In article ,
Ignoramus17663 wrote:

On 2009-01-09, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus7855 wrote:

Steve, your test bar should be picked up tomorrow. Thank you.

I spent a long time with my lathe. Here's what I found.

1. The lathe spindle itself does not seem to be bent (when turned and
watched with a dial indicator).

2. The three jaw chuck, when mounted on the Lo mount, simply does not
point straight. This is clear if I mount it carefully and turn it
while looking at a dial indicator tracking its outside circumference.

3. There is a considerable amount of crud in the inside of the three
jaw chuck, where it mates to the spindle. Such as, bits of swarf
imbedded in the soft inside of the chuck. As well as irregular
structure from impact of said swarf. Obviously, someone tried to mount
a very dirty chuck once, to its detriment. I took a drill bit and
carefully lifted that crud off using that drill bit as a scraper. I
also very thouroughly cleaned the L0 spindle surface, which now looks
great and checks out well dith dial indicator (0.001" or so)

I had this problem with the Clausing 5914, which uses a L00 spindle.

Is your spindle L0 or is it L00? They look the same, so one must
measure to really tell.

I called Clausing a week ago, they said L0 for my machine.

You can cross check with a ruler as well.


Before filing and scraping anything, clean the mating surfaces of the
taper off with acetone, right down to the metal. Remove the key (it's
held by a screw) to allow full access to clean all nooks and corners.
This will remove the spooge and glued-on chips. With a fine flat file,
very carefully and gently remove any ding dimple peaks. Reassemble.

The spindle part is actually perfectly, spotlessly clean now. (after
much cleaning)

Is it a flawless cone, or are there dimples?

Mine has dimples, from people installing the chuck without wiping the
chips off first.

Joe Gwinn


Use the acetone on the female taper of the chuck as well.

Smear male taper with high-spot blue, install chuck on spindle, remove,
and inspect under a bright light. Very gently file the ding peaks off
with a 6" half-round file slid gently along the female taper in the
chuck. Be very careful, as the material is cast iron and files all too
easily.

OK, will get that blue.

It is not necessary to make the dings go away. Al that's necessary is
to remove the peaks, so the remaining surfaces can mate properly. So
the taper will always look a bit battered, but there is no harm in it.

Yep.


I also found it necessary to completely disassemble and clean the 3-jaw
chuck, which was full of spooge and packed glued chips. No filing was
needed, only careful cleaning with pointed metal tools and a
stainless-steel brush and solvent to get stuff out of corners and the
jaw tracks. On reassembly, I used Mobil-1 synthetic grease, about $5
from an auto parts store.

I did that when I got the lathe, I disassembled both chucks and
cleaned them up. I used CorrosionX for lubrication.

I also did the 4-jaw chuck, although it turned out not to be really
needed. The female taper was quite dirty, from deposits of airborne
shop grit over the years. Likewise the dog drive plate. It's probably
a good idea to keep rarely used chucks and plates in plastic bags or the
like, to keep them reasonably clean.

I agree, yes. Thanks Joe.