The continuing saga of a miser looking for a "wonderlathe":

1) http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...330,50260&ap=1

I have a motor and lots of 1/4" tools of uncertain provenance. Would need a
chuck for the headstock and probably compound slide from this selection:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...330,50260&ap=1

I have heard good things about this. It would take care of small parts
(steel, 3/4" diameter). I am not sure how specialized and therefore
obtainable the parts are.


2) http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture10?NTITEM=B1979C

The apparent cost is over double of the Taig, but it comes with a motor, a
compound, 3-jaw chuck etc. which closes the dollar gap considerably. Lower
speeds, therefore almost three times the diameter can be handled, screw
cutting, auto feed etc.

The nearest mini is $200 more. Why, oh why, the short distance between
centres?

All in all, it seems that No.2 will do everything the No.1 will and much
more for a slightly greater sum. Does this make sense?

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Michael Koblic explained :
The continuing saga of a miser looking for a "wonderlathe":

1) http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...330,50260&ap=1

I have a motor and lots of 1/4" tools of uncertain provenance. Would need a
chuck for the headstock and probably compound slide from this selection:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...330,50260&ap=1

I have heard good things about this. It would take care of small parts
(steel, 3/4" diameter). I am not sure how specialized and therefore
obtainable the parts are.


2) http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture10?NTITEM=B1979C

The apparent cost is over double of the Taig, but it comes with a motor, a
compound, 3-jaw chuck etc. which closes the dollar gap considerably. Lower
speeds, therefore almost three times the diameter can be handled, screw
cutting, auto feed etc.

The nearest mini is $200 more. Why, oh why, the short distance between
centres?

All in all, it seems that No.2 will do everything the No.1 will and much more
for a slightly greater sum. Does this make sense?

#3? http://lathemaster.com/LATHEMASTER8x14Lathe.htm

Wayne D.

Wayne wrote:
#3? http://lathemaster.com/LATHEMASTER8x14Lathe.htm

At $1390 before it even crossess the border it is almost 2.5 times the price
of No.2. Sadly, not an option...

On 2008-12-17, Wayne wrote:
Michael Koblic explained :

[ ... ]

All in all, it seems that No.2 will do everything the No.1 will and much more
for a slightly greater sum. Does this make sense?

#3? http://lathemaster.com/LATHEMASTER8x14Lathe.htm

Much nicer -- for the metalworking. Not any better for the
woodworking. Really you need two different tools I think.

And the motor horsepower is much more reasonable, too.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2008-12-17, Michael Koblic wrote:
The continuing saga of a miser looking for a "wonderlathe":

1) http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...330,50260&ap=1

I have a motor and lots of 1/4" tools of uncertain provenance. Would need a
chuck for the headstock and probably compound slide from this selection:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...330,50260&ap=1

Get the metalworking version, and the accessories to add
woodworking capabilities. The price difference between the two compared
to the cost of the cross-slide alone says this -- *if* you want the
Taig.

I have heard good things about this. It would take care of small parts
(steel, 3/4" diameter).

Yes -- but it would not single-point threads (that is, cut with a
properly shaped tool bit to make threads). Otherwise, it is a nice
*small* lathe.

I am not sure how specialized and therefore
obtainable the parts are.

Most of the parts are rather specialized. The chucks are
interchangeable with Sherlines, FWIW. The 4-jaw chuck which is
available for the metalworking version is very good for the price.

I don't see the three-jaw chuck with the soft jaws which used to
be part of the setup.


2) http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture10?NTITEM=B1979C

The apparent cost is over double of the Taig, but it comes with a motor, a
compound, 3-jaw chuck etc. which closes the dollar gap considerably. Lower
speeds, therefore almost three times the diameter can be handled, screw
cutting, auto feed etc.

Much more swing over the bed. 7" for this, vs 4-1/2" for the
Taig. The riser blocks can increase the swing of the Taig, but at the
cost of rigidity.

It can single-point threads, but the slowest spindle speed is a
bit fast for threading up to a shoulder.

If it has a threading dial (not clear there) it will only work
with one of the two series of threads -- either only for the metric, or
only for the inch threads.

There is no *list* of what threads it cuts, so we don't know
whether any particularly useful ones are left out.

I would like to see a much more detailed list of what it has and
what it will do.

The nearest mini is $200 more. Why, oh why, the short distance between
centres?

About the same as the Taig, FWIW.

All in all, it seems that No.2 will do everything the No.1 will and much
more for a slightly greater sum. Does this make sense?

How will it do for the woodwork? I think that the top speeds
are a bit slow for small diameter woodwork. The Taig can reach
frightening speeds which would be very good for woodwork.

It almost seems that you should consider both -- one for you
with metal, and one for your wife for wood. (And get her dust masks,
too, since hardwood dusts are generally bad things to breathe.

Actually -- both are a bit too small in my opinion for anything
that *I* would be doing these days. If you consider them as simply
first (learning) steps, that could be different.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

DoN. Nichols wrote:

Get the metalworking version, and the accessories to add
woodworking capabilities. The price difference between the two
compared to the cost of the cross-slide alone says this -- *if* you
want the Taig.

Due to some unfortunate circumstances the wood-working part has been
post-poned indefinitely.
I guess that is the question: Do I want the Taig? It seemed like the only
way to start turning something for under $400.

I don't see the three-jaw chuck with the soft jaws which used to
be part of the setup.

I had a look at the Taig web site and their combo's are different from the
Lee Valley. E.g. two out of three did not include the tailstock!

There is no *list* of what threads it cuts, so we don't know
whether any particularly useful ones are left out.

I would like to see a much more detailed list of what it has and
what it will do.

See, this is the sort of thing I would not know to look for...


The nearest mini is $200 more. Why, oh why, the short distance
between centres?

About the same as the Taig, FWIW.

Yes. Initially I rejected the Craftex out of hand because of it but as the
prices came closer I re-considered.

It is just another exercise in looking at various options.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On 2008-12-17, Michael Koblic wrote:
DoN. Nichols wrote:

Get the metalworking version, and the accessories to add
woodworking capabilities. The price difference between the two
compared to the cost of the cross-slide alone says this -- *if* you
want the Taig.

Due to some unfortunate circumstances the wood-working part has been
post-poned indefinitely.

Oh!

I guess that is the question: Do I want the Taig? It seemed like the only
way to start turning something for under $400.

The question is -- do you want to be able to cut threads? If
not, then it could certainly do what you need for small things. (How
big a circle do you need to handle to make your solar powered
hourglasses. :-)

Another thing about the Taig is that the longitudinal finish
will be purely dependent on the smoothness of your turning the crank on
the carriage. There is no power feed -- in either direction.

I don't see the three-jaw chuck with the soft jaws which used to
be part of the setup.

I had a look at the Taig web site and their combo's are different from the
Lee Valley. E.g. two out of three did not include the tailstock!

O.K. It all depends on how much you plan to turn things which
are about four times longer than their diameter. For that (or longer)
you will need the tailstock.

You'll also find it very useful for drilling the initial central
hole before boring it to larger diameters. IIRC, the tailstock chuck
will hold 1/2" drill bits -- but the motor may have a bit of struggle
doing it all in a single pass in steel.

There is no *list* of what threads it cuts, so we don't know
whether any particularly useful ones are left out.

I would like to see a much more detailed list of what it has and
what it will do.

See, this is the sort of thing I would not know to look for...

This is the sort of reason why people suggest that you sign up
for a metalworking class at a nearby school (if one is available) so you
will learn what to expect from the tools. This will also give you
access to larger tools for some of your own projects.

The nearest mini is $200 more. Why, oh why, the short distance
between centres?

About the same as the Taig, FWIW.

Yes. Initially I rejected the Craftex out of hand because of it but as the
prices came closer I re-considered.

It is just another exercise in looking at various options.

Of course, my own preference is for larger old machines, but then
I know how to check them out and how to repair them if needed.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

DoN. Nichols wrote:

The question is -- do you want to be able to cut threads? If
not, then it could certainly do what you need for small things. (How
big a circle do you need to handle to make your solar powered
hourglasses. :-)

I am pretty much looking at it as two distinctly separate jobs:

1) The dial faces. Those will need something big if I want to expand in the
future. The biggest one now is 4.5" so a mini should be able to face it and
edge it. OTOH I have a nice 9" piece sitting in a drawer waiting for
attention. That one clearly is beyond the mini. OTOH (2) the faces do not
need a tailstock - headstock turning facility should be sufficient, which
brings us back to rotary tables etc.

2) The support structure and the gnomons. These are much smaller and a mini
or a Taig should be adequate. The maximum length is not an issue until the
dial diameter gets past 12" - pretty unlikely.

At this point I see no need to cut threads. However, as these things often
work out, I will want to cut one the moment I buy the Taig :-)

O.K. It all depends on how much you plan to turn things which
are about four times longer than their diameter. For that (or longer)
you will need the tailstock.

For the gnomons pretty essential

You'll also find it very useful for drilling the initial central
hole before boring it to larger diameters. IIRC, the tailstock chuck
will hold 1/2" drill bits -- but the motor may have a bit of struggle
doing it all in a single pass in steel.

I thought the Taig only did 1/4".

There is no *list* of what threads it cuts, so we don't know
whether any particularly useful ones are left out.

I would like to see a much more detailed list of what it has and
what it will do.

See, this is the sort of thing I would not know to look for...

This is the sort of reason why people suggest that you sign up
for a metalworking class at a nearby school (if one is available) so
you will learn what to expect from the tools. This will also give you
access to larger tools for some of your own projects.

It is a good suggestion in principle. There may be one in the New Year. Now,
to spend $465 on the course or a Mini-lathe :-)?

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On Dec 19, 9:39*pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
DoN. Nichols wrote:
The question is -- do you want to be able to cut threads? *If
not, then it could certainly do what you need for small things. *(How
big a circle do you need to handle to make your solar powered
hourglasses. :-)

I am pretty much looking at it as two distinctly separate jobs:

1) The dial faces. Those will need something big if I want to expand in the
future. The biggest one now is 4.5" so a mini should be able to face it and
edge it. OTOH I have a nice 9" piece sitting in a drawer waiting for
attention. ....

At this point I see no need to cut threads. However, as these things often
work out, I will want to cut one the moment I buy the Taig :-)
...
O.K. *It all depends on how much you plan to turn things which
are about four times longer than their diameter. *For that (or longer)
you will need the tailstock.

For the gnomons pretty essential ...

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

I believe you're ready for this suggestion now:

A well-worn old industrial lathe just might do everything you need, if
you can find a working one cheap enough. For example:
http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/941489353.html

They aren't worth much if the bed is badly worn or a valuable feature
like threading doesn't work, but you don't seem to need high precision
or custom threads.

A leather belt drive, threaded spindle and single phase motor decrease
it's usefulness for a business but not so much for a home shop.

A problem is finding a cheap one that isn't hopelessly gonzo unless
you buy three $500 factory repair parts. That can be an issue with
South Bend, for instance. Mine has several non-standard and home made
replacement parts, some hacked out by the trade school students who
(ab)used it before me.

I think you've rehearsed your spiel on us enough to recite it in
machinists' terms to the seller, who hopefully understands the lathe's
condition and would know if it would serve your needs.

Good Luck
Jim Wilkins

On 2008-12-20, Michael Koblic wrote:
DoN. Nichols wrote:

The question is -- do you want to be able to cut threads? If
not, then it could certainly do what you need for small things. (How
big a circle do you need to handle to make your solar powered
hourglasses. :-)

I am pretty much looking at it as two distinctly separate jobs:

In which case you probably will eventually want two different
machines -- one set up for each job.

1) The dial faces. Those will need something big if I want to expand in the
future. The biggest one now is 4.5" so a mini should be able to face it and
edge it.

Even the Taig should be able to do that with the riser blocks.

OTOH I have a nice 9" piece sitting in a drawer waiting for
attention. That one clearly is beyond the mini. OTOH (2) the faces do not
need a tailstock - headstock turning facility should be sufficient, which
brings us back to rotary tables etc.

That -- or the Taig with perhaps even *two* riser blocks? Not
very rigid, but probably sufficient for edging the face. I would have
to check whether two blocks stacked up would give you sufficient center
height to turn a 9" face.

2) The support structure and the gnomons. These are much smaller and a mini
or a Taig should be adequate. The maximum length is not an issue until the
dial diameter gets past 12" - pretty unlikely.

O.K. I presume that you would like to make the gnomons tapered?
For that, you do what work is needed on a cylindrical basis (probably
between centers) and then shift to between centers with an offset on the
tailstock so you can produce a nice smooth taper.

At this point I see no need to cut threads. However, as these things often
work out, I will want to cut one the moment I buy the Taig :-)

Hmm ... part of that cylindrical work on the gnomon might be to
turn a shoulder, and then thread up to the shoulder so the gnomon could
screw directly into whatever it mounts to -- as long as the gnomon
should be perpendicular to the mounting point. That saves you from
having to stock screws and work at hiding them in the assembled sundial.

O.K. It all depends on how much you plan to turn things which
are about four times longer than their diameter. For that (or longer)
you will need the tailstock.

For the gnomons pretty essential

Between centers for sure then.

You'll also find it very useful for drilling the initial central
hole before boring it to larger diameters. IIRC, the tailstock chuck
will hold 1/2" drill bits -- but the motor may have a bit of struggle
doing it all in a single pass in steel.

I thought the Taig only did 1/4".

I just went down and verified. *My* (rather old) Taig has a
Jacobs 1/2" capacity chuck which screws onto an external thread on the
tailstock ram. IIRC, it also screws onto an arbor to allow you to use
it powered in the headstock as well.

There is no *list* of what threads it cuts, so we don't know
whether any particularly useful ones are left out.

I would like to see a much more detailed list of what it has and
what it will do.

See, this is the sort of thing I would not know to look for...

This is the sort of reason why people suggest that you sign up
for a metalworking class at a nearby school (if one is available) so
you will learn what to expect from the tools. This will also give you
access to larger tools for some of your own projects.

It is a good suggestion in principle. There may be one in the New Year. Now,
to spend $465 on the course or a Mini-lathe :-)?

That can be a problem, too. The Mini-lathe or the Taig are low
enough power so you can afford to make mistakes without producing
serious catastrophes. A 12" or 13" lathe is a different matter, let
alone larger ones. For *those* the class first would be a *very* good
idea. And you *will* learn things from the class even with the smaller
machines. (Granted, I never took such a class -- but I learned (as an
Electronics Technician) from some good machinists at work, and as a
result was one of the few technicians allowed to use the machine tools
in the building.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I recently bought a new 7x12 Clarke (Sieg) minilathe, because it was
available locally (no shipping) and it was a reasonable price: $380US plus
local sales tax 6%.

The differences you may find by looking at various vendors, is that certain
features vary, and the number of included accessories vary.
Other than these differences, almost all 7x10 to 7x14 models will
essentially be the same except for the length of the bed/between centers
dimension (and paint colors).

The Busy Bee B1979C shows a 2 year warranty. Vendor support may be a
determining factor due to the location of the buyer.

Some models may have all plastic gears. On one model I saw, the internal
headstock gear was steel/iron but the external change gears were plastic.
Some accessory packages include the steady and traveling rests and a
faceplate, or an additional chuck, so prices will vary.

The Taig accessories are fairly expensive, and as accessories go, the user
will generally want or need another, and another.

Accessories for the minilathes are somewhat more commonly available, and
usually more generic.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Michael Koblic" wrote in message
...
The continuing saga of a miser looking for a "wonderlathe":

1)
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...330,50260&ap=1

I have a motor and lots of 1/4" tools of uncertain provenance. Would need
a chuck for the headstock and probably compound slide from this selection:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...330,50260&ap=1

I have heard good things about this. It would take care of small parts
(steel, 3/4" diameter). I am not sure how specialized and therefore
obtainable the parts are.


2) http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture10?NTITEM=B1979C

The apparent cost is over double of the Taig, but it comes with a motor, a
compound, 3-jaw chuck etc. which closes the dollar gap considerably. Lower
speeds, therefore almost three times the diameter can be handled, screw
cutting, auto feed etc.

The nearest mini is $200 more. Why, oh why, the short distance between
centres?

All in all, it seems that No.2 will do everything the No.1 will and much
more for a slightly greater sum. Does this make sense?

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Wild_Bill wrote:
I recently bought a new 7x12 Clarke (Sieg) minilathe, because it was
available locally (no shipping) and it was a reasonable price: $380US
plus local sales tax 6%.

The differences you may find by looking at various vendors, is that
certain features vary, and the number of included accessories vary.
Other than these differences, almost all 7x10 to 7x14 models will
essentially be the same except for the length of the bed/between
centers dimension (and paint colors).

The Busy Bee B1979C shows a 2 year warranty. Vendor support may be a
determining factor due to the location of the buyer.

Some models may have all plastic gears. On one model I saw, the
internal headstock gear was steel/iron but the external change gears
were plastic. Some accessory packages include the steady and
traveling rests and a faceplate, or an additional chuck, so prices
will vary.
The Taig accessories are fairly expensive, and as accessories go, the
user will generally want or need another, and another.

Accessories for the minilathes are somewhat more commonly available,
and usually more generic.


Thanks. That is what I kind of figured. If I was in the market for a mini
lathe and money was no object there are better ones (IMHO) available at just
under double the price of the Craftex in Canada. I did consider importing
one briefly, but the shipping, taxes, "brokerage fees" and sucky Cdn$ as
well as lack of effective after-sales care and warranty make it
unattractive.

I was only looking at the Taig because of the very low base price of $275. I
suspect, however, that one should splash out on a DC motor to get a better
speed control. That and all the facts you mention about the accessories kind
of close the gap on the Craftex.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

I recently bought a new 7x12 Clarke (Sieg) minilathe, because it was
available locally (no shipping) and it was a reasonable price: $383US plus
local sales tax 6%.

The differences you may find by looking at various vendors, is that certain
features may vary slightly, and the number of included accessories vary.
Other than these differences, almost all 7x10 to 7x14 models will
essentially be the same except for the length of the bed/between centers
dimension (and paint colors).

The Busy Bee B1979C shows a 2 year warranty. Vendor support may be a
determining factor due to the location of the buyer.

Some 7x models may have all plastic gears. On one model I saw, the internal
headstock gear was "metal" (possibly die-cast zinc alloy) but the external
change gears were plastic.
Little Machineshop sells steel gears for many/all of the 7x models.

Some accessory packages include the steady and traveling rests and a
faceplate, or an additional chuck, so be aware of those differences.

The Taig accessories are fairly expensive, and as accessories go, the user
will generally want or need another, and another.

Accessories for the minilathes are somewhat more commonly available, and
usually more generic.
Parts and accessories for the 7x models are available from numerous sources,
although the prices vary considerably for certain items.

http://www.mini-lathe.com/
http://www.varmintal.com/alath.htm
http://www.cartertools.com/jose02.html
http://littlemachineshop.com/Products/product_new.php

Something I discovered while looking at minilathe accessories is that a MT3
to 3C adapter and drawtubes are available for using 3C collets with the 7x
models instead of using Morse Taper 3 collets.
These adapters are for use in any machine that has a MT3 spindle with a 3/4"
(.750") thru hole. This includes 7x models, South Bend and the 9x20 series
lathes.
The 3C collets are self-releasing, so they don't need to be driven/tapped
out like the locking MT collets do.
Additionally, the 3C collets allow the material to pass thru the collet,
which MT collets don't. This allows longer lengths of material to be fed
thru the headstock.

There are several suppliers of 3C collets in round, hex and square sizes.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Michael Koblic" wrote in message
...
The continuing saga of a miser looking for a "wonderlathe":

1)
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...330,50260&ap=1

I have a motor and lots of 1/4" tools of uncertain provenance. Would need
a chuck for the headstock and probably compound slide from this selection:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...330,50260&ap=1

I have heard good things about this. It would take care of small parts
(steel, 3/4" diameter). I am not sure how specialized and therefore
obtainable the parts are.


2) http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture10?NTITEM=B1979C

The apparent cost is over double of the Taig, but it comes with a motor, a
compound, 3-jaw chuck etc. which closes the dollar gap considerably. Lower
speeds, therefore almost three times the diameter can be handled, screw
cutting, auto feed etc.

The nearest mini is $200 more. Why, oh why, the short distance between
centres?

All in all, it seems that No.2 will do everything the No.1 will and much
more for a slightly greater sum. Does this make sense?

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 02:01:24 -0500, the infamous "Wild_Bill"
scrawled the following:

I recently bought a new 7x12 Clarke (Sieg) minilathe, because it was
available locally (no shipping) and it was a reasonable price: $383US plus
local sales tax 6%.

That's an excellent price, WB.


The Taig accessories are fairly expensive, and as accessories go, the user
will generally want or need another, and another.

Taig is (over)charging folks for their "famous" name.


Accessories for the minilathes are somewhat more commonly available, and
usually more generic.
Parts and accessories for the 7x models are available from numerous sources,
although the prices vary considerably for certain items.

http://www.mini-lathe.com/

Great site.


http://www.varmintal.com/alath.htm

His is an EXTREMELY interesting work history, isn't it?


http://www.cartertools.com/jose02.html
http://littlemachineshop.com/Products/product_new.php

Something I discovered while looking at minilathe accessories is that a MT3
to 3C adapter and drawtubes are available for using 3C collets with the 7x
models instead of using Morse Taper 3 collets.
These adapters are for use in any machine that has a MT3 spindle with a 3/4"
(.750") thru hole. This includes 7x models, South Bend and the 9x20 series
lathes.
The 3C collets are self-releasing, so they don't need to be driven/tapped
out like the locking MT collets do.
Additionally, the 3C collets allow the material to pass thru the collet,
which MT collets don't. This allows longer lengths of material to be fed
thru the headstock.

There are several suppliers of 3C collets in round, hex and square sizes.

Thanks for an interesting post. I'm still looking for a mini-mill,
then a mini-lathe.

--
It is pretty hard to tell what does bring happiness;
poverty and wealth have both failed.
-- Kin Hubbard

On 2008-12-17, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 02:01:24 -0500, the infamous "Wild_Bill"
scrawled the following:

[ ... ]

The Taig accessories are fairly expensive, and as accessories go, the user
will generally want or need another, and another.

Taig is (over)charging folks for their "famous" name.

If you want to see "overcharging for the famous name", compare
the Taig's prices to the Sherline's prices. They are similar lathes,
and I prefer the Taig to the Sherline, FWIW.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 18 Dec 2008 03:30:21 GMT, the infamous "DoN. Nichols"
scrawled the following:

On 2008-12-17, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 02:01:24 -0500, the infamous "Wild_Bill"
scrawled the following:

[ ... ]

The Taig accessories are fairly expensive, and as accessories go, the user
will generally want or need another, and another.

Taig is (over)charging folks for their "famous" name.

If you want to see "overcharging for the famous name", compare
the Taig's prices to the Sherline's prices. They are similar lathes,
and I prefer the Taig to the Sherline, FWIW.

Yes, Sherline is full of itself, too.

--
It is pretty hard to tell what does bring happiness;
poverty and wealth have both failed.
-- Kin Hubbard

Yeah, the under-$400 sticker price was easier to justify than the
almost-or-over-$500 prices elsewhere, and eliminating shipping charges made
it even easier.

Spending $500 or more for the 7x didn't suit me, since I only paid $600
delivered IIRC, for my 9x20 (bought new also, but that was maybe 7 years
ago). The next machine after that was $700 for a used 12x20 3in1.
So having those 2 prices to compare to, a $500+ mini seemed a bit out of
line.

I guess you'll need to keep your eyes peeled for a deal, although I think
you'd be better off considering any sizes of machines that are affordable,
not just minis.
If you can get a bigger machine, the space needed for a bigger machine will
magically appear.
WTF, you can wash the dishes in the shower, or better yet, use paper (but be
damned sure to recycle).
Then put the microwave oven beside the couch where it belongs, and half of
your kitchen is already free space.

Glad you found something interesting.
BTW, dumb looks are still free.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 02:01:24 -0500, the infamous "Wild_Bill"
scrawled the following:

I recently bought a new 7x12 Clarke (Sieg) minilathe, because it was
available locally (no shipping) and it was a reasonable price: $383US plus
local sales tax 6%.

That's an excellent price, WB.


The Taig accessories are fairly expensive, and as accessories go, the user
will generally want or need another, and another.

Taig is (over)charging folks for their "famous" name.


Accessories for the minilathes are somewhat more commonly available, and
usually more generic.
Parts and accessories for the 7x models are available from numerous
sources,
although the prices vary considerably for certain items.

http://www.mini-lathe.com/

Great site.


http://www.varmintal.com/alath.htm

His is an EXTREMELY interesting work history, isn't it?


http://www.cartertools.com/jose02.html
http://littlemachineshop.com/Products/product_new.php

Something I discovered while looking at minilathe accessories is that a
MT3
to 3C adapter and drawtubes are available for using 3C collets with the 7x
models instead of using Morse Taper 3 collets.
These adapters are for use in any machine that has a MT3 spindle with a
3/4"
(.750") thru hole. This includes 7x models, South Bend and the 9x20 series
lathes.
The 3C collets are self-releasing, so they don't need to be driven/tapped
out like the locking MT collets do.
Additionally, the 3C collets allow the material to pass thru the collet,
which MT collets don't. This allows longer lengths of material to be fed
thru the headstock.

There are several suppliers of 3C collets in round, hex and square sizes.

Thanks for an interesting post. I'm still looking for a mini-mill,
then a mini-lathe.

--
It is pretty hard to tell what does bring happiness;
poverty and wealth have both failed.
-- Kin Hubbard

Wild_Bill wrote:
Something I discovered while looking at minilathe accessories is that
a MT3 to 3C adapter and drawtubes are available for using 3C collets
with the 7x models instead of using Morse Taper 3 collets.
These adapters are for use in any machine that has a MT3 spindle with
a 3/4" (.750") thru hole. This includes 7x models, South Bend and the
9x20 series lathes.
The 3C collets are self-releasing, so they don't need to be
driven/tapped out like the locking MT collets do.
Additionally, the 3C collets allow the material to pass thru the
collet, which MT collets don't. This allows longer lengths of
material to be fed thru the headstock.

OTOH am I correct to assume that I could use my MT3 collet set from my
mini-mill?

Yes, the 3MT collets that fit your mill will also fit the mini lathe MT3
spindles.
The length of the spindles will probably be different, so you will probably
need to make a different drawbar for a mini lathe spindle. Fortunately, the
drawbar is fairly simple to make with all-thread rod, just pick up a piece
of it that matches the thread in your collets, and a couple of nuts.

Instead of just using a washer on the left end of the mini lathe spindle,
you might want to consider a stepped bushing to keep the drawbar (threaded
rod) centered while tightening the nut (the bushing is easily made on the
lathe with just a chuck for workholding).

An example of the bushing can be seen in the lower half of this page
http://www.kwagmire.com/shop/lathe/9...cessories.html

You see now, it gets easier when you start buying more machines.. there are
numerous pieces that will be of use on the next machine!
Like those wrenches and hex/allen wrenches.

I'm considering getting the 3C adapters since the 7x12 spindle is the same
as my 9x20 spindle (well, the length is probably different), even though I
have a set of MT3 collets.
I don't particularly like thumping the drawbar to release MT collets, even
though these aren't ultra-high precision machines, hammer hits are delivered
to the bearings.
The additional bonus is that stock can pass thru the 3C collets, so the
depth of the workpiece in the collet isn't limited, like with the Morse
collets.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Michael Koblic" wrote in message
...
Wild_Bill wrote:
Something I discovered while looking at minilathe accessories is that
a MT3 to 3C adapter and drawtubes are available for using 3C collets
with the 7x models instead of using Morse Taper 3 collets.
These adapters are for use in any machine that has a MT3 spindle with
a 3/4" (.750") thru hole. This includes 7x models, South Bend and the
9x20 series lathes.
The 3C collets are self-releasing, so they don't need to be
driven/tapped out like the locking MT collets do.
Additionally, the 3C collets allow the material to pass thru the
collet, which MT collets don't. This allows longer lengths of
material to be fed thru the headstock.

OTOH am I correct to assume that I could use my MT3 collet set from my
mini-mill?

On 2008-12-17, Michael Koblic wrote:
Wild_Bill wrote:
Something I discovered while looking at minilathe accessories is that
a MT3 to 3C adapter and drawtubes are available for using 3C collets
with the 7x models instead of using Morse Taper 3 collets.
These adapters are for use in any machine that has a MT3 spindle with
a 3/4" (.750") thru hole. This includes 7x models, South Bend and the
9x20 series lathes.
The 3C collets are self-releasing, so they don't need to be
driven/tapped out like the locking MT collets do.
Additionally, the 3C collets allow the material to pass thru the
collet, which MT collets don't. This allows longer lengths of
material to be fed thru the headstock.

OTOH am I correct to assume that I could use my MT3 collet set from my
mini-mill?

Yes -- though you might need to make a drawbar of the right
length for the lathe's spindle. It is likely to be longer than that on
the mill (or at least different).

Check the thread pitch on the drawbar for the mill, and see
whether it is in the lathe's list of threads.

And -- what you *won't* have that the 3C with the adaptor would
give you is the ability to pass long stock through the headstock
spindle, turn a part, part it off, advance the stock, and repeat. The
MT3 collets use a solid drawbar, not a hollow one as the 3Cs (and 5Cs)
use.

The MT3 collets are supplied only in a few sizes -- to fit the
common shanks of end mills. The 3C and 5C collet sets are available in
1/32" steps to handle almost everything you are likely to hold. (Though
1/16" steps are more common, since they are cheaper.)

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Michael
For a look at what the Taig is capable of, at least in the hands of a genius
like John Bentley, go to his site he
http://www.jrbentley.com/

see also the mods he made to a BusyBee lathe...just beautiful!

Peter M



"Michael Koblic" wrote in message
...
The continuing saga of a miser looking for a "wonderlathe":

1)
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...330,50260&ap=1

I have a motor and lots of 1/4" tools of uncertain provenance. Would need
a chuck for the headstock and probably compound slide from this selection:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...330,50260&ap=1

I have heard good things about this. It would take care of small parts
(steel, 3/4" diameter). I am not sure how specialized and therefore
obtainable the parts are.


2) http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture10?NTITEM=B1979C

The apparent cost is over double of the Taig, but it comes with a motor, a
compound, 3-jaw chuck etc. which closes the dollar gap considerably. Lower
speeds, therefore almost three times the diameter can be handled, screw
cutting, auto feed etc.

The nearest mini is $200 more. Why, oh why, the short distance between
centres?

All in all, it seems that No.2 will do everything the No.1 will and much
more for a slightly greater sum. Does this make sense?

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Peter Merriam wrote:
Michael
For a look at what the Taig is capable of, at least in the hands of a
genius like John Bentley, go to his site he
http://www.jrbentley.com/

see also the mods he made to a BusyBee lathe...just beautiful!


I had a look. Wow!
I only wish there was more text in the Craftex section: I did not always
appreciate what he did.
What are the odds you would find a guy with *both* machines I am interested
in? He does not seem to have anything bad to say about either of them.
Thanks.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On 2008-12-17, Peter Merriam wrote:
Michael
For a look at what the Taig is capable of, at least in the hands of a genius
like John Bentley, go to his site he
http://www.jrbentley.com/

In particular, follow the link to Nick Carter's page. He has a
*lot* of information specific to the Taig. (It is also called the
Peatol in the UK, and I got mine from a hamfest with no name on it quite
a few years ago.

In particular, he has a link to a site offering a thread
turning attachment for the Taig. (He used to post here regularly,
FWIW.)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Dec 16, 6:37*pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
The continuing saga of a miser looking for a "wonderlathe":

1)http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...330,50260&ap=1

I have a motor and lots of 1/4" tools of uncertain provenance. Would need a
chuck for the headstock and probably compound slide from this selection:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...330,50260&ap=1

I have heard good things about this. It would take care of small parts
(steel, 3/4" diameter). I am not sure how specialized and therefore
obtainable the parts are.

2)http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture10?NTITEM=B1979C

The apparent cost is over double of the Taig, but it comes with a motor, a
compound, 3-jaw chuck etc. which closes the dollar gap considerably. Lower
speeds, therefore almost three times the diameter can be handled, screw
cutting, auto feed etc.

The nearest mini is $200 more. Why, oh why, the short distance between
centres?

All in all, it seems that No.2 will do everything the No.1 will and much
more for a slightly greater sum. Does this make sense?

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Actually I would buy the B2227L from BusyBee, I know its morethan you
want to spend, but would probably last you a lot longer. For a small
lathe its very beefy. Much more so than the minilathe.

http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture10?NTITEM=B2227L

Here's a thread about it on cnczone.com

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29399

I started on a mini-lathe, and its fine, but eventually wound up
buying a 12 x 36 lathe for the garage. I might still buy one of these
for my basement workshop, even though I don't need another lathe.

On Tue, 16 Dec 2008 17:37:26 -0800, Michael Koblic wrote:

The continuing saga of a miser looking for a "wonderlathe":


or on Victoria's Craig's List is this:

http://victoria.en.craigslist.ca/tls/907663955.html

NOT for a miser, but it will last forever! and still sell on your passing
to enrich your estate!

Mike in Burns Lake