pyotr filipivich wrote in
:

I skipped the meeting, but the Memos showed that Eregon
Eregon@Saphira.ørg wrote on 28 Nov 2008 03:48:09 GMT in
rec.crafts.metalworking :
pyotr filipivich wrote in
m:

I've thought about removing the front sight, but it looks to be a
solid & integral part of the front end. Magic Marker to 'blacken' the
ring, so it doesn't reflect as well?


Try using a matte black paint on the top and rear surfaces of the blade.

This also helps with any set of "iron" sights since it provides better
contrast than blued/parkerized finishes.

Old-time target shooters used to use a sooty-flamed lamp/candle to put a
layer of "lamp black" on their sights for this very reason. grin

Thought something like that might have helped. And there I was,
the one time I didn't have a sharpy on me...

pyotr

Sharpies are a semi-gloss.

You want a matte (non-reflective) coat.

Chalkboard paint works well.

Soot from any source is an excellent choice since it can easily be wiped
off after shooting and re-applied as needed without damaging the finish.


--
I used to be an anarchist but had to give it up: _far_ too many rules.

"Eregon" Eregon@Saphira.ørg wrote in message
...
pyotr filipivich wrote in
:

I skipped the meeting, but the Memos showed that Eregon
Eregon@Saphira.ørg wrote on 28 Nov 2008 03:48:09 GMT in
rec.crafts.metalworking :
pyotr filipivich wrote in
:

I've thought about removing the front sight, but it looks to be a
solid & integral part of the front end. Magic Marker to 'blacken' the
ring, so it doesn't reflect as well?


Try using a matte black paint on the top and rear surfaces of the blade.

This also helps with any set of "iron" sights since it provides better
contrast than blued/parkerized finishes.

Old-time target shooters used to use a sooty-flamed lamp/candle to put a
layer of "lamp black" on their sights for this very reason. grin

Thought something like that might have helped. And there I was,
the one time I didn't have a sharpy on me...

pyotr

Sharpies are a semi-gloss.

You want a matte (non-reflective) coat.

Chalkboard paint works well.

Soot from any source is an excellent choice since it can easily be wiped
off after shooting and re-applied as needed without damaging the finish.

I have a couple of camphor sticks in the custom-made kit for my old
Hi-Standard Supermatic. They produce great soot for sights. I wonder if
Brownell's still sells them?

--
Ed Huntress

I skipped the meeting, but the Memos showed that Eregon
Eregon@Saphira.ørg wrote on 28 Nov 2008 19:11:06 GMT in
rec.crafts.metalworking :
pyotr filipivich wrote in
:

I skipped the meeting, but the Memos showed that Eregon
Eregon@Saphira.ørg wrote on 28 Nov 2008 03:48:09 GMT in
rec.crafts.metalworking :
pyotr filipivich wrote in
:

I've thought about removing the front sight, but it looks to be a
solid & integral part of the front end. Magic Marker to 'blacken' the
ring, so it doesn't reflect as well?


Try using a matte black paint on the top and rear surfaces of the blade.

This also helps with any set of "iron" sights since it provides better
contrast than blued/parkerized finishes.

Old-time target shooters used to use a sooty-flamed lamp/candle to put a
layer of "lamp black" on their sights for this very reason. grin

Thought something like that might have helped. And there I was,
the one time I didn't have a sharpy on me...

pyotr

Sharpies are a semi-gloss.

Semi-gloss beats high gloss. "le shrug"

You want a matte (non-reflective) coat.
Chalkboard paint works well.

How about chalk? Have to rummage around.

Soot from any source is an excellent choice since it can easily be wiped
off after shooting and re-applied as needed without damaging the finish.

But not something you want to try to apply while laying prone in a
hayfield.


tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

On Fri, 28 Nov 2008 12:10:48 -0800, pyotr filipivich
wrote:


Soot from any source is an excellent choice since it can easily be wiped
off after shooting and re-applied as needed without damaging the finish.

But not something you want to try to apply while laying prone in a
hayfield.

A standard Bic type disposable lighter (you as a survivalist do carry
one, right?) will soot up sights pretty well. Simply put the sight into
the orange part of the flame, at the tip of the flame front. It will
soot up nicely, though much slower than the old carbide lamp and not as
well.

Gunner

"They couldn't hit an elephant at this dist..."
Maj. Gen. John Sedgewick, killed by a sniper in 1864 at the battle of Spotsylvania

I skipped the meeting, but the Memos showed that Gunner Asch
wrote on Fri, 28 Nov 2008 13:36:01 -0800
in rec.crafts.metalworking :
On Fri, 28 Nov 2008 12:10:48 -0800, pyotr filipivich
wrote:


Soot from any source is an excellent choice since it can easily be wiped
off after shooting and re-applied as needed without damaging the finish.

But not something you want to try to apply while laying prone in a
hayfield.

A standard Bic type disposable lighter (you as a survivalist do carry
one, right?)

Strike anywhere matches. But I'm revising my stash, what with
where I live and now travel.

will soot up sights pretty well. Simply put the sight into
the orange part of the flame, at the tip of the flame front. It will
soot up nicely, though much slower than the old carbide lamp and not as
well.

Gunner

"They couldn't hit an elephant at this dist..."
Maj. Gen. John Sedgewick, killed by a sniper in 1864 at the battle of Spotsylvania
--
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!