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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steve Lusardi -- lathe update
In article ,
Ignoramus7855 wrote: Steve, your test bar should be picked up tomorrow. Thank you. I spent a long time with my lathe. Here's what I found. 1. The lathe spindle itself does not seem to be bent (when turned and watched with a dial indicator). 2. The three jaw chuck, when mounted on the Lo mount, simply does not point straight. This is clear if I mount it carefully and turn it while looking at a dial indicator tracking its outside circumference. 3. There is a considerable amount of crud in the inside of the three jaw chuck, where it mates to the spindle. Such as, bits of swarf imbedded in the soft inside of the chuck. As well as irregular structure from impact of said swarf. Obviously, someone tried to mount a very dirty chuck once, to its detriment. I took a drill bit and carefully lifted that crud off using that drill bit as a scraper. I also very thouroughly cleaned the L0 spindle surface, which now looks great and checks out well dith dial indicator (0.001" or so) I had this problem with the Clausing 5914, which uses a L00 spindle. Is your spindle L0 or is it L00? They look the same, so one must measure to really tell. Before filing and scraping anything, clean the mating surfaces of the taper off with acetone, right down to the metal. Remove the key (it's held by a screw) to allow full access to clean all nooks and corners. This will remove the spooge and glued-on chips. With a fine flat file, very carefully and gently remove any ding dimple peaks. Reassemble. Use the acetone on the female taper of the chuck as well. Smear male taper with high-spot blue, install chuck on spindle, remove, and inspect under a bright light. Very gently file the ding peaks off with a 6" half-round file slid gently along the female taper in the chuck. Be very careful, as the material is cast iron and files all too easily. It is not necessary to make the dings go away. Al that's necessary is to remove the peaks, so the remaining surfaces can mate properly. So the taper will always look a bit battered, but there is no harm in it. I also found it necessary to completely disassemble and clean the 3-jaw chuck, which was full of spooge and packed glued chips. No filing was needed, only careful cleaning with pointed metal tools and a stainless-steel brush and solvent to get stuff out of corners and the jaw tracks. On reassembly, I used Mobil-1 synthetic grease, about $5 from an auto parts store. I also did the 4-jaw chuck, although it turned out not to be really needed. The female taper was quite dirty, from deposits of airborne shop grit over the years. Likewise the dog drive plate. It's probably a good idea to keep rarely used chucks and plates in plastic bags or the like, to keep them reasonably clean. Joe Gwinn |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steve Lusardi -- lathe update
On 2009-01-09, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article , Ignoramus7855 wrote: Steve, your test bar should be picked up tomorrow. Thank you. I spent a long time with my lathe. Here's what I found. 1. The lathe spindle itself does not seem to be bent (when turned and watched with a dial indicator). 2. The three jaw chuck, when mounted on the Lo mount, simply does not point straight. This is clear if I mount it carefully and turn it while looking at a dial indicator tracking its outside circumference. 3. There is a considerable amount of crud in the inside of the three jaw chuck, where it mates to the spindle. Such as, bits of swarf imbedded in the soft inside of the chuck. As well as irregular structure from impact of said swarf. Obviously, someone tried to mount a very dirty chuck once, to its detriment. I took a drill bit and carefully lifted that crud off using that drill bit as a scraper. I also very thouroughly cleaned the L0 spindle surface, which now looks great and checks out well dith dial indicator (0.001" or so) I had this problem with the Clausing 5914, which uses a L00 spindle. Is your spindle L0 or is it L00? They look the same, so one must measure to really tell. I called Clausing a week ago, they said L0 for my machine. Before filing and scraping anything, clean the mating surfaces of the taper off with acetone, right down to the metal. Remove the key (it's held by a screw) to allow full access to clean all nooks and corners. This will remove the spooge and glued-on chips. With a fine flat file, very carefully and gently remove any ding dimple peaks. Reassemble. The spindle part is actually perfectly, spotlessly clean now. (after much cleaning) Use the acetone on the female taper of the chuck as well. Smear male taper with high-spot blue, install chuck on spindle, remove, and inspect under a bright light. Very gently file the ding peaks off with a 6" half-round file slid gently along the female taper in the chuck. Be very careful, as the material is cast iron and files all too easily. OK, will get that blue. It is not necessary to make the dings go away. Al that's necessary is to remove the peaks, so the remaining surfaces can mate properly. So the taper will always look a bit battered, but there is no harm in it. Yep. I also found it necessary to completely disassemble and clean the 3-jaw chuck, which was full of spooge and packed glued chips. No filing was needed, only careful cleaning with pointed metal tools and a stainless-steel brush and solvent to get stuff out of corners and the jaw tracks. On reassembly, I used Mobil-1 synthetic grease, about $5 from an auto parts store. I did that when I got the lathe, I disassembled both chucks and cleaned them up. I used CorrosionX for lubrication. I also did the 4-jaw chuck, although it turned out not to be really needed. The female taper was quite dirty, from deposits of airborne shop grit over the years. Likewise the dog drive plate. It's probably a good idea to keep rarely used chucks and plates in plastic bags or the like, to keep them reasonably clean. I agree, yes. Thanks Joe. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steve Lusardi -- lathe update
In article ,
Ignoramus17663 wrote: On 2009-01-09, Joseph Gwinn wrote: In article , Ignoramus7855 wrote: Steve, your test bar should be picked up tomorrow. Thank you. I spent a long time with my lathe. Here's what I found. 1. The lathe spindle itself does not seem to be bent (when turned and watched with a dial indicator). 2. The three jaw chuck, when mounted on the Lo mount, simply does not point straight. This is clear if I mount it carefully and turn it while looking at a dial indicator tracking its outside circumference. 3. There is a considerable amount of crud in the inside of the three jaw chuck, where it mates to the spindle. Such as, bits of swarf imbedded in the soft inside of the chuck. As well as irregular structure from impact of said swarf. Obviously, someone tried to mount a very dirty chuck once, to its detriment. I took a drill bit and carefully lifted that crud off using that drill bit as a scraper. I also very thouroughly cleaned the L0 spindle surface, which now looks great and checks out well dith dial indicator (0.001" or so) I had this problem with the Clausing 5914, which uses a L00 spindle. Is your spindle L0 or is it L00? They look the same, so one must measure to really tell. I called Clausing a week ago, they said L0 for my machine. You can cross check with a ruler as well. Before filing and scraping anything, clean the mating surfaces of the taper off with acetone, right down to the metal. Remove the key (it's held by a screw) to allow full access to clean all nooks and corners. This will remove the spooge and glued-on chips. With a fine flat file, very carefully and gently remove any ding dimple peaks. Reassemble. The spindle part is actually perfectly, spotlessly clean now. (after much cleaning) Is it a flawless cone, or are there dimples? Mine has dimples, from people installing the chuck without wiping the chips off first. Joe Gwinn Use the acetone on the female taper of the chuck as well. Smear male taper with high-spot blue, install chuck on spindle, remove, and inspect under a bright light. Very gently file the ding peaks off with a 6" half-round file slid gently along the female taper in the chuck. Be very careful, as the material is cast iron and files all too easily. OK, will get that blue. It is not necessary to make the dings go away. Al that's necessary is to remove the peaks, so the remaining surfaces can mate properly. So the taper will always look a bit battered, but there is no harm in it. Yep. I also found it necessary to completely disassemble and clean the 3-jaw chuck, which was full of spooge and packed glued chips. No filing was needed, only careful cleaning with pointed metal tools and a stainless-steel brush and solvent to get stuff out of corners and the jaw tracks. On reassembly, I used Mobil-1 synthetic grease, about $5 from an auto parts store. I did that when I got the lathe, I disassembled both chucks and cleaned them up. I used CorrosionX for lubrication. I also did the 4-jaw chuck, although it turned out not to be really needed. The female taper was quite dirty, from deposits of airborne shop grit over the years. Likewise the dog drive plate. It's probably a good idea to keep rarely used chucks and plates in plastic bags or the like, to keep them reasonably clean. I agree, yes. Thanks Joe. |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steve Lusardi -- lathe update
On 2009-01-10, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article , Is it a flawless cone, or are there dimples? Mine has dimples, from people installing the chuck without wiping the chips off first. It is flawless. I believe that it is hardened, and the inside of the chuck is not hardened, so all dimples go on the chuck. Which is great. I am grateful for this. The more I think about it, the more I believe that this lathe is a solid performer to serve me well. I have started to perform some final cleanup of it. Drained all oil from the headstock, then added detergent car oil in there, lifted off all crud, from the walls and bottom, drained that, wiped the inside free of that oil and clear, and put in new Mobil DTE 24. Next, time to learn threading, to get coolant in the coolant tank, learn to center tailstock etc. I was reluctant to invest much time into this lathe, before ascertaining that it could actually be usable. To answer Wes's question, yes the ways have visible wear, bt the effect on the cuts is moderate. i Joe Gwinn Use the acetone on the female taper of the chuck as well. Smear male taper with high-spot blue, install chuck on spindle, remove, and inspect under a bright light. Very gently file the ding peaks off with a 6" half-round file slid gently along the female taper in the chuck. Be very careful, as the material is cast iron and files all too easily. OK, will get that blue. It is not necessary to make the dings go away. Al that's necessary is to remove the peaks, so the remaining surfaces can mate properly. So the taper will always look a bit battered, but there is no harm in it. Yep. I also found it necessary to completely disassemble and clean the 3-jaw chuck, which was full of spooge and packed glued chips. No filing was needed, only careful cleaning with pointed metal tools and a stainless-steel brush and solvent to get stuff out of corners and the jaw tracks. On reassembly, I used Mobil-1 synthetic grease, about $5 from an auto parts store. I did that when I got the lathe, I disassembled both chucks and cleaned them up. I used CorrosionX for lubrication. I also did the 4-jaw chuck, although it turned out not to be really needed. The female taper was quite dirty, from deposits of airborne shop grit over the years. Likewise the dog drive plate. It's probably a good idea to keep rarely used chucks and plates in plastic bags or the like, to keep them reasonably clean. I agree, yes. Thanks Joe. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steve Lusardi -- lathe update
On Fri, 09 Jan 2009 19:03:03 -0600, Ignoramus17663
wrote: On 2009-01-10, Joseph Gwinn wrote: In article , Is it a flawless cone, or are there dimples? Mine has dimples, from people installing the chuck without wiping the chips off first. It is flawless. I believe that it is hardened, and the inside of the chuck is not hardened, so all dimples go on the chuck. Which is great. I am grateful for this. The more I think about it, the more I believe that this lathe is a solid performer to serve me well. Is that the round top Colchester 13x36? I told you you would like it. I loved mine Gunner "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steve Lusardi -- lathe update
On 2009-01-10, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 09 Jan 2009 19:03:03 -0600, Ignoramus17663 wrote: On 2009-01-10, Joseph Gwinn wrote: In article , Is it a flawless cone, or are there dimples? Mine has dimples, from people installing the chuck without wiping the chips off first. It is flawless. I believe that it is hardened, and the inside of the chuck is not hardened, so all dimples go on the chuck. Which is great. I am grateful for this. The more I think about it, the more I believe that this lathe is a solid performer to serve me well. Is that the round top Colchester 13x36? I told you you would like it. I loved mine I totally love it. I hope that it will love me back. I am going to try to come up with some lathe projects. Let's see... i "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steve Lusardi -- lathe update
On Fri, 09 Jan 2009 23:07:45 -0600, Ignoramus17663
wrote: On 2009-01-10, Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 09 Jan 2009 19:03:03 -0600, Ignoramus17663 wrote: On 2009-01-10, Joseph Gwinn wrote: In article , Is it a flawless cone, or are there dimples? Mine has dimples, from people installing the chuck without wiping the chips off first. It is flawless. I believe that it is hardened, and the inside of the chuck is not hardened, so all dimples go on the chuck. Which is great. I am grateful for this. The more I think about it, the more I believe that this lathe is a solid performer to serve me well. Is that the round top Colchester 13x36? I told you you would like it. I loved mine I totally love it. I hope that it will love me back. I am going to try to come up with some lathe projects. Let's see... Did you get the taper attachment? Gunner i "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steve Lusardi -- lathe update
On Fri, 09 Jan 2009 23:07:45 -0600, Ignoramus17663
wrote: On 2009-01-10, Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 09 Jan 2009 19:03:03 -0600, Ignoramus17663 wrote: On 2009-01-10, Joseph Gwinn wrote: In article , Is it a flawless cone, or are there dimples? Mine has dimples, from people installing the chuck without wiping the chips off first. It is flawless. I believe that it is hardened, and the inside of the chuck is not hardened, so all dimples go on the chuck. Which is great. I am grateful for this. The more I think about it, the more I believe that this lathe is a solid performer to serve me well. Is that the round top Colchester 13x36? I told you you would like it. I loved mine I totally love it. I hope that it will love me back. I am going to try to come up with some lathe projects. Let's see... The first thing you do, is make up a handful of shear pins. Start out with 16P nails and simply turn them down to the proper diameter and length. IRRC its .375 long and .125 in diameter You WILL screw up and shear off those pins when you are first learning the lathe..generally by under estimating the length of time it takes to turn something so you turn your back on the machine for a few minutes. I may..may have an extra spindle nose adapter for IRRC...3MT or 4MT Gunner i "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steve Lusardi -- lathe update
On 2009-01-10, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 09 Jan 2009 23:07:45 -0600, Ignoramus17663 wrote: On 2009-01-10, Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 09 Jan 2009 19:03:03 -0600, Ignoramus17663 wrote: On 2009-01-10, Joseph Gwinn wrote: In article , Is it a flawless cone, or are there dimples? Mine has dimples, from people installing the chuck without wiping the chips off first. It is flawless. I believe that it is hardened, and the inside of the chuck is not hardened, so all dimples go on the chuck. Which is great. I am grateful for this. The more I think about it, the more I believe that this lathe is a solid performer to serve me well. Is that the round top Colchester 13x36? I told you you would like it. I loved mine I totally love it. I hope that it will love me back. I am going to try to come up with some lathe projects. Let's see... Did you get the taper attachment? No, I wish I did, but I did not. i i "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steve Lusardi -- lathe update
On Sat, 10 Jan 2009 02:09:31 -0600, Ignoramus17663
wrote: On 2009-01-10, Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 09 Jan 2009 23:07:45 -0600, Ignoramus17663 wrote: On 2009-01-10, Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 09 Jan 2009 19:03:03 -0600, Ignoramus17663 wrote: On 2009-01-10, Joseph Gwinn wrote: In article , Is it a flawless cone, or are there dimples? Mine has dimples, from people installing the chuck without wiping the chips off first. It is flawless. I believe that it is hardened, and the inside of the chuck is not hardened, so all dimples go on the chuck. Which is great. I am grateful for this. The more I think about it, the more I believe that this lathe is a solid performer to serve me well. Is that the round top Colchester 13x36? I told you you would like it. I loved mine I totally love it. I hope that it will love me back. I am going to try to come up with some lathe projects. Let's see... Did you get the taper attachment? No, I wish I did, but I did not. i Bummer..I gave mine away today. Really. I wish Id known you needed one. Gunner i "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steve Lusardi -- lathe update
Gunner,
If you can find one, I have an MT3 test bar he can use. Steve "Gunner Asch" wrote in message ... On Fri, 09 Jan 2009 23:07:45 -0600, Ignoramus17663 wrote: On 2009-01-10, Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 09 Jan 2009 19:03:03 -0600, Ignoramus17663 wrote: On 2009-01-10, Joseph Gwinn wrote: In article , Is it a flawless cone, or are there dimples? Mine has dimples, from people installing the chuck without wiping the chips off first. It is flawless. I believe that it is hardened, and the inside of the chuck is not hardened, so all dimples go on the chuck. Which is great. I am grateful for this. The more I think about it, the more I believe that this lathe is a solid performer to serve me well. Is that the round top Colchester 13x36? I told you you would like it. I loved mine I totally love it. I hope that it will love me back. I am going to try to come up with some lathe projects. Let's see... The first thing you do, is make up a handful of shear pins. Start out with 16P nails and simply turn them down to the proper diameter and length. IRRC its .375 long and .125 in diameter You WILL screw up and shear off those pins when you are first learning the lathe..generally by under estimating the length of time it takes to turn something so you turn your back on the machine for a few minutes. I may..may have an extra spindle nose adapter for IRRC...3MT or 4MT Gunner i "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steve Lusardi -- lathe update
Ignoramus17663 wrote:
Is that the round top Colchester 13x36? I told you you would like it. I loved mine I totally love it. I hope that it will love me back. Don't wear long sleeves carelessly around it or it will give you the hug of your life. Wes |
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