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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?

I'd like to get some soft jaws for the 3-jaw chuck on the Clausing 5914
lathe. This appears to be the chuck that came with the lathe. The jaws
are two-piece, and can be removed and installed the other way.

The chuck body is marked "BP71/6206", and is 8" in diameter.

Apparently these jaws are the "American standard tongue-and-groove"
type. The lengthwise groove is 0.31" wide, the crosswise tongue is
0.501 wide, and the centers of the screw holes are 1.75" apart.

There seem to be a lot of people making chuck jaws, none of whichg I
know anything about.

What sources/makes are good, are bad, and why?

Thanks,

Joe Gwinn
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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?


"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
I'd like to get some soft jaws for the 3-jaw chuck on the Clausing 5914
lathe. This appears to be the chuck that came with the lathe. The jaws
are two-piece, and can be removed and installed the other way.

The chuck body is marked "BP71/6206", and is 8" in diameter.

Apparently these jaws are the "American standard tongue-and-groove"
type. The lengthwise groove is 0.31" wide, the crosswise tongue is
0.501 wide, and the centers of the screw holes are 1.75" apart.

There seem to be a lot of people making chuck jaws, none of whichg I
know anything about.

What sources/makes are good, are bad, and why?

Thanks,

Joe Gwinn



They're easy to make if you have a mill, Joe. I've never purchased soft
jaws in my life! The best choice is mild steel, so the jaw can be rebuilt
by adding new metal after they're served a long and useful life. I have
also used both 7075-T6 and 6061-T6 aluminum.

Harold

Harold


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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?

On Fri, 13 Feb 2009 15:05:21 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

I'd like to get some soft jaws for the 3-jaw chuck on the Clausing 5914
lathe. This appears to be the chuck that came with the lathe. The jaws
are two-piece, and can be removed and installed the other way.

The chuck body is marked "BP71/6206", and is 8" in diameter.

Apparently these jaws are the "American standard tongue-and-groove"
type. The lengthwise groove is 0.31" wide, the crosswise tongue is
0.501 wide, and the centers of the screw holes are 1.75" apart.

There seem to be a lot of people making chuck jaws, none of whichg I
know anything about.

What sources/makes are good, are bad, and why?


Most folks make them to suit out of mild steel or aluminum.

--
Ned Simmons
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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

They're easy to make if you have a mill, Joe. I've never purchased soft
jaws in my life! The best choice is mild steel, so the jaw can be rebuilt
by adding new metal after they're served a long and useful life.


I'm assuming you mean welding them up. I got to mention that to our engineers. I have a
feeling we just make new ones.

Wes
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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?

In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
I'd like to get some soft jaws for the 3-jaw chuck on the Clausing 5914
lathe. This appears to be the chuck that came with the lathe. The jaws
are two-piece, and can be removed and installed the other way.

The chuck body is marked "BP71/6206", and is 8" in diameter.

Apparently these jaws are the "American standard tongue-and-groove"
type. The lengthwise groove is 0.31" wide, the crosswise tongue is
0.501 wide, and the centers of the screw holes are 1.75" apart.

There seem to be a lot of people making chuck jaws, none of whichg I
know anything about.

What sources/makes are good, are bad, and why?

Thanks,

Joe Gwinn



They're easy to make if you have a mill, Joe. I've never purchased soft
jaws in my life! The best choice is mild steel, so the jaw can be rebuilt
by adding new metal after they're served a long and useful life. I have
also used both 7075-T6 and 6061-T6 aluminum.


I see that they would be easy to make, but first I want to know the
price if purchased, to be sure making them myself is worth the trouble.

Joe Gwinn


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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?


"Wes" wrote in message
...
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

They're easy to make if you have a mill, Joe. I've never purchased soft
jaws in my life! The best choice is mild steel, so the jaw can be rebuilt
by adding new metal after they're served a long and useful life.


I'm assuming you mean welding them up. I got to mention that to our
engineers. I have a
feeling we just make new ones.


And you probably have a program for the jaws stored.

JC


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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?

Joseph Gwinn wrote:
I'd like to get some soft jaws for the 3-jaw chuck on the Clausing 5914
lathe. This appears to be the chuck that came with the lathe. The jaws
are two-piece, and can be removed and installed the other way.

The chuck body is marked "BP71/6206", and is 8" in diameter.

Apparently these jaws are the "American standard tongue-and-groove"
type. The lengthwise groove is 0.31" wide, the crosswise tongue is
0.501 wide, and the centers of the screw holes are 1.75" apart.

There seem to be a lot of people making chuck jaws, none of whichg I
know anything about.

What sources/makes are good, are bad, and why?

Thanks,

Joe Gwinn

I just made a set out of 6061 Al at school on Thur. Havent
used them yet but need them to hold some threads without
"buggering" them up. Havent figured out how to hold the
jaws in compression while threading all the way through
the soft jaws yet.
...lew...
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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?


"Wes" wrote in message
...
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

They're easy to make if you have a mill, Joe. I've never purchased soft
jaws in my life! The best choice is mild steel, so the jaw can be rebuilt
by adding new metal after they're served a long and useful life.


I'm assuming you mean welding them up. I got to mention that to our
engineers. I have a
feeling we just make new ones.

Wes


Yes, by welding, Wes. I've done that on many occasions. The only concern is
getting them similar in weight and orientation so they remain balanced.
I'm still using one set of jaws that started life in my shop in 1967!

Harold


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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?


"Lew Hartswick" wrote in message
m...
Joseph Gwinn wrote:
I'd like to get some soft jaws for the 3-jaw chuck on the Clausing 5914
lathe. This appears to be the chuck that came with the lathe. The jaws
are two-piece, and can be removed and installed the other way.

The chuck body is marked "BP71/6206", and is 8" in diameter. Apparently
these jaws are the "American standard tongue-and-groove" type. The
lengthwise groove is 0.31" wide, the crosswise tongue is 0.501 wide, and
the centers of the screw holes are 1.75" apart.

There seem to be a lot of people making chuck jaws, none of whichg I know
anything about.

What sources/makes are good, are bad, and why?

Thanks,

Joe Gwinn

I just made a set out of 6061 Al at school on Thur. Havent
used them yet but need them to hold some threads without
"buggering" them up. Havent figured out how to hold the
jaws in compression while threading all the way through
the soft jaws yet.
...lew...


In such a case, I like the jaws to project inward, beyond the surface of the
master jaw. Grip your spider (or piece of stock) on the master jaw,
allowing full access to the soft jaw. Works fine, Lew.

The isn't usually need to grip by the thread itself. You won't harm the
threads if you grip on the major diameter. Only problem with that is if
the thread is drunken, you may not achieve the alignment you hope for.
That's the beauty of soft jaws. If you machine them to conform to the
target diameter, they grip without damage.

Harold


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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?

On 2009-02-13, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
I'd like to get some soft jaws for the 3-jaw chuck on the Clausing 5914
lathe. This appears to be the chuck that came with the lathe. The jaws
are two-piece, and can be removed and installed the other way.

The chuck body is marked "BP71/6206", and is 8" in diameter.


No way for me to tell what fits that lathe. I'm using a Bison
6-1/4" chuck with two-piece jaws.

Apparently these jaws are the "American standard tongue-and-groove"
type. The lengthwise groove is 0.31" wide, the crosswise tongue is
0.501 wide, and the centers of the screw holes are 1.75" apart.

There seem to be a lot of people making chuck jaws, none of whichg I
know anything about.


[ ... ]

They're easy to make if you have a mill, Joe. I've never purchased soft
jaws in my life! The best choice is mild steel, so the jaw can be rebuilt
by adding new metal after they're served a long and useful life. I have
also used both 7075-T6 and 6061-T6 aluminum.


I see that they would be easy to make, but first I want to know the
price if purchased, to be sure making them myself is worth the trouble.


IIRC, the price for a set of soft jaws for my Bison was about
$60.00. I would say that it is worth while making your own. :-)

You might dig through the MSC catalog to see what they charge
for sets to fit your measurements.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
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(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---


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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?

....
Joe Gwinn

I just made a set out of 6061 Al at school on Thur. Havent
used them yet but need them to hold some threads without
"buggering" them up. Havent figured out how to hold the
jaws in compression while threading all the way through
the soft jaws yet.
...lew...


In such a case, I like the jaws to project inward, beyond the surface of the
master jaw. Grip your spider (or piece of stock) on the master jaw,
allowing full access to the soft jaw. Works fine, Lew.

....

I had a project where I had to make four inch high jaws and the part
had to fit down inside the chuck (NMTB tool holder). So I drilled and
tapped 1/4 20 holes in the top of the jaws. Then a plate to bolt on. I
liked this method so well that i made a special plate to fit all sizes
with spiral slots and now I always bore my jaws this way.

Karl

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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?

Karl Townsend wrote:
...
Joe Gwinn
I just made a set out of 6061 Al at school on Thur. Havent
used them yet but need them to hold some threads without
"buggering" them up. Havent figured out how to hold the
jaws in compression while threading all the way through
the soft jaws yet.
...lew...

In such a case, I like the jaws to project inward, beyond the surface of the
master jaw. Grip your spider (or piece of stock) on the master jaw,
allowing full access to the soft jaw. Works fine, Lew.

...

I had a project where I had to make four inch high jaws and the part
had to fit down inside the chuck (NMTB tool holder). So I drilled and
tapped 1/4 20 holes in the top of the jaws. Then a plate to bolt on. I
liked this method so well that i made a special plate to fit all sizes
with spiral slots and now I always bore my jaws this way.

Karl


Karl I don't see that in my head. Can you post a pix somewhere of
that?
I want to hold a long piece of all-thread and work the end / cut off
thread out and repeat so there is no place to put a support to clamp
on. I'm thinking three small pieces sort of between the corners of
the jaws.
Harold, I'm not sure exactly what your describing but "maybe" a
sacrificial piece that the the master jaws clamp on before the
soft ones touch that I can then drill through and tap then remove????
Yes??
Thanks.
...lew...
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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?

In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2009-02-13, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
I'd like to get some soft jaws for the 3-jaw chuck on the Clausing 5914
lathe. This appears to be the chuck that came with the lathe. The jaws
are two-piece, and can be removed and installed the other way.

The chuck body is marked "BP71/6206", and is 8" in diameter.


No way for me to tell what fits that lathe. I'm using a Bison
6-1/4" chuck with two-piece jaws.

Apparently these jaws are the "American standard tongue-and-groove"
type. The lengthwise groove is 0.31" wide, the crosswise tongue is
0.501 wide, and the centers of the screw holes are 1.75" apart.

There seem to be a lot of people making chuck jaws, none of which I
know anything about.


[ ... ]

They're easy to make if you have a mill, Joe. I've never purchased soft
jaws in my life! The best choice is mild steel, so the jaw can be rebuilt
by adding new metal after they're served a long and useful life. I
have
also used both 7075-T6 and 6061-T6 aluminum.


I see that they would be easy to make, but first I want to know the
price if purchased, to be sure making them myself is worth the trouble.


IIRC, the price for a set of soft jaws for my Bison was about
$60.00. I would say that it is worth while making your own. :-)


A datapoint.

And I do have a mill, which has been feeling neglected since the
Clausing 5914 lathe arrived and was so in need of doctoring to cure its
severe case of the chatters.


You might dig through the MSC catalog to see what they charge
for sets to fit your measurements.


That's what I'll do. The general lack of opinions on the matter tells
me that soft jaws are a commodity. It's not like they have to be made
by watchmakers and hand-polished by virgins. On the other hand, hard
jaws ....

Joe Gwinn
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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?

On Sat, 14 Feb 2009 07:16:27 -0700, Lew Hartswick
wrote:
snip
Havent
used them yet but need them to hold some threads without
"buggering" them up.

snip
--------
You may be working too hard here, depending on the thread size,
work piece length, TIR required, etc.

Easy way is to get 3 nuts to fit the threaded piece. Thread 1
nut, a washer and two more nuts on. Space the last two nuts so
they clamp at the front/back of the 3 jaw chuck, with the front
projecting very slightly in front of the jaws. Run the nut on
the other side of the washer down against this nut and torque to
suit to prevent the part from turning. If runout is excessive try
different nuts or shims between jaws and nuts. Not suitable for
production, but fine for a typical hobby shop one-off.

As a safety tip, if you are machining threaded bar like Allthread
and it extends through the headstock and out the back, be very
careful of "whip" that will likely develop. In this case you
will more than likely have to cumshaw up some sort of bar support
from a piece of pipe and some stands to restrain the part that is
sticking out if it is more than a few inches, depending on the
workpiece diameter. You may also find it helpful if this is thin
stock to make some sort of bushing to restrain the stock inside
the spindle and keep it centered.

Good luck and let the group know how you make out.


Unka' George [George McDuffee]
-------------------------------------------
He that will not apply new remedies,
must expect new evils:
for Time is the greatest innovator: and
if Time, of course, alter things to the worse,
and wisdom and counsel shall not alter them to the better,
what shall be the end?

Francis Bacon (1561-1626), English philosopher, essayist, statesman.
Essays, "Of Innovations" (1597-1625).
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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?

On 2009-02-14, Lew Hartswick wrote:

[ ... ]

I want to hold a long piece of all-thread and work the end / cut off
thread out and repeat so there is no place to put a support to clamp
on. I'm thinking three small pieces sort of between the corners of
the jaws.


I just use the appropriate size of 5C collet for that kind of
work.

But if you don't have the collets, take a cylinder of brass or
mild steel (hot rolled, not cold to avoid the stresses in the material),
drill and bore to be a sliding fit on the allthread, then use the mill
and a slitting saw to cut a radial slit from the OD to the ID. Put this
in the chuck (with the slit facing away from the #1 jaw, if you want
repeatability) and when you clamp the jaws on the cylinder, it will
close on the allthread and grip it strongly.

If you really insist on threads, thread the cylinder before
slitting instead of boring to fit.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
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(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---


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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?

On 14 Feb 2009 20:36:48 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:
snip
But if you don't have the collets, take a cylinder of brass or
mild steel (hot rolled, not cold to avoid the stresses in the material),
drill and bore to be a sliding fit on the allthread, then use the mill
and a slitting saw to cut a radial slit from the OD to the ID. Put this
in the chuck (with the slit facing away from the #1 jaw, if you want
repeatability) and when you clamp the jaws on the cylinder, it will
close on the allthread and grip it strongly.

snip
If the TIR required is not too close or you can spend some time
shimming, it is possible to use two nuts that fit the Allthread.
Hacksaw a slot though through the middle of a flat on each nut.
File the burrs out of the slot with a triangle file [simply file
straight down below the root of the thread], and as required
clean out with a tap to a easy running fit on the Allthread. To
use, thread on the rod so that one nut is to the front of the
chuck jaws and one nut to the back, and position the nuts so the
slots are between two jaws. When you tighten the chuck the nuts
will squeeze down and grip the rod. As before watch out for whip
of any material extending out the back of the headstock.


Unka' George [George McDuffee]
-------------------------------------------
He that will not apply new remedies,
must expect new evils:
for Time is the greatest innovator: and
if Time, of course, alter things to the worse,
and wisdom and counsel shall not alter them to the better,
what shall be the end?

Francis Bacon (1561-1626), English philosopher, essayist, statesman.
Essays, "Of Innovations" (1597-1625).
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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?


"Lew Hartswick" wrote in message
m...
Karl Townsend wrote:
...
Joe Gwinn
I just made a set out of 6061 Al at school on Thur. Havent
used them yet but need them to hold some threads without
"buggering" them up. Havent figured out how to hold the
jaws in compression while threading all the way through
the soft jaws yet.
...lew...
In such a case, I like the jaws to project inward, beyond the surface of
the master jaw. Grip your spider (or piece of stock) on the master
jaw, allowing full access to the soft jaw. Works fine, Lew.

...

I had a project where I had to make four inch high jaws and the part
had to fit down inside the chuck (NMTB tool holder). So I drilled and
tapped 1/4 20 holes in the top of the jaws. Then a plate to bolt on. I
liked this method so well that i made a special plate to fit all sizes
with spiral slots and now I always bore my jaws this way.

Karl


Karl I don't see that in my head. Can you post a pix somewhere of
that?
I want to hold a long piece of all-thread and work the end / cut off
thread out and repeat so there is no place to put a support to clamp
on. I'm thinking three small pieces sort of between the corners of
the jaws.
Harold, I'm not sure exactly what your describing but "maybe" a
sacrificial piece that the the master jaws clamp on before the
soft ones touch that I can then drill through and tap then remove????
Yes??
Thanks.
...lew...


Yeah, that's it Lew. I don't recommend drilling and tapping, however.
You'll have less than good fortune accomplishing your mission because of the
interrupted cut. If it's possible, bore the hole for a round and straight
result. The exception might be if you can get the jaws all but touching.

Do consider holding the material by the major diameter instead of threading
the jaws, too. Unless your application is critical of concentricity, p.d.
with the work you'll do, it's a lot of trouble to go to for little, if any,
gain. You'll be duly pleased with gripping the major under all but the
most trying of circumstances.

Long ago I did a series on soft jaws and how to apply them. In one of the
articles I talk about a spider, which is used to bore soft jaws. It
avoids the hunt for a specific size of material for each time you need to
machine the jaws, with the added benefit of being able to true the jaws by
removing only a few thou, even when the profile may not be perfect for the
application. It need not be, not as long as you can achieve a respectable
surface area.

Regards the spider, if you're interested, they're real easy to make. Using
a fairly large nut (1" or so) , drill and tap at 120 degree intervals for a
socket head cap screw. Mine are 5/16-18, for use in an 8" three jaw.
Locate the three tapped holes near the edge of the nut, so you can get the
spider as far back in the jaws as is possible for machining the jaws. You
can even locate on the master jaw, allowing for through boring.

If you're interested in reviewing the posts, I'll provide links. Lots of
good reading, with pics to help in the descriptions.

Harold


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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?

In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

"Lew Hartswick" wrote in message
m...
Karl Townsend wrote:
...
Joe Gwinn
I just made a set out of 6061 Al at school on Thur. Havent
used them yet but need them to hold some threads without
"buggering" them up. Havent figured out how to hold the
jaws in compression while threading all the way through
the soft jaws yet.
...lew...
In such a case, I like the jaws to project inward, beyond the surface of
the master jaw. Grip your spider (or piece of stock) on the master
jaw, allowing full access to the soft jaw. Works fine, Lew.
...

I had a project where I had to make four inch high jaws and the part
had to fit down inside the chuck (NMTB tool holder). So I drilled and
tapped 1/4 20 holes in the top of the jaws. Then a plate to bolt on. I
liked this method so well that i made a special plate to fit all sizes
with spiral slots and now I always bore my jaws this way.

Karl


Karl I don't see that in my head. Can you post a pix somewhere of
that?
I want to hold a long piece of all-thread and work the end / cut off
thread out and repeat so there is no place to put a support to clamp
on. I'm thinking three small pieces sort of between the corners of
the jaws.
Harold, I'm not sure exactly what your describing but "maybe" a
sacrificial piece that the the master jaws clamp on before the
soft ones touch that I can then drill through and tap then remove????
Yes??
Thanks.
...lew...


Yeah, that's it Lew. I don't recommend drilling and tapping, however.
You'll have less than good fortune accomplishing your mission because of the
interrupted cut. If it's possible, bore the hole for a round and straight
result. The exception might be if you can get the jaws all but touching.

Do consider holding the material by the major diameter instead of threading
the jaws, too. Unless your application is critical of concentricity, p.d.
with the work you'll do, it's a lot of trouble to go to for little, if any,
gain. You'll be duly pleased with gripping the major under all but the
most trying of circumstances.

Long ago I did a series on soft jaws and how to apply them. In one of the
articles I talk about a spider, which is used to bore soft jaws. It
avoids the hunt for a specific size of material for each time you need to
machine the jaws, with the added benefit of being able to true the jaws by
removing only a few thou, even when the profile may not be perfect for the
application. It need not be, not as long as you can achieve a respectable
surface area.

Regards the spider, if you're interested, they're real easy to make. Using
a fairly large nut (1" or so) , drill and tap at 120 degree intervals for a
socket head cap screw. Mine are 5/16-18, for use in an 8" three jaw.
Locate the three tapped holes near the edge of the nut, so you can get the
spider as far back in the jaws as is possible for machining the jaws. You
can even locate on the master jaw, allowing for through boring.

If you're interested in reviewing the posts, I'll provide links. Lots of
good reading, with pics to help in the descriptions.


I'd be interested too. Perhaps it would be good to collect the posts
into a tract that resides in the dropbox.

Joe Gwinn
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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?

On 2009-02-15, Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

[ ... ]

Regards the spider, if you're interested, they're real easy to make. Using
a fairly large nut (1" or so) , drill and tap at 120 degree intervals for a
socket head cap screw. Mine are 5/16-18, for use in an 8" three jaw.
Locate the three tapped holes near the edge of the nut, so you can get the
spider as far back in the jaws as is possible for machining the jaws. You
can even locate on the master jaw, allowing for through boring.


Aha! *That* is a nice idea. Thanks!

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
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(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?


"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

snip-
If you're interested in reviewing the posts, I'll provide links. Lots
of
good reading, with pics to help in the descriptions.


I'd be interested too. Perhaps it would be good to collect the posts
into a tract that resides in the dropbox.

Joe Gwinn


Here's the link. http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/...pic.php?t=4266

Unless you are a registered reader of the Chaski board, pictures can't be
viewed. Otherwise, you should be able to read all of the posts on the
rather long thread.

Because the posts were done long ago, when the board was running different
software than is currently used, some of the pictures are no longer there.
Those that are important are, however.

Hope you find the posts useful.

Harold




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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?

In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

snip-
If you're interested in reviewing the posts, I'll provide links. Lots
of
good reading, with pics to help in the descriptions.


I'd be interested too. Perhaps it would be good to collect the posts
into a tract that resides in the dropbox.

Joe Gwinn


Here's the link. http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/...pic.php?t=4266

Unless you are a registered reader of the Chaski board, pictures can't be
viewed. Otherwise, you should be able to read all of the posts on the
rather long thread.

Because the posts were done long ago, when the board was running different
software than is currently used, some of the pictures are no longer there.
Those that are important are, however.

Hope you find the posts useful.


I am a registered (albeit infrequent) reader. The photos really help.

It turns out that MSC has steel jaws for about $21 each (76553791) and
aluminum for $28 each (08637274). These have integral 0.500" keys
machined right in, so location should be more precise.

I also need to see which sprocket on the chuck gives the best
repeatability.

Joe Gwinn
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Default Soft jaws for Clausing 5914 lathe?

In article ,
Joseph Gwinn wrote:

In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
I'd like to get some soft jaws for the 3-jaw chuck on the Clausing 5914
lathe. This appears to be the chuck that came with the lathe. The jaws
are two-piece, and can be removed and installed the other way.

The chuck body is marked "BP71/6206", and is 8" in diameter.

Apparently these jaws are the "American standard tongue-and-groove"
type. The lengthwise groove is 0.31" wide, the crosswise tongue is
0.501 wide, and the centers of the screw holes are 1.75" apart.

There seem to be a lot of people making chuck jaws, none of whichg I
know anything about.

What sources/makes are good, are bad, and why?

Thanks,

Joe Gwinn



They're easy to make if you have a mill, Joe. I've never purchased soft
jaws in my life! The best choice is mild steel, so the jaw can be rebuilt
by adding new metal after they're served a long and useful life. I have
also used both 7075-T6 and 6061-T6 aluminum.


I see that they would be easy to make, but first I want to know the
price if purchased, to be sure making them myself is worth the trouble.


I ended up buying a set (MSC # 01933480), and they fit tightly and work
very well.

I did number the soft jaws 1..2..3 so I'll put them back on the chuck
always the same way.

I recall you warming about the danger of getting clipped by the spinning
big jaws. This is a real danger. I didn't get clipped, but there was a
close call. That would have HURT. I may make a guard cover.

I would guess that pie jaws are safer.

Joe Gwinn
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