I found a source for new free corrugated 22 ga bare steel panels 3' wide.
I'm going to use them for a shade. The guy said they were 602 or something
like that, meaning that the coating on them deteriorates quickly and
intentionally so that rust can form on the surface giving it the old barn
look. Is there any spray I can put on there to hasten the process? I can
get all I want and in lengths up to 16', and for a tip, the fork lift
operator loads them for me.

Steve

--
-Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers.-

On Wed, 5 Nov 2008 21:35:46 -0800, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas
wrote:

like that, meaning that the coating on them deteriorates quickly and
intentionally so that rust can form on the surface giving it the old barn
look. Is there any spray I can put on there to hasten the process?

I don't know about the coating, but I do know that plain salt will
accelerate rusting quite a bit.
--
RoRo

"SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas writes:

I found a source for new free corrugated 22 ga bare steel panels 3' wide.
I'm going to use them for a shade. The guy said they were 602 or something
like that, meaning that the coating on them deteriorates quickly and
intentionally so that rust can form on the surface giving it the old barn
look. Is there any spray I can put on there to hasten the process? I can
get all I want and in lengths up to 16', and for a tip, the fork lift
operator loads them for me.

Craft stores (Michaels, etc.) sell patination chemicals. Typically
people put on a sealer, then base coat of metal paint, and then apply
the patina chemical.

One of the chemicals explicitly says "rust"

You can skip the first two steps. :-)
But if you want to to a large area, it might be too expensive. :-)

On Wed, 5 Nov 2008 21:35:46 -0800, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas
wrote:

I found a source for new free corrugated 22 ga bare steel panels 3' wide.
I'm going to use them for a shade. The guy said they were 602 or something
like that, meaning that the coating on them deteriorates quickly and
intentionally so that rust can form on the surface giving it the old barn
look. Is there any spray I can put on there to hasten the process? I can
get all I want and in lengths up to 16', and for a tip, the fork lift
operator loads them for me.

Steve

WATER?

Thank You,
Randy

Remove 333 from email address to reply.

"Randy" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 5 Nov 2008 21:35:46 -0800, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas
wrote:

I found a source for new free corrugated 22 ga bare steel panels 3' wide.
I'm going to use them for a shade. The guy said they were 602 or
something
like that, meaning that the coating on them deteriorates quickly and
intentionally so that rust can form on the surface giving it the old barn
look. Is there any spray I can put on there to hasten the process? I can
get all I want and in lengths up to 16', and for a tip, the fork lift
operator loads them for me.

Steve

WATER?
Add salt to that!

On 2008-11-06, RJ wrote:

WATER?
Add salt to that!


Ammonium nitrate is the best. (yes, I tried)
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 07:57:19 -0600, "RJ" wrote:


"Randy" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 5 Nov 2008 21:35:46 -0800, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas
wrote:

I found a source for new free corrugated 22 ga bare steel panels 3' wide.
I'm going to use them for a shade. The guy said they were 602 or
something
like that, meaning that the coating on them deteriorates quickly and
intentionally so that rust can form on the surface giving it the old barn
look. Is there any spray I can put on there to hasten the process? I can
get all I want and in lengths up to 16', and for a tip, the fork lift
operator loads them for me.

Steve

WATER?
Add salt to that!

Kind of humorous; all the country boys slapping Koolkote on the rusty
roof to make it all new and silvery looking while the city boys are
spraying salt water on the roof to make it look all old and rusty :-)

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 07:57:19 -0600, "RJ" wrote:


"Randy" wrote in message
. ..
On Wed, 5 Nov 2008 21:35:46 -0800, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas
wrote:

I found a source for new free corrugated 22 ga bare steel panels 3'
wide.
I'm going to use them for a shade. The guy said they were 602 or
something
like that, meaning that the coating on them deteriorates quickly and
intentionally so that rust can form on the surface giving it the old
barn
look. Is there any spray I can put on there to hasten the process? I
can
get all I want and in lengths up to 16', and for a tip, the fork lift
operator loads them for me.

Steve

WATER?
Add salt to that!

Kind of humorous; all the country boys slapping Koolkote on the rusty
roof to make it all new and silvery looking while the city boys are
spraying salt water on the roof to make it look all old and rusty :-)

It sounds he's talking about A-606, which is basically the same thing as
Cor-Ten, except that A-606 is the designation for thin sheet.

This is a self-protecting "weathering" steel. If you're lucky, and if there
isn't too much pollution in your air, it rusts into a nice, even, rich brown
color in a few years, something like a browned rifle barrel. If you're not
lucky, it looks like a rust-streaked wreck for around a decade. g

The Picasso sculpture in Chicago's Daley Plaza, made of Cor-Ten, looked like
holy hell for years and years. Finally, it started to look decent. I think
the problem has been attributed to air pollution.

If it were me, I'd check with someone who knows what he's talking about
before trying to accelerate the rusting. My guess is that it will fail. They
didn't have much luck in the early days trying to accelerate rusting of
Cor-Ten, but, as with nearly everything else, I haven't kept up. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

Is this the same steel they use to build bridge beams out of? I was
somewhere that had the bridge beams rusted purposely so they don't
have to paint them. It was either Duluth, or San Diego. How's that for
getting old? Can't remember where.

On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 10:03:38 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 07:57:19 -0600, "RJ" wrote:


"Randy" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 5 Nov 2008 21:35:46 -0800, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas
wrote:

I found a source for new free corrugated 22 ga bare steel panels 3'
wide.
I'm going to use them for a shade. The guy said they were 602 or
something
like that, meaning that the coating on them deteriorates quickly and
intentionally so that rust can form on the surface giving it the old
barn
look. Is there any spray I can put on there to hasten the process? I
can
get all I want and in lengths up to 16', and for a tip, the fork lift
operator loads them for me.

Steve

WATER?
Add salt to that!

Kind of humorous; all the country boys slapping Koolkote on the rusty
roof to make it all new and silvery looking while the city boys are
spraying salt water on the roof to make it look all old and rusty :-)

It sounds he's talking about A-606, which is basically the same thing as
Cor-Ten, except that A-606 is the designation for thin sheet.

This is a self-protecting "weathering" steel. If you're lucky, and if there
isn't too much pollution in your air, it rusts into a nice, even, rich brown
color in a few years, something like a browned rifle barrel. If you're not
lucky, it looks like a rust-streaked wreck for around a decade. g

The Picasso sculpture in Chicago's Daley Plaza, made of Cor-Ten, looked like
holy hell for years and years. Finally, it started to look decent. I think
the problem has been attributed to air pollution.

If it were me, I'd check with someone who knows what he's talking about
before trying to accelerate the rusting. My guess is that it will fail. They
didn't have much luck in the early days trying to accelerate rusting of
Cor-Ten, but, as with nearly everything else, I haven't kept up. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

"Dan " Dan@ wrote in message ...
Is this the same steel they use to build bridge beams out of? I was
somewhere that had the bridge beams rusted purposely so they don't
have to paint them. It was either Duluth, or San Diego. How's that for
getting old? Can't remember where.

Yeah, that's the kind of application that Cor-Ten was made for. It came out
in the late '70s, IIRC, when I was covering materials for _American
Machinist_, and it was being promoted for all sorts of structural and
decorative uses. Here in NJ they used it for guard rails on the lower end of
the Garden State Parkway. Like most applications, it looked like hell for a
few years and then it turned a nice, rich brown. It looks pretty good, and
it saves a lot of maintenance cost -- which is the whole point of it.

Because the rust has to form a dense and nearly impermeable structure, it
matters how the rust is formed, and I think it matters how fast it's formed.
That's why I'm skeptical that you can speed up the process. But maybe
they've come up with a chemical treatment for it since those days. I haven't
followed it.

--
Ed Huntress


On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 10:03:38 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 07:57:19 -0600, "RJ" wrote:


"Randy" wrote in message
m...
On Wed, 5 Nov 2008 21:35:46 -0800, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas
wrote:

I found a source for new free corrugated 22 ga bare steel panels 3'
wide.
I'm going to use them for a shade. The guy said they were 602 or
something
like that, meaning that the coating on them deteriorates quickly and
intentionally so that rust can form on the surface giving it the old
barn
look. Is there any spray I can put on there to hasten the process? I
can
get all I want and in lengths up to 16', and for a tip, the fork lift
operator loads them for me.

Steve

WATER?
Add salt to that!

Kind of humorous; all the country boys slapping Koolkote on the rusty
roof to make it all new and silvery looking while the city boys are
spraying salt water on the roof to make it look all old and rusty :-)

It sounds he's talking about A-606, which is basically the same thing as
Cor-Ten, except that A-606 is the designation for thin sheet.

This is a self-protecting "weathering" steel. If you're lucky, and if
there
isn't too much pollution in your air, it rusts into a nice, even, rich
brown
color in a few years, something like a browned rifle barrel. If you're not
lucky, it looks like a rust-streaked wreck for around a decade. g

The Picasso sculpture in Chicago's Daley Plaza, made of Cor-Ten, looked
like
holy hell for years and years. Finally, it started to look decent. I think
the problem has been attributed to air pollution.

If it were me, I'd check with someone who knows what he's talking about
before trying to accelerate the rusting. My guess is that it will fail.
They
didn't have much luck in the early days trying to accelerate rusting of
Cor-Ten, but, as with nearly everything else, I haven't kept up. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

On Nov 6, 12:35*am, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote:
I found a source for new free corrugated 22 ga bare steel panels 3' wide.
I'm going to use them for a shade. *The guy said they were 602 or something
like that, meaning that the coating on them deteriorates quickly and
intentionally so that rust can form on the surface giving it the old barn
look. *Is there any spray I can put on there to hasten the process? *I can
get all I want and in lengths up to 16', and for a tip, the fork lift
operator loads them for me.

Steve

I'd spray them with soap to remove any oil, rinse and leave them out
to rust by themselves. Wet oak leaves discolor steel quickly. Once
they have a rust film, spray on some diluted rust inhibitor such as
LPS-3 to stop pitting.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
On Nov 6, 12:35 am, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote:
I found a source for new free corrugated 22 ga bare steel panels 3' wide.
I'm going to use them for a shade. The guy said they were 602 or something
like that, meaning that the coating on them deteriorates quickly and
intentionally so that rust can form on the surface giving it the old barn
look. Is there any spray I can put on there to hasten the process? I can
get all I want and in lengths up to 16', and for a tip, the fork lift
operator loads them for me.

Steve

I'd spray them with soap to remove any oil, rinse and leave them out
to rust by themselves. Wet oak leaves discolor steel quickly. Once
they have a rust film, spray on some diluted rust inhibitor such as
LPS-3 to stop pitting.

A-606 doesn't pit, Jim -- if A-606 is indeed what Steve has. It's a
high-strength low-alloy (HSLA) steel that's formulated to produce a
protective coating of rust that, after it penetrates to a certain depth,
stops rusting. The rust forms a dense, nearly impenetrable layer.

--
Ed Huntress

On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 11:12:09 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Dan " Dan@ wrote in message ...
Is this the same steel they use to build bridge beams out of? I was
somewhere that had the bridge beams rusted purposely so they don't
have to paint them. It was either Duluth, or San Diego. How's that for
getting old? Can't remember where.

Yeah, that's the kind of application that Cor-Ten was made for. It came out
in the late '70s, IIRC, when I was covering materials for _American
Machinist_, and it was being promoted for all sorts of structural and
decorative uses.

The Cor-Ten tradename covers a number of weathering steels. The first,
Cor-Ten A (ASTM A242), dates back to the 50's. By the time I was
taking my structural courses in the early 70's Cor-Ten B (ASTM A588)
had obsoleted the earlier material. It was pretty common by that time,
if you knew what to look for.

There's at least one more specification for sheet -- the stuff above
refers to structural shapes.

--
Ned Simmons

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Dan " Dan@ wrote in message ...
Is this the same steel they use to build bridge beams out of? I was
somewhere that had the bridge beams rusted purposely so they don't
have to paint them. It was either Duluth, or San Diego. How's that for
getting old? Can't remember where.

Yeah, that's the kind of application that Cor-Ten was made for.

We used Cor-Ten for the traffic signal mast arm structures in our town's
downtown area, but we did not leave them bare. Instead, we had them painted
them a color that was near to their final natural hue. The idea was that they
would never be painted again, but we would not have to concern ourselves about
pitting in any of the inevitable scratches inflicted during installation, and we
would not have to wait for them to age to a pleasing patina.

25+ years later, they are still doing fine.

Vaughn

SteveB wrote:
I found a source for new free corrugated 22 ga bare steel panels 3' wide.
I'm going to use them for a shade. The guy said they were 602 or something
like that, meaning that the coating on them deteriorates quickly and
intentionally so that rust can form on the surface giving it the old barn
look. Is there any spray I can put on there to hasten the process? I can
get all I want and in lengths up to 16', and for a tip, the fork lift
operator loads them for me.

Steve


The obvious answer is to set them on the ground outside wherever you and
your buddies drink beer, and keep the fridge stocked.

"Ed Huntress" wrote:

A-606 doesn't pit, Jim -- if A-606 is indeed what Steve has. It's a
high-strength low-alloy (HSLA) steel that's formulated to produce a
protective coating of rust that, after it penetrates to a certain depth,
stops rusting. The rust forms a dense, nearly impenetrable layer.


How does that work?

As far as browning, I just re-did a barrel we clocked to get the sights pointing straight
(damn thing shot way left and you know I can't tolerate that), I used some Birchwood Casey
Plumb Brown.

As far as the brown goes, I thought it was combination of the rust + oil that kept it from
rustiong further.

Obviously something different goes on with Core ten.

Wes

--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

"Wes" wrote in message
...
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

A-606 doesn't pit, Jim -- if A-606 is indeed what Steve has. It's a
high-strength low-alloy (HSLA) steel that's formulated to produce a
protective coating of rust that, after it penetrates to a certain depth,
stops rusting. The rust forms a dense, nearly impenetrable layer.


How does that work?

I forget. I haven't had to know for 30 years, so I just let it run out my
ears. g


As far as browning, I just re-did a barrel we clocked to get the sights
pointing straight
(damn thing shot way left and you know I can't tolerate that), I used some
Birchwood Casey
Plumb Brown.

I love that stuff. I got really great results on an old single-barrel
shotgun. It looked like a real antique when I was done.


As far as the brown goes, I thought it was combination of the rust + oil
that kept it from
rustiong further.

Yeah. Different stuff. Cor-Ten does it with the alloy -- somehow.


Obviously something different goes on with Core ten.

Wes

Here's some good stuff. First, Ted Mooney is a very knowledgeable and
no-b.s. guy on materials and finishing:

http://www.finishing.com/255/32.shtml

You'll notice that using muriatic acid to speed up the process is mentioned
here.

Second, here's US Steel on the subject of using weathering steel for roofs:

http://www.ussconstruction.com/metal/metal/corten.shtml

--
Ed Huntress

Second

Did a large steel sign last year. A36 with raised laser cut stainless
lettering. They wanted a rusty finish. Knocked off the worst of the dirt
and gave it three or four "coats" of the following with a cheap spritzer
bottle----- a quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide with a quarter cup
of hydrochloric pool acid mixed in. Pretty amazing how fast it works.

On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 11:12:09 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Dan " Dan@ wrote in message ...
Is this the same steel they use to build bridge beams out of? I was
somewhere that had the bridge beams rusted purposely so they don't
have to paint them. It was either Duluth, or San Diego. How's that for
getting old? Can't remember where.

Yeah, that's the kind of application that Cor-Ten was made for. It came out
in the late '70s, IIRC, when I was covering materials for _American
Machinist_, and it was being promoted for all sorts of structural and
decorative uses.
The company I worked for, used it for pier nosings on a bridge in
Jamaica around 1967.

Here in NJ they used it for guard rails on the lower end of
the Garden State Parkway. Like most applications, it looked like hell for a
few years and then it turned a nice, rich brown. It looks pretty good, and
it saves a lot of maintenance cost -- which is the whole point of it.

Because the rust has to form a dense and nearly impermeable structure, it
matters how the rust is formed, and I think it matters how fast it's formed.
That's why I'm skeptical that you can speed up the process. But maybe
they've come up with a chemical treatment for it since those days. I haven't
followed it.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 11:12:09 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Dan " Dan@ wrote in message ...
Is this the same steel they use to build bridge beams out of? I was
somewhere that had the bridge beams rusted purposely so they don't
have to paint them. It was either Duluth, or San Diego. How's that for
getting old? Can't remember where.

Yeah, that's the kind of application that Cor-Ten was made for. It came
out
in the late '70s, IIRC, when I was covering materials for _American
Machinist_, and it was being promoted for all sorts of structural and
decorative uses.
The company I worked for, used it for pier nosings on a bridge in
Jamaica around 1967.

Here in NJ they used it for guard rails on the lower end of
the Garden State Parkway. Like most applications, it looked like hell for
a
few years and then it turned a nice, rich brown. It looks pretty good, and
it saves a lot of maintenance cost -- which is the whole point of it.

Because the rust has to form a dense and nearly impermeable structure, it
matters how the rust is formed, and I think it matters how fast it's
formed.
That's why I'm skeptical that you can speed up the process. But maybe
they've come up with a chemical treatment for it since those days. I
haven't
followed it.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Yeah, I guess it was around a lot earlier, from what a couple of people have
said. I probably was just on the receiving end of a big promotional push. US
Steel was pouring on the PR for a few years, and they were sending us
everywhere, from the steel mills of northern Indiana to the coal mines of
southern Indiana. g

--
Ed Huntress

On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 10:03:38 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 07:57:19 -0600, "RJ" wrote:


"Randy" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 5 Nov 2008 21:35:46 -0800, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas
wrote:

I found a source for new free corrugated 22 ga bare steel panels 3'
wide.
I'm going to use them for a shade. The guy said they were 602 or
something
like that, meaning that the coating on them deteriorates quickly and
intentionally so that rust can form on the surface giving it the old
barn
look. Is there any spray I can put on there to hasten the process? I
can
get all I want and in lengths up to 16', and for a tip, the fork lift
operator loads them for me.

Steve

WATER?
Add salt to that!

Kind of humorous; all the country boys slapping Koolkote on the rusty
roof to make it all new and silvery looking while the city boys are
spraying salt water on the roof to make it look all old and rusty :-)

It sounds he's talking about A-606, which is basically the same thing as
Cor-Ten, except that A-606 is the designation for thin sheet.

This is a self-protecting "weathering" steel. If you're lucky, and if there
isn't too much pollution in your air, it rusts into a nice, even, rich brown
color in a few years, something like a browned rifle barrel. If you're not
lucky, it looks like a rust-streaked wreck for around a decade. g

The Picasso sculpture in Chicago's Daley Plaza, made of Cor-Ten, looked like
holy hell for years and years. Finally, it started to look decent. I think
the problem has been attributed to air pollution.

If it were me, I'd check with someone who knows what he's talking about
before trying to accelerate the rusting. My guess is that it will fail. They
didn't have much luck in the early days trying to accelerate rusting of
Cor-Ten, but, as with nearly everything else, I haven't kept up. d8-)


There were a few steel hull boats built out of the stuff.... not too
successfully as boats usually are painted. Bruce Roberts, a major
designer of steel boats, gets quite abusive about the stuff when
people ask whether they should use it instead of the plate he
specifies :-)

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 10:03:38 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 07:57:19 -0600, "RJ" wrote:


"Randy" wrote in message
m...
On Wed, 5 Nov 2008 21:35:46 -0800, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas
wrote:

I found a source for new free corrugated 22 ga bare steel panels 3'
wide.
I'm going to use them for a shade. The guy said they were 602 or
something
like that, meaning that the coating on them deteriorates quickly and
intentionally so that rust can form on the surface giving it the old
barn
look. Is there any spray I can put on there to hasten the process? I
can
get all I want and in lengths up to 16', and for a tip, the fork lift
operator loads them for me.

Steve

WATER?
Add salt to that!

Kind of humorous; all the country boys slapping Koolkote on the rusty
roof to make it all new and silvery looking while the city boys are
spraying salt water on the roof to make it look all old and rusty :-)

It sounds he's talking about A-606, which is basically the same thing as
Cor-Ten, except that A-606 is the designation for thin sheet.

This is a self-protecting "weathering" steel. If you're lucky, and if
there
isn't too much pollution in your air, it rusts into a nice, even, rich
brown
color in a few years, something like a browned rifle barrel. If you're not
lucky, it looks like a rust-streaked wreck for around a decade. g

The Picasso sculpture in Chicago's Daley Plaza, made of Cor-Ten, looked
like
holy hell for years and years. Finally, it started to look decent. I think
the problem has been attributed to air pollution.

If it were me, I'd check with someone who knows what he's talking about
before trying to accelerate the rusting. My guess is that it will fail.
They
didn't have much luck in the early days trying to accelerate rusting of
Cor-Ten, but, as with nearly everything else, I haven't kept up. d8-)


There were a few steel hull boats built out of the stuff.... not too
successfully as boats usually are painted. Bruce Roberts, a major
designer of steel boats, gets quite abusive about the stuff when
people ask whether they should use it instead of the plate he
specifies :-)

Bruce-in-Bangkok

Where is Roberts these days? Is he in Asia?

BTW, do you have any idea where Jim Brown (Searunner) is?

--
Ed Huntress

"SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote in message
...
I found a source for new free corrugated 22 ga bare steel panels 3' wide.
I'm going to use them for a shade. The guy said they were 602 or something
like that, meaning that the coating on them deteriorates quickly and
intentionally so that rust can form on the surface giving it the old barn
look. Is there any spray I can put on there to hasten the process? I can
get all I want and in lengths up to 16', and for a tip, the fork lift
operator loads them for me.

This is what works for me on a small scale:
1) Degrease really thoroughly. I use two-stage process with acetone followed
up by ZEP industrial strength cleaner from Home depot
2) Spray with lemon juice. I suspect hydrochloric or any other acid would
work. The rust appears in front of your eyes.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 22:19:46 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 10:03:38 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 07:57:19 -0600, "RJ" wrote:


"Randy" wrote in message
om...
On Wed, 5 Nov 2008 21:35:46 -0800, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas
wrote:

I found a source for new free corrugated 22 ga bare steel panels 3'
wide.
I'm going to use them for a shade. The guy said they were 602 or
something
like that, meaning that the coating on them deteriorates quickly and
intentionally so that rust can form on the surface giving it the old
barn
look. Is there any spray I can put on there to hasten the process? I
can
get all I want and in lengths up to 16', and for a tip, the fork lift
operator loads them for me.

Steve

WATER?
Add salt to that!

Kind of humorous; all the country boys slapping Koolkote on the rusty
roof to make it all new and silvery looking while the city boys are
spraying salt water on the roof to make it look all old and rusty :-)

It sounds he's talking about A-606, which is basically the same thing as
Cor-Ten, except that A-606 is the designation for thin sheet.

This is a self-protecting "weathering" steel. If you're lucky, and if
there
isn't too much pollution in your air, it rusts into a nice, even, rich
brown
color in a few years, something like a browned rifle barrel. If you're not
lucky, it looks like a rust-streaked wreck for around a decade. g

The Picasso sculpture in Chicago's Daley Plaza, made of Cor-Ten, looked
like
holy hell for years and years. Finally, it started to look decent. I think
the problem has been attributed to air pollution.

If it were me, I'd check with someone who knows what he's talking about
before trying to accelerate the rusting. My guess is that it will fail.
They
didn't have much luck in the early days trying to accelerate rusting of
Cor-Ten, but, as with nearly everything else, I haven't kept up. d8-)


There were a few steel hull boats built out of the stuff.... not too
successfully as boats usually are painted. Bruce Roberts, a major
designer of steel boats, gets quite abusive about the stuff when
people ask whether they should use it instead of the plate he
specifies :-)

Bruce-in-Bangkok

Where is Roberts these days? Is he in Asia?

BTW, do you have any idea where Jim Brown (Searunner) is?

Don;t know. I used to think that roberts was living in Australia but a
year of so ago red a two part article he wrote about cruising the
French canals (in a steel boat, of course). I suspect that he probably
works by modem these days.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

On Nov 6, 5:08*pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
...
Second, here's US Steel on the subject of using weathering steel for roofs:
http://www.ussconstruction.com/metal/metal/corten.shtml
Ed Huntress

They do say it can rust through though not by pitting. However this
lot may be surplus due to poor chemistry.

I have galvanized roofing from Home Depot on the flat wood shed roof
where it collects rust-promoting oak leaves and branches over the
winter. A few of the sheets had started to corrode from trapped water
when I bought them (at a discount) and a couple of those spots lost
all the zinc and began to rust after exposure. LPS-3 applied yearly
has almost stopped them from growing although one tiny leak did
develop.

It's a serious nuisance to spray a large surface I can't walk on. Most
of the wood shed roof panels are weighted down rather than screwed so
I can remove them for maintenance or replacement when a large fallen
branch dents them. I can reshape a crumpled panel fairly well with a
rubber hammer and pipe anvil but it needs to overlap by several
corrugations afterwards to be watertight.

I roofed half of my storage shed with the galvanized steel, angled 45
degrees which sheds snow once the weather warms. The northern side is
clear SunTuf polycarbonate, over PalRuf PVC which falling acorns soon
punctured. To allow rapid repair I made two of the six panels on each
side removable hatches and put a strip of PT decking along the lower
edge to support a ladder.

My grandparents on a hill farm in Alabama had tin roofs on the house
and outbuildings and being the lightweight kid I had the job of fixing
them when we visited. They didn't have road salt or oak leaves and the
metal had only a light coat of rust, mostly the wind caused damage
there. I'm sure it was higher quality roofing than the 29 Gauge that
HD and Lowes sells.

Another discussion on accelerated rusting;
http://greenisles.com/objectio.htm

Jim Wilkins

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
On Nov 6, 5:08 pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
...
Second, here's US Steel on the subject of using weathering steel for
roofs:
http://www.ussconstruction.com/metal/metal/corten.shtml
Ed Huntress

They do say it can rust through though not by pitting. However this
lot may be surplus due to poor chemistry.

snip

Wow, that's a lot of experience you have with sheet roofing, Jim. I wouldn't
have thought that acorns can do real damage, even to PVC.

Anyway, galvanized roofing was common where I was born, where many of the
post-WWII houses -- no kidding -- were converted chicken coops. There were
no housing developments around there then, and the demand for housing after
the war was such that people were making houses out of anything they could
get -- storage buildings, trailers, what have you. There were a gazillion
chicken coops around and a lot of the chickens were evicted. g The new
construction, though, was mostly concrete block, because lumber was in short
supply.

I don't know how thick the roofing was but it sure was a lot thicker than 29
gauge. It seemed to be pretty tough. A lot of it actually was tern plate;
lead-coated, rather than zinc.

--
Ed Huntress

On Nov 7, 9:31*am, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
... I wouldn't
have thought that acorns can do real damage, even to PVC....
Ed Huntress

The colored Palruf is much tougher than the clear. They are 80' -
100' trees with few lower branches.