second or so if the motor is stalled. I can reproduce a stalled motor very easily, by stopping the compressor when there is pressure in the tank, and restarting within a minute, before unloaders bleed enough air. (I hope that it is not an indication that something is wrong with unloaders, a separate topic) I already set the overloads, apparently high enough so that they do not pop when the motor is running regularly. So, therefore, to me the procedure now would be to turn them down, to the point when they reliably pop on a stalled motor, but when compressor still starts well. Am I missing something and is that too unscientific? What restatarting pressure??? That's what unloader valves are for, it's not supposed to restart under pressure. If it takes any amount of time for the unloaders to unload, I'd examine them closely as I think they should be near instant. It takes about 1-2 minutes for unloaders to unload enough so that the compressor can restart. Possibly, this is wrong. I do not know. In practice, this should not be an issue, as going from full tank to restart should take more than that, but still it may indicate that something is wrong with unloaders. With overload adjusted properly, the worst case outcome would be the overload tripping. -- * *Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention * * * to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating * * * *from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by * * * * *more readers you will need to find a different means of * * * * * * * * * * * *posting on Usenet. * * * * * * * * * *http://improve-usenet.org/ The unloaders on my big compressor at the plant do the job in less than 15 seconds after the compressor stops. Been this way since it was new, about 10 years ago. Does this help? Paul |
#8
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Adjusting an overload properly
"Ignoramus16649" wrote in message ... On 2009-03-04, wrote: On Mar 4, 6:57?am, Ignoramus16649 ignoramus16...@NOSPAM. It takes about 1-2 minutes for unloaders to unload enough so that the compressor can restart. Possibly, this is wrong. I do not know. In practice, this should not be an issue, as going from full tank to restart should take more than that, but still it may indicate that something is wrong with unloaders. With overload adjusted properly, the worst case outcome would be the overload tripping. The unloaders on my big compressor at the plant do the job in less than 15 seconds after the compressor stops. Been this way since it was new, about 10 years ago. Does this help? Definitely, it helps. I will look into this. Both my 5 and 10 hp compressors unload in 5 seconds or so. |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Adjusting an overload properly
Ignoramus16649 wrote:
I have been cleaning up this Quincy install by properly tucking cables into conduits, wiring things correctly, using crimped terminals where appropriate, etc. My Quincy compressor comes with a nice old Size 2 electrical control. The nice thing about it is that overloads are adjustable by turning little knobs, so I do not have to buy overload heaters. At 220v, it is rated at up to 15 HP. The motor I have on the compressor right now, is 10 HP. The compressor was wired for 440 volts originally and had a 7.5 HP motor (much bigger than my current 10 HP motor). So the overload setting that it had set, obviously would not match. For for the first few weeks I did not use overloads by bypassing them, but now I want to set them properly. The question is what is "properly". I'm no expert, but I think I'd do it by looking up the full-load and locked rotor current draw of the motor and setting the overload current somewhere in between. My thinking is that in this context, it means that the compressor can reliably restart at the restarting pressure (100 PSI or so), but at the same time, overloads should pop in a second or so if the motor is stalled. I can reproduce a stalled motor very easily, by stopping the compressor when there is pressure in the tank, and restarting within a minute, before unloaders bleed enough air. (I hope that it is not an indication that something is wrong with unloaders, a separate topic) I already set the overloads, apparently high enough so that they do not pop when the motor is running regularly. So, therefore, to me the procedure now would be to turn them down, to the point when they reliably pop on a stalled motor, but when compressor still starts well. Am I missing something and is that too unscientific? |
#10
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Adjusting an overload properly
On 2009-03-04, Jim Stewart wrote:
Ignoramus16649 wrote: I have been cleaning up this Quincy install by properly tucking cables into conduits, wiring things correctly, using crimped terminals where appropriate, etc. My Quincy compressor comes with a nice old Size 2 electrical control. The nice thing about it is that overloads are adjustable by turning little knobs, so I do not have to buy overload heaters. At 220v, it is rated at up to 15 HP. The motor I have on the compressor right now, is 10 HP. The compressor was wired for 440 volts originally and had a 7.5 HP motor (much bigger than my current 10 HP motor). So the overload setting that it had set, obviously would not match. For for the first few weeks I did not use overloads by bypassing them, but now I want to set them properly. The question is what is "properly". I'm no expert, but I think I'd do it by looking up the full-load and locked rotor current draw of the motor and setting the overload current somewhere in between. The adjusting knobs do not have current written on them. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#11
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Adjusting an overload properly
Ignoramus16649 wrote:
The question is what is "properly". Keep turning it down until you get a nuisance trip then back up a bit. Obviously check running current to make sure you are running inside motor's ability. Wes |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Adjusting an overload properly
"Ignoramus16649" wrote in message ... I have been cleaning up this Quincy install by properly tucking cables into conduits, wiring things correctly, using crimped terminals where appropriate, etc. My Quincy compressor comes with a nice old Size 2 electrical control. The nice thing about it is that overloads are adjustable by turning little knobs, so I do not have to buy overload heaters. At 220v, it is rated at up to 15 HP. The motor I have on the compressor right now, is 10 HP. The compressor was wired for 440 volts originally and had a 7.5 HP motor (much bigger than my current 10 HP motor). So the overload setting that it had set, obviously would not match. For for the first few weeks I did not use overloads by bypassing them, but now I want to set them properly. The question is what is "properly". My thinking is that in this context, it means that the compressor can reliably restart at the restarting pressure (100 PSI or so), but at the same time, overloads should pop in a second or so if the motor is stalled. I can reproduce a stalled motor very easily, by stopping the compressor when there is pressure in the tank, and restarting within a minute, before unloaders bleed enough air. (I hope that it is not an indication that something is wrong with unloaders, a separate topic) I already set the overloads, apparently high enough so that they do not pop when the motor is running regularly. So, therefore, to me the procedure now would be to turn them down, to the point when they reliably pop on a stalled motor, but when compressor still starts well. Am I missing something and is that too unscientific? -- Mine unload the heads in less than 2 seconds. When they start, the unloaders stay open for three to four seconds. Yours looks the same with a diaphragm forcing the valve open until oil pressure shuts off the air to the top side of the diaphragm. |
#13
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Adjusting an overload properly
Ignoramus16649 wrote:
It takes about 1-2 minutes for unloaders to unload enough so that the compressor can restart. Possibly, this is wrong. I do not know. In practice, this should not be an issue, as going from full tank to restart should take more than that, but still it may indicate that something is wrong with unloaders. Doesn't your Quincy have pneumatic unloader diaphragms on the intake valves? You apply air pressure to these diaphragms and a pin drops down to keep the intake valves from closing. When the compressor is up to speed, something (electrical, pneumatic or oil pressure) cuts off the air to the unloaders, the pins retract, and the compressor starts pumping. It sounds like you are talking about an unloader in the delivery line to the tank. When it bleeds off pressure, it has to remove all the pressure in the whole compressor, including the high pressure cylinder and intercooler. This is kind of the hard way to unload a 2-stage compressor. I have a smaller one-stage Quincy, and rigged up an electronic dual-mode controller for it. It unloads until the compressor is up to speed and has oil pressure, then unloads when the tank pressure is at the set point. It keeps the motor running until either more air is needed or a minute has elapsed. When the motor time elapses, it shuts down with the valves unloaded, so the compressor stops smoothly, without a chug-chug-chug. The control also shuts the compressor off if it ever pumps for a full 10 minutes without ever filling the tank, or if it loses oil pressure. Jon |
#14
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Adjusting an overload properly
On 2009-03-04, Buerste wrote:
Mine unload the heads in less than 2 seconds. When they start, the unloaders stay open for three to four seconds. Yours looks the same with a diaphragm forcing the valve open until oil pressure shuts off the air to the top side of the diaphragm. I have almost no clue as to how unloaders actually operate on the QR-25 head. Do you know anything about it, I will be eternally grateful for any info. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#15
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Adjusting an overload properly
Ignoramus16649 wrote:
I have almost no clue as to how unloaders actually operate on the QR-25 head. Do you know anything about it, I will be eternally grateful for any info. The idea of an unloader is to let the pump start w/o the resistance of the pressure in the tank. Then after you have the pump, motor, and pulleys at full speed, connect the pump output to the tank. Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller |
#16
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Adjusting an overload properly
"Ignoramus16649" wrote in message ... On 2009-03-04, Buerste wrote: Mine unload the heads in less than 2 seconds. When they start, the unloaders stay open for three to four seconds. Yours looks the same with a diaphragm forcing the valve open until oil pressure shuts off the air to the top side of the diaphragm. I have almost no clue as to how unloaders actually operate on the QR-25 head. Do you know anything about it, I will be eternally grateful for any info. -- The top of the diaphragm on top of the valve is supplied air pressure from the tank side. The diaphragm pushes down on three pins in the valve body and prevents the disk valve from seating. There is an air valve on the air tube going to the diaphragm. This valve is operated by oil pressure from the running compressor. Therefore, no oil pressure = air valve open = diaphragm unseating disk valve. If there is no air pressure in on the tank side, the disk valve will seat letting the compressor pump air. If the oil pressure is up, the air valve is closed letting the disk valve seat and the compressor pump. This is a good set-up, if the oil pressure fails for any reason, the disk valve won't seat and the compressor won't get damaged from no oil. Not fool-proof, but good! The diaphragm is reinforced rubber and does wear out, be warned. |
#17
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Adjusting an overload properly
On 2009-03-04, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus16649 wrote: I have almost no clue as to how unloaders actually operate on the QR-25 head. Do you know anything about it, I will be eternally grateful for any info. The idea of an unloader is to let the pump start w/o the resistance of the pressure in the tank. Then after you have the pump, motor, and pulleys at full speed, connect the pump output to the tank. That's about as far as I actualy knew. Jon's post shed a lot of light on the subject as he described his own Quincy compressor. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#18
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Adjusting an overload properly
On 2009-03-04, Ignoramus16649 wrote:
On 2009-03-04, Elliot G wrote: "Ignoramus16649" wrote in message The question is what is "properly". There may be a more scientific method, but that's what I have always seen. Even the adjustable breaker on 150 HP pumps are often set by "experience". Set it just high enough for normal operation, and if it ever fails prematurely just bump it up a little. Makes sense. This is not life support equipment. If the overload pops one day when it should not have, not the end of the world. Except if you are running it from a VFD (IIRC, a VFD was somewhere in the equation), you really don't want the overloads popping between the VFD and the motor -- and the VFD itself should perform the function of the overloads as well. As long as you are running it from three phase from a rotary converter, yes you want the overloads. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#19
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Adjusting an overload properly
On 2009-03-05, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2009-03-04, Ignoramus16649 wrote: On 2009-03-04, Elliot G wrote: "Ignoramus16649" wrote in message The question is what is "properly". There may be a more scientific method, but that's what I have always seen. Even the adjustable breaker on 150 HP pumps are often set by "experience". Set it just high enough for normal operation, and if it ever fails prematurely just bump it up a little. Makes sense. This is not life support equipment. If the overload pops one day when it should not have, not the end of the world. Except if you are running it from a VFD (IIRC, a VFD was somewhere in the equation), you really don't want the overloads popping between the VFD and the motor -- and the VFD itself should perform the function of the overloads as well. As long as you are running it from three phase from a rotary converter, yes you want the overloads. I have more or less changed my mind, and am feeling rather good about running it from a phase converter. It is quiet and reliable. If I would run it from a VFD, which is still a possibility, I would not use that motor starter for any purpose. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#20
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Adjusting an overload properly
On 2009-03-04, Ignoramus16649 wrote:
On 2009-03-04, Buerste wrote: Mine unload the heads in less than 2 seconds. When they start, the unloaders stay open for three to four seconds. Yours looks the same with a diaphragm forcing the valve open until oil pressure shuts off the air to the top side of the diaphragm. I have almost no clue as to how unloaders actually operate on the QR-25 head. Do you know anything about it, I will be eternally grateful for any info. Do your unloaders actually drain the tank? If so, then a check valve may be bad. Given the time the unloaders take to work, I suspect something wrong. Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#21
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Adjusting an overload properly
"Ignoramus16649" wrote in message ... I have been cleaning up this Quincy install by properly tucking cables into conduits, wiring things correctly, using crimped terminals where appropriate, etc. My Quincy compressor comes with a nice old Size 2 electrical control. The nice thing about it is that overloads are adjustable by turning little knobs, so I do not have to buy overload heaters. At 220v, it is rated at up to 15 HP. The motor I have on the compressor right now, is 10 HP. The compressor was wired for 440 volts originally and had a 7.5 HP motor (much bigger than my current 10 HP motor). So the overload setting that it had set, obviously would not match. For for the first few weeks I did not use overloads by bypassing them, but now I want to set them properly. The question is what is "properly". My thinking is that in this context, it means that the compressor can reliably restart at the restarting pressure (100 PSI or so), but at the same time, overloads should pop in a second or so if the motor is stalled. I can reproduce a stalled motor very easily, by stopping the compressor when there is pressure in the tank, and restarting within a minute, before unloaders bleed enough air. (I hope that it is not an indication that something is wrong with unloaders, a separate topic) I already set the overloads, apparently high enough so that they do not pop when the motor is running regularly. So, therefore, to me the procedure now would be to turn them down, to the point when they reliably pop on a stalled motor, but when compressor still starts well. Am I missing something and is that too unscientific? -- Normally I just set the overloads to the full load amps of the motor. They should be designed to allow over current for starting but pop before the motor gets hot enough to damage it. RogerN |
#22
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Adjusting an overload properly
Ignoramus16649 wrote:
That's about as far as I actualy knew. Jon's post shed a lot of light on the subject as he described his own Quincy compressor. His is a far more complex unloader system than most. Nice touches though! Wes |
#23
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Adjusting an overload properly
"RogerN" wrote in message m... "Ignoramus16649" wrote in message ... I have been cleaning up this Quincy install by properly tucking cables into conduits, wiring things correctly, using crimped terminals where appropriate, etc. My Quincy compressor comes with a nice old Size 2 electrical control. The nice thing about it is that overloads are adjustable by turning little knobs, so I do not have to buy overload heaters. At 220v, it is rated at up to 15 HP. The motor I have on the compressor right now, is 10 HP. The compressor was wired for 440 volts originally and had a 7.5 HP motor (much bigger than my current 10 HP motor). So the overload setting that it had set, obviously would not match. For for the first few weeks I did not use overloads by bypassing them, but now I want to set them properly. The question is what is "properly". My thinking is that in this context, it means that the compressor can reliably restart at the restarting pressure (100 PSI or so), but at the same time, overloads should pop in a second or so if the motor is stalled. I can reproduce a stalled motor very easily, by stopping the compressor when there is pressure in the tank, and restarting within a minute, before unloaders bleed enough air. (I hope that it is not an indication that something is wrong with unloaders, a separate topic) I already set the overloads, apparently high enough so that they do not pop when the motor is running regularly. So, therefore, to me the procedure now would be to turn them down, to the point when they reliably pop on a stalled motor, but when compressor still starts well. Am I missing something and is that too unscientific? -- Normally I just set the overloads to the full load amps of the motor. They should be designed to allow over current for starting but pop before the motor gets hot enough to damage it. RogerN I'm reminded of all the times I've bypassed heaters. They usually were replaced in a day or two, but production comes first! |
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